How to grow a perennial delphinium from seeds. Delphinium perennial: cultivation, planting and care Planting a delphinium in the ground with seedlings

Delphinium is a herbaceous plant of the buttercup family. It has more than 400 species, among which there are annual and perennial. The latter are distinguished by a more powerful root structure, endurance, and unpretentiousness. The plant is also known under other names: larkspur, spur, sokiriki, hare ears.

Features of growing a perennial delphinium

Delphinium is a perennial native to Transcaucasia and Asia Minor. Depending on the species, it grows in height from 40 cm to 2 m. In garden plots, it is a decoration of the landscape, some varieties are grown in order to obtain therapeutic agents. The plant is distinguished by a variety of types of flowers, from simple to double. The color palette is also wide.

Suitable areas for cultivation are sheltered from the wind. In all species of this plant, the weakest point is the lower part of the stem at the root. Flowers can break from strong gusts of wind.

Delphinium is widely used in landscape design

Delphinium grows well on any soil, but prefers breathable. If there is clay soil on the site, it will have to be loosened regularly. The plant does not tolerate excess moisture, so water it regularly, but moderately. During the period of tying the buds, the amount of water is slightly increased. At the same time, potash or phosphate fertilizers are applied.

There is one peculiarity in growing delphinium: if it is in the same place for more than 4 years, the risk of plant damage by various diseases increases. For this reason, it is recommended to replant flowers every 4-5 years. But many gardeners ignore these tips and successfully grow them in the same place for decades.

What climate is this plant suitable for?

Delphinium perennial is characterized by good winter hardiness, able to tolerate frosts down to -40 ° C. Recommended for cultivation in the southern and northern regions. All varieties may re-bloom. To do this, cut the flower stalks after the completion of the first. In central Russia, the first flowering period runs from mid-June to early August, and a second one is possible in the fall.

When growing in regions with a harsh climate, it is not frost and freezing of the soil that should be most feared, but thaws. The fact is that the root system of this plant is located close to the surface of the earth. During the period of the appearance of puddles and thawed patches, it can melt. For this reason, in the Far Eastern and Northern regions, the delphinium is best planted on higher ground.

Delphiniums feel good in different regions of the country

Despite the fact that the Ural region is considered a zone of risky farming, delphiniums grow well here and bloom twice a year. But best of all they feel in the south. In these conditions, it is most important to choose a place to plant a plant. From the scorching rays of the sun, it can wither, so you need a site that is in the shade during the hottest part of the day.

Popular varieties with photos

In Russia, hybrids based on Delphinium elatum and Delphinium grandiflorum are mainly grown. All of them are unpretentious and reproduce well by seeds. The trading network presents numerous varieties of delphiniums of various colors. The most beautiful plants with large double flowers.

Varieties are distributed according to the height of peduncles, their color, shape and size of flowers. In this regard, there are:

• high hybrids - 170–250 cm (more than 200 varieties);
• medium - 130–170 cm;
• dwarf - up to 130 cm.

The most beautiful Pacific hybrids, including several dozen varieties. These plants are distinguished by high (from 180 cm) growth, chic pyramidal inflorescences, large flowers. In this group of plants, several are distinguished, named after the knights of Camelot.

Another large group is Mafia hybrids. They were bred by a breeder living in the village of Mafino near Moscow. Popular delphinium varieties with photos during the flowering period:

• Black Knight (Black Knight). A plant with large double and semi-double flowers of rich purple color. It blooms for a long time and abundantly, prefers well-lit places and fertile soils.

Black Knight variety blooms long and profusely

• Double Innocence (Delphinium New Zealand). A spectacular, beautiful flower with an erect stem reaching a height of 130 cm. During the flowering period it is densely strewn with white double flowers up to 4 cm in diameter. Sufficiently winter-hardy: it can tolerate frosts down to -35 ° C.

New Zealand delphinium flower has 21 petals

• Atlantis. One of the most reliable and unpretentious varieties. Impressive with its large bright blue flowers. Srednerosly, up to 1 m high, inflorescences are long, pyramidal. The leaves are bright juicy green.

The unpretentious delphinium Atlantis with a blue inflorescence is one of the reliable varieties

• King Arthur. Srednerosly plant, reaching a height of 150 cm. The flowers are blue with a white center. Winter-hardy, unpretentious, prefers well-drained, loose soils.

Medium-sized delphinium King Arthur is unpretentious and easily tolerates frost

• Belladonna (Delphinium belladonna). The only variety whose flowers hang from the peduncle. As unpretentious and effective as all other species of this plant.

Variety Belladonna stands out among the rest with hanging flowers

Planting and breeding methods

There are three ways to sow a perennial delphinium for seedlings:

• seeds;
• cuttings;
• dividing the bush.

All of them are quite productive and have long been used in horticultural practice.

Growing perennial delphinium from seeds

The most troublesome of the three propagation methods is by seed. In order to get delphinium seedlings by the beginning of the warm season, seed cultivation is carried out from late February to early March. The method is good in that it can be used to grow any variety of delphinium, the seeds of which are on sale or from breeders.

Planting seeds for seedlings of the delphinium is carried out in late February - early March

There are two landing methods:

• for seedlings at home;
• into open ground.

The soil should be light, slightly acidic, loose. Mandatory to be disinfected. You can do this in two ways:

1. Ignite for several minutes in the microwave at maximum power;
2. Pour with a solution of fungicide or potassium permanganate.
3. Before planting, the seeds are stored in a cool place. They are laid in the ground with a wet toothpick, at a distance of 15–20 mm from each other.
4. Lightly sprinkle with soil and spray with water from a garden sprayer. Seedlings appear 10-12 days after planting.
5. When the sprouts reach a height of 3–4 cm, a dive is performed. The same applies if seeds are planted in open ground.

Attention! There is a peculiarity in seed propagation: if they are sown in open ground before winter, hybrids may not repeat the signs of mother plants. This is due to the fact that the alternation of periods of freezing and thawing provokes changes in the cells of an artificially bred plant.

Reproduction by cuttings

The delphinium stalk is obtained in the following way:

1. at the beginning of the growing season, when the shoots of the plant grow by 10–12 cm, part of the root is exposed;
2. cut off the shoot with a sharp knife so as to capture the root system.
3. The resulting cutting is planted in a shaded place to a depth of 2-3 cm, watered and covered with a film. After 15-20 days, the flower will root. After that, it can be planted in a permanent place of growth.

