When pruning fruit trees. How to prune trees in the garden

" Trees

Tree pruning is the key to success and a must-have procedure that every experienced gardener knows about. Any fruit tree requires constant and careful care. Only in this case it will give a rich harvest.

Fruit trees such as apple, pear and stone fruits need pruning. They are very picky about pruning. Why prune fruit trees?

Pruning gardeners solve several problems at once:

1. Growth and fruiting.
2. Reducing the size of the crown.
3. The phytosanitary task is to create conditions unfavorable for pests and diseases.

The procedure for pruning trees prolongs their life and leads to a rich harvest.

If little light enters the crown, then the branches inside the crown do not bear fruit and eventually die. Fruits are formed only on those branches of the tree where the light hits.

And if tree pruning was done rarely or not at all, then the fruits will be on hard-to-reach branches, located, as a rule, high.

Thanks to the pruning process the crown of the tree is formed correctly. This leads to the growth of side branches and allows you to get more fruit on the available branches.

When and what kind of trees in the garden can be pruned

Pruning fruit trees in a particular season depends on the following factors:

• what goal the gardener wants to achieve with this procedure;
• in what climatic conditions is the garden located;
• from the type of tree.

When is the best time to prune: spring, summer, winter or autumn?

In the central and northern regions of Russia not recommended for autumn pruning, because due to severe frosts, the wounds on the trees will not have time to heal.

This also happens because the movement of sap in the tree slows down, as it goes into a state of rest. As a result, the tree can become sick and die.

Therefore, in these regions, it is best to prune in early spring rather than autumn. It is important to bear in mind that the procedure can be carried out as soon as the air temperature has risen above 0℃.

Besides it is important to start pruning from old trees, since the buds swell faster on them than on young ones, it is recommended that pruning be done strictly before the buds swell.

Pruning fruit trees in spring:

In the southern regions of the country, pruning can be done in winter period . This is due to the fact that in the south the frosts are not as severe as in the north.

Winter pruning is primarily carried out in order to rejuvenate old trees and create the correct crown for young seedlings.

Also winter pruning is often done to reduce the fruiting of young trees. It is believed that a tree that gives rich harvests for 2-3 years in a row should be given a rest.

In addition, from high yield thin branches of a young tree can break. Therefore, it is important to cut off excess branches in winter. In winter, gardeners prune first pome rocks, and then stone fruits.

The ideal dimensions of a fruit tree are 3 m high and 3 m wide. They will allow you to harvest most of the crop without the help of stepladders or ladders.

Some gardeners believe that summer is the most best period for cutting. But in this case we are talking about trees from 3 years and older. They claim that pruning during the summer months results in a thriving growth of new shoots.

In addition, if pruning is done during the fruit filling, the quality of the fruit is noticeably improved.

Another advantage of summer pruning is the juice secreted by the tree. It covers the wound, which leads to rapid healing, and also acts as a protection against pests.

Most experienced gardeners find that pruning is best done when the tree is resting. Therefore, they prefer early spring.

At what age should fruit trees be pruned?

This procedure can be started annual shoots for crown formation.

If the tree has already reached 10-15 years of age, it is considered old. In such a tree, the number of growths and productivity are reduced. He needs a rejuvenating pruning.

To do this, cut branches into 3-7-year-old wood. Thus, the crown is reduced. But by next year, young shoots will thicken it. It is important to ensure that the number of cuts on one side of the branch does not exceed three.

Which plants to do and which not

The pruning procedure is required for almost all fruit trees. Since it is it that leads to an increase in yield, allows you to accelerate the growth of a tree, and also protects its many pests and diseases.

Trim, apricot, cherry plum only when leaves appear on the trees. If this is done while the tree is dormant, then pruning can lead to fungal and disease damage to the trees.

In summer, you can remove dried branches, also shorten new shoots and remove branches that interfere with the crown.

Features of the procedure

Trimming trees is important to do carefully and follow the basic rules so as not to harm.

Timing

First of all, you need to decide on the appropriate pruning season. It will depend on the type and age of fruit trees, as well as on the location of the garden and the climate.

Preparing garden tools

The presence of all the tools necessary for carrying out this procedure will play a large role as a result of pruning.

In order to avoid an increase in the diameter of the damaged area on the tree Use only sharp tools for cutting.

• garden hacksaw;
• secateurs;
• air secateurs - secateurs on a long rod, for trimming branches at the top;
• stairs;
• glasses;
• garden pitch or paint on drying oil - the means necessary to process the cut point.

Do not trim with a rusty tool. Otherwise, the tree may get sick and die as a result.

Scheme and technology

Before proceeding with the pruning itself, it is necessary to determine why it is necessary and draw up a plan of action.

Below are the main goals that gardeners achieve with this procedure:

• form the correct crown of the tree;
• strengthen thin young shoots;
• remove crossing branches, defuse the crown to allow sunlight to penetrate it;
• remove diseased branches, making it possible to grow healthy;
• increase in the number of fruiting branches;
• prepare the tree for the winter.

If it is necessary to achieve the fastest possible growth from a fruit tree, during the pruning period it is necessary to reduce the main number of fruiting buds.

Once the goal is determined, it is important to learn pruning techniques. Several techniques are known, among which the most popular are three:

1. Cut on the kidney. This technique helps to set the correct direction of branch growth. You should find a branch with good growth. The cutting plastic of the secateurs should be turned towards the remaining part of the branch. The cut is made at a slight angle of 5 mm. in front of the kidney. The new branch will grow in the direction the bud is facing.
2. cut on the ring. This technique is used when it is necessary to remove a full-fledged branch that grows inside the crown, interferes with other branches and creates density. The scheme is as follows: in the place where the branches are connected, it is necessary to cut exactly along the outer ring.
3. Side branch cut. This technique allows you to change the direction of growth from one shoot to another. Incapacitated branches are cut off, and the side ones take on the function of the main branches.

