What can be planted nearby in the garden. What crops can and cannot be planted next to tomatoes

When purchasing a summer cottage or a house on the ground, the owners begin to think about how to organize a vegetable garden and a garden. I want to make it not only useful, but also beautiful, blooming, fragrant. Many aspiring gardeners get lost, don't know where to start and make many mistakes in their "growing career".

A bountiful harvest depends on proper planning planting crops. It is not enough just to stick the seeds in the ground and wait for the harvest. It is necessary to correctly compose the soil mixture, choose appropriate place organize watering and caring for plants. It is better to know about all these features of laying out a garden in advance than to be disappointed later in the results of your hard work. Here the gardener will find everything helpful tips experienced growers on the organization of a summer cottage, plant compatibility and a lot of other useful information.

Garden layout: consider the size and composition of the soil

Before planting a site, pay attention to its size and soil. If the territory is small, especially with the planting of crops, do not scatter. So experienced gardeners it is advised to break up a garden so that you can mix plants with each other - arrange beds where two or three types of vegetables will grow in one place. Of course, on small gardens do not grow trees. Them root system"envelop" the entire plot, vegetable crops will grow poorly and slowly. If the territory is more than 12 m ?, you can no longer worry about the expediency mixed landings. Here the gardener plans standard-sized beds and determines the place for breeding. fruit trees, bushes.

When planning a garden, rely on the basic rules of its organization:

• Consider the size of the plot
• Decide what crops you want to grow
• Gather all the information about them to know what growing conditions they need.
• Divide the site into zones depending on this.
• Explore the soil. If necessary, add compost, humus, peat or sand
• Immediately decide if you need it and choose the best place for it

An important item on the list is the study of the soil. Why is it so important? The thing is that there are types of soil on which it is impossible to grow certain vegetable crops. Knowing the composition of the soil, its level of acidity will help not to waste time growing crops that simply will not grow. Checking acidity is very simple at home. To do this, take some earth - a couple of spoons - fill it with vinegar and look at the reaction. If the substrate begins to foam and hiss, then the acidity is moderate. If no reaction occurs, the soil is acidic, it must be deoxidized with slaked lime and ash.

Most vegetable crops do not tolerate acidic soil.

AT clay soil compost, humus and sand are added. If the site is damp, it is necessary to arrange good drainage under the beds - constant puddles do not contribute to the growth of vegetables. Complex and rotted humus are introduced into soddy-podzolic soils. Only after planning the zones and improving the soil, you can start cultivating beds and planting vegetables, flowers and trees.

How to make beds: choose vegetables

The organization of beds requires certain knowledge from the gardener. First of all, this is the orientation to the cardinal points. The beds should be arranged in a direction from north to south. This is the best option for crops. It is advisable to choose areas that are flat, without ridges and bumps.

The area with vegetables should be open, free from trees and shade.

Most crops love sunlight, air movement - aeration and soil moisture. With this in mind, the beds should be broken. Many are now organizing a place for vegetables like a high ridge. What? The place is delimited by boards - a rectangle is built above ground level. The substrate necessary for the culture is added to it.

Such high bed has a number of advantages:

• It is easier to work with it - weed, water, thin out
• Earth keeps warm longer
• Careful appearance gardens - everything is organized

But if there is no desire to build such structures, cultivate ordinary beds. Optimal Width will be approximately 90 cm. Do not make too wide areas for vegetables. They are difficult to take care of. We have to violate the integrity of the ridge when weeding and. Between the beds there should be a distance sufficient for the free movement of a person with a small garden cart. Narrow passages do not allow normal work with plants - watering, weeding, fertilizing.

On the beds you can grow any kind of crops. Everything will depend on the diet of the family and the wishes of the owners themselves. It is important to consider the order of planting vegetables and their compatibility. Landed first, and. A little later, other cultures -,. The latter are usually grown from seedlings, planting in the ground occurs when there is no threat of frost. This is the middle or end of May, depending on the region. When choosing vegetable crops for cultivation on your site, always consider the diet of the family. What will be eaten and what households do not favor. Wasting time on plants that will then be thrown out is not worth it. This is a waste of space and a waste of time.

