Rotation of crops, crop rotation, repeated crops. Crop rotation of vegetable crops: what, then plant in the garden

Crop rotation – correct alternation fruit and berry and vegetable crops in a certain territory. The main tasks of this process:

• Preservation of soil fertility;
• Increased yield;
• Reducing the likelihood of diseases of crops.

To horticultural crops from year to year they pleased with their harvest and did not get sick, you need to adhere to the crop rotation scheme.

Let's explain in more detail. According to the rules of botany, it is impossible to grow a plant every year in the same place. This is due to a number of reasons.

Firstly, any crop, whether vegetable or berry, tends to take certain microelements from the soil. If you do not follow the rules of crop rotation, then the land will be depleted and lose its fertile properties.

Secondly, when growing a certain vegetable crop on the same plot, pests appear in the soil, which, when re-landing will damage it.

Crop rotation of vegetable crops

Observations have shown that the correct plant rotation allows even distribution of microelements in the soil.

Today there is list, which determines the order of planting, both vegetable and berry crops.

Best and worst predecessors:

• Onion (bulb), garlic. Do not plant after carrots. Good predecessors for these crops are: cabbage (early or cauliflower variety), zucchini, potatoes (early), pumpkins, legumes (beans and peas)
• Carrot and parsley. They grow well after any varieties of cabbage, greens (except lettuce), potatoes. You can not place a bed where carrots and parsley have already grown for 2-3 years
• Cucumbers, zucchini and pumpkins. These crops are usually planted after cauliflower or early cabbage, onions, garlic. Also, such predecessors as potatoes, beets, peas and greens (lettuce, dill) are not forbidden. It is not recommended to plant the above vegetables from the pumpkin family, where cabbage grew ( late varieties), carrots, and tomatoes
• Cabbage, radish, turnip. For the listed vegetable crops, it is customary to allocate a new bed every year. You can’t plant 2 years in a row in the same place. Consider good predecessors: potatoes, tomatoes, onion. It is permissible to plant in the place where there used to be beans, peas, carrots and beets
• Tomatoes. It is also desirable to plant tomatoes in a new place each time. Well, this culture grows after cucumbers, turnips, cauliflower, greens. It is forbidden to plant tomatoes where potatoes used to grow
• Potato. Excellent harvest potatoes can be harvested if planted after legumes and grains, cabbages, pumpkins, cucumbers, beets and greens. Tomatoes are bad predecessors. It is very important not to place potatoes in one place for 2 years in a row, in order to prevent from colorado potato beetle

• Beet. In the list of excellent predecessors: cucumbers, potatoes (early) and greens. It is also allowed to plant beets after cabbage (cauliflower or early variety), onions, tomatoes and carrots. It has been noticed that beets grow poorly and get sick if they are planted in the place where they grew last season.
• Eggplant. You can safely plant after cucumbers, onions, cabbage early ripe varieties, perennial herbs (schisandra, mint, etc.). Worst predecessors: potatoes, tomatoes, peppers and eggplants. (By the way, about how to plant eggplant seedlings, read
• Corn. The plant is unpretentious. It is not demanding of predecessors. Grows well in place of legumes, but can be sown after any other crop
• Green crops (, mustard, lettuce, radish, sorrel, etc.). They bring a good harvest after legumes, cabbage (early and cauliflower), cucumbers, onions and garlic. Bad predecessors are carrots and late varieties of cabbage.

Crop rotation of fruit and berry crops

When growing fruit crops crop rotation rules are not cancelled.

Here, too, one should try to alternate subsequence planting plants:

Crop rotation of flower crops

It is noteworthy that the crop rotation includes flower cultures.

Some varieties of flowers are usually planted after vegetables, others are not demanding at all and can grow well in one permanent place:

Crop rotation scheme at their summer cottage

For successful cultivation in the summer cottage of vegetable and fruit crops, experienced gardeners recommend drawing up your own plan for several years ahead crop rotation scheme.

• The very first thing to do is to mentally divide the site into four sectors(in no particular order)
• In the first potatoes should be planted, as well as vegetable crops sensitive to frost (zucchini, cucumbers, tomatoes, etc.)
• Second sector can be taken for any root crops (carrots, radishes, beets, etc.)
• It is permissible to place cruciferous crops on the third site ( different types cabbage), and on the fourth legumes, onions and garlic.

Good to know! Vegetable crops can be returned to their original planting site after about 4-5 years (which is why you need to divide the site into four sectors)

With the beginning of the season, each crop is recommended to be planted in the next sector, and in their place those plants that were placed in the previous section. Let's take an illustrative example:

1 year

Sector number 1. Potatoes, vegetables that do not tolerate frost (tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, etc.);
Sector number 2. Root vegetables (carrots, beets, etc.);
Sector number 3. Cruciferous (cabbage, lettuce, etc.);
Sector number 4. Onions, garlic, legumes (peas, beans, etc.).

2 year

Sector number 1. Onions, garlic, legumes;
Sector number 2. Potatoes, vegetables that do not tolerate frost well;
Sector number 3. Roots;
Sector number 4. Cruciferous.

Sector number 1. cruciferous;
Sector number 2. Onions, garlic, legumes;
Sector number 3. Potatoes, vegetables that do not tolerate frost well;
Sector number 4. Roots.

4 year

Sector number 1. Roots;
Sector number 2. cruciferous;
Sector number 3. Onions, garlic, legumes;
Sector number 4. Potatoes, vegetables that do not tolerate frost well.

It is believed that due to the change of cultures, no pests and diseases are afraid of the personal plot. Even if they appear harmful insects, they won't do much damage to the next crop.

You can see detailed information on how to organize crop rotation in a summer cottage in this video.

“The smart one cultivates the crop, and the wise one cultivates the land ...” (an old proverb)

Is crop rotation possible in the country? Of course, it is possible, although it is rather difficult to provide it on a small area of ​​our land plots. After all, traditional summer cottages are, as a rule, 6 acres of land, of which one acre is allocated for a house and household buildings, 2-3 acres - for trees, ridges with strawberries and berry bushes. And now, on the remaining 2-3 acres, we begin to make smart look and change the location of our vegetable plantations, not quite understanding what crop rotation is.