Good post-care

If the cut diameter is more than 1 cm, the wound should be treated in without fail. To do this, you need to buy or cook your own garden pitch and treat the wound on the tree with it.

If for some reason garden pitch does not lie on the wound, you can use paint on drying oil.

Young fruit trees should be trimmed only to form the correct crown. Otherwise, pruning can lead to a deterioration in fruiting properties.

People who take care of their trees and prune correctly and on time always receive gratitude in the form of a good harvest.

If a person first decided to do this procedure it is very important to follow the recommendations knowledgeable gardeners, as this process only at first glance it seems simple.

But in fact, carelessness and ignorance can lead to the death of the plant.

Ensuring proper care of trees and shrubs in the garden will ensure fast growth and their bountiful fruiting. The gardener is required to prune the trees in the garden every year, which will not only allow the formation of the correct crown, but also prevent the crown from thickening, which can lead to the development various kinds fungal and infectious diseases. We will tell you in more detail how to properly prune trees in the fall, which will greatly simplify the care of plantings in the garden.

What is pruning for?

Fruit trees should be pruned in autumn in two ways.: thinning and shortening. This improves the growth of perennial plantings, preventing their mechanical damage by snow, strong wind, forms the correct growth of the crown, and also allows you to remove branches that no longer bear fruit, but are able to take food from the tree, which in turn worsens the yield.

Such works are not particularly difficult, so everyone, even a novice gardener, can handle them. It is only necessary to correctly determine the time when this work is performed, as well as correctly determine those branches and shoots that need to be removed and shortened. Having understood the principles of this work, you can easily carry out such an annual autumn pruning of trees and shrubs in the garden, simplifying your garden care and improving its fruiting rates.

Varieties of the procedure

To date It is customary to distinguish three types of pruning perennial plantings in the garden:

• Sanitary.
• Formative.
• Anti-aging.

Sanitary pruning involves the removal of broken, dried and diseased branches. Such pruning can be carried out in spring and autumn or at the beginning of winter.

Formative pruning of trees and shrubs in autumn is necessary for young and adult plantations, especially during the period of active growth. Such work involves thinning and shortening the shoots, which in turn improves the penetration of light inside the crown, the gardener gets the opportunity to control growth, stimulates the development of side shoots and fruit formation. Most often, formative pruning is carried out in the spring, but such work is allowed to be done in the fall, which allows you to remove all incorrectly growing shoots and form the correct crown.

Anti-aging pruning is performed on old trees that are beginning to bear fruit poorly and require special attention. When performing this work, the top of the tree is cut off, the crown opens, old shoots and branches are removed. All this allows you to improve fruiting rates, which in turn prolongs the lifespan. garden trees.

Tool used

To do this job, you will need the following tool:

You should also take care of the presence of a garden pitch, which is used to process and disinfect the cut site. You can buy such a garden var in most specialized stores or make it yourself on the basis of drying oil.

Step-by-step instructions for pruning young trees

For proper trimming you need:

Scheme for beginners

Pruning mature trees in autumn for beginners is not particularly difficult and is performed using the following technology:

Rules for caring for old trees

Usually, by 15–20 years after planting trees, their yield indicators are significantly reduced. Decide this problem can by carrying out appropriate rejuvenating pruning of the garden. Such work is carried out in September or October, after the leaves have completely fallen. With such a rejuvenating pruning, the top is cut off and the lateral processes are removed, which are already five or more years old.

Extra shoots inside the crown are removed, which can interfere with the growth of young shoots. Also, when performing such work, all broken, dry and diseased branches should be removed. Proper conduct such a rejuvenating pruning will allow you to get excellent yields in a year and a half, which will last for 4-5 seasons.

Common Mistakes

Common mistakes include the following:

Such spring and autumn pruning is performed and fruit trees in regions with temperate climate. But in the northern regions in the fall, when there is already a possibility of frost, it is not recommended to carry out such manipulations with trees and shrubs.

The timing of the autumn pruning will directly depend on the climatic features in your area. It is best to do this work in October, when the trees will shed their leaves, the harvest will be harvested, but there will be another 2-3 weeks before frost.

It is necessary to carry out autumn pruning of apple trees after the foliage has completely fallen off and harvested. Usually this work is done by gardeners in October and November. All broken, rotten and old branches are removed. Experienced gardeners it is recommended to remove shoots growing close to each other, which leads to a significant thickening of the crown. All shoots that grow at an acute angle or are directed inside the crown are removed.

All cuts after such pruning of the apple tree should be treated with paint based on drying oil or garden varnish. Existing wounds on dry branches should be treated immediately, but hemp from young shoots is covered with var only a day later.

At right choice the time of this procedure, the apple tree will easily endure such pruning, and next year growth will improve significantly, numerous new shoots will appear, the correct crown will be formed, and subsequently the gardener will be able to get apple orchard excellent harvest.

One of the features of pear trimming is that it is recommended to perform such work in a year. Sanitary autumn pruning such fruit trees are allowed only with a stable plus and no danger of frost in the coming weeks. Remember that pears should not be pruned in cold weather, since such trees do not tolerate frost well, subsequently they get sick a lot and bear fruit poorly.

With formative pruning, the top is shortened and no more than five main lateral skeletal branches are left, forming a pyramidal crown. Every five years, it is worth performing a rejuvenating pruning, which avoids thickening and maintains yields at the proper level.

Correct autumn pruning plum

Plum and other stone fruit trees will require appropriate attention from the gardener. Proper autumn pruning will ensure high-quality preparation for winter sleep, and subsequently such trees grow actively and bear excellent fruit. This work should be done immediately after the leaves fall no later than the first of November.

Pruning plums in the fall is not particularly difficult:

pruning fruit trees

Autumn pruning of fruit trees will significantly improve the fruiting of the garden. It is necessary to perform such work with cherry plum, shadberry, sea buckthorn, quince and viburnum only after the leaves have fallen. We can recommend that you limit yourself to only necessary measures, remove damaged branches and shoots growing at right angles to the main crown.