The concept of plant compatibility is relevant for small garden plots. As a rule, it is on them that a mixed method of growing crops is used. Several types of vegetables and herbs are planted on the same bed in order to save space. For this, plant compatibility should be taken into account. What to plant with what? The following are pairs of cultures that can be combined:

• Potatoes are well adjacent to, and
• gets along with, peas,
• likes to grow up with catnip
• coexist with, spinach, and
• get along well with celery, peas and
• is friends with, catnip
• better to plant with and
• with , and

In this order, you can combine vegetables and safely collect abundant harvests. Pay attention to flowers such as marigolds. This is enemy number one for vegetable crops. Therefore, experienced gardeners are advised to plant them around the perimeter of the beds. Often vegetables are mixed with herbs - parsley, dill, lettuce. These plants are the so-called "mediators". They help the main crop grow.

By observing these simple compatibility pairs, you can harvest a good harvest even from a small garden plot. However, one should observe not only the rule of "friendship" of plants, but also crop rotation.

The crop rotation rule boils down to one thing - one and the same place cannot be endlessly grown one type of crop. They definitely need to be replaced. Otherwise, the soil will be depleted and impoverished. We will have to enrich her and give her rest, which, as a rule, is not included in the gardener's plans.

So, a beginner summer resident should consider the following rules:

• Potatoes are planted in the place where they grew

Every summer resident knows well that if the same crops are planted in the same place for several years in a row, then even under seemingly identical care conditions, they become more and more frail every year and bear fruit worse and worse. This phenomenon is caused by soil depletion, which in turn is explained by a number of factors.

The importance of proper crop planning

The first is that pathogens and all kinds of pests accumulate in the soil. For example, potatoes are known to be a favorite delicacy. Colorado beetles. If the plantation of this crop does not change its location for several years, the pest does not need to migrate in search of food - after wintering, it immediately finds itself in favorable conditions for itself and immediately begins to destroy the plant. Except colorado potato beetle, planting potatoes contribute to the accumulation in the soil of late blight pathogens, as well as the larvae of click beetles and moths.

With other cultures, the situation develops in the same way. On a plot planted with the same crop, the number of those pests will increase from year to year, which are dangerous specifically for her and, accordingly, it will be more and more difficult for the plant to withstand such an invasion. Cabbage, tomatoes, cucumbers, celery, beans, lettuce are especially affected by this factor.
The second is to increase concentration. harmful substances secreted by the roots of a particular culture (the so-called colins) and are toxic to this culture itself. Some plants are very sensitive to the effects of such poisons (for example, beets and spinach), others are more resistant (carrots, pumpkin, radishes, parsley), others are almost unresponsive to colins (beans, leeks, corn). Besides, different plants emit different amounts of such harmful substances, for example, there are especially many of them in the soil after cucumbers, carrots and cabbage.

The third is stock depletion nutrients in the soil. Each culture has its own set of nutrients necessary for normal development. It is clear that such a plant will try to extract them from the soil. For example, if cabbage is in great need of potassium, then after planting this element in the soil, it will remain less and less, while, say, after radish, potassium reserves are not depleted so rapidly.

It is easy to understand that the situation can be corrected by correctly alternating the crops planted on the site from year to year. This procedure is called crop rotation and is a whole science. However, if there is no time to engage in complex theoretical preparation, it is enough to learn a few fundamental rules, and the harvest on your site will always be equally plentiful.

Rule #1

One after another, not only the same crop, but also close relatives (representatives of the same species) cannot be planted for several years in a row, since they, as a rule, have common pests, react in the same way to toxins and consume the same composition of microelements.

Rule #2

The average time during which the earth must rest after certain culture, is two years(one year is usually not enough for a full recovery), but for some plants this period is much longer. So, carrots, cucumbers, parsley, beets should not return to their original place for at least 4 years, and in relation to cabbage it is better to withstand all 7 years! These periods can be increased, but it is undesirable to reduce.