In addition, most often the garden, vegetable garden, flower beds and lawns in the country are mixed in the most unimaginable way. Sometimes the owners themselves strive for such a “lyrical disorder”, wanting to give their plots originality and special charm.

The charm of the garden, of course, pleases the soul, but those of the summer residents who waved their hand at " scientific approach» in the placement of plantings, sooner or later face the problem of soil depletion and, consequently, a decrease in yield. The second misfortune that lies in wait for such gardeners is the increasing weediness of the soil from year to year. unwanted plants(weeds).

These two reasons force us to look for compromise solutions and move from time to time vegetable plants and flowers.

What does "crop rotation" mean? Crop rotation is a science-based rotation of crops based on knowledge of the individual characteristics of the cultivated plants and their relationships with each other.

Where to start compiling a crop rotation?

You need to start by drawing up a site plan, indicating, first of all, its location relative to the cardinal points and drawing large objects. It doesn’t matter if your site is developed or its development has just begun.

It is useful to put on the plan not only fruit trees, shrubs, arrangement of ridges with vegetables and flower plants, but also the lighting scheme by time of day, depending on the presence of buildings and tall trees.

One of important features agricultural crops is different kinds plants consume unequal amounts of nutrients and, accordingly, deplete the soil in different ways.

For example, potatoes and beets from the 3 most important plant nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) extract almost the same maximum amount of potassium, but differ sharply in phosphorus consumption. Beets take out 2 times more phosphorus from the soil than potatoes. Nitrogen both crops consume the same, but less than most other vegetables.

Vegetable crops are divided according to the degree of consumption of soil nutrients into 3 groups:

1. Plants with a high need for nutrients ah: potatoes, cabbage, pumpkin, spinach, rhubarb, celery, asparagus, zucchini.

2. Medium nutrient plants: eggplant, cucumber, kohlrabi, horseradish, melon, leek, radish, beetroot, spinach, curly beans, tomato.

3. Plants with a weak need for nutrients: bush beans, peas, lettuce, radishes, onions, herbs.

Consequently, the owner of the site, seeking to introduce a crop rotation, must divide the plot plan drawn up into several parts, more often into 3 or 4.
This is exactly what our family did before the first plantings on the “virgin land” freed from aspens in the gardening “Mshinskaya”. We made a site plan, hung it on the wall and during the following seasons tried to return, say, beets or carrots to the same ridge only after 3 years. The most difficult thing at the beginning is to allocate a piece of land with “rich” soil on the virgin lands.

Crop rotation rules

According to the rules of crop rotation, it is recommended to start planting "gluttonous" crops on the most fertile site - cucumbers, zucchini or cabbage. Naturally, before planting, the usual soil preparation procedure is done - required amount fertilizers, trace elements and ash to improve the acidity index. After the end of the season and harvest, it is useful to sow green manure plants in this area, which better than manure increase soil fertility after autumn or spring plowing of their green mass.

The second part of the plot, with less fertile soil, is suitable for onions, radishes, greens or planting tomatoes (eggplants, peppers), if a greenhouse is not intended for such plants.

Then ridges are allocated for carrots, parsley, beets, turnips, which can give good harvest and in thin soil. However, for clay soils, intended for the cultivation of root crops, before digging and sowing, they do not a large number of sand.

The fourth piece of the garden is allotted for potatoes, where ash and compost or rotted manure are applied locally to each hole.

The next year, what grew in the first plot is planted in the fourth. We plant plants from the second plot on the first plot. And so on, in a circle.

Second individual feature plants, including vegetables, is the depth of penetration of the root system into the soil. At different cultures she is very different. For example, in corn and alfalfa, the roots can penetrate to a depth of up to 2 m, in tomatoes - a little less than a meter, and in onions, cucumbers, cabbages, the root system develops in the surface arable soil layer.

This feature must also be taken into account with proper crop rotation and crop rotation, so that nutrients from different soil layers are used more evenly.

In addition, we must not forget that there are crops that enrich the soil with nitrogen.

Legumes and some wild plants. If we take peas as a unit of comparison, then clover increases the nitrogen content by 2.5 times, lupine - a little more (2.7 times), and alfalfa - by 5 times!
And, finally, distributing the main vegetable crops on the site, you need to allocate a small area for perennial crops - sorrel, rhubarb, tarragon, lovage, asparagus, perennial onions. These crops are shade-tolerant, so they can be sown near buildings or a fence.

For perennials there are periods of maximum productivity, after which the yield drops significantly, which means that it also becomes necessary to transplant the plant to another place and return it to its former place no earlier than after three to four years, during which the earth will “rest”.

Two additional recommendations:

What to plant after

Garlic, carrots, onions are vegetable crops that do not tolerate the neighborhood of weeds. They need to be planted in a place clean from weeds. Good predecessors for such crops will be potatoes, cabbage, zucchini, pumpkins, melons, tomatoes.

2. It is not recommended to grow nearby crops that are characterized by common diseases and pests. For example, potatoes and tomatoes planted side by side are affected by late blight. And as predecessors for each other, these vegetables are also very undesirable.

The influence of plants on each other

With crop rotation, everything is clear enough - it is necessary that plants do not extract the same nutrients from the soil from the same soil horizon and do not infect each other “by inheritance” with the same diseases. But with the "friendship and enmity" of plants, the situation is more complicated, and in modern science until it is completely clear. It is known that plants not only absorb, but also release vital waste and protective substances into the soil.
These secretions in some cases are useful, and in others they can be very unpleasant for another plant.

Unlike people, who, with mutual antipathy, can stop communicating and not meet, plants are doomed to “tolerate” a neighbor for the whole season or even all their lives.

