How to fertilize the earth in spring: organic and mineral top dressing. The technology of proper top dressing in the spring

In the spring, one of the main tasks is to fertilize the soil. What fertilizers to choose for this and how to fertilize the land in the spring in the country, if there is no manure? This will be discussed in this article.

Often green manure is increasingly used as a fertilizer in garden plots. Siderates are plants that are sown and then plowed into the ground, thereby improving its composition. The following crops are used as green manure crops:

• buckwheat;
• wheat
• oats;
• lupine;
• mustard and some other plants.

When sowing plants for fertilizer, those of them are selected that have well-developed roots and a large number of vegetative mass. Such plants should have a short growth period, which is why they are planted as green manure. . What plants to plant to improve the soil depends on its condition. Grain crops planted as fertilizer are equal in productivity to horse or cow manure.

Green manure is often used as a fertilizer in garden plots.

The root system of such plantings is well branched, it loosens the soil, while enriching it with oxygen., the structure of the soil is improved, the upper layer of the earth is healed. In the process of growing such plantations, the soil is more saturated with moisture, its acidity decreases, and the soil is disinfected. And the soil retains these positive qualities for several years after growing green manure on it.

Legumes planted on the site saturate the soil with nitrogen and phosphorus. These elements contribute to the rapid growth of the vegetative mass. horticultural crops and fruit trees. And rye is a supplier of potassium to the soil. Rye grows very fast, so it can be used as a green manure not only in the autumn, but also in the spring, immediately after the snow melts. Marigolds or marigolds should be used to disinfect the area. In order to more successfully fight the Colorado potato beetle on the site, you should regularly use parsnips or alfalfa as green manure.

When choosing what to plant on the site to improve the composition of the soil, it should be remembered that vegetable crops grow better after certain plants. Rye promotes better growth of potatoes, tomatoes or cucumbers.

In spring, plants like green manure are usually planted in near-stem circles of fruit trees. These plantings throughout the season will improve the soil with minerals and nitrogen, will not allow weeds to grow and multiply, and at the time of flowering of fruit trees, these plants will attract flying insects and thereby improve the pollination of trees.

Organic fertilizers for summer cottages (video)

Fertilizing the land with manure in spring

In the spring, fresh manure is not introduced into the soil, because it can burn the root system of planted vegetable plants. Therefore, rotted soil is usually used as top dressing in spring. horse dung or cow. Usually, manure is harvested during the summer and autumn, and brought into the ground only in early spring. This organic fertilizer saturates the soil with nitrogen, which is essential for cultivated plants during the growth period - this microelement accelerates the growth of shoots and vegetative mass. In addition to nitrogen, manure contains other macro and microelements necessary for the full development of cultivated plants in the garden.

Usually, manure should be applied to the soil immediately after the snow has melted. Usually, this organic fertilizer is spread over the area just before digging the soil after the ground has warmed up sufficiently after winter. However, when organic fertilizers are applied should be remembered that their excess is also harmful to plants, as well as the shortage. 10 kg of manure is applied per 1 m 2 of soil - this amount of this organic fertilizer is quite enough to saturate the soil with useful substances.

As top dressing of the soil in the spring, rotted horse manure or mullein is usually used.

If there is not too much manure to fertilize the entire garden with it, then this rotted organic fertilizer is applied directly to the planting holes.

Slurry can also be used as top dressing in the spring. She's being cooked in the following way: rotted manure is diluted with liquid (5 liters of water are taken per 1 kilogram of manure). Such fruit trees and planted vegetable plants are fertilized with liquid top dressing in spring. Berry bushes, strawberries, apple trees, pears, stone fruit trees are especially responsive to such top dressing.

The introduction of rotted manure improves the composition of the soil, so it is also used as mulch. The application of this organic fertilizer helps plants absorb the applied nutrients faster and better. mineral supplements. So experienced gardeners and introduce manure into the soil during the spring.

When there was no rotted manure in the spring, it can be replaced with wood ash

How to fertilize the land if there is no manure

When there was no rotted manure in the spring, it can be replaced with other organic matter. It can be:

• chicken manure;
• riding peat;
• rotted compost mass;
• sawdust from trees;
• straw;
• wood ash and other similar fertilizers.

These top dressings, when introduced into the soil, contribute to its loosening, enrich the depleted soil with the necessary macro and microelements, help build up the vegetative mass and develop all cultivated plants Location on.

How to apply mineral fertilizers (video)

When and how to feed the earth in spring with mineral fertilizers

In addition to organics, mineral additives should also be added in the spring. Gardeners select the composition of such fertilizers, taking into account the general condition of the soil, the crops that will be planted in specific areas, and many other factors.

The term for applying mineral dressings in the spring depends on when the snow melts in the garden. It is not worth scattering such dressings on the snow that has not melted. – most of fertilizers can “float away” with melt water. Mineral fertilizers can be applied to tree trunks even when the earth has not completely thawed. But under the planted vegetable crops, mineral supplements are poured directly prepared holes.

The term for applying mineral dressings in the spring depends on when the snow melts in the garden.

In the spring, the following mineral fertilizers are applied to the soil:

1. Containing nitrogen (ammonium nitrate, urea, ammonium sulfate). These top dressings accelerate the gaining of vegetative mass by plants, stimulate the growth of the root system, and contribute to obtaining high yields.
2. Fertilizers containing phosphorus (superphosphates and double superphosphates) are also very important for plants in the spring. After all, these trace elements stimulate the growth of plants, as well as their development. The rate of application of such fertilizers is considered to be 1 glass per 1 m2.

When using mineral fertilizers as spring dressings, it is necessary to strictly adhere to all instructions for the use of these additives, as well as the doses required for application to the soil. This takes into account the types of soil in which fertilizers are applied, and those plants that need to be fed.

The main disadvantage when applying mineral dressings in the spring is their possible leaching from the soil during the spring rains.

When using mineral fertilizers as spring dressings, it is necessary to strictly adhere to all instructions for the use of these additives.

Features of the application of nitrogen fertilizers

When applying nitrogen fertilizers, the following features should be considered:

1. Nitrogen contributes to the growth of vegetative mass, rapid growth shoots and root system, therefore, it is applied under any plants and trees in a certain period - in spring and early summer - when these cultivated plants are actively growing. But during the period of flowering, fruiting and subsequent preparation for winter, nitrogen should not be applied so as not to provoke excessive foliage growth in trees and shrubs to the detriment of a ripening crop.
2. The amount of nitrogen in the soil should be sufficient for plants, but its excess is harmful. Therefore, you should not get carried away with the introduction of organic fertilizers (especially mullein or other types of manure) and adhere to certain standards when applying such fertilizers.

