Diseases of red currant. Watering and soil care in the spring

Throughout the summer season, it is necessary to inspect the plants in the garden in order to detect warning signs in time. Both black and red currants, whose diseases and pests can destroy the entire crop, require your attention and care.

Black currants (as well as red, white, pink) are subject to the same adversities as gooseberries, so pest and disease control for both crops is essentially the same.

What is sick currant?

The plant is able to "signal" that it needs your help, so most diseases can be guessed by changing the appearance of the bush.

Currant resistant to diseases and pests

To "insure" and protect plants from most diseases, purchase blackcurrant varieties that are resistant to diseases and pests:

  • Zoya;
  • Minsk;
  • Kipian;
  • Binar;
  • Katyusha;
  • Seaside champion;
  • Goliath;
  • Klussonovskaya;
  • Kupalinka;
  • Memory of Vavilov;
  • Titania;
  • Ceres;
  • Temptation and etc.

Sferotek (American powdery mildew)

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Spheroteca (Sphaerotheca). The first signs of currant infection with a sphere library are already noticeable in May: the leaves, stems of the bush, and subsequently the fruits are covered with a white coating (later the color turns brown). Then the berries shrink and lose their sweetness, diseased bushes do not have time to grow and die. contribute to the development of the disease high humidity air, dry, nitrogen-saturated soil.

Control measures

The affected parts of the plant must be immediately cut and burned, and the bushes themselves should be treated with a fungicide (Fundazol, Topaz, etc.). For the prevention of the sphere library in the fall, it is necessary to remove fallen leaves, thin out the bushes. Dusting is also effective. wood ash.

Septoria (white spot)

The causative agent is a fungus of the genus Septoria. As with other fungal diseases, most suitable conditions for the development of white spotting - high humidity, low light, dense plantings. Currant leaves appear brown spots(2-3 mm in diameter), which brighten in the center by mid-summer, and turn brown at the edges.

Control measures

Infected leaves and shoots must be removed, then treated with 1% Bordeaux liquid. For prevention, it is necessary to carry out annual pruning of bushes, dig aisles, and in the fall remove fallen leaves from the site.

Anthracnose

Another common fungal disease familiar to many gardeners. The first signs are small reddish spots (1 mm in diameter) on currant leaves, which later begin to darken, swell and expand.

Control measures

In early spring, treatment with 1% Bordeaux liquid will help (repeat after harvesting). Since the fungus overwinters in fallen leaves, in the fall it must be carefully raked out from under the bushes and burned.

Rust

Currants are attacked by 2 types of this disease: goblet (yellow-orange "warts" form on the underside of the leaf) and columnar (reddish small spots on the leaves are characteristic). After some time, the berries and foliage of the diseased bush fall off.

Control measures

When the leaves are just beginning to bloom, the bushes are treated with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid (or other fungicides), then the treatment is repeated during the formation of buds. The final spraying is carried out after flowering.

Reversion (terry)

A viral disease from which the plant cannot be cured. Signs of terry currant: changes appearance leaves - they lengthen and become pointed, later barren flowers of irregular shape grow.

Control measures

Sick bushes will have to be removed from the site; partial pruning of heavily affected shoots will not help. To prevent the occurrence of this virus, carefully choose planting material. Since the terry virus is carried by insects (bud mites, aphids), treat the garden with pesticides in a timely manner.

striped mosaic

If the currant leaves began to turn yellow ahead of time, most likely a virus has appeared in the garden that causes a striped, or veined, mosaic. A characteristic feature - yellowness - spreads along the veins of the leaf, forming a mosaic pattern.

Control measures

Unfortunately, it is impossible to cure a currant affected by a striped mosaic, so diseased bushes must be dug up and burned, and the area where the virus has spread must be disinfected with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate.

Currant pests

Carriers of many diseases are insects, therefore, to protect the garden, it is necessary to carry out timely processing of currants from diseases and pests in spring and autumn. In this fight, all means are good, so we recommend using both natural and chemical preparations, most importantly, do not forget about precautions - work in protective clothing.

To make it convenient to figure out how to spray currants from diseases and pests, we suggest using our table:

Scheme of processing currants from diseases and pests
Time Procedure
Early spring, just after the snow melts
  • removal of fallen leaves, loosening of the soil between the rows and around the bushes;
  • dousing bush and soil hot water with potassium permanganate (for 1 bush 5 l of solution) (against aphids);
  • spraying with a 3% solution blue vitriol(300 g per 10 liters of water) or urea;
  • spraying with a 3% solution of copper sulfate, a 5% solution iron sulphate, infusion of ash (100 g per 1 liter of water, insist 3 days, strain, add 3 liters of water) (against)
Bud swelling period
  • sanitary pruning of bushes, careful cutting of stumps, burning of dry branches and leaves;
  • mulching the soil under the bushes with peat chips (layer 6 cm);
  • spraying with an 8-10% solution of lime (against kidney moth)
Before flowering bushes (budding period)
  • spraying with 3% Bordeaux liquid;
  • treatment with Novaktion (5 ml per 10 liters of water);
  • spraying with colloidal sulfur (100 g per 10 l of water) or garlic infusion (100 g of minced garlic per 10 l of water) (against kidney mite);
  • treatment with Iskra-M, Aktara, Insector, Kinmiks, Inta-Vir and others (against aphids);
  • spraying with Inta-C-M, Lepidocid, Fufanon-Nova, Bitoxibacillin (against moths)
At the end of flowering
  • spraying with Iskra (1 tablet per 10 liters of water);
  • loosening the soil around the bushes (against kidney moth)
After flowering
  • spraying with 1% Bordeaux liquid;
  • spraying with Karbofos (75 g per 10 l of water), per bush - 1-1.5 l of solution;
  • spraying with colloidal sulfur, Aliot or garlic infusion (100 g minced garlic per 10 liters of water) (against kidney mite)
After picking berries
  • spraying with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture
Late fall
  • cleaning and burning leaves;
  • loosening the soil around the bushes.