If rejuvenating pruning of fruit trees is necessary, then one or two skeletal branches are allowed to be removed, and all branches that are already 5 years old and which practically do not bear fruit are cut off. In the subsequent planting, after performing such a rejuvenating pruning, they quickly restore their yield indicators, which persist for 5-7 years.

Shrub pruning technology will depend on specific type planting in the garden. So, for example, two-three-year-old raspberries should be cut to the very bush, leaving only the rhizome in the ground, after which the soil is mulched and high-quality thermal insulation is performed. But red and black currants should be cut in winter using a different technology, removing only old two-three-year-old branches, while forming a powerful bush with several skeletal shoots.

When it is necessary to remove not only the old fruit-bearing branches, but also the young shoots that appeared in spring and autumn can reach a height of 2-3 centimeters. Such young shoots will subsequently bear fruit poorly, so they should also be removed, leaving only one rhizome. A strong raspberry, even after such a serious pruning, will be able to quickly increase its green mass next year, delighting the gardener with a magnificent harvest. delicious berries.

Trimming methods

Pruning fruit trees has a variety of purposes. Gardeners distinguish several main methods of pruning:

1. Formative. considered the most important. Promotes the correct formation of the crown and determines general form trees in the area. It is carried out in early spring, before the start of the movement of juice.
2. Regulatory. Needed to correct an already formed crown. Extra shoots are removed, overloading the tree and preventing good lighting. The period is during the summer.
3. Recovery. It is carried out if the plant needs rehabilitation. Dry, damaged branches are removed. Thus, the flow of nutrients to the updated shoots is enhanced.
4. Anti-aging. Allows old trees to renew, increase the growth of young fruit-bearing shoots. Promotes the awakening of dormant buds, activates flowering. Held in early spring.
5. Sanitary. Designed to prevent diseases and improve trees damaged by external factors. Plants can be infected with a fungus. The branches begin to dry, the bark turns black and flakes off. To prevent the tree from dying completely, all diseased shoots are removed. Some branches are broken under the influence weather conditions and begin to die off, they should also be removed.

Wood processing after pruning

In order not to weaken the vital functions of the plant, after pruning, it is necessary to immediately treat the wounds. On healthy trees, cut points, especially large ones, can be covered with garden pitch.. It prevents cracking and remains on wood for 2 years.

Small sections up to 3 cm in diameter can be coated with water-based acrylic paint. Also suitable for this purpose Oil paint on natural drying oil or minium. In the absence of such funds, you can use ordinary clay. When cutting diseased plants, treat the tools with alcohol or a solution of manganese.

The surface to be treated must be dry, smooth and even. All protruding particles must be removed. Overgrowing of the wound starts from the bark, it should not exfoliate.

Tightly adhering to the cut surface, the putty provides protection against leakage of juice and drying of the branch. It is necessary to process even small sections, since the juice flowing down them is a favorable environment for the reproduction of harmful microbes.

The main goal of pruning fruit trees in the garden is the ratio as well as the most complete exchange of nutrients necessary for the tree for fruiting and growth between the root system on one side and the crown on the other.

Among the crown formation methods, usually 2 are distinguished (if we are talking about decorative pruning, you can add a few more, but this is material for another article for which we will definitely find a place on vsaduidoma.ru later).

1. Shortening - that is, in fact, the removal of any parts of the branch
2. Thinning is when entire branches are removed to form the correct crown.

What does cropping give when using the shortening method? It is very simple - when shortening a tree, it both gives birth to new buds and awakens old ones, the so-called sleeping ones.

Thinning, as a method of pruning, is more correct to use when the crown is too thick, there is little light on the fruits, because of which they lose their taste, their beneficial features, and what is important not only for summer residents, but also for farmers - presentation.

Optimal is such a thinning pruning, in which the crown of the tree becomes, as it were, translucent, openwork, with a slight shading, and not a dark spot.

What is shaping pruning and when should it be done?

After planting new seedlings in the garden, they should be at rest for some time - everything, of course, depends on the type of seedlings - more on that below) in the first season they should not be cut at all, except perhaps when you see that a separate branch can cause some kind of seedling It's obviously irreparable damage.

For the next season or after 2 years, when the seedling has taken root and successfully overwintered, it is already possible to proceed to the so-called "forming crown pruning". It is done, first of all, for the convenience of collecting fruits, as well as caring for a tree, and as a rule, unless otherwise intended, it is made low. When working on the formation of the crown, I try to cut the trees so that from the top step of my highest garden stepladder I can easily reach most of the branches.

The simplest and most common form is the sparse-tiered one familiar to many. It consists of tiers of skeletal branches that extend from the main trunk, and one main conductor, or as it is also called the "leader".

When pruning trees in orchard must be kept simple, but important rule. It consists in the so-called subordination of branches. That is, the lower branches should always be thicker than the upper ones. You can deviate from this rule only by carrying out decorative pruning, over trees that you value little and, for example, make a garden on trellises.

For the next season, choose the shoot that has developed the most, making the general pruning thirty percent longer than the rest, the so-called "skeletal" branches.

After that, move on to shortening other strong branches, those that diverge from the main tree trunk at an angle of less than 90 degrees.

On the first tier of the tree, leave 2-3 skeletal branches extending from the tree trunk at an angle of forty-five degrees. At the same time, make sure that the tops of such branches are cut “under one”, that is, they must be on the same level.

The next tier should be 50-65 centimeters from the other. As a rule, the formation of the crown is carried out correctly and is considered complete when the main branches are left on the tree, and branches of the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th levels are on them.

What is the "transfer of branches to bear fruit" and how to do it correctly

This is done so that the remaining branches after such pruning begin to bear fruit sooner.

To do this, you need to remove the tops that appear (see the dictionary), which will constantly grow where the largest branches were removed.

In addition, in order for new branches to grow horizontally, flower buds are laid on them and fruits appear, unnecessary shoots are cut into a developed side branch, and first-year shoots are cut into an external bud.