Rule #3

Plants tend not only to consume trace elements from the soil, but also to enrich it with one or another useful substances and properties. So correct alternation crops can allow not only to preserve the elements especially necessary for the plant, but also to improve the composition and structure of the soil without additional procedures. For example, legumes loosen the soil and enrich it with many minerals. Melon and buckwheat saturate the soil with calcium, dope grass with phosphorus, tobacco with potassium, stinging nettle- iron. Knowing these simple rules and taking into account the need various kinds crops in certain trace elements, it is easy to plan crops for several years in advance. By the way, these properties of the listed crops can be used more fully by laying them in compost after harvesting.

The same rule applies to pests. There are cultures that are not only resistant to certain diseases, but also repel their pathogens. For example, aphids do not tolerate plants such as garlic or tobacco. Thyme is afraid of the Colorado potato beetle. If such orderlies are planted after plants exposed to these pests, there is good opportunity expel them from the site, freeing it for planting in subsequent years.

Rule #4

The need of plants for nutrients is not the same. It is impossible to plant crops that are too demanding on the composition of the soil one after another. It is more correct to plant legumes on the garden after such a crop or apply the necessary layer of fertilizer.

Thus, the correct alternation of crops will avoid one-sided depletion of the same elements in the soil, an increase in the concentration of certain types of pests and pathogenic bacteria in it, as well as an uneven load on the soil of the same root system of plants.

Another reason that makes it necessary to rotate crops on the site is weed control. There are plants that are sensitive to such a neighborhood (for example, garlic, onions, carrots, parsley, parsnips), it is better to plant them after those crops that leave behind a minimum amount of weeds. These plants include tomatoes, peas, potatoes, cabbage.

What to plant after

So, we found out that the rotation of crops is a necessary and quite economical technique that allows you to maintain soil fertility and ensure a uniformly high yield. But since the need different cultures in trace elements, fertilizers and other conditions is different, knowledge general rules and principles does not always allow you to correctly determine which plants in which sequence to alternate on your site.

Did you know? There are two simple rules scheduling landings. First, you should not alternate representatives of the same family. For example, both tomatoes and potatoes are nightshade; both carrots and dill are umbrella plants. Secondly, the plants in which it is eaten should be alternated with each other. top part, with those where the root is valuable (“tops and roots”). It must be understood that this is a rather primitive rule, and it should be used only if more accurate information could not be found for one reason or another.

What then to plant in the beds can be found in the numerous tables developed by agronomists and amateurs. For those who do not want to study theory and are looking for simple answers to questions on specific crops - below are some tips on which vegetables can be planted after which.

What can be planted after cabbage

Cabbage is exposed to many pests and diseases, therefore, answering the question of what to plant after cabbage next year, any gardener will say with confidence: just not cabbage, even if we are talking about other types of it! This is the worst option imaginable, but if there is no other way, the soil must be very well fertilized with compost.

Cabbage as a predecessor is not suitable for crops such as radish, rutabaga and turnips, since these plants are favorite food for the same pests.

It is ideal to plant onions or garlic after cabbage. Carrots, celery, potatoes, beets, cucumbers, tomatoes are also allowed. In addition, cabbage gets along well with these vegetables in the neighborhood, since in this case it is less damaged by diseases and harmful insects. But next to tomatoes, beans, parsley and tomatoes, cabbage, on the contrary, should not be planted.
Potatoes, radishes, cucumbers, carrots, peas, onions, garlic, and annual herbs are considered good predecessors of cabbage.

What to plant after garlic

Garlic, as well as onions, is not recommended to be planted for a long time in the same place, and also to alternate with each other. What can be planted after garlic in the garden is potatoes, especially early ripe ones. Tomatoes, cucumbers, legumes, beets or cabbage are also acceptable options.

But it is best to plant annual herbs after garlic and onions, which are intended to restore the soil for later use, replenish its mineral reserve and destroy weeds. Mustard, phacelia, some varieties of green peas, rye, and rapeseed do well with this role.

What to plant after cucumbers

Cucumbers are much more demanding on the composition of the soil than many other crops. The soil before planting is usually especially carefully fertilized with both organic matter and mineral supplements. It follows that planting after cucumbers next year should be something less picky. For example, cabbage is absolutely not suitable for these purposes, which also needs fertile soil. They feel good in the area where cucumbers grew, various root crops - beets, radishes, turnips, carrots, parsley, celery. In order to improve the composition of the soil after cucumbers, legumes can be planted and only after that other vegetable crops can be used, for example, onions, potatoes, tomatoes, corn, lettuce.