kidney moth

A small butterfly (wingspan 17 mm) yellow-brown. "Specializes" in red and white currants, black attacks less often. After wintering under the bark and at the base of the bush, the caterpillar comes out "to the light" and eats the contents of the currant buds. After flowering, the caterpillar becomes a butterfly and lays its eggs in berries, where the larvae continue to develop.

Control measures

For prevention, it is necessary to remove shoots with lagging bark “under the stump”, rake out fallen leaves from under the bushes and burn it away from the garden. During the swelling of the kidneys, the bushes can be treated with Iskra-M.

currant aphid

Curled leaves with reddish swollen spots and twisted young shoots are signs that the plant has been attacked by aphids. Colonies of this insect are easy to detect on the underside of the leaf, as well as on shoots where the pest hibernates.

Control measures

To destroy the aphid eggs, the bushes are abundantly watered with hot water (before bud break) or treated with an insecticide (Fufanon, Decis, Aktara, Insector, Iskra, Inta-Ts-M, Inta-Vir, Kinmiks, etc.).

Ognevka

During flowering moth butterflies lay their eggs in currant inflorescences. Then the caterpillars begin to eat berries and leaves, braiding them with cobwebs. Each caterpillar is capable of destroying 10-15 berries.

Control measures

Before and after flowering, currant bushes are treated with insecticide solutions (Spark, Fufanon-Nova, Bitoxibacillin). For prevention, before flowering, the ground under the bush is mulched with peat or compost, and late autumn the soil under the currant is loosened, the bushes are spudded.

kidney mite

If in the spring on a currant bush too large swollen buds are found, similar to small cabbage "heads", most likely a kidney mite lives in them. When the larva becomes crowded in the kidney, it goes into another, and thus damaging a large number of currant buds. The tick can carry the terry virus.

Control measures

In early May, during budding, "suspicious" buds must be plucked out. Before flowering, when ticks are most vulnerable, the bushes are sprayed with an insecticide (Tanrek, Fufanon-Nova, Decis, etc.).

Glassware

Spring treatment of currants from pests and diseases, for example, pruning, helps to identify damage to the bush with a glass case. The caterpillars of this pest live in currant shoots and leave wormholes behind. They feed inside shoots, making moves, because of which the branches stop growing, dry out and die.

Control measures

Every 2 weeks it is necessary to inspect the bushes and cut off (to the white core) the drying shoots in which the caterpillars settled. You can treat currants from a glass case with the same preparations as in the fight against a tick or kidney moth.

Protecting currants from pests and diseases is not too difficult and every gardener can do it. The main thing is to follow the basic agrotechnical rules, providing plants with timely care.

This berry belongs to the medicinal fruits, but the plant itself is susceptible to diseases. Therefore, the article will consider the question of what are the diseases of red currant, how to treat them, as well as ways to deal with pests that plague the culture.

Diseases

Currant is unpretentious in care, but violation of the rules of agricultural technology leads to diseases. The gardener has additional troubles aimed at the healing therapy of the berry. But in order to choose an effective means of struggle, you need to correctly diagnose. If a red currant of the disease grows on the site and its treatment is identical to black.

Blackcurrant is more susceptible to this disease, but in Lately suffers and red. The causative agent of the virus is a bud mite that enters the garden along with infected seedlings.

The disease passes from bush to bush, wandering around the site for several years. The flowers are the signal that the plant has reverted. They become needle-terry (almost curly) and acquire a purple hue.

The disease also appears on the leaves. They shrink, acquire irregular shape lose their specific odour. Instead of 5, 3 lobes grow with coarse, sparse veins. The leaves are framed with large teeth.

There is a large thickening of the bush. Currant ceases to produce and gradually loses its grade. The problem is that it doesn't show up right away. Therefore, careful monitoring of new bushes (and adjacent ones) is required for 4 years in order to detect infection in time.

Basic therapy includes the following points:

  • preventive treatment of bushes by spraying with colloidal sulfur, acaricidal preparations (Vertimek, Nitrafen, Neoron), biological agents (Actofit, Fitoverm); procedures are carried out at the time of bud break and during budding;
  • having found damaged branches, they cut them off and burn them away from the site;
  • if the damage is significant, then apply more radical way- uproot the entire bush, in order to save the rest of the plants from terry.

To prevent an "epidemic", it is recommended that seedlings be kept for 2-3 days in a Fitoverm solution before planting. From folk remedies for this purpose, tea leaves are used (0.25 kg per bucket of water). It is worth planting rows of garlic around a young shrub - its specific smell will scare away the tick.

This disease is from a number of fungal, spreads on the plant with lightning speed. The first signs are found on currants in June - gray rounded spots with a dark brown edging appear on the leaves. A little later, black blotches begin to appear in the foci, which are mature spores of the fungus. If you do not stop their further growth, the leaves dry and fall off. The synthesis of chloroform is disrupted, and the plant dies.