An example of the first kind of beneficial coexistence is carrots and onions. Both plants can be attacked by onion and carrot flies, respectively. But fortunately, the carrot fly does not tolerate onions, and the onion fly does not tolerate the smell of carrots, and they do not fly at the same time. Therefore, by planting onions and carrots on the same bed, you can successfully grow a good harvest of both.

And here typical example the opposite situation - tomatoes and cucumbers. Planting them in the same greenhouse and generally nearby is not recommended, neither one nor the other will have a good harvest. Cucumbers need a warm, humid climate, while tomatoes need dry air and good ventilation. In addition, tomatoes release a large amount of ethylene into the air, which inhibits cucumbers.

At the same time, it was noticed that when planting cucumbers next to corn, they have a beneficial effect on it.
Thinking now before the start of the planting season, take a look at the table below:

Crop rotation at their summer cottage, table:

vegetable culture	Befriends with…	Fights with...
Eggplant	peas, beans, potatoes
Peas	eggplant, radish, potatoes, corn, carrots, cucumbers, turnips, beans	onions, tomatoes, fennel, garlic
Cabbage	potatoes, onions, lettuce, beets, celery, dill	strawberries, beans, tomatoes, fennel
Potato	peas, eggplant, cabbage, corn, onion, nasturtium, parsley, radish, lettuce, beets, dill, beans, horseradish, garlic	cucumbers, tomatoes, celery, fennel
Carrot	peas, onions, tomatoes	fennel
cucumbers	peas, cabbage, lettuce, dill, beans	potatoes, peppers, tomatoes, fennel
Tomatoes	green crops, cabbage, lettuce, gooseberries, onions, asparagus, beans	potatoes, kohlrabi, cucumbers, peppers, fennel

At present, it is very popular to arrange ornamental gardens, where often the beds are in the form of sectors of a circle, where vegetable crops alternate with planting flowers and herbs. In such gardens, it is very convenient to carry out a kind of crop rotation every spring by simply shifting one segment clockwise or counterclockwise.

Mixed landings protect the earth from such a phenomenon as "earth fatigue". In such plantings, plants are less affected by pests, due to the fact that they simply cannot find them by smell.

Properly selected vegetables in mixed plantings have a beneficial effect on each other and due to this they grow and develop better. In addition, they decorate the beds very much, turning them into multi-colored flower beds.

Personally, I am for such a crop rotation, in which the combination of vegetables with flowers and herbs leads to the harmony of beauty and usefulness.

Text: Margarita Turkina

Garden affairs №4 (66) 2013

Crop rotation is very important point in the cultivation of various crops.

Five ways of crop rotation for a summer cottage

In this article, crop rotation is presented as a table.

To grow crops strong and stress-resistant to climate change, and also received everything they needed, namely their kind, nutrition, crop rotation should be observed and plants should be returned to the same bed after at least 4 years.

Each culture, as it grows and nourishes, impoverishes the soil, and also attracts certain pests peculiar only to it. That is why it is not recommended to plant the same plant in the same place two seasons in a row.

Another important point. If you do not have the opportunity to observe crop rotation, then it is better to let the earth rest by planting it with green manure; or you will have to remove the top layer of soil (about 20-25 cm) and replace it with new fresh soil.

The proposed table is the most complete and detailed table of crop rotation in the country. Familiarize yourself with it simple rules and you will always have a good and healthy harvest.

THE CROP WE PLANT	BEST PRECURSORS	DO NOT AFTER…
Potato	Cucumbers, cabbage	tomatoes, peppers, physalis
Carrot	Potatoes, tomatoes	parsley, parsnip, celery, cabbage
Beet	Potatoes, cucumbers, onions	pumpkin, spinach
Onion on a turnip	Cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, potatoes, greens	garlic
tomatoes	Cabbage, cucumbers	potatoes, physalis, eggplant, hot and sweet peppers, spinach
cucumbers	cabbage, potatoes, onions	zucchini, pumpkin
Zucchini, squash	Cabbage, potatoes, onions, garlic, tomatoes, peas	zucchini, pumpkin, cucumber
Cabbage	Cucumbers, potatoes, tomatoes	radish, turnip
Eggplant	Cabbage, beans, cucumbers	peppers, tomatoes
Legumes	Potatoes, cabbage, tomatoes	legumes
Parsley, dill, other green and spicy herbs	Cabbage, cucumber, tomato, onion	carrots, parsnips, celery
Pepper	Cabbage, beans, cucumbers	eggplant, pumpkin
radish, radish	Cucumbers, tomatoes, potatoes, onions	cabbage, corn, spinach
Salad	Potatoes, beans	watercress, cabbage
Celery	Potato, cabbage	carrots, parsnips, fennel, parsley
Pumpkin	Cabbage, potatoes, beets, carrots, greens	melon, cucumber, pepper
Garlic	Cucumber, pumpkin, zucchini, cabbage, legumes, green crops	onions, potatoes, tomatoes
Spinach	Tomatoes, cabbage, radishes, potatoes	pumpkin, beets, lettuce
Wheat, rye, oats, corn	barley
Leek	Beans, cabbage, potatoes	onion

Article Author: Love

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How to sow vegetables | Growing radishes, planting and care

What is crop rotation, why is it necessary, and what are the basic principles of crop rotation in the garden, we have already figured it out - see below.

Proper organization of crop rotation in a summer cottage and a table of compatibility of vegetable crops

Crop rotation.

Recall: It is harmful to plant all crops in the garden constantly in one place. The main rule: crops of the same family should not be planted in the same place earlier than after 3-4 years.