Before landing in a permanent place, the delphinium stalk must be rooted

The division of the bush

The simplest and most effective way to propagate a perennial delphinium is to divide the bush. The process consists of several stages:

1. dig up a plant;
2. gently clean the roots from the ground;
3. cut with a sharp knife into pieces, each of which must contain a shoot or bud;
4. planted in the ground.

garden care

Caring for a long-term delphinium is simple and consists in performing several actions.

• The soil at the roots is periodically loosened.
• In the autumn, after flowering is completed and the leaves dry, the stem is cut with a pruner so that a “stump” 20–30 cm high remains above the soil surface. After that, it is sprinkled with earth from all sides and spud.

If there is a lot of snow in the region, the stem cavity is covered with clay. This prevents the penetration of moisture to the root and its further decay.

Tall varieties need a garter. For this purpose, paper tapes are used, since fishing line or twine can cut into the thin stems of the plant and injure them. To give greater stability, two garters are made: the first at a height of 40–50 cm, the second - upon reaching a height of 100–120 cm.

In the spring, the emerging shoots are thinned out. This gives the plant room to grow. If the variety is large-flowered, at least three shoots are left; for small-flowered ones, 7–10 shoots must be left.

Delphiniums respond well to feeding. It is held 3 times per season:

1. in the middle of spring, organic matter is introduced;
2. after 30-40 days - mineral fertilizers ("Kemira Universal");
3. during the formation of buds, they are sprayed with a solution of superphosphate at the rate of 50 g per 1 liter.

Advice! In order to stimulate more lush flowering, the plants are watered several times with a solution of boric acid.

For the prevention of diseases during the budding period, spraying with any available fungicide is carried out.

Possible Growing Problems

Delphinium perennial does not require much attention. When the above rules of care are followed, the plant develops well and blooms.

Growing a delphinium is not burdensome

But there is still one problem in growing this plant. It lies in the insufficiently good germination of seeds, which most gardeners complain about. In addition, conflicting information is often given in the instructions of the seed manufacturers.

If there is no skill in growing a delphinium, you can focus on the advice of experienced gardeners.

1. Land for seed germination take lean, ordinary garden. Mix it in equal parts with clean sand. It is important that there is no peat in the soil, which will provoke the development of mold.
2. After the seeds are laid out on the ground, sprinkle them with a thin layer of sand. Do not bury in the soil.
3. Snow is prepared in the refrigerator and sprinkled with a container of seeds. When thawed, moisture will carry the seeds to the desired depth. The container is covered with plastic wrap and kept under such conditions for 2-3 days.
4. Before germination, place the container on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. With the advent of sprouts, they are transferred to a warm, well-lit place.

Delphinium can be grown without much hassle in any climatic zone of Russia. Subject to the rules for caring for these plants, they will delight with their flowering twice a year.

When choosing plants for designer planting in the flower beds of summer cottages and parks, gardeners often stop at the delphinium.

It is distinguished by unpretentiousness in care and external beauty, which will allow you to grow a delphinium in a variety of conditions.

A bit of history

Delphinium (Delphinium) is also called spur and larkspur. The latter is often found in colloquial speech. There are several versions of the appearance of such a name.

Some scientists talk about the similarity of an unblown flower with a dolphin, others note that in ancient Greece a huge number of delphiniums were found in the city of Delphi, where the temple of Apollo Delphic was located and the Delphic oracle lived. In Russia, the word "spur" comes from the similarity of the outgrowth appendage with a cavalry spur.

The name larkspur is a reference to the meaning of the plant in folk medicine: the tincture of the flower was used to heal wounds.

Interesting: in Russia, the name "delphinium" is usually used in fiction.

In total, about 450 species are known, of which 100 species grow in Russia, among them the most popular are high perennial larkspur and annual field larkspur. The flower is common in northern countries and the African tropics, many species grow in Asia, mainly in China.

It should be noted that the specified number of species is not accurate: due to the huge number of varieties and the difficulty in identifying common features, some authors identify up to 1.2 thousand flower varieties. Other species are so few that they are in danger of extinction.

general information

Delphinium belongs to the Buttercup family. Its dimensions are very diverse: some dwarf varieties do not grow more than 10 cm, other giant species reach 2.5-3 meters.

The stem is hollow inside, the leaves are large, dark green, sharp at the ends. Flowers consist of 5 petals, one of which has the spike indicated above. Petals can grow in one or more rows, they are simple and terry.

The inflorescence itself consists of several dozen flowers: in primitive species, the number does not exceed 15 pieces, in more developed ones it reaches 80 pieces. In this case, the length of the inflorescence can reach a meter in length. Thanks to heavy brushes, in which small flowers are collected, the spur looks very beautiful and noble.

The color diversity of the delphinium is especially worth noting: despite the fact that blue and blue shades are most often found in nature, purple, lilac, white and even pink, red or black flowers can be seen in gardens. You can see the variety of species and choose the most suitable option in the photo.

In the wild, the delphinium mainly grows in the mountains and easily tolerates low, up to -20 degrees, temperatures. Other varieties, on the contrary, are heat-resistant and not demanding on dryness. Cultivars have all the advantages of wild "brothers".

Application

Basically, the spur is used in ornamental horticulture: the Royal Horticultural Society has been breeding it since the 17th century. Also, some varieties were used as dyes.

Some species have also proven themselves in medicine as painkillers and antimicrobials. They are also used as relaxants to increase muscle tone in nervous diseases: Parkinson's disease, traumatic paralysis, multiple sclerosis.

It is important to know: it must be remembered that the spur is a poisonous plant, which in no case should be used independently.

In folk recipes, the flower is used for female, genitourinary or venereal diseases, digestive diseases, enlarged liver, jaundice, inflammation or pus of the eye.

Popular types

Delphinium Leroy

There are annual and perennial varieties, but most gardeners prefer the latter, as they do not require an annual "update". Among the most popular, it is worth noting spurs with unusual flower colors:

1. Delphinium "Leroy". Heat-loving plant, characterized by a sweet smell and a greenish tint.
2. Delphinium "Astolat". It has large double and semi-double pink flowers.
3. Terry delphinium. Blooms from late spring to late summer. Through selection, you can find black, red and yellow shades.
4. Kashmir delphinium. It has purple flowers with a black center.
5. Delphinium "King Arthur". The owner of dark blue flowers with a white center.
6. labial delphinium. A plant of an unusual color: its petals have blue-green and gray shades.
7. Delphinium "Bruno". It has blue-violet petals, but does not tolerate frost well.
8. Holostem delphinium. Low, no more than a meter in height, a variety with red-orange flowers. It is extremely thermophilic, it is best to grow it in pots and clean it for the winter in a warm place.