Currant treatment for white spotting includes the following points:

  • treatment of bushes with cuprozan containing copper at a concentration of 0.4% or colloidal sulfur (1%);
  • spraying with fungicides - Pervikur, Acrobat, Ridomil, Fitosporin;
  • removal of part of the shoots on which infected leaves are found.

The success of therapeutic measures depends on the timely detection of septoria. Therefore, with the start summer period the berry should be inspected regularly.

This disease on the bushes appears a little earlier - in May. The gardener first notices small single spots of a brownish-red color. Their number begins to increase rapidly, merging with each other and capturing the entire leaf plate, which acquires a rich brown or red color. Sluggish leaves fall off and the plant stops growing.

If a bush is partially diseased, it will bear fruit, but not as abundantly as it should. The berries shrink and lose their sweetness.

  • before bud break - Bordeaux liquid or Nitrofen (3% concentration);
  • before flowering and after the main collection of fruits - copper chloride (0.3%) or Bordeaux liquid (1%);
  • finding infected leaves, they are cut off and destroyed.

It should be taken into account that anthracnose develops more actively in wet weather. Therefore, after each rain it is necessary to carry out preventive examinations bushes, so as not to miss the moment when the leaves begin to turn red.

The name of this disease is not accidental - on the lower part sheet plate(as well as on berries and flowers) a growth appears that looks like a glass. Its reddish-red color, indeed, resembles rust. Goblets grow from flat orange pads - spore containers.

Changing its color, the diseased leaf falls off. Infected fruits remain underdeveloped and lose their nutritional value. The danger of rust is its prolongation - the disease can affect the yield of future years.

Measures to combat goblet rust on currants are as follows:

  • it is necessary to spray diseased bushes several times with Bordeaux liquid: 1st - before the leaves appear, 2nd - after flowering and 3rd - after another week;
  • inhibit the development of the fungus fungicides: Topaz, Fitosporin-M, Previkur;
  • it is also recommended to use copper-containing agents or colloidal sulfur.

Goblet rust often appears in areas adjacent to sedge thickets. Therapy for the destruction of the fungus will not be effective if you do not fight the negative neighbor.

When orange dots appeared on the branches of the currant, this is another disease - nectrium drying out, it can completely destroy the plant. It is treated with pruning of the affected parts, followed by smearing the sections with var and treating with Bordeaux liquid.

This disease is also called powdery mildew. To appear white coating can be on any part of the plant, most often it is noticed at the beginning summer season. Affected leaves curl, stems are deformed and dry. The fruits develop poorly, lose taste qualities and become unpresentable in appearance.

Spore containers are attached to the plant with miniature suction cups and quickly begin to form colonies. On a neglected site, a sphere library is capable of destroying a berry plant in a couple of years.

To combat powdery mildew, you can use any of the folk recipes below:

  • the most effective remedy is ground sulfur; wet bushes are pollinated with a powdery composition; the procedure is carried out in hot weather;
  • bacteria that develop in mullein infusion kill mycelium; for processing currants, 1 part of manure is poured with 3 parts of water and infused for 3-4 days; ready composition once again diluted in a ratio of 1: 3 and proceed to the treatment of diseased bushes; if there is no manure at hand, rotten leaves, hay or dust can be used;
  • give a good result soap solutions(proportions are given for 1 liter of water):
  1. 25 y. laundry soap and 2.5 g of copper sulfate;
  2. 3.5 g of soap and 4 g of soda ash;
  3. 10 g of soap, 5 mg of denatured alcohol, 3 g of drinking soda, 1 g of salicylic acid;
  • an infusion of garlic copes well with the sphere library - 25 teeth (crushed) withstand a day in 1 liter of water; you need to spray the plants in the evening, making several visits with an interval of 7 days.

Good help in solving this problem Nitrafen, Ftalan, Oksihom. Of the systemic fungicides, Topaz and Vectra can be distinguished. For preventive purposes, it is recommended to plant horsetail or marigolds near the berry.

Pests

For a variety of pests, you can not only poison. Summer residents often resort to folk remedies to scare away insects from berry plantations. Good result gives such a method of "pure" struggle as a trap.

This insect causes great harm to berry plants. The sawfly looks like a fly that emerges from cocoons at the time of the formation of young leaves. The pest lays larvae on the slotted plate, which, developing, feed on foliage. If measures are not taken in time, the plant will die.

It is not difficult to recognize the sawfly, knowing the description: its false caterpillars have a greenish body and a brown-brown head.

On a note. It is impossible to ignore the invasion of the sawfly - the insect manages to give 2 generations in a season, multiplying exponentially.

A dark brown butterfly with a specific triangular pattern on its wings lays its eggs on the young stems of the plant, as well as on the buds. Hatched caterpillars quickly eat away flowers, green twigs. After 50 days, the second generation of the leaflet is already destroying the berry clusters.

The insect fully justifies its name - the caterpillars wrap themselves in leaves, turning them into tubes-cocoons wrapped in cobwebs.

The following control measures are applied to the leaflet:

  • in early spring bushes are sprayed with insecticides: Phosphamide, Ripcord, Decis;
  • when wrapped leaves are found, it is recommended to cut them off, preventing the caterpillars from turning into butterflies;
  • spraying plants with soapy infusions of tobacco, tomato or potato tops gives a good effect.

Insects can really be scared away from currants if elderberry bushes are planted nearby. In calm weather, fumigation is recommended. garden plot smoke from a fire, to which lingonberry leaves are added.