For the same on young fruit trees at the beginning summer season, one and two-year-old branches of the 1st, and then the 2nd tiers, carefully bend to the bottom and secure with a rope or tourniquet.

What is trimming and how to do it

To maintain the normal fruiting of trees in the garden, branches need to be cut annually. Take this as a basic rule - this is not a one-time job.

The main difference in the process of pruning old fruit-bearing trees from those planted relatively recently is that in old ones, the branches are shortened to a shorter length. This is understandable - many fruit trees have a relatively short lifespan and even shorter active fruiting, and vitality old trees are no longer the same. To this it is also worth adding the damage from frost, poor ecology, diseases and pests.

The main skeletal branches that have grown by 60 or more centimeters must be cut to 30% of the original length, shoots and processes are simple - they are cut into three buds.

If one of the branches grows stronger than the others, then in order not to harm the tree, its growth must be restrained, observing the already aforementioned rule of “subordination of branches”.

The top of the tree crown should be cut off when thinning more, while the branches that are located on the main branch-leader at the first and second levels should be completely removed.

How to carry out sanitary pruning of fruit trees in the garden

Fruit trees, especially peaches and apricots, often freeze at the end of winter. Sanitary pruning brings affected plants back to life, helping not to waste nutrients to the awakening of buds on dying branches.

In order to understand which branches need to be removed, they are carefully cut. If the wood is light or light green - the branch is healthy, if it is light brown - it is frozen, brown color indicates its death. Dying and damaged branches should be taken out of the garden and burned or crushed and used for compost.

Anti-aging pruning

To stimulate the growth of branches of aging trees with small fruits and an annual growth of less than 30-35 cm, all growth over the past few years is removed on them:

with weak rejuvenation, 2-3-year-old wood is cut;

with moderate - 4-5 years old;

with a strong - 6-8-year-old.

General pruning rules - to summarize what has been said

We mentioned above that a tree suffers from a lack of sunlight. To the above, one can only add that the general care of the tree is also difficult - for example, spraying: it is difficult for a solution of pesticides to penetrate the curtain from the net of young shoots.

Leave the distance between the extreme branches of the 1st and 2nd tier not less than 60-75 centimeters, 2nd and 3rd 25-25 centimeters.

The smaller the angle of those branches that you plan to leave and that move away from the leader, the greater the load they can withstand (applies to both snow and wind, and crops). Therefore, it is preferable to leave inflows extending from the main one by a degree not less than 45.

Branches growing towards the center of the tree crown must always be removed. You also need to do with parallel branches growing upwards.

The removal of the so-called "sprouts-tops" should also be done constantly, especially pay attention to those that have grown at the base of large branches and near the main trunk of the tree (straight from the ground).

Figure 1: Pruning scheme: A - bad placement, B - good placement for the first tier, C - good placement for the first and second tiers.

Trimming types

How to prune a tree on the so-called "outer bud"

Unnecessary, superfluous one-year layers are pruned to the outer kidney. This is the name of the kidney, which is located on the outside of the new shoots.

This must be done to ensure the correct growth of branches in a horizontal direction, resulting in an increase in the yield of fruits and fruits.

A - right, at an angle of 45 °, B - wrong, too deep, the kidney will dry out, C - wrong, a stump-thorn is left.

How to cut into a ring.

Extra large branches are cut out “on the ring”, without leaving a stump, otherwise a bunch of unnecessary shoots will come out of it or it will die off and become a place for the formation of a hollow: G - right, D - wrong, a stump is left, E - wrong, an annular influx is cut off. Thick branches are cut off, having previously filed them from the underside: W - wrong, 3 - right.

Figure 2: External bud and ring pruning views

Features of the formation and pruning of different crops

Pome fruit pruning begins in February, when the danger of severe frosts has passed, at a temperature not lower than -2-4 ° C. At lower temperatures, the wood becomes brittle and it is impossible to make even cuts. The best time for pruning stone fruits - the end of March-April.

How to prune pome fruits - apple and pear

Usually, in young pome trees, the annual growth is 30-50 cm, in stone fruits - 70-100 cm. If it is less, the trees need to be rejuvenated.

Apple tree

Pruning depends on the characteristics of the variety and, of course, on the strength of growth and rootstock:

on strong and medium-sized rootstocks, the crown is formed according to a sparse-tiered system;

on medium-sized ones - in the form of a spindle-like bush;

on dwarfs - in the form of a slender spindle or palmette on trellises.

When growth is weakened to 20-25 cm, the tree is rejuvenated every 3-4 years for 2-3-year-old wood, with a decrease in fruiting, for 4-6-year-old wood.

Pear

(also read about pear pruning and crown formation)

Formed with a compressed crown and a strong central conductor. The main technique for a pear is thinning and shortening to the outer kidneys. On trees grafted on vigorous rootstocks, the branches are shortened by 1/3-1/2 of the length of the annual growth, and the branches on the skeletal branches are moderately 1/5 of the length to avoid excessive branching. Pears grafted on quince are formed in the form of a bowl, cutting out the central conductor.

Proper pruning of stone fruits - plums, cherry plums, cherries

Considering the strong thickening of the crowns and the fruiting characteristics of stone fruits, the main method of pruning is thinning.

Cherries

Young trees with an increase of up to 1 m per year are shortened by 50%. The sparsely-tiered crown of the sweet cherry is formed from 5-6 branches: in the lower tier, on the branches of the first order, 2-3 branches of the 2nd order are laid at recommended intervals of 50 centimeters.

Formed trees are pruned weakly, limited to thinning. Remember, sweet cherries bear fruit on bouquet branches that form on old wood, which means thinning is the best technique.

Cherry

Annual sanitary pruning of the crown is carried out by shortening and thinning. Cherry bears fruit on annual growths of the vegetative type, which means that the growth is shortened only if it reaches 40 cm. The main pruning method is thinning.

Also below in the photo we offer you, dear gardeners, to see several types of pruning of trees and shrubs in the garden for the most important, three-year growth cycle.