Nitrogen contributes to the growth of the vegetative mass, the rapid growth of shoots and the root system

Universal fertilizers for horticultural and horticultural crops

There are a large number on sale that contain all the necessary mineral elements and other nutrients needed by plants. The introduction of such complex dressings allows you to immediately introduce into the soil all the elements that are needed. And the composition of such fertilizers can be different- depending on the type of soil and the characteristics of the growth of cultivated plants grown on the site.

When using these top dressings, it is necessary to follow the instructions for their use and in no case reduce or increase the dosage unnecessarily.

Spring is the base period for all plants. Developing horticultural and horticultural crops need a complete feeding with nutrients so that in the fall they bring bountiful harvest. To achieve good results, the gardener must know which fertilizers can be applied in the spring, and which ones are better to refuse.

Spring top dressing

With the onset of warm days, trees and perennials enter the growing season. After winter dormancy, sap flow and active growth begin. A similar process occurs in garden crops planted with seedlings or sown with grains in the ground. Plants try to gain strength by absorbing nutrients from the earth. However, even the most fertile soil unable to provide adequate nutrition without human intervention. The way out of the situation is top dressing with organic and mineral fertilizers.

Soil enrichment cannot be done by everyone that comes to hand. Each plant, tree or shrub requires a balanced and complete feeding with those substances that are lacking in the soil. Experienced vegetable growers independently make up a combined diet of mineral and organic fertilizers, guided by soil analyzes.

It is important to know! Fertilizer applied to the soil more than the prescribed norm will only harm the plant. An excess of nutrients will result in a poor harvest.

Terms of work

Deciding what fertilizer to apply and how much is half the battle. Need to know optimal timing carrying out work so that top dressing is beneficial. Conventionally, the time of fertilization in the spring is divided into three periods:

1. Soil fertilization in the snow. The biggest mistake is to scatter mineral fertilizers in early spring over the unmelted snow cover. Most of the nutrients will go with melt water outside the garden. Unfertilized areas will appear, as well as places with a large accumulation of minerals. The method is suitable only for large farms that have not fed the fields in the fall, and a large amount of work lies ahead in early spring. Organics in the snow, in general, cannot be scattered.
2. Fertilizing the soil before sowing or planting seedlings. An ideal period for all cultures. The fertilizer will have time to dissolve, evenly distributed throughout the area. The root system of a young plant will immediately receive nutrients after planting. To achieve the optimal effect, the scattered fertilizer is covered with a layer of earth.
3. Applying fertilizer to the hole during sowing or planting seedlings. An effective but dangerous method that requires a lot of experience. The root system immediately receives a large concentrate of substances. Mistakes with the dose will destroy the plant.

A novice gardener should adhere to the second period of fertilizing the soil - before planting garden crops. This rule is also suitable for flower growers. Fruit trees can be fed even before the ground around the trunk is completely thawed.

Advice! With any feeding option, you should not immediately apply a large portion of fertilizer. It is better to divide the process into 2-3 times at short intervals.

organic fertilizers

The most popular top dressing in rural areas is organic. Fertilizer for many gardeners is free, but it works no worse than store-bought products.

Compost

Effective fertilizer consists of decomposed organic waste. The rotting process takes place in a pit or heap fenced with shields. For the preparation of compost, the tops of garden crops, weeds, sawdust, foliage from trees, and any food waste are used. fast decay organics occurs at a temperature of +40 o C.

Properly prepared compost can replace mineral fertilizers. To do this, organics are not just randomly thrown into a heap, but alternate wet and dry layers. Succulent vegetation is mixed with sawdust or dry foliage. Complete nutrients are obtained by adding bird droppings or fresh manure from pets. Phosphorus flour will help enrich organic matter with microelements. For 100 kg of decaying waste, 2 kg of the substance is added. Peat gives good results, but it forms an acidic environment. Wood ash will help restore balance.

Advice! To speed up decay, each layer of organic waste is sprinkled with earth. In a hot dry summer, a bunch is watered, but the water should not stand in a puddle. Retain moisture and maintain optimal temperature film cover will help.

Manure

Organics are obtained from used pet bedding. The basis is fresh manure mixed with straw, grass or wood shavings. The fertilizer is rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and others. useful material. To prepare manure, the dirty litter is piled up and covered on top. plastic wrap. The rotting process lasts at least 1 year. The finished organics are scattered with pitchforks over the site and evenly distributed with a rake.

Attention! Not rotted manure can only be used for warm beds.

Humus

The composition of organic matter includes manure or compost that has rotted for two or more years. Ready humus is determined by friability and earthy smell. The substance obtained is considered universal fertilizer suitable for top dressing, mulching, adding to the wells when planting seedlings.

bird droppings

In terms of the amount of useful substances, organic matter is ahead of mullein. Pure manure is highly concentrated and is used only for composting. In a diluted form, organic matter is ideal for feeding garden crops, especially tomatoes. Sourdough is made from 1 part manure and 10 parts water. The fermented infusion is diluted with water at the rate of 1:4 and the plants are poured under the root with this solution.

Ash

The most useful ash for vegetation is obtained by burning young tree branches and straw. The substance is rich in potassium, which helps to reduce the acidity of the soil. Ash serves as a good top dressing for most garden crops, except for carrots. Tomatoes, potatoes, sweet peppers react well to the substance.

Peat

If the site is not located on peatlands, then this organic matter will have to be bought. Peat is used in the arrangement of beautiful lawns. The substance is evenly scattered over the site, crushed with earth, and after a day they begin to sow the seeds. Peat is well suited for soil mulching, especially around the trunks of three-year-old apple tree seedlings.

Bacterial fertilizers

The drug is more used in the cultivation of flowers, as well as garden crops. The composition contains living microorganisms that help plants absorb nutrients from the soil. A prime example humus acts, but there are also more concentrated preparations. Bacterial fertilizers are applied in spring to warm soil during seed sowing.

Sapropel

The tablet preparation is made from organic deposits of the bottom of the reservoir. Tablets are applied during soil preparation or during crop sowing. The drug is covered with earth, otherwise it is useless.