Among vegetable and berry crops, there are plants that are grown in one place for several years in a row, and there are those that do not tolerate secondary planting on old beds for several years. Who has to wait:

• Cabbage and other cruciferous plants (radishes, radishes, turnips) return to their former beds not earlier than after 2-3 years.
• Cucumbers - annually in a new place, return in 3-4 years.
• Tomatoes - can be planted in the same place in greenhouses, but with mandatory soil preparation - when digging in autumn, apply fluffy lime (from 50 to 100 g per 1 sq. M.), Otherwise, the soil becomes too acidic and tomato bushes get sick.
• Beets, chard, spinach - return to the old beds only after three to four years.
• Onions - it is permissible to plant in a row for three years in one garden, then pick up another place.
• Garlic - it is advisable not to grow it on the same bed for more than two years (the likelihood of soil infection with a stem nematode increases). Return after two years.
• Carrots - in the same place not earlier than in 2-3 years, otherwise a sharp decrease in yield or lethal doses of fertilizers are required.
• Eggplants - in the same place earlier than in 2-3 years.
• Legumes (peas, beans, soybeans) - it is unacceptable to grow in the old place for four to five years. If nightshade occupied the beds after the bean beds, you can return the peas to the previous beds after three years.
• Strawberries (strawberries) - in the same place for no longer than four years, then the beds should be transferred (see the table of predecessors), it is unacceptable to the place of raspberries. By the way, strawberries do not tolerate land that has been vacated after compound flowers, for example, Jerusalem artichoke, plants of the ranunculus family - these crops make the soil unsuitable for strawberries and strawberries for three to four years. Do not plant strawberries (strawberries) after nightshade (peppers, tomatoes, potatoes) - these crops can suffer from a common disease - verticillium wilt, which is very dangerous for strawberries.
• Potatoes - it is desirable to grow in the same place not earlier than in 2-3 years. This rule is difficult for a gardener to follow, since a large piece of the garden is usually allocated for a potato plot. But if you plant potatoes not in one continuous area, but in ridges, then you can annually shift one bed to another territory.

Table of bad and good predecessors for the main fruit and vegetable crops

Spicy herbs: tarragon, savory, basil, marjoram, coriander. Greens: leaf and head lettuce, green onion(feather).

All crops, except for legumes (beans, soybeans, peas, beans), grow well after green manure, the most popular of which are:

• buckwheat
• peas
• mustard
• Clover
• alfalfa
• lupine
• oil radish
• phacelia
• barley

Similar posts

What is crop rotation

Crop rotation is the alternation of crops horticultural crops and fallows (unsown land) on the site. Crop rotation is carried out not only in the territory (alternating beds), but also in time (alternating vegetables, herbs or berries on the same bed).

Example: last year we grow pumpkins in the garden, this year we grow tomatoes in the same garden.

Crop rotation of vegetable crops: what to plant then, how to properly plan crops

After harvesting the tomatoes, in their place - lettuce, parsley, dill.

Why crop rotation is needed

• reduce the spam of the site with weeds, diseases and pests
• improve the structure of the topsoil
• balance the soil for nutrients (enrich some elements and reduce the consumption of others)

What you need to know to observe crop rotation

First you need to find out how many years you can grow the same crop in one place. The reason is that in time life cycle plants, it releases some phytotoxic substances (colins) that accumulate in the soil - this is the so-called allelopathic activity. Initially, nature intended that allelopathy would be directed exclusively at competing plants. But oddly enough, with long-term cultivation of a crop in the same place, poisoning with its own colines gradually occurs.

For example, phytotoxins released by sugar beet during its continuous cultivation for several years lead to its toxicity to the beet itself and other crops. Drying the soil layer after digging in the sun can partially help, and part of the phytotoxic substances is extracted from the soil with water.

Cabbage, carrots, radishes, peas are slightly less sensitive to their own colins. The most resistant are corn and leeks. In addition to root secretions, the source of colins is the entire above-ground part plants. That is why never leave the tops of vegetables to dry and rot in the beds. Everything that is not related to the crop must be removed from the site.

1. The basic rule of crop rotation: the alternation of garden crops belonging to different families:

Asteraceae	leaf and head lettuce, Jerusalem artichoke, chicory
amaranth	beets, chard, spinach
	peas, beans, beans, soybeans
Buckwheat	rhubarb, sorrel
	corn
Umbelliferae	carrot, dill, coriander, parsnip, parsley, celery, cumin, fennel, anise
cruciferous	all types of cabbage, watercress, radish, radish, turnip, horseradish, swede, mustard
	all types of onions (bulb, leek, shallot, leek, wild garlic) and garlic
Nightshade	tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, potatoes
Pumpkin	cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, melon, zucchini, squash
Lamiaceae	basil, marjoram, mint, savory, rosemary, sage, lemon balm, thyme, oregano

Berry crops that most often need crop rotation are strawberries and grapes.

2. Garden crops with a long ripening period after harvest should leave the garden for three years. Cultures that are particularly sensitive to their own root secretions: beets, chard, spinach, cucumbers, carrots, peas, parsley, it is advisable not to return to their previous beds for 4-5 years.

3. It is possible to reduce the crop rotation time if, immediately after harvesting, the site is sown with green manure (clover, alfalfa, oats).

About the compatibility of vegetable crops

A simple crop rotation rule

If it is difficult for you to remember and calculate which crops to plant in what sequence, remember the simple rule of crop rotation or the principle of crop rotation:

ROOT -> FRUIT -> LEAF -> FLOWER or FLOWER -> LEAF -> FRUIT -> ROOT

This means that if last year you grew carrots on one bed, then next year you can grow tomatoes on it. The next year - onions and garlic, and after them - flowers (lupins, decorative clover). Thus, a four-year cycle is observed, which is then repeated, not necessarily with the same cultures, but according to the same principle.

• Root: potatoes, root parsley, radishes, radishes, turnips, onions, carrots, parsnips, beets, root celery, horseradish, garlic, Jerusalem artichoke.
• Fruit (tops): watermelon, melon, pumpkin, zucchini, eggplant, beans, peas, corn, cucumbers, squash, peppers, tomatoes, beans.
• Leaf: chard, parsley leaf, celery leaf, lettuce, dill, fennel, spinach, sorrel, tarragon, cumin, mint.

Sometimes gardeners do not have enough space for flowers, or simply do not want to deal with them. In this case, the year of the flower can be omitted. Here are examples of crop rotation in beds with a five-year cycle:

Vegetables and herbs

It is not always possible to observe the correct crop rotation cycles, often due to the territorial limitations of the summer cottage - everything is sown and cultivated, there are no free fallows (empty beds), and the equation with good predecessors does not add up.

