How and when to prune fruit trees. When to prune trees

Recently, in a hardware store, I met my gardener friend, Sergei Ivanovich Stepashin. I talked to him. He bought garden pitch and two new pruning shears. A woman stood nearby and asked: “Why are you going to the garden so early? There is snow up to the waist!” Sergei Ivanovich answers her that it is time to do pruning, otherwise the juices in the trees will wake up.

But the woman again objected in disbelief: “What juices? Apple trees will bloom only in May, there is still a lot of time before that, you will have time. It's hard to cut in the snow. I come to the garden in mid-April, so there are still snowdrifts behind the house.”

Expressing her concern about the inconvenience associated with the snow, the woman was surprised that Sergei Ivanovich chose the most expensive tool. “They would take that secateurs over there, cheaper.What's the difference than to cut the branches? It’s good that my apple trees are young, they don’t need to be cut at all.”

And then an experienced gardener read a “lecture” to a talkative customer. All advice was very valuable, and at my request, he allowed them to be published.

Sergey Ivanovich is an experienced gardener. Everyone goes to him for advice, because in any year he is with the harvest. He considers pruning of fruit crops to be very important. It ensures the health of the tree and good, stable yields. There are three main conditions that must be met.

1. Let's start with the timing. Pruning is carried out in late winter or early spring, when the threat of frost with temperatures below -15C has passed (in Central Russia, usually from late February to mid-late April). Therefore, dear gardeners, if you come to the garden only by mid-April, then this is the deadline for pruning!

Apple trees bloom really late and do not show signs of life for a long time. But hidden processes take place in them, including sap flow. If pruning is carried out during this period, then the wounds do not dry out for a long time and the branches flow through them with juice. Stone fruit cultures awaken much earlier, they must be cut first.

2. Pruning of fruit trees should be carried out from the first year after planting. Young apple trees also need pruning, like any other. You can not wait until the crown is overgrown and it will have to be thinned out a lot. This is no longer a pruning, but an execution for a tree. Proper pruning involves the formation of a crown from a “childhood” age, that is, a gradual, annual removal of unwanted branches and shortening, changing the shape of selected skeletal branches.

3. You need to trim only with a sharp tool. You should be aware that not every tool is suitable for trimming. Cheap secateurs and loppers are made of soft metal that quickly becomes dull and burrs. Their blades severely injure tissue. A good tool is made of high quality steel, which holds an edge perfectly. This pruner also lasts much longer. Naturally, their price is higher.

Why form a crown

When forming a crown Special attention give to the choice of future skeletal branches. They must meet the following requirements: departure angle - 40-60 degrees; in one tier - no more than three branches.

Compliance with the departure angles is necessary so that in the future the tree, without installing supports, holds a crop of up to 500 kg. At acute angles of departure, the connection between the branch and the trunk is weak, and the stress “to tear” is quite large. In especially fruitful years, even large branches break. Sometimes the tree breaks in half.

Branches with an acute angle of departure are either cut out or bent back by installing spacers (Fig. 2.).

It is also necessary to observe the condition that there should be no more than three branches in one tier. Otherwise, the crown thickens, and in low light, the yield decreases, the taste of fruits deteriorates, shoots ripen worse and diseases begin to develop.

Pruning young seedlings

Pruning begins in the first year after planting. seedlings of spring and autumn planting cut the same way. The meaning of this pruning is to balance the roots damaged during digging and the aerial part. Sometimes this is done in the nursery.

Annual seedlings without branching are pruned at a height of 80-100 cm above the soil level (Fig. 1, a). This stimulates the formation of lateral shoots from which skeletal branches will be formed.

In a branched seedling 1-2 years old, all side branches are removed at a height of 60-70 cm (Fig. 1, b). Often, gardeners feel sorry for the seedling, believing that "he still has nothing to cut." But such pruning forms the stem of the future tree. All branches below 60 cm are simply not needed. Below, they are poorly lit and produce a small crop. Over time, they will still have to be trimmed, but the wounds will be larger.

Branches located above 70 cm are shortened by 1/3-1/4 part. Usually this is done over the 3-5th kidney, counting from the base of the shoot (see Fig. 1, c). At the same time, the principle of subordination of branches is observed. The central shoot (leader, or conductor) should be 15-20 cm higher than the side branches, and the shoots located higher along the stem should be shorter than those below. Usually, a two-year-old seedling has 3-4 side branches that are shorter than the conductor. In the case when all branches are developed approximately equally and the central shoot is not the leader in growth, a strong pruning of the side branches is carried out in order to achieve the principle of subordination of tiers. Sometimes a seedling has duplicate shoots (if two adjacent buds have developed on the stem). Leave one, the most well-located branch, and the second is cut into a ring.

Principles of crown formation. The angle of origin of the skeletal branches is 40-60 degrees; in one tier - no more than three branches; the leader should be higher than the side branches; the branches of the upper tiers should be shorter than the lower tiers.

After the winter, it may turn out that the leader is broken or very cold. In this case, it is replaced by the most powerful, closely spaced shoot, tying it vertically to the stump left by the conductor, or to a peg stuck in the ground.

The same pruning rules are followed for a three-year-old tree and older. Moreover, the principle of subordination of branches is also observed for lateral skeletal branches. Overgrowing branches on them should be shorter than the side conductor. Figuratively speaking, the principle of subordination can be represented as a kind of “rounded triangle”, into which the tree itself must fit after the formation of the crown and its skeletal branches (Fig. 3).

In the future, pruning of a young tree is carried out in order to create a light, sparse crown. This should be done not only in spring, but also in summer. For example, already in the summer you can see which shoots grow inside the crown. They are removed immediately while they are still green. Young shoots growing down, pinch. Duplicate shoots are cut or transferred to another position using stretch marks. "Green pruning" is the most forgiving form of pruning.

You can find this article in the newspaper "Magic Garden" of 2011 No. 6.

The main purpose of pruning fruit, fruit trees in the garden - this is the ratio as well as the most complete exchange of nutrients necessary for the tree for fruiting and growth between the root system on one side and the crown on the other.

Among the crown formation methods, usually 2 are distinguished (if we are talking about decorative pruning, you can add a few more, but this is material for another article for which we will definitely find a place on vsaduidoma.ru later).

1. Shortening - that is, in fact, the removal of any parts of the branch
2. Thinning is when entire branches are removed to form the correct crown.

What does cropping give when using the shortening method? It is very simple - when shortening a tree, it both gives birth to new buds and awakens old ones, the so-called sleeping ones.