Mineral fertilizers

Fertilizing with minerals helps to increase yields, develop plants, and normalize the acid balance of the soil. Fertilizers can neutralize acid or, conversely, oxidize alkaline soil. The composition includes inorganic substances that protect garden crops from fungal diseases. Packaged fertilizers are sold. Each package contains instructions for use. Plants are fed with minerals annually.

Nitrogen

This type of fertilizer includes: urea, saltpeter and ammonium sulfate.

Top dressing with these substances is in demand for soil where organic matter was not added. Nitrogen-containing preparations are used in early spring in initial period plant vegetation. Fertilizers do not tend to accumulate in the ground, which is why they are applied periodically in parts of 300 g / m 2. Nitrogen contributes to the growth, development and flowering of the plant, as well as the formation of the ovary.

Potash

The preparations are applied to the soil at the rate of 200 g/m 2 . Potassium develops the resistance of green spaces to cold weather and even a drop in temperature to a negative level. Fertilizer accelerates the ripening of fruits, promotes branching of the root system.

Phosphoric

In spring, phosphorus-containing substances are in demand by plants along with nitrogen. The following preparations are best known to gardeners: double superphosphate, phosphate rock and superphosphate.

Phosphorus contributes to the rapid growth of the plant stem and its further development. The drug is applied at the rate of 250 g / m 2 land plot.

Mineral fertilizers differ in composition. The simplest are single-component preparations. For spring feeding complex fertilizers are more in demand. They are composed of several minerals containing nutritional and protective components. Complex preparations increase plant immunity, which prevents the development of fungal and bacterial diseases.

Factory-made fertilizers are general use and specially designed systems for certain culture, for example: "Bulba" - for potatoes, and "Kemira-Universal" - for garden trees.

Attention! When applying mineral fertilizers, it is important to comply with the dosage indicated in the instructions. In this case, you need to know the type of soil. Well, if there is an opportunity to make an analysis of the land from the site.

Any garden crop and ornamental plant is demanding on a certain substance, whether it be a mineral or organic.

Potato

Top dressing of the culture is carried out in a continuous or hole way. In a large garden, a continuous method is acceptable. Top dressing is evenly scattered throughout the site. The composition of the mixture depends on the type of soil.

For infertile land:

• compost or manure - 5 kg;
• ammonium sulfate - 3 kg;
• superphosphate - 3 kg;
• potassium-containing drug -2.5 kg.

For nutrient soil:

• compost or manure - 2 kg;
• ammonium sulfate - 2 kg;
• superphosphate - 1.5 kg;
• potassium-containing drug - 1.5 kg.

In the hole version, fertilizer is applied to each hole during planting of tubers. The method is suitable for the owner small plot. However, it is more convenient to plant potatoes for three people: one works with a shovel, the second pours fertilizer, the third lays tubers in the holes. Potatoes are fed with a mixture of 1 liter of manure with 0.5 liters of ash. This amount is calculated per well.

tomatoes

Tomatoes love prepared soil. It is better to do this in the fall or, in extreme cases, in early spring. In the beds before planting seedlings, the earth is mixed with peat, manure and loamy soil is added. For top dressing at the initial stage, organic matter is used. Of the store preparations, superphosphate and complex fertilizers are best suited. Minerals are added once every 2 weeks.

cucumbers

High warm beds are prepared for culture. The filler is manure or humus, straw and earth. The bed can be made not high by immersing the filler deep into the ground. Under top layer organic matter will begin to overheat the earth, releasing heat to the roots of cucumbers.

Cabbage

The culture is demanding on nitrogen. On the 10th day after transplanting, seedlings are fertilized with urea no more than 10 g/m 2 . After 22 days, add superphosphate dissolved in water at the rate of 15 g of the substance per 10 liters of water. The proportions are calculated for white cabbage. Top dressing of other varieties is performed with similar preparations. For cauliflower, double the dose.

Strawberry

With the onset of spring, the bushes are cleared of hatched weeds and insulating shelter from foliage or sawdust. The soil is loosened, and mulched with peat on top. The first feeding is carried out with a nitrogen-containing solution. It is possible to scatter saltpeter granules under the bushes before mulching. After the appearance of the first leaves of the plantation, they are poured with mineral-organic solutions. The taste of berries is enhanced by potassium-containing preparations.

Currant

If initially the pit was well fertilized, then the first feeding of the shrub is required in the second year. Currants respond well to nitrogen-containing fertilizers and organics. An adult bush needs 15 kg of humus in the spring. If the choice fell on organic matter, then mineral nitrogen-containing substances are not added.

Raspberry

The most demanding and capricious shrub for feeding. It is better to fertilize raspberries with humus or compost. The earth is loosened for better penetration moisture and oxygen to the roots. From above, the soil is mulched with peat. Surface top dressing is carried out by spraying with solutions containing bromine with zinc.

Fruit trees

In early March, when the buds have not yet swelled on the trees, superphosphate is scattered around the trunks, mixing it with the ground. Early terms are due to the properties of phosphorus. The substance must be in the ground for a long time in order to become a useful fertilizer for fruit tree. After warming up the soil, wood ash with humus is added. By the end of May, the trees are fertilized with potassium, which improves the taste of the fruit.

What not to apply in the spring

Not all fertilizers can be used in the spring on your site. First of all, it is worth abandoning fresh manure, if we are not talking about warm garden for cucumbers. Plants from such organic matter will receive a minimum of nutrients, and an overabundance will even harm them.

An additional problem will bring weed grass seeds preserved in manure. In the garden, grains will germinate quickly. Weeds will kill cultivated plants, plus they will take away nutrients from the soil.

Saltpeter may fall under the second ban. Fertilizer promotes the formation of an alkaline environment. For soil with large quantity salt impurities, such an effect is unacceptable.

The third preparation, which should be abandoned in the spring, is an expired factory-made complex fertilizer. The substance will not cause much harm. Just fertilizer will be inactive and the plant will not benefit from it.

With the acquisition of experience, gardeners independently make up a diet for their crops, and also give helpful tips beginner farmers:

• For spring top dressing, it is optimal to use complex preparations with a maximum nitrogen content. Since the granules take longer to dissolve, they are applied in mid-March. Nutrient solutions are watered at the end of April.
• When feeding trees, fertilizer is applied with a small indent from the trunk and in a circle. So it is more likely that the substance will penetrate to the root system.
• You can make compost and mulch the soil annually. There will be no harm from this. It is advisable to use manure to fertilize the land 1 time in 2 years. The introduced organic matter cannot be buried deeper than the bayonet of a shovel.

