We are planting an orchard. Layout of a fruit and berry backyard garden Layout of garden plants on the site

Inexperienced summer residents, having planted their own garden, often complain that it does not have the abundance of fruits that they expected. And they begin to cut down trees, replacing them with cutting-edge seedlings. But in 90% of cases, people themselves are to blame for poor fruiting! Probably, the planting was done randomly, according to the principle “the more the better”, there was no garden layout, and here is the result - useless diseased trees.

Video: how to properly plan a summer cottage

Creating a garden, like creating a house, begins with design. Remember how a building project is chosen: they study the climate, the terrain, the availability of free space, family members, etc. And only taking into account all factors allows you to create the most comfortable and warm home.

Where does the garden begin?

The garden also begins with the study of the land on which the plants will live, and the climate, which directly affects the number of fruits. If the soil is too clayey or one sand, it is necessary to enrich it with black soil, peat and other useful components on which the nutrition of the roots will depend.

In the climate, the main factor that destroys fruiting are frosty winters, late spring frosts and excess moisture. Therefore, it is necessary to select an assortment of trees based on the climatic conditions of a particular area.

Choosing trees

Apple, pear, cherry plum and locally selected cherries are the most temperature-resistant trees. They adapt in almost any area and bear fruit, if not annually, then in a year.

Southern guests - apricot, peach - are afraid of wet springs, because early flowering at high humidity does not end with pollination. Pollen, along with moisture, settles to the ground. Dangerous and spring frosts, which just fall on the apricot blossom.

Sweet cherry absolutely does not tolerate nearby groundwater, and if reclamation is not carried out, then in a couple of years it will wither away. Raw spring also leaves its mark: the fruits crack and rot, not yet ripe.

Therefore, when choosing an assortment of trees, consider their future performance. Is it necessary to allocate precious meters on five to six acres for trees that can bear fruit once every six years (under optimal weather conditions!). Wouldn't it be better to go to the nearest supermarket and buy a couple of kilograms of apricots or peaches, which will not be very expensive in season, and plant only those plants in the garden that will provide seven vitamins in winter?

Making markup

To decide how many trees to plant and how to do it correctly, you need to draw on paper all the buildings available and planned on the site: a house, a bathhouse, a gazebo, a fence, electric poles with wires (if any) and old trees that you do not plan to uproot.

Garden on a small summer cottage

Why is this needed? Each object that rises above the ground casts a shadow that affects the development of nearby plants. Trees, bushes, garden plants will begin to stretch into the zone of constant illumination, spending their strength not on laying fruits, but on fighting for light. This will continue until the top is above the barrier. And since it is not always possible for trees to outgrow a house or a bathhouse, you will not expect fruits even after 10 years. Therefore, on your plan, mark the height of each building, as well as the cardinal points, with a number. Shadows will be located from the west and east of the objects, narrowing towards the south. Draw with strokes the places where there will be a shadow for more than half a day. This distance is equal to half the height of your buildings.

Everything that turned out to be shaded on paper is not suitable for the garden. There you can lay paths, arrange flower beds, break up a lawn, a pond, etc. In order for the trees to yield a crop, the shade zone is excluded from the plan of the future garden.

We plant plants

First decide how many trees and shrubs you plan to plant. If you don’t want to cut pears, apple trees, then you can “seat” a maximum of 7 trees per hundred square meters. Why not thicker? Because as they grow, they will begin to cast a shadow, interfering with each other in normal development.

If pruning is still planned, then the number of trunks can be increased to 15 (per hundred square meters). The most "advanced" summer residents should spend money on columnar forms of trees, which are planted at intervals of a meter.

Layout option for a rectangular plot with a garden and a vegetable garden

It should be noted!
Pruning reduces the number of fruits only in cherries and apricots, because they are located throughout the branch. They are not customary to cut. The rest of the trees are in dire need of pruning. The fruits from this will become larger, extra branches will not take light. It is best to keep the trees at a size of about 2 meters, forming a crown like a ball or a flat wall (if planting trees near the fence).

Trees are planted after four meters if it is planned to restrain their growth in the region of 2 m in the form of a ball, and after three meters if planted with a wall. The distance between shrubs (currants, gooseberries, etc.) is 1.5 m.

Rows should run from south to north. So the plants will cast less shade, and shade-tolerant crops can be planted between the rows.

Garden layout

The modern layout of the garden and vegetable garden has ceased to be strictly rectangular. And all because it is inconvenient to bend around right corners when moving with a wheelbarrow. Therefore, mark garden paths and garden beds in such a way that it is convenient to walk with inventory. Interesting examples of planning a garden and a vegetable garden can be peeped from other summer residents, on the Internet or specialized directories.

But there are general laws that should be followed so that a minimum of beds gives a maximum yield.

