What fertilizers are needed when planting peppers. Mass flowering period

In order to get a good harvest, the site begins to be prepared in the fall. Most the best fertilizer for planting bell pepper - cow or horse dung as well as bird droppings.

Organic matter is introduced into the soil autumn digging site. Manure consumption per 1 m3 is approximately 2–3 kg. This amount is enough to provide the plant with all the necessary substances for the first time.

Also, the introduction of manure into the soil makes it looser and softer. All thanks to the vital activity of earthworms. During the winter, the manure rots and in the spring the soil is ready for planting.

The only disadvantage of such a fertilizer is the high probability of introducing pests and their eggs onto the site. So the bear (or cabbage) is a serious enemy of seedlings of pepper and other vegetable crops. It is quite difficult to get her out of the area.

Seedling feeding

It is important to organize proper care for pepper from its very first days of growth.

1. For planting, it is recommended to choose not a simple soil with suburban area, and a special substrate for seedlings. It is already rich in nutrients that will contribute to the normal development of plants at first.
2. When 3 true leaves have already appeared on the seedlings, you need to feed the bell pepper with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. This feeding enhances the growth above-ground parts, which in turn improves the process of photosynthesis and the accumulation of starch.

Feeding seedlings with folk remedies

As a prevention of various diseases and to stimulate the growth of crops, it is also recommended to feed the Bulgarian Bell pepper with this mixture:

• whey 0.5 l;
• iodine 3 - 4 drops;
• hydrogen peroxide 1 tsp.

All components are mixed immediately before use. The liquid is vigorously shaken and sprayed onto the leaves and stems of pepper with a spray gun. Such foliar top dressing also helps control small pests such as aphids, spider mite, thrips.

Feeding during transplantation

It is necessary to feed the Bulgarian pepper during transplantation to permanent beds. Regardless of whether the bushes will grow in open ground or in a greenhouse, the application of mineral fertilizers is mandatory.

In each hole put 2 tbsp. l. wood ash and mix them well with the soil. This is enough for the plant to take root, to grow.

In 2 weeks

It is recommended to fertilize pepper for the first time after planting in the ground no earlier than 2 weeks later.

During this time, the roots damaged during transplantation are restored, thereby establishing root nutrition. Seedlings are already able to normally absorb nutrients from the soil.

Immediately after planting, the seedlings begin to prepare the infusion for feeding. For complete readiness, he needs to wander for at least 10 - 14 days. Prepare it from:

• mullein;
• bird droppings;
• water;
• onion peel.

All components are mixed in a container. From time to time, the fertilizer needs to be mixed or shaken. Pour the liquid under the very root, trying not to get on the leaves and stems. Pre-feeding is diluted 1:10 with water.

Top dressing during flowering and ovary formation

Fertilize the bushes a second time at the first sign of flower formation and flowering. At this stage, the young plant needs potassium and phosphorus. The ideal option will become superphosphate and potassium sulfate. You will need to dilute 30 g of each fertilizer in 1 bucket. This volume is enough to feed 7 - 10 bushes.

To form an ovary, pepper needs a balance of mineral and organic fertilizers. To do this, follow the instructions for using top dressing.

As organics, herbal infusion is introduced into the soil:

1. Weed grass is finely chopped and placed in a deep container. You can use for this purpose plastic flasks of 5 - 7 liters. Plants should be selected without mature seed plants. Otherwise, the seeds will quickly germinate in the beds.
2. Live yeast is bred in warm water. They are taken at the rate of 100 g per 5 liters of water. It is also recommended to add to this mixture 2 tbsp. l. sugar for the accelerated development of yeast colonies.
3. The solution is poured over the grass and left in the sun for 10 days. After the fermentation stops, the infusion is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. They water the plants 2 liters under each bush.

To make up for this shortcoming, food waste is introduced into the beds. For this, cutting vegetables and fruits are suitable, eggshell, tea brewing, coffee grounds etc. All this is buried in the ground in autumn and during the winter turns into a nutrient medium for plants.

Conclusion

Growing pepper requires timely feeding. Observing all the requirements of the agricultural technology of this crop, you can achieve good results even on poor soils. An overabundance of fertilizers can cause a lack of a crop or a bush stopping in growth. In addition, substances can accumulate in fruits.