When choosing store fertilizers, preference is given to granular complex preparations. They dissolve in doses, which allows the plant to receive nutrients for a long time.

Conclusion

Any fertilizer is good for a plant or tree if used wisely. A properly formulated nutritious diet will affect a good harvest in the fall. If you overdo it with top dressing, then thick tops with large leaves will grow instead of fruits.

In the spring, along with the awakening of nature, summer residents also become more active, because the hot season is coming. To obtain good harvest in the fall, it is necessary from the beginning of the season to prepare the soil for future beds, picking up the necessary fertilizers in required quantities. At the same time, the needs of the crops with which they plan to plant the beds are taken into account. Experienced gardeners know how to feed the garden and how to do it right. A similar question arises, as a rule, for beginners who decide to master the science of growing vegetables and flowers on their site. The need to fertilize the land is dictated by the annual depletion of resources. If you do not enrich the soil with useful nutrients, then the yield will decrease every year.

Experts consider the spring season the most favorable time for introducing all types of fertilizers into the soil: organic, necessarily pre-prepared, mineral, taken in strictly defined doses, as well as their mixtures. Start the procedure after the completion of the melting of the snow cover. Some amateur gardeners practice spreading top dressing over the snow, but with this method, the introduced substances can “float away” from the site along with melt water.

Fruit trees can be fed without waiting for the near-stem soil to completely thaw. Vegetable and flower crops are recommended to be fed immediately before planting. In order not to forget what fertilizers, where and when to apply, you need to make a plan in advance. In this case, all plants are guaranteed to receive the necessary trace elements in the optimal amount for their development.

When depositing funds, you cannot act on the principle: the more, the better. Because organic and mineral substances introduced in excess can adversely affect the condition of the crops grown. Mineral and mixed top dressings require special care. When working with these types, you must follow the doses indicated on the label.

Organic top dressing: advantages and disadvantages

Organic include:

• manure or humus;
• bird droppings"
• peat;
• compost.

Organics, which loosen the soil perfectly, contain many useful trace elements. In the village, these fertilizers are in abundance in every farmstead, so they can be bought inexpensively. Considering that organic matter is applied once every three years, too much money will not be required for this. The best effect on soil fertility is humus (rotted manure), which is scattered over the site for three to four weeks before digging the earth and planting vegetables.

For spring application to the soil, pre-prepared organic fertilizers are suitable. Decomposed manure, which has turned into humus in a couple of years, increases the fertility of the land many times

A ten-liter bucket of humus is distributed on one square meter of the garden, which can be replaced with peat or compost. Here's how to make your own compost:

Organic top dressing, in addition to obvious advantages, has a number of disadvantages, namely:

• some substances (fresh manure, bird droppings) can simply "burn" the roots of plants;
• a large amount of funds that need to be delivered to the site and distributed with a lot of physical effort;
• the danger of infection with vegetable flies onions and carrots;
• problems with the search in the absence of nearby farms and personal farmsteads;
• strong specific odour.

Is there some more interesting method Mitlider, more on the video:

Here is another video example independent production fertilizers:

Minerals - the key to high yields

It is easier to work with mineral fertilizers, as they are sold in concentrated form in all specialized stores. However, when calculating the volume of their introduction, special care must be taken. The dosages recommended by the manufacturers should be followed, depending on the needs of the crops grown in a particular place. garden plot. Granular phosphorus and nitrogen top dressings are applied in accordance with established norms to the soil in the spring immediately before digging it. In this case, useful trace elements will be in close proximity to the root system of plants. The recommended depth of the granules is approximately 20 cm.

Many gardeners are biased towards mineral nutrition, believing that "chemistry" is harmful to the earth and the plants growing on it. Of course, the structure of the soil does not improve from the introduction mineral resources. For this purpose, organic matter is needed. But plants get access to all the trace elements necessary for growth, such as nitrogen and phosphorus. Potassium-based preparations contribute to more rapid maturation fruits. Complex fertilizers, which include two or even three components in their composition, are able to satisfy the need of plants for all nutrients. Complex top dressing available as a liquid or granules.

Mineral fertilizers in granules are applied in the spring in strictly defined doses to the soil, thereby providing the plants with all the necessary nutrients.

For ten square meters of a garden in the spring, they usually make:

• 300–350 g of nitrogen supplements (ammonium nitrate, urea or urea);
• 250 g - phosphorus agents;
• 200 g - potassium substances that can be replaced with wood ash.

In summer, during intensive plant growth, top dressing is repeated, but the dose of all fertilizers is reduced three times.

Granular superphosphate is a universal nitrogen-phosphorus fertilizer suitable for use on all types of soil. Provides nutrition for crops grown in the country or garden

Unlike organic fertilizers mineral complexes must be applied to the soil annually. And financial resources for the purchase of mineral dressings must be allocated from family budget more. Naturally, the return on investment will not have to wait long. In autumn, the site will delight you with a rich harvest, and flower crops will begin to bring aesthetic pleasure even earlier.

A good harvest can only be obtained on good land, and in order for the land to be good, it must be fertilized. When is the best time to fertilize- spring or autumn? Timing the application of fertilizer to the soil is of great importance. Many agronomists believe that those who fertilize the land with manure taken out in winter make a big mistake. The benefit is minimal. Fertilize the soil in spring, leaving the manure to lie for a month and a half before plowing. In this case, the fertilizer efficiency will almost double. About varieties, timing of application to the soil and effectiveness various kinds fertilizers and will be discussed in this article.

All fertilizers are divided into 3 main groups: organic, mineral and organo-mineral fertilizers.

organic fertilizers

They, in turn, are also divided into 2 groups: animal origin and vegetable origin. Vegetable fertilizers include composts and peat, and animals include manure and bird droppings. When fertilizing with organic substances, the structure of the soil is significantly improved and this contributes to the reproduction of living organisms that benefit both the soil itself and plants. There are also some disadvantages - an imbalance of nutrients can occur, weed seeds can come across in such a fertilizer, and organic matter can cause plant diseases and attract toxic substances.

If you decide to use organic fertilizers, then it is better to use compost. It is prepared quite simply: on an area of ​​\u200b\u200babout 10 square meters. meters, straw 15 cm thick is laid out, then a layer of manure - 20 cm, a layer of peat - 15-20 cm. Phosphorite flour and lime are poured on top, mixed in a 1: 1 ratio. For 1 sq. meter should be poured 50-60 grams of the mixture. A layer of manure 15-20 thick is again covered from above. All layers are covered thin layer soil and withstand 7-8 months.