Those owners who did not suffer with the layout suffer with the cultivation of garden crops. Having thoroughly puffed once, planning a garden and a vegetable garden, you will save yourself from unnecessary work.

In order to grow a garden of fruit trees on your site, you must not only decide on the place and plants, but also take into account the basic nuances, such as planting patterns, hole sizes, planting and caring for seedlings, which will be discussed in this article.

Garden layout

When a place was chosen for planting seedlings, it is important to decide on a scheme for planting them. It is recommended to plant trees according to four schemes, which have their own peculiarities in the arrangement of plants, make it possible to simplify the process of caring for seedlings and get a bountiful harvest.

The most common planting pattern is quadratic: it allows you to create comfortable conditions for caring for the garden. According to this scheme, trees are planted in even rows. The distance between trees depends on their type and variety.

Important! It is also necessary to take into account the landing pattern in order to rationally use the space, therefore it is better to arrange trees in a square plot in a quadratic pattern.

If dwarf varieties have been selected, the optimum distance between rows will be 4 m, 2.5 m should be left between trees. Classic species that were grafted on a wild rootstock should be planted at least 3.5 m apart in rows - 5 m. Tall and vigorous species should be at a distance of 4 m, 6 m is kept between rows.

The quadratic planting pattern is suitable for trees that are not demanding on lighting, normally tolerate partial shade created by adjacent rows. Usually apple trees of different varieties are planted this way, some varieties of pears.

Chess

The chess scheme is very similar to the quadratic one, only in each square between four trees one more tree is planted. The scheme is denser, therefore it is suitable for planting medium-sized plants with a small crown. If the garden is located on a slope, then a chess pattern will be the best option for planting trees to reduce soil erosion by precipitation.
The checkerboard planting method allows the trees to receive the maximum amount of light, therefore it is suitable for light-loving plants - plums, apricots, peaches, as well as for apple and pear trees. The distance between the trees should be 4 m, between the rows it is better to leave 5 m.

Planting trees in a triangular pattern is characterized by a denser arrangement of plants with a large crown. According to the triangular scheme, all trees will be evenly standing, which will allow planting 15% more plants than according to the quadratic scheme.

To find out the optimal distance between plants, you must be guided by the rule of doubling the indicator of the maximum width of the crown of an adult tree. For example, if the crown width is 4 m, then there should be a distance of at least 8 m between plants on all sides.
Thanks to the triangular planting pattern, plants can receive the maximum amount of light. Cherry, apple, pear, plum, apricot, peach are suitable for planting with this scheme.

horizontal layout

The horizontal planting pattern is used in the case of trees located on a hilly area. Plants in this case are planted along horizontal lines, which makes it possible to reduce soil erosion processes and successfully grow seedlings on uneven areas. For fruit plantings, an elevated area is chosen, preferably in the south of the site. It is necessary to lay fruit trees in such a way that the maximum height of the trunks is directed to the north.
Thanks to this arrangement, the plants are provided with the greatest amount of light. The distance between them in this case should be at least 3 meters, between rows - at least 5. Any fruit trees are suitable for planting in a horizontal way.

garden planting

When the planting scheme has been determined, it is necessary to proceed with the selection and purchase of seedlings, which will then take root on the site.

Choice of fruit crops

In order for plants to bear fruit well, you need to be able to choose them correctly. Therefore, pay attention to the recommended growing region, soil and other conditions. There are special varieties that have been bred for each region: they easily tolerate frosty winters, different types of soil, and are less sensitive to adverse weather conditions. Consider the basic recommendations for planting trees that feel normal in mid-latitudes.

The most popular fruit plant in mid-latitudes is the apple tree. This culture is photophilous, so it is better to plant it in a well-lit area. An apple tree can grow on gray forest, soddy-podzolic soils, chernozems, which are distinguished by a light mechanical composition with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. The tree does not tolerate excess moisture, so plant it on small hills, in areas with deep groundwater - at least 1.5 m deep.

Did you know? Apple orchards in the world cover 5 million hectares, and every third fruit tree in the world is an apple tree.

It is recommended to plant a pear on the south side of the site, as areas with harsh winters often cause trees to freeze. The site must be selected well protected from the wind, which is especially important in winter. Pear grows well on moist soils, groundwater should be no closer than 1 m to the soil surface. The ideal soil for pear is loamy, sandy loam or slightly podzolic.
Cherries prefer warmer regions with more sunshine and warmth. The seedling is not recommended to be planted in the lowlands, as the cherry has poor winter hardiness and often freezes. The territory must be chosen well-ventilated - in this way many tree diseases can be avoided. As for the soil, the cherry prefers fertile soils with a light mechanical composition, characterized by high air permeability. Cherries are planted on light and medium loams, which allows you to get the maximum yield.