It is also worth noting the varieties "Waltz", "Ocean" and "Butterfly", the hybrid "Belladonna", the giant "Summer Sky", "Blue Lace", snow-white "Galahad", light pink "Caroline". Their descriptions are easy to find on garden center websites.

No less popular undersized varieties:

1. "Naples". Plant height up to 1.2 meters with large purple flowers;
2. blue delphinium. Low, up to a meter, a plant that is best grown in pots. The flowers are deep blue with a black center. Extremely thermophilic, for the winter it is necessary to clean it;
3. rare delphinium. It grows up to 75 cm, blooms in the second half of summer, the flowers are quite rare;
4. Short-spured delphinium. This is a frost-resistant plant up to 30 cm high. Distributed in Alaska, the Arctic and northern Russia.

It is worth noting the pyramidal delphinium - due to its unpretentiousness, the variety is extremely popular and widespread. It endures up to 20 degrees of frost, and its roots are able to take root even on poor stony soils. Flowering occurs from July to September. Delphinium "Sweethearts" is no less in demand, as well as all New Zealand varieties with excellent health and unpretentiousness.

Landing

Despite the unpretentiousness, it is best to plant a flower in neutral, fertile soil. Acidic lands will not work: if the selected area is such, it is worth adding a little lime or dolomite flour in the fall to remove excess acid. It will also be useful to make manure or.

Spurs love warmth and sunlight, but the wind can be a problem: because of the thin leaves, the plant can break down with strong gusts. You will need to tie the stems or plant them next to the shelter.

Note: trees and bushes will not work as a shelter - they will pull all the nutrients, which will negatively affect the growth of the delphinium.

In autumn, it is necessary to dig up the soil and fertilize it with mineral fertilizers. Planting sprouts must be done in April-May, when the frosts have passed. If the choice fell on frost-resistant varieties, you can plant them earlier. Usually, sprouts with several leaves are planted in open ground.

Consider the procedure for planting a delphinium in open ground:

1. It is necessary to dig a hole in the ground with a depth and diameter of about 40-50 cm, the distance between the holes should be about 60-70 cm;
2. You need to mix half a bucket of compost, 2 tablespoons of complex fertilizer and a glass of ash with the ground and fill the hole completely;
3. In the resulting land, you need to make a small depression, plant a seedling in it and tamp the ground, then water it.

If the seedlings are small and weak, it is necessary to cover them with the cut tops of plastic bottles with the caps removed. This will help create a greenhouse effect. After 2-3 weeks, when the delphinium takes root and begins to grow, the bottles are removed.

Basic care

Despite the fact that the spur is not particularly whimsical, it requires certain conditions to be met that will allow you to get an excellent result:

1. Delphinium requires regular but moderate watering 1-2 times a week, 2-3 buckets of water per adult plant. If the summer is rainy, watering can be completely excluded.
2. Delphinium will require 3 feedings over the summer. At the end of April, for example, a solution of a bucket of cow dung in 10 buckets of water is needed - this will help enhance growth and development. In early summer, when buds begin to appear, potash and phosphorus fertilizers with a small amount of nitrogen will be required. The last time top dressing is necessary after the fall of the flowers. It is necessary to use potash and phosphorus mixtures without nitrogen content - this will help to achieve seed maturation.
3. It is necessary to thin out the delphinium when the plant reaches 20-30 cm. 3-5 stems are left on one bush, removing the rest. This will form a beautiful large-flowered hat. The excess is cut off near the ground itself.

Gardener's advice: timely thinning will not only improve the appearance of the bush, but also help to remove infected or weak areas.

1. In order for the delphinium not to break, it is necessary to put a support for it: it is installed when the flower reaches half a meter in height. It is tied up after reaching a height of one meter. The height of the support should exceed the flower itself and be no shorter than 1.8-2 meters.
2. If seeds are not needed, after the end of flowering, it is worth cutting the stems at a height of about 30 cm, without waiting for the seeds to form. After pruning, so that water does not get into the hollow stems, the cut is smeared with clay. You can also leave the delphinium without pruning and just collect the seeds.

Wintering

The spur is a frost-resistant plant and easily survives mild winters without much tricks.

Before the start of the autumn rains, the cut should be smeared with clay so that the water that gets in does not cause rot.

For the winter, the beds should be covered with spruce branches or straw. It is much more dangerous for a plant to change temperatures and melt snow, as rhizomes may suffer.

To avoid this, it is worth adding sand or broken stone before planting in the pit: this will help to remove excess moisture.

Low plants planted in pots, it is enough to bring them into a cool, snow-protected room.

reproduction

You can grow it in different ways:

1. With the help of seeds. After harvest, the seeds retain excellent germination properties for 4 years, but after that they are practically useless. Before planting, it is necessary to place the seeds in the cold for several weeks, for example, in the vegetable section of the refrigerator - this will help to harden the seeds. Then I plant them in a container using standard peat soil. Delphinium seeds do not need much deepening, it is enough to lightly sprinkle them with earth and pour them from a spray bottle. Glass must be placed on the container to create the effect of a greenhouse.

After a few days, when the seeds germinate and sprouts appear, they can be thinned out. In early May, they can be planted in open ground.

1. With the help of division. Carried out after the second flowering. In autumn, after pruning, the bush is carefully dug up and divided into 2 parts, the places of cuts are sprinkled with ash or coal and buried again at a distance from each other.
2. With the help of cuttings. The procedure has its own subtleties and is mainly carried out in the middle of spring or autumn, when the delphinium does not bloom. To do this, cut off a part of the cutting (about 15 cm) with a piece of root (about 2-3 cm) with a sharp tool. It is transplanted into a separate hole or tub and watered abundantly until the spur takes root.

You may also be interested in the article on caring for dracaena at home:

Good to know: after division, the flower can weaken and get sick, and bacteria can penetrate through the cut - for this, it is recommended to sprinkle the cut with crushed coal.

The latter option is preferred for several reasons:

1. Being part of a bush, the cutting is used to the terrain and adapts to it more easily;
2. The main bush practically does not suffer from division, if it is protected from infection;
3. In this way, you can easily grow a delphinium in one place, constantly updating the bushes.

In order for reproduction to go smoothly, you should watch a video on how this is done in advance.

Diseases and pests

Any problems are easier to prevent than to treat. The delphinium has few enemies, timely care and prevention will help get rid of them. Among the enemies of the plant stand out:

1. Fungal diseases: powdery mildew and leaf ramularia. To prevent, it is necessary to monitor the absence of excess water and carry out spraying.