Important! The soil is fertile not only due to the presence in it of a certain set of trace elements. Necessary condition is also the creation natural complex all kinds of microorganisms and various types of organic substances. Therefore, the big mistake is the confidence among summer residents that it is possible to restore depleted soil by thoughtlessly dumping a bucket of compost on the bed and watering it from above with complex mineral fertilizer purchased at the nearest supermarket.

What to plant after strawberries

Strawberries tend to deplete the soil very much, therefore, immediately after transplanting it (and it is better to do it once every four years), the bed where it grew must be carefully fed with mineral and organic fertilizers. It is better to do this right from the fall, having thoroughly dug up the soil after adding additives to it.

Strawberries consume especially a lot of nitrogen, so it is best to plant beans, peas and other legumes after it - they, as mentioned, enrich the soil with this element.

The antifungal and volatile properties of garlic make it good helper to clean the soil from pests left in it after strawberries. Simultaneously with garlic, you can also plant parsley, celery and other fragrant greens to drive slugs out of the garden.

Actually, on this planting options for the next year after strawberries are limited. But after the above crops, you can plant any vegetables - cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini, pumpkin, etc.

Important! Raspberries and strawberries should not be alternated with each other, as these plants have similar pests.

Well arrange in place of the former strawberry garden flower garden. Perennial peonies, daffodils, tulips and violets will help the soil recover from depleted berries.

What to plant after potatoes

Potatoes, unlike strawberries, consume a lot of potassium and phosphorus, so the soil after harvesting the tubers lacks these elements. You can make up for the loss with mineral fertilizers, or you can plant annual herbs that generate potassium and phosphorus after themselves. This role can be performed by dope grass, mustard, oats, peas, rape, phacelia.

If it is not possible to completely free the site after potatoes for a whole year, you can plant a pumpkin on it. Other crops require pre-application mineral fertilizers to restore soil fertility. However, as mentioned above, tomatoes, eggplants and other nightshade crops cannot be planted after potatoes. The same applies to pepper.

Successfully make the same pumpkin, zucchini, cucumbers, cabbage, onions as predecessors of potatoes.

What to plant after tomatoes

We decided that eggplant, potatoes and peppers should not be planted after tomatoes. As with other cultures, after tomatoes, it is ideal to plant annuals that will fill the soil with the missing elements. If there is no opportunity for such luxury, it does not matter! Peas, beans and other legumes will help fill the lack of nitrogen in the soil, cabbage will also feel good in the garden where tomatoes grew, since the pests of these crops are different. There are no contraindications for planting cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, carrots, beets, green salads, onions, garlic. In addition, tomatoes are that little, after which carrots can be planted.

What to plant after beets

The choice of what can be planted after beets for the next year is quite large. Potatoes, tomatoes and other solanaceous plants are suitable for this purpose, however, before such planting, the soil must be well fed with humus or peat. You can also plant garlic and onions. good option is the carrot. By the way, the predecessors of carrots in the garden, in addition to beets and the tomatoes mentioned above, are also cucumbers, onions, garlic and cabbage.

The above crops also work in reverse order, that is, in relation to what it is better to plant beets after. To this list, you can add cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, legumes, lettuce, greens - parsley, dill, celery.

What can be planted after pepper

The root system of sweet pepper is located in upper layers soil, so after it it is best to plant crops with deeper roots. It can be root crops (radishes, radishes, beets, carrots), except for potatoes, as well as onions, garlic, cucumbers, beans and greens.

You can not plant any crops of the nightshade family after pepper. Myself Bell pepper can be planted after peas, zucchini, pumpkin, cabbage, beets, celery.

What can be planted after peas

Peas, as mentioned above, are a good predecessor for so many crops. Thus, the ability of this plant to enrich the soil with nitrogen will especially favorably affect the yield of potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, beets, carrots, radishes, cucumbers, zucchini, squash, pumpkins, melons, as well as various types of cabbage.

However, peas have one unpleasant feature: they are very susceptible to fungal diseases and root rot, especially under conditions high humidity. Therefore, if a culture affected by such an ailment grew on the site, neither peas nor other legumes should be planted in this place next year. Spores of such diseases can persist in the soil for 5-6 years, so during this period it is better to use the bed for crops less susceptible to these diseases.

