organic fertilizers. Description, application

We all know that cultivated plants are very fond of different dressings. What kind of fertilizers you will not find now: mineral, organic, bacterial; and also bioadditives for plants (growth stimulants) - yes, you just can’t count everything! All of them are the food of our green pets, and here organic fertilizers come first. Let's talk about their value to plants.

So, organic fertilizers contain only natural ingredients. Just like minerals, they contain potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen, calcium, iron, magnesium, and so on (almost the entire periodic table). The difference is that all these elements are of natural (plant or animal) origin.

All natural organic matter is in harmonious symbiosis with the soil, enriches it with beneficial bacteria and microorganisms, and has a beneficial effect on the development and productivity of plants. The main organic fertilizers include manure, humus, peat, bird droppings and various composts. Consider each of these types of organic fertilizers.

Manure

Manure from different types of animals differs in composition, in fresh it is undesirable to introduce it into the soil, as it contains plant seeds, pathogenic bacteria and even helminth eggs. But settled from 4 months to 3 years - an excellent tool for enriching different types of soil.

However, if the land is very poor in nitrogen, you can feed the plants with fresh slurry, diluted with water (1: 5). Such top dressing has a beneficial effect on the development of cabbage of all kinds, beets, carrots, tomatoes and cucumbers, eggplants, zucchini and some other types of vegetable crops.

Settled manure is applied to the soil during digging: from 5 kg to 10 kg per 1 sq. m (depending on the degree of its decomposition and the type of animal). You can make a solution for irrigation: add 2-3 kg of manure to 10 liters of water. Usually it is prepared in advance and allowed to brew for 10-15 days. And to get rid of bad smell silica is added to the barrel with infusion: 200-300 g per 100 liters. It is useful to add superphosphate to the manure infusion: 0.5 kg per 100 liters.

Manure is absolutely suitable for all plants and for all types of soils, and 2-3 water top dressings per season are enough to get a good harvest and improve the decorative qualities of plants. Most valuable fertilizer, which is obtained on the basis of completely rotted manure - humus. Read more about the use of manure in the articles:

Peat

By itself, it does not contain many nutrients, but it increases the humus content in the soil and significantly improves it. physiological properties. In addition, the soil richly flavored with peat becomes light and “airy”, and the roots of our green pets feel very at ease in such conditions.

Peat (like manure) differs in the degree of decomposition and happens:

• riding- slightly decomposed parts of plants (leaves, branches, roots, etc.), which is usually not used as fertilizer, but is perfect for mulching (sheltering) plants for the winter and as bedding for pets;
• lowland- completely decomposed plant remains (usually located 8-15 cm below the soil level). It is often used for the preparation of peat-mineral composts. It is especially good to introduce lowland peat into the soil for growing vegetables and delicate exotic plants;
• transition- an intermediate state of peat between upland and lowland. Typically used in composts different composition. Mineral fertilizers, bird droppings or manure, phosphate rock, microfertilizers, lime or ash are added to it.

Peat can be collected from swamps and spread out for ventilation if you are going to mulch the soil with it, or you can put it in a compost heap to rot if you want to use it as fertilizer. By the way, peat reduces the content of nitrates in fruits by almost 2 (!) times and significantly weakens the effect of pesticides that have fallen into the soil.

To improve the fertile properties of the soil, it is usually enough to add 2-3 buckets of peat per 1 sq. m of soil. Moreover, it is better to evenly scatter it over the garden in the fall, and dig it up only in the spring, before planting. It is useful to add wood ash to peat (per bucket) - 200 g, a little superphosphate - 20-30 g and up to 1 kg of slurry.

Read about the methods and nuances of using peat in the materials:

bird droppings

Bird droppings is considered a very good organic fertilizer, and the most saturated in chemical composition is chicken and pigeon. Duck and goose are less valuable.

However, an excess of bird droppings in the soil is fraught with the accumulation of nitrates in plants, so try to adhere to the following proportions:

• raw bird droppings: 0.5 kg per 1 sq. m of soil;
• dry bird droppings: 0.2 kg per 1 sq. m of soil.

The norms are averaged, because (as I said) the quality of the litter depends on the type of its "producer". And when buying ready-made fertilizer, instructions for use are written on the package.

You can also prepare a water infusion of manure for plant nutrition. To do this, it is poured with water in a ratio of 1: 1, the container is tightly closed with a lid, and after a week another 10 parts of water are added to the infusion. Plants are watered with this solution 2-3 times a season.

Compost

Compost is a mixture of various organic fertilizers, which is piled in piles, pits, boxes.

A layer of 10-15 cm of fallen leaves, sawdust, shavings or peat is laid at the bottom. The compost is periodically moistened and shoveled, and after 7-12 months it is quite ready for use. To increase the value of compost, superphosphate, potassium and wood ash can be added to it: for 100 kg of components - 0.5 kg of superphosphate, 1 kg of potassium salt and 4-5 kg ​​of wood ash. Here are a couple of easy compost recipes, but you can of course combine your own.

plant compost

Take plucked weeds, grass, fallen leaves, add garden soil and manure to them in a ratio of 2: 1: 1, put them in boxes, spill them with water, close the lid. Leave to rot for 7-12 months (or more long term).

manure compost

Mix manure with garden soil and peat (5:1:1), put it in boxes, spill it with water, and after 5-6 months you will have ready-made organic fertilizer. And the longer the manure compost lasts, the more valuable qualities acquires.

You can add some sawdust and bone meal (which are already organic fertilizers) to the compost. Anyone who is going to start making compost for the first time will definitely find these useful publications useful:

sawdust as fertilizer

Usually sawdust is used as a fertilizer in combination with urea, since they contain practically no nitrogen. Dilute 250 grams of urea in 10 liters of water and spill 3 buckets of sawdust. It will be an excellent organic addition to heavy clay and loamy soils.

Sawdust treated with urea is applied to the soil in the fall, no more than 1 bucket per 2 square meters. m. They are also good for mulching (shelter) plants for the winter.

Bone flour

Bone meal is rich in calcium and phosphorus, and is applied to the soil at the rate of 3 kg per 1 sq. m; as a top dressing for plants, it accelerates their growth by almost 2 times.

For cooking aqueous solution 1 kg of bone meal pour 20 liters of boiling water and let it brew for a week. Stir the mixture periodically, and then filter and dilute with water 1:10. Feed the plants with a solution once a month, and the result will not be slow to affect. In addition, bone meal is added to various types of compost for heavy soils. On the lungs, it is better to use in pure form.

Of course, it is much easier to use purchased mineral supplements rather than fiddling with organics, to be sure. But not a single “chemistry” will replace natural components. Summer residents are economic, solid people, all organic waste goes to work: And what kind of organic matter do you use in your dacha? Do you have your own compost recipes? Share with us))

An important role in the stability and fertility of the soil is played by organic fertilizers, which are divided into two groups:

1. Vegetable - peat, composts, deciduous and sod land, wood ash and humus.
2. Fertilizers of animal origin - cow and horse dung, bird droppings.