With regard to fertilizing with manure, in our time the number of cattle has been greatly reduced, and therefore we have to look for an alternative. As plant products for fertilizer, you can use everything that grows and rots: cut grass, fallen leaves, tops and weeds, etc.

It is impossible to fertilize the land with fresh manure. Getting into warm and humid soil, such fertilizer begins to actively decompose and release heat and gases, so the crop can simply “burn out”. Fresh manure is used only for feeding mature plants, diluting it with water and watering the aisles. You can also use dried manure, pouring it in a thin layer between the rows.

It is better to use manure if it has lain for at least a year - during this time it decomposes and turns into humus. It is worth remembering that in its pure form, manure and chicken manure rot worse, so it is better to dilute these animal waste products with straw, foliage, sawdust and even shredded waste paper (it is better to take paper without printing ink).
AT organic fertilizer, as is known, a smaller part of nitrogen is in a soluble form, and a large part is part of insoluble organic compounds. When compost hits the soil, myriads of soil dwellers pounce on it, eating, decomposing, and transforming it. As a result of the activity of microorganisms, insoluble nitrogen gradually turns into a soluble form, which was shown by the analyzes: immediately after the introduction of compost into the soil, the content of soluble nitrogen begins to rise steadily. And then it all depends on the growth rate of the aerial parts of plants. In potatoes, this process is so intense that it “eats away” all the nitrogen prepared for it by soil organisms, therefore, under potatoes, the content of available nitrogen in the soil remains low until early August and begins to rise only when the potato tops stop their violent growth. On carrots, where haulm growth is slow at first, the nitrogen content was quite high until mid-July, and then decreased in line with increased leaf growth.

When fertilizing in autumn plant nutrients are part of the soil organo-mineral complex, and the whole next season the plant lives due to the gradual disintegration of this complex and the release of available nutrients. The speed of this process depends on the activity of microflora, which is determined by external conditions: soil moisture, temperature, looseness, and so on.

In addition, organic fertilizer serves as a source of substances necessary for the formation of humus for soil microorganisms. When applied in autumn, organic fertilizer decomposes more slowly, and the process of its incorporation into humus proceeds more intensively and to a greater extent contributes to increasing soil fertility. If you regularly add compost or manure to the soil in the fall, you can create real black soil in your garden. When applied in spring, organic fertilizer decomposes faster and better supplies plants with soluble nutrients. This is important for plants, since spring and early summer are their period. active growth requiring abundant nutrition. Thus, autumn organic fertilizer contributes more to soil fertility, and spring - to plant nutrition. Both are important.

It goes without saying that this is the solution: we apply compost or manure in the fall, and in spring and summer we feed the plants liquid fertilizers which are easy to make: mullein infusion, fermented nettle infusion or any weeds. To enrich these nitrogen-rich infusions with phosphorus and potassium, bone or phosphate rock and ash are added to them. Another option is to apply most or even half of the compost in the fall, and the rest in the spring.

You can use green top dressing. The main raw material common grass, weeds. The green mass is finely chopped, put in a large container and poured warm water(10 liters of water per 2 kilograms of grass). All this should be fermented for 2 - 3 days, after which you need to stir and strain the solution. Then they feed the plants with the calculation of 3 - 4 liters per 1 square meter. It is necessary to perform the procedure 2 - 3 times with an interval of a week. This solution is useful for vegetable and berry crops, it not only nourishes them, but also protects them from pests and diseases.

Mineral fertilizers

These chemical substances should be used carefully and strictly according to the norm. Usually gardeners and gardeners use nitrogen, potash, manganese, lime and other types of such fertilizers. The most common nitrogen fertilizers include saltpeter, urea, ammonia water and ammonia. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied twice a year - the first time around mid-April, and the second time - in mid-November. The way they are applied is the same in both seasons - fertilizers are scattered by hand, and then the land is cultivated. It is better if the earth is moist at the same time.
Potash fertilizers also significantly increase yields. Usually, potassium in the soil is in a hard-to-reach form, so the need for plants in it is great. It is better to apply potash fertilizers in the autumn period along with manure before the main cultivation of the land.

Phosphate fertilizers are also important for plants. Without this element, the formation of chlorophyll in plants is impossible, therefore, the application of such fertilizers not only increases the yield, but also improves the quality of plant products. Phosphorus fertilizers are scattered on the surface of the soil, and then they dig it up to a depth of about 20 centimeters.

With mineral fertilizer we get the following picture. Immediately after the introduction, a sharp jump in the content of soluble nitrogen was observed: it increased by 5-6 times compared to the initial level and remained at a high level approximately until mid-July. Analyzes showed that at some point there was three times more soluble nitrogen in the soil than was applied with mineral fertilizer. This phenomenon is explained by the fact that mineral fertilizer stimulates the decomposition of soil organic matter and accelerates the release of soluble nitrogen from it. The decay of humus under the influence of mineral fertilizers is a phenomenon that has even received a special name: the priming effect. But in the middle of summer, the peak is replaced by a sharp drop, and the content of soluble nitrogen in both cases - with organic and mineral fertilizers - becomes the same.

It is not difficult to guess what consequences this has for plants. On mineral fertilizers, they grow more intensively, develop abundant leaf mass and give a correspondingly higher yield, although this applies to different crops to a different extent: spinach and potatoes yielded significantly higher yields on mineral fertilizers than on compost, while beans and carrots turned out to be less dependent on nitrogen.

However, when studying the quality of the crop, the advantage turned out to be on the side organic fertilizer. This was manifested in a lower nitrate content, and most importantly, in a significant reduction in storage losses. Both potatoes and carrots grown on organic fertilizers were less affected by fungal diseases.

Mineral fertilizers do not increase soil fertility, but rather destroy it. They can be used for top dressing, but only in very moderate doses so as not to cause excessive growth of leaves and not disrupt the activity of soil microflora. Moreover, it is worth applying mineral fertilizers only if organic fertilizers are applied in autumn, since soil with a high content of organic matter partially removes negative impact mineral fertilizers.

Organo-mineral fertilizers

They are humic compositions of mineral and organic substances. Each drug is used for individual scheme, but there is also general rules. For open soil spraying is used, and for closed - surface irrigation, drip irrigation, sprinkling and manual spraying on the leaves. For seed treatment, 300-700 ml of fertilizers are used per ton of seeds, for foliar feeding - 200-400 mm per 1 hectare of crops, for spraying - 5-10 ml per 10 liters of water, and for drip irrigation- 20-40 ml per 1000 liters of water for irrigation.

