Where to plant strawberries. How to plant strawberries - the best planting methods

garden strawberry- A variety of strawberries. She has larger leaves and berries, rich in vitamins and trace elements. The culture propagates by seeds and rosettes. The plant takes root in any soil, but the size of the fruit depends on the quality of the soil and the amount of nutrients. You can plant strawberries in the middle or late spring, as well as in autumn. In order for the culture to quickly take root and not die in the winter, you need to follow a few rules.

planting material

A simple way to propagate domesticated strawberries is mustache seedlings. In summer, shoots form at the plant. Rosettes are sprinkled with a substrate and watered regularly so that they take root. Closer to autumn, the workpiece is separated from the mother bush with sharp scissors or a knife. Seedlings are dug up and inspected, healthy specimens are selected. Viable blanks have white and elastic roots, a well-developed core and at least 3-4 leaves. Deformed and sluggish sockets are thrown away; they will not survive the winter. Roots strong seedlings shorten, leaving 6–7 cm. The shoots are soaked in water or solutions that stimulate growth before planting.

If the strawberry does not let a mustache, you can propagate it by dividing the bush. Choose the largest and densest varieties and dig. The root system is carefully cleaned of an earthen clod and sharp knife cut into 2-3 pieces. Each blank must have a core and full leaves, at least 4 pieces.

Most hard way reproduction - seeds. Planting material is prepared independently. Take away large fruits and wait for them to mature. Soft berries of a rich red hue are kneaded and passed through a sieve, separating the pulp from the seeds. The seeds are transferred to a colander lined with gauze, washed with water. Planting material is sown in prepared pots or open ground. In the spring, seedlings appear, which must be carefully looked after. Fortified sockets are dug up and seated. They give a harvest in a year.

Soil preparation

• colorado potato beetle;
• nematodes;
• wireworm.

In the spring, they wake up and begin to actively multiply, destroying root system domesticated strawberry. Strawberries do well in soil that used to grow marigolds, cereals, onions or garlic, carrots, beets or radishes.

Choose plots located on the southeast side of the garden. It is ideal if trees grow next to strawberries that will create shade and cover delicate foliage from direct sunlight. Strawberries give a rich harvest if they grow in black soil or dark gray forest soil. The culture likes loamy and sandy soil. The berries will be small and sour if the owner of the cottage has chosen a sod-podzolic or light gray substrate located in a lowland. Strawberries do not take root in areas with too wet soil, which is constantly flooded.

The earth before planting the crop is dug up and carefully inspected. If beetles or eggs are found in the substrate, the soil must be treated with ammonia water. The solution destroys larvae and spores of fungal diseases. Alkaloid lupine can drive away pests. The selected area is sown with a plant, and after a year they dig it out and replace the culture with strawberries.

Areas with a lot of weeds are watered with a Roundal solution. For 1 ha, take 2 liters of the drug. The tool handles perennials, which are firmly rooted, and destroys weed seeds.

The substrate is enriched with humus and wood ash 2–3 weeks before planting strawberry bushes. You can use compost or peat. Fresh manure is prohibited, the component produces a lot of nitrogen, which stimulates the growth of green mass, but inhibits the formation of buds.

Fertilizer is abundantly sprinkled with beds and dug up to the depth of a spade bayonet. The site is leveled with a rake and left for 3 weeks. To get a good harvest, it is recommended to supplement the compost with potassium compounds and superphosphate. For 1 m 20 g of the first and 40 g of the second additive are taken. At hyperacidity soils use dolomitic lime, approximately 250–300 g.

Strawberries are transferred to new beds every 2-4 years. The land in which strawberries grew is recommended to be sown with grain or onion crops. They help the soil recover and saturate nutrients. Strawberries can be returned to the old site after 3-4 years. This is how long it will take the substrate to be enriched with micronutrients.

good time

Domesticated strawberries are planted in spring or autumn. In summer the air temperature is too high. The soil dries out quickly, does not even help frequent watering. A culture deprived of water withers and dies.

In spring, strawberry seedlings are planted at the end of April or May, when the earth warms up to a depth of 5–6 cm. In autumn, strawberries are prepared for propagation in September. Some summer residents begin planting crops in the last days of August. Autumn seedlings have time to take root and take root over the winter, so the crop is harvested the very next year.

Preparation and landing methods

Sockets are soaked in a solution of copper sulfate before planting. The drug is mixed with baking soda in a ratio of 1 to 6. The workpiece is diluted with water: 10 liters of liquid are taken for 30 g of the composition. Copper sulfate disinfects seedlings and protects against fungal diseases.

Sockets dug out of the ground are sent to a cellar or basement for 12–24 hours. The root system is dipped in a mash of orange clay. Mix 5 kg of the dry component with water to get a creamy mass. The workpiece is insisted for several hours, and then smeared with orange paste strawberries. The roots are also wrapped in wet paper so that the shoots do not lose moisture. Seedlings protected from drying out can be stored for several days.