When organic fertilizers are applied to the soil, its structure improves significantly. This contributes to the reproduction of living microorganisms, which are of great benefit, both for the soil and for the plants themselves.

Each of the organic fertilizers is enriched with a completely different composition. Often the wrong use of fertilizers organic origin causes plants to develop deficiency nutrients. In order to avoid such consequences, it is recommended to introduce organic matter in the form of compost material.
Compost is a mixture of various organic substances with the addition of mineral fertilizers, in the form of superphosphates or phosphate rock. Under the action of decomposition, available nutrients are formed in the composts, which are necessary for the active growth of plants, the branching of the root system and the achievement of a rich harvest. Compost materials can be prepared at home.

To make compost you will need:

• A piece of land;
• Straw or plant residues (leaves, potato tops, strawberry tendrils, cut grass);
• Manure, bird or rabbit droppings;
• Peat;
• Lime and phosphate rock.

First, plant residues are laid out on the ground in the form of straw, leaves or tops 10-15 centimeters thick. Then a layer of manure or droppings 15-20 centimeters and a layer of peat 15-20 centimeters. On top of the laid out peat, lime is scattered, mixed with phosphate rock in a ratio of 1: 1. For each square meter compost heap crumbles 50-60 grams of the mixture.

If it is not possible to get phosphate rock and lime, a compost heap can be prepared without these components. But their content will improve the properties of the compost and further the nutrient structure of the soil. On top of the compost pile, another layer of manure 10-20 centimeters thick is laid out. It closes with a small layer of earth.

It is necessary to withstand the compost for 7-8 months, after which it can be used as a fertilizer.

Compost heaps should be organized in shaded places where there is no exposure to direct sunlight, under the influence of which the vital activity of beneficial bacteria and microorganisms will be terminated. AT summer period compost heap blanks, to provide shading, you can plant a pumpkin or zucchini around.

Having directed the branches of plants to a pile, periodically check for the presence of roots and the formation of new shoots of the pumpkin. When horses appear, it is necessary to cut them off the branch in order to root system did not develop and did not withdraw useful substances from the compost heap. An excellent source of shade wall for compost is corn or sunflowers sown nearby.

Useful tips for creating a compost heap

You can also organize a pile in the shady side of the house or barn.

Important! It is strictly forbidden to put the remains of diseased or infected plants in the compost heap, since pathogens do not die even with complete decomposition of plant residues. Once they get into the soil with compost, they will infect again healthy crops disease.

In addition to compost material, the most available material- cow and horse manure or bird droppings.

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chicken manure

Chicken manure is a valuable highly concentrated organic fertilizer. It is distinguished by its speed of action, since its substances dissolve easily and are readily available to plants.

Chicken manure fertilizer can be used on any soil and used for variety of plants. The most successful use of this component is made for plants that have stopped growing, as well as to raise the level of productivity of various berry crops such as currants and strawberries.

In order to fertilize the garden with bird droppings during digging, it must first be dried and then ground or crushed to a powder consistency. Bird droppings are also used as liquid plant food. To do this, it is necessary to pour litter on one third of the container, and fill the rest of the space with water. Infuse the mixture for two to three days, stirring occasionally, to speed up the fermentation process. The finished solution is diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 3 and applied to the soil when digging.

Important! Chicken manure is highly concentrated, so it must be used with caution. It is recommended to apply this fertilizer in small doses with a lower concentration, but more often.

Bird droppings can be stored both in separate piles and in bags. In order to reduce the level of nitrogen loss in bird droppings, it is necessary to periodically add peat or superphosphates to it during the accumulation of droppings.

One method of using manure is to prepare a liquid fertilizer for plants, shrubs or trees.

To prepare a liquid top dressing, it is necessary to fill the container with cow dung by half and fill it to the top with water. Leave to ferment for one to two weeks, stirring occasionally. Before applying the resulting liquid organic fertilizer to the soil, it must be diluted with water 2-4 times. The drier the earth, the more you need to dilute the resulting solution with water. One bucket of diluted solution should be applied per square meter of land.

Mullein contains much less phosphorus than other elements, which can adversely affect plants. For example, if cucumbers are fed with manure, then with a lack of phosphorus, the flow of nitrogen into the plant is blocked. This can lead to the accumulation of nitrates in the fruit, and the crop will be harmful to human health. Prolonged phosphorus starvation leads to a slowdown in the growth of plants and fruits, which affects the overall number and quality of the crop.

In order to get a full-fledged liquid organic fertilizer from cow manure, as well as to avoid unpleasant consequences from a lack of phosphorus, it is necessary to add 50-60 grams of superphosphate to a bucket of the resulting slurry with water to make up for the lack of phosphorus.

In addition, manure is introduced into the soil in a fresh and overripe state. Fresh manure must be applied to autumn season, after harvesting, and the rotted one is brought in in the spring when digging. In the process of decomposition of manure in the soil, carbon dioxide is formed, which improves the air supply of plants. It also reduces the level of soil acidity, which is very harmful to plant growth.

It is better to store manure in compacted heaps, so the least amount of ammonia loss is achieved. In the process of accumulating a manure heap, you can periodically add phosphorite flour to it, which, under the action of decomposing manure, will dissolve, increasing the level of phosphorus and transforming into an easily accessible form for plants.

Due to the dense structure of cow dung, it can be applied to any soil and a variety of vegetation. It has an average heat transfer, due to which it is used to create greenhouse beds for cucumbers, melons or watermelons.

Horse manure is a loose, porous structure, which includes, in addition to feces, hay, bedding elements (sawdust, peat, coniferous residues). Horse manure is in the stage of constant decomposition and has a high heat transfer, due to which it is used as a greenhouse heater and organic top dressing is made from it.

In order to use horse manure as a top dressing for indoor plants, it is necessary to collect one-third of plastic bottle horse feces and pour a liter of water. The resulting mixture must be infused for one week, then mix everything thoroughly and dilute the solution one bottle cap per 10 liters of water.

It is recommended to store horse manure in one pile or in bags. Applying horse manure to the ground spring when digging, it will ensure the enrichment of the soil with the necessary nutrients. This will make the soil structure looser and more moisture-intensive.

Organic fertilizers of vegetable origin

Peat is a decomposed plant residue in the form of a powder structure. There are three types of peat: riding, lowland and transitional. High-moor peat is distinguished by a rather low degree of decomposition of plant residues and a low content of ash and nutrients for plants. This type of peat compound is widely used as bedding for animals, and later for creating composts, and for introducing it as organic matter into the soil.

Lowland peat is different high level decomposition and ash and nitrogen content. Transitional peat has average performance.

Peat: the main properties of natural top dressing

Composts are made from peat, in addition, it is applied to the soil in its pure form. For introduction into the soil, the most useful type is lowland peat, which is enriched with ash substances and has a high concentration of lime and ferrous oxide.

In addition to organic fertilizers of animal origin, green plants - green manures (green fertilizers) are used to improve the structure of the soil and enrich it with useful nutrients. These are plants (mustard, peas, vetch, rye) that are planted in order to get enough a large number of green mass, for further incorporation into the soil, thereby increasing fertility. The grown siderates are cut off before flowering or immediately after flowering, when the plants contain a large amount of nutrients.