Thinning, as a method of pruning, is more correct to use when the crown is too thickened, there is little light on the fruits, because of which they lose their taste, their useful properties, and, which is important not only for summer residents, but also for farmers - presentation.

Optimal is such a thinning pruning, in which the crown of the tree becomes, as it were, translucent, openwork, with a slight shading, and not a dark spot.

What is shaping pruning and when should it be done?

After planting new seedlings in the garden, they should be at rest for some time - everything, of course, depends on the type of seedlings - more on that below) in the first season they should not be cut at all, except perhaps when you see that a separate branch can cause some kind of seedling It's obviously irreparable damage.

For the next season or after 2 years, when the seedling has taken root and successfully overwintered, it is already possible to proceed to the so-called "forming crown pruning". It is done, first of all, for the convenience of collecting fruits, as well as caring for a tree, and as a rule, unless otherwise intended, it is made low. When working on the formation of the crown, I try to cut the trees so that from the top step of my highest garden stepladder I can easily reach most of the branches.

The simplest and most common form is the sparse-tiered one familiar to many. It consists of tiers of skeletal branches that extend from the main trunk, and one main conductor, or as it is also called the "leader".

When pruning trees in orchard You must follow a simple but important rule. It consists in the so-called subordination of branches. That is, the lower branches should always be thicker than the upper ones. You can deviate from this rule only by carrying out decorative pruning, over trees that you value little and, for example, make a garden on trellises.

For the next season, choose the shoot that has developed the most by doing general pruning it needs to be made thirty percent longer than the rest, the so-called "skeletal" branches.

After that, move on to shortening other strong branches, those that diverge from the main tree trunk at an angle of less than 90 degrees.

On the first tier of the tree, leave 2-3 skeletal branches extending from the tree trunk at an angle of forty-five degrees. At the same time, make sure that the tops of such branches are cut “under one”, that is, they must be on the same level.

The next tier should be 50-65 centimeters from the other. As a rule, the formation of the crown is carried out correctly and is considered complete when the main branches are left on the tree, and branches of the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th levels are on them.

What is the "transfer of branches to bear fruit" and how to do it correctly

This is done so that the remaining branches after such pruning begin to bear fruit sooner.

To do this, you need to remove the tops that appear (see the dictionary), which will constantly grow where the largest branches were removed.

In addition, in order for new branches to grow horizontally, flower buds are laid on them and fruits appear, unnecessary shoots are cut into a developed side branch, and first-year shoots are cut into an external bud.

For the same on young fruit trees at the beginning summer season, one and two-year-old branches of the 1st, and then the 2nd tiers, carefully bend to the bottom and secure with a rope or tourniquet.

What is trimming and how to do it

To maintain the normal fruiting of trees in the garden, branches need to be cut annually. Take this as a basic rule - this is not a one-time job.

The main difference in the process of pruning old fruit-bearing trees from those planted relatively recently is that in old ones, the branches are shortened to a shorter length. This is understandable - many fruit trees have relatively short term life and even shorter active fruiting, and vitality old trees are no longer the same. To this it is also worth adding the damage from frost, poor ecology, diseases and pests.

The main skeletal branches that have grown by 60 or more centimeters must be cut to 30% of the original length, shoots and processes are simple - they are cut into three buds.

If one of the branches grows stronger than the others, then in order not to harm the tree, its growth must be restrained, observing the already aforementioned rule of “subordination of branches”.

The top of the tree crown should be cut off when thinning more, while the branches that are located on the main branch-leader at the first and second levels should be completely removed.

How to carry out sanitary pruning of fruit trees in the garden

Fruit trees, especially peaches and apricots, often freeze at the end of winter. Sanitary pruning brings affected plants back to life, helping not to waste nutrients on awakening buds on dying branches.

In order to understand which branches need to be removed, they are carefully cut. If the wood is light or light green - the branch is healthy, if it is light brown - it is frozen, brown color indicates its death. Dying and damaged branches should be taken out of the garden and burned or crushed and used for compost.

Anti-aging pruning

To stimulate the growth of branches of aging trees with small fruits and an annual growth of less than 30-35 cm, all growth over the past few years is removed on them:

with weak rejuvenation, 2-3-year-old wood is cut;

with moderate - 4-5 years old;

with a strong - 6-8-year-old.

General pruning rules - to summarize what has been said

We mentioned above that a tree suffers from a lack of sunlight. To what has been said, one can add only that which is more difficult and general care behind a tree - for example, spraying: it is difficult for a solution of pesticides to penetrate the curtain from the net of young shoots.

Leave the distance between the extreme branches of the 1st and 2nd tier not less than 60-75 centimeters, 2nd and 3rd 25-25 centimeters.

The smaller the angle of those branches that you plan to leave and that move away from the leader, the greater the load they can withstand (applies to both snow and wind, and crops). Therefore, it is preferable to leave inflows extending from the main one by a degree not less than 45.

Branches growing towards the center of the tree crown must always be removed. You also need to do with parallel branches growing upwards.

The removal of the so-called "sprouts-tops" should also be done constantly, especially pay attention to those that have grown at the base of large branches and near the main trunk of the tree (straight from the ground).

Figure 1: Pruning scheme: A - bad placement, B - good placement for the first tier, C - good placement for the first and second tiers.

Trimming types

How to prune a tree on the so-called "outer bud"

Unnecessary, superfluous one-year layers are pruned to the outer kidney. This is the name of the kidney, which is located on the outside of the new shoots.

This must be done to ensure the correct growth of branches in a horizontal direction, resulting in an increase in the yield of fruits and fruits.

A - right, at an angle of 45 °, B - wrong, too deep, the kidney will dry out, C - wrong, a stump-thorn is left.

How to cut into a ring.

Extra large branches are cut out “on the ring”, without leaving a stump, otherwise a bunch of unnecessary shoots will come out of it or it will die off and become a place for the formation of a hollow: G - right, D - wrong, a stump is left, E - wrong, an annular influx is cut off. Thick branches are cut off, having previously filed them from the underside: W - wrong, 3 - right.

Figure 2: External bud and ring pruning views

Features of the formation and pruning of different crops

Pome fruit pruning begins in February, when the danger of severe frosts has passed, at a temperature not lower than -2-4 ° C. At lower temperatures, the wood becomes brittle and it is impossible to make even cuts. The best time for pruning stone fruits - the end of March-April.