Noticing the gnawed leaves and clusters of berries, wrapped in cobwebs, inside which black-headed green caterpillars lurked, experienced gardener understands that a fire started on the site. This dangerous pest begins to eat the buds, then moves on to the flowers, and if the berries have time to appear, then proceeds to them.

A female in one clutch can lay up to 200 eggs, which very quickly turn into caterpillars that actively spread over the plant and eat it.

Among the drugs used to destroy moths, it is worth highlighting the following:

  • before budding, Kinmiks, Rovikurt, Kilzar are used;
  • chemicals used after flowering - Fufanon, Iskra-M, Aktellik;
  • during the period of ripeness of berries, only biological preparations are needed: Lepidocid, Fitoverm, Iskra-bio.

On a small berry, damaged fruit clusters can be harvested by hand. In addition to chemicals it is recommended to apply folk remedies: decoctions of tobacco, wormwood, coniferous needles. A sprig of flowering elderberry will scare away the fire from the bush.

Colonies small insects(up to 4 mm long) of a greenish color multiply quickly and densely stick around the whole plant. The tops of the branches wither immediately, the leaves lose their elasticity, curl and turn yellow. The bush significantly slows down in development, which affects further productivity.

In order to prevent the pest from multiplying, it is recommended to treat the berry with such means:

  • industrial: Agrovertin, Fitoverm, Fastak, Taran, Detoyl, Karbofos, Feverfew;
  • folk: decoctions of nettle, wormwood, dandelions, pepper, chamomile, potato, tomato tops, infusions of rhubarb leaves.

Another butterfly harms currants. The insect attracts with its appearance - it has a yellow body, snow-white wings are decorated with black-blue and yellow spots. But this appearance is deceiving - the butterfly is quite harmful. The moth caterpillar eats away the buds and gnaws through the young leaves.

The cocoon that the nymph weaves is firmly fixed on the bottom of the plate. Under its weight, the leaf does not withstand and falls to the ground. If there are many moths on one bush, the branches will quickly become bare.

The following measures are applied to this pest:

  • spraying with Kinmiks or Karbofos;
  • use decoctions of plants with insecticidal properties (they are mentioned above);
  • in spring, young caterpillars are shaken off the bushes by hand onto the litter and destroyed;
  • fallen leaves with moth cocoons should also be collected and burned.

When processing currant bushes, one should not forget about neighboring crops - this insect is omnivorous. Therefore, it can be seen not only on berries, but also on stone fruits.

The kidney mite was mentioned in the "Diseases" section, but the currant is also annoyed web pest. It is sometimes mistaken for a spider due to its 4 short pairs of legs. Adhering to the bush, adults and its larvae feed on the cell sap of young shoots and leaves. From this, the process of photosynthesis is disrupted, and the plant loses its immunity.

A sign that a tick has settled on the currant is a modification of the color of the leaves. Saturated green tint first fades, then turns into yellow. After that, the leaves dry up and fall off. If you carefully examine the underside of the still green plate, you can see a thin pattern of the mite's cobweb.

Gardeners use such means of pest control:

  • bushes are sprayed with biological “weapons” - decoctions and infusions of wormwood, Persian chamomile, dandelions, as well as tomato tops;
  • it is recommended to purchase a specialized remedy for ticks - Acaricide or use Feverfew, Karbofos, Fufafon, Detoil;
  • from insecticidal preparations it is worth paying attention to Fitoverm, Aktellik, Agravertin;
  • you can also use potash or liquid soap in the fight against ticks.

Spider and kidney mites are dangerous because they are carriers of viral and fungal infections. Taking into account the short life cycle insect (only 12 days), you can estimate what the damage will be if measures are not taken in time.

If the currant, which has not yet had time to throw off the flowers, has begun to fade, or the berries that have just appeared are crumbling, we can safely assume that a glass case has started up in the berry. This enemy is dangerous because it hurts on the sly - small larvae eat away the stems from the inside. There they live until the next year and crawl out when spring comes to pupate.

The usual methods of dealing with this pest do not work.

The summer resident will have to develop a strategy designed for a long period:

  • before planting, the cuttings are kept for 3 days in sand moistened with Nemabact or any other similar biological solution containing nematodes (this main enemy glass cases);
  • loosening the soil, tobacco dust, shag, ash, mustard (powder), ground pepper are added to the soil;
  • as soon as the buds begin to bloom, the bushes are treated with Anthony-F;
  • at the moment the larvae come out, the currants are sprayed with chemicals such as Agravertin;
  • when the glass-box butterflies begin their years, traps with sweet bait (syrup, fermented honey, jam) are set near the bushes, while using insecticides.

The pest can also be influenced psychologically, scaring it away with the smell of certain plants: marigolds, garlic, elderberry, mint. It is recommended to plant nearby coniferous trees. But bird cherry, on the contrary, will only attract this insect to the site.

This is another pest that eats currant stalks from the inside. In the affected areas, the branches darken, crack and even break off. The leaves also disappear - first they turn yellow, then dry up. Mosquito-like gall midges begin their years at the moment mass flowering berry crops.

The pest makes its laying in cracks on the shoots, from there the larvae crawl away, eating away the tasty pulp. A sign of infection is the appearance of red spots on the leaves of the currant. Each such formation has a bumpy appearance.

It is necessary to deal with the problem at its first manifestations:

  • the root zone is treated with a mixture of fluff and tobacco dust (1: 1);
  • you can also use sand with wood ash or naphthalene;
  • from chemicals, Karate, Kemifos, Kinmiks are used;
  • before bud break, plants are sprayed with vitriol with hydrated lime;
  • several times a season they are treated with infusions of shells walnuts, garlic, poisonous henbane.