Strawberries are planted in the evening, choose a cloudy day. Well, if it rains a little. There are 4 common landing methods:

• carpet;
• nests;
• separate bushes;
• rows.

The first option is suitable people who rarely come to the country. The tendrils that form in strawberry bushes do not break off, but allow them to take root. The culture gradually grows and captures the site. A special microclimate is created, and a layer of natural mulch is formed on the ground. Strawberries planted with the carpet method rarely need to be watered and fertilized. Weeds do not grow on a plot with strawberries. The earth is rarely loosened, mainly in autumn and spring.

The carpet method has the only drawback. Due to the large number of whiskers and rosettes, the berries gradually become smaller.

Summer residents who want to get large fruits choose the method of planting in separate bushes. Between the beds, a distance of 45–60 cm is observed. Strawberry whiskers are regularly cut off so that the plants do not intertwine with each other. The handicraft method is complex and time-consuming. You often have to loosen and mulch the soil with straw, fertilize and water the beds, and fight weeds.

Thanks to the artisanal method, strawberries develop and bear fruit intensively, and the likelihood of fungal diseases is reduced, because each plant is ventilated.

In order to transplant strawberries not after 2–3 years, but after 5–6 years, summer residents divide the plot into rows. 15–25 cm recede between the pits. The row spacing is 40 cm. The method practically does not differ from the artisanal one. Mustaches are torn off from strawberries, row-spacings are regularly weeded, plants are watered and mulched.

A rich harvest is obtained by planting strawberries in nests. The largest and fluffiest bush will become the core, which is surrounded by other plants. Form a hexagon. The distance between the central and side points is 5–6 cm.

This method will require a lot planting material. A distance of 25–30 cm is observed between the nests. The method provides a rich harvest.

Modern options

Summer residents who are tired of fighting weeds are advised to pay attention to non-woven material. The invention is called "Spunbond". The dense black material allows air to pass through and retains moisture in the soil, creates a favorable microclimate for the development of strawberries, but protects against pests.

Summer residents using Spunbond plant strawberries in rows. The earth is plentifully watered before work. In dry soil, strawberries do not take root well. At a distance of 55–60 cm, grooves are dug, the substrate is covered with non-woven material and fixed with stones or boards. In a dense blank, cross-shaped incisions with a diameter of 5–6 cm are made. Holes are formed by hand, into which seedlings of strawberries are placed. The root system is straightened so that the shoots look down and a little to the side, sprinkled with earth, leaving the core on the surface. corners nonwoven fabric gently straighten so that they cover the base of the strawberry. Outside, only the leaves remain.

In a similar way, strawberries are planted without non-woven material. The wells are abundantly moistened, straighten the root system and sprinkled with a wet substrate. Seedlings are watered abundantly so that they take root better. Topped with fresh straw. Thanks to mulching, moisture is retained in the soil longer, and the roots do not overheat and do not freeze.

Tip: The ammonia solution in which sockets are soaked to prevent fungal infections can be replaced with garlic water. The tool is prepared from 2-3 crushed cloves and 1 liter of liquid base.

If a country cottage area small, and you need to save space, it is recommended to build a pyramid from old tires or boxes. The height of the structure can reach 10 m. The containers are filled with a nutrient mixture, which includes peat, sod land and humus. To make the substrate looser, a little sand is added to it.

The distance between the bushes in containers is 15–20 cm. The volume of land for the root system is 1.5 liters. In winter, the structure is dismantled, and the components are buried in the ground and mulched with fallen leaves. In the spring, during the period of frost, the containers are covered with a film or non-woven material.

Growing seedlings in early spring

Summer residents who want to harvest in May or June build mini-greenhouses for strawberries. The earth is enriched with fertilizers, dug up, and after 3 weeks beds are formed. They make small arcs of wire with a radius of 50–60 cm, set at a distance of 1 m.

The covering material is fixed on the frame with a jute rope. One side of the film is pressed to the ground with iron slats or stones, the other is left free to make it convenient to plant strawberries and take care of the crop. The ends of translucent polyethylene are tied with ropes and fixed with pegs, and then dug in with earth. In a makeshift greenhouse it will be warm and humid. The film attracts sunlight, retains water and protects against weeds.

A thermometer is attached to the inner wall of the greenhouse. If the thermometer shows +25 or higher, the free edge of the film is slightly opened and the greenhouse is ventilated. Strawberry loves warmth, and because of the heat, it weakens and gets sick.

The greenhouse is ventilated sunny days, and when the bushes bloom, the covering material is removed for the whole day, and returned to its place in the evening to protect the seedlings from frost. The film is completely removed after the formation of berries.