Plum also prefers well-lit areas, so it is necessary to plant seedlings on the south side of the site, on moist clay soil with a thick fertile layer and a neutral reaction. Plum also grows normally in the northern regions, but subject to the basic recommendations for planting and caring for the plant. Apricots grow well in mid-latitudes and subtropics in the most illuminated areas with plenty of sunlight and heat. Apricot trees need to be well protected from northerly winds: they can be placed on slopes and in places that are inaccessible to cold air.
The tree is best planted in light, well-drained soils. Peaches are planted in southern regions with a lot of heat and sunlight because they are not resistant to severe frosts that damage fruit buds. Peaches grow well on light loams with high air permeability and drainage, a prerequisite is high-quality wind protection.

How to choose and buy seedlings

It is important not only to choose the right place for planting seedlings, but also the planting material itself, in order to ensure good survival of the tree and obtain consistently high yields in the future.

Important! It is preferable to buy seedlings in nurseries, avoiding markets and other dubious places.

First of all, it is necessary to pay attention to the age of the tree: it is optimal to acquire planting material of two years of age, older trees have a low survival rate. Look carefully at the root system of seedlings - it should be healthy, contain, in addition to skeletal, numerous growing roots. Do not buy trees that have knots, thickenings, growths, nodules, nodules or other dubious formations on the roots.
The minimum number of skeletal roots for a two-year-old seedling is 3, it is preferable to choose seedlings that contain more than 3. Do not buy trees that have gross mechanical damage to the roots created during the process of improper digging. The height of a two-year-old seedling should be at least 1.5 meters; healthy trees contain three lateral branches that are evenly distributed along the trunk. The bark should be smooth, not have any scratches, cracks.

Did you know? There is an interesting method for determining the duration of storage of an excavated tree: it is necessary to pinch a tree branch between the thumb and forefinger, and if the seedling is fresh, then a slight coolness will come from the tree, and if the seedling is dry–you will feel warm.

Planting hole preparation

Depending on the type of fruit tree, the planting pit is prepared in different sizes and shapes, but for almost all trees, round pits with sheer walls are best suited, which can ensure the normal development of the root system. The size of a hole dug in cultivated soil with a deep fertile layer should be about 70 cm in diameter and 70 cm deep.

If a tree is planted in a territory being developed for the first time, the size of the pit will increase three times, since it will need to be filled with a sufficient amount of nutrient mixture, which in the future will serve as a reservoir of substances necessary for the normal development of a young seedling. Heavy clay and sandy soils involve digging a hole 1 m in diameter and 1 m deep. Experienced gardeners advise digging wider and shallower holes in clayey dense soil so that water does not stagnate in their lower layers - this will have a detrimental effect on plant roots.
If the planting will be done in the spring, then the pits must be dug in the autumn of the previous year, if the planting will be done in the fall, then the pit is dug in May-June. This is necessary so that the fertilizers that were applied to the soil are well mixed and ripened, that is, they form the necessary microbiological environment.

Tree planting rules

Depending on the type of fruit tree, there are rules for the size of the pit, planting time and other nuances that need to be considered:

1. apple trees they are often planted in the spring, if the seedling is not older than 2 years, so that over the summer the tree takes root, grows and survives wintering normally. Spring planting should take place in early May - late April, when the ground has already thawed and warmed up a little. If the seedling will be planted in the spring, then the pit can be prepared a week before planting. The size of the pit will depend on the soil: if it is quite fertile, then 60 cm in depth and diameter will be enough; if the soil is poor, then the depth should be at least 70 cm, and the diameter should be 80 cm. Seedlings of 3-4 years of age can be planted in autumn , since the already strong tree is not afraid of winter frosts. Planting is best done in early October, so that the roots have time to strengthen before winter. In autumn, it is recommended to plant young trees in the southern regions with fertile soil. A hole is dug the same size as in the case of planting in the spring, but it is prepared a month before planting.
   
2. pear can be planted both in spring and autumn. Spring planting (at the end of April) excludes the possibility of death of the tree from frost. It is better to prepare the pit in advance, in the fall of the previous year. During this time, the soil will shrink, and after planting the seedling, the root neck will not deepen much, which guarantees the normal survival of the plant. The hole should be about a meter wide and about 50 cm deep. If the soil is poor, then the hole is dug deeper and filled with several buckets of fertile soil. As in the case of an apple tree, a pear is planted in the southern regions in autumn, which allows the seedling to take root normally. In addition, a pear that was planted in the fall and survived the winter will be stronger and more resistant to future frosts. It is better to dig a hole in the spring, the size of the hole in depth is 50 cm, the diameter is 1 m, and planting is carried out in early October.
   