But a certain minimum for preserving the quality of the crop can be observed. Take, for example, the influence of crops on the structure and quality of the soil.

Plants that improve the soil by loosening and/or enriching organic matter, especially nitrogen:

• clover mix
• alfalfa
• bush beans
• polka dots
• mustard
• buckwheat

Plants that make the soil worse, denser, lowering its porosity and oxygen saturation, and / or deplete, consuming nutrients to the maximum:

• tomatoes
• parsley root
• beet
• potato
• cabbage
• pumpkin
• vegetable marrow
• rhubarb
• chicory

Plants that do not improve the quality of the soil, but do not deplete it in one season:

• onions (all types)
• radish
• pepper
• cucumbers
• kohlrabi
• carrot
• beans
• head salad
• celery root

If your ability to rotate crops is at a minimum, try to maintain a shortened three-year cycle:

• plant demanding crops in the first year
• in the second year - legumes to replenish nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus and improve the structure
• in the third year - less demanding crops

Demanding cultures in soil nutrition

The most important basis of agricultural technology for a summer resident is knowledge of needs various vegetables in nutrients. It depends on how quickly the plant will deplete essential elements nutrition, whether it can provide a full-fledged harvest, and what will be left behind in the ground for subsequent crops.

Three categories of vegetables and herbs

1. Very demanding crops: all types of cabbage, celery, corn, spinach, lettuce.
2. Demanding: cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, onions (all kinds).
3. Less demanding: carrots, parsnips, root parsley, turnip, radish, radish, beetroot.

Based on this, legumes will be the best predecessors or successors of demanding crops, this is especially important if you are an adherent organic farming and try to use fertilizer as little as possible. legumes, thanks nodule bacteria living in the root system, are able to absorb nitrogen from the air and enrich the soil with it. Legumes with a deep root system (alfalfa) are able to lift nutrients (potassium, phosphorus, calcium, magnesium) from deeper soil layers into the arable layer.

Similar posts

In the spring, it is worth planning plantings in the garden, taking into account the predecessors of vegetables that grew in a certain place earlier using tables. Any summer resident should keep track of what, where he has and when he grew.

Vegetable crop rotation table in the garden: what to plant then

This is simply necessary if you want to get a good harvest in the fall. After all, not all vegetables go well together. Then, after last year, pathogenic bacteria (for example, late blight of tomatoes) can be preserved in the ground. Then some vegetables are able to draw from the ground the nutrients needed by another crop. In any case, vegetables cannot be planted in the same place every year; crop rotation must be observed.

For convenience, there are special tables where you can see the best and worst predecessor for each culture.

Necessary breaks when growing crops in one place

In general, I must say, the more time has passed since the moment when the same plant grew in a particular place, the better for it.

Permissible alternation

culture	The best predecessors
Peas, beans, beans	Potatoes, early and medium white, cauliflower, tomatoes, root vegetables, onion, leek, cucumber
Early white and red cabbage, late white cabbage	Tomatoes, potatoes, carrots, beets, cucumbers, annual herbs
Cauliflower and head salad	Early potatoes, tomatoes, cucumber, annual herbs
Zucchini, pumpkin, squash	Root vegetables, cabbage, greens, potatoes
Potato	Cabbage, legumes, root vegetables, cucumber and other cucurbits
Onion	Early white and cauliflower, cucumber, early potatoes, tomatoes, legumes, greens
Carrots, beets, parsley, celery, parsnips	Cabbage, potato, cucumber, tomato, onion, beetroot, leek
Radish, turnip, swede	Cucumber, tomatoes, early potatoes, onion, leek
Cucumber	perennial herbs, tomatoes and other nightshades, onions, legumes, spinach, greens, cabbage, root vegetables
Beet	Potato, cucumber, early cabbage and cauliflower, onion
Tomato, pepper, eggplant, potato	Legumes, carrots, radishes, greens, cabbages, garlic, onions, leeks
Greens	Cucumber
Dill, spinach, lettuce, green onion	Cucumber, early potatoes, early white and cauliflower, carrots and beets, celery and parsley, radish
Garlic	Potatoes, carrots, beets, cucumbers, tomatoes, cauliflower, legumes

It is also good to give the land a rest by not planting anything on it for one year. Having rested, the earth will recover and be enriched with nutrients and microelements.

Beet predecessors

It is a commonly grown vegetable in vegetable gardens. And who sows it every year knows that it is better to plant beets after potatoes, cucumbers, onions, cabbage and cauliflower.

Invalid interleaving

culture	Invalid predecessors
Swede	Cucumber, cabbage
cabbage	Pumpkin, swede, radish, radish
Kohlrabi	Cucumber, pumpkin, radish, radish
Corn	Radish, radish, onion
Swiss chard	Spinach
Onion	Leek, radish, celery, carrot
Carrot	parsnips, parsley, fennel, celery, zucchini, tomatoes
Cucumber and other cucurbits	Swede
Parsnip	Carrot, parsley, celery, fennel
Parsley	Carrots, parsnips, celery
Radish	Kohlrabi
radish	Kohlrabi
Salad	kohlrabi, spinach
Beetroot	Tomatoes, spinach
Celery	Carrot, parsnip, parsley, fennel
Tomatoes, peppers	Cucumber, zucchini
Spinach	Leaf beet, table beet

A good harvest from the beds is the pride of any summer resident. Abundant fruiting provides supplies for the winter and inspires the cultivation of a particular plant. Garden crops require special treatment and proper distribution of nutrients. Beginning growers may not have considered vegetable rotation, while their experienced colleagues, having tried it once, practice this system annually.

What is the secret of gardening?

For many lovers of growing vegetables on the ground, the question often arose, why did some neighbors on small area from year to year the harvest is getting better, and the plants almost never get sick, while in others, despite the impressive size of the land allotment, things are worse.