1. Bacteriological diseases: black and ring spot. If affected leaves and branches are found, they must be immediately removed and the leaves sprayed.
2. Pests: among insects, aphids, the delphinium fly and various caterpillars that devour leaves and seeds are especially harmful. To combat them, insecticides must be used.

Despite some difficulties in care, the delphinium remains quite popular and in demand in gardening. Due to its large and bright colors, the spur is often found in the landscape of parks and summer cottages. Before buying seeds, you should look at the pictures in advance to choose the option you like best.

What varieties are best for planting in your garden, see the following video:

If in your garden there is a place for tall flowering perennials, then plant a strict and imposing aristocrat delphinium. Blooming delphiniums are always very spectacular. They have an unusual flower shape and rare shades. In addition, they do not need any special care. And the best part is that perennial species overwinter normally in our latitudes. Let's take a look at the perennial delphinium, growing from seed can provide you with a flowering plant this summer.

Delphinium, spur or larkspur (Delphinium) is a tall (up to 2 m) flowering herbaceous plant. There are over 300 annual and perennial species.

The leaves are rounded, palmately lobed, slightly hairy. On an upright stem is a large spike-shaped inflorescence, in which there can be up to 80 flowers. Alpine species are shorter.

In floriculture, various subspecies and varieties of delphinium hybrid (Delphinium x cultorum Voss.) are most often used. They are divided into groups:

— Marfin hybrids Russian selection are distinguished by high winter hardiness. But when propagated by seeds, a strong splitting of species characteristics occurs, so they are now used infrequently.

— Hybrids Belladonna(D. Belladonna) bred from labial and large-flowered varieties at the end of the 19th century. They are relatively low, have the ability to re-bloom.

Delphinium hybrids Belladonna

— Hybrids Elatum(D. x. elatum) obtained as a result of crossing with the obligatory participation of high delphinium. Large flowers of this species are most often semi-double.

Delphinium hybrids Elatum

— Pacific hybrids or Pacific (D. x pacific) bred in the USA, distinguished by tall bushes, large inflorescences and flowers. But in our climatic conditions it is often affected by diseases, therefore it is mainly used as a biennial, but it can grow up to 6 years. Needs support.

— New Zealand hybrids or New Millennium Hybrids are the most popular delphiniums. Bred by New Zealand breeder Terry Dowdeswell. They have a very high decorative effect, as they have large dense inflorescences, the purest color of various tones. And besides this, they are winter-hardy, durable and retain their original qualities during reproduction.

Delphinium New Zealand hybrids

The main feature of the delphinium is the unusual structure of the flower. It consists of 5 petals, one of which has a “spur” process. Inside are two small petals and two nectaries, which differ in color from the outer sepals. It is they who attract pollinators (bumblebees, birds), so they are called eyes or bees. This applies to simple forms, but there are also semi-double and fully terry types.

Breeding options

Perennial species of delphinium grow in one place up to 6 years, then the bush begins to thin out and requires a transplant. During such a procedure, the simplest reproduction is carried out - by dividing the bush. Do this in early spring or late summer after flowering. It is enough to separate one shoot with a healthy renewal bud and the presence of roots.

Just like other perennials, the delphinium also propagates by cuttings. Cut them in May or August. Rooted in a shaded place in a wet mixture of sand and peat (previously treated with heteroauxin). At temperatures slightly above 20 degrees, rooting occurs within two to three weeks.

Growing delphinium from seeds is also popular. Previously, propagation by seeds led to the loss of parental traits. Now, thanks to modern breeders, this problem is practically solved. New Zealand hybrids are especially good at this.

Delphinium seeds and their features

One of the difficulties in growing delphiniums from seeds is their very short shelf life. They quickly lose their viability. And so that the seeds collected in the fall can be sown on seedlings in the spring, they must be stored exclusively in the refrigerator. Seeds kept warm deteriorate, as at temperatures above 15 degrees they can begin to germinate right in the package.

Therefore, be very careful when buying seeds. Before ordering, read reviews about online stores, ask competent acquaintances. Delphinium seeds are quite expensive and it's a pity if you spend money and effort in vain.

You can collect your own seeds from flowering delphiniums. This should be done on a dry sunny day, and fully ripe dark brown seeds should be selected. It is best to store them in a glass container in the refrigerator or in another fairly cool place (veranda or balcony). However, when using your own seeds, there is a very high chance of getting plants that are different from the parent. Therefore, it is better to contact trusted stores or well-known breeders for seeds.

Sowing seeds in open ground

You can grow delphiniums from seeds by sowing them in the second half of spring directly into open ground. To do this, carefully dig up the bed (about 30 cm), apply complex fertilizers. Make superficial shallow grooves, water them well, evenly distribute the seeds and sprinkle a thin layer of dry soil on top. For better seed germination, the bed can be covered with dark agrofiber or black film. Provide regular surface watering. Shoots should appear in about 25 days. And only after that it will be possible to remove the shelter.

Young shoots should be regularly watered and fed. Loosen the soil and remove weeds. For the winter, young plants will require shelter. And next year they can already be planted in a permanent place, and they can bloom.

Winter sowing breeds annual species of delphiniums.

Sowing seeds for seedlings

You can also grow delphiniums from seeds in seedlings. Sowing seeds of delphiniums for seedlings is best done in the last days of February or at the very beginning of March. In 2019, favorable days in February are: 24-26, 28; in March - 1-2, 5, 7, 10-14 (see details). Since young shoots are not very satisfied with artificial lighting, they want more daylight.

The first step is to prepare the planting soil. It should be neutral or slightly acidic, as well as light and breathable. To do this, you can prepare a soil mixture of sand and leaf (or sod) soil, adding a little humus and peat. A special soil mixture bought in a store is also suitable.

Before use, the soil must be disinfected. There are several options. You can put it in a microwave oven for 5 minutes (maximum power) or pour it with boiling water, or you can simply pour it with a solution of manganese or Previcur.

Delphiniums do not tolerate picking very well, therefore, if possible, it is better to immediately sow them in large individual cups (9-13 cm in diameter).

Seeds before sowing should be stored in a package at a negative temperature in a freezer.

You can take any general container for sowing seeds (disposable food plastic containers with lids are popular), the main thing is to make drainage holes at the bottom, since stagnant water is detrimental to seedlings. You can put a little broken red brick or expanded clay on the bottom.

We fill the container with moist soil, compact it, leaving about two centimeters to the top edge of the container. It is important that the depth of the soil layer is at least 10 cm. We spread the seeds with a wet toothpick (they stick to one, and push them into the right place with another toothpick). It is desirable that there be a distance of 1.5-2 cm between the seeds. Lightly press them to the surface and sprinkle with the thinnest layer of soil (about 2-3 mm). We pour from a spray bottle. We cover the container with a lid or a film, and on top with black agrofibre (you can also use a black opaque film). Delphinium seeds germinate better in the dark. Please note that the temperature should not be higher than 20 degrees (15-18)! Lower is possible, and a higher temperature will inhibit the sprouts.