Green manure can not only be embedded in the soil, but also left on the surface, thereby protecting it from dryness, weathering and large loss of moisture.

It is recommended that this green vegetation be cut or mowed, so that the root system remains in the soil. It is she who contributes to loosening the soil, as well as the formation of humus, microorganisms and earthworms. In addition, the root system of green manure ensures the extraction of nutrients from the deepest layers of the soil. This allows the greatest use of nutrients by cultivated plant species.
Mowed plants that will remain on the surface of the earth must be shed with a special Baikal extract - EM1 in the morning or evening. This will contribute to the rapid decomposition and fermentation of the green mass.

To save the budget and increase the quantity, you can use a special EM extract prepared on the basis of Baikal EM1. To do this, it is necessary to place 7 kilograms of chopped plant residues in a 10-liter non-metal bucket. Then dilute 250 grams of sugar and 250 grams of Baikal-EM1 in 7 liters of water. Pour the green remains of chopped vegetation with the resulting mixture and cover plastic wrap bucket, setting oppression on top, thereby limiting air access.

Leave to infuse for 10-15 days in a dark place, periodically shaking the bucket to release the extract from the resulting gases.

Can be used as herbal residue medicinal herbs: St. John's wort, chamomile, yarrow, and garlic. With the resulting extract, shed beveled green manure in a ratio of 100 mg per 10 liters of water.

AT vivo the soil will be under the mulch, that is, humus must constantly form under the mowed vegetation. Mulch acts as a "fur coat" for the soil. In the daytime hours of the sun, it protects the soil from excessive drying out, and at night from cooling. Beneficial microorganisms settle at the boundary between mulch and soil, forming nutrient organic matter and improving soil structure.

In addition to mulching, liquid top dressing is made from the green mass of green manure. To do this, put fresh grass in a container. Then pour water in the ratio of 1 kilogram of grass to 10 liters of water. Leave to infuse for five days, stirring occasionally for a faster fermentation process. Cultivated plants are watered with the prepared solution, thereby increasing the quantity and quality of yield.

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Manure is one of the most non-nutritious species, therefore, it must be embedded in infertile soil either in large quantities or paired with other natural fertilizers.

Horse dung. Compared to cow dung, it is more nutritious and valuable, as it contains more useful elements used by plants during their growth and development.

Compound: nitrogen (4.7 g), calcium (3.5 g), phosphorus (3.8 g), (2 g).

Looking at the composition, you can see that the content of nitrogen, calcium and phosphorus is an order of magnitude higher than in cow manure, so it needs to be applied less than mullein. Horse manure is used to fertilize the following crops:,.

By fertilizing these particular crops, you can significantly increase their productivity without adding any chemicals. Also, due to the high heat transfer, this type of manure is buried in for heating.

Pig manure. Using pig manure to fertilize a plot is a big risk as it is the most "corrosive" type of fresh manure. To understand the essence, let's look at the composition, which includes: nitrogen (8.13 g), calcium (7.74 g), phosphorus (7.9), potassium (4.5 g). The content of nitrogen in pig manure is almost 2 times higher than the content of this element in horse waste.

Therefore, improper use of pig feces can destroy any vegetation in the fertilized area. Fresh pig manure can be used as a source of nitrogen, but even then it should be diluted with plenty of water or you will burn the plant roots.

Humus

Speaking about what organic fertilizers are, humus immediately comes to mind, which is the most popular type of natural fertilizer.

Humus- this is an organic fertilizer, which turns into fresh manure or plant residues after two years of decay. Such a fertilizer has a minimum amount of moisture and a maximum amount of nutrients per unit mass.

That is, all of the above types of manure or any plant residues after 2 years of maturation or composting turn into humus, in which there are no pathogens or bacteria, weed seeds or other threats to vegetation and humans.

Humus not only increases fertility, but also changes its structure in better side. It helps retain moisture in sandy soils and loosens heavy clay soils.

The positive side of humus:

• suitable for any crops;
• non-toxic;
• improves soil consistency;
• can be used at any time of the year;
• increases not only the productivity of fed crops, but also soil fertility;
• not dangerous to people and plants;
• can be used as biofuel.

Negative sides of humus:

• the need to make a large volume per unit area;
• impressive price of natural fertilizer;
• the value and composition depends on the diet of the animals from which the humus is obtained (refers to the manure variant);
• when buying fresh manure, you must wait a very long time to get humus;
• the need to allocate large area for storage of fertilizers.

Thus, it turns out the following: it is economically profitable to use humus only if you raise livestock and use the waste to fertilize your site. If humus is purchased, then it is more profitable to use it to feed the most valuable crops that have a high cost or nutritional value.

Describing organic fertilizers, their types and characteristics, one cannot fail to mention bird droppings, which even experienced gardeners or gardeners do not dare to use. We will find out if this waste can be used for a good cause, or if it is better to dispose of it as far from the plantings as possible.

To understand the scope and possibility of using bird droppings, let's evaluate its composition: nitrogen (16 g), phosphorus (15 g), potassium (9 g), calcium (24 g).

As you can see, bird droppings are 2 times higher than "acidic" pig manure in terms of nitrogen content. You will say that if pig manure cannot be used, then the manure is all the more dangerous for plants. However, everything is radically different.

Important! The use of fresh, clean chicken manure is strictly prohibited.

In order not to scorch the roots of plants and properly dispose of bird waste, fresh manure can be placed on compost or planted for top dressing. You can also use bedding from for fertilizer. However, this is possible only in cases where the litter contains a small amount of faeces.

Positive sides:

• accelerates the ripening of fruits;
• increases productivity;
• improves plant immunity;
• non-toxic;
• universal (can be used for most agricultural crops);
• valid for three years after being introduced into the ground.

Negative sides:

• improper use leads to the complete destruction of vegetation on the site;
• requires aging or dilution in water;
• an overdose renders the soil unsuitable for planting for one year.

Based on the foregoing, it can be concluded that bird dung best after composting. The nitrogen concentration decreases after a few months of maturation, which means that the fertilizer becomes safe to use. It is economically advantageous to use chicken manure from a personal farm, since the purchased one may not justify the costs.

Composition of manure: nitrogen (6 g), potassium (6 g), calcium (4 g), magnesium (7 g).

Manure, unlike other types of fresh waste, can be powdered, since the amount of moisture is extremely small. The resulting bulk fertilizer is mixed with the ground (1/3 tablespoon per 1 kg of soil) and used as a substrate for indoor plants. Also, rabbit manure is suitable for fertilizing crops that need a lot of magnesium, since previous types of manure do not contain this element.

It is worth saying that the introduction of fresh rabbit droppings into the soil will have the same effect on the plants as any other manure - it will scorch the roots.

Important!If the litter is subjected to negative temperatures, then all nitrogen will evaporate from it and such fertilizer will lose the lion's share of its value. The same applies to steaming with boiling water.