How to prune pome fruits - apple and pear

Usually, in young pome trees, the annual growth is 30-50 cm, in stone fruits - 70-100 cm. If it is less, the trees need to be rejuvenated.

Apple tree

Pruning depends on the characteristics of the variety and, of course, on the strength of growth and rootstock:

on strong and medium-sized rootstocks, the crown is formed according to a sparse-tiered system;

on medium-sized ones - in the form of a spindle-like bush;

on dwarfs - in the form of a slender spindle or palmette on trellises.

When growth is weakened to 20-25 cm, the tree is rejuvenated every 3-4 years for 2-3-year-old wood, with a decrease in fruiting, for 4-6-year-old wood.

Pear

(also read about pear pruning and crown formation)

Formed with a compressed crown and a strong central conductor. The main technique for a pear is thinning and shortening to the outer kidneys. On trees grafted on vigorous rootstocks, the branches are shortened by 1/3-1/2 of the length of the annual growth, and the branches on the skeletal branches are moderately 1/5 of the length to avoid excessive branching. Pears grafted on quince are formed in the form of a bowl, cutting out the central conductor.

Proper pruning of stone fruits - plums, cherry plums, cherries

Considering the strong thickening of the crowns and the fruiting characteristics of stone fruits, the main method of pruning is thinning.

Cherries

Young trees with an increase of up to 1 m per year are shortened by 50%. The sparsely-tiered crown of the sweet cherry is formed from 5-6 branches: in the lower tier, on the branches of the first order, 2-3 branches of the 2nd order are laid at recommended intervals of 50 centimeters.

Formed trees are pruned weakly, limited to thinning. Remember, sweet cherries bear fruit on bouquet branches that form on old wood, which means thinning is the best technique.

Cherry

Annual sanitary pruning of the crown is carried out by shortening and thinning. Cherry bears fruit on annual growths of the vegetative type, which means that the growth is shortened only if it reaches 40 cm. The main pruning method is thinning.

Also below in the photo we offer you, dear gardeners, to see several types of pruning of trees and shrubs in the garden for the most important, three-year growth cycle.

Pruning a garden - types and methods

It is she who helps to achieve a balance between the process of fruiting and the growth of fruit trees. In this case, the degree of pruning primarily depends on the type of rootstock. The basic rule: the branches of the "giants" on vigorous rootstocks are shortened only slightly or not touched at all. But trees grafted onto low-growing rootstocks are always pruned heavily (see the figure on the right).
As a rule, a tree on a low-growing rootstock is formed in the form of a spindle-shaped bush. With this shape of the crown, all branches extending from the central conductor are oriented horizontally or slightly elevated.
Important: in the first year after planting, the branches in the upper part of the crown are shortened more than in the lower part (see the figure below on the left). Trees on vigorous rootstocks, as a rule, are grown in the form of a semi-stem with a spherical crown. In order to form it, several powerful skeletal branches of the first order, evenly spaced around the trunk, are left, directed rather steeply upwards. Later, they will overgrow with fruit twigs and sink under their own weight.
1. Heavy pruning stimulates very active growth of new shoots and the development of long lateral branches with large quantity flower buds.
2. If you remove only the tops of the branches, the growth of young shoots will be weak. After such pruning, mostly short side branches will appear.

• In the first year, shorten the side shoots so that the crown acquires pyramidal shape. Next year, remove all vertically growing shoots. But do not cut the central conductor and side branches!
• When buying, choose a young plant with 3-4 powerful skeletal branches. After planting, remove all vertical shoots growing inside the crown. Shorten the skeletal branches and the central conductor so that they are approximately at the same level. In this case, the central shoot should rise above the side shoots by about 10 cm.
• • Top: Heavy pruning encourages very vigorous new shoot growth and the development of long side branches with many flower buds.
  • Bottom: If only the tops of the branches are removed, the growth of young shoots will be weak. After such pruning, mostly short side branches will appear.

Choosing a pruning tool

It's time for spring pruning of trees and shrubs.

In the southern regions, this time comes a little earlier, until March, during the dormant period of plants. To the north, pruning is carried out later, until the beginning of flowering. There are many advantages to such a late pruning in the northern regions, for example, trees cut later recover faster after a harsh winter. It is worth preparing in advance for seasonal work and purchasing the right tool. But many face difficulties when choosing in a store or garden center - so diverse modern assortment. How to choose the right tool for cropping will be discussed in this article.

At first, for garden pruning of trees, you will need three tools: a simple pruner for near branches, a meter pruner for medium shoots on eight to ten years old trees, and a long pruner for removing branches at a height.

Pruning shears

When choosing a secateurs, first of all, pay attention to its type. A simple guillotine-type pruner is designed like scissors. Another type of pruner, more powerful, is a contact. With such a tool, the knife rests against the receiving part, as a result, more force is pressed. But does this mean that a contact pruner is preferable? It depends on your goals. So, with a pruner with intersecting blades, it is easy to cut thin branches, as well as cut them into a ring, that is, without hemp. It is good to remove thicker knots, up to 3 cm, with a contact pruner, as well as shorten the branches, but you cannot get to the base of the shoot with such a tool - a stump remains, which is unacceptable during pruning. So which of the two types do you prefer? For starters, you can stop at a guillotine-type pruner or purchase both tools, depending on the tasks at hand.

The second issue that the gardener faces is the choice of pruner body. It comes in aluminum and plastic. The first is more reliable, will withstand a more serious load. Plastic secateurs are also quite good, depending on the quality of production.

Pay attention to the design of the spring: the more complex it is, the more expensive the tool, but such a pruner can break faster. A simple rule applies here: simpler design, for example with a removable spring, the better. A defective spring can always be replaced with a new one.

Important when choosing a secateurs and the thickness of the blade. It is better to prefer a product with thin blades, about 2 - 2.5 cm. It will be much easier to work with such a tool.

We also look at the quality of metal hardening. As a rule, the quality of steel from reputable manufacturers is high, such a pruner will last a long time. Hard hardened steel is brittle and knives are hard to sharpen. Weak hardening is the reason for bending secateurs that quickly become dull.

Garden shears or pruner

Usually designed for use with both hands, their handles can be from 30 to 90 cm long, form a convenient lever and are telescopic (retractable). The design can be guillotine and contact type, as well as with amplifiers (ratchet mechanism). Guillotine loppers leave a nice clean cut and are suitable for live wood. A lopper with interlocking blades pushes more than it cuts, so it is more suitable for trimming dry, dead branches.