Lagerstroemia or Indian lilac

Lagerstromia or Indian lilac, is a genus of shrubs and small trees with a colorful lush bloom. In the everyday life of Russian flower growers, it is known as Indian lilac, but this is actually only one of 25 existing species lagerstroemia. The charming southern beauty got her name in honor of the German merchant Magnus von Lagerstrom. He gave away plant seedlings to the governors of Mediterranean cities. Lagerstromia comes from China, however, it began to spread from India, it is also found naturally in Asia and mainland Australia.

At home and in the garden, subject to the conditions of detention, lagerstromia blooms for a long time: from July to the end of October. Closed rounded buds of a green hue are more reminiscent of berries. When the flowers bloom with wavy petals along the edges, the racemose inflorescence will become lush. Color range from white to lilac and red. It is interesting that at the same time flowers of different colors open on the same bush. The fruits are in the form of segmented capsules with seeds.

Care rules

Relatively general rules care: lighting lagerstromia needs bright and diffused, it is important to keep it warm all year round, regular watering and top dressing. Annual spring pruning will be required to maintain a neat shape and neat appearance.

Indian lilacs are susceptible to inappropriate conditions and flowering may be short-lived or sparse. The beauty of the inflorescences is affected by lighting and pruning. For diseases and pests houseplants more resistant, and with respect to garden ones, preventive spraying is carried out.

• Keep the lighting bright diffused, the temperature is required at 24 ° C.
• Crops should be aired daily to prevent mold, if necessary, moisten the soil surface by spraying with a fine mist sprayer.
• Sprouts will begin to appear after 2-4 weeks.
• We get rid of the shelter and water moderately.
• After unfolding a pair of true leaves, we transplant them into separate preferably peat pots for more convenient transshipment into open ground or flowerpot.
• Try not to damage the roots, carefully pry the seedling with a spatula and transfer it to a pot.

Further care is simple: provide good lighting with long daylight hours and room temperature air. Provide dry air, take care of spraying the leaves or install a humidifier nearby. Outdoors, Lagerstromia grows best in medium-moisture, well-drained soils in full sun. Feels good on loamy, clay soils with good drainage. Prefers slow release fertilizer conditions. Thick black earth is not suitable for a beauty. It is advisable to plant on a cultivated garden soil with the addition of coarse sand. excessive fertile soils tend to cause lush growth foliage at the expense of flowering, the plant has an increased susceptibility to winter injuries. Does not tolerate flooding and stagnant water.

Pepper - perennial shrub plant, in our climate cultivated as an annual. Its fruits, both fresh and canned, are used to prepare many popular dishes. Grow it in conditions middle lane not the most simple task. But it's not that complicated. If weeding, loosening, watering and top dressing of pepper are carried out on time, then good result guaranteed. Since this crop has a rather long growing season, pepper cultivation in most parts of the country begins as early as February. This helps the plant to gain strength in comfortable conditions so that after a month and a half after transplanting into the ground, begin to bloom and bear fruit.

Seedling

Planting with germinated seeds

Pepper seedlings can be expected for a very long time, so plant them on seedlings begin in late January - early February. To speed up the process of obtaining sprouts from seeds, you can use the pre-soaking technique. Placed in a cotton rag planting material, pour warm water and leave for two or three days. To avoid souring, the fabric can be rinsed a couple of times, after carefully laying out the seeds from it, which, after the procedure is completed, must be returned to their place.

"Soaked" peppers germinate in three to five days. Sprouts may appear in a week, but for further cultivation they are not suitable. From such "thoughtful" seeds, very weak and infertile bushes are obtained. Therefore, all the “sitting out” must be thrown out, you should not waste your time and effort, they will not give a good harvest.

Planting dry seeds

The method of pre-sprouting peppers has both followers and opponents. The latter argue that excess fluid at the stage of spitting a sprout from seeds leads to subsequent rotting of the stem. young plant. This phenomenon is often referred to as "black leg".

When growing pepper without pre-soaking, the following technology must be observed - dry seeds are buried in moist soil to a depth of 0.5-1 cm, the pot is covered with foil and placed in a warm place until the first shoots appear. As soon as they appear, the shelter is immediately removed. If you do not cover the ground with a film, then the top layer dries out quickly. Here you can do a very common the mistake is to start watering the ground every day, as a result of which the seeds will rot.

Land preparation

For planting seedlings, use the same soil composition as for the subsequent cultivation of peppers in the garden:

Peat, humus, garden soil disinfected with potassium permanganate, are taken in a ratio of 1: 1: 2, thoroughly mixed.