Separately, it is worth mentioning plants that improve the soil. These include rape, oil radish, rapeseed, turnip and others. Until recently, only lupine was used to improve the soil, which enriched the earth with nitrogenous mineral fertilizers, but in recent times other equally useful and effective plants became known.

For example, after harvesting, you can sow a plot with rape, which, before the onset of frost, will have time to sprout and grow to a plant with 6-8 leaves in a rosette. In early spring, after the snow has melted, it will begin to grow intensively and should be plowed into the soil before the beginning of May. After that, the earth will be enriched with mineral and organic substances and improve the structure. In addition, the rapeseed contains a large amount of phytoncides, which destroy pathogens in the soil.

If there is a possibility of non-use of the land plot for a whole year, then it can be sown with oil radish. In this case, the soil will receive the necessary norm of nutrients, and there will be much less weeds. Approximately 70 grams of radish seeds go to one hundred square meters of land. For uniform seeding it is better to mix the seeds with river sand.

And a little more about how to properly prepare and fertilize the soil with manure.

We have already discussed in detail how to properly fertilize with chicken manure, now more about manure. Good quality manure is obtained where it is stored in stalls under livestock, trampled down daily, covered with a new layer of straw. During the daily removal of manure, it is accumulated in large manure storages, where it must be shifted for better preservation with peat or earth. It is also useful in cases of daily removal of manure to add to the bedding or put in the gutters of the stables for each head of livestock about 1.5 kg of peat, which, on the one hand, achieves air purification, and on the other hand, preserves slurry containing the main nutrients substances for plants. When manure is covered and layered with earth and peat, all nitrogen. Manure, when preserved in this way, usually acts strongly and quickly. Re-layering of manure with earth is done every 60-90 cm, and a layer of earth of 7-9 cm is superimposed. The richer in humus the earth, the better. A layer of manure of 60-90 cm is again superimposed on this earth, which is again covered in the same way with earth. Manure is always trampled down. The bottom of the manure storage is usually laid out with straw, a layer of 60 cm thick. The straw must be trampled down. The manure storage itself is usually chosen at a high place so that side waters do not flow into it. The slurry water flowing out of the manure storage should be collected in special tanks, and the same slurry must be watered from above with manure. Manure heaps should not be made higher than 2.5 m, because the lower layers of manure are too compacted and heated. by digging too deep into the soil. The more superficially the fertilizer is applied, the better, the faster and more accurate its action. The best thing is to fertilize with manure to the depth of one shovel. If the fertilizer is applied to the soil at a depth of 40 to 50 cm or more, as is unfortunately very often done when planting trees, then oxygen does not have sufficient access, and therefore the fertilizer cannot properly decompose and produce the proper effect on the tree. . Practice has often proved to us that a fertilizer applied too deeply, after a few years, was found in the soil in the same form as when it was applied to the soil, and, consequently, absolutely no benefit came from it.

If you fertilize with manure in the summer, then the fertilizer is always folded into small piles, broken up and plowed as soon as possible. The incorporation of manure should be the finer the heavier the soil. The decomposition of manure is accelerated if, on the fifth or sixth day after ploughing, it is again plowed to the surface and well mixed with the soil. In most cases, it is also beneficial to roll the soil with a heavy roller after fertilizing with manure, since in this case the manure is pressed down to the ground, which ensures its uniform decomposition and causes the rapid germination of weeds, which must be immediately destroyed.
When cultivating cabbage, strawberries and other plants, it is best to use humus from hotbeds or completely decomposed manure, because fresh manure contains a lot of weed seeds and insects easily start up. Under the cover of humus, moisture is stored in the ridges, in addition, rains and water during irrigation wash out all the nutritious juices from the humus into the soil, thus, in one step, both fertilizer and moistening of the ridges are achieved. Putting humus should be a layer of about 5 cm thick, and the plants themselves should not touch the manure, otherwise they may rot. Strawberries should be fertilized with manure especially carefully - so that manure does not get into the core of the bush. Instead of humus, other substances are often used, such as chopped straw, chaff, moss, sawdust, etc.

When buried in the soil, straw and the other materials listed here can also serve as fertilizer, but they rot too slowly and, compared with humus, are too poor in nutrients. On calcareous and sandy soils that differ too much light color, covering the ridges with humus is necessary to change their color so that the heating of the soil occurs more evenly. On dense clayey and light sandy soils, crushed peat can be used with complete success for surface fertilization. In autumn, peat, which has served and completely weathered, is dug into the soil when hoeing and in the first case loosens dense, heavy soil, and in the second it makes light, sandy soil more coherent.

Green manure

Natural organic matter (manure, litter) is not available to everyone, and it costs big money. In the fight against weeds, like a thousand years ago, you have to wave a hoe and crawl on your knees. If the summer is wet, potatoes prevail various diseases, and as a result, in autumn and winter period there is a need for repeated sorting of the crop in order to remove diseased tubers.

Indeed, a lot of labor and money goes to the dacha (subsidiary) farming. Is it possible to alleviate the financial and physical burden that falls on the owner of a garden or a summer cottage?

Yes, you can. Let's start with the fact that in the old days they avoided using fresh manure for potatoes. It was believed that the tubers from it become tasteless and watery. From the diseases accumulated in the soil, they were released using the fruit change. Of course, having several acres of land (each with an area of ​​1.1 hectares), it was possible to organize a three- or seven-field crop rotation. Today, on six acres, this is a rather difficult task. But still, the people do not despair - one sows barley, the second winter rye, and the third dreams of growing peas together with potatoes.

CROSS-FLOWER CROPS
The best option is to sow cruciferous crops as a green manure, consisting of a mixture oilseed radish, white mustard, rapeseed. These plants have been known in world agricultural practice since time immemorial, being close relatives cabbage plants. They came to us from the ancient farmers of East Asia and the Mediterranean. Cruciferous crops are now widely cultivated in economically developed countries (France, Germany, Holland, Sweden, etc.) as phytosanitary and as crops that increase soil fertility.

Oil radish- powerful, highly branched and sprawling plant 1.5-2.0 m high; with corollas of flowers from white to purple. It is not found in the wild flora, wild field species are found. Cold-resistant plant, growth does not stop until late autumn, grows back after mowing. In comparison with white mustard, it is more moisture-loving, shade-tolerant and productive. Seeds and pods taste like radishes. Blooms 35-45 days after sowing.