You can attract the natural enemies of the gallitsa - antacoris bugs - to the berry bush. To do this, buckwheat and dill are planted between the bushes.

About disease prevention

In order not to complain that there are red convex spots on the currant, how to deal with them, as well as other diseases of the culture, Special attention focus on prevention:

  • autumn digging of the soil;
  • timely cleaning of fallen leaves;
  • regular inspection of plants in order to identify and remove damaged elements;
  • fungicidal treatment before bud break;
  • strengthening immunity with regular feeding;
  • planting healthy seedlings.

To avoid redcurrant disease with red spots on the leaves, rust, fungi, only disease-resistant crop varieties are chosen for planting.

Redcurrant, whose diseases and treatment directly affect the quantity and quality of the crop, was cultivated by the Dutch in the 5th century, but only for aesthetic reasons. Due to its high decorative qualities, the shrub was used to decorate gardens. Currently unpretentious shrub plant is a permanent resident of almost every land plot, delighting gardeners not only with decorative effect, but also with useful sweet and sour berries.

Red currant - the nuances of growing

Due to the undemanding nature of the culture, the cultivation of red currants is suitable even for those gardeners who do not have the opportunity or desire to spend a lot of time and effort on care.

However, it is important that when planting seedlings, the characteristics of the culture are taken into account:

  • Lighting - currants like to grow in open, well-lit areas where natural ventilation occurs.
  • Soil - culture prefers loose, light soil with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction.
  • Humidity - the shrub tolerates quite high level groundwater deposits.

Care for red currants in the open field

Comprehensive care for red currants involves the implementation of activities such as watering, caring for the near-trunk area, top dressing, pruning.

Watering and mulching

Currant needs in large numbers water in summer hot weather and after flowering, when the fruits are poured. To keep moisture in trunk circle it is recommended to mulch with sawdust, which will also reduce the time for weeding and loosening.

Loosening and weeding

The soil in the trunk circle should, after moistening, be loosened and cleared of weeds. Procedures must be carried out carefully so as not to damage the surface root system of the culture.

Fertilization

Supplementary nutrition is an important part of care. For the annual achievement high performance when harvesting, it is necessary to enrich the soil with nutrients that are consumed by the crop during the growing season.

Top dressing is carried out several times per season:

  • In early spring, 40-50 g of nitrogen-containing fertilizers are applied per 1 m2.
  • Before flowering, top dressing is carried out with phosphorus and potash fertilizers at the rate of 20 g and 25 g per 1 m2, respectively.
  • In autumn, each bush is fed with superphosphate in the amount of 100 g and potassium sulfate - 30 g, which allows the currant to endure the winter without stress.

Among the means that it is necessary to spray currants in the fall from pests, there should be both, and. It is worth remembering that these drugs can pose a significant threat to human health, therefore, in the process of processing, personal precautions must be followed.

As an antifungal drug, you can take, for example, a 1% solution, and others. Spraying is preferably carried out in the evening or early in the morning, since the drug, interacting with active sunlight, can burn the stems and leaves.

Important! If you notice on your currants signs of any fungal disease or pest damage - a single treatment will not be enough, it is worth spraying the bushes at least twice.

As an insecticide, drugs such as Aliot, Neoron and others are suitable. All these preparations are designed to combat galits, glass cases and, which are especially greedy for currant leaves that are nutritious for them.

Folk remedies

Many modern gardeners refuse to use chemicals, because, getting on the leaves and stems of the plant, they will eventually, albeit in much smaller quantities, end up inside the berries. Therefore, we present one of the most popular methods autumn processing currant bushes.

Very effective tool in the fight against various diseases and pests, garlic tincture showed itself. To prepare it, you should take 100 g of garlic per 1 liter of water. Garlic should be finely chopped and added to water, then leave it all to brew for one day. Next, 4 g of finely chopped soap should be added to the resulting liquid for each liter of the mixture. It is necessary to process at the rate of 0.5 liters of tincture per bush.

Did you know? Previously, the currant was called the monastery berry, since it was actively grown by monks in monasteries for the purpose of eating and as a raw material for various medicines.


You can also use a weak solution, which has proven to be quite effective, and most importantly - available remedy. Processing with potassium permanganate can be done at any time, even during the flowering period of the plant.

tillage

Feeding currants after harvesting is a rather important factor contributing to its active fruiting in the next season. There is no significant difference for the plant, what kind of fertilizer you will be, organic or mineral, everything will be equally well perceived by them and will only benefit.

Important! Remember that if, when planting, you applied fertilizer under your currant bushes, then over the next 2-3 years they will not need to be fed at all.


organic

From it is best to use, or humus. It is possible in combination, but not more than one bucket in total for each bush. These substances will provide your plants with the proper amount of nitrogen.

You can also use any or mullein, but you need to be careful with these fertilizers, as they can "burn" the roots of plants if they are added undiluted. To obtain a ready-to-use solution, it is recommended to dilute these substances in a ratio of 1:10 with water and let them brew for a week.