3. Apricot in the spring it is recommended to plant before the buds awaken on the seedling - in mid-April. The pit is prepared in autumn, its minimum size is 70 cm deep and 70 cm in diameter. The preparation of the pit for the autumn landing should be carried out in a month, or even two. A width of 1 m is required, and a depth of 80 cm. The optimal time for landing is the beginning of October.
   
4. Cherry often planted in spring (end of April), especially in the middle lane and northern regions, since over the summer the seedling grows, becomes stronger and normally tolerates wintering. The pit should be dug in advance, preferably in the fall, its depth should be at least 50 cm, diameter - 80 cm. In autumn, planting cherries is practiced only in the southern regions, sometimes in the middle lane. The optimal time for planting is the end of September, so that before the first frost hits, the tree gets stronger. The pit is prepared in the spring, the size is the same as in the case of landing in the spring.
   
5. Peach is a heat-loving plant, therefore, even in the southern regions, planting is carried out in the spring (end of April). The pit is prepared in advance, best of all in the fall, the size of the pit should be at least 70 cm deep and 1 m in diameter.
   
6. prefers spring planting in the middle lane and in the northern regions; in the southern regions, planting seedlings in the autumn is most often practiced. In spring, plums are planted at the end of April in a prepared hole. It is better to prepare the pit in the fall, add organic fertilizers to it, which will overheat over a sufficiently long period of time and create ideal conditions for a young seedling. The pit should be at least 60 cm deep and 70 cm wide, or more. In autumn, at the beginning of October, the plum is planted in a hole that was dug in the spring and fertilized with organic matter, the size of the hole is 60x70 cm.
   

Did you know?Unlike other fruit trees, plums cannot be found in nature in the wild. Plum was obtained by crossing blackthorn and cherry plum more than 2 thousand years ago.

How to care for newly planted trees

When the seedlings are planted in the soil, at first, special attention should be paid to regular watering. The frequency of watering depends on weather conditions and the regularity of rainfall. The minimum amount of water to be poured under one tree is 20 liters at a time. You need to water 1 time in 2-4 weeks. It is recommended to check the soil for moisture with a stick: if the surface of the soil has dried out by 20 cm, it's time to water the seedling.

The place around the seedling should be mulched - this is necessary in order to create a favorable environment for the root system, retain moisture in the summer, and slow down the growth of weed vegetation. Mulch is poured in a fairly thick layer (15 cm) at a distance of 1-2 meters from the trunk - sawdust, straw are used. The near-stem circle is regularly loosened and rid of weeds. It is especially important to loosen the soil after watering, when it is compacted from the water. Loosening is carried out to a depth of no more than 5 cm, so as not to damage the young roots.
Be sure a young tree for the winter should be insulated so that it normally endures frosts. Warming the trunk will also help protect the bark from rodent raids, which gnaw it in winter, which leads to the death of the seedling. The procedure is carried out in early November, tying the lower part of the trunk with fir branches at least 70 cm in height. Whitewashing of trees is carried out 2 times a year - in autumn and spring. Autumn whitewashing is done on a sunny, not rainy day at the end of September, and spring whitewashing should be carried out during a period of slight frosts, when the first insects have not yet appeared.

Important!Very young seedlings, which still have a greenish, unformed bark, cannot be whitewashed, as this can lead to disruption of metabolic processes.

For whitewashing, a mixture of slaked lime is prepared - 2 kg, copper sulfate - 0.2 g, water - 10 liters. The bark is pre-prepared, clearing diseased areas, moss. You can whiten using a coloring brush. Whitewashing is carried out from the bottom of the trunk, gradually rising to the skeletal branches. Skeletal branches are whitened 30 cm from the branching point.

How to decorate a new garden

To make a garden with fruit trees even more beautiful, you can add additional decor elements, plant some plants and lay paths, so let's look at each item in more detail.

How to lay paths in the garden

The easiest way is to equip the path from the backfill with the base. To do this, they dig a ditch 10 cm deep, lay it out with geotextiles, and reinforce the sides with curb tape. Pebbles or crushed stone are poured into the prepared area. A more complex option is the construction of a durable coating in the form of solid flood paths.

The base of such a coating is concrete, on which decorative elements in the form of natural stone, paving slabs are laid. The path is recommended to be laid on a slight elevation so that it is 5 cm higher than the rest of the soil level, which will save it from the effects of rainwater and soil sediment.

What plants can be planted in the garden

Flowers are the most popular garden decoration. They are able to complement other plants and create a complete picture. Popular annual flowers for planting in the garden include marigolds, asters, cosmos, zinnias, and petunias. Among perennials, bells, daisies, carnations, forget-me-nots, pansies can be distinguished. Was this article helpful?

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Planning your summer cottage is very interesting, because you can come up with a bunch of all sorts of interesting solutions.