Mustard white- was one of magical plants ancient Greeks. Even today, having unique properties, serves as a classic object of study of science. The height of her shoots is somewhat lower than that of the oilseed radish, and the flowers on the racemes are yellow. Mustard - the most precocious annual plant. It strongly reacts to the length of the day and the photo period, so the highest yields are obtained during the summer sowing dates - after June 22. Convenient for its precocity and undemanding to the type of soil.

Rape- about 1.2-1.5 m high, light yellow flowers. It is somewhat more demanding on heat than oilseed radish and white mustard. There are spring and winter forms that can turn into each other. The pods of spring rapeseed can open after seed maturation, then the sowing itself takes place, and after overwintering in the spring, part of the young plants grows in the form of a winter form. Sometimes another type is practiced - colza. This is a more "wild" form, inferior to rapeseed in terms of yield, bitter in taste and worse eaten by animals, but better adapted to different types of soils. There are hybrid forms of rapeseed with fodder cabbage, turnip (for example, typhon), which are relatively more productive and stable in various climatic conditions.

USEFUL PROPERTIES OF GREEN FERTILIZER
What are the benefits of cruciferous crops?

Here are 7 of their most distinctive properties:
1. For sowing one hundred square meters of land, only 180-220 g of seeds are required. A denser sowing is used if the biomass is additionally alienated for animal feed. Crops have a very high rate of development, so you can sow in the most different dates from May to September. The best time to receive high yield are June-July. In practice, it is sown repeatedly in 2-3 terms per season. Flowering occurs 30-40 days after germination and lasts until the end of autumn. flowering plants withstand frosts up to - 6 ... 8 ° and even - 12 ° C.

2. The green mass of plants contains the same amount of nutrients as cow dung: nitrogen - 0.5%; phosphorus - 0.25%; potassium - 0.6%. in mass plant residues grown on an area of ​​100 m2, contains the following amount of mineral fertilizers (in conventional terms for chemical composition): 3-5 kg ​​of ammonium nitrate; 2.5-3.5 kg of superphosphate; 3.5-5.0 kg of potassium salt. In addition, the green mass, when incorporated into the soil, deoxidizes it, acting like the introduction of lime, since it has an alkaline content of cell sap.

3. The underground part of plants has the ability to absorb nitrogen from the air, like clover and lupine. Root secretions dissolve mineral inclusions in the soil and convert microelements, phosphorus and potassium into a form accessible to subsequent crops.

4. Decaying cruciferous biomass releases substances into the soil that inhibit and suppress the growth and development of weeds. On a substrate rich in organic matter, saprophytic microflora rapidly develops, which displaces pathogens of agricultural crops from the soil.

5. After harvesting the green mass, along with rotted residues, plant growth and development stimulants from the class of brassinosteroids remain in the soil, increasing the yield and improving the quality of the commercial products of subsequent crops.

6. Green mass is an excellent food for all kinds of animals and birds, contains up to 30-35% of crude protein in terms of dry matter. This is 2 times more than in clover and 3 times more than in barley grain. It is rich in vitamins, unsaturated fatty acids and various nutrients. Regular feeding, even in the form of a small top dressing, strengthens the immune system of young animals, makes it resistant to viral and bacterial aggression. Young, not hardened shoots, having a sweet-burning taste of radish, are a delicacy for children. Radish pods are canned like vegetables. Mustard seeds are used to prepare mustard powder and medicinal ointment from ripened mustard seeds, which are used for various diseases and ailments.

7. Honey-bearing qualities of cruciferous crops are also generally recognized. Their main advantage is in the release of nectar on days even with cold nights. The nectar contains an average of 120-180 kg/ha of sugars. Cruciferous crops provide honey collection in early spring (winter species) and in the second half of summer (spring species), when other honey plants have already faded. Honey crystallizes, so it is removed from the hives for the winter.

AGRICULTURAL TECHNOLOGY

You can sow cruciferous crops for green manure at any time - from early spring and until late autumn. For sowing, a small (required) amount of seeds is mixed with sand in a ratio of 1:50, scattered over the site and harrowed. The optimal seeding depth is 2-3 cm. Cruciferous plants are not demanding on the type of soil, but are responsive to fertilizing with mineral fertilizers, especially nitrogen fertilizers (if the soil is poor).

To some extent shoots early dates crops can be damaged by pests, the probability of such a fact is small in June and July crops. With sparse seedlings, you should not particularly worry, since the yield value is capable of auto compensation, i.e. it depends little on the density (density) of plants per unit area.

When used as a green manure, plant biomass during the flowering phase is mowed, crushed and incorporated into the soil. This is the cheapest type of fertilizer, with which none of the other types can be compared in terms of precocity and economic efficiency. In the northern regions, twice a season, it is possible to "fertilize" the soil in this way. AT middle lane this can be done up to three times.

If the plot is half a hectare or larger, part of the area can be taken out of circulation for 3-4 years by sowing pink clover (on waterlogged and swampy soils), pink clover and lupine (on heavy soils). clay soils), blue alfalfa and oriental goat's rue (on medium and light loams), horned louse and yellow alfalfa (on light and sandy loamy soils).

One of the basic rules organic farming- never leave the soil uncovered. Green manures that grow before, after, or in between major crops create dense foliar coverage. It protects the soil from weathering and mineralization of organic matter, reduces the leaching of nutrients into the deep layers and keeps them in the upper fertile horizon. Such a leaf cover acts as a living leaf mulch, which is especially important for light sandy soils, especially horizon. Therefore, it is recommended, whenever possible, to sow green manure on light soils in the fall and leave it for the winter, and in the spring to embed living or dead plants in the soil.

Green manure also plays an important health role. Firstly, it suppresses the growth of weeds, and in order for it not to become a weed itself, it is necessary to mow or close it up before seeds are formed. This applies to rapidly growing and abundantly seeded rapeseed or mustard plants. Secondly, some types of green fertilizer help cleanse the soil from pests and diseases. For example, dense sowing of mustard significantly reduces the amount of wireworm.
Green manure produces a green mass that can be used as mulch or as composting material.

Take care of the land on time and correctly and you will always have a rich harvest!

A good harvest depends not only on competent care and high-quality seed. An important factor is fertility, loose earth. It is unlikely that you will be able to grow large, healthy fruits or vegetables on poor, loose soils.

