Do-it-yourself outdoor toilet in a private house. How to make a toilet in the country with your own hands? Site selection and construction stages

It doesn't matter where you live - either permanently in your own house in the countryside, or seasonally in a country house, or in a house outside the city - the physical needs of a person remain unchanged for several thousand years.

Unless the degree of comfort and convenience has changed, where without it?

Reflections on this issue formed the basis of the "foundation" of the design proposed below for one of the most popular country and rural buildings -

It would seem an ordinary toilet ... However, the importance of this simple structure cannot be overestimated.

The principles of convenience and functionality are organically combined here with an attractive and aesthetic appearance of a wooden building, without losing structural strength and rigidity.

Nowadays, the modern woodworking industry produces a large number of various moldings, which gives many opportunities for such creativity.

In combination with inexpensive and quite affordable power tools these days, this can help you replicate a similar design without much effort and expense.

Tool

From a hand tool, you will need, first of all, measuring and marking - tape measure, square, pencil. Possibly chalk line, folding rule.

From the rest - a well-ground sharp hacksaw for wood, a pair of sharp chisels, a mallet or a hammer, a hand planer, a glass cutter, a miter box for a hacksaw ... (see fig. 2, 3, 4)

From a power tool it is desirable to have a jigsaw (see fig. 5) , electric drill (see fig. 7) , cordless screwdriver (see fig. 6) , the simplest milling machine (see fig. 8) , a set of milling cutters for wood, a set of drills for wood, the most common nozzles for self-tapping screws.

Necessary power tools

Necessary power tools

Necessary power tools

Selection of the necessary material for construction

When selecting lumber, several basic conditions must be observed:

• Planed pine with a section of 45 * 105 mm is suitable for the frame, 7-8 pieces 3 meters long each are enough.
• It is necessary to select as even and dry timber as possible, with as few large knots as possible, without blue and blackening.
• For the floor, it is desirable to select even and strong edged planed larch boards, at least 40 mm thick.
• The so-called imitation larch timber was used for wall cladding. The choice of larch is due to its resistance to various adverse atmospheric conditions. And, importantly, the decorative properties of larch in terms of beauty and expressiveness of texture are much superior to the wood of such popular conifers as pine and spruce.

For this purpose, the so-called block house is also suitable - wooden panels imitating a rounded log.

• Such moldings have various standard lengths. This must be taken into account at the stage of determining the dimensions of the structure, so that when facing there are as few unused trimmings as possible.
• The basis of the roof is edged planed pine boards with a section of 30 * 150 mm. Selection criteria - even, dry, without blue.
• For windows, it is necessary to select even and strong, without knots, planed pine bars with a section of 45 * 45 mm.
• When choosing metal fasteners, it is advisable to avoid the use of black self-tapping screws due to their insufficient strength. To fasten wooden parts, it is advisable to use yellow or white wood screws with a diameter of at least 4 mm.

Toilet frame assembly

It is most convenient to start assembling the frame with the manufacture of the lower harness. Four beams of the required length must be connected half a tree (see fig. 9) and twist with the so-called "capercaillie" - powerful self-tapping screws with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of 120-150 mm with turnkey hexagonal heads (see fig. 10) .

The cut lines are marked with a square, two parallel cuts are made along them with a hacksaw, and the waste is removed with a chisel.

The main condition for marking the bars of the lower trim is to maintain the required distance between the inner corners. So, in this case, the width of the front and rear walls is 120 cm, the width of the side walls is 90 cm. This is due to the standard length of wooden panels - 3 m. Such dimensions do not allow trimming when trimming, since two parts of 90 are cut from one panel cm and one 120 cm.

Chamfers 5-6 mm wide are milled at all corners.

As a result, we get a finished wooden frame-base (see fig. 11) , to which the frame racks will be attached in the future.

Racks are cut with a small allowance in length and laid out on a flat surface to collect the front wall (see fig. 12) . Length - 15 cm for attaching to the bottom harness and plus 185 cm in height, total - 200 cm.

The lower horizontal bar is screwed on temporarily - the height is measured from its lower side and it fixes the shape.

The upper inclined bars are a kind of rafters of a small roof. It is desirable to make the overhang of the roof as much as possible - in this case, about 30 cm (see fig. 13) . This is a necessary condition for protecting wooden walls from rainfall.

The length of the upper bars is selected experimentally, taking into account the width along the front wall (120 cm) and the angle of the roof - about 25 degrees (see fig. 14) .

The intersections of two bars are marked with a pencil to make markings for cutting corners. (see fig. 15) .

Using a square, marks are connected (see fig. 16) .

Hacksaw bars are cut according to the markup (see fig. 17) and the result is four identical parts (see fig. 18) .

Vertical racks are marked in a similar way. (see fig. 19) and cut to size (200 cm) and angle (see fig. 20) .

Figured cutouts are marked with a pencil at the ends of the inclined upper bars (see fig. 21) .

And with the help of a jigsaw, the excess is cut off according to the markings made (see fig. 22) .

Cuts are made in the same way on the remaining bars. (see fig. 23) .

The result is figured cutouts of the same shape on all four bars. (see fig. 24) .

On all sides of the upper bars and vertical racks, chamfers are milled with a depth of 5-6 mm (see fig. 25) .

The result is neat parts of the same length and the same shape. (see fig. 26 and 27) .

wood saw prices

wood saw

Assembly is carried out using self-tapping screws.

To do this, holes are pre-drilled in the screwed bars. Drill diameter - 0.5-1 mm larger than the thread diameter of the self-tapping screw itself (see fig. 28) .

With the help of a nozzle corresponding to the head of the self-tapping screw, we alternately fasten the two parts together (see fig. 29) .

The drilled hole allows the self-tapping screw to firmly position the two parts and, in addition, helps to avoid cracks in the twisted parts from splitting when screwing in. (see fig. 30) .

Holes are pre-drilled in the upper bars in the same way. (see fig. 31) .

For such a width of the screwed part, two self-tapping screws are sufficient for each attachment point (see fig. 32) .

Since a door will be installed in the front wall, it is necessary to make an opening for it. To do this, it is necessary to attach symmetrically two additional posts of the same section as the corner posts in the frame. In addition to forming a doorway, these racks will later allow you to fix decorative windows without additional effort.