In order to beautifully and efficiently ennoble the territory, you need to have some knowledge.

Our article will help you step by step to complete the basic work and decorate your site.

Where to begin?

Before starting work, you need to make a plan. Reflect your site on it, sketch its shape, display all the buildings and be sure to take into account the terrain, streams can flow in such areas.

Consider also the location of your territory, whether your house is located in a lowland or on a hill. If the cottage is built under a mountain and streams enter the site, then its arrangement will take a lot of time and effort.

The layout of the territory implies dividing it into zones, this is a residential area, a recreation area, a garden and outbuildings. For each building, you need to allocate a specific place and set the area.

The residential area, that is, your house, should take up about 25% of the space of the entire territory, the toilet, bathhouse and barn should fit in 15-17% of the area.

The largest place on the site, as always, is reserved for the garden, which means that you can plant and grow berries, fruit trees, your favorite flowers, build an artificial reservoir, build a gazebo, in general, make the territory beautiful and ennobled.

The first thing that is built on the site is, of course, a house. Everyone builds it in a different place, someone in the center, someone likes the house to occupy the first line, right after the gate.

A gazebo or terrace is built close to the house, closer to the garden, so that during the rest you can enjoy the fresh air and the aroma of trees. The playground is also placed closer to the gazebo, it can be at its level or behind it.

The toilet, bathhouse and shed should take place closer to the fence. In this case, they will remain invisible on the site and will not take up space.

There is no single type of landscaping for a summer cottage, since everyone has different territories both in size and shape. The standard lot type is a square or rectangle.

On their territory, summer residents are very fond of creating rockeries from stones, plants and a reservoir.

Site planning is a creative and interesting process, but in order to make the cottage cozy and beautiful, it will not be out of place to look at some of the work of landscape designers.

We draw a diagram

After you have decided on the place of buildings on the territory, mark them on paper and sketch them. So, you will visually facilitate your work, and you will surely imagine what to place where, namely:

• Where the house will stand, from which side of the site the entrance will be.
• Place for outbuildings.
• Where will you put the gazebo and playground.
• Track direction.
• Place for flower beds and a pond.
• Communications.

Strictly observing the sequence of buildings, the main place on the site belongs to the house, then we build a garage, sheds, a bathhouse and a toilet.

Lastly, we choose a place for a gazebo, a barbecue area, a summer shower, etc. The garden and vegetable garden is given enough space, depending on what you plan to plant there.

Layout of the site depending on the size

Depending on how many acres the suburban area occupies, the location of the buildings should be designed.

If the plot is not more than 6 acres, then with proper zoning of the territory, you can build everything you need. A house on such a site will turn out no more than 20-25 square meters. m., parking - about 7 sq. m., garden - no more than 100 sq. m.

If your plot is large, from 12 to 15 acres, then this has a serious project on which you will have to work properly.

According to the standard plan, everything will be possible to build here, and even large objects, for example, the house here will be just huge, with a summer terrace and a spacious parking lot.

When developing a development plan for your site on your own, consider all the nuances regarding the construction and placement of summer cottages. Use a clear work plan and follow the advice of experienced craftsmen.

Photo of a successful layout of a summer cottage

Nowadays, an increasing number of people are resorting to growing vegetables in and on summer cottages.

After all, only if we have received crops from our beds, we can have no doubts about the quality of the cultivated greens, root and vegetable crops.

And the cost of purchased vegetables is quite high, especially in winter.

The layout of the orchard begins with preparatory work.

In order for all vegetation to grow comfortably, it must be taken into account that the most successful places are suitable for it according to its preferences for soil and lighting. Then you need to analyze in detail the entire site, this will help to rationally place the objects of landscape style, it includes both completed constructions and plantings, as well as future ones.

Drawing in your mind a picture of your future site, you need to create a draft project and not miss a single subtlety. It is recommended to immediately measure the dimensions of the site, which is planned for fruit vegetation, estimating 4 square meters per tree. sites, and this is minimal.

It is better to choose a flat or slightly sloping area for the garden. You should choose a place for the garden, located from the south, and in the absence of such an opportunity, you need to choose another, most importantly sunny and not particularly shaded. It is required to analyze the land, for trees in comfortable fertile soils with normal acidity (chernozem or sandy loam).

You should also take into account the depth of groundwater, because this can adversely affect the root system of vegetation. You can make a list of the names of crops that you would like to grow in the yard, study in detail the conditions for their growth to find out if they get along. Plan the number of ridges, think about whether you need someone's help or is it feasible to cope with the landings on your own.

Distribution of garden plantings into separate zones

On a blank sheet of your gardener's diary, you need to sketch out the assumption of the garden. It can be front, side or back relative to the house, only trees and shrubs should grow from the north side to the south for better lighting and mean three parts.