What to plant then: a table of predecessors of vegetable crops when planting

With regard to desired and unwanted predecessors specific vegetable crops, there are a huge number of general and specific rules, summarized for clarity in various tables. These can be consulted whenever appropriate rotations are planned.

For example, you can group crop rotation rules in the following way:

culture	good predecessor	Possible precursor	Bad predecessor
Legumes, cucumbers, cabbage	Carrots, beets, onions	Solanaceae (tomatoes, eggplants, peppers)
Garlic, onion	Potatoes, carrots, legumes, cucumbers	Cabbage, tomatoes, beets	Onion, garlic, pepper, physalis
tomatoes	Cabbage (especially cauliflower), carrots, onions, cucumbers, greens		Any nightshade, physalis
Pumpkin (cucumbers, zucchini, squash, pumpkin)	Legumes, nightshade (potatoes, tomatoes), cabbage, onions	Beets, greens	Any pumpkin
Legumes (peas, beans, beans)	Strawberries, cucumber, potatoes, cabbage,	tomatoes	perennial herbs
Carrot	Onion, cucumber	Radishes, beets, cabbage
Greenery	Cabbage, cucumbers	Legumes, potatoes, tomatoes, onions	Carrots, parsnips, celery
Eggplant	Legumes, turnip, swede, cucumber, cabbage, onion, gourds		Nightshade
Pepper	Turnip, carrot, cucumber, cabbage, swede, legumes,	Onion garlic	Solanaceae, pumpkin
Potato, cucumber, onion	Legumes, tomatoes	Carrot
Legumes, nightshade, onion, garlic	Lettuce, corn	Pumpkin, swede, carrot, turnip, radish, turnip

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Thus, referring to such tips, you can always clarify, after which, for example, plant onions or how to sow a garden bed on which tomatoes grew.

However, not only tables, but also firmly learned rules will help to correctly determine the predecessors of vegetables during planting.

Important! Categorically bad predecessors are: beets, radishes, turnips and radishes for cabbage (and vice versa); carrots, tomatoes and cabbage - for onions, beans - for carrots and cucumbers, carrots for cucumbers and beets.

But then you can plant carrots and other root crops, so this is after garlic or onions. Also, root crops grow well after greens and vice versa.

Neighboring cultures

In addition to answering the question of what to plant after, it is equally important to know what to plant with what, that is, which crops can and cannot be planted side by side. The fact is that plants have an influence on each other, which can be both positive and negative. Knowing the basic rules, you can avoid mistakes and solve many problems that prevent a stable crop.

For example, as mentioned above, the root system of plants releases toxic substances that protect the crop from diseases and pests. At the same time, such poisons can harm neighboring plants, or, on the contrary, can provide them with additional protection. So, the colins secreted by mustard have a beneficial effect on peas, carrots and garlic, but are poorly tolerated by cabbage. Knowing this feature, it is easy to determine with what peas can be planted and cabbage should not be planted.

What crops are best planted in the neighborhood

So, joint landings - important rule crop rotation, allowing optimal use limited space plot, as well as improve crop yields.
For example, potatoes and beans are great neighbors. He protects her from such a pest as caryopsis, and she fills his need for nitrogen and repels the Colorado potato beetle. In addition to beans, it is useful to place cabbage, corn, spinach, eggplant, horseradish, carrots, radish, dill, and lettuce next to potatoes. All these plants have a beneficial effect on the potato crop, removing excess moisture from the soil. And onions and garlic planted nearby protect potatoes from late blight.

By the way, garlic has a beneficial effect on many crops, so there are enough options with which to plant it. Strawberries are considered classics, as these plants are equally useful for each other: garlic protects capricious strawberries from diseases and pests, and the berry contributes to the formation more garlic cloves. The enzymes secreted by carrots have the same effect on the plant: under their influence, the garlic bulb becomes larger.

Did you know? If you plant garlic and horseradish next to each other, the amount of vitamin C increases in both.