The bottom line is that not every summer resident, due to employment or other circumstances, thinks about what happens in the beds during the life of the crop he has planted. It turns out that some of the plantings actively deplete the soil, while others, on the contrary, enrich it with lost nutrients. Proper organization of vegetable crops will not only increase the yield, but also improve the fertile soil layer.

Crop rotation of vegetables is a competent annual replacement of some plants by others.

The right predecessors - those plants that grew in the beds last year, ensure the active timely development of the followers and guarantee the summer resident a good harvest. Professionals have compiled more than one table and a scheme for the correct replacement of garden crops.

Is vegetable "castling" really necessary?

There are several reasons for using the available charts and tips for your summer cottage. These include:

• soil depletion;
• toxins;
• illness.

Any plant requires certain conditions during planting and nutrients during growth and development. If from year to year on the same plot to grow the same tomatoes, then soon the soil will be depleted, and the crop will fall. It is not recommended to plant related crops in a permanent place, as they absorb the same substances and also actively "devastate" the black soil.

The depletion zone also depends on where the root system of the inhabitants of the beds is located. For example, cucumbers actively absorb substances found in upper layers soil, but the watermelon "eats" what lies at a relatively great depth, as it has a fairly long main root.

Who eats and how much?

Most deplete the landing site:

• cabbage (including cauliflower);
• carrot;
• beet.

In second place in terms of "eating" the soil are the beds:

• eggplant;
• zucchini;
• Luke;
• pepper (sweet and bitter);
• tomatoes;
• garlic.

They consume everything they need, but leave a decent supply of nutrients in the soil:

• cucumber (including momordica);
• radish (radish);
• lettuce crops.

However, there are also plants that enrich depleted beds with missing elements. Siderates include:

• legumes;
• cereals.

The plant returns to the planting site 52 months after the first planting in the garden.

Own poisons and pests

Crop rotation of vegetables in the garden is also necessary in order to avoid poisoning green spaces with their own toxins that accumulate in the ground when the crop is planted every season in the same place. The longer representatives of the same family grow in the garden, the large quantity"waste" accumulates in the soil.

Beets and spinach do not like to grow in a permanent place, as these crops are very susceptible to their own "excretions". But leeks, beans, peas, pumpkin or corn calmly endure the same landing site. Living from year to year on the same bed, plants acquire pests that actively multiply and infect the soil cover. In this case, planted on permanent place potatoes will increasingly be attacked by the Colorado potato beetle, and greens by leaf nematodes.

Are there rules for a good harvest?

To garden beds pleased with an excellent harvest, and the plants did not get sick, experts recommend adhering to several rules for alternating green spaces. The requirements are quite simple:

• take into account nutritional needs;
• avoid illness;
• do not poison plants with their own toxic poisons.

A well-known rule of botany says that the longer the culture does not return to its original place of growth, the better. If before that the site was preceded by plants that absorb vitamins from the surface layers of the soil, then next year the garden bed should be populated with green inhabitants with deep roots, and vice versa.

Changing places

• the first row (the one closer to the fence, as the plants on it will be tall): eggplant, zucchini, cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes, pumpkin;
• second row: potatoes, carrots, beets, radishes;
• third: peas, chickpeas, beans;
• fourth: all types of cabbage, lettuce-spinach crops, herbs, onions, garlic.

In the second year of disembarkation fruit plants from garden No1, such as tomatoes, cucumbers or peppers, from the 1st line are moved to the fourth. Bed No2 from the first year, where potatoes and carrots bore fruit, automatically becomes the 1st, and all other rows go down one level.

In the third year of the formation of the garden, radishes, carrots or potatoes go to the last fourth row, and representatives of legume family green manure.

rule the best predecessor, that is, the crop that enriched the soil or left nutrients for the next receiver, we will consider on the most popular plants of gardeners in our country. So, for example, after cabbage on the selected square meters you can "settle" cucumbers, tomatoes or beans. Pimply friends should be replaced with garlic, beans, lettuce-spinach crops and herbs, and carrots or potatoes are quietly planted in place of tomatoes.

But what if the area is too small?

Despite all the recommendations, it often happens that it is not possible to adhere to them thoroughly, since the site is too small or there is a preference and need for only one or a few vegetable crops. In this case, it is recommended to regularly fertilize the planting areas in the autumn.

The most common fertilizer in our latitudes is manure. It is rich in nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. It is recommended to introduce it into the soil once every few years, since during the year of fruiting the plants consume not all vitamins, but only a part (from 30 to 50%). Great solution will plant winter green manure such as wheat or rye after harvesting the site. These grains will restore the fertile layer of the earth and prepare it for spring planting garden crops.

If this is not possible, then when planting vegetables, it is worth adding an enriching plant to it, such as beans or pumpkin. After harvesting, you can leave the tops and leaves of some representatives of the flora, as they also contain a number of nutrients that, when rotting, will enter the soil and enrich it. For example, melon leaves and buckwheat contain calcium, tobacco is rich in potassium, and Datura blooming with white gramophones is phosphorus.

Flowers are excellent green manure and protectors from small pests. By planting Chernobrivtsy or calendula along the edge of the beds, you can not only decorate the site, but also scare away nematodes or aphids. Having mastered the rules for crop rotation of vegetables in the garden, the summer resident will be convinced that the equipment is operating and actively working for the benefit of the crop. Abundant fruiting of healthy plants will delight the owner for more than one year.

Crop rotation is an agronomic term, which is understood as a regular, scientifically based annual change or alternation of crops in one or more fields included in the cycle of cultivation of these plants.

seed planning

Vegetable crop rotation contributes to the accumulation of nutrients in the soil, heals it from pathogens and wintering stages of pests. Bundling and co-cultivation create opportunities for higher yields. A crop rotation table should be in every amateur vegetable grower. It is advisable to remember the principles of fruit change according to various criteria:

• According to the type of economically valuable part of the crop, in the forward and reverse order, ROOT CROPS are replaced by FRUIT, then LEAF VEGETABLES - FLOWERS;
• On the basis of belonging to the biological family: plants from the pumpkin, legume, haze and cabbage families are replaced by nightshade.