When the first shoots appear (after 7-12 days), we remove the dark shelter and put our container in a very bright place, but not in direct sun. On cloudy days, be sure to turn on additional lighting. It is advisable to light up in the evening. Watering drip or spray spray.

Do not forget to regularly remove condensation from the lid and gradually ventilate the seedlings. When the sprouts reach the level of the cover (film or glass), then it must be removed.

Further care

If you did not sow the seeds immediately in separate large cups, then after the appearance of the first pair of true leaves, you should pick the seedlings. Delphiniums are very sensitive to root injuries, so do this as carefully as possible.

Use large plastic cups, but it is best to dive seedlings into peat cups. You can avoid injury to plants by planting them in the garden along with a glass. When picking, carefully take the sprout by the cotyledon leaves and deepen it into the soil to the level of real leaves. Then we continue to grow seedlings at temperatures below 20 degrees, additional lighting and careful regular watering (we use a spray gun or a syringe without a needle).

A few days after picking, seedlings can be fed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer. In the future, we carry out top dressing every week.

To prevent the disease of seedlings with a "black leg", the first watering after planting, as well as after picking, should be carried out with a solution of "Previkura".

In early May, seedlings should be gradually hardened off. Take the plants outside or an open balcony, first for a few minutes, then gradually increasing the time to several hours.

Another interesting sowing method

Does delphinium need stratification?

On the question of whether it is necessary to carry out seed stratification when sowing a delphinium for seedlings, there is no consensus.

Some flower growers believe that since the seeds were stored in a cold place before sowing, they were already stratified to some extent. They sow seeds directly into the ground and get normal germination.

Other, no less experienced flower growers, believe that stratification is still necessary. To do this, containers with sown seeds (which were previously stored in the freezer) are placed in the refrigerator for about 10-14 days. Then the container is placed in a warm (+25 degrees) and bright place. And after germination, take care of the seedlings as usual. With this method, germination is also good.

So here the choice is entirely yours.

Planting in the garden

When the probability of night frosts passes, around the end of May (depending on your climatic conditions), we plant our seedlings in the allotted place in the garden.

To plant delphiniums, choose a place without wind and stagnant water. It should be sunny, but with shading at midday. The soil is suitable sandy or loamy, necessarily enriched with humus. Delphiniums normally tolerate drought, for them excessive waterlogging is much worse.

Planting density depends on the variety and compositional solution. After planting, mulch the root circle. Young plants must be shaded for the first time so that they do not get sunburn and adapt normally to new conditions. It is also important to protect the tender leaves from slugs. Do not forget to consider a support for tying grown delphiniums.

In the future, care is the most common: watering, fertilizing, loosening and removing weeds, garter. For the winter, the upper part is cut off. The delphinium hibernates without shelter. However, if your winters are frosty and often without snow, then it is better to cover the plants with straw or spruce branches.

The first year your seedlings will gain strength and grow roots. At the end of summer you will see the first, still weak, flowering. And next year you will be pleased with full flowering, which, with proper care and in accordance with the characteristics of the variety, can occur twice.

Lavender is known for its exquisite aroma, so in warm areas it is massively grown for the production of essential…

Diseases and pests

Seedlings of delphiniums from seeds, like any other, can be subject to the fungal disease "black leg". The causative agents of this disease are in the soil, therefore, for prevention, its disinfection is required. Waterlogging, dense planting and heavy soil contribute to the occurrence of the disease. If you notice a plant with blackening at the bottom of the stalk, which is becoming weak, immediately remove it. In case of group sowing, the soil should be replaced as much as possible, and then watered with a solution of the Previkur preparation.

Mature plants are affected by fungal diseases (powdery mildew, rust, root collar rot, mosaic and others). Delphiniums also suffer from bacterial (viral) diseases (spotting, curly, and others).

For fungal infections, spraying with Bordeaux liquid (5%) or other drugs that act on a particular disease is used.

With viruses, it is most often necessary to remove the affected plant. Spraying with tetracycline solution may help, but only at the very beginning of the disease. And with carriers of infections - aphids should be fought with the help of insecticides.

All these diseases appear due to improper care of plants and adverse weather conditions (long rains or severe drought). You should also regularly remove fallen leaves, thin out the bushes, and water them in a timely manner.

Delphiniums also have pests: aphids, spider mites, dolphin and onion flies, various caterpillars, slugs, which are very harmful to young leaves.

Insects must be fought with special chemicals. Against aphids, you can also use tobacco dust, garlic infusion. And metaldehyde helps fight slugs. Various folk means of struggle are quite troublesome.

Believe me, once having grown a flower, it is already impossible to stop. This process is not fast, rather complicated, but from this ...

Little hints

1. Before sowing seeds, a thin layer of river sand is sifted onto the surface of the soil. On a light sandy background, dark brown seeds will be clearly visible and this will make it possible to distribute them correctly.
2. For a more successful wintering, in addition to mulching, you can sprinkle the cut bush with sand, and cover the hollow tube of the stem with clay (or even plasticine).
3. White delphinium varieties require more light than others. Therefore, they are put in a bright place when the very first seed is hatched, without waiting for the rest.
4. If several different varieties are planted close together, the purity of the variety may not be preserved. Also, the temperature regime and the external environment can affect the color of some varieties.

Now you know how to grow a delphinium from seeds. It is not much more difficult than any other seedling. And all the troubles and efforts will immediately seem insignificant, as soon as you see the stunning splendor of large openwork candles of a blooming delphinium in your garden. Hurry up to buy seeds, because you can already start sowing!

Greek legend says that once upon a time in Ancient Hellas there lived a gifted young man who sculpted his dead beloved from memory and breathed life into the statue. For this insolence, the gods turned him into a dolphin. Once a reborn girl came to the seashore and saw a dolphin in the waves, which swam to the shore and placed a delicate flower emitting azure light at the feet of her beloved. It was a delphinium flower.

The name is related to the shape of the flower. The Greeks, in particular Dioscorides, (in the 1st century in his main work “On Medicines” described all known medicines of plant, animal and mineral origin) compared the buds with the head of dolphins (delphinos). In Russia it was called "spurr", in Germany - "knight's spurs", in England - "funny spurs", and in France - "lark's legs".