From various diseases and pests (aphids, bears, cockchafers), garlic saves not only vegetable crops, for example, tomatoes, beets, cucumbers, carrots, but also flowers - gladioli, cloves, roses, etc. But the garlic itself from the dangerous onion flies can save marigold and chicory.

Dill and corn are something that can be planted next to cucumbers, carrots get along well with peas, peas themselves with potatoes, tomatoes and eggplants. Gourds are best planted separately.

Other rules regarding what to plant with what in the beds can be presented in the form of a table:

culture
beans	cucumbers, potatoes, cabbage, lettuce, radishes, beets, tomatoes, eggplants, gourds	peas, garlic, onion
peas	cabbage, lettuce, carrot, radish	beans, potatoes, garlic, onions, tomatoes
strawberry	garlic, onion, lettuce, radish
cucumbers	beans, garlic, cabbage, lettuce, celery, onion, greens	tomatoes, radishes, potatoes, zucchini
potato	beans, onions, garlic, cabbage, eggplant, horseradish, carrots, dill, lettuce	tomatoes, peas, sunflower
cabbage	peas, cucumbers, potatoes, lettuce, radishes, beets	garlic, onion, tomato
beet	cucumbers, lettuce	onion, cabbage
tomatoes	garlic, cabbage, lettuce, leek	peas, cucumbers, potatoes
onion	strawberries, cucumbers, lettuce, carrots, beets	beans, cabbage, tomatoes
pepper	cucumbers, kohlrabi	tomatoes, beans
zucchini	beans, beets, onions	cucumbers

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"Neighbours-enemies"

As can be seen from the above table, in addition to a successful neighborhood, there is also an extremely undesirable neighborhood. As a rule, plants "feud" due to the incompatibility of the substances they secrete. For example, black walnut has a depressing effect on most vegetables due to the juglone it releases. Vegetables are also not good for the neighborhood of wormwood. If you plant legumes and onions nearby, both will develop poorly. Literally all cultures feel oppressed with fennel, therefore given plant it is better to plant separately from others. Potatoes and cucumbers, tomatoes and strawberries are also poorly compatible.
Eggplants and tomatoes do not like the neighborhood of other nightshades; peppers and beets, cabbage and strawberries do not get along nearby.

Did you know? I wonder what is beautiful and loved by everyone conifer tree, like spruce, has an adverse effect on almost all trees, and this effect persists for decades after the spruce itself is cut down.

Sometimes it happens that plants have each other different effect depending on their number. As they say, there is medicine in a spoon, and poison in a cup. In this case, you can arrange the neighborhood of such a culture in small quantities, for example, along the edge of the garden. For example, such an experiment can be carried out with valerian, yarrow or nettle, planting them in small groups near vegetables.

Thus, it is important for any gardener to know what to plant next, and proper planning of crops during planting is a way to protect the soil from depletion and help plants natural way support each other for better growth and development.

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Increase the yield of cultivated suburban area crops allows crop rotation. Long term cultivation plants on the same bed leads to the depletion of the soil, the accumulation of pests and diseases in it. The alternation of crops is also used in order to obtain 2-3 crops from the site annually (we are talking about compacted and repeated crops). That is why many summer residents think about what and after what you can plant in the garden. Moreover, it is recommended to draw up a plan for the placement of crops on the site every year in compliance with the order of alternation of crops. In practice, this gives a better yield. next year.

Main rule: Try not to return the same culture to its original place earlier than 3-4 years later. The later it happens re-seeding, all the better.

Vegetable crops that are similar in cultivation technology can (and conveniently) be placed in the garden nearby. In this regard, cultures are divided into the following groups:

Depending on this classification, plants are recommended to be moved around the site. BUT perennial vegetables easy to plant along the fence. So, the authors of the manual “Garden. Practical Tips"Recommend to alternate crops like this:

Table number 1: Good predecessors of vegetable crops in the garden

In another source (the book "Biological Basis for Obtaining high yields vegetable crops”) we find the following table:

Table number 2: What then can be planted next year

(Compiled on the basis of an analysis of the influence of predecessors on the yield of other vegetable crops):

Rotation table #3

(Source: My Favorite Dacha magazine)

Analyzing the data of three tables, let's go specifically for some cultures:

Then plant...