Does the earth need help?

Not only a deficiency, but also an excess of nutrients has a deplorable effect on the crop. Overfed land is in some cases even worse than underfed land. How to determine that the soil needs to be fertilized?

First, find out the type of soil that prevails in the country:

• on light sandy loams or sandstones useful elements go deep very quickly. Here most often there is a lack of potassium, sulfur, iodine, bromine, magnesium, nitrogen. Such soil, in addition to targeted mineral fertilizer, must be diluted with heavier alumina, structured with siderite and compost;
• alkaline soils, salt marshes are characterized by a lack of zinc, copper, phosphorus, manganese, boron, iron and magnesium;
• acid lacks phosphorus, calcium, sulfur, molybdenum, magnesium. Poor absorption of nitrogen. Peatlands need potassium, manganese, boron, copper.

Salt marshes and acidic lands require a lot of attention: most of the garden and garden plants prefers neutral soils. Just deposit necessary elements into the ground is not enough. Reaction acidic soils lead to a neutral value by liming, structured with sand. Salt marshes - with peat or compost. Planting and embedding siderites showed good results.

Secondly, make sure that the plants are not getting sick, namely starving.

Starvation is widespread and does not depend on the type of plant: both fruit trees and vegetable crops suffer from it. Symptoms of diseases similar to starvation are selective and affect any one of the horticultural or horticultural crops.

fasting symptoms

There are a number of signs that indicate a lack of elements in the soil:

1. Nitrogen (N). Deficiency makes plant leaves weak. They turn yellow, slow down growth. With severe depletion, old leaves die off rapidly.
2. Potassium (K). With potassium deficiency pale leaves turn brown, dry along the edge. Along the veins, the tissue dries out and wrinkles. The internodes are shortened. Shoots become thin.
3. Phosphorus (P). There is little phosphorus in the soil, if new leaves become smaller, often become thin and narrow, change color to gray with brown spots. A bronze tint appears. Near the petioles or veins, the color changes to purple or red.
4. Iron (Fe). The veins of the leaves remain green against the background of a yellowing leaf plate. New leaves grow pale.
5. Calcium (Ca). Death of young sprouts, fragility of shoots in general. Rolling and dying of young leaves.
6. Copper (Cu). Green plants are full of pale and brown highlights, become lethargic. There is a slowdown in growth, the death of points of growth.
7. Magnesium (Mg). In case of magnesium deficiency sheet plate brown yellow or red spots grow between the veins.

How to improve productivity?

We are constantly getting letters in which amateur gardeners are worried that due to the cold summer this year, a poor harvest of potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, and other vegetables. Last year we published TIPS about this. But unfortunately, many did not listen, but some still applied. Here is a report from our reader, we want to advise plant growth biostimulantswhich will help increase the yield by up to 50-70%.

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These are the main elements that lay the harvest in the country. Of course, the list is not exhaustive. If the starvation problem is identified, fertilizing the land will help.

Time to improve the composition of the soil

Laying the foundation of the entire crop, namely soil fertilization, is a complex and ambiguous matter. Dry complex mineral supplements, their liquid solutions, organic matter or its infusions have different speed work in the soil, in plants, their roots. It is necessary to take into account these factors and correlate them with the structure of the soil in the country.

In heavy soil, nutrients, except for nitrogen, are introduced in the fall, for digging, and in the lungs - in the spring, since on sandy loam during the winter they go deeper, beyond the limits of active absorption by the roots.

It should be borne in mind that fertilizers applied for digging are far from a panacea for plant starvation. Regular top dressing will be required during the growth period, budding, ovary and fruit ripening.

Dry mineral fertilizers

Top dressing with dry compositions of mineral salts is carried out for digging, embedding in the soil. For use in the country they are produced in the form of granules or powder.

Nitrogen works best if applied in the spring in the form of nitrates. For winter application, it is possible in ammonia form.

Potassium salts are introduced into the soil not only in spring, but also in autumn. Sandy loam and sandstones can be fertilized even in summer. Phosphorus dressings are also universal - they are applied in spring or autumn.

Mineral top dressings are best used in granular form: they do not cake and, unlike powder, they are easier to distribute.

Aqueous solutions of mineral elements

In liquid form, complex mineral salts are absorbed by the roots faster and act immediately after application. They are used throughout the summer season.

The first time the plants are shed with a solution of mineral elements in open ground about 20 days after planting. Then at least once a month.

In addition to root dressing, you can spray on the leaf throughout the growing season. Such a fertilizer is used if the roots cannot get enough nutrition through the soil, due to, for example, low temperatures.

When to use organic

On the household plots organic is an affordable natural fertilizer that provides environmental cleanliness to grown fruits and vegetables.

Organics are easily absorbed by any plants.

Depending on the type, it can be used at different times:

How to fertilize the earth correctly

Knowing when to apply nutrients is important, but knowing how to do it right is even more important.

In dry form, mineral fertilizers and organic matter are embedded in the soil to such a depth that root system garden and horticultural crops had maximum access to nutrients. The optimum depth is up to 20 cm of wet soil. Left on the surface or buried shallow and in dry ground, nutrients will remain inaccessible to plants.

If the soil is poor, and there is little fertilizer, they are applied when plants are planted directly - in the hole. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the roots do not come into direct contact with them, otherwise burns are possible.

Mineral fertilizers are often diluted not at the dosage recommended by the manufacturer, but at a 5-15% lower dosage. This prevents the accumulation of substances harmful to humans in vegetables and fruits.

There are some nuances to the introduction of organic matter. Manure is best used rotted or semi-rotted. Fresh releases ammonia toxic to plants.

Often, peat, chicken or bird droppings, compost and humus are embedded in the soil shallowly - up to 3 cm, while trying to distribute them as evenly as possible.

Separately, it must be said about sawdust. They are never included in fresh: they are able to deplete the soil to nitrogen starvation.

Liquid solutions of mineral salts and infusions of organic matter are applied in the area of ​​the root zone of plants into shallow furrows on moist soil. After this procedure, they are sprayed so that no active substances remain on the leaves.

How to properly cultivate the soil?

Increasing soil fertility is hard work. A simple addition of a complex of minerals will not change the structure of the soil, only temporarily and to a limited extent enrich it. You will not get ecologically clean, healthy vegetables and fruits from such a site. Only a comprehensive improvement of the soil structure and its enrichment with green manure, compost, peat, manure will make it possible to lay a long-term result.

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