Types and varieties of delphinium

Delphinium Ajax, or garden (D. ajacis), an annual hybrid, the result of crossing species is doubtful and oriental. Height from 20 to 100 cm, taproot, leaves strongly dissected, flowers up to 5 cm in diameter. Blooms from early summer to autumn. It has been used in culture for several centuries, has many varieties and garden forms, including tall, up to 1 m, double delphiniums with dense inflorescences of hyacinth-like flowers, and dwarf plants, not higher than 30 cm. The latter include Dwarf Hyacinth-flowered cultivars with double pink, crimson, white and purple flowers.

Delphinium high (D. elatum L), a native of the northern mountains of Europe, Siberia and Mongolia, up to 1.5 m high with bare or slightly pubescent stems, and blue flowers collected in sparse brushes. In culture since 1578, often used to create hybrids. There is a giant form up to 3 m high.

Delphinium labiate (D. cheilanthum Fischer), another plant of northern origin, which is the progenitor of cultivars. Height is from 45 to 95 cm, the stems are bare, the leaves are green above, gray below, densely pubescent. Blue flowers form a simple brush.

Delphinium large-flowered or Chinese (D. grandiflorum L., D. chinensis), grows in Eastern Siberia, Korea, China, Mongolia. The plant has straight, often branched stems from 20 to 50-80 cm high, with white pubescence, leaves tripartitely divided into narrow lobes and large bright blue, sometimes white or pink flowers. Simple and terry forms are grown in gardens, the undersized, up to 30 cm, Blauer Zwerg variety is popular.

Delphinium Belladonna (D. belladonna Bergmans), varieties that appeared in the 19th century, hybrids of large-flowered and labial species. They are characterized by low (up to 1.5 m) growth, deeply dissected leaves and branched paniculate inflorescences with simple, non-double flowers. Most of the varieties included in the group are blue and blue delphiniums (Piccolo, Capri, Arnold Becklin).

Delphinium cultural (Delphinium cultorum Voss), includes other varieties bred by hybridization of tall, large-flowered, Barlow delphiniums. These are plants with a height of 20 to 150 cm with simple, semi-double and double flowers of various colors, collected in pyramidal brushes. The following groups of hybrids are distinguished.

Planting delphinium seeds for seedlings

Let's consider how to plant a delphinium with seeds - spread the flower seeds evenly over the prepared soil. If you are using granulated seeds or a small amount of seeds, spread them out with tweezers. Labels with the names of varieties of delphinium will help you not to get confused in growing delphinium from seeds. Sprinkle the sown seeds with soil on top, about 3 mm. Compact the sowing of the delphinium with seeds - pat the soil with your palm so that they do not float when watering. Spray the plantings evenly with warm water from a spray bottle and cover the crops.

Since the delphinium grows better in the dark, there are two ways to cover the delphinium seedlings:

• black film or covering material;
• with a regular plastic bag and put in a dark place until the first shoots.

Seeds do not need high temperature for germination, +10 degrees is enough. Sometimes at high temperatures, +20 seedlings may die. Plants respond well to cold, so for hardening when growing seeds, you can alternate the temperature regime - cold / warm. Seeds germinate 7-10 days after planting. Do not miss this time - you will need to remove the coating from above. To grow a delphinium, with the advent of true leaves, plantings need to dive.

Delphinium care in the open field

1. Delphinium seedlings at the time of planting in open ground are not yet large, but the distance between them can withstand a large distance (up to a meter), given the future dimensions. The surface of the soil after planting mulch is covered with compost or humus.
2. The grown plants must be built with a support, otherwise the tall stems may break - by the wind or under the weight of the flowers. In the first year of cultivation, the delphinium can not be fed.
3. Sometimes you need to carefully loosen the soil that has compacted after watering or additionally mulch it. Closer to autumn, well-grown bushes can be fed with potassium sulfate and superphosphate so that they overwinter better.
4. After flowering, flower stalks are cut off, and after the first frosts - all shoots. But the shoots of delphiniums are hollow, after cutting, water can stagnate in the stumps and cause the root collar to rot. To prevent this from happening, hemp is split to the ground.
5. Thin shoots killed by frost can simply be bent to the ground, and cut out in the spring. For the winter, the delphinium does not require shelter, but it will not be superfluous to mulch the root zone with compost and fallen leaves.

Planting delphinium rhizomatous divisions

For propagation of the delphinium by rhizome, bushes aged 3-5 years are used. The division is carried out in early spring before the start of active growth or in late August-early September after the end of the first wave of flowering. Rhizomes are divided into parts so that each of them has at least one growth bud. Sections are dusted with charcoal powder.

Holes 50 x 40 cm are dug in the selected area. The excavated soil is mixed with humus and peat, and poured back. 50 g of mineral fertilizers and a handful of wood ash are added to each hole. When planting, the root neck is left at ground level. After that, the plants are watered, weeds are regularly weeded and the ground is loosened. The distance between the bushes is planned based on the variety and type:

• 50-60 cm - for tall hybrid (height over 1.5 m.),
• 40-50 cm - for medium height (1.2-1.5 m.),
• 30-40 cm - for undersized (0.8-1.2 m).

Latest articles about gardening and gardening

Planting delphinium cuttings

For cuttings, young shoots that have reached 10-15 cm in height are used. In spring, the cuttings are broken out together with the “heel” at the base of the plant and rooted in a mini-greenhouse at a temperature of + 25 ° C and bright diffused lighting. After the cuttings have taken root (about 3-4 weeks), they are planted in open ground.

Garter and pruning delphinium

Delphinium flowers are tied up twice, at a shoot height of 40-50 cm and 1-1.2 m, then the wind or rain will not break the shoots and inflorescences. Install several stakes up to 1.5-1.8 m long near each bush. Use cut strips of fabric as a garter material.

Pruning delphiniums is required for the development of flower stalks. To do this, remove all thickening, weak shoots when the height of the stems is 20-30 cm, leaving an average of 3-5 of the most powerful shoots. Remove overgrowth in a timely manner. Delphiniums will bloom again in August-September if faded inflorescences are cut off in a timely manner. But such actions weaken the plants before the main summer flowering next year.

For a good wintering of flowers on a personal plot, in the fall, when the leaves begin to wither, they cut off the ground part, leaving only 20-30 cm of stem height. The sections are covered with clay or plasticine so that when the snow melts, water does not get into the cavity of the stem, thereby causing rotting of the rhizome. Cut parts of delphiniums are burned.