In the early morning before the onset of heat, the culture is watered with heated water. You can’t cold, otherwise the strawberries will get sick. The beds are moistened once a week. The earth is periodically loosened, removing weeds and dried bushes. In autumn, strawberries grown in a greenhouse are covered with a mixture of fallen leaves, straw and spruce branches. Before mulching, the soil is enriched with peat and compost.

Seedling from seed

Hybrid varieties of strawberries are propagated by rosettes and dividing the bush. Other varieties can be obtained from seeds. Growing seedlings is easy. You will need a container with a depth of 10–15 cm. The container is half filled with a substrate for seedlings, the soil is watered abundantly.

Small grooves or depressions are made in the ground with a toothpick at a distance of 5–6 cm. Seeds are laid out in the pits, they are not sprinkled with soil. The container is covered with glass and taken to warm room. A container with young shoots is placed on a lighted window. The transparent cover is removed so that the seedlings breathe.

Seedlings with 2 true leaves dive into separate pots. Fertilizers for strawberries are applied to the soil every 2 weeks. Grown up and strengthened bushes are planted in open ground in spring or autumn.

Care

Strawberry beds are advised to be surrounded by plants that repel pests. Slugs do not like the smell of parsley, Colorado potato beetles and other insects do not like garlic, radishes, marigolds, onions, sage and spinach. Pests are repelled by beans and lettuce, as well as cabbage and beets.

In bushes planted in spring, tendrils and inflorescences are removed in the first year. They prevent the plant from taking root and getting stronger. 15 days after planting, the ground is fertilized with mineral or organic supplements. AT flower shops sell biohumus. At home, fertilizer is prepared from fermented grass or bird droppings. The workpiece is soaked in water and insisted for several days. The concentrated solution is diluted and added to the substrate after weeding and abundant watering.

The ground around the strawberry bushes needs to be mulched. The soil is sprinkled with pine or spruce needles. The aroma of pine needles repels the bear, the Colorado potato beetle and other pests. Spruce needles are replaced with straw. The workpiece is first soaked in water and laid out thin layer on a film or sheet of iron, left in the sun. Waiting for weed seeds to germinate. Clean and dry straw is scattered between the rows and under the bushes. Hay or dried grass is used in a similar way.

Garden strawberries are watered from a watering can 2-3 times a week. The hose jet is too strong and can damage leaves and heartwood. The watering can is replaced with sprayers: fan-shaped, swinging, circular or rotary. Strawberries will love it drip irrigation. The main thing is that the water is warm and settled, without impurities of heavy metals.

Plant remontant strawberries possible in spring and autumn. ground before garden work enriched with fertilizers, and then mulched with straw or coniferous needles. Young strawberry seedlings are watered and regularly fertilized, protected from cold and pests, and in the first year, tendrils and inflorescences are plucked. Thanks to this, the culture quickly takes root and adapts to new conditions.

Video: proper planting of strawberries

In this article, we will consider current issues related to planting, transplanting and caring for strawberries.

When is it better to plant and transplant strawberries: in spring, summer or autumn, at what time?

Experienced gardeners know all the secrets of growing strawberries, so every year they get a rich harvest. fragrant berries from their beds. The material in this article will be useful for beginners or those who are just planning to grow strawberries.

This berry, although quite common, requires attention and special care. As well as fertilizing the soil, protecting against pests and bacteria, and many other tricks. But if you do everything right, you can enjoy the taste of strawberries grown by yourself.

First of all, it is important to remember that it is necessary to transplant strawberries once every 3-4 years. This period is the most optimal for a good harvest.

After this period, strawberries begin, as the people say, "degenerate". You yourself can notice that after 3-4 years the strawberry bush becomes weak, the berries are getting smaller, and their number also does not please with abundance.

Strawberries need to be transplanted every 3-4 years

Can you transplant strawberries? in early spring both autumn and summer. The weather should be warm outside.

Important: Plant strawberries on a warm overcast day in the evening. Then the plants will take root better.

• As far as timing is concerned, autumn planting preferably completed by the end of September. If the climate allows, then you can wait until October.
• spring planting it is desirable to finish before flowering. It's about April. At this time, active vegetation occurs, the bush will grow and take root.
• rule summer planting : Strawberries are transplanted after fruiting. Approximate planting dates July-August.

Planting dates for strawberries in spring, summer and autumn

Soil preparation for planting, transplanting strawberries

Before planting or transplanting strawberries, you should carefully prepare the ground:

1. Dig up the area.
2. Apply fertilizer no later than 7-10 days before planting.
3. Level the soil, break up the lumps of dirt.

Suitable as a fertilizer:

• Litter
• Humus
• Compost

Important: Organic fertilizer is applied to the soil at the rate of 1 bucket per 1m².

Also used for strawberry yield superphosphate and potassium sulfate(60 and 30 gr per 1 m², respectively).

You can fertilize the soil complex fertilizer, which can be purchased at a specialized store. Ask the seller to tell you which better fit just for strawberries.