Since rabbit manure is not used in its pure form, it can be composted or made into a water infusion. Such biological fertilizer is very valuable for agriculture.

Let's list positive sides rabbit droppings:

• convenient to transport;
• high biological value and rich composition;
• versatility of feeding;
• absence of pathogenic organisms and weed seeds.

Negative sides:

• excess fertilizer destroys vegetation on the site;
• the need for pre-treatment (composting, infusion);
• low yield of fertilizer and, accordingly, high cost;
• when drying out, half of the nutrients are lost;
• fresh use is almost impossible.

It turns out that using rabbit droppings is effective only if you yourself are breeding animals or you can buy fertilizer at favorable prices. As with other fresh manure, rabbit manure is not suitable for incorporation into the ground without additional aging (composting or infusion).

It is the second most popular fertilizer after humus, and the first in terms of cost and ease of preparation.

Compost is an organic fertilizer, but not everyone can answer the question of what it is.

Organic residues that have decomposed for a certain time under the influence of the external environment or any adaptations. For the preparation of compost, you can use any vegetation residues (including roots), manure, peat, foliage from trees, plant and animal human waste, unsuitable feed, eggshell and even human feces.

Well-rotted compost is not inferior in quality and the presence of nutrients to humus. Therefore, compost is applied in the same dosages as humus. You can use compost to fertilize absolutely any plants on, in the garden or in the house.

Benefits of compost:

• low cost of time and resources;
• versatility in application;
• absence of harmful organisms and weed seeds;
• low cost of fertilizer;
• any animal or plant residues are suitable as raw materials;

Cons of compost:

• the value of fertilizer depends on the raw material;
• unpleasant odor during the decomposition of residues;
• compost storage requires a lot of space;
• per unit area it is necessary to use a large amount of fertilizer;
• purchased compost may have extremely low utility for plants.

Thus, compost can and should be used to fertilize the site, especially if you accumulate a large amount of various biological waste daily.

Ash

We will also talk about the one that is formed after the burning of plant residues from the site and manure. What can ash give us and how valuable is it?

The composition of the ash, depending on the raw materials burned, includes the following elements: phosphorus, calcium, potassium, magnesium, boron, manganese and others. It turns out that ash, like the previous types of organic fertilizers, contains everything necessary connections, which contribute to an increase in productivity and soil improvement.

Used for fertilizer absolutely any vegetation on the site, since it does not contain in large quantities any substances that can poison or “burn out” plants. However, you should be careful when applying ash to areas with high alkalinity, as it can aggravate the situation.

Important! It is best to use ash in tandem with "acidic" fertilizers, which have nitrogen in their composition.

Positive sides:

• simple "cooking" of fertilizer;
• the absence of any threats to a plant or a person;
• low consumption per unit area;
• convenience in transportation and storage;
• absence of unpleasant odors;
• fertilizer versatility;
• product does not require additional processing or excerpts.

Negative sides:

• the usefulness of ash depends on the raw materials burned;
• ash, in the form of fertilizer, is not suitable for crops that prefer acidic soils.

Ash is somewhat similar to compost, as its value depends on the raw materials that are used to obtain the final product.

If you yourself get ash by burning unnecessary residues, then such a fertilizer has zero cost and is excellent for increasing yields and reducing soil acidity.

Did you know? In the building materials industry, ash is used to produce some types of concrete.

Peat

Peat- a popular fertilizer that is used to increase the yield of agricultural crops and top dressing. In fact, these are decomposed, compressed remains of plants or animals, and in the wild, a huge amount of peat is formed in swamps, under conditions high humidity and lack of oxygen.

The composition of peat includes such elements: nitrogen, calcium, iron, fluorine, silicon, aluminum, manganese and others.

Although it consists of more than a third of humus, use it in its pure form and in large quantities to increase productivity is not possible. This is because such a fertilizer is poor in nutrients. That is, for example, the presence of nutrients in fertilizer can be compared with the calorie content of food.

Food can contain a huge amount of useful elements, but its nutritional value, at the same time, can be extremely low. The same can be said about peat. Therefore, if you "plant" your crops exclusively on peat, then do not expect a tangible increase in yield.

Advantages of peat:

• contains a huge amount of micro and macro elements;
• easily transported and stored;
• does not pose a threat to humans or plants;
• you can get peat at home;
• can be used not only as a fertilizer, but also as a fuel;
• loosens the soil, making it more loose;
• suitable for most crops and houseplants.

Cons of peat:

• high price;
• strongly oxidizes the soil (when used in its pure form);
• useless as a fertilizer for fertile soils;
• dried fertilizer is difficult to soak to release the necessary elements;
• peat is used to fertilize plants on the site exclusively in tandem with other top dressings.

It turns out that peat is a situational fertilizer that should be embedded in the soil in tandem with other nutritious top dressings. Pure peat is only used to acidify the soil, which means it requires less acidic additives (like ash) to balance the pH.

Did you know? Processed peat is used to absorb oil from the surface of the ocean or its coast, as well as to treat wastewater.

This video describes how you can make peat with your own hands.

Biohumus

Biohumus- this is manure that has been processed by worms. That is, it is a waste of the activity of earthworms.

Biohumus is not very popular among "experienced" gardeners and gardeners, as it is more common to use compost and humus, but such fertilizer is just a storehouse of all kinds of useful elements and minerals.

In addition, biohumus () contains a large number of beneficial bacteria that strengthen the plant's immunity and contribute to its development.

Fertilizer composition: nitrogen (20 g), phosphorus (20 g), potassium (15 g), calcium (up to 60 g), iron (up to 25 g), magnesium (up to 23 g), organic matter more than ½ of the total mass.

Unlike the fertilizers described above, biohumus is not only suitable for any soil and plant crops, but also is a “concentrated black soil”, which significantly increases soil fertility.

To understand the value of such a fertilizer, let's give visual figures. The introduction of 1 ton of manure increases the yield of cereals by 11-12 kg per hectare, the introduction of the same mass of biohumus increases the yield by 130-180 kg. It's hard to believe, but that's the way it is. In essence, you are applying fertilizers that have a higher productivity than the best black soil.

Positive sides:

• absence of pests or weed seeds;
• source of beneficial microorganisms;
• non-toxic;
• satisfies all the needs of plants;
• does not wash out with water;
• an overdose does not poison the soil (it is impossible to plant in pure biohumus).

Negative sides:

• very high price purchased biohumus (about $350 per ton);
• It is impossible to “prepare” fertilizers at home without buying special worms;
• the process of biohumus formation takes a long time.

It turns out that biohumus - the best fertilizer for any crops, if you do not take into account its price. If you have a lot of time and initial capital, it is worth starting a small production of excellent fertilizer.

If you are going to buy vermicompost, then it is more profitable to feed only the most valuable crops that you are going to sell. In any other case, the costs will not pay off, so you should carefully consider everything before buying such a fertilizer.

Green manures (green fertilizers)

siderates- These are plants that are grown for further incorporation into the ground. Green manures enrich the soil with easily digestible nitrogen and other trace elements.