Pruning a garden - types and methods

It is she who helps to achieve a balance between the process of fruiting and the growth of fruit trees. In this case, the degree of pruning primarily depends on the type of rootstock. The basic rule: the branches of the "giants" on vigorous rootstocks are shortened only slightly or not touched at all. But trees grafted onto low-growing rootstocks are always pruned heavily (see the figure on the right).
As a rule, a tree on a low-growing rootstock is formed in the form of a spindle-shaped bush. With this shape of the crown, all branches extending from the central conductor are oriented horizontally or slightly elevated.
Important: in the first year after planting, the branches in the upper part of the crown are shortened more than in the lower part (see the figure below on the left). Trees on vigorous rootstocks, as a rule, are grown in the form of a semi-stem with a spherical crown. In order to form it, several powerful skeletal branches of the first order, evenly spaced around the trunk, are left, directed rather steeply upwards. Later, they will overgrow with fruit twigs and sink under their own weight.
1. Heavy pruning stimulates very active growth of new shoots and the development of long lateral branches with large quantity flower buds.
2. If you remove only the tops of the branches, the growth of young shoots will be weak. After such pruning, mostly short side branches will appear.

• In the first year side shoots shorten so that the crown acquires a pyramidal shape. Next year, remove all vertically growing shoots. But do not cut the central conductor and side branches!
• When buying, choose a young plant with 3-4 powerful skeletal branches. After planting, remove all vertical shoots growing inside the crown. Shorten the skeletal branches and the central conductor so that they are approximately at the same level. In this case, the central shoot should rise above the side shoots by about 10 cm.
• • Top: Heavy pruning encourages very vigorous new shoot growth and the development of long side branches with many flower buds.
  • Bottom: If only the tops of the branches are removed, the growth of young shoots will be weak. After such pruning, mostly short side branches will appear.

Choosing a pruning tool

It's time for spring pruning of trees and shrubs.

In the southern regions, this time comes a little earlier, until March, during the dormant period of plants. To the north, pruning is carried out later, until the beginning of flowering. There are many advantages to such a late pruning in the northern regions, for example, trees cut later recover faster after a harsh winter. It is worth preparing in advance for seasonal work and purchasing the right tool. But many face difficulties when choosing in a store or garden center - the modern assortment is so diverse. How to choose the right tool for cropping will be discussed in this article.

At first for garden pruning trees, you will need three tools: a simple pruner - for near branches, a meter pruner - for medium shoots in eight to ten years old trees, and a long pruner for removing branches at a height.

Pruning shears

When choosing a secateurs, first of all, pay attention to its type. A simple guillotine-type pruner is designed like scissors. Another type of pruner, more powerful, is a contact. With such a tool, the knife rests against the receiving part, as a result, more force is pressed. But does this mean that a contact pruner is preferable? It depends on your goals. So, with a pruner with intersecting blades, it is easy to cut thin branches, as well as cut them into a ring, that is, without hemp. It is good to remove thicker knots, up to 3 cm, with a contact pruner, as well as shorten the branches, but you cannot get to the base of the shoot with such a tool - a stump remains, which is unacceptable during pruning. So which of the two types do you prefer? For starters, you can stop at a guillotine-type pruner or purchase both tools, depending on the tasks at hand.

The second issue that the gardener faces is the choice of pruner body. It comes in aluminum and plastic. The first is more reliable, will withstand a more serious load. Plastic secateurs are also quite good, depending on the quality of production.

Pay attention to the design of the spring: the more complex it is, the more expensive the tool, but such a pruner can break faster. A simple rule applies here: simpler design, for example with a removable spring, the better. A defective spring can always be replaced with a new one.

Important when choosing a secateurs and the thickness of the blade. It is better to prefer a product with thin blades, about 2 - 2.5 cm. It will be much easier to work with such a tool.

We also look at the quality of metal hardening. As a rule, the quality of steel from reputable manufacturers is high, such a pruner will last a long time. Hard hardened steel is brittle and knives are hard to sharpen. Weak hardening is the reason for bending secateurs that quickly become dull.

Garden shears or pruner

Usually designed for use with both hands, their handles can be from 30 to 90 cm long, form a convenient lever and are telescopic (retractable). The design can be guillotine and contact type, as well as with amplifiers (ratchet mechanism). Guillotine loppers leave a nice clean cut and are suitable for live wood. A lopper with interlocking blades pushes more than it cuts, so it is more suitable for trimming dry, dead branches.

Knot garden saw

Knots with a thickness of more than 3 cm will help to remove a garden saw. The main thing you need to pay attention to when choosing a saw is the sharpening of the tooth. When pruning trees, the quality of the cut is important. A saw with a plain tooth beveled to one side produces a rough cut that will require additional trimming.

A good garden saw should have a tooth with an additional bevel - the wound after cutting with such a tool will heal much faster. On sale there are saws with a trihedral sharpening and with holes on the blade. This design provides a clean and easy cut.

The handle of a garden saw should be with a convenient rounding, such a handle device reduces fatigue when performing work. It can also be reinforced with a metal plate.

The choice of garden saws is large, so be guided by the price that suits you and its quality.

Who's the last one to CUT?

In order for all the green pets in the garden to look like brave guardsmen, you need to “take” them to the “hairdresser” regularly and in strict order. Is there no such specialist? How not? What are you on? Read and master the right gardening profession.

And how she jumps!

From childhood I learned that any gardener without patience is nowhere. But I read an article where the author, in particular, complained that young cherries did not grow in him. Yes, this happens quite often, and, of course, not only with this one. fruit crop. I'll tell you how I managed to negotiate with my "thinking" pear.

I bought it on the market: a late variety, a healthy seedling, even, without damage. When planting, she did everything as it should: she fertilized the hole, shed it, sprinkled the roots of the tree, slightly compacted the earth and watered it again. Only grow!

By the way, pears are very fond of water, and they bloom only when their roots grow so long that they themselves can get moisture from the depths.