Preparing the soil for transplanting strawberries

Important: When planting strawberries in the same place, it is recommended to "treat" the soil. This is done to prevent bacteria, pests.

It's done in the following way:

• Pour the area with a solution of soda ash (200 g of soda is taken for a 10 l bucket of water).
• After 2-3 days, the soil should be disinfected with a solution of manganese (add 2-3 g of manganese per 10 l bucket of water).

This procedure must be done before planting strawberries.

Video: Preparing the soil for planting strawberries

After what crops is it better to plant strawberries?

Important: When planting strawberries, crop rotation rules should be taken into account.

Crop rotation- this is correct alternation crops in the garden, contributing to good yields.

If potatoes, peppers, cucumbers, eggplants and cabbage were the predecessors of strawberries, then do not expect a good harvest.

It is useful to plant strawberries after parsley, legumes and cereals.

Is it possible to plant strawberries after garlic and onions?

Important: Onions and garlic are the best precursors for strawberries.

Ripe strawberries

Planting and transplanting strawberries in the summer, in August with a mustache: ways, step by step instructions

The mustache propagation method is one of the most commonly used when planting strawberries. Why is this method good?

Sometimes a good variety of strawberries is expensive, and it turns out to buy several bushes of a good variety. Subsequently, from these few bushes with the help of a mustache, you can grow a whole plantation of strawberries.

To grow a bed of good, high-grade strawberries, it will take a long time to observe the whiskers and select the very best uterine whiskers.

Mustache breeding

It is done like this:

1. In the first year, plant bushes and trim all mustaches, harvest the first crop of berries, identify the best and strongest bushes.
2. After the harvest, that is, the end of summer-beginning of autumn, collect all the selected mother bushes, plant them on separate plot. In the spring, when the time for buds comes, cut off all the buds, but leave the antennae.
3. Leave the largest mustache, small ones can be removed.
4. Leave the whiskers to grow freely until June. Around this time, young rosettes will appear on the mustache.
5. These young rosettes should be dug a little into loose earth and water.
6. Now you need to wait up to three weeks until the young seedlings grow.
7. Shorten the ends of the mustache during this period, they also need to be watered, loosen the soil, hill up.
8. 2 weeks before transplantation, cut off the mustache from the mother bush. Now the young bushes have switched to their own root nutrition.
9. Now young bushes can be transplanted to permanent place.

Important: If you plant strawberries in the summer, then over the winter it will take root well, gain strength, and next year you will already harvest your first crop.

The structure of the strawberry bush

What mustache from strawberries should be planted?

If your goal is to grow good strawberry, you need to choose the right mustache.

Mustaches need the strongest, growing from good quality bushes. The rest of the whiskers, which appear gradually on the bush, must be cut off so that they do not take strength from the mother bush.

Video: How to collect planting material - a mustache?

Planting and transplanting strawberries in the fall with a mustache and dividing the bush: methods, step by step instructions

Important: Young bushes should be planted during autumn planting before September 15th. Landing later threatens to freeze the bushes.

How to transplant strawberries with a mustache has already been described above. Let's try to deal with such a method as dividing a bush.

The division of the bush is considered by some to be an emergency method of propagating strawberries. It is advisable to use it in such cases:

1. When there are not enough seedlings to propagate strawberries in the garden.
2. When strawberries have no or little mustache (for example, remontant strawberries).
3. When strawberries are already giving small fruits and she needs a transplant.

At the end of the season, from one point of growth, young plant there are many points of growth. This big bush can be divided into many small ones. Select the roots that are the strongest and most solid. Leaves should not be affected.

• Clean the roots of old strawberry bushes of brown dead parts. Leave only the part of the plant with live roots.
• In order for the new bush to become stronger, it should be spudded. Only the growth point (heart) cannot be covered, otherwise the bush will die.
• If worth hot weather, then shade the planted bushes with straw, grass, make a canopy and water daily until the bushes take root.

IMPORTANT: When propagating strawberries by dividing the bush, if propagated shortly after harvest, you will get a decent harvest from the transplanted bush the next summer. When breeding with a mustache, such a result cannot be achieved the next year.

Division of a strawberry bush

Planting strawberries in August, autumn on agrofibre: methods, step by step instructions

Important: Agrofibre is a breathable material that is used to cover the garden bed, and then seedlings are planted. Thanks to agrofibre, labor costs are reduced and productivity is increased.

Advantages planting strawberries on agrofiber:

• Protects strawberries from weeds;
• Dirt falls on the berries less during rain;
• Protection of berries from pests;
• After watering, moisture is stored under the agrofibre;
• Under agrofibre, strawberries will painlessly survive frosts.

For planting strawberries, black agrofibre with a density of 60 g / m² is most often used. Before you buy agrofibre, calculate the size of the beds.