Watering the delphinium

Delphinium planting and care also consists in abundant watering, since the delphinium is considered a moisture-loving plant. For a season, one plant needs about 60 liters of water. He needs a lot of water during the formation of buds. Excessive moisture in the spring adversely affects the development of the plant. Watering should be carried out, guided by the needs of the delphinium. During a long drought, two to three buckets of water are poured under each bush once a week. Weak watering brings less benefit, since only the top of the soil is moistened.

Such watering promotes the development of a superficial root system, which in case of drought cannot provide plants with moisture. After each watering, the soil is loosened to a depth of three to five centimeters, which delays the evaporation of moisture.

In dry autumn, watering is carried out, since moisture is necessary for the development of overwintering organs. In autumn, when the first frosts come, the stems of the delphinium are cut at a height of 30 centimeters, and dry leaves and debris are removed and burned.

Thinning delphinium

In the second year of vegetation, the delphinium gives a lot of shoots, therefore, in order for it to bloom profusely with large flowers, it is necessary to thin out the plant bush. This is done in the spring when the stems reach 20-40 cm. 5-10 (depending on the variety) strong shoots are left in the bush. For better air circulation, first of all, unproductive stems in the inner part of the bush are removed.

Instead of such thinning in the fall, you can cut off excess growth buds. As a result of this procedure, nutrition in the spring will be supplied to the remaining kidneys, which will develop at an accelerated pace. If the shoots are removed with a heel (a piece of rhizome), then they can be used as cuttings for propagating larkspur.

Feeding the delphinium

I feed the plants before flowering and during flowering.

Top dressing: I feed an adult delphinium for the first time in April - 2-3 tablespoons of azofoska or 1 tbsp. spoon of superphosphate, 1 tbsp. spoon of potassium sulfate, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of urea and water 2 liters per bush.

Latest articles about gardening and gardening

The second top dressing in the budding phase is for a bucket of water 1 liter. mullein, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of complex fertilizer and under a bush 2.5-3 liters. After the first flowering, I cut off the flower stalks (I leave the stump no more than 5 cm above the ground), reduce watering to prevent the new shoots from rotting.

When a new growth of peduncles (5–8 cm) begins, I remove the old leaves, increase watering, feed systematically after 8–10 days, the composition of the fertilizer, as in the first feeding. Flowering continues until frost.

Pests and diseases of the delphinium

delphinium fly- this is the main and worst enemy! She hibernates in cocoons near the roots, and in May she lays her eggs at the base of the delphinium stem. To destroy it, you must deliberately add a special preparation against this evil spirits to the soil, as well as examine the root neck during transplantation and treat it with this agent if a fly is found.

Powdery mildew. A fairly common disease (not only the delphinium is affected, but also mirabilis, evening primrose, roses, limonium, phlox, kosmeya and other garden flowers). It is better to warn him by treating the plants with special preparations. If you do not welcome any chemistry, you can make an iodine solution (5 grams per bucket) and treat flowers with it once a week. Three procedures will be enough. For prevention, you can water the plants with tincture of onion peel.

Delphinium care before winter

In order for the plant to successfully overwinter and delight in beautiful flowering next year, it must be prepared for winter. Young crops and those planted in autumn are especially in need of this. Because they haven't settled down yet. But plants over the age of 2 years can already easily withstand frosts down to -25 degrees below zero, and under snow even up to -50 degrees below zero.

The worst thing for a delphinium is thaw. At the end of autumn, during the period when the first frosts begin, cut the stems and leave a distance of up to 40 cm from the soil. Then cover it with a layer of fallen leaves.

Delphinium (spur, larkspur) is a favorite of gardeners. Slender elegant plants adorn flower beds with long flowering, creating an exquisite landscape. Planting a delphinium in open ground and caring for it are simple, agricultural technology is simple.

Types and varieties of delphinium

Spurs are divided into one- and perennial. The first relatively low, usually up to a meter, medium-sized flowers. The height of perennials exceeds 2 m, the diameter of flowers is about 10 cm. Annuals are less demanding, they begin to bloom earlier. The rules for growing both groups are the same.

Annual delphiniums

The most widespread are two types of annuals.

• D. field - a tall plant, the height of some varieties exceeds 1 m. Double or simple flowers are painted in pink, white, blue, lilac tones. Flowering lasts until September. Popular varieties are Frosted Sky with white and blue flowers, Qis Rose with soft pink color, Qis Dark Blue with dark blue inflorescences.
• D. Ajax is a medium-sized species, from 30 cm to 1 m tall. The color of the flowers is usually lilac-pink, varieties with red or purple inflorescences are less common. The most spectacular varieties of Rasa Kelsey with pale pink, white, purple or lilac flowers; Koenigs Rittersporn up to a meter high, the flowers are painted in shades of pink, white, blue; variety series Hyacinth mixture - low, up to 50 cm, plants with double inflorescences of various colors and shades.

Perennial delphiniums

For convenience, more than 400 species and varieties of perennial spurs are classified into five main groups.

1. Elatum. A line of varieties, united by the color of the buds - purple, blue, blue.
2. Marfin hybrids. A series of tall (up to 2 m) hybrids with semi-double flowers.
3. New Zealand delphiniums. The height reaches 2.5 m, the diameter of double or semi-double flowers is about 7 cm, the color of the inflorescences is varied. The flowering period is about 50 days. The variety series also includes a new La Boheme hybrid, a chameleon delphinium, in which the color of flowers in purple-blue tones changes to silver-white over time.
4. Pacific hybrids. Spreading 2-meter bushes. The length of the inflorescence with double or semi-double flowers reaches 1 m (without peduncle).
5. Variety series Belladonna. The flowers are distinguished by long pedicels, they seem to fall down. Height - up to 120 cm.

Growing delphinium

It is not difficult to grow a spur in open ground conditions even with our harsh winters. Success is guaranteed if you follow the recommendations of experienced gardeners.

Site selection and soil preparation

Delphinium loves open sunny places, but flowers with a bright, saturated color often fade with an abundance of sunlight. It is optimal to arrange the landings so that in the morning they are well lit by the sun, and in the afternoon they turn out to be shaded.

The place should be protected from drafts and wind, since tall flower stalks are fragile - they are hollow inside.

The soil is preferably loamy, loose, neutral, without stagnant water. If necessary, arrange flower beds with a drainage layer or dig drainage grooves where excess moisture will drain.

The requirements for soil fertility in the spur are high - when preparing the site in the fall, organic matter (compost or humus) and minerals - potassium- and phosphorus-containing fertilizers - must be added.

Growing and planting seedlings

The seedling method, as a rule, is preferred to direct sowing of seeds in a flower bed.

Before sowing, the seeds are kept in a cold place, because keeping warm significantly reduces their germination.