The necessary distances are marked with a tape measure (approximately 160 mm from the inner edge of the corner posts) and two additional posts are screwed (see fig. 33) .

The protruding upper parts are cut with a hacksaw in place (see fig. 34) .

For reliability, the attachment point of the upper bars can be strengthened by screwing an additional overlay from the scraps of the timber (see fig. 35) .

To make the back wall the same size as the front wall, use the assembled wall as a template. Having fixed the frame parts on the front wall with clamps, the back wall is assembled in the same dimensions (see fig. 36) .

After pre-assembly of the main parts, they can be fastened into a single frame. Temporary bottom bars serve as limiters, with the help of which all racks in the frame will have the same height (see fig. 37) . The lower trim is pre-leveled so that there are no distortions later.

Two holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled in the racks with an electric drill. (see fig. 38) . Holes with a diameter of 6 mm are drilled in the strapping.

After drilling, the racks are screwed to the bottom trim with capercaillie screws with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of 100 mm (see fig. 39) .

To maintain the same distance between the two walls in the upper part, they are temporarily fastened with strips of the same length.

On this, the assembly of the frame - the "skeleton" of the entire structure - is completed (see fig. 40) .

Toilet wall and floor cladding

For flooring, a larch edged board is used. To exclude cracks from shrinkage of the boards, you need to use either ready-made tongue-and-groove boards, or cut grooves in edged boards and insert the slats into the joints of the boards.

It is most convenient to mount the boards parallel to the side walls - it is easier to make cutouts for the racks. The distance between the outer contours of the bottom trim is the required length of the boards (see fig. 41) .

Prices for electric jigsaws

jigsaws

To minimize trimming, it is desirable to select such a standard length so that one board ends without a trace. Marking with a tape measure and a square will contribute to smooth edges, which is important (see fig. 42) .

All marked boards are cut with a hacksaw for wood (see fig. 43) .

After that, using a square, it is necessary to carefully mark the places of the cutouts in the boards for the racks. (see fig. 44) .

To do this, the board is applied close to the posts, and lines are drawn according to the dimensions of the post, the depth of the cutouts corresponds to the distance at which the board does not reach the edge.

Marked parts to be deleted are marked with hatching (see fig. 45) .

Exactly along the line, the board is carefully cut with a hacksaw, which should be held perpendicular to the cut line (see fig. 46) .

After that, with light blows of the chisel, waste is removed (see fig. 47) .

Cutouts for the rest of the racks are made in the same way. (see fig. 48) .

On the upper end parts of all boards and in places of cutouts, chamfers are removed with a milling machine.

In the laid boards, holes are marked and drilled for fastening at the same distance from the edge of the boards (see fig. 49) .

With self-tapping screws on wood, the boards are screwed tightly and without gaps to the bars of the lower trim (see fig. 50) .

Thus, a smooth and neat, without cracks, wooden floor is obtained. (see fig. 51) .

Sheathing the frame is a simple matter, but requires similar accuracy.

Carefully marked in length with a tape measure (see fig. 52) .

And a square (see fig. 53) .

After marking, the panels are cut into parts of the required length. (see fig. 54) .

As a result, panels are obtained in two sizes - short for sewing the side walls and long for sewing the back wall. (see fig. 55) .

Since this board has a working width of 140 mm, it is necessary to fasten each side with two self-tapping screws, as close as possible to the edge of the board - about 20-25 mm. This will keep the wood panels from warping to some extent.

To prevent cracking of the panels from screwed self-tapping screws and for tightness of the connection, all parts are pre-drilled according to the marking before fastening (see fig. 56) .To do this, one marked part is superimposed on the second and holes are drilled in all panels according to this template.

The panels prepared in this way are screwed to the frame posts with wood screws, about 50 mm long. (see fig. 57) .

If the crest of the panel fits too tightly into the reciprocal groove (or the panel is slightly curved), then it is necessary to carefully beat the panel on top with a wooden or rubber mallet, placing the same piece under the mallet so as not to split the panel (see fig. 58) .

In this way, all panels are attached to the top of the frame, where it may be necessary to cut the last panels so that they do not protrude above the roof plane (see fig. 59) .

Roofing the toilet

Before laying the roofing material, edged boards are screwed tightly onto both slopes. (see fig. 60 and 61) .

If the side overhangs of the roof were formed by moving the rafters 30 cm from the side walls, then the roof overhangs in front and behind are formed by the length of the boards - for this you need to add the rear overhang (about 20 cm) and the front overhang (about 30 cm) to the width of the side walls. Adding three sizes together, you get the required length of the boards.

In this case, a metal tile is used as a roofing. Nowadays, there are many options for roofing of various types and colors on the market, so the possibilities of choice are practically unlimited.

Attaches to boards with roofing screws (see fig. 62) .

After that, it remains to close the front and rear end parts with neat boards, which are screwed with self-tapping screws (see fig. 63) .

We make windows in the toilet

Windows are used not only as a decoration, as they largely form the appearance of the entire wooden structure. To some extent, they play a purely practical role, as they are a translucent structure, which to some extent gives a kind of inner comfort.

In order to make such windows, you will need several bars with a section of 45 * 45 mm and a length of __ mm (see fig. 64) .

The first step is to cut a quarter in each bar. To do this, you need to set the overhang of the saw blade on a circular machine to 20 mm (see fig. 65) .

After that, the unnecessary part of the bars is carefully cut out. (see fig. 66) .

The bars prepared in this way are laid out on a flat surface and the internal dimensions of each window are marked - the quarter formed is necessary in order to insert the window into the opening between the uprights (see fig. 67) .

The parts are fastened together with self-tapping screws, so it is imperative to drill the screwed parts (see fig. 69) .

Installing a chamfering cutter in a milling machine (see fig. 70) .

And we chamfer 7-8 mm wide on all longitudinal and transverse ribs (see fig. 71) .

Milling results in fine details (see fig. 72) .

The resulting parts are fastened with self-tapping screws into the frame (see fig. 73) .

The protruding corners on the inside of the transverse bars are cut with a hacksaw (see fig. 74) .

Waste is cut and cleaned with a chisel (see fig. 75) .

cutting board prices

edged board

This part of the frame is inserted into the opening (see fig. 76) .