Onion

The best predecessor for onions are: cucumber, tomato, as well as early white cabbage, cauliflower and early potatoes. Acceptable predecessors are legumes and green crops. This refers to the cultivation of onions for turnips and sets.

Carrot

Like carrots, so beets are best planted after onions, cucumbers and early potato. Planting of root crops and after cabbage, tomatoes is allowed.

cucumbers

For cucumbers, the best predecessors are: potatoes, tomatoes, turnip onions, cabbage (early white and cauliflower), root crops, legumes (excluding beans) and green crops. It is permissible to plant cucumbers after radishes, beets and carrots.

Tomatoes

Tomatoes can be planted after an impressive list of crops: white cabbage (early and late), cauliflower, cucumbers, legumes and green crops (including radishes), root crops, turnips.

What to plant after...

garlic

Of all three tables, only one mentions garlic as a precursor. The source says that after garlic, it is permissible to plant table beets. And in the first source (not in the table, but in the text itself) it says that after harvesting onions and garlic, summer potatoes can be planted. Potatoes are also recommended to be grown in the aisles of garlic. They coexist perfectly. But the best neighborhood in the beds is garlic and strawberries. And if we consider that onions and garlic belong to the same group of plants, then their predecessors may also have common ones.

cabbage

After cabbage, you can plant tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, turnip onions and sets, cucumbers, potatoes, zucchini and squash, pumpkin, green crops, legumes.

Ogurtsov

Cucumbers - good predecessors for cabbage, carrots, beets, tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, onions, radishes, turnips, radishes, garlic, dill, eggplant.

potato

After potatoes, it is good to plant cabbage, onions, root crops, cucumbers, greens and legumes, zucchini, pumpkins, squash, garlic.

Pepper

Pepper is not named in any of the tables as a predecessor, so we would recommend paying attention to its belonging to the Nightshade group (along with tomato and eggplant). Plants of this group may have common precursors.

beets

After beets, it is ALLOWABLE to plant white and cauliflower, onion, carrot, cucumber. And good - garlic, tomato.

Tomatoes

After tomatoes, white and cauliflower, green crops, legumes, and garlic are planted. Permissible - cucumbers, onions and root vegetables.

Kabachkov

Luke

We hope that the tables and lists compiled by us on the basis of reference books for gardeners and gardeners will help you decide on the alternation of crops on the site, develop a crop rotation plan for the next year and understand what is better to plant in the garden in the summer season 2018 😉 Great harvests for you !

is a widespread culture. When planting them in the garden, many factors should be taken into account, including the compatibility of tomatoes with other plants growing nearby.

Unfavorable neighborhood for tomatoes in the open field

When planning the location of the beds on personal plot, it is necessary to take into account the compatibility of cultures with each other. First of all, you need to find out next to which plants it is undesirable to plant tomato seedlings. The biochemical dependence of cultures is diverse.

Overwhelmingly act on each other and tomatoes, and tomatoes. You can not combine tomatoes with potatoes, as they belong to the same class of nightshade, and are affected by the same diseases and pests. Peppers and eggplants belong to the same group, so their proximity to tomatoes is undesirable.

Fennel has a depressing effect on young tomato seedlings. If dill is sown on a bed with tomatoes, then it must be removed before reaching maturity, as it will begin to take nutrients from the tomato. It is undesirable to plant a plot with tomatoes with corn, as a tall crop creates a shadow. In addition, both crops can be affected by one pest - the cotton scoop.

What are tomatoes compatible with in an open area?

Thanks to the saponin contained in tomatoes, there is an intensive growth and development of nearby plants. And asparagus, planted next to tomatoes, destroys the nematodes that infect the tomato crop with its secretions.

Tomatoes get along well next to basil. It protects tomatoes from pests, promotes growth and improves the taste of fruits. Garlic planted next to tomatoes protects them from late blight and repels spider mites. A bed with tomatoes is often planted with beans; these plants also stand well next to each other. Favorable neighbors in the garden with a tomato can be vegetables:

• parsley;
• radish;
• carrot;
• sorrel;
• celery.

Mint, sage, nettle get along well next to tomatoes. If the tomatoes are planted between gooseberry bushes, they will scare away the moth and sawfly. And tomatoes planted next to will be protected from scoops.