Knot garden saw

Knots with a thickness of more than 3 cm will help to remove a garden saw. The main thing to pay attention to when choosing a saw is the sharpening of the tooth. When pruning trees, the quality of the cut is important. A saw with a plain tooth beveled to one side produces a rough cut that will require additional trimming.

A good garden saw should have a tooth with an additional bevel - the wound after cutting with such a tool will heal much faster. On sale there are saws with a trihedral sharpening and with holes on the blade. This design provides a clean and easy cut.

The handle of a garden saw should be with a convenient rounding, such a handle device reduces fatigue when performing work. It can also be reinforced with a metal plate.

The choice of garden saws is large, so be guided by the price that suits you and its quality.

Who's the last one to CUT?

To make all the green pets in the garden look like brave guardsmen, you need to regularly and in strict order “take” them to the “hairdresser”. Is there no such specialist? How not? What are you on? Read and master the right gardening profession.

And how she jumps!

From childhood I learned that any gardener without patience is nowhere. But I read an article where the author, in particular, complained that young cherries did not grow in him. Yes, this happens often, and, of course, not only with this fruit crop. I'll tell you how I managed to negotiate with my "thinking" pear.

I bought it on the market: a late variety, a healthy seedling, even, without damage. When planting, she did everything as it should: she fertilized the hole, shed it, sprinkled the roots of the tree, slightly compacted the earth and watered it again. Only grow!

By the way, pears are very fond of water, and they bloom only when their roots grow so long that they themselves can get moisture from the depths.

And here my pear sits for two, three, four, five, six years ... I constantly fed her all the time, weeded around her, loosened, dug, and at least she would have henna. Finally, unable to stand it, I decided to transplant it to another corner of the garden. But, since I already knew that young trees should be planted on the growing Moon and on the fertile days of Leo, Aries and Sagittarius, I prepared everything in advance and began to wait for a convenient time. I waited. And on the new moon, cutting off the frail stem (leaving only 11 cm above the graft), I planted the pear in a well-filled hole. It was in the fall of 2015.

And what do you think? Over the next summer, the tree suddenly jumped as much as 54 cm! And in 2017, the pear turned out to be already more than a meter high, and it grew two trunks at once, one of which, however, I removed this early spring so that the tree does not spray its strength. And now I will form a pear so that it develops not only upwards, but also in breadth - I want to make its crown rounded, since tall “thin” trees are harder to maintain (and you also suffer with harvesting) ..

So, dear, pinch on the fruitful day on the new moon (or two days before the new moon) those branches on your cherry that you have already cut. And next early spring, before the buds open, pour it from the crown to the ground with a life-giving solution of urea (400 g per bucket of water). By this means, by the way, it is good to process all berry bushes, and apple trees will be grateful for such top dressing. And as for the cherry specifically, it loves mulch, dry ash and celandine to grow under it. If all this does not help, you, Anatoly Andreevich, will have to transplant the tree to another place. Just not next to the apple tree - they are not so hot as friends. Well, if everything goes well, then switch your attention to the correct and timely pruning. By the way, can I now tell you everything I know about her? Yes, I probably will. Moreover, among the readers of "Dacha" there will certainly be many who would like to clarify this issue for themselves. For example, in No. 2 for this year, Elena Stanislavovna Goryunova, in the article “In one fell swoop”, was interested in “cutting” the apple tree.

Song about rabbits

I will tell you about my experience of pruning both on an adult tree and on eight-year-olds.

The former owners of the site left me autumn apple tree, which certainly exchanged the third decade. And in the season before last, her branches began to dry out, and the bark began to peel off. In short, she was bent, cordial. And her fruits are very tasty, large, the pulp is creamy, sweet and sour, in moderation. It's a pity to lose such kindness.

And I started looking for advice on how to be here. And the answer was found, and even in several versions - in letters about the fight against bacterial burns. Indeed, according to all the signs described by readers, it was precisely such a misfortune that happened to my apple tree. I cut down all the diseased branches, leaving only a branched trunk, and treated all the cuts with metronidazole (spread 10 tablets in a bucket of water).

And the disease subsided, because the next summer, new shoots began to grow on the places of saw cuts. A little later, she appeared on the main trunk - good, strong.

I think that this summer it will be possible to form a crown, having precisely determined what to cut and what to leave (after all, you also need to thicken in moderation). And to you, dear Elena Stanislavovna, I advise you to leave the best branch on the apple tree, and cut down all the rest to the ground, but only necessarily on the new moon and on a fertile day. And do not forget at least occasionally to water this unfortunate apple tree under the root.

And now about eight-year-old trees and their pruning.

A few years ago, the winter turned out to be snowy, cold, so hungry bunnies ate their bark, and on such a scale that they completely killed one. The rest I decided to save. I started by sawing off all the tops of them, leaving only the “columns” that did not suffer, as they were under the snow (later they asked me for a long time why I poked sticks in the garden).

Spring, meanwhile, was gaining momentum, and the "columns", to my joy, came to life: they released small buds, from which young twigs then violently climbed. And now my sufferers are already full-fledged trees again, and some of them even began to bear fruit.

By the way, with the help of cardinal pruning, currant bushes can also be updated: in early spring or very late autumn cut them flush with the ground, cover them with fertile soil, and on top - with fallen leaves.

And then, by the end of next summer, you, dear readers, will grow a healthy young bush, which next year will already give good harvest. This has been verified more than once by me and my neighbors (and they are all excellent, hard-working and intelligent people). But, of course, I do all pruning (we are even talking about removing individual extra branches) only on the waning moon or four days after the full moon (and not on the days of Cancer, Scorpio and Pisces), since this is a “wet” time, and wounds on plants, they heal so badly (all cuts immediately begin to “cry”) that some weak “patients” may even die. And with the waning moon, the cut branch will not give growth very soon (or will not give it at all), which means that thickening does not threaten.

Scourge in a cage

So, she said about the apple tree, cherry and pear. The plum remained, because it also has its own special quirks. For example, Galina Nikolaevna Kozlova, in her article “Gardening Problems,” complained that it was not clear why she refused to bear fruit. Yes, sometimes loosening and adding organics is not enough. Personally, in such cases, in early spring and late autumn, I spray the tree with a solution of iron sulfate, and two weeks after that with urea. And also root dressing I do: in 3 liters of water I dilute 70 g of ammopho-ski and 1 liter of fermented grass. Plum generally likes to be soft near its trunk, and therefore the mulch for it is the first thing.