To install glass, you need to cut a groove inside along the entire perimeter of the frame. For this, a disk cutter is installed in a milling machine. (see fig. 77) .

And for several passes, an internal groove is milled with a width of 1-2 mm more than the thickness of the glass. The standard thickness of embossed glass is 4 mm. Groove depth - 10 mm (see fig. 78) .

From a thinner bar, you need to make jumpers that will be inserted between the glasses. They are chamfered in the same way and grooves for glass are milled on both sides. It is convenient to make such short parts from one long workpiece - that is, first chamfer and cut grooves along the long sides, then cut off the required number of parts and chamfer the end parts (see fig. 79) .

After preparing the frames, glass is cut out (see fig. 80) . Depending on the initial sketch, it is worth calculating their number immediately. There is now a wide variety of such glass on the building markets, which can be cut to size on site. A more budget option is to use old glass from a door or ordinary window glass, which is matted (sanded) on one side with a vibration grinder to make it opaque.

After preparing the glass, the frames are assembled (see fig. 81) .

To do this, one of the crossbars is unscrewed and glass and wooden lintels are inserted alternately into the groove.

After that, the lower cross member is screwed into place. (see fig. 82) .

The glass groove was intentionally made 1-2 mm larger than the thickness of the glass in order to fill the now formed gap with a transparent silicone sealant (see fig. 83) .

The plastic nose of the tube is cut off to obtain a roller 3-4 mm thick.

After filling the gaps, the sealant is carefully leveled (see fig. 84) . It is advisable to wait a few hours for the sealant to dry.

By filling the gaps, rainwater will not get into the frames and, in addition, the glass will be firmly fixed from vibrations.

The frames are fixed in the openings prepared for them with self-tapping screws. To do this, holes are drilled from the inside of the racks, through which self-tapping screws are screwed. (see fig. 85) .

Beforehand, short trimmings of wooden panels are screwed in the upper and lower parts of the openings.

We make a door to the country toilet

The door is assembled from the same wooden panels, only in a vertical position.

To do this, the dimensions of the opening are measured and the door leaf of the required width and length is typed. If the canvas is wider than the opening, then it is cut symmetrically to the desired size - so that the end panels are the same width.

To the width of the opening, add 2 cm to the right and left - since the door will overlap the racks.

The upper part is cut at the same angle as the upper bars of the frame.

After trimming to size, chamfers are milled around the perimeter (see fig. 86) .

The panels are fastened to each other with the help of crossbars, which are cut from the scraps of the panels. Due to the width of the panels, you can do without a jib - the rigidity of the canvas will be achieved by self-tapping screws and applying silicone sealant before screwing the crossbars (see fig. 87) .

Be sure to pre-drill holes in the cross members.

It is advisable to choose canopies with a long arm and screw them into those places where the crossbars are screwed (see fig. 88) .

To set a gap of 4-5 mm between the floor and the door, just put a chisel under the door (see fig. 89) .

One of the important elements - door handles - are made from scraps of curved tree branches. (see fig. 90) . Handles are attached to the door with screws.

So that the hats from the self-tapping screws are not visible from the outside, you must first fasten the inner handle, and then, closing the hats of the self-tapping screws with the handle, the outer one.

The corners of the entire structure are covered with flashings 70-80 mm wide and 12-15 mm thick. They are attached to self-tapping screws. (see fig. 92) .

Toilet painting

The final appearance of the entire wooden structure is determined by painting. It is desirable to choose a coating that is weatherproof, designed for outdoor use. (see fig. 93) .

Paint or impregnation is applied with a brush in one or two layers. To more clearly highlight the structure of wood, it is necessary to carefully rub the material with a brush over the entire surface to be painted. (see fig. 94 .)

Ready country toilet - photo

If a person decides to purchase a suburban area for relaxing with friends or family, the question of how to make a toilet in the country will arise in the first place. A house for the administration of natural physiological needs is an obligatory attribute not only of any dwelling, but also of the backyard territory, where you will have to stay for more than one hour. It is quite logical that each owner will want to start and complete the construction of the toilet that everyone needs as soon as possible. And although at first glance it seems that this is a rather simple matter, you should not rush. You should carefully study the summer cottage area and decide on the choice of a place for a toilet house, taking into account a number of sanitary requirements. And another important point is the choice of the type of restroom, because there are several of them. What kind of toilet is better to build on the territory of a summer cottage?

How to choose the right place for the yard toilet?

Convenient and comfortable for residents of the cottage is the placement of the toilet inside the house. It's warm and dry here. No need to go outside at night or on a rainy day. But such a closet requires a long time for construction and is more expensive in terms of costs. If a person works in the beds, it is preferable to run to the yard toilet, not thinking about the fact that you can stain the floor in the dwelling with earth. Therefore, at first it will be easier and more correct to build a toilet on the street. Where should it be placed on the site? To do everything right, you should take into account the sanitary and hygienic requirements for the arrangement of street closets. This is especially true of latrines with cesspools.

Since the smell is the most unpleasant in them, it is usually customary to place latrines not in the immediate vicinity of the walls of a residential building, but at a distance of 8-10 m from them. Do not plant trees and shrubs near the toilet. The distance between them should be several meters. If there is a well in the country house, then a distance of 50 m should be observed between it and the latrine. If the country house does not stand on the outskirts, but is surrounded by neighbors' plots, you need to think about their comfort. You can’t build a yard closet right in front of their house, even if the plots are separated by a fence (the distance from the fence should be at least 1 m). It is better to place the closet so that the neighbors do not smell from it and do not see it directly in front of them. It is necessary to conduct observations of the wind, to establish in which direction it blows most often. And if there are no buildings nearby, you can arrange a latrine in this place.

An important circumstance is the relief of the suburban area and the presence of groundwater underground. If the suburban area has a slope, then the toilet should be located in a lowland so that the source of water intake is higher than it. In this case, dirty drains will not fall into clean water. It is good when groundwater flows at a depth of 2.5 m, i.e., far enough from the surface of the earth. This means that you can build a latrine with a cesspool on your site. And if the depth of the groundwater level is less than 2 m, types of toilets with containers for collecting sewage are suitable. Otherwise, the soil and water may become contaminated with harmful decay products.