And here my pear sits for two, three, four, five, six years ... I constantly fed her all the time, weeded around her, loosened, dug, and at least she would have henna. Finally, unable to stand it, I decided to transplant it to another corner of the garden. But, since I already knew that young trees should be planted on the growing Moon and on the fertile days of Leo, Aries and Sagittarius, I prepared everything in advance and began to wait for a convenient time. I waited. And on the new moon, cutting off the frail stem (leaving only 11 cm above the graft), I planted the pear in a well-filled hole. It was in the fall of 2015.

And what do you think? Over the next summer, the tree suddenly jumped as much as 54 cm! And in 2017, the pear turned out to be already more than a meter high, and it grew two trunks at once, one of which, however, I removed this early spring so that the tree does not spray its strength. And now I will form a pear so that it develops not only upwards, but also in breadth - I want to make its crown rounded, since tall “thin” trees are harder to maintain (and you also suffer with harvesting) ..

So, dear, pinch on the fruitful day on the new moon (or two days before the new moon) those branches on your cherry that you have already cut. And next early spring, before the buds open, pour it from the crown to the ground with a life-giving solution of urea (400 g per bucket of water). By this means, by the way, it is good to process everything berry bushes, and apple trees will be grateful for such top dressing. And as for the cherry specifically, it loves mulch, dry ash and celandine to grow under it. If all this does not help, you, Anatoly Andreevich, will have to transplant the tree to another place. Just not next to the apple tree - they are not so hot as friends. Well, if everything goes well, then switch your attention to the correct and timely pruning. By the way, can I now tell you everything I know about her? Yes, I probably will. Moreover, among the readers of "Dacha" there will certainly be many who would like to clarify this issue for themselves. For example, in No. 2 for this year, Elena Stanislavovna Goryunova, in the article “In one fell swoop”, was interested in “cutting” the apple tree.

Song about rabbits

I will tell you about my experience of pruning both on an adult tree and on eight-year-olds.

The former owners of the site left me an autumn apple tree, which certainly changed its third decade. And in the season before last, her branches began to dry out, and the bark began to peel off. In short, she was bent, cordial. And her fruits are very tasty, large, the pulp is creamy, sweet and sour, in moderation. It's a pity to lose such kindness.

And I started looking for advice on how to be here. And the answer was found, and even in several versions - in letters about the fight against bacterial burns. Indeed, according to all the signs described by readers, it was precisely such a misfortune that happened to my apple tree. I cut down all the diseased branches, leaving only a branched trunk, and treated all the cuts with metronidazole (spread 10 tablets in a bucket of water).

And the disease subsided, because the next summer, new shoots began to grow on the cut sites. A little later, she appeared on the main trunk - good, strong.

I think that this summer it will be possible to form a crown already, having precisely determined what to cut and what to leave (after all, you also need to thicken in moderation). And to you, dear Elena Stanislavovna, I advise you to leave the best branch on the apple tree, and cut down all the rest to the ground, but only necessarily on the new moon and on a fertile day. And do not forget at least occasionally to water this unfortunate apple tree under the root.

And now about eight-year-old trees and their pruning.

A few years ago, the winter turned out to be snowy, cold, so hungry bunnies ate their bark, and on such a scale that they completely killed one. The rest I decided to save. I started by sawing off all the tops of them, leaving only the “columns” that did not suffer, as they were under the snow (later they asked me for a long time why I poked sticks in the garden).

Spring, meanwhile, was gaining momentum, and the "columns", to my joy, came to life: they released small buds, from which young twigs then violently climbed. And now my sufferers are already full-fledged trees again, and some of them even began to bear fruit.

By the way, with the help of cardinal pruning, currant bushes can also be updated: in early spring or very late autumn, cut them off level with the ground, cover them with fertile soil, and on top - with fallen leaves.

And then, by the end of next summer, you, dear readers, will grow a healthy young bush, which next year will already give good harvest. This has been verified more than once by me and my neighbors (and they are all excellent, hard-working and intelligent people). But, of course, I do all pruning (we are even talking about removing individual extra branches) only on the waning moon or four days after the full moon (and not on the days of Cancer, Scorpio and Pisces), since this is a “wet” time, and wounds on plants, they heal so badly (all cuts immediately begin to “cry”) that some weak “patients” may even die. And with the waning moon, the cut branch will not give growth very soon (or will not give it at all), which means that thickening does not threaten.

Scourge in a cage

So, she said about the apple tree, cherry and pear. The plum remained, because it also has its own special quirks. For example, Galina Nikolaevna Kozlova in the note " garden problems"Complained that she did not understand why she refuses to bear fruit. Yes, sometimes loosening and adding organics is not enough. Personally, in such cases, in early spring and late autumn, I spray the tree with a solution of iron sulfate, and two weeks after that with urea. And also root dressing I do: in 3 liters of water I dilute 70 g of ammopho-ski and 1 liter of fermented grass. Plum generally likes to be soft near its trunk, and therefore the mulch for it is the first thing.

Let me tell you more about the blackberry. My daughter and I made a “cage” for her 1.2 m high from wooden bars, and now I put all the regrown lashes on the crossbars and braid them - it turns out a green basket. And I pinch only those that grow up to 3 m. For the winter, I take off all the lashes, tie them lightly in separate bundles, cover them with burlap, corn stalks, spruce branches and sprinkle with earth.

But before that, I first water the bushes abundantly, apply manure, liquid fertilizer (40 g of ammophoska and superphosphate per bucket of water), cover with fresh mulch.

And then the blackberry hibernates without problems, in the spring the green foliage even remains on the lashes. In the new season, I repeat everything: I remove the old blackened whips, I braid the young ones again. By the way, I want to thank L. A. Zauzolkov, who in his article “Vaccination with clothespins” suggested advice - to do pinching during vaccinations. Indeed, a good idea!

With the help of readers' advice, I cured gum disease and my apricot - mustard from a jar, which I lubricated the wounds, turned out to be a miracle cure!