Let me tell you more about the blackberry. My daughter and I made a “cage” for her 1.2 m high from wooden bars, and now I put all the regrown lashes on the crossbars and braid them - it turns out a green basket. And I pinch only those that grow up to 3 m. For the winter, I take off all the lashes, tie them lightly in separate bundles, cover them with burlap, corn stalks, spruce branches and sprinkle with earth.

But before that, first I always water the bushes abundantly, bring in manure, liquid fertilizer(40 g of ammophoska and superphosphate per bucket of water), I cover with fresh mulch.

And then the blackberry hibernates without problems, in the spring the green foliage even remains on the lashes. In the new season, I repeat everything: I remove the old blackened whips, I braid the young ones again. By the way, I want to thank L. A. Zauzolkov, who in his article “Vaccination with clothespins” suggested advice - to do pinching during vaccinations. Indeed, a good idea!

With the help of readers' advice, I cured gum disease and my apricot - mustard from a jar, which I lubricated the wounds, turned out to be a miracle cure!

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When pruning and forming the crown of fruit trees, it is important to consider several important factors. There are five periods in the life of fruit crops: the first is the growth of vegetative parts, the second is active growth and fruiting; the third is a balanced growth and fruiting, the fourth is a decrease in growth and fruiting, the fifth is a period of aging. Before cutting the branches of fruit trees, you need to choose a method that matches this period.

In the first period of the life of a culture grafted on a seed rootstock, which, under the conditions of the middle zone, lasts an average of about six to seven years, a formative pruning is performed.

Before forming pruning of fruit trees, the following tasks are set: creation of a strong skeleton of the tree crown for its normal growth and fruiting; creating conditions for good lighting leaves not only along the periphery, but also inside the crown to increase their productivity; the creation of a limited number of unproductive main strongly growing upward skeletal branches necessary to accommodate fruit-bearing, more horizontal branches in space; creation a large number more horizontal, fruit-bearing, semi-skeletal branches, on which the bulk of the fruit branches are located, which include annelids, spears, fruit twigs; creation of low-volume crowns with a tree height of no more than 3-3.5 m as necessary condition to increase productivity in tree care and harvesting.

When forming the crown of fruit trees, it is necessary to take into account the biological characteristics and structure of the culture. The above-ground part of the tree is made up of the trunk and its branches, which form the crown. The lower part of the trunk, from the soil to the first branches growing strongly upwards, is called a trunk. The rest of the trunk, above the stem, is called the central conductor, which ends at the top, during the dormant period of the fruit tree, with the growth of the previous year, or in the growing season of the current year - with the continuation shoot.

Large upward growing branches extending from the central conductor are called skeletal branches of the first order. Branches growing upwards, extending from the skeletal branches of the first order, are called skeletal branches of the second order, etc.

In addition to branches that grow strongly upwards, there are more horizontal, less durable, weaker branches in the crown. They are called semi-skeletal branches. Semi-skeletal, horizontal branches carry a large number of small overgrowing branches, the bulk of which consists of fruit formations - annelids, up to 3-4 cm long, spears 10-15 cm, fruit twigs from 15 to 25 cm, on which fruiting is formed. Therefore, semi-skeletal branches are also called fruiting branches.

In dense plantings of intensive amateur gardens, the best crown that meets the requirements for the formation of fruit trees is a sparse-tiered, low-volume crown with six skeletal branches, with one branching order, with a large number of semi-skeletal, fruit-bearing branches, with a tree height of 3-3 .5 m

Pruning of fruit trees to form a crown begins from the first year after planting.

On the central conductor, at a height of 50 cm from the soil, 2-3 skeletal branches are selected, close to each other (possibly from adjacent buds), from different sides of the trunk, directing their growth in the future in different directions at an angle of 45 ° to the row line . They form the first tier. For fastening strength, the angle of departure of the skeletal branches from the central conductor should be 45-60 °. When forming young fruit trees, one cannot choose as skeletal branches those that depart at sharp angles (less than 45 °), since such branches form little connective tissue at the point of departure from the trunk. The result is a fragile intergrowth, and under the weight of the crop they break. Obtuse angles of branching (more than 60°) lead to the fact that the branch quickly passes to fruiting and cannot fulfill the role of a skeletal one.

How to prune the branches of fruit trees with an acute angle of departure? In the first tier, they are cut into a ring, and excess skeletal branches with a good outlet angle and branches with angles of more than 60 ° are transferred to fruit-bearing ones and cut into lateral branches.

And how to prune a fruit tree to create a large number of semi-skeletal, fruit-bearing branches? To do this, last year's growth of skeletal branches up to 60 cm long is shortened by pruning by '/3 of its length, and growths of 70 cm or more are cut in half.

Pruning of the skeletal branches of fruit trees is carried out at the same height, the central conductor is cut 25 cm above the skeletal branches. Such subordination ensures the strength of fastening of the skeletal branches with the central conductor, since in this case the diameter of the cross section of the skeletal branch at the place of its discharge is almost two times thinner than the diameter of the cross section of the central conductor.

The following year, after shortening pruning of fruit trees in spring or autumn, in most cases, several vegetative growths and separate overgrowing branches without flower buds are formed on the skeletal branch.

How to properly carry out spring pruning of young fruit trees

During the formative spring pruning of fruit trees, one upward growth of the previous year is selected on each skeletal branch as its continuation and shortened by 1/3 or 1/2, depending on the length of the growth. If there is a competitor - the second growth growing strongly upwards, then it is removed to the ring. The growths of the previous year, growing inside the crown, are removed to the ring. More horizontal growths of the previous year, growing from the skeletal branch to the sides and to the periphery, are left as semi-skeletal.

In order to prune fruit trees correctly, as practice shows, it is necessary to leave horizontal branches for fruiting, located on the central conductor between the skeletal branches of the first tier and subsequent skeletal branches, if they do not interfere with the growth of the main skeletal branches. The fourth skeletal branch on the central conductor is laid 80 cm above the first tier. The distance between the fourth, fifth and sixth skeletal branches is recommended to be 40 cm. Thus, the first three lower skeletal branches located close to each other form a tier, and the next three upper skeletal branches are sparse. From where the crown got its name sparsely-tiered.

Pruning of the upper skeletal branches is carried out in the same way as pruning of the skeletal branches of the first tier. Every year, last year's growth of each skeletal branch up to 60 cm long is cut to '/z of its length, from above. Gains of 70 cm or more are cut in half.