The main types of yard latrines

Having decided on the place of the future toilet, it is worth thinking about its design. Currently, there are several types of latrines that are suitable for giving:

• dry closet;
• powder closet;
• peat latrine;
• chemical toilet;
• latrine with a cesspool.

All of the above water closets, except for the last one, should preferably be installed in areas with groundwater close to the surface of the earth. A latrine with a cesspool is equipped only with a deep flow of groundwater. What are these toilet houses?

The simplest solution for a summer residence will be a dry closet. This is a booth that you can buy and install on your site without wasting time building. Inside the cabin there is a two-section container for collecting sewage. Special faeces splitters are poured here. They recycle them and eliminate the bad smell. After 7-8 days after the start of using the dry closet, it will need to be cleaned of sewage, draining them either into other containers or into the soil. This toilet is easy to maintain. But the disadvantage of such a restroom is its cost for some zealous owners.

A chemical water closet is almost no different from a dry closet. The difference lies only in the antiseptics poured into the tank. Chemical reagents that destroy sewage are harmful to the environment; they cannot fertilize the soil on the site. Therefore, such latrines are better suited for cities. They can be seen at construction sites or mass celebrations.

Powder closet - a toilet structure without a cesspool. It is replaced by any volumetric container (barrel, tank) installed under the toilet seat. All impurities entering the container are immediately sprinkled with sawdust, peat or ash, as if powdered on top to eliminate an unpleasant odor. Hence the name of the closet. When the tank is filled to the top, it is emptied and the contents are used as fertilizer.

A variant of the powder closet is a peat toilet. Dry peat is poured into the drain tank, which enters the tank under the toilet seat and sprinkles sewage.

The most familiar to everyone, but labor-intensive in construction, is considered a restroom with a cesspool. A toilet house is installed above the pit. After filling the pit, the sewage is either removed manually, or sewage trucks are called to help.

How to build a house support for a restroom?

Any outbuilding begins with a drawing. The owner needs to decide on the size of the future closet before purchasing building material. The following sizes of a country toilet are common:

• height - 2 m;
• side width of 1.5 m;
• depth 1-1.2 m.

But you can adjust them as you wish: make the structure taller, more spacious.

To prevent the restroom from being blown away by the wind, it is necessary to provide support for it under the frame. As for the foundation, it is not necessary for a small building. There are several ways to build supports. In the first case, you can make a stable base of bricks or blocks. To do this, at the site of the future toilet, the soil is removed to a depth of 30 cm, then the earth is carefully tamped. The area around the perimeter is laid out with blocks or bricks. A toilet house is installed on top of the support. In the future, it can be easily moved to another location.

In the second case, asbestos pipes with wooden beams can be used as supports. Pipes with a diameter of at least 15 cm and a length of 100 cm will be stable and reliable. First, recesses of 50-80 cm are dug along the perimeter of the base in each of its 4 corners. Asbestos pipes are installed vertically in them, inside of which concrete mortar is poured 1/3. Then, wooden bars with a length of 2.3 m and a diameter of 5x5 cm are inserted into such supports. They will serve as vertical parts of the frame of the future toilet. The tree will be firmly fixed in the concrete solution, only when installing it is necessary to monitor the evenness of the bars so that they are strictly vertical. The rear bars should be 10-15 cm shorter than the front ones, since the roof of the house is usually sloping.

Fabrication of the frame of the closet and its sheathing

By installing vertical support bars and adjusting their height, you can tie the frame. The top screed is made at the level of the roof of the structure. Horizontal slats are nailed around the perimeter of all sides of the house. In front and behind, they should protrude 30 cm beyond the boundaries of the body. Since the roof is made with a small visor and drains rainwater from the restroom so that it does not flow directly onto the wall. The lower screed is performed at the level of the seat or toilet seat at a height of 35-40 cm from the floor of the restroom. The front wall is not touched, because there will be a door. To make the case even stronger, diagonal braces are stuffed on its side and rear walls. 2 more vertical supports are installed on the front wall of the toilet, their height is 190 cm. A horizontal jumper is nailed along their upper line. The door will be inserted into this frame.

Now you should sheathe the structure with the selected material: wood or metal profiles. It is warmer and more comfortable to be inside a wooden toilet. It is better to take boards 1.5-2 cm thick for it. Measure the material in height and nail it vertically to the frame from 3 sides. Be sure to make sure that the boards fit snugly against each other, and there are no gaps between them. From the bottom on the back wall it will be necessary to make a small door from the same boards. Through it, a container filled with sewage will be delivered. To make this process easy, the door is made to the height of the toilet seat and the width of the back wall of the restroom. Hinges are used to fasten the door. The roof of the toilet house can be either slate or wood. To extend the life of a wooden roof, it is covered with roofing material on top.

Arrangement of the toilet seat and door in the restroom

After all 3 walls of the closet are ready, you can start making the door and attaching it to the body of the structure. The dimensions of the door (width, height) must match the opening prepared for it. The boards are knocked together. 2 loops are screwed onto the toilet body and the door leaf with screws, and the door is hung on the wall. Screw the handle inside and out. Another important element of the door is the latch. It is attached to the door from 2 sides. You can close the door with an ordinary hook, a steel latch or a latch - this is already a personal choice for everyone. In order for the restroom to be light, it is advisable to make a small window above the door and glaze it. The window can also be cut out on the side wall of the toilet.

Now it remains to make the most necessary part of the toilet - the toilet seat. As mentioned above, its height is usually no more than 40 cm. Too high a toilet seat is inconvenient, especially for children. The frame of the toilet seat has a width of 50 cm. It, like the walls of the restroom, is sheathed with boards and a hole is cut out in the top center for natural necessities. It shouldn't be too big or small. A container for sewage with a volume of 30-40 liters is placed under the finished toilet seat. The rest of the floor is covered with boards. The wooden toilet house needs to be painted or varnished. When the coating dries, the toilet is completed with the finishing touches. A container for sawdust or peat and a holder (bracket) for toilet paper are hung on the wall, and an urn is placed on the floor. Powder closet is ready!

How to make a cesspool?