Mineral fertilizers

Most often, fertilizers rich in and are used to feed currants, since the amount of nitrogen contained in organic matter completely covers the needs of this plant. Currant requires a lot of phosphorus, since this is the main substance that stimulates the stiffening of shoots. So, as mineral supplement The following substances are best suited:

  • Double in combination with (for 1 bucket of water, 2 tablespoons of each substance).
  • Ammophoska and (2 tablespoons of the first and 1 glass of the second in a bucket of water).
  • Superphosphate in combination with and wood ash (1 tablespoon of the first and second and 1 glass of ash per bucket of water).
  • Potassium sulfate in combination with superphosphate (a tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

What else?

Necessary part autumn care behind the currant bushes is her timely pruning and care for, in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwhich grows given plant. Some gardeners assign agrotechnical manipulations a leading role in the successful development of this berry.

It will be red, black or white. All diseases and pests different varieties currants are the same.

It is important for the gardener to recognize the signs of the disease in initial stage until it has spread to the entire bush. Our article contains the most common currant diseases and the fight against them, photos with signs of damage, as well as all necessary measures treatment and prevention.

Currant (from lat. Ribes) became popular in Russia in the 11th century. fragrant berry got its name due to the strong smell, for which it was called "currant". The culture belongs to the Gooseberry family (lat. Grossulariaceae) and has more than a hundred varieties.

Currant is a real medicine for a person. Its fruits and leaves contain a huge amount of all sorts of useful substances: vitamins (E and C, as well as many others), trace elements, acids and sugars, various biologically active compounds.

Thanks to its valuable composition, it is popular among amateurs. folk treatment but she can also get sick. At the same time, massive outbreaks of diseases can completely deprive you of the crop. Therefore, it is worth taking precautions very seriously and knowing in advance what you may encounter.

Common currant diseases and their treatment, description of signs of infection

If only a few bushes of this berry grow on your site, you should thoroughly prepare from the beginning of spring.

Currant anthracnose (lat. Pseudopeziza ribis)

The causative agent of this disease is the fungus Colletotrichum orbiculare. The first manifestations of infection can often be seen in the middle of the summer season. Main symptoms:

  • leaves appear red and brown spots small size(up to 1 mm) with dark tubercles in the center;
  • spots gradually increase, affecting the entire leaf;
  • leaves dry up and fall off.

This disease is characteristic of all types of currants, but is especially common on red. During the rainy season, the fungus is more active and dangerous to the plant. Its spores can easily survive the winter on plant debris. Having found currant anthracnose on the site, treatment should begin immediately.

To do this, use Bordeaux liquid (0.1 kg of the drug per 10 liters of water). Spraying is carried out immediately after detection, and again - after harvesting the berries.

You can prevent the disease with the help of simple preventive measures:

  • all the fallen leaves and plant remains must be removed from the soil and burned;
  • it is not recommended to plant young healthy bushes in the place where the infected plant was.
In the photo, blackcurrant leaves affected by anthracnose

Powdery mildew (lat. Sphaerotheca mors-uvae)

Powdery mildew is caused by the fungus Erysiphales. There are no currant varieties that are completely resistant to this disease. A fungus forms on leaves, petioles, young shoots, berries and stalks of plants.

In the middle of the summer season, the following symptoms of the disease can be found on berry bushes:

  • young leaves are covered with a white loose bloom;
  • gradually it spreads to berries.

Powdery mildew belongs to a rare currant disease and the fight against it does not cause problems with timely processing.

In the fight against the disease, you can use pharmaceutical iodine: 1 bottle of 5% of the drug per 10 liters of liquid. The procedure should be repeated after 3-4 days. In the event that the treatment has not brought results, 1% copper sulfate should be used: a teaspoon per 6-7 liters of liquid.

The presence of such a disease indicates an unhealthy state of the bushes. The main prevention is the correct agricultural technology. Regular feeding and care will help to avoid infection.


Powdery mildew on currants appears as a white coating

Septoria is a currant disease that causes mass drying and premature leaf fall. The first symptoms appear at the end of May. On currant leaves, you can see small brown or reddish spots located between the veins. Then they brighten in the center, leaving a clear brown border at the edges.

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On stems and petioles, these spots crack and deepen, becoming like ulcers. On the berries they are flat, with groups of crowded black dots.

Diseased bushes have poor growth and very small berries. Buds on shoots may not develop at all, and the shoots themselves dry out quickly. More often than other types of this disease suffers black currant. The source of infection are diseased fallen leaves.

Especially quickly septoria spreads in wet weather and in dense plantings.

  • use only healthy planting materials;
  • in autumn, destroy dry leaves, and in spring - overwintered ones;
  • dig the soil in the berry fields in early spring, as well as in late autumn;
  • do not postpone thinning of too dense plantings;
  • before bud break, spray with copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture;
  • during the growing season, spray with a Bordeaux mixture three times - immediately before flowering, during it and after the end of the harvest;
  • apply fertilizers with trace elements to the soil under the bushes: copper, manganese, zinc and boron - at least 6 g per 10 sq. meters.

Bushes suffering from septoria lose their leaves ahead of time, grow poorly and give a poor harvest.

Currant rust (lat. Puccinia ribesii-caricis)

You can find rust on the bushes at any time of the season. There are 2 types of it:

  • goblet - expressed in the presence on the leaves of convex humps of orange color, resembling warts;
  • columnar - small orange dots form on the leaves. Columnar rust on currants appears as an orange coating.

goblet rust

The defeat of the currant with goblet rust can be immediately recognized by the large orange pads that form on the underside of the leaves. At the same time, the berries are deformed, become one-sided, stop growing, and then completely fall off.