Look at the photo - when pruning fruit trees, all skeletal branches are cut at the same height, and the conductor is always cut 25 cm above all skeletal branches:

After the formation of the crown of six skeletal branches has ended, and the upper skeletal branch has moved away from the central conductor one and a half meters to the side with its upper end, the central conductor is removed for better illumination of the internal parts of the crown, leaving a protective link, which consists of a part of the central conductor, above skeletal branch by 15-20 cm, with a small lateral branch at the upper end.

In the process of pruning fruit trees, the growth of skeletal branches upwards must be directed so that after the formation is completed, the upper end of each skeletal branch is 2.5 m from the central axis of the crown, which ensures the strength of the skeletal branch during fruiting and frees from additional work for the installation of supports for skeletal branches. Skeletal and semi-skeletal branches should not be placed one above the other, as this will make it difficult for the leaves to illuminate the leaves with sunlight from the lower branches.

Formation of the crown of young fruit trees

On the 7-8th year after planting, apple trees are transferred to the fruit-bearing group. The second stage in the life of the tree begins - the period of growth and fruiting. During this period, there is an active growth and increase in yields. It lasts about 3-4 years until the age of 10-11 years of trees. How to prune young fruit trees that are starting to bear fruit?

The formation of the crown by this time has already been completed. The task of cropping comes down to the following main points: carry out sanitary pruning; remove dead and broken branches; keep the crown in a certain volume by cutting branches that grow strongly upwards into lateral branches.

In thickened crowns, in varieties with good shoot-forming ability (for apple trees - Anis and some others), thinning is carried out, that is, some of the extra branches that thicken the crown are removed on a ring or side branch directed to the part of the crown free from branches.

How to cut correctly fruit trees with weak shoot-forming ability? For such crops, further shortening of the shoots is carried out in order to create additional semi-skeletal branches.

The video "Pruning fruit trees" shows how to form the crown of young crops entering the fruiting period:

How to prune branches of medium and old fruit trees (with video)

In the third (middle) period of the life of a fruit tree, which for apple trees in the middle zone lasts from about 11 to 16 - 18 years after planting, sanitary pruning is carried out, broken and dry branches are removed. Thinning is carried out as necessary. They hold a certain volume of the crown by transferring to the side branches. To prune a fruit tree during this period correctly, as an advice experienced gardeners, for the balance of growth and fruiting in the lower part of the crown, branches that hang down and interfere with tillage are removed.

The period of fruiting and attenuation of growth in apple trees in the middle lane lasts from about 17-19 to 25 years after planting. At this time, there is a decrease in the annual growth of shoots to 25 cm or less. This leads to an overload of the tree with a crop, which in turn causes a decrease in winter hardiness, an increase in the frequency of fruiting, and crushing of fruits. How to prune old fruit trees correctly? The main task of this agricultural technique in this period is the rejuvenation of wood, shortening the branches for a strong increase in previous years (more than 30-40 cm), which is cut to 1/3 of its length from above. This restores shoot growth activity.

In addition to rejuvenating pruning, sanitary pruning, thinning and removal of branches hanging down that interfere with tillage are carried out in this period.

In the fifth period of the tree's life, the branches die off. Productivity drops sharply, so the garden is uprooted.

Watch a video on how to prune fruit trees in the third and fourth periods of life:

How to properly prune stone fruit trees

Separately, it is worth telling how to properly prune stone fruit trees, since agricultural practices for these crops have a number of differences from the formation of pome plants.

They are divided into bushy (Lyubskaya; Dessert Volga, etc.) and tree-like (early Amorel, etc.). The fruiting of bushy varieties of cherries prevails on long annual growths. Flower buds are located on the sides of the branches. Fruiting tree varieties cherries are concentrated mainly on bouquet twigs. Due to the good branching of the cherry in the first age periods life of a tree, shortening of increments is limited. Over the years, the crown thins out. When pruning cherries, large wounds should be avoided, which usually leads to gum disease. The height of the cherry stem is given at 40-50 cm. The trees of tree-like cherry varieties form, like an apple tree, according to a sparse-tiered system.

Bushy varieties are also formed according to a sparsely tiered system, but the distance between the tier and the next skeletal branch is given at 40 cm. The same distance is given between single skeletal branches.

And how to prune stone fruit trees during the period of attenuation of shoot growth (less than 25 cm)? At this time, the formation is carried out on the side branches located on the wood of 2-3 years of age.

How to prune frozen fruit trees

Pruning dead trees. In severe winters, fruit trees freeze to one degree or another. It can be strong, medium and weak.

With severe frost damage to the bark, cambium and wood in young apple trees, from 1 to 3 years after planting (dark brown color of the bark, cambium and wood), the aerial part of the tree is cut to the snow cover line. The part of the trunk above the graft, which is under the snow, in this case gives good annual shoots. In the spring of the following year, in order to create a crown, one shoot is selected, cutting it at a height of 90 cm from the soil surface. The rest of the shoots are removed on the ring. On a trunk up to a height of 50 cm, all growth increments are removed. The next year, they begin to lay the first tier of three skeletal branches. Next comes the usual shaping pruning, as described above.

Having a good root system, trees quickly restore the crown, which does not have any traces of freezing.

Young trees with a slight degree of freezing are pruned as usual. Trees from three to eight years old, not overloaded with crops, are rarely exposed to severe frost damage. Apple trees at fruiting age with slight frost damage (light yellow color of wood, light green color cambium) are trimmed as usual. Fruit-bearing trees with severe frost damage are pruned a little later, when a zone with good growth of shoots is designated. Pruning is carried out on a living, well-growing part of the branch.

When to prune fruit trees: the right timing

Many novice gardeners are interested in when they prune fruit trees so that they bear fruit better? The best month for pruning in the middle lane is March - early April, before the start of sap flow, when the danger of severe frosts has passed. Permissible and autumn pruning but with some precautions. It is impossible to inflict large wounds when pruning fruit trees in the fall on the central conductor and on skeletal branches. In this case, if it becomes necessary to remove one or another large branch, then it is not removed to the ring and a protective link is left, consisting of a small lower part of the branch to be removed with a small side branch at the end. In the absence of a close branch, a spike 10-15 cm long is left, which can be cut out in the spring.

Pruning in the fall is basically sanitary pruning: removal of dead, broken, diseased branches, removal of rubbing branches, subject to the described precautions. Rejuvenating pruning of fruit trees during this period is carried out along the periphery of the crown, when large branches are not affected, it can also be carried out during autumn, warm winter days and in spring before sap flow.