This is what agrofibre looks like

How to plant strawberries on agrofibre:

1. Prepare the soil as described above.
2. Lay agrofiber on the bed.
3. Fasten the agrofibre along the edges with bricks, then on each side with wire studs.
4. Then with a knife you need to outline the landing sites of the bushes.
5. The cuts must be made crosswise.
6. Wrap the edges of the cuts inward, plant a strawberry bush shallowly.
7. After planting all the bushes, the bed should be watered from a hose with irrigation.

Important: To have access to the beds, put a board on the agrofibre, thus making a path. Thanks to such a path, the agrofibre will not deteriorate.

Video: Planting strawberries on agrofibre

How to water strawberries after planting?

After transplanting, strawberries need watering. However, you should not overdo it in this matter. From an excess of moisture, the roots will begin to rot. Also, water should not fall on the outlet, otherwise the bush will die.

For manual watering it is better to take warm settled water. In warm weather, it is enough to water strawberries once a week early in the morning. When the rainy season begins, no additional watering is needed.

During the flowering period, strawberries especially need watering. Irrigation rate is approximately 10 l / m². When strawberries bloom, you need to use drip irrigation of the soil.

Important: You can not water strawberries little by little and often. Such actions can lead to fungal diseases.

Drip irrigation of strawberries

What can be planted next to strawberries?

Good neighbors for strawberries are the following crops:

• Parsley
• Dill
• Salad
• Radish
• Beet
• Beans

How to feed strawberries in August, in the fall after transplantation?

For fertility, strawberries should be fed. It is necessary to apply both organic and mineral fertilizers.

Organic fertilizers:

1. Humus
2. Compost
3. chicken manure

From mineral fertilizers for the growth and harvest of strawberries, you need:

• Potassium
• Phosphorus
• Magnesium

Nitrogen fertilizers are responsible for the red color of the berry. Potassium - affect the taste properties. If the ends of the leaves turn brown, this indicates a lack of potassium.

Important: Strawberries should be fed in several stages. The first time before planting during tillage. The second time - after the harvest. The last time you should fertilize in the fall.

Some believe that properly prepared soil before planting (transplanting) does not require feeding for about 3 years.

Nevertheless, most experts advise fertilizing strawberries, the yield and taste of berries depend on this.

After harvesting, plants need top dressing to restore strength in the form of complex mineral fertilizers.

Top dressing strawberries

Autumn top dressing should be completed before mid-September. You can feed mullein, chicken manure. Fertilizers are not used pure form and diluted in water. If you feed strawberries with pure litter, the plants will simply “burn out”.

Important: Fertilizers should be applied between the rows of strawberry bushes or under the bush, but not on the leaves. The aisles are covered with cow humus, thus forming a mulch for top dressing for several years.

Dilute litter or humus with water in the following proportion: 1 part of humus per 10 liters of water. Be sure to let this mixture brew for at least a day. Then you can add a glass to the solution wood ash and 20 grams of potash fertilizers.

Strawberries are a delicate fruit. At correct transplant, care and feeding, you will be able to harvest a good harvest from your beds for many years.

Video: How to feed strawberries?

strawberries not in vain is considered the queen of the garden, proper care of strawberries is the key to a large harvest of this wonderful, tasty and useful berry. Growing and caring for strawberries is not as simple as it may seem to beginner gardeners and gardeners. Even experienced gardeners than just do not seek to please strawberries! And the site for it is chosen the sunniest, and the most fertile land is allocated, and timely irrigation is provided. And strawberries, despite all the worries and care, no, no, and they are capricious! But you want not one or two berries, but a good rich harvest.

For growing strawberries you can choose any soil. Of course, there is still a certain relationship between soil quality and productivity. Most best harvest will, of course, be on chernozem podzolized soils and on dark gray forest soil of medium and light composition. Light gray, soddy soils will give a smaller yield. Importantly, the presence ground water, but they should not be too close to the surface.

For planting strawberries the slopes in the south-west of the estate are most suitable, with a slope of 2-3 degrees. It is in such areas that the vegetation process begins much earlier, and the crop here ripens faster. Areas in lowlands or closed areas are not recommended for planting strawberries. If the soil freezes at a depth of 15 - 18 cm to -8 degrees, then your strawberry may die. The acidity of the soil for strawberries should be 5.5 - 6.5, and the humus should be at least 2%.

How to prepare a plot for strawberries?