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Proper pruning can keep the plant strong, strong and beautiful. In fruit trees, the quality and quantity of the crop is significantly improved. Most the right time for circumcision, you can call the end of the winter period and the beginning of spring. At this time, the plant is dormant, all growth processes are still very slow, and the wood is no longer frozen. In this article, we will look at the types of pruning of fruit trees, find out when it is better to cut them - in spring or autumn.

Tree pruning time in spring

An important question in tree pruning is when exactly to do it. If you carry out this procedure too early, while still holding low temperatures, the tree may not tolerate frost. If you tighten with pruning before the start of sap flow, the plant will “cry” for a long time.

The ideal weather for "mowing" the garden is clear, slightly frosty, with an air temperature of at least -5 ° C. AT middle lane tree pruning in spring is usually limited to the period from mid-March to mid-April.

Timing of pruning trees in the fall

As for autumn pruning:

It is carried out after the fall of the leaves. Dried, broken, rotten branches are cut off, which also grow in the wrong direction.

If the tree has grown very actively and the crown does not allow enough light to pass through, then additional summer pruning is carried out.

It is advisable to foresee these moments in the spring, because then the tree is at rest and it is easier to tolerate the procedure.

An important point: winter pruning is carried out only in regions with a warm climate, because in the cold the branches can be too fragile and break, which will damage the bark. The same point should be taken into account when pruning in autumn. The procedure must be carried out before the first frost.

Existing types of tree pruning

Used to rejuvenate trees and shrubs different types trimmings, there are about five of them, a combination is also possible.

• The first type is formative. Initially, it is required to give the desired shape and size of the crown. But you need to know how to properly prune fruit trees. All extra branches are cut off at the very trunk, large ones - by a third, thin ones - twice.
• The second type is regulatory. Aimed at maintaining a balance between crown growth and fruiting. All vertical, skeletal branches and processes inside the tree are cut. Such actions will allow you to give the crown the shape of a pyramid.
• The third type is rejuvenating. This pruning is done for maximum growth all branches (old and young).
• The fourth type is restorative. If the tree or its branches have been subjected to frost or mechanical damage, then partial pruning is carried out.
• The fifth type is sanitary. This is the pruning of damaged, diseased, dry or broken branches. In practice, gardeners often combine all types of rejuvenation.

How to prune trees for a good harvest

To receive bountiful harvest, you should thin out the crown of the tree. This will allow the ovary of the fetus to receive the amount of sunlight necessary for growth. But not everyone can do it right.

Currently, gardeners practice several methods of crown trimming. Giving optimal shape krone different cultures, you can increase the yield of plants several times.

For example, a bushy crown is more suitable for plums, peaches. The shape of such a crown resembles a ball. This allows the tree to better tolerate winter frosts and, accordingly, it is better to bear fruit.

For apple and pear trees, a pyramidal crown is more suitable. This allows the fruits not only to grow better, but also affects their taste.

The free form of the crown is suitable for quince. The plant is pruned only to remove dry or diseased branches. Otherwise, it grows as mother nature wishes.

Principles of spring tree pruning

Planning garden work“When is it better to prune fruit trees in spring” also depends on the neglect and density of the garden. In addition, during the winter, some branches could break, others could split under the snow that had settled on them. Then a "haircut" is inevitable. If there are no visible injuries, then pruning can be neglected. Only for the formation of the crown will require a slight correction.

By general principles fruitful formation, strong plant when "haircut" remove:

• inclined branches extending from the trunk at an acute angle;
• twisted shoots directed to the middle of the crown;
• non-fruiting branches (according to the results of the yield of previous years) or too long, curved;
• part of the crown, inclined to the ground and interfering with tilling the soil under the tree and watering.

Autumn tree pruning

In order for a tree to survive the winter well, it must be provided with some kind of comfortable conditions. The main task pursued during the autumn pruning of fruit trees is the removal of everything superfluous, which will interfere with the normal development of the tree. First of all, this applies to diseased, old, dry branches, which are a habitat for various pests. All branches with fungus and lichen are subject to removal. It will not be superfluous to process trees iron vitriol. If there are intertwined branches on the trees, they are also removed. The same applies to unnecessary growth.

Similarly, attention is paid to the tops: if they are drying out, or they are completely dried up, or diseased parts are present, it is necessary to remove them to the living tissues of the tree. If the tree has branches that could break in a strong gust, causing damage to the tree, they must be removed. For pruning, depending on the diameter of the branches, a hacksaw or pruner is used. After trimming, all sections must be treated with an antiseptic.

To perform pruning of fruit trees correctly, you need to know that it can be of two types - thinning and shortening. Thinning provides free access to light and air. For mature trees, thinning should be done at intervals of 2-3 years. As for shortening, such pruning contributes to the formation of new side branches. For the correct and quick pruning of trees in the garden, you need to follow a certain sequence of actions. First, you need to identify damaged branches growing inside the crown and remove them. You also need to inspect the tree for the presence of branches that are closely adjacent to each other and rub accordingly. You need to remove the one that is weaker. Branches that grow at an acute angle and vertically upwards are also removed. Do not forget to process all the cuts at the end.

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Schemes for pruning pears, cherries, apple trees in spring

• Pruning fruit trees in spring scheme for pears:

In winter, branches freeze and tops appear. They are completely removed or cut.

Pruning too much will weaken the tree and fruit will appear much later than expected. It is better to do a moderate pruning.

It is useful to shorten annual branches slightly. It will only make them stronger.

• For apple trees:

Before you start pruning, you need to clean the trunk, the main branches of the shoots.

Rejuvenate an old plant, increase productivity by removing a third of branches and shoots - the main thing is not to overdo it.

It needs to be pruned over several years.

• For cherries, cherries:

In young trees, five to seven strong branches are left, “looking” in different directions. The distance between them is up to 10 centimeters.

All weak branches are removed.

The conductor should be longer than the rest by 20 centimeters.

Cherries and sweet cherries are pruned only in spring.