The finished soil mixture is placed in peat pots or plastic cups, lightly tamped. Watered with water with the addition of a growth stimulator. Leave for a couple of days for the earth to fall off, if necessary, add more. After that, they start landing.

Transfer

It is believed that pepper does not tolerate transplanting, so most often its seedlings are grown in peat pots. But they are not very cheap. You can use cropped ones instead. plastic bottles from under milk, soda, cups from sour cream and fermented baked milk, with a capacity of at least 500 grams, in the bottom of which several holes are made using a red-hot knitting needle.

In order to transplant plants from plastic cups, there is a technology that has been developed over the years. First of all, the pepper needs to be watered. After that, the container is placed on its side, and gently squeezed. Pepper, along with a clod of earth, is released from the pot.

When transplanting into the wells, you can apply fertilizer for pepper. Typically, such a composition is used - 0.3 cups, 0.5 shovels of humus. All this is mixed with the earth at the bottom of the hole, and watered. A pepper is lowered into the liquid, carefully supporting it from below so that a clod of earth does not crumble. After that, the roots are carefully straightened, and sprinkled with soil thrown back when digging a hole. Form a hole, and water again.

open ground

For open ground, usually choose early maturing varieties and hybrids, short term vegetation, for example, California miracle F1", "Gift of Moldova", "Sweet Banana", " orange wonder”, “Cardinal F1”. They do not need to form a bush, and have a compact ripening time. This property is especially relevant in regions with temperate climate where it is necessary to remove ripened products before the onset of frosts and cold night fogs, which cause fruit rotting.

When growing peppers in open ground, do not forget about crop rotation. A bad predecessor for this crop would be potatoes. It pumps out almost all phosphorus from the soil, and peppers, for which this substance is vital, develop poorly and bear fruit. But, and they will be excellent predecessors.

Pepper loves fertile loamy soils. But he does not tolerate heavy clays, as they often turn sour. Therefore, with an excess of such soil in the area intended for growing pepper in open ground, it must be lightened. They do this with the help of sand, or peat, introducing them when digging. In parallel, well-rotted organics can be added. Suitable stale cow or mutton manure, two-year-old compost. But it’s better not to bring in chicken manure when planting, it’s too hot. This organic fertilizer will be needed later, for fertilizing in the aisles.

For growing peppers in open ground, they form high beds, tamp their ends, and give a couple of days to draft. After that, sprinkle with powder. In this case, this mineral fertilizer is used as a pesticide - it effectively fights pathogenic microflora, fungi, mosses, and mold. And after a series of waterings, phosphorus will get to the roots of plants, where it will gradually be absorbed, and will serve as an additional, very valuable top dressing that helps improve the taste of fruits.

In the southern regions, pepper is grown by direct sowing in beds. This helps to avoid damage to the root system during transplants, after which the plant is sick for a while. Accordingly, this time falls out of the general vegetative plan, the ripening dates are postponed.

But in regions with a temperate climate, conditions do not allow growing peppers in a seedless way. In the spring, 2-3 monthly plants are planted in prepared beds. In order for them to take root better and suffer less from changes in the surrounding microclimate, immediately after landing over them, you can build a greenhouse- arches plus non-woven covering material. Under shelter, which is sure to be opened on fine warm days, peppers will live for the first two to three weeks. During this time, they will take root well, and will be able to gain strength. Then the mini-greenhouse can be removed.

Another practical and economical way to protect your plantings from a drop in temperature at the beginning of summer is to use plastic five-liter water bottles with a cut bottom for shelter. These are excellent local mini-greenhouses. They are convenient to use, they are light and mobile, and also do not take up much space when stored, as they are compactly folded into one another, like nesting dolls.

Growing pepper in open ground is possible in many regions of the Russian Federation. Pre-hardened and well-established seedlings normally tolerate a short drop in temperature. For example, in 2014, at the end of June, a strong hail passed over some areas of the Pskov region. It was so abundant that it covered the ground with an ice carpet about 5 cm thick. The air temperature dropped to 3 °C. It seemed that peppers, which are mainly grown in the open field in this region, would surely die. But, as it turned out, everything is not so bad. When the rain stopped and the sun came out, the drooping plants perked up, straightened their leaves, and continued to grow, as if nothing had happened, bringing a good harvest in the fall.