Pruning of stone fruits is done in the spring, and wound dressing is done immediately after pruning.

To putty wounds, garden pitch, petrolatum, oil paint, diluted on natural drying oil, are used. When using oil paint diluted on artificial drying oil, bark burns are observed. For the convenience of filling wounds with oil paint, a light stick about 1.5 m long is taken, at the end of which a brush is tied perpendicular to it. oil paint poured into a small bucket. With the help of such a device, you can paint over the wound at any height without climbing a tree. Petrolatum must be warmed up a little during work so that it is soft. Cover wounds with a diameter of 1 cm or more.

Watch the video "Pruning fruit trees in autumn and spring" to better understand how to properly perform these agricultural practices:

fruit tree pruning technology

The technology for pruning fruit trees provides for cutting into a ring, into a protective link, into a bud and into a side branch.

A ring cut is such a cut when it is drawn parallel to the thickening at the base of the branch. The branch is removed, but the thickening remains.

Thickening is a warehouse nutrients necessary for the fastest overgrowing of brine. Incorrect cuts for the ring are such cuts when a thickening is removed along with the branch, which causes a large, long-term wound that does not heal, or when a stump without buds and side branches remains along with the thickening, which often forms a hollow when dried out.

When removing a branch on a ring, you must first file it from below, and then saw it from above. In this case, there will be no scuffing of the bark.

When removing a thick, large branch, the cut is made in two steps: first, the upper half is sawn off, and then the lower.

Pruning to a protective link is used when removing large branches in the fall, when removing the central conductor after the end of shaping, when transferring a thicker branch to a thinner side branch. A cut into a bud of annual growths of an apple tree is best done with a spine about 2 mm higher than the bud left on the growth. A lateral branch with a raised position is cut to the outer night, and branches with a large slope are cut to the inner kidney, which, when the branch is tilted, occupies the upper position.

Equipment for forming pruning of fruit trees

Before pruning fruit trees, you need to acquire necessary inventory. A hand pruner is used to trim shoots and branches. It consists of two parts: one part of the handle with a convex cutting blade at the end and the second with a concave supporting blade. Both parts are connected by a hinge with a nut at the end. With the help of a nut, the gap between the cutting blade and the supporting blade is adjusted. For pruning branches located high in the crown, a delimber is used, which is also called an air pruner. The cutting part of the delimber is driven by a string.

Larger branches are cut with garden files, which come in various shapes. When cutting thorns, use a garden knife.

To cut the branches of fruit trees correctly, as it should be for good growth and fruiting, as well as to increase productivity and cut quality, garden tools must be well sharpened. For pointing and straightening a tool, it is necessary to have a bar, a whetstone, a file, a wiring for files.

The main function of fruit trees in the garden is their fruiting. A rich harvest is possible only if they are pruned, which is carried out in autumn, winter, and more often in spring.

This procedure allows the crown to form rationally so that each shoot receives as much air and light as possible. In addition, pruning contributes to the rehabilitation of trees, protecting them from various diseases that occur during the active growth of plants.

Required Tools

Many gardeners perceive pruning as one of the important elements. proper care behind fruit trees. To carry out this process, special tools are needed:

After purchasing a tool, you must keep it clean and make sure that it is always sharp.

Only in this case no torn cuts, which can easily penetrate a variety of infections and microorganisms. After each trimming procedure, the tool must be cleaned and lubricated with a cloth soaked in machine oil.

When to prune trees

Many gardeners do not pay attention to the timing when fruit trees should be pruned, which is completely wrong.

It is important not to harm the plants, so it is best to do this in the spring. Optimal period - end of February or beginning of March when severe frosts are no longer expected.

Trim first:

• apple tree
• pear.

The remaining fruit trees and shrubs are subjected to this procedure at the end of the first month of spring or the beginning of the second. Cut first pome crops, and only after that - plants with stone fruits.

If the trees are not yet strong, then it is necessary to do this before the sap begins to flow, as this will subsequently weaken them and they will begin to hurt.

If necessary, early June pruned fully grown flowering trees and shrubs that will normally tolerate this procedure even after the end of the circulation of the juice.

How to carry out cutting technology correctly

Pruning of fruit crops is carried out different ways. Let's consider the most basic ones.

Carrying out a cut on the kidney. This method allows you to choose the direction of growth of branches in the direction that the gardener needs. For these purposes, only one-year-old growth shoots are used, on which a bud is chosen that grows in the right direction.

The secateurs are positioned in such a way that its cutting part is near the remaining part of the branch, and not near its cut end. slice performed at an angle so that this kidney remains untouched. If the cut is too sharp, the kidney will lose its supply required amount nutrients and dry out.

Annular cut. In this case, a complete pruning of a branch growing in the wrong direction is carried out. It not only takes food from fruit-bearing shoots, but is completely useless.

With a small thickness of the cut branch, it is best to use a pruner. The cut is carried out along the outer edge of the rings, which form an influx on the bark in the place where the branches are connected.

A cut to form a side branch. It is carried out in the case when a transition of growth from one branch to another is required. In this case, unnecessary thread is completely deleted.. The resulting cut, as it were, continues the left branch, as a result of which the side becomes the main one.

Types of spring pruning of fruit trees

Carrying out such a procedure, the gardener usually pursues completely specific goals. Let's consider the most basic ones.

Regardless of what type of trimming has been done, it is necessary consider age and size fruit plants. With excessive pruning, young shoots begin to grow rapidly, due to which a too dense crown is formed.

The specifics of spring pruning

Many gardeners prune trees at a time before the sap flow has begun. But it is best to carry it out at a time when the juice has not yet begun its movement, but is already fully prepared for this.

In this case, the wounds that the tree will receive as a result of such a procedure, tighten very quickly, since the wood fabric is already ready for this.

If after cutting treat wounds with the help of yellow clay and garden pitch mixed with cow dung, then two weeks after the start of the juice movement, callus will grow at the cut site.

Forbidden to crop fruit crops, which will soon begin their flowering. This is especially true for plants in which flower buds appear only on last year's shoots. Otherwise, not only the flowers will be lost, but the entire crop.

Features of spring pruning of old trees

Old fruit trees, especially pear and apple, have a pronounced periodicity of fruiting and a significant decrease in the crown, which occurs due to the death of skeletal branches.

If carried out light rejuvenation such plants, these manifestations are significantly reduced, which ensures a good harvest in the future. In this case, you should know the rules for pruning old garden trees.