We have already considered tips on how to properly fertilize the garden, now about preparing the site.
The sworn enemy of potatoes - the Colorado potato beetle, does not disregard and strawberry seedlings. Therefore, even before planting strawberries, check the soil for the presence of May beetle larvae and wireworms. The greatest probability of the presence of these larvae is in areas close to the forest belt. The critical mark of the content of larvae per unit area is 0.5 / sq.m. In this case, ammonia water is introduced into the soil at the rate of 2 t/ha or alkaloid lupine is planted. When the larvae eat its beans, they die. If your site is too littered with cereal weeds, then in the fall the soil is processed by Roundup, at the rate of 3 l / ha. Somewhere in October, the soil needs to be plowed to a depth of 25 - 30 cm. In winter, snow retention will be a good measure to support and increase soil moisture. In the spring, the soil is harrowed and already right before planting strawberries, and then cultivated 14-16 cm deep.
Fertilizer for strawberries is applied depending on the result of the analysis. chemical composition soil in your area.
Before planting strawberries in a new area, it should be examined for soil pest infestation. If they are found, they must be destroyed, and only after that proceed with planting. If many larvae of the cockchafer (1 larva per 2 sq.m) or wireworm were found, the soil should be treated with ammonia water at the rate of 2000 l/ha. At the same time, it is not enough to carry out surface treatment, ammonia water must penetrate the soil to a depth of 20 cm. To do this, you will need to resort to the help of a plow or cultivator. Thus, it is possible to guarantee the death of about 90% of the larvae of these pests. However, the owner of the plantation must scrupulously observe not only the proportion of breeding, but also the timing of tillage. Processing should be carried out in May, because in the future the insects will move to a greater depth, and it will be extremely problematic to get to them. If it is not possible to use ammonia water, it can be replaced with insecticides such as Bazudin, Confidor, Marshal. The best time to use them is when the insects are coming up after overwintering in the soil - this way the plantation owners will give them a decent welcome.

seedling quality

To get rich strawberry harvest, experienced gardeners recommend buying and planting only sorted and healthy quality seedlings, the diameter of the root neck of such seedlings should be at least 6 mm, the roots should be fibrous, and the processes of the roots should be at least 7–9 cm in size. It is better to plant elite varieties or varieties of the 1st reproduction. The right decision will plant seedlings of frigo - plants, i.e. such plants that have been dug up late autumn and were stored throughout the winter at low temperatures. Garden strawberry seedlings are planted in early spring or early autumn. It is very important to invest in the timing of planting, and plant it as early as possible. If you are late and do not plant strawberries on time, then most of seedlings may die.

In autumn, it is better to plant strawberries between August 10 and September 25, preferably after rain, or provide the opportunity for watering. late with autumn planting just as detrimental to strawberries as with spring.

Can you grow your own strawberry seedlings?

Is taken suitable soil: universal or specialized, 0.3 parts of sand are added to 1 part of soil.

The earth must be, literally, sterile. This is due to the fact that strawberry seedlings are very sensitive to all kinds of fungal diseases, just like children. But with the formation of 2 - 3 true leaves, the threat of diseases decreases.

Sterility is achieved by one of the methods of heat treatment - roasting or steaming the soil, up to about 100 degrees.

The mixture is poured into the container, slightly compacted, not moistened.

Then a layer of snow is poured on the surface of the substrate, about 3-5 cm. Seeds are laid out on the surface of the snow, it is better to lay them out in a checkerboard pattern, the seeds are small, so they will be clearly visible on the snow.

The container with seeds is covered with glass or a transparent film, placed on the windowsill. At first, the temperature is +18-20, after a week it can be increased to +25.

It is necessary to periodically ventilate the container with seeds, and moisten if necessary. Until the seeds germinate, additional illumination is not required. After the emergence of seedlings, they can be illuminated with fluorescent lamps.

Watering, especially in the first days after germination, must be very careful, in fact, drip to avoid waterlogging, which can lead to seedlings with a black leg and their further lodging, because the spores of this fungus can even be contained in the air. A good prevention is watering and spraying with a weak solution of antifungal plant protection products, for example, Fitosporin.

As soon as the plants have 2-3 true leaves, we begin to water them more abundantly and gradually accustom them to the open air if the temperature outside is above 10 degrees. At this time, they dive into individual containers. And when the earth open field warm enough, transplant the strawberries to a permanent place, preferably in a state of at least 5-6 true leaves.

Flowers that appear until they are formed mature plant, are removed, since flowering greatly depletes the young plant.

A week after transplantation, they are fertilized with a fertilizer solution, the concentration of which is halved.

The harvest of strawberries largely depends on compliance proper agricultural technology cultivation. Many summer residents are interested in planting strawberries in the summer. Some get good varieties, but, unfortunately, they violate the terms and rules for caring for plants and, as a result, are disappointed and lose interest.

This paper will consider all the main methods of planting and caring for strawberries in summer periods, which guarantees the collection of fragrant, sweet and large berries. A plant planted in summer gains green mass during the growing season, and a year later will thank you good harvest fragrant berries.

Planting dates for strawberries

Effective Strawberry Growing Techniques

Where to get seedlings in the summer

How to plant strawberries so that the beds are pleasing to the eye

Disease control techniques

Conclusion

Planting dates for strawberries

For planting strawberries optimal timing are - the end of July, the beginning of August. In principle, the period is set depending on the climatic conditions of the region. It was during this period that the roots of seedlings are well developed in strawberries. Planting time and root development big influence for next year's crop.