Green manure plants include: all legumes, mustard, "standard", . In total, about four hundred different cultures can act as green manure.

We plant, for example,. As soon as it gains the necessary green mass, we embed it in the ground and after a certain period of time we plant the main crops in this place. Peas decompose and supply our vegetation with useful substances.

Advantages of using green manure:

• no threat to plants or humans;
• no need to allocate space for storing fertilizer;
• versatility of use;
• the presence of the main elements that plants need;
• overdose is impossible, since green manure does not rot "at the moment";
• disposal of tops and other residues that are discarded;
• fertilizer does not poison the soil.

Cons of using green manure:

• rotting lasts about two years, so there will be no instant soil improvement;
• spending time and money on sowing and growing green manure;
• it is impossible to transport this type of fertilizer over long distances;
• green manure deplete the soil, accumulating useful substances;
• green manure must be used in tandem with other types of fertilizers to get the expected effect.

It turns out that the sowing of green manure plants, although it gives an increase in yield, requires additional costs from you, which may not justify themselves.

Depending on the choice of crop that will serve as fertilizer, the usefulness of such fertilizer varies, so it makes sense to plant in the soil the vegetation from which the crop was harvested (or at least part of it) in order to justify the money spent on seeds and watering.

Bone meal (bone meal)

Bone flour- these are the bones of cattle or fish ground to a powdery state.

Let's talk about animal bone meal. This fertilizer is rich in phosphorus and calcium, therefore it perfectly fills the needs of plants in these elements. Also, the composition of bone meal includes many microelements and biologically active substances that have a positive effect on the growth and development of crops.

Fish meal. The same bulk product, which is obtained by grinding and grinding bones various fish. This flour is different high content nitrogen, which is practically absent in the bone meal of livestock. In addition, the amount of phosphorus is an order of magnitude higher than in cattle bone meal.

It is worth remembering that bone meal reduces the acidity of the soil, therefore, on alkaline soils, it should be used with another oxidizing additive, which will equalize the pH level.

Benefits of bone meal:

• does not contain harmful impurities, harmful organisms and weed seeds;
• has a very low cost;
• at proper storage"shelf-life Unlimited;
• has a prolonged action, so plants receive all the elements in small doses;
• suitable for any crops, the development of which depends on phosphorus and calcium;
• can be used to reduce the acidity of soils;
• easy to transport and store;
• does not have an unpleasant odor.

Downsides of bone meal:

• difficult to cook at home;
• is not a complex fertilizer;
• if used incorrectly, you can significantly increase the percentage of phosphorus in the soil and make it unsuitable for planting most crops.

It turns out that it is almost impossible to cook bone meal at home, so this is an additional waste for the purchase. It makes sense to use such a fertilizer only in tandem with other organic fertilizers that contain a small amount of phosphorus and calcium. The use in its pure form will not give anything, and an overdose will completely leave you without a crop.

sawdust

sawdust, most often used for soil mulching, relieving plants from severe temperature changes and weeds. Direct embedding of small sawdust into the ground will not only not give a positive result, but will also lead to a deterioration in the quality of the soil, which is worth remembering.

So how do you use it as a fertilizer? There are 3 ways to use them: , composting, mixing with manure/humus.

Important! To mix fresh sawdust it is necessary with fresh manure, because this way wood chips absorb a large amount of nitrogen.

If you have mulched the soil sawdust, then at first they will only perform a protective function. Only after 3 years, when the processes of decay have passed, the sawdust will nourish the soil and give useful elements to the planted plants.

Composting. Sawdust, like other plant residues, can be composted and later obtained good fertilizer. Mixing with humus or manure. This option is recommended to be used in greenhouses and greenhouses to quickly warm the soil and make it looser.

Benefits of sawdust:

• perfectly loosen the soil;
• can be obtained at home;
• low cost of production;
• can be used as protection, which eventually turns into fertilizer;
• you can reduce the acidity of the soil or increase it using fresh or rotten sawdust;
• ease of transportation and storage;
• no smell.

Cons of sawdust:

• a colossal period of complete decay (up to 10 years);
• fresh sawdust can draw all the nitrogen out of the soil, and rotted sawdust can oxidize the soil to such a state that only wormwood will grow on it;
• does not have a high nutritional value for plants;
• purchased sawdust may contain impurities of varnishes and paints that are toxic to plants.

Thus, sawdust is better used as a “protector” that will nourish crops over time, rather than as a full-fledged fertilizer.

If there is a large tonnage of fresh produce available, then it is better to put it on compost, in which case you will quickly get a full-fledged fertilizer.

Did you know? Drinkable alcohol can be synthesized from sawdust.

Il

Silt (sapropel)- plant and animal remains that accumulate at the bottom of rivers and lakes, like peat.

Dry sludge has the following composition: nitrogen (20 g), phosphorus (5 g), potassium (4 g).

As you can see, in terms of the content of the main elements, sludge is not inferior to animal waste. Such a fertilizer is valuable because it quickly decomposes in the soil, like plant residues.

It is worth remembering that silt is used on sandy soils, keeping moisture in the soil. When using silt on loamy soils, you need to be careful, as it impairs air permeability and retains water. The ideal option there will be the introduction of silt paired with other fertilizers that improve the flowability of the soil.

Positive sides:

• sludge, in terms of the presence of basic elements, is not inferior to animal waste;
• can be used immediately after drying;
• quickly rots in the ground;
• improves the structure of sandy soils;
• does not contain weed seeds;
• rich in biologically active substances.

Negative sides:

• you can get silt only from reservoirs in which there is a weak current;
• "Fresh" sludge can seriously harm plants, so it needs to be dried;
• high nitrogen content increases the acidity of soils, so its use is limited to neutral and alkaline soils;
• silt from a polluted pond can destroy vegetation on your site;
• the composition and value of the fertilizer depend on the reservoir from which the sludge was extracted.

It turns out that it makes sense to use sludge only if there is a lake or a river with a weak current nearby, since purchased sludge can contain a large amount of harmful substances(in most reservoirs sewage is discharged). If you decide to buy sludge, then compare the recommendations with the real indicators of your soils so as not to aggravate the situation.

Feces

The most unpopular ones complete the niche fertilizer - human feces. Many gardeners and gardeners specially construct outdoor toilets away from plantings, so as not to poison the soil, however, even such a fertilizer can benefit your plantings.

Let's start with the composition: nitrogen (up to 8 g), phosphorus (up to 4 g), potassium (3 g).

In fact, human feces contain about the same concentration of the main elements as horse manure, with the exception of nitrogen. To use such fertilizers without harm to plants and humans, they must be composted in tandem with slightly decomposing organic residues (peat, sawdust). The minimum composting period is 3 months. Using feces in its pure form is strictly prohibited, as they are the source of a huge number of pathogenic organisms that will harm you and planted crops.

After a minimum exposure, the faecal mixture should be kept for about 18 months in stacks for complete decontamination.

Ready fertilizer used in the same way as bedding manure. Decayed faeces are of greater value to plants than animal waste.