What to plant after

In addition to having a clear understanding of the sequence, it is important to know a number of rules related to soil fertility and favorable phytosanitary regime:

• The same crop should not be cultivated in one place for more than one year. Even if the crops are different, but belong to the same botanical family, they should not follow each other, since they are damaged by the same pests and react in the same way to soil toxins;
• It is useful to leave the soil under “fallow”, without planting anything for 1-2 years, during the season the site is weeded and loosened, watered if necessary;
• Plants that were grown on the site last year leave behind volumes of root residues, which then rot and create a supply of essential macro- and microelements in the soil. In addition, bushes with a deep-penetrating root system saturate the soil with oxygen and make it moisture-permeable;
• The tops of vegetable crops and flowers significantly enrich the soil with organic matter, and the site looks clean and tidy;
• Plants that release substances that repel insect pests can significantly reduce the pesticide load on the soil and the environment;
• Annual cultivation of highly demanding plants to the level mineral nutrition significantly depletes the soil.

Watch the video! What can be planted after - tips for gardeners

Advice! Use the tops of vegetable and flower crops to make compost and create warm beds!

If you follow the above rules, the accumulation of nutrients and the improvement of the soil will occur in a systematic and targeted manner. Gardeners-gardeners need to keep a diary, where to record all the manipulations in the garden and in the garden.

Use of mixed landings

A number of studies and practical experience vegetable growers indicates a positive effect mixed landings vegetables. The most suitable landing schemes include:

• onions + carrots;
• radish + carrot;
• onion + cabbage;
• beets + cabbage.

Seeds are sown in alternating rows, while they help each other to sprout and protect from possible pests. When planning joint landings vegetables, it is important to take into account their relationship to light.

There are no shade-loving crops among vegetables. In the complete absence of direct sunlight, they cease to develop and give a crop of poor quality.

Table 1 - The ratio of vegetable crops to the level of illumination

Good forerunners of vegetable crops

All plantings leave behind in the soil, in addition to a set of mineral and organic substances, useful or toxic substances, root residues. If you correctly select the sequence of plants, actively use compost, then you can effectively manage soil fertility. The main vegetable crops and good predecessors for them are shown in Table 2.

Table 2 - Main vegetable crops and good predecessors for them

culture	Predecessor
Beans, beans, peas	White cabbage, Chinese cabbage, broccoli, potatoes, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, onion, garlic, pepper, eggplant
Cabbage, beets	Cucumber, potato, pepper, carrot, bean, pumpkin, eggplant, tomato
Potato	Cabbage, cucumber, pumpkin, onion, garlic, carrot
Onion garlic	Cabbage, potatoes, legumes, greens, radishes
Carrot	Cucumber, potato, cabbage, tomato, legumes
Cucumber, pumpkin, zucchini	Cabbage, beans, onion, garlic, corn
Pepper, eggplant	Cabbage, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, onion, garlic, legumes, carrots
Tomato	Cucumber, carrot, cabbage, onion, beetroot

All plants have certain requirements for soil fertility and endure fixed amounts of nutrients. Table 3 presents the categories of vegetable and green crops according to the level of removal of nutrients from the soil.

The level of nutrient removal from the soil means that for the growth of subsequent plantations, nutrients must be applied back to the soil in an amount greater than that which was carried out by the previous crop in order to accumulate fertility.

Healthy! Leave the soil under clean fallow for 1-2 years every 5-6 years of use.

The scheme of alternation of plants in the suburban area

Let's figure out how to draw up the scheme correctly vegetable crop rotation for giving. The primary task is to draw up a map-plan of the site indicating buildings, household objects, trees, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe beds and the ratio of the cardinal points. This will allow you to see the most illuminated and shaded areas. The easiest way to make a crop rotation is to divide the entire area under the beds into 4 sectors and move the entire set of suburban vegetable crops along them.

Important! In the garden, where crops from the first group grew last year, representatives of the second group should be planted this year, etc.

Thus, the country crop rotation includes 4 groups of vegetable plants:

• Cucumber, cabbage, zucchini, pumpkin, squash;
• Tomato, onion, radish, garlic, green crops;
• Carrots, beets, radishes, root parsley;
• Potato.

This combination of vegetables takes into account the ratio of the volume of needs in each type. The next year, the totality of cultures moves to the neighboring sector. The proposed scheme is very convenient. Over time, summer residents develop the habit of correctly arranging crops and there is no need to keep records.

Attention! For soil under greenhouses and temporary shelters, the requirement to observe crop rotation also remains.

Good and Bad Neighborhood

Good crop compatibility for co-planting

Many years of experience in the cultivation of garden crops allows us to compile a list of plants that favorably affect each other:

Watch the video! Vegetables neighbors in the beds

Poor crop compatibility for co-planting

The peculiarity of growing plants in suburban areas is that it is necessary to fit a wide range of crops, both tree and shrub and vegetable, in a relatively small area. The fact is that many fruit and nut trees can have a negative effect on plants that are in close proximity to them. Here are examples of negative neighborhoods:

• The walnut inhibits any plants that come into contact with the substance it releases - juglone;
• Fennel oppresses all crops in close proximity;
• get along badly legume vegetables and wormwood;
• Potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes and strawberries grow worse if they are in the zone of influence of each other's roots, also applies to all representatives of the Solanaceae family;
• Cabbage and strawberries are two crops that attract a huge number of pests to the site, which negatively affects the growth of each crop individually.

Thus, the time spent on the design of crop rotations in the country is not wasted. A competent approach and thoughtful decisions will allow you to correctly design a country crop rotation, save on fertilizers, plant protection products and get a significant harvest of vegetables.

Watch the video! Crop rotation of vegetable crops

In contact with

Growing vegetables and herbs in your garden for many today is both a useful and a favorite pastime. Of course, it is very important to get a good harvest from your site. Best result achieved when the crop rotation in the garden is properly adjusted.