Some owners prefer the good old pit latrines. How to equip such a restroom? First you need to dig the hole itself with a depth of 150 cm. The slope is made towards the back wall of the future closet. Then all the walls and bottom of the pit are tightly packed with a layer of clay (20-25 cm), you can lay them out with bricks. The toilet house, which is being built, like the powder closet, will be located above the front third of the pit. The base for the restroom is made of wooden beams. Boards are laid over the pit (outside the closet) and upholstered from below with roofing material. A hole is cut in the flooring and the cover is hung on hinges. This will be the hatch. From the pit upwards parallel to the back wall of the toilet, a ventilation pipe must be brought out. Its lower edge should fall 20 cm below the level of the toilet floor, and the upper edge should extend 80 cm above the roof of the closet. A wooden house is installed next to the pipe above the pit and the pipe is fixed to its back wall with clamps. Further, a concrete blind area (1 m wide) is poured around the outdoor toilet for a summer residence. It will not allow rainwater to enter the cesspool.

Which restroom to build on a suburban area, each owner will decide on his own, but any closet will take a little time and effort. There are pros and cons to building a country toilet with your own hands. But when the design is ready, the person will be proud that he made it himself.

No one will argue that such a primitive building as a country toilet is one of the main structures, the construction of which is started in the first place. Agree that in a suburban area you can do without a country house, gazebo or fence, but without a toilet in the country - no way. A self-built country toilet will provide minimal comfort, which will allow you to fully relax and work.

Before starting excavation work, it is necessary to study the sanitary and hygienic requirements and, in accordance with them, choose the installation site.

Features of country toilets

Installing a toilet in the country is not difficult, while it is quite possible to do it yourself without resorting to outside help. It is important to take into account some features of such construction:

• Mandatory compliance of the installation site with sanitary and hygienic requirements presented to cesspools;
• It is impossible to allow a do-it-yourself country toilet to create inconvenience to neighbors ;
• At the start of construction, it must be a method of emptying the cesspool is provided ;
• The choice of toilet design directly depends on the water horizon of the site. With a low placement of groundwater, the cesspool should only be of a sealed type .

Following our instructions, you will not only be able to properly build a country toilet with your own hands, but also save yourself from the problems associated with its operation.

Varieties of toilets for summer cottages

In the country, you can build one of several designs of toilets. The selection criteria can be both the height of the water horizon and the frequency of use of the closet, as well as the amount of financial costs that are planned for its construction and maintenance.

All existing outdoor latrines can be classified according to the way waste is disposed of. Consider some of the most popular designs.

Toilets with cesspools for summer cottages

This is perhaps one of the most popular designs in rural courtyards and summer cottages. It is not difficult to build a cesspool-type toilet with your own hands in the country, because the usual deep pit serves as a sewer, in which liquid residues evaporate or soak into the ground.

The depth of the pit directly affects the frequency of its cleaning, so it is not often necessary to rake out the garbage. Most often, the hole is simply covered with soil, digging a new one next to it. An elevated structure can be anything - you can build a country toilet with your own hands from boards, bricks, slate sheets or metal profiles. The main thing is that the necessary strength of the frame is provided and ventilation is present.

1. Wooden toilet. The choice of such a design is justified both by the simplicity of construction and its low cost. Agree, you can build a wooden toilet with your own hands with minimal skills. A wooden structure is often stylized as a fabulous house, having received not only a functional, but also an aesthetic structure. Often, not boards, but clapboards are used for sheathing the frame. Such a do-it-yourself country toilet also looks stylish, as evidenced by the numerous photos posted on the network. The most important advantage of a wooden building is that when the hole is filled, it is dug in another place, and the house is transferred.

1. Toilet from metal profile sheets. There are two ways to install such a structure. In the first, a wooden frame is used, and in the second, a base welded from shaped metal pipes. Then the base is sheathed with slate sheets using self-tapping screws or rivets. It is not difficult to build a toilet from profile sheets with your own hands, but this design gets very hot in the summer in the country. It is best to install a metal closet in a permanently shaded place and sheathe it from the inside with polystyrene foam sheets.

1. Brick toilet. Before you build a brick toilet in the country with your own hands, inspect the site well, study existing projects, watch the video. It will not be possible to transfer such a structure to a new place, so it is necessary to provide a way to clean the cesspool. When constructing a brick building, do not forget about the need to install a concrete floor.

play closet

This type of toilet resembles the design described above. Its feature is the device of the cesspool. Most often her walls and bottom are sealed so that during filling it was possible to pump out waste with a sewage machine. Equipping this toilet in the country with their own hands, they dig elongated pit, for the possibility of unobstructed installation of the vacuum hoses. A huge disadvantage of backlash closets is the impossibility of cleaning them in the winter. therefore, if necessary, install a pit heating system.

Powder closet

This toilet has a small (maximum 20 litres) waste container installed under the high chair. After coping with natural needs, the waste is covered with ash, sawdust or peat. To do this, a box with these bulk materials is installed in the room. If you are interested in the question of how to make a toilet in the country, remember the disadvantages of powder closets: pouring the contents of a sewer tank into a compost pit with your own hands is not the most pleasant procedure. We will not be silent about the huge advantage of such a closet - with proper ventilation, it can be placed even in a country house.

Peat toilet for a summer residence

The peat toilet is a more advanced powder-closet design. The peculiarity of the device is that there is no need for an additional box with peat - it is poured directly inside. Having visited the peat toilet, the waste is “powdered”, and after filling the sewer tank, it is taken out and taken out.

Choosing the location of the toilet

To build a toilet in the country with your own hands will help our recommendations regarding the choice of a place for future construction:

• If you are planning a building equipped with a cesspool, then be sure to consider the need for an access road for a sewage truck;
• The distance from the toilet to the place of water intake should not exceed the sanitary norm of 25 meters, the distance to nearby buildings should be more than 5 meters, and to the border of the site - 1 meter.
• Be sure to study the wind rose map and consider their direction.
• The door of the toilet should open in the direction opposite to the nearest boundary of the site.

In addition, do not install the toilet in very remote places and do not obstruct access routes. Provide free access to the facility.

We build a country toilet of the Birdhouse type with our own hands

The "birdhouse" is a wooden one, lined with any available material, with a single or gable roof. Such a toilet is installed in combination with a cesspool. By equipping a country toilet of this type with your own hands, you can use ready-made drawings or create an individual project.