Positive sides:

• emptying cesspools at no additional cost;
• relatively high value of the finished fertilizer;
• there are no costs;
• there is no need to worry about the lack of raw materials;
• no weed seeds.

Negative sides:

• bad smell;
• long term "cooking" of a full-fledged fertilizer;
• it is necessary to allocate a lot of space for rotting feces;
• it is necessary to use additional additives (peat, straw, sawdust), without which complete decay of feces is impossible;
• raw materials are a breeding ground for harmful bacteria and microorganisms;
• purchasing raw materials is extremely problematic.

Following the foregoing, we can conclude that although human feces can be used as fertilizer, however, an unpleasant smell and a long process of decay will scare away most gardeners and gardeners from such an activity. It is rational to use this type of fertilizer only if compost heaps can be located at a great distance from residential buildings and industrial enterprises, since otherwise complaints from neighbors and outbreaks of various infections cannot be avoided.

35 times already
helped

Types of organic fertilizers:

• biohumus;
• peat gel;
• humic fertilizers;
• manure;
• bird droppings;
• non-marketable part of the crop;
• peat;
• pond silt;
• lake sapropel.

Biohumus- environmentally friendly organic fertilizer, a product of manure processing by earthworms. This concentrated fertilizer contains a balanced complex of nutrients, trace elements, enzymes, soil antibiotics, vitamins, plant growth and development hormones. In addition, biohumus contains a large amount of humic substances. This is a unique fertilizer in which beneficial microbiota lives, which is responsible for soil fertility. Biohumus does not contain pathogenic microflora, helminth eggs, weed seeds and heavy metals; it is easily and gradually absorbed by plants throughout the growing season.

Advantages of biohumus:

• quickly restores soil fertility, improves its structure, improves quality;
• has no inertia of action, plants and seeds immediately react to it;
• accelerates seed germination, plant growth and flowering, reduces fruit ripening by 2-4 weeks;
• provides strong immunity plants, increasing their resistance to stress, bacterial and fungal diseases;
• increases productivity and taste qualities products;
• binds in the soil heavy metals and radionuclides.

Torfogel- concentrate, which is a homogeneous suspension of dark brown color, which includes more than 30 macro - and microelements, mineral and organic substances, as well as amino acids and vitamins.

Micro and macro elements contained in peat gel are easily absorbed by plants, intensified in plant cells metabolic processes, the content of vitamins and other valuable substances increases (for example, in wheat - gluten), while the content of nitrates in products decreases by 2 times or more, the development of the root system is stimulated. As a result, the yield increases by 20-40%, the ripening period is reduced by 10-12 days, and the resistance of plants to drought and frost increases. Thanks to the use of peat gel, further soil degradation is stopped, humus is gradually accumulated and restored.

Humic fertilizers- catalysts of biochemical processes in the soil, its biological activity due to the use of organic matter of humates by soil microflora. Humates contribute to an increase in the number of spore bacteria, fungi, actinomycetes, cellulose bacteria. Humic fertilizers improve the physical, physico-chemical properties of the soil, its air, water and thermal regimes. Humic acids, together with mineral and organomineral particles of the soil, form a soil absorbing complex, which determines the absorption capacity of the soil. Humic substances introduced into the soil contribute to the fixation of nutrients in it and their more rational consumption. For example, potassium humate increases the degree of use of phosphorus from the soil by 20-25%, potassium - by 23-25%.

Manure. The introduction of 20-30 t/ha of manure gives an increase in yield, in particular, cereals - 0.6-0.7 t/ha, potatoes - 6-7 t/ha, root crops - 15-20 t/ha. Correct use manure improves the quality of all types of soil. After the introduction of manure, sandy and sandy loamy soils become more cohesive, their absorption capacity increases. Clay soils become more loose, water - and breathable, easier to process.

Manure not only increases the yield of agricultural crops in the year of application, but also has a significant aftereffect within 4-5 years. Moreover, in arid regions, the aftereffect often exceeds the direct effect (in the first year after application).

The minimum doses of manure to maintain the content of humus in the soil is 10-12 t/ha, but the doses depend on the quality of the manure, as well as the fertilized crop. Under vegetable crops it is necessary to contribute more manure(40-50 t/ha).

In home gardens, bedding manure is used. Litterless (liquid) manure is produced mainly on large farms, where direct water flushing systems are used. AT recent times liquid manure is used to produce combustible gas using methane fermentation plants. A rational way to use bedless manure is to compost it with peat, straw, and plant residues. To prepare compost with straw, 3-4 tons of bedless manure are taken for 1 ton of straw. Liquid manure is applied to a straw pillow 0.7-1 m high, a pile is formed from the composted mass, covered with earth or peat and left until ripe. It should be noted that manure from large farms may contain heavy metals and radionuclides.

The use of litter for keeping animals is laborious, but it significantly improves the quality of manure due to the fact that the litter absorbs liquid and gases, accumulating nutrients valuable for plants. Straw, hay, peat or peat chips are used as bedding, less often - wood chips and sawdust.

Fresh manure is not applied, because it contains a lot of weed seeds, pathogenic microflora, helminths, etc. Manure is stored before application, and at this time it partially decomposes (overheats). Depending on the storage method, the quality of manure will vary.

Manure storage methods:

• dense (cold) storage;
• loose storage;
• loose (hot) storage.

In dense or cold storage, manure is laid in layers 3-4 cm thick and compacted into a stack 1.5-2 m high (the length depends on the amount of manure). But for better compaction, it is more convenient to lay manure in a pit about 1 m deep. From above it is covered with peat or straw. The temperature in a densely packed stack is low (20-30 °C), air access to it is limited, pores free from water are occupied carbon dioxide(CO2). As a result, microbiological activity is hampered, decomposition proceeds slowly, so the loss of nitrogen with this method of storage is relatively small. The disadvantage of dense storage of manure is that at a low temperature, weed seeds, fungi, helminths, etc., do not die in the pile.

During loose storage of manure without compaction, the greatest losses of organic matter and nitrogen occur, the manure decomposes faster, but the nitrogen content in it decreases due to the volatilization of ammonia.

During loose-packed, or hot, storage, manure is first laid in a loose layer 0.8-1 m high, microbiological processes proceed under conditions of good air access, organic matter decomposes intensively, the temperature rises to 60-70 ° C and significant losses of nitrogen are observed. Then the manure is carefully compacted, while the access of air inside the stack is stopped, the temperature drops to 30-35 ° C, the aerobic conditions of decomposition are replaced by anaerobic ones, the loss of organic matter and nitrogen decreases. A second layer is applied to the first layer of manure, then a third, and so on until the height of the stack reaches 2-3 m. With this method of storage, manure decomposes much faster, weed seeds and pathogens of gastrointestinal diseases die, while the loss of organic matter and nitrogen is less than with a loose storage method.

Nitrogen losses during the decomposition of manure during storage are significantly reduced if, when stacked, phosphorite flour is added to it - 2-3% of the mass of manure. Manure-phosphorite compost matures in 2-3 months in spring and summer and in 3-4 months in winter. Phosphorus of phosphate rock passes into a form available to plants. At the same time, the binding of ammonia released from manure occurs with the formation of NH 4 H 2 PO 4, and its losses are reduced. One of the ways to improve the quality of manure is bioconversion using fermentation with bacterial preparations Baikal EM1, Biostim, etc.