It is best to transplant seedlings with a large clod of earth, and several varieties should be used. Presence different varieties on the site will provide cross-pollination, which has a beneficial effect on the crop. Often, remontant and ordinary varieties of strawberries are placed on the site, this combination ensures the collection of berries in June and July.

The free arrangement of strawberry bushes in the garden contributes to obtaining high-quality and viable whiskers, which are necessary for reproduction. Mustaches appear en masse after fruiting, that is, after picking berries and thinning out the main plantings of strawberries, the resulting mustaches are transplanted to another place, observing intervals between them - 35 centimeters.

Mustaches need to be planted, providing enough space, because in the case of dense plantings, the berries are born small.

For complete care berry plant plants need to be fed regularly. Top dressing is carried out, observing the following periods:

• 1st in spring;
• 2nd at the time of ripening berries;
• 3rd after fruiting.

In general, to summarize, you should feed 3 times a year. The first time the plants are fed in the spring, after cutting the leaves. To stimulate strawberries for flowering, nitroammophoska is used in the proportion of 1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water. As organic fertilizers slurry and bird droppings are often used.

Nutrients are applied under the plant, at the rate of approximately 0.5 liters per bush. At the beginning of the formation of berries, another top dressing is carried out. You can support the plant during fruiting with potassium-containing preparations, such elements have potassium nitrate or wood ash.

Also a useful measure during this period is spraying with a solution containing trace elements. For spraying, you can use 2 grams of a solution of boric acid dissolved in 10 liters of water.

The third top dressing occurs after picking berries and pruning leaves, during the growing season the plant is depleted and requires support. An effective effect during this period is a solution of 2 tablespoons of nitroammophoska per 10 liters of water or 1 glass of wood ash per 10 liters of water.

Effective Strawberry Growing Techniques

In order for the sockets to take root, they need to be lowered into a specially prepared solution for 12 hours. Such a solution is called a mash.

The talker is prepared as follows: take two shovels of earth, add 80 grams of superphosphate, 20 grams of ash and 1 gram of trace elements ( boric acid, blue vitriol). Dissolve the resulting mixture in 10 liters of water. Dip the strawberry bushes into the resulting mixture, so they will remain viable longer.

After that, they prepare the beds, it is best to cook seats on beds about a meter wide. We begin to plant plants, observing the distance between them of about 30–35 centimeters. Planting depth should be strictly observed, since strawberries do not tolerate deepening, but shallow planting, on them, has a negative effect.

When planting, strawberry bushes must clearly monitor the depth of the root neck, it is necessary that the neck be at ground level. If the sprouts have long roots, they must be cut, and when planting, try to straighten them in the right direction. Then mulching and abundant watering are carried out on the beds.

On the first bed, you need to place strawberries of the first year of reproduction, on the second - of the second year, and on the third, respectively, of the third year of fruiting.

Where to get seedlings in the summer

In summer, few rooted mustaches are formed, but if you water and care for the seedlings in a timely and high-quality manner, then you will receive seedlings in full. Well, if it so happened that there are not enough sockets for breeding, contact specialized nurseries that reproduce planting material.

When planting strawberries use the following methods:

1. Two-line landing is considered the most popular, while taking into account the distance between the tapes - 70 centimeters, between the lines - 30 centimeters, in a row - 20 cm;
2. Single-line planting provides for the following distances - between lines - 70 centimeters, in a row - 20 cm.

If your site is located in a lowland, then planting strawberries should be carried out on the ridges. The ridge should be built with a width of 70–80 centimeters, and between the bushes, intervals of 20–25 cm should be observed. Paths should be laid between the ridges, approximately 30–40 centimeters wide.

How to plant strawberries so that the beds are pleasing to the eye

For creating beautiful garden strawberries must comply following options planting schemes: the distance between rows is approximately 1 meter, the distance between plants in the rows should be about 30 centimeters.

Before planting, for about two days, seedlings should be kept in a cellar or other cold place.

Preparatory work for planting consists in adding ash, humus or peat to the holes and moistening the soil. The soil should be moist, not wet. Waterlogging can lead to the formation of pathogenic microbes. Within 14 days after planting, the plants should be watered regularly, and then the soil is covered with mulch.

Disease control techniques

To prevent the appearance of diseases and pests on strawberries, it must be processed in two important growing seasons: before the formation of flowers and after picking the berries. To do this, prepare a solution of 2 tablespoons of colloidal sulfur and ten liters of water or a solution of 2 grams of potassium permanganate also for ten liters of liquid.

Experienced summer residents often use the following methods to prevent illness:

• a solution of 10 milliliters of iodine per 10 liters of water, this mixture helps to get rid of gray rot;
• mix: chopped garlic, soak 100 grams of dry leaves in 10 liters of water and warm up to 40 degrees.