The disease is fungal. One generation of spores is formed on the currant, so rust appears only in the first half of the growing season. But the fungus does not die, as one might think, but passes to other plants - most often to sedge, where it winters. Contributes to the development of the mycelium high humidity and close proximity to sedge. Therefore, in order to prevent infection of the currant bush with goblet rust, the following measures should be taken:

  • destroy sedge growing closer than 500 meters from currant plantings;
  • drain excessively wet areas;
  • spray Bordeaux mixture during bud swelling and 10 days after flowering.

Treatment of currants from rust occurs with the help of fungicides - drugs that can destroy fungal diseases. These include phthalan, captan, nitrafen and other effective drugs.

columnar rust

This disease differs from goblet rust in that on the underside of the leaves, orange pads gradually turn into horn-shaped spore columns that look like felt. By the end of summer, they turn brown and cover the affected leaves like a pile.

Infection with columnar rust is most often associated with Siberian cedars and five-needle pines - spores matured on currants settle on them. And those that develop on conifers again infect currants. On berry bushes, the first signs of damage become noticeable in June.

Prevention and control measures:

  • plant currants as far as possible from the coniferous forest;
  • collect and dispose of all fallen currant leaves;
  • especially carefully dig the soil in the berry fields;
  • bring in the spring under the currant organic fertilizers and ashes;
  • feed currant bushes fertilizers with trace elements: zinc sulfate and copper sulfate;
  • spray in spring and autumn with the same preparations that are used against anthracnose;
  • in case of severe damage, spray the bushes with a Bordeaux mixture.

Columnar rust of currant significantly reduces yield. The disease refers to fungal diseases of the currant. The spores of the fungus overwinter on fallen leaves and are spread by water in wet weather.

Blackcurrant diseases and their treatment photo

The most popular variety of this culture is black. Its berries have a strong taste and aroma, and are most often used in conservation. This species berry bushes it is worth paying special attention, since blackcurrant diseases and the fight against them have their own characteristics and differences.

Blackcurrant reversion, or Terry (lat. Ribes virus 1)

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The causative agent of the disease is Ribes virus 1, and the carrier is a kidney tick. The virus leads to a mutation of the original form of the species and infertility of the plant.

The main symptoms are:

  • change in the shape of the leaves: elongation, asymmetry, the presence of sharp teeth; leaves can become three-lobed;
  • decrease in the number of veins;
  • leaves may turn purple;
  • flowers become elongated with narrow petals;
  • lack of fruiting and characteristic smell of the plant.

You can detect a similar disease already during the flowering period. Infected plants are a source of infection for healthy ones, so the former must be removed. Treatment with drugs or pruning will not be effective.

Terry can be prevented in the following ways:

  • for planting, it is necessary to choose only healthy and proven material;
  • potassium and phosphorus top dressings make the plant more resistant to disease;
  • an excess of nitrogen supplements reduces immunity to the virus;
  • after harvesting, the bushes are treated with Karbofos according to the instructions.

Sick bushes bloom and bloom a few days later than healthy ones. This also indicates the presence of the disease. Double flowers do not produce berries or small and ugly fruits are formed from them.

Striped blackcurrant mosaic

The striped mosaic is viral disease. Characteristic features diseases: a gray-yellow pattern appears near the veins of the leaves.

Infection occurs when a diseased cutting is grafted onto a bush, when pruning with one tool, first an infected and then a healthy plant.

Other carriers of the disease are also known - these are the bud mites and aphids. There is no treatment for the striped mosaic: the infected bush should be removed.


Currant leaf infected with striped mosaic

White and red currant diseases and treatment

Diseases of the red currant and their treatment are different from the black currant, and are often also found in the white berry. You can prevent the disease with the help of drugs and preventive measures.

Nektrium drying of shoots and branches (lat. Sphaeria ribis Tode)

Quite often, currants are exposed to the disease of non-nectary drying of young shoots and branches. The causative agent is a species of marsupial fungus Nectria ribis. Main symptoms:

  • orange dots form on the branches and shoots, which gradually grow, turning into voluminous brown tubercles;
  • during the maturation of spores, formations become black;
  • young shoots gradually dry up and die.

Nectrian drying of shoots appears on white and red currants. If you do not start treatment in time, you can lose the entire plant. When the first symptoms are detected, the bushes are pruned: the affected branches are cut and burned.

The cut points should be disinfected with a Bordeaux mixture and treated with garden pitch.

Infection can be prevented by proper agricultural technology: it is necessary to regularly remove weeds, remove fallen leaves and systematically feed the plants. At proper care currant diseases, photos of which you will find in this article, are not terrible.


In the affected plant, branches begin to dry out and die. If you examine the affected shoot, then on the lower part you can see numerous tubercles of red-brown color. Then they turn black.

Currant pests, signs of their appearance

A variety of currant pests not only cause damage to all parts of plants, weakening them and destroying the crop, but also often serve as a background for the development of currant diseases, and sometimes as carriers of viruses. Most dangerous pests discussed below.

  • Currant bud mite

A characteristic feature of infection is the hibernation of the tick directly in the affected kidneys. External signs of damage to currants are as follows:

  1. The buds inhabited by ticks do not bloom in the spring, swell in an unnatural way and dry up. Ticks born in a dead bud move to other shoots, infecting new buds, where they can give another 1-2 generations.
  2. Infected with a small number of mites, the buds bloom, forming underdeveloped shortened shoots, the bushes do not ripen and are subject to freezing.

An omnivorous pest that greatly weakens the bushes, overwinters on the shoots and can subsequently develop on all parts of the plant. Young shoots and leaves are most susceptible to damage.