Growing seedlings of delphinium takes place according to the following algorithm.

1. Seeds are sown from the second half of February.
2. Pre-sowing treatment consists of disinfection with a solution of potassium permanganate, then the seeds are washed with water, dipped in a stimulant solution overnight. In the morning they are taken out, dried.
3. The substrate for germinating seeds consists of humus or peat, garden soil and sand. The soil mixture is recommended to be disinfected. Immediately before sowing, vermiculite is added to it.
4. The seedling container is filled with a substrate, compacted a little, spread the seeds, sprinkle them with a small layer of soil mixture.
5. Moisten the crops with a spray bottle.
6. The container is covered with glass, on top of which dark material is placed.
7. For 3 days, the crops are kept at a temperature of 10-15°C.
8. After that, the seedling container is kept in the cold for two weeks - in the refrigerator or on an uninsulated closed balcony.
9. Crops are regularly moistened and ventilated.
10. With the emergence of seedlings, the seedling container is transferred to a bright place with an air temperature of about 20 ° C, the glass and blackout are removed.
11. Dive seedlings into separate pots at the stage of 2 true leaves.
12. When 4 leaves are formed, seedlings begin to harden.
13. Fertilizing with mineral complex fertilizers is carried out twice with an interval of 15 days.

Seedlings are planted in open ground in steadily warm weather. The wells are prepared according to the size of the earthy coma of seedlings. The excavated soil is mixed with peat or humus (1: 2), laid out on the bottom of the hole. The distance between plants is determined by the variety (but not less than 30 cm).

When planting seedlings, make sure that the root neck remains at ground level.

Care

Spur care activities do not cause difficulties for gardeners, including beginners.

• Watering and feeding

Watered in the absence of precipitation for more than 5 days. Rain or settled water is poured under the root.

Mineral fertilizers are applied three times per season. They usually use complexes for flowering plants - "Kemira", "Fertika",. It is advisable to lay organic matter in the form of mulch.

• Soil care

The root system needs oxygen, so throughout the season the soil under the plants is regularly loosened and weeds are removed. It is useful to use mulch from peat or compost - such a simple action will protect against weeds, retain moisture, looseness of the soil.

• Pruning and garter

Pruned delphiniums in two stages.

When the shoots grow up to 20-25 cm, 4-5 of the strongest are left, the rest are broken out. Fewer shoots will result in more abundant blooms.

After flowering is completed, flower stalks that have become unnecessary are removed to improve the appearance of the flower garden. Leave only those shoots from which they plan to collect seeds.

Plants are tied to supports after the first pruning, when the stems grow up to half a meter. Pegs are driven into the ground around each bush - one per peduncle. Tied up with strips of fabric or special clamps. Thin ropes or wire are not suitable, they cut the stems.

• Preparing for winter

Before winter, the stems are not cut, as water enters the internal cavities, which causes rotting of the base of the stems and roots. So that protruding dry sticks do not spoil the view, the stems are broken closer to the base and left to winter.

Bushes spud with dry soil or peat, protecting the root system from frost. The measure is considered optional, since the delphiniums tolerate the Russian winter well.

Reproduction of the delphinium

The flower is propagated by generative (seed) and vegetative methods.

Sowing seeds

Growing seedlings discussed above. Also, seeds can be sown in open ground or under a film.

Under the film, the seeds are sown in March-April, the delphinium will bloom this year.

May sowing seeds directly into the flower bed will produce flowers for the next year.

Podzimny and winter sowing is best carried out in containers, which are then buried under the snow. Seedlings are friendly, dive them at the stage of 2 leaves.

Sowing at the end of autumn can be done directly on the flower bed, on prepared places, which are then mulched with dry peat.

The sowing technology is quite simple.

1. For each square meter, wood ash is added - 100 g, nitrophoska - 1 tbsp. l., humus - 3 kg.
2. The bed is dug to a depth of 30 cm.
3. Make grooves 2-3 cm deep, moisten them.
4. Seeds are laid out at a distance of 20-25 cm from each other, sprinkled with dry earth, lightly rammed.
5. Crops are covered with a film, which is removed after germination.

Growing crops continues until autumn. Basic care consists of 4 points:

• regular (every 2-3 days) moistening of the soil at the rate of 2 liters of water per square meter;
• top dressing every 15-20 days with half the concentration of fertilizers;
• soil loosening;
• weed removal.

Transplantation to a permanent place is carried out in the spring.

Propagation of spurs with seeds collected independently produces plants that differ in flower color from the parent. To preserve varietal characteristics, vegetative propagation methods are used.

Division of the rhizome

This is a very delicate procedure, since the spur does not like to be disturbed by its root system. The traditional use of a shovel in this case is excluded, they work with small-sized inventory or with their hands.

The age of the divided bush is at least 4 years. By this time, the plant reaches full maturity, forms high-quality shoots that easily take root in a new place.

The timing of the procedure is spring, when new leaves begin to grow, or autumn, from the moment the seeds begin to ripen.

They operate as follows.

1. The plant is carefully dug up, manually sorted into sections. You can use a sharp, disinfected knife. Each division should have a growth point and roots.
2. Cuts and fractures are slightly dried, powdered with wood ash or crushed charcoal.
3. Delenki are planted in a pre-prepared place. At first, they need constant shading.

In the first months, delenki need increased attention.

cuttings

Cuttings are cut in spring, choosing young thin shoots about 10 cm long without voids inside. They are separated from the mother plant in the area of ​​​​the root collar, while a “heel” should remain on them - a piece of rhizome.

For rooting cuttings, boxes or specially designated beds are used. The composition of the substrate is peat and sand, mixed in equal quantities. Deepen by 2 cm, cover. The rooting place should be warm (20-25 ° C), shaded. The process lasts about 5 weeks, after which the cuttings are planted for growing. The landing of new bushes in a permanent place is carried out in the spring of next year.

Diseases and pests

Among the most dangerous diseases of the delphinium, powdery mildew, fusarium, and bacterial rot are distinguished. Apply spraying with fungicides, tetracycline solution, soil disinfection with manganese solution. For preventive purposes, especially if the summer turned out to be damp, the soil between the plants is sprinkled with ash.

Of the pests, insects and larvae that feed on tender leaves annoy - aphids, thrips, beetles scoops. To combat them, insecticides are used. A good result is the use of ammonia (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) or tar water (1 tablespoon of pharmacy birch tar per 5 liters of water).

Compliance with the rules for growing a delphinium in a flower garden does not take much time and effort. Proper care is the key to successful flowering of an exquisite plant, spectacular both in group plantings and as a tapeworm.