As a typical project, you can take the following dimensions for the Birdhouse toilet with a pitched roof:

1. rear wall height - 2 m,
2. front - 2.30 m
3. with a width of at least 1 m.

The dimensions of the base are not less than 1x1m. Installing a wooden toilet with your own hands is a must control of horizontal and vertical surfaces using the building level.

So, we are building the Birdhouse toilet. For work you will need :

• Concrete border 2 m long - 2 pcs. or sand-cement blocks - 4 pcs.
• Ruberoid - 2 m2.
• Sand.
• Edged board: 6000x100x50mm - 3 pcs., 6000x100x50mm - 1 pc., 6000x90x32mm - 3 pcs.
• Lining 3000x87mm - 40 pcs.
• Wooden beam 6000x50x50 - 1 pc.
• Sheet steel profile galvanized 1520x2000x0.4mm - 1 pc.
• Door block 900x2000mm
• Door hinges, latch, handle, nails, self-tapping screws.
• Paint or varnish.

Let's describe toilet building process in the country with their own hands in stages:

1. Digging a cesspool not less than 1x1x2 m in size. Remember that the dimensions of the toilet that you plan to install in the country with your own hands are predetermined by the dimensions of the pit. At the bottom of the pit we pour a layer of broken brick or rubble.

1. As a foundation for a house we install a concrete curb at a distance of no more than 20 cm from the edges of the pit as a ceiling. To do this, we dig it in so that the height of the concrete base above the ground is no more than 10-15 cm. Instead of a curb, you can dig four blocks of sand-cement mortar at the corners of the cesspool, on which we subsequently install the frame.

1. Laying on a concrete curb roofing material in 3-4 layers as a moisture insulator.
2. Building a wooden frame and sheathe it with boards, lining, etc. The floor of the toilet must be laid with a board with a thickness of at least 40mm. It is better to use hardwoods - oak, beech, larch and others.

1. Cutting a hole in the floor up to 30 cm across. The shape of the "point" can be arbitrary: oval, heart, rhombus, circle, etc.

1. We install the door and cut out a window of any shape in it for the passage of light.
2. The roof of the house is covered with roofing material, asbestos-cement or profiled steel sheet.

1. We paint the structure oil paint or varnish.

When equipping wooden country toilets with your own hands, do not forget to install the simplest ventilation. Its purpose is to divert air from the pit into the atmosphere. To do this, you can take any pipe with a diameter of at least 100 mm. Then, a hole of the required diameter is cut in the roof and podium of the toilet and the pipe is installed at a height of at least 20 cm above the roof. All places where the hood passes are sealed, and a deflector is installed at its end, which will create the necessary traction.

From the inside, the country toilet "Birdhouse" can be done with your own hands sheathe with foam, and in order to beautifully veneer it with suitable material, just watch a video from the network and use ready-made ideas.

We build a toilet of the "Hut" type with our own hands

The "Hut" type toilet, although more difficult to manufacture, looks much more spectacular than the "Birdhouse".

Some craftsmen stylize a country toilet like a fairy-tale house, creating real masterpieces with their own hands. Photos of such buildings from the network amaze the imagination with their thoughtfulness and craftsmanship. Well? Are we building such an original toilet in the country? Then we get down to business and begin to dig a cesspool. Its dimensions can be taken from the previous project. At the corners of the pit, a recess is dug in the ground for the installation of concrete blocks. To control the squareness, not only the distance between the blocks is measured. The diagonals of the base should also be the same.

When installing the foundation, they control the horizontal by placing an even rail on two adjacent blocks, and a building level on top. The height of the concrete base should be no more than 15 cm above the surface of the site.

In order not to miss important little things, install a country toilet with your own hands step by step :

1. Lay any moisture insulator on an impromptu foundation. The roofing material, laid in 2-3 layers, copes well with this function.

1. A frame is assembled from a 50x50mm timber bases measuring 1x1m and nail it with edged boards. On top of this "deck" a floorboard is arranged.

1. Cutting a technological hole in the bottom. You can not be limited to a circle and come up with an interesting shape of a “point”.

1. We cover the wooden base with an antiseptic from all sides. If, when installing a toilet in the country with your own hands, you are not sure of the correctness of your actions, study the instructions in which all processes are described in stages.
2. Using a sketch or drawing, assemble the back and front parts.

1. Sew both parts"Hut" from the inside clapboard.

1. Install the back and front walls on the floor and fasten them with scraps of boards.
2. Nail the batten boards. At the end of the work, they also need to be sheathed.
3. Take boards with a length of at least 1800 mm and, resting them on the back and front of the "Hut", pin them to the rails. Thus, we get the roof of the house.

1. Roofing on our built in the country, you can install a toilet with your own hands, having studied photos of similar structures or making your imagination work. In principle, any material will do, but do we really need banality when we create a house from a fairy tale?
2. Installing a fad, you can decorate it with a suitable figurine.
3. We hang doors, having previously provided them with a handle and a hook. From the outside we nail a spinner of arbitrary shape.

1. Painting the toilet house oil paint or varnish.

When installing a toilet in the country with your own hands, turn on your imagination or watch a video showing a gallery of toilet houses, do not be afraid to experiment. Only in this case you will get an elegant, exclusive structure.

Features of installing a peat toilet

The use of a peat substrate for sprinkling waste is justified for several reasons.

• Firstly, peat perfectly absorbs unpleasant odors.
• Secondly, the increased hygroscopicity of the substrate contributes to increased liquid absorption, which ultimately contributes to an increase in the frequency of cleaning the toilet.
• Thirdly, after direct application, the mixture is used as a fertilizer, since peat is initially rich in bacteria that convert organic waste into compost.

A factory-made peat toilet does not require connection to the electrical network, water supply and sewerage, so it is a truly autonomous design for a summer residence.

The operation of such a toilet is based on the separation of waste products into solid and liquid fractions. If frequent use of the device is expected, then the removal of the purified liquid fraction is provided by drainage or a special hose. The solid fraction is located in the lower container and, if necessary, can be easily removed, since the container is easily removed and has carrying handles.

The advantage of factory designs is also ease of maintenance - it is enough to remove waste from the storage tank, rinse the container and add the substrate.