Degrees of manure decomposition:

• fresh;
• slightly decomposed (straw almost completely retains its color and strength);
• semi-rotted (dark brown straw, easily torn);
• rotted (the straw is completely decomposed, the manure is a black smearing mass);
• humus (loose earthy mass).

In rotted manure and humus, 40-60% of nitrogen is lost, and in semi-rotted manure - only about 15%, therefore it is most rational to use semi-rotted manure.

Manure organic matter - good available source nutrition of soil microflora, supporting its vital activity. Therefore, when manure is applied, the microbiological activity of the soil and the mobilization of the nutrient reserves contained in it improve. In addition, manure contains all the nutrients necessary for plants. It is generally accepted that 1 ton of semi-rotted manure contains 4-5 kg ​​of nitrogen, 2-2.5 kg of phosphorus and 5-7 kg of potassium, the actual content of these elements may vary.

Manure is usually applied in autumn, but good quality semi-rotted manure can be applied in the spring. Depth of incorporation of manure into the soil in natural farming- up to 12 cm, it is at this depth that most of the soil microbiota lives, which is responsible for the decomposition of organic matter.

bird droppings- the full fast-acting fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in a form, easily accessible to plants.

To preserve nitrogen in the manure, it is best to use dry peat bedding in poultry houses that absorb ammonia released from the manure, or store manure mixed with peat. Bedding chicken manure of relatively low humidity, loose. It can be used like regular manure.

The best way to use bird droppings is to prepare composts with peat or straw, which are taken in enough to make a sufficiently loose and free-flowing mass. If there is no peat, you can sprinkle the litter with dry earth, sawdust. The ratio between manure, peat and sawdust: 1:0.5:0.5.

Non-marketable part of the crop- straw, crop residues. All this is a valuable source of replenishment of organic matter in the soil. The stubble that remains on the field can reach 10-30 cm, but it can be higher. The weight of stubble height of 10 cm can reach up to 1 t/ha. Straw contains up to 0.5% nitrogen, 0.25% phosphorus, 0.8% potassium, 35-40% carbon, as well as trace elements. Moreover, potassium is in a form easily accessible to plants, like more than half of the phosphorus in the straw of cereals. To enhance the mineralization of organic matter, crop residues are treated with liquid manure. This method of soil enrichment with organic matter is very common in the United States, where about 550 million tons of dry organic residues (about 75% of crop waste) are applied annually.

Peat often used for making composts, but its widespread use is impractical. The fact is that peatlands accumulate a lot of moisture, which feeds streams, rivers, lakes. Peat bogs, depending on the conditions of formation and the nature of the prevailing vegetation, are divided into three types: upland, lowland and transitional. Peat various types swamps differ in quality.

horse peat usually contains a large amount of organic matter, is characterized by high acidity and high absorption capacity: 1 kg of dry peat can absorb 8-15 liters of moisture. High-moor peat is used as bedding material and for the preparation of composts.

lowland peat It is characterized by high ash content and lower, in contrast to high-moor peat, acidity. Lowland peat contains less organic matter than highland peat, it is less moisture-intensive, it is used for composting.

transitional peat in its properties it occupies an intermediate position between upland and lowland. It is used for making composts and as bedding for animals.

Pond silt and lake sapropel- a valuable fertilizer that increases soil fertility (3 t/ha is enough to significantly improve the nutritional regime and mechanical composition of the soil). But these fertilizers have a drawback: heavy metals can accumulate in them, even if their content in the water of the reservoir is small.

In contact with

How much agriculture develops on Earth, the same number of people to receive good harvests apply organic fertilizers. Types and their characteristics must be taken into account when using, since each of them has its own characteristics. Some need to be applied to the soil in the fall, others at the time of planting, and others throughout the growing season. The value of organic matter lies in its beneficial effect on the condition of plants, in improving the soil, in increasing yields and in cheapness, because every farmer can prepare it in his personal subsidiary plot.

Organic fertilizer: what is it

Many will immediately say manure and compost. The answer is correct, but incomplete, because organic fertilizers are human and animal waste, as well as household and even industrial waste, which contain substances necessary for the development of plants in the form of organic compounds. This may include:

bird droppings;

Feces;

Waste wood processing factories (sawdust, tree bark, etc.);

green manure plants;

Compost;

bone meal;

Humus;

complex organics.

Chemical composition

As you can see from the above list, there are a variety of organic fertilizers. Types and their characteristics mainly depend on the source of production, and in addition, on the technological process of fertilizer production. Each of them contains:

Calcium;

Special (a very valuable element that improves soil structure).

In small quantities, organic fertilizers include:

sulfuric acid;

Silicic acid;

Oxides of some metals and other chemical elements.

Let us analyze in more detail what and how much is contained in each type of organic fertilizer.

Manure

This very valuable fertilizer is nothing but the faeces of domestic animals, with the exception of cats and dogs. Depending on the type of animal, organic fertilizers of different composition are obtained. Types and their characteristics also depend on the stage of the cooking process, which are as follows:

Fresh manure (applied only in the fall, the soil is immediately plowed after that);

Semi-rotted (the straw in it becomes dark, easily divided into pieces);

Overripe (homogeneous dark mass);

Humus.

The higher the stage of manure preparation, the more it loses its mass, and the better the organic matter decomposes in it and the quality increases.

It is equally important on which bedding this fertilizer is prepared.

As can be seen from the table, there is very little calcium in pig manure, so lime is added to it.

Rabbit manure is also a good fertilizer. But from nutria, you can use only rotted manure or add it to compost.

Storage methods

Manure from different animals is, among other things, diverse organic fertilizers. Types and their characteristics directly depend on how they are stored. The methods can be the following:

1. Loose styling. Stacks up to 3 m wide and up to 2 m high are made from fresh manure, they are not covered with anything. With this method in stacks (t = +70 °C), the preparation process takes about 4-5 months, during which up to a third of the original mass is lost.

2. Tight styling. From fresh manure, the same piles are made as in loose laying, but the manure is compacted tightly and covered with an airtight film. In such stacks, the temperature does not rise above +35 °C even in summer. Decomposition with this method lasts about 7 months, and the original mass is lost up to 1/10 of the part. Dense laying - the most acceptable way storage.

3. Loose laying with compaction. A low, loose pile up to 3 m wide is made from fresh manure. On the fifth day, it is rammed, and a new loose layer is laid on top. This is repeated until the stack reaches a height of two meters, after which it is covered with a film. Completely rotted manure is formed in 5 months.

How to apply

The use of organic fertilizers, in particular manure, has its own little tricks. So, horse manure is ideal for warm beds, because there is little water in it. It is buried in special trenches, pulled out along the perimeter of the beds, and after the need for it disappears, they are scattered across the field. On light soils, it is better to use manure from cows, and on heavy soils, from sheep, goats and horses. Under spring crops, fresh or semi-rotted soil is plowed into the soil in autumn, and humus is introduced in spring. If there is little fertilizer, it is advisable to apply it not to the entire plot, but only to the wells. When planting trees, it is very useful to add up to 10 kg of humus to each hole.