Greenhouse

When peppers are grown indoors, higher yields are obtained. Appearance greenhouse products are also usually more attractive than those grown in the open field. What causes such differences? The fact is that pepper loves warmth and moisture, as well as well-lit places protected from open winds, and such conditions are easiest to create when growing bell pepper in a greenhouse.

The soil for planting this crop begins to be prepared after it dries out slightly (if the greenhouse has a collapsible roof that was removed for the winter). But in a polycarbonate greenhouse, the ground must be updated and disinfected, the room itself must be well ventilated. So, what should be the soil for growing bell peppers in a greenhouse? The same as for soil varieties - nutritious, light, loose. But, unlike open ground, they bring in closed ground large quantity sorbent, which, in this case, acts. It will absorb excess moisture from the air, and like a sponge, absorb it, keeping it until the roots of the plant need it. It will also serve as a fertilizer for pepper, as it contains a large number of nitrogen and trace elements.

Greenhouse soil before growing peppers must be well disinfected. The easiest way to do this is with potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate), which is diluted with warm water until a light pink hue is obtained. The application rate of this solution is 0.5 liters per 1 sq.m.

To increase the fertility of the soil intended for growing pepper, it is fertilized in advance. You can use both mineral and organic top dressing, as well as their combinations. For example, you can use:

• Hot water solution. For 10 liters of water, take 1 liter of liquid manure, 1 tablespoon of copper sulfate, and water the land in the greenhouse (5 liters per 1 square meter) a week before planting seedlings.
• Agrochemicals can also be used as a fertilizer for peppers. For example, for 1 sq.m. you can add 20 g of simple superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate and 20 g of azofoska.
• With signs of souring, the land in the greenhouse is treated with ash or dolomite flour to reduce acidity.
• To improve the structure of the soil, rotted sawdust, manure, peat are added to it. Also, for this purpose, you can use crushed.
• If the soil for growing bell peppers in a greenhouse has been prepared since autumn, then it can be charged with mineral fertilizers in advance. Since for winter period some of them will go to the soil complex, then the norms of autumn application will be higher - they take about 50 g of superphosphate per square meter, and the same amount of potassium sulfate. As a source of nitrogen, you can add 5 kg per sq. m. semi-decomposed compost, it will reach during the winter. In the spring, the ground in the greenhouse needs to be dug up again.

Varieties for growing bell peppers in a greenhouse can be selected with more long term vegetation than for open ground. For example, you can choose exotics such as the Czech hybrid Amika F1, with beige fruits. Of the beautiful peppers, varieties and hybrids such as the Golden Pheasant, the Sun, and the Orange Miracle are very popular with summer residents. Of the red varieties in the greenhouse, you can grow "Veronica", "Anastasia", "Kolobok", "Shorokshary".

Choosing neighbors

In one greenhouse, it is very common to grow several plants at once. For example, peppers with, eggplant and various herbs, as well as flower seedlings. In principle, none of these cultures has negative impact on others from the list, does not suppress "competitors involuntarily." With such close proximity in the closed space of the plant, another danger lies in wait. They may overspray. So do not plant eggplants and peppers nearby if you do not want to receive products of strange color and taste. But next to tomatoes, flowers and herbs, nothing threatens peppers. Tomato flowers are on a fundamentally different level of height, and flowers and spices belong to a different species.

Pepper fertilizer

For feeding pepper, you can use both organic and mineral fertilizers. During active growth Plants are best applied in liquid form. The following recipes (for 10 liters of water) received the greatest popularity among summer residents:

Nettles with leaves, but without seeds, and poured with water. Within a week, the mixture is fermented. It must be diluted before use. The result should be a liquid that resembles the color of weakly brewed tea.

After any top dressing of pepper and subsequent watering, the soil should be mulched with straw, hay or non-woven material.

Pest protection

To get a good harvest, it is important not only to feed the pepper, but also to protect it from pests in a timely manner. Preventive actions must be carried out even if there are no pests on the plant, and start the fight at the slightest hint of the presence harmful insects or pathogenic flora. There are many methods of pest control, here are the most common ones:

• From slugs, dusting the plants with tobacco, ash and lime helps. They can also be collected by hand and destroyed in a jar of kerosene.
• Spider mite is afraid soap solution. For its preparation, a piece of soap is left overnight in a bucket of water, and in the morning the resulting suspension is treated with plants.
• When growing pepper, many gardeners are faced with such an insidious pest as the common aphid. In the fight against it, folk remedies help little, so it is necessary to use industrial insecticides.

Video: Pepper Cultivation Workshop