The easiest way is to buy a ready-made device. For those who want to save money, we will tell you how to make a toilet in the country with your own hands. To do this, you will need several boards, a sheet of plywood, nails and screws, as well as a toilet seat. So, we describe step by step, how to build a peat-type country toilet with your own hands :

1. We collect the box, connecting four boards with screws. We make a cutout in the front of the structure for ease of installation of the container.

1. We sew the top side of the box with plywood sheet, after cutting a hole in it for a bucket.
2. We fasten the legs to the corners of the box in such a way that you can easily replace the waste container.

1. We install the structure on the legs and attach a seat to the functional hole (it can be factory made of plastic or wooden).
2. Install a plastic bucket under the hole with a layer of peat previously poured to the bottom up to 5 cm.

1. If you plan to place a peat toilet in open space, then build a house, for example, the same "Hut".

We specifically do not give the dimensions of the toilet, which is designed for do-it-yourself installation in the country. It is so simple that even a schoolboy can repeat the design. Let me just give a few recommendations :

• Stock up on several buckets with lids. This contributes to the convenience of using the toilet.
• Empty the bucket when the waste is no more than a third full.
• Add composting bioaccelerators to peat.
• Use factory filler.
• Dump the removed waste into a compost heap and after the required time you can use it as fertilizer for garden crops.

We hope that our instructions, which describe step by step how to install a country toilet with your own hands, will help you solve one of the primary tasks that arise when developing a suburban area.

The only building that you cannot do without in the garden is the toilet. It is very convenient when it is located inside the house, although this imposes restrictions on the number and content of outdoor work.

In order not to bring dirt into the house, doing land or construction work, they equip a separate toilet, which is used mainly in the warm season. However, year-round use is also possible, as is often the case, for example, in rural areas. In this case, additional insulation may be needed.

What should be the toilet?

The existing schemes of country closets are very diverse. During their construction, structures made of wood, metal, concrete, brick or plastic are used, which have different functionality and speed of construction. The most aesthetic are wooden toilets, the assembly of which is slower than metal-plastic, but faster than brick and concrete structures.

We can conditionally distinguish the following types of latrines:

• according to the type of sewage collector - with or without a hermetic cesspool. An alternative to the pit are "powder closets", in which feces are collected in a bucket or deeper container and crushed with sawdust or peat. In landscaped summer cottages, dry closets can be installed, although they are not yet widely distributed;
• by type of seat - the most comfortable toilets are equipped with a toilet, while in simpler designs a platform with a seat is built or a hole is simply made in the floor;

• according to the level of amenities - insulated or heated, with a dressing room, combined with a shower, etc. Warm toilets are very practical when visiting a summer house in the cold season. In the dressing room you can undress, which is important with a large amount of clothes during the autumn-winter work.

When arranging and planning a toilet, you should pay attention to the following factors:

• environmental safety - the building should not violate sanitary standards;
• structural strength - the toilet must be strong enough. In worn-out structures, it is not uncommon for people to fall into a cesspool;
• convenience - at the stage of building a summer cottage, you can be content with a toilet without a toilet bowl, while at a capital cottage it is better to equip a more comfortable place.

A wooden toilet differs from its brick and concrete counterparts in its small mass and relative simplicity of design. There are capital and portable toilets made of wood. Portable structures are convenient for quickly changing the installation site, so as not to call for sewers to pump out the cesspool.

On capital summer cottages, this principle is not suitable - the toilet should be aesthetic, convenient and practical. Consider the main stages of the construction of a wooden toilet.

We choose a toilet drawing and determine the dimensions

Since the toilet will not be subjected to heavy loads, it should not be made too massive and durable. The building should only withstand gusts of strong winds, rain and winter precipitation. General drawings and diagrams of a wooden restroom are shown in the figures. You can find a significant number of sizes and shapes of wooden toilets on the net, but you should not follow them unconditionally. Most of the drawings are designed for the average person, therefore, during construction, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the people who will use the restroom.

The dimensions of the classic wooden toilet are small. The optimal dimensions are: 2.2 × 1 × 1.5 m (height × width × depth). Such a toilet is easily ventilated and gains heat when used in cold weather. Windows are left above the door or on the sides of the walls for lighting, and lamps are mounted for night visits from inside and outside.

If the dimensions of the owners of the cottage are large, then the width and depth of the toilet can be increased. The height of 2.2 m to the ceiling is most comfortable in natural and weak artificial lighting. The top of the roof is even higher, and the specified height only limits the interior space.

Location selection

The wind rose, the site plan and the location of other buildings will help determine the optimal location of the closet. For moral and ethical reasons, the toilet should not open in the direction of nearby neighbors (unless there is a solid fence or green hedge) and annoy smells when the wind direction changes.

Sanitary and hygienic standards allow you to put a toilet under the following conditions:

• the distance to capital buildings is at least 12 m, and to the shower (saunas, baths) - at least 8 m. The toilet can be combined in a shower cabin if wastewater is discharged into a separate pit;
• distance to pens with animals - 4 m or more, and to the fence - at least 1 m;
• the depth of groundwater must exceed 2.5 m (for a pit latrine). The location of the “powder-closet” and toilets with sealed barrels for sewage is not affected by the depth of groundwater.

The distance from water sources to the toilet should be at least 25 m. In most summer cottages, this requirement is practically impossible, so a well or well is located at the maximum distance up the slope. The toilet is equipped in a lowland so that it does not flood in a flood or during heavy rains.

When planning a toilet, it is imperative to provide for the possibility of periodically pumping out the cesspool. The length of a standard hose for pumping sewage is 7 m, of which 2-4 m falls on the pit. Therefore, the sewer truck must have access to the toilet at a distance of 3-5 m.

What will be required for construction?

Any wood material is suitable for building a toilet. Since one of the reasons for the use of wood is the desire to save money, expensive species should be used only for artistic purposes. A lining or block house will help to increase the aesthetics of the restroom. The use of ordinary tongue-and-groove boards will simplify their joining together and increase the final strength of the structure.

Mineral wool is suitable as a heater for walls, which fills two-layer piers. This material does not absorb odors well, and is also not subject to rotting and burning. Foamed heat-insulating materials are used somewhat less frequently.