The location of the zones should go one after the other or be divided into three divided territories, which will be located at different ends of the common area of ​​the site:

• First. Compatibility of fruit trees and shrubs in this variation of zoning. In the first zone we lay a garden, its vegetation will not obscure the representatives of the second part, and in the mornings it will be endowed with its share of the sun.
• In the next zone, it is more successful to place berries, their height does not exceed 1.5 meters. The shadow emanating from the bushes in the morning will not interfere with the vegetation of the third part.
• In the part of the third order, we plant fruit. From the previous one, it should be in the interval of about 3 m, so that there is no threat of their shading.

In the diary, you can record the names and the main nature of the fruit and berry vegetation, and on a schematic plan indicate their location in the garden with numbers.

Berry layout

When breaking up a berry bush on a plot, one should schematically take into account the characteristics of the vegetation. Blackcurrant grows normally surrounded by the rest of the vegetation, and sea buckthorn and viburnum do not get along with their neighbors, therefore, they are planted separately. Sea buckthorn bushes can perfectly replace a green fence, and viburnum, hawthorn will decorate the landscape in a leisure corner.

Some gardeners prefer to place berries around the perimeter of the site. In this form, part of the territory is freed up for other crops or for leisure areas, sports activities, etc. This layout is suitable if the land is not fenced with a green fence, or the bushes with berries themselves will enclose the site with their location.

The thickening of the berry plantings is especially important. After all, it acts as a regulator of natural origin for the optimal development of vegetation, its strength to diseases and the formation of the crop:

• Raspberries are seated in tight rows, at intervals of half a meter from each other and at intervals of a meter and a half in rows. Raspberry vegetation, growing, fills the aisles, the former aisles are freed from overgrowth and serve as non-permanent paths. They change the places of crops by cutting off the shoots, returning, after three years, to the former site of growth.
• Yoshta and black currant are planted at intervals of at least one and a half meters, and red at meter intervals. Large bushy vegetation will shade each other, the spines of some varietal gooseberry species will completely block access to the fruits.

In the case of using honeysuckle and shadberry, like a green fence, the bushes are planted at intervals of a meter and a half, it can be even thicker, and in the berry bush at intervals of up to 2 meters.

The number of one or another berry vegetation is especially important. It is good to think ahead and schematically plan the number of each species and varietal type so that it is possible to please the family with fresh harvests of berries in the summer and to close jars of fragrant jam for winter storage.

A well-planned berry plot grows normally and bears fruit for about 11 years, and in the future it should be gradually rejuvenated or the plants transferred to another territory. Pruning fruit trees and crown formation is also an important activity. To do this, you need to know the characteristics of varietal species of fruit trees.

Setting up an orchard

On the next page of the diary, we draw a diagram with the placement of fruit crops, allocating conditionally 4 sq. m. for each copy. from the common area. No need to thicken the landings. Plants will grow and become a hindrance to each other.

Let the landing pits be located in a row at intervals of four meters. We pay attention to the types of cultivated vegetation. Currently, a large number of farms are switching to the formats of apple and pear trees in the form of columns - the fundamental horticultural vegetation in the household plot.

In terms of dimensions, these species are smaller, and yields are equal to high cultivated vegetation. For these types and care is easier, they are resistant to ailments, the most resistant in cold weather. Early, middle and late varietal species should grow in order to be able to enjoy fresh delicacies all season and so that it is possible to process and store grown fruits for the winter.

Of the garden cultivated vegetation, two sweet cherries (early and late) are quite enough. Instead of its average varietal species, it is more successful to plant two cherries.

They give out crops after early cherries. Let there be one quince (later it will be possible to graft a different species or other varietal types on it), two or three plums, including marabelle. A couple of apricots are enough, which are frost-resistant varietal species. Three apple trees, in the future, through grafting, they can be turned into 6 or 8 varietal species of different ripening periods. It is necessary to save a place for new representatives of vegetation.

In order for the garden to please with an abundance of harvests for a long period and not to fall ill, it is necessary to use zoned varietal species. They are more resistant to diseases, harmful insects, changes in weather conditions, the fruiting period is longer.

You can get acquainted with varietal species and subspecies for the region and their characters in the special literature. When purchasing seedlings, you should contact the experts. A garden filled with low-quality vegetation will add work and trouble, but will not please you with the quality and quantity of fruits.

How to build beautiful ridges and correctly place them in your garden

Formats

They can be all kinds, only the dimensions of the site can limit their size. Ridges can be built straight or of various geometries, or curly. You can provide a fence, or you can do without it, in height they can be low or high.