Autumn pruning of an apple tree

The goal is to eliminate weak, dry, diseased branches of apple trees with signs of decay, black cancer, and other dangerous conditions. Do not worry, you will not bring harm, because during this period the plant is already at rest.

Action plan:

• Start with old large branches that have withered or are badly damaged.
• Proceed to remove branches that grow at an acute angle.
• All places of cuts are covered with a garden pitch, if it is not there, then use paint on drying oil. Young branches are not processed immediately, but after a day.
• Burn all cut shoots and twigs.

There are only two main types of pruning, with which you can regulate growth, healthy condition and quality of fruiting. garden plants. This is shortening and thinning - using these two techniques, any type of tree is formed and at any age.

They form a crown in order to create a reliable skeleton of a tree, so to speak, its basis, to speed up the ripening of the plant's crop. Pruning or thinning is used to stimulate the plant to achieve the desired size and fruit-bearing functions.

How to prune trees (photo below) correctly and with maximum efficiency? Distinguish 4 types of tree pruning:

• formative;
• regulatory;
• rejuvenating;
• restoring.

The timing of pruning trees depends on the expected result. Traditionally, it is carried out at the end of winter, in early spring, when the active formation of new buds and shoots begins. Thinning can also be carried out in the summer, when the spring shoots have already grown enough and make it possible to judge the density of the crown and the need for thinning.

The main part of adult, actively fruiting plants does not require formative pruning of trees and only needs regular thinning in order to open access to light and ventilate the crown.

You can entrust the care of your plants to professional gardeners. We guarantee that your garden will be the best in the area!

How and when to prune trees, rules and methods:

According to the seasons, they distinguish: spring, summer, autumn and winter pruning of trees, although the latter should be used with extreme caution, due to the fact that with the onset of cold weather, the vital activity of the plant slows down and any mechanical intervention is fraught with further diseases and simply death.

• How to prune trees in spring: the bulk of the tree pruning process occurs in March and early April. The main goal of the entire procedure is to shorten large branches in order to avoid overloading them during the fruiting period and activating the growth of young shoots. Do not forget about the excessive thickening of the plant, when small shoots "clog" the inside of the crown. Such young shoots should be removed immediately, and one should not forget about large, skeleton-forming branches, since an improperly built skeleton adversely affects the future general condition of the tree and its fruiting. Here are 7 simple tricks with which you will surely learn how to prune fruit trees correctly:

1. all shoots extending from the trunk at an acute angle should be removed, since unwanted chipping or splitting of the branch may occur in this place;
2. it is necessary to remove all shoots that grow sharply upwards parallel to the trunk - they bear little fruit and are not of great value;
3. remove all shoots that “look” inside the crown - this will help leave a gap for good ventilation and light entering the center of the tree;
4. shorten the barrel in time, which will allow right time to form convenient dimensions of the plant;
5. for better healing of the cuts, do not be too lazy to process them by special means- garden pitch or oil paint;
6. the entire young growth of the tree should be shortened by a third to allow the main skeleton of the plant to form;
7. you should not cut the fruit buds, on which flowers will form in the future, and then fruits.

• How to prune trees in summer- this type of work has several tasks: firstly, summer pruning will restrain vegetative growth, secondly, it will allow old trees to return fruit-bearing properties, and thirdly, after rejuvenating pruning, it will quickly form a new crown. It should be carried out in the first half of summer, so as not to greatly weaken the tree. For stone fruit representatives, this type of pruning will make it possible to regulate the share of the load of the current crop on the tree and provide favorable conditions for the development of overgrowing branches.
• How to prune trees in autumn: First of all, it is worth starting to do this only after the end of sap flow. So the plant will better adapt to the cold, and the cuts will heal faster. The order of work carried out is as follows:

1. first, all dry, damaged, broken and growing branches of the crown are removed;
2. competing shoots or intersecting with each other are cut out;
3. branches are cut that grow strictly vertically upwards or located at an acute angle;
4. again, all sections or damage to the bark are lubricated with special solutions for better healing;
5. diseased or infested wood should be removed from the site immediately to avoid further spread of infection.

• How to prune trees in winter and should it be done at all? It is best to entrust this process to specialists, due to the fact that on the one hand it is quite simple to carry out this kind of work, and on the other hand, if the process is carried out incorrectly, you can easily harm even the healthiest plant. Trees in winter almost do not experience any inconvenience, since all vital processes are inhibited. And also all the “flaws” become visible and the areas to be processed are better viewed.

Specialists "Treemaker" with vast experience in different kind trimming trees and shrubs, with high professionalism will carry out any necessary process. We are often approached with the question: “How to prune trees in the garden, at the dacha or personal plot? We quickly find a solution to the problem and are always ready to give necessary recommendations. Call!

The most frequently asked questions in our practice:

• How to prune apple trees and when is the best time to do it?

Spring is the best time to work with an apple tree. Young plants are pruned in early April a few weeks before the plant blooms. Adult apple trees can be pruned at any time of the year, the only exception is severe frosts, then this should not be done. Pruning apple trees and other fruit trees has a beneficial effect on strengthening young branches, as well as on the correct formation of the crown. The influx of sunlight increases, which makes it possible for the fruits to fill and ripen faster.

• How to prune young trees of fruitful stone fruits?

Such garden representatives are able to bear fruit annually, if their fruit buds do not freeze in early spring. The peculiarity of such plants is the fact that even when they reach a great age, their fruits do not shrink, and, accordingly, the intensity of pruning differs, for example, from pears or apple trees. Annual planned pruning will help not to lose palatability and crop stability. It is recommended to carry it out in autumn or early spring.

• How to prune fruit trees in autumn?

After all the leaves fall from the tree, preparations for winter begin, one of the types of care is autumn pruning. Remove all broken, drying, dry, old, diseased and affected branches. A prerequisite for maintaining the health and vitality of the plant is to complete all work before the onset of frost. Any pruning should be carried out only with a high-quality and well-sharpened tool.

How to trim trees video