Particular attention should be paid to wood finishing. If the building will be long-term, its processing should include:

• antiseptic. Since sewage is an attractive breeding ground for microorganisms and a source of high air humidity, it is desirable to combine antiseptics with waterproofing. The optimal materials for covering the lower part of the foundation wood are bituminous mastics, which give the tree stability and durability;
• treatment with varnish or paint to reduce exposure to moisture and slow down the aging process of wood under the action of atmospheric oxygen.

The size of the pit pit depends on the anticipated use of the toilet. For most families, a 1 m 3 pit will suffice, which needs to be cleaned every 3-4 years.

To make the use of the toilet more comfortable and increase the period of its effective operation, ventilation of the cesspool and the room itself should be provided. This is usually done using separate ventilation pipes, the upper cut of which should be 40-60 cm from the roof surface.

The optimal design of the toilet bowl installed in the country toilet should not have a bend (“knee”) for a water seal. Water is not supplied to country toilets, so the toilet will be more convenient if it is equipped with one straight guide for sewage. It is better to choose an inexpensive toilet seat so that it would not be a pity to throw it away at the end of the summer season. For winter visits to the country house, a removable insulated seat can be provided.

How not to miss the important - the main stages and materials for construction

The general stages of construction are cutting out the material and the phased assembly of the finished structure. Cutting can be carried out in advance and during the installation of wooden units. For the most convenient and fast work you will need:

• drill and drills;
• jigsaw or circular attachment for a grinder for cutting wood (can be replaced with a regular hacksaw);
• screws or nails;

• scrap (for breaking hard ground);
• shovel with a short handle (for digging a hole);
• drill for soil (for making vertical recesses for corner posts);
• sledgehammer and hammer;
• building bubble level.

Necessary materials:

• concrete columns (can be replaced with metal ones);
• wooden beam (at least 50 mm thick);
• sheathing material;
• roofing material for roofing;
• cement;
• sand;
• dye;

To greatly simplify the work, a cesspool can be dug with a small excavator. It will be much easier to manually align its edges than to throw out cubic meters of soil with a shovel.

The main toilet units are built in the following sequence:

• cesspool - can be of various sizes, be concreted, contain a plastic barrel or a concrete ring;

• foundation - the most durable foundation is made from cement mortar, and the simplest structures are made entirely of wood. As corner supports, you can use concrete pillars, the bottom of which is impregnated with bitumen. They are deepened into the ground by 0.8-1 m and concreted in order to achieve maximum stability of the structure;
• floor and crate under the seat or toilet. The usual crate is made of a beam of 50 mm, and for capital structures its thickness increases to 100 mm. To increase the strength of the floor, the base of the toilet should be made away from the pit, leaving only part of the toilet with a seat above it;
• building frame. For the frame, metal welded corners or a thick beam are used. Cross connections are made of short bars, and the frame itself is a regularly shaped face. It is possible to connect bars and bars using metal corners or a groove-thorn fastening system;

• external cladding with wooden boards, block house or clapboard. Before finishing sheathing, the inter-wall gap can be filled with insulation;
• roof equipment that has a slope from the front of the toilet to the back (so that water does not flow under the door). The roof surface should protrude from the edges of the toilet by 15-25 cm, preventing moisture from entering under the base of the walls and into the cesspool. In the lower part of the toilet, it is recommended to fill in a concrete blind area up to 20 cm wide, covered with a layer of penetrating waterproofing;
• roof finish. To avoid leakage and decay, the roof should be covered with roofing felt or other sheet waterproofing material;
• interior and exterior wall decoration (painting or varnishing). The floor in the toilet can be made of wood or tiled. Such a hard and well-washable base will be more hygienic and durable. Before decorative finishing, it is advisable to treat the wood of the walls, floor and ceiling with a wood preservative (you should choose a preparation for residential buildings).

Equipping the closet with an additional hood located under the seat will reliably get rid of the smell in the room. The essence of the method is to install a high pipe that will draw air through the toilet (seat) and bring it out above the roof level. To implement this scheme, windows or slots should be provided for the inflow of fresh air.

You can decorate the toilet with an artistic drawing or simply with a high-quality applied layer of paint or varnish. Climbing plants planted around the restroom will make the room less visible.

Mistakes a Newbie Can Make

1. The location of the cesspool close to the groundwater level - can lead to the final deterioration of water sources in wells and wells.
2. Complete tightness of the structure (lack of fresh air inflow) - leads not only to the accumulation of an unpleasant odor, but also to dampness of the wood due to the constant formation of condensate.
3. Laying the floor over the cesspool with thin boards (less than 30 mm) can cause a person to fall into sewage.
4. The use of a common pit for a toilet and a shower leads to contamination of a larger volume of soil space and interferes with the normal flow of fecal fermentation processes.
5. The location of the toilet in the middle of a plot planted with trees and shrubs prevents the passage of a sewage truck.

To eliminate miscalculations in the construction of a country toilet, you should initially carefully consider its planning and construction. The most dangerous consequence is groundwater pollution, which can leave an entire dacha association without drinking water. Important aspects include the use of high-quality materials in the construction of supports, for which only durable beams free of rot should be selected.

Features of the construction and design of the ideal toilet for a summer residence, look at the video:

toilet care

1. Ventilation in dry weather - reduces and stabilizes the level of humidity.
2. Periodic painting or varnishing - is carried out as the previous layer of paintwork wears out.
3. Processing with an electric planer - is carried out when massive cracks appear, caused by drying out of the wood.
4. Periodic cleaning of the toilet - is carried out as the level of sewage rises to a level of about 2/3 of the volume of the cesspool. With very slow filling, it is recommended to call a vacuum cleaner at least once every 5 years, otherwise the feces form solid deposits that are difficult to pump out.

The appearance of a backlash of a structure is the first sign that the supports (beams) need to be replaced or repaired. The introduction of new corner and transverse racks into its composition helps to increase the strength of an already loosened structure.

You can get rid of the smell in the country toilet by adding peat or special biological preparations to the cesspool. In the summer, tomato tops will help to reduce the level of “aromas”, further slowing down the development of fly larvae.

Rest and work in a summer cottage without a toilet will always be inferior and uncomfortable. Organizing a wooden outhouse is the easiest way to provide basic amenities. Building a toilet made of wood will help to do without a bathroom in a country house of small dimensions. The availability of materials and the ability to assemble with your own hands are another plus in favor of a stationary wooden structure.