High ridges are now more in demand. Of these, the most successful are those that reach a height of 40 cm. Reasons:

• These beds are warm. On the lower layer of materials that are rapidly composted (branches, rags, paper, cardboard), a layer of materials is laid, they are composted more slowly (leaves, weeds, paper waste). Then it should be spilled with water, and covered with soil. In the process of decay, the ridge will begin to emit heat, and the crops will ripen more actively.
• The sun's rays warm the soil more actively. But irrigation also needs to be done more often.
• If you want to protect your upcoming crop from moles and mice, you should place a plaster mesh under the lower layer.
• Such ridges do not need to be dug. After all, they are not dug, but made.
• It is possible to harvest twice a season. You can also have time to grow, for example, lettuce, before planting the main crop.

Dimension

As usual, the ridges are from half a meter to a meter wide. These dimensions are successful in processing, because care is simplified. And the length can not be limited. According to the Mitlider method, it is proposed to build completely narrow ridges of 45 cm, and the passages, on the contrary, are wider at 90 cm, while the length of the ridges should not exceed 9 meters. Gardeners using this technique speak positively about it.

The vegetation is well ventilated. With its growth, accessibility to it remains especially comfortable, and the main thing is that it receives more solar energy, and even in the cloudy summer season, the fruits ripen perfectly. Yields in this variation increase.

In the ridges arranged by this species, you can plant a variety of crops: tomato, cucumber, pepper, etc.

Location

As usual, the ridges are arranged from the south side in a northerly direction. This allows all vegetation to warm up evenly. And in the morning and evening, when the sun's rays illuminate the ridges from the sidewalls, they do not particularly shade each other. It happens that the site is endowed with a slope. How to properly arrange the ridges in this version?

It is more successful to place them across the slope, then the moisture will be evenly distributed. It happens that the site is completely uneven, in which case it is advised to place the ridges on a slope on the south side, and garden vegetation from the north direction.

layout

For her literacy, you need to consider:

• The yield of one or another varietal type of vegetables per square meter. After all, then it will be possible to calculate the required landing site for each species.
• Vegetation compatibility. Without it, it will not be possible to fulfill the plan qualitatively.
• If the site is too sloping, it is necessary to build terraces and place ridge boxes on them.
• Plan the planting of crops so that the taller vegetation is on the north side of the site. So lower species will not grow in shading.

Common missteps of a novice gardener:

• Overly thickened plantings: it is necessary to provide seedlings with thinning in due time, because if the vegetation is crowded, this will not favorably affect its growth, yields and resistance to harmful insects and ailments. Gaps between rows and vegetation in a row (planting patterns) are provided for each of the crops separately.
• The lack of work on the elimination of weeds in time will lead to a decline in the yield and its quality. Because weed grass, already resistant and actively growing, deprives a significant proportion of the nutritional components of the crop.
• Vegetable ridges in shading: negatively affects the quality of vegetation, some crops accumulate nitrate-containing components, growing in shading. Let the light on the ridges in the garden be present for at least 6 hours daily. In particular, vegetation uses the light of the afternoon. So, it’s lucky if at this time they are not in the shade.
• Overdose of dressings: overfed vegetable vegetation is much more prone to ailments. Excessive feeding with nitrogenous additives leads to fattening of the culture, as a result, fruiting suffers and nitrates accumulate in vegetables. It is imperative that strict adherence to the terms and norms of adding dressings is necessary, taking into account the preferences of the culture.
• Sowing seeds too early: sowing seeds in unheated soil destroys germination. Each vegetation has its own periods, this also applies to planting. If the spring period turned out to be cool and wet, it is better to postpone sowing for a week and expect friendly shoots a little later.
• Illiterate selection of vegetable representatives: warm-loving, capricious vegetables (

A rare owner of a private house prefers not to plant fruit trees on his plot. Everyone usually wants to have a fruit garden - in spring, trees delight with wonderful flowering and aroma, and fruits and berries from your own garden always seem much tastier than those bought in a store or market, besides, you know that these are environmentally friendly products. In the art of Feng Shui, the image of a blooming orchard is a symbol of abundance and prosperity. The layout of the garden is a responsible matter, their growth and ability to bear fruit will depend on how correctly you plant the trees, so this task must be treated with great attention.

If you want to grow vegetables in your garden as well, the layout of the garden and vegetable garden must be considered together. It is better to take a place for beds at the southern border, from north to south, this is better for crops growing in the middle lane. Some gardeners recommend placing beds from east to west. Behind the vegetable and strawberry (strawberry) beds are fruit bushes - currants, gooseberries. Trees are planted behind the bushes, a light shade from the trees will not harm the berry bushes, and the vegetable beds should be in the sun.

An example of the design of vegetable beds - they do not have to be square or rectangular, the original beds resemble flower beds

What do you need to know before planning?