In the photo, currant bud mite
  1. Generations of insects emerge from their eggs in spring, and when warm and humid weather sets in, they multiply rapidly, and the colonization is undulating.
  2. Sexually mature light green individuals are visible to the naked eye, colonies are more often localized on the underside of the leaves and the tops of the shoots.
  3. The affected leaves swell in the form of light bubbles, the shoots are bent and remain undeveloped.

If there are already berries on the currant, then you should not spray the aphids with chemicals. You can fight aphids and folk methods: infusion of onion peel, infusion of marigolds. Also, aphids do not like red pepper, tobacco, ash.
  • Currant goldfish and glass

Insect larvae of these species infect currant branches and in a short time, with a strong infection, they can completely destroy plantations. Determine the presence of pests as follows:

Suspicion of damage by larvae should arise if in the spring the gardener observes withering and drying currant shoots. Cutting along such a shoot, you can see inside an oblong dark passage, in which there is either a legless larva of the currant beetle or white caterpillar currant glassware.

The larvae of both species pupate in May, years occur in June, and the larvae hatch again in July, damaging the shoots.


In the photo, a glass-box pest butterfly. Flight is observed in the last days of June, just 2 weeks after the flowering of black currant. With spread transparent wings, its size reaches 25-28 mm. A small oblong body all in dark gray scales. And only the abdomen is furrowed by light transverse stripes: the male has 4 of them, the female has 3.
  • gooseberry moth

Gooseberry moth - a butterfly with wings covered with black and yellow spots. Usually she prefers gooseberries, but currants are also not averse to feasting on. Egg laying occurs with reverse side leaves.

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The emerging caterpillars eat the leaves from all sides. In the middle of summer, they turn into pupae and hang from the branches.

For prevention it is necessary:

  • carefully clean and cultivate the land;
  • collect all pupae in July and destroy;
  • treat in the fall with urea;
  • spray plantings ("Fitoverm", arsenic calcium DDT and others).

How to spray currants from pests

Cutting and burning damaged shoots, digging the soil under the bushes remain the main measures to reduce damage from pests in currant plantings.

For comprehensive protection berry growers perform mandatory processing in the following periods:

  • After bud break

Against aphids, a 0.1% emulsion of 25% anometrin-N, solutions of decis, confidor or calypso are used in concentrations according to the instructions of the preparations.

  • Before flowering and immediately after.

Colloidal sulfur treatments contribute to the destruction of not only the powdery mildew fungus, but also have a detrimental effect on the currant mite. To do this, spray the bushes and the ground under them with a 0.5% sulfur suspension prepared according to the above recipe.

  • 20 days after flowering.

Spray currant bushes from goldfish and glassware with 0.9% emulsion of 10% karbofos, 0.3% chlorophos solution or BI-58 preparation. The use of drugs during this period is effective in foci of high prevalence of pests, since the years of sexually mature individuals occur.

Folk remedies in the fight against diseases and pests of currants

Limiting the use of pesticides significantly increases the environmental friendliness of the crop; in many cases, folk remedies are quite effective and much more affordable than modern chemical remedies.

With the defeat of aphids, mites, other sucking pests, treatments with herbal preparations prepared according to the following recipes are effective:

  1. Fresh garlic in a mass of 100-200 g is ground into a meat grinder, poured into 10 liters of water, filtered and the affected plants are immediately processed.
  2. Onion peel weighing 200 g is poured into 10 liters of water and infused for 4-5 days.
  3. Dandelion leaves (400 g) or plants with roots (200 g) are poured into 10 liters of water heated to 40 C and infused for 2 hours.

To combat goldfish and glassware at the same time as when treating with pesticides, that is, 20 days after flowering, the following means are used:

  1. Soap emulsion prepared at the rate of 200 g of crushed laundry soap per 10 l warm water.
  2. A decoction of wormwood is prepared from 1 kg of wilted raw materials, poured into it with 2-3 liters of warm water and boiled over low heat for 15 minutes, leaving it to infuse for 5-6 hours. The volume is brought to 10 l of water and the plants are treated.
  3. Green tops of potatoes (1 kg) are crushed, pour 10 liters of water and leave for 4 hours.
  4. During the summer, insect traps are set with fruit syrups, periodically checked and destroyed by pests.

Video: Fighting diseases and pests of red and black currants without chemicals

Rules of care and preventive measures

In order for currant plantings to be healthy and invariably please the harvest, it is necessary to adhere to a number of simple rules for caring for plants:

Mandatory agricultural practices are:

  • planting seedlings with deepening of the root collar by 3-5 cm and cutting off the shoots so that 2-3 buds remain above the ground;
  • timely watering and mulching of the soil with peat, compost or humus; replacement of bushes older than 7 years old with young plants;
  • correct annual pruning, in which 2-3 best basal shoots are left every year, and the rest are cut out.

Attention!

You can not make fresh manure for planting currants, you should use it carefully nitrogen fertilizers. The best top dressing for berry growers, it remains to add humus and wood ash for digging.

  • In autumn, foliage is collected, berries dried on the bushes are removed, and the aisles are dug up.
  • Before the onset of frost, you should inspect and clean the exfoliated bark on the branches and burn it.
  • In the spring, before the juice begins to move, old and diseased shoots affected by powdery mildew, mites or insect larvae are cut out. The cut sites are disinfected with a 1% solution of copper sulphate and covered with garden pitch.

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