Gardeners often practice compacted crops, with planting several crops on the same bed that have different ripening periods. This landing is especially applied on small areas with a lack of space. Under such conditions, tomatoes are compatible with onions, radishes and garlic, where the tomato is the main crop. The width of the ridge is 1 meter. Garlic is planted in the garden in autumn in two rows with a width of 15 cm between them. In early spring in the center of the ridge, onions are planted in 4 rows, radishes are placed on the sides. After May 15, onions are harvested and seedlings of tomatoes are planted in the garden in 2 rows with a distance of 0.5 m between them.

Early cabbage, compacted with tomatoes, grows well. Seedlings are planted on a well-fertilized, cultivated area. early cabbage, with a distance between rows of 1.50 m, and between bushes - 30-35 cm. Later, tomatoes are planted between rows of cabbage.

Olya
With what can you plant beets in one garden?

Surely, like all gardeners, you have had to deal with an incredible phenomenon. By regularly growing beets in your backyard, you can see that it grows every year in completely different ways. It would seem that there are no weeds, and watering is regular, and top dressing is all done on time - the care is the same, but the amount of the crop varies. The explanation for this is the most banal, most vegetable crops cannot stand the neighborhood, they simply oppress each other. The question involuntarily arises, with what next to plant beets in the garden, so that at the end of the summer season it will please with a bountiful harvest?

Staged maturation method

When planning planting plants, many gardeners are faced with the problem of a shortage of beds. After all, very often the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site is limited to 6 acres, and so you want to break a flower garden, and fruit trees plant shrubs. So there is not so much space for vegetables.

To accommodate all the vegetables, it is quite possible to use the method of different ripening. To do this, the rows of beets alternate with:

• dill;
• lettuce;
• bow on a feather;

Plant nearby crops with different periods maturation

These crops reach technical maturity much earlier, which means that after harvesting the beets will receive additional space for the growth of tubers. Thanks to the early collection of greens, it will be possible to regularly loosen the aisle, which will positively affect the amount of the crop.

Beets grow no less comfortably next to garlic. The garlic harvest falls in mid-July, so the root crops have enough time and space for active growth.

Attention! In the case of planting with alternating rows of different crops, it is better to give preference to cylindrical beet varieties. Oval root crops require much less space, how round vegetables the same mass.

If you plan to grow cucumbers without tying them on trellises and nets, it makes sense to plant beets between them. Beet tops will partially protect the cucumber lashes from the burning rays of the sun.

Landing on the edge of the garden

Beetroot is extremely rarely sown in a separate plantation, most often it is grown along the perimeter of the beds:

• potatoes;
• cucumbers;
• cabbage;
• tomatoes;
• parsnip;
• beans.

This method allows regular loosening and thinning. Cabbage does not have to be white only. Beetroot gets along well with kohlrabi, Brussels sprouts, red-headed, colored, and even Savoy and Beijing.

Cabbage and beets in the same garden

Attention! If you prefer to combine it with zucchini, zucchini or squash, opt for bush varieties, not climbing varieties, so that powerful stems do not cover beet rows with their leaves when growing.

Strawberry Compatibility

Often, in order to save beds, gardeners sow vegetables in the aisles of strawberries or garden strawberries. Some of the gardeners even speak positively about such a neighborhood. However, such advice should be treated with caution. Pay attention to how strawberries grow in wild environment. It displaces almost all vegetation near it and grows into dense clearings. This is how its root system is arranged, in order to survive, it synthesizes poisonous secretions that oppress nearby growing crops. Therefore, it is hardly worth expecting a rich harvest with such plantings.

Marigolds repel beet pests

For pest control

Beets do not often become a favorite target for pests, but if there is a bear (cabbage) on the site, it can very badly damage young, juicy sprouts.
To scare away harmful insect plant marigolds next to the beet planting. These fragrant flowers will become a real decoration of the site and fill it with a pleasant aroma. They will also help get rid of wireworms, aphids, bacteria that cause root rot.

When planning the location of plants, it should be borne in mind that in order to obtain good harvest root crops is important not only right neighborhood vegetable crops, but also the observance of crop rotation.

How to grow beets: video