Important! Under no crops can fresh manure be applied. It releases ammonia, which is detrimental to plants. There are no general norms for fertilizing, since they are different for each crop and directly depend on the quality of the soil.

In stores you can find manure extract. It is also an excellent fertilizer, but only for plants. It is useless for improving the condition of the soil.

Liquid organic fertilizers, their types and characteristics

There are the most various fertilizers that you can do yourself without spending Money. Those who have the opportunity, they use manure. It can be used in solid form, or it can be used to make liquid organic fertilizers - slurry and mullein. The latter is prepared by pouring water on cow feces. Use it for dressing absolutely any plants, even flowers. At the same time, they take 1 liter of mullein in a bucket of water. The slurry does not need to be prepared. It is the liquid part of manure. Liquid fertilizers include herbal infusions and even human urine, but more on that below.

As can be seen from the table, there is almost no phosphorus in this fertilizer, so superphosphate is added to the slurry (about 15 g per liter).

Litter

It is believed that the best organic fertilizers are obtained from the droppings of pigeons and chickens. The waste products of geese and ducks are somewhat worse in quality.

Bird droppings should be stored in closed containers or composted with peat, straw, sawdust, as it loses its nitrogen component very quickly. Bird is used for feeding vegetables, fruit and ornamental trees, shrubs, flowers. In its pure form, it is not brought in, but poured with water (1 part of organic per bucket of water) and insisted for up to 3 days. After that, it is again diluted with water, taking 1 measured part of the infusion and 10 - of water.

Human feces

Some gardeners do not even suspect what exotic types of organic fertilizers are. One of them is our feces. Previously, absolutely everything was fertilized with these waste products, they were even sold. Now this type of fertilizer is not popular, although it is almost the best. It should be noted that not only feces are called feces, but also urine, which is also suitable as a fertilizer. The only caveat is that nitrogen evaporates almost instantly from it, so the biomaterial must be covered with soil immediately after application.

As can be seen from the table, feces are ideal for improving soil quality.

Of course, many farmers even disdain to think about using human feces as fertilizer. For those who are more loyal to this, it is important to know what methods of preparing such organics exist. To remove the unpleasant smell, the "raw materials" must be shifted with peat or, in extreme cases, with leafy soil. You can also arrange compost heaps from foliage and plant debris, laying feces in layers in them. They must be aged for at least 3 years.

Urine as a fertilizer is used immediately. For trees, it can not be diluted. For other cultures, it is desirable to dilute with water in a ratio of at least 1:4. It is also useful to water compost heaps with urine.

Peat

To the question: “What fertilizers are organic?” many will answer: "Peat". It is widely advertised, it is actively sold by everyone flower shops, it is sought to be used by many gardeners and gardeners. However, there are not so many substances useful for plants in peat to fertilize them all indiscriminately. In addition, it must be taken into account that there are different types of peat, which differ significantly in quality.

As can be seen from the table, peat, especially lowland peat, is advisable to use on acidic soils. It is necessary to use all types of peat only to improve the quality of soils, regulate their moisture content, as well as to create high-quality compost and for mulching any crops, but not for fertilizer.

Sapropel

Some types of organic fertilizers are familiar to us from balneological procedures in sanatoriums. Such is the silt of lakes, ponds, any reservoirs with stagnant water, called sapropel. It is especially used in Rostov region thanks to the huge reserves in Lake Nero. Sapropel, which is plant and animal remains, accumulates in reservoirs for decades. During this period, it gradually decomposes, turning into the most valuable organic fertilizer, in which there is a lot of phosphorus, potassium, calcium, and nitrogen 4 times more than in manure. Sapropel can be used unchanged or added to compost. Before being introduced into the soil, it must be ventilated, shoveled and frozen so that all substances unnecessary for plants are removed from it.

Sawdust, tree bark, bone meal

There are cheap and very useful organic fertilizers for improving soil quality. Their types and characteristics are as follows:

1. sawdust. They perfectly loosen the soil, improve its moisture capacity and breathability, but absorb nitrogen from it. The acidity of sawdust is quite high (pH about 3-4), therefore, before making them, they should be mixed with slaked lime and complex mineral or only nitrogen fertilizers. You can also wet them with animal urine or liquid mineral fertilizers. It is better to use rotted sawdust or add it to compost heaps.

2. Tree bark. These wastes are used to create compost. To do this, fresh bark is crushed, put in a pit, complex moisturizing is added. The fertilizer will be ready in about six months, during which the bark pit needs to be periodically moistened and its contents shoveled.

3. Bone meal. It well reduces the acidity of soils and is ideal for wetlands. Bone meal contains all the elements necessary for the growth and fruiting of plants. The only caveat is that you need to use it only fat-free (evaporated and dry).

siderates

The use of organic fertilizers can differ significantly from the methods indicated above. We are talking about green manure - plants sown on the field before planting the main crops or after harvesting. These include: sunflower, mustard, lupine, clover, legumes, oats, vetch, raspberry radish and other early crops that give a lot of green mass. The use of green manure is most effective on sandy and humus-poor soils, but can be practiced on any soil. According to the content of useful elements, green fertilizers are almost identical to manure. For example, lupine per 1 m 2 gives a green mass of about 4 kg. They contain an average of 18 g of nitrogen, 4.8 g of phosphorus, 6.8 g of potassium, 19 g of calcium, 4.8 g of magnesium. The technology for fertilizing the site with green manure is as follows: after harvesting the main crop, the seeds of the selected plant are sown on the field (some can simply be scattered across the field, others need to be planted in grooves), watered if necessary, and after waiting for the buds to appear, mow. The green mass can be plowed into the ground, put into compost pits, and fed to livestock. Some green manures (mustard, in addition to fertilizing the soil, help destroy bacteria in it, such as root rot, nematodes, late blight and others.

Nettle

If you need to fertilize a small garden, you can make excellent fertilizer from nettles. It is cut, put in a container and filled with water. Nettle fertilizer is being prepared for 3-5 days, during which the contents of the container must be mixed. To make the unpleasant smell disappear, you can add valerian rhizome, and to speed up the process, add bread, yeast, sourdough. The finished fertilizer must be filtered and used by adding 1 measured part of it to 10 measured parts of water.

Complex organic fertilizers

This is one of the best, most balanced types of fertilizers, suitable both for plant nutrition and for improving soil quality. For their production in industry, the biofermentation method is used, which consists in the oxidation of organic elements with atomic oxygen. In this case, a type of chemical energy is released, which is unusually useful for microorganisms that plants need. They produce complex organic fertilizers from manure, sawdust, manure, peat and similar natural products. The preparations "ZhTSKKU", "Piska", "KOUD", "GUMI-OMI", "Biogumus" are very popular. Basically, they are all concentrated and very easy to use.