Importance of crop rotation

If the same plants are constantly planted in one place, then their own enzymes (root secretions) poison the soil and the yield drops. So, for example, with long-term cultivation of celery, tomatoes, cucumbers, beans, cabbage in the soil, pathogens accumulate in the soil. various diseases. Therefore, crop rotation is necessary in the garden, that is, an annual change of places for growing crops on the site.

The same crops and related crops are recommended to be planted in the same places at least after three seasons. It is important to comply with this condition, because different cultures require different fertilizers. So, for example, cucumbers, cabbage, zucchini, leek, pumpkin need organic fertilizers; carrots, beets, parsley - in mineral; onions, garlic, herbs, tomatoes - both in minerals and in organic matter.

Benefits of crop rotation

The alternation of crops in the garden allows you to:

• reduce the impact of pests and pathogens that have accumulated in the soil, especially dangerous for the past crop and less dangerous for the next;
• improve the uptake of nutrients from the soil by plants;
• more rational use of mineral and organic fertilizers, taking into account their effect and aftereffect on different cultures;
• avoid negative phenomena that are caused by root secretions of this plant species;
• carry out deep digging gradually (only for crops that need deep loosening of the soil).

Organization of crop rotation

In order to organize in the garden and not get confused in the planting sites, the following solution is often suggested. The entire garden is conditionally divided into four zones (although three are possible). We plant crops in groups. The first group is vegetables that need organic matter. The second group - vegetables that need mineral fertilizers. The third group is vegetables, for which both organics and minerals are important. And the fourth group is potatoes.

For the next season, you need to choose such places for planting so that the previous crops are suitable for them:

• Legumes - cabbage, potatoes, root crops, tomatoes.
• Potatoes - legumes And early cabbage.
• Cabbage - root vegetables, legumes, tomatoes, potatoes.
• Tomatoes, peppers - legumes, root vegetables, cabbage.
• Onion - potatoes, pumpkin, root vegetables, legumes.
• Root crops - potatoes, tomatoes, early cabbage.
• Greens - legumes, cabbage, potatoes, pumpkin.
• Cucumbers and pumpkins - root crops, early cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes.

You also need to know invalid predecessors. For example, do not fit:

How to increase productivity

Observing certain rules of crop rotation in the garden, on one piece of land you can get two crops a year. For example, before planting peppers, tomatoes, eggplant, you can spinach, lettuce. After cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, sow turnips and radishes. After early potato plant kohlrabi, colored radishes, lettuce, peppers, spinach grow well after peas.

Between the rows of slow-growing vegetables, you can plant fast-growing ones. For example, between the rows of carrots, beets, celery, you can grow lettuce, radishes, spinach, green onions. Radish and lettuce can also be grown between rows of cabbage (early and late). Greenery grows well along the edges of the beds.

It is useful to grow more thermophilic plants (cucumbers, peppers, eggplants) among taller ones (tomatoes, peas, corn).

J. Seymour's Rules

1. If potatoes were planted on heavy, damp soils, then other root crops can be grown there in the third or fourth year.
2. Legumes love well-calcified soil, which potatoes do not like. Therefore, it is better not to plant potatoes after legumes.
3. Cabbage lime is loved, but not fresh. They are best planted after legumes.
4. Radishes, lettuces, cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini love rotted manure and compost. After them, it is good to grow root crops.
5. In some places, you can constantly plant greens (lettuce, spinach, dill).

Rotation table

So, to make it easier to organize crop rotation in the garden, the crop rotation table will provide information in a more visual form.

Rotation of crops

culture	predecessors
	Best	Permissible	Bad
Cabbage varieties of medium and late	Legumes, cucumber, carrots, early potatoes	-	Beets, cabbage
Beet	Cucumber, greens, green manure, potatoes	Tomatoes, onions, carrots, cauliflower and cabbage
Cauliflower and early varieties	Legumes, onion, cucumber, green manure	Tomatoes, carrots	Root vegetables, cabbage
Cucumber, zucchini, patisson, pumpkin, zucchini	Onion, cabbage of early and medium varieties, cauliflower, garlic, legumes	Potato, beetroot, cucumber, greens	Tomatoes, carrots, late cabbage
Tomatoes	Turnips, cucumbers, greens, green manure, cauliflower	Average and late cabbage, beets, onions	Potatoes, tomatoes
Onion garlic	Cucumber, potatoes, legumes, cauliflower and cabbage	Tomatoes, beets, onions, late cabbage	Carrots, greens
Potato	Legumes, cauliflower and cabbage, cucumbers, green manure	Greens, cabbage, carrots, beets	Potatoes, tomatoes
Legumes	All varieties of cabbage, potatoes, onions, garlic, cucumbers	Tomatoes, greens, table root crops, green manure	Legumes
Greenery	Legumes, cauliflower and cabbage, onions, cucumbers, green manure	Potatoes, tomatoes, greens, beets	late cabbage, carrots

"Conveyor" of vegetables

The so-called vegetable conveyor is very convenient for the constant supply of fresh herbs and vegetables to the table. This conveyor begins when we plant greenery in the garden in the spring. Crop rotation in this case helps to achieve the best results.

The sequence of receipt on the table of greens, vegetables, root crops:

• In spring: feathers of perennial chives, onions, parsley, Jerusalem artichoke tubers left for the winter.
• A little later: sorrel, young nettle, rhubarb, onion feather, planted at the end of April.
• Then: dill and radish.
• From the end of May to the beginning of June: salad mustard, spinach, seedling-grown kale, basil, coriander.
• In mid-June: early tomatoes and cucumbers, beets, bunch carrots.
• End of June: and early.
• July: tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage, beets, zucchini, carrots, broccoli, early potatoes.
• August: patissons, legumes, corn, turnips, pumpkins, eggplants, sweet peppers.
• Autumn and winter: celery (potted), chives, watercress, lettuce alfalfa, home-grown mustard.

Given all the advantages of this approach, it is worth remembering about creativity when organizing landings. Crop rotation in the garden will help with this, but you need to apply it according to your needs, capabilities and desires.