Heavily affected bushes after harvesting should be removed from the beds.

Conclusion

We have considered the main points of strawberry cultivation, and the main thing to understand is that strawberry rosettes planted in the summer will only produce berries the next year. Now every gardener knows how to plant strawberries in the summer. Strawberries love loose soil that provides air exchange.

Having completed all the activities on agricultural technology, you will delight and surprise your loved ones abundant harvests. And when right approach you will remember the harvest on cold winter evenings.

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Every self-respecting gardener grows strawberries (garden strawberries) on his plot. Proper care for the queen of berries will provide high yield large, ripe and tasty fruits. Before planting strawberries, you need to choose the right site, soil, seed variety, planting method, and be sure to take care of protection from pests.

When is the best time to plant strawberries: in autumn or spring

Seedling garden strawberries very sensitive to temperature changes and the amount of moisture present. Therefore, plant in middle lane agronomists advise this wonderful berry either in spring (from April 20 to May 10), or in mid-summer / early autumn after harvest (from July 20 to September 10). These periods are distinguished by cool weather and sufficient moisture necessary for the full development of the plant.

Ways to plant strawberries

Many people ask themselves: what is the best way to plant strawberries in order to get a high yield? There are several ways to plant remontant strawberries:

• separate bushes;
• in the ranks;
• nests;
• carpet method.

If you decide to plant berries in freestanding bushes, then you need to choose correct distance between them. Agronomists consider the ideal gap 50-60 centimeters. To prevent plants from intertwining, you need to regularly trim the antennae, so that the bushes can develop rapidly and bear fruit. The advantages of the method include: large berries, low probability of occurrence of diseases, saving seed.

When planted in rows, the bushes are located at a distance of 10-20 cm from each other, and the row spacing is about 50 centimeters. This method involves regular loosening of the soil, the destruction of weeds. Planted in rows, the plant successfully develops and bears fruit for 4-5 years. The problem of the appearance of weeds is solved by preliminary laying agrofiber on the ground - a special covering film with a mulching effect.

The nest method is used by those gardeners who wish to receive big harvest. You need to plant it like this: one plant is located in the center, and around it there are six more (5-8 cm between the bushes) so that a hexagon is formed. The distance between the nests can be left about 30 centimeters, and between the rows - 40. There is only one drawback of this method - it is necessary a large number of planting material.

The simplest is the carpet method, which forms a kind of microclimate in upper layers plants. The essence of this simple and cheap method is that the whiskers of strawberry bushes are not cut off, thereby allowing the berry to grow over the entire area allotted to it. During growth, a natural layer of vegetable mulch is formed, which inhibits the growth of weeds and retains moisture. Planting this way better themes who rarely visits the country and does not have the opportunity to often water, loosen the soil.

How to plant strawberries in autumn in open ground

Best time to sow strawberries is autumn months(end of August to end of September). A huge plus of this period of the year is that the bushes will begin to bear fruit next summer. Seeds sown in spring will only develop during July-August, and it will be possible to eat garden strawberries only a year later. The exception is purchased varieties, clery, chandler, albion, etc. Before planting strawberries in open ground, you need to take care of proper preparation soil. After that, the distance and method of placing the seeds is already selected.

Soil preparation for planting strawberries

The soil for the growth of garden strawberries should be chosen light, which is well breathable and prone to moisture accumulation. Strawberries are very capricious, so the roots need large quantity additional liquid. There are several secrets if there is little space on the site or the soil is not fertile:

1. Special hydration. You can worry in advance and set up drip irrigation (directly to the roots), however, the implementation of the construction of such an irrigation system is not available to everyone and is often used in industrial scale.
2. Growing in pots. If the soil on the site is not black soil, then the best way out will be a vertical multi-tiered placement of containers with purchased soil in which you need to plant the seeds of garden strawberries. This saves space, and you can also get a big harvest.
3. The use of agrofibre. This material (film / fabric) is used in two cases - when you need to create a greenhouse effect and get a crop a week or two earlier, or as weed protection.
4. Previously used land by other plants. You can also plant remontant strawberries in places where other crops used to grow. For example, best predecessors for garden strawberries, these are potatoes, tomatoes or cucumbers.

Before planting strawberries, the soil must be dug up and loosened. After this procedure, the soil must be fertilized (nitroammophos, organic top dressing). Holes are dug in the ground, in which rhizomes are placed. After planting, the bushes are lightly sprinkled and watered abundantly. It should not be forgotten that strawberries can be grown in the same place for no more than five years.

At what distance to plant strawberries: planting scheme

For landing, you need to choose a sunny, well-ventilated place. With standard placement, strawberry bushes are at a distance of 50 centimeters from each other. The tendrils will not intertwine, and there will be plenty of room for the full growth of the plant. If the area is small, then the distance can be increased to 80 cm and the beds arranged in two rows. For open ground - this is ideal.