Before you start planning your garden, you need to take into account the following important factors:

• What is the size of the area can be allocated for an orchard. For trees with spreading crowns, a distance of 4 sq.m.
• terrain. For a fruit garden, flat terrain or a gentle slope would be ideal, cold air is retained in the hollows, excessive moisture, these areas are unfavorable for fruit trees.
• Soil analysis of your site. Fruit crops have a powerful root system, the soil must be fertile to provide it with good nutrition. Stony, clay, sandy soil is not suitable for a garden. The proximity of groundwater negatively affects the growth of trees.
• Presence of heat and light. For most fruit trees, it is important that there is plenty of light and heat; in the shade, they grow and bear fruit much worse. It should be said about the area with a constant strong wind - the wind interferes with normal pollination, dries the soil, often damages crops and breaks tree branches. A high fence or green spaces can partially protect against winds.

Planning starts with a blueprint on paper. If there is already a house on the site, you need to start planning from it. A map of the site, the contours of the house and other buildings, as well as places where trees already grow, are applied to the paper on a scale.

This site is protected from the wind by trees planted around it, which have already grown enough to provide protection.

If the site is not built up yet, a place for building a house is applied to the scheme. The layout of the garden on the site suggests the presence of a front garden. The house should face the street, in front of it there is a strip of land for the front garden. Its size depends on the area of ​​​​the site - for someone it is only a meter, for someone it is 6-8 meters. In a small front garden, flowers, raspberries and berry bushes are usually planted, in a large one - ornamental trees, flowers or several fruit trees at the discretion of the owners.

For large fruit trees - apple trees, pears, take a place in the northeast side of the site, between them and fruit and berry bushes - a place for smaller trees - cherries, plums.

An example of the layout of the garden and vegetable garden - the site is divided into two parts. In the first - a house surrounded by a front garden and beds with vegetables, the second half - an orchard with trees planted in rows

In general, it will be convenient to draw a site plan, put on it all the existing buildings, the proposed location of the garden and vegetable garden. On the site you need to mark the holes for planting trees. Try to plant trees at a distance so that as they grow, they do not obscure each other. Heap-growing bushes and trees in the garden do not grow well, in addition, conditions are created for diseases of horticultural crops. In fruit trees, the root system is powerful, it should develop freely.

Advice. If your site is overgrown with wild shrubs, there are stumps on it that need to be uprooted, do the necessary work and burn the wood residues. Collect the ashes in a dry place, it will come in handy when creating fertile beds.

Usually, the layout of an orchard involves planting trees in such a way that they do not obscure the neighbors' plots, but it is not uncommon for a tree to grow near the fence itself, providing both owners and neighbors with fruits, while no one has any complaints.

Today it is fashionable to give the beds an original shape, for example, a pizza garden. The highlight is that from the round beds in the center, the rest diverge like slices of pizza, forming a circle.

At the borders of the site, raspberries, blackberries or berry bushes are usually planted, which also bear fruit well in shading.

Landscaping and regular planning

Below we give examples of garden planning for lovers of order and clarity of forms and for those who like it when plants in an orchard are also planted according to the scheme, but give the impression of natural areas.

Landscaping involves the arrangement of trees and other crops in a free order, close to natural. In such a garden, in addition to fruit crops, decorative ones are also widely used.

An example of a free-plan garden - vegetable beds on the left and top, fruit trees planted in groups in the center and on the right

With regular planning, trees and shrubs, as well as vegetables in the garden, are planted in strict rows at the same distance. The landing pattern also has a strict geometric shape - a square for sections whose length and width are almost equal, and a rectangle for sections whose length is much greater than the width.

An example of a regular layout of a garden with a vegetable garden is a clear geometry, the site is divided into regular squares, rectangles, plants are planted in rows

Where are the best crops to plant?

These are trees and shrubs that grow well and bear fruit in your latitudes. For the middle lane, these are pears, apple trees (it is advisable to plant several trees of different varieties), different varieties of plums and cherry plums, cherries. Cherries and apricots will ripen in warm latitudes. Berry bushes - all varieties of currants, gooseberries, blackberries, raspberries. With a small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe plot, shrubs are conveniently located around the perimeter.

If you plant several apple trees, among which there will be summer, autumn and winter apple trees, the fruits will delight you at different times of the year

An example of an interesting layout of the garden - paths diverge from the square of slabs in the center, between which there are beds, different crops are planted on each of the beds. Get comfortable with any of them.

On vegetable beds nearby, you need to plant crops that grow well in close proximity to each other:

• cabbage, cucumbers, peas;
• white cabbage, dill, potatoes, onions, lettuce, celery;
• tomatoes, peas, carrots;
• horseradish, potatoes, beans, onions, cabbage.

When you draw a diagram, decide which plants to plant and in what quantity, you can start marking the garden on the ground, buy seedlings and prepare the soil.