To restore normal condition old plants that are in a very neglected form, it is necessary deep rejuvenation, consisting in pruning dried branches 1-2 meters from the top. Further than two meters it is not recommended to cut very heavily, because the tree may die.

This process should be performed only on fruit branches or growth shoots so as not to leave the trimmed branches completely bare.

If the branches began to die off, and in lower parts fatty shoots appeared, then pruning is carried out up to the tops. The more neglected the tree is, the more they are pruned. With the onset of March, the soil under the cut plants should be well fertilized for the rapid growth of new shoots.

As soon as growth appears, all hemp formations should be finally cut out, and paint cuts oil based.

Rejuvenation of perennial plants should be carried out gradually over many years. In this case, the upper branches and branches are cut much stronger than the lower ones.

Thus, spring pruning of plants in your backyard is a rather painstaking and troublesome business. But thanks to this process trees are better prepared to the fruiting period.

If the branches are not cut, they will begin to break under the weight of the fruit. Therefore, pruning trees in the spring contributes not only to increasing productivity, but also ensures their safety.

Pruning fruit trees in the garden in the photo

Before properly pruning fruit trees, we carefully look at the annual growth and select a bud that looks in the desired direction. Where the kidney is directed - there in the next season the shoot will grow, which will develop from it, in the future it can become a large branch. We hold the secateurs slightly obliquely, so that the lower edge of the cut is at the level of the base of the kidney, and the upper one is at the level of its tip. (If you hold the pruner in a different way, then it can be argued that the kidney will be seriously damaged.) The cutting blade is on the side of the remaining kidney, and the support blade is on the side of the removed part of the branch. The cross section is not a circle, but an ellipse. The cut when pruning fruit trees is done in one decisive movement.

The first common mistake is that the cut is too high and the stump is too big. It will still dry out at least to the nearest kidney, and if pathogens get into the wound, the process can rapidly go further.

Proper bud pruning of fruit trees is a delicate job. Therefore, the quality of the tool and the sharpening of its blades are of particular importance. It directly depends on how quickly the cut will grow.

The second common mistake is cutting too low. The kidney is damaged, or at least the vascular bundles that branch off the stem and go to the kidney. Transport flows are disturbed, with a high probability the kidney will die, and after it - the area of ​​​​the escape located below.

These photos show how to properly prune fruit trees for a bud:

Proper pruning of fruit trees on a ring (with video)

Pruning fruit trees on a ring in the photo
With further growth and development, the boundaries of increments are erased, but with a little practice you will learn to see the annular influxes (photo)

To prune fruit trees as carefully as possible, you need to clearly understand where the rings are on the branch. At the base of the growth of each year (the kidney ring is formed by scars of fallen kidney scales). On young branches, bud rings are clearly visible; growths of the current year usually have a brighter and shiny bark. With further growth and development, the boundaries of increments are erased, but with a little practice you will learn to see ring-shaped influxes (“bark folds”). It is in the annular influx that the wound meristem arises. Wood and bark form from the wound meristem and close the wound at a rate of about 1 cm per year.

If the branch is thin - take a pruner. We have it with a working blade towards us. We hold the branch to be removed with the other hand and slightly move it away from us - with tension, the cut is easier to perform. Rezhem. The manufacturer has already made sure that the pruner blades are correctly adjusted, and the cut goes where it is needed - it will protrude slightly to the touch. It is right. When pruning fruit trees in the garden, don't aim for a "flush" cut, as you would with carpentry and construction work. Beautiful - yes, perhaps, but it will take longer to overgrow the cut, and the big question is whether it will overgrow - you have removed the annular influx “with meat”. We don’t leave stumps either; if necessary, we trim the cut with a garden knife.

If the thickness of the branch is such that you doubt that you can handle it by working with a pruner, we take a hacksaw (I repeat especially for the stronger sex - a hacksaw, not a chainsaw). The branches have a habit of breaking off suddenly, leaving long-healing bark marks. To prevent this from happening, we always start working with a hacksaw from the bottom up. We find an annular influx, try on and start sawing. We saw as much as we can, hold the branch to be removed with our free hand and slightly move it away from us and slightly up so that the hacksaw blade is not clamped in the cut (you will certainly feel if this happens).

Then we move on to the second action - we begin to cut from top to bottom - again along the annular influx. We hold the branch to be sawn off with our free hand. Ideally, the cuts converge to form a single, smooth cut. In practice, this does not always work out, therefore, if necessary, we level the cut surface with a garden knife. Be sure to cover the cut with garden pitch or similar compounds.

Watch the video of pruning fruit trees on the ring:

How to properly prune a fruit tree if the branches are at an acute angle (with photo)

And how to properly cut the branches of fruit trees if they grow at an acute angle? Usually, in a situation where the branch departs at an acute angle, the annular influx is poorly expressed. You will have to remember school geometry lessons to find the cut line (you can use chalk, charcoal, a marker or a bar of soap and make a drawing right on the bark). In many cases, this is also the most convenient line to work with.

1. We outline a line parallel to the branch that remains.
2. We outline a line perpendicular to the branch to be removed.
3. Find the bisector of the resulting angle. This is the optimal cutting line.
4. We carry out the cut, starting to work with a hacksaw from the bottom.
5. We complete the cut with a saw cut from above, trim if necessary and be sure to cover it.

Sharp corners in the crown are very dangerous - these are potential places for unexpected and serious faults. Faults can appear at any moment, they overgrow for a long time and painfully. Risk factors - high yield, heavy rain and wind or even snow, which often accumulates in forks.

Of course, it is necessary to correct such a serious defect as an acute angle as soon as possible.

Often, in mature trees, it is no longer possible to eliminate this deficiency without inflicting large wounds. In this case, the decision is often made to leave the branch - on the principle of choosing the lesser of two evils.

These photos demonstrate how to prune fruit trees if the branches go at an acute angle:

How to properly prune fruit trees for translation

Quite often, it is necessary to delete not the entire branch, but only part of it. Again, this cannot be done anywhere. Pruning to translation is a way to remove the extra part of a branch. With the help of a pruner and a hacksaw, we transfer the growth of the branch to strong branches growing in the direction we need, and remove the excess.

In order to properly prune fruit trees like this, as professionals advise, you need to select a strong side branch on a large branch that grows in the desired direction, and remove everything above this branch. The difference from cutting a branch into a ring is that the cut is made so that its plane is a continuation of the remaining branch.

In most cases, they are transferred to a branch directed outward. If the crown is spreading, then it is usually transferred to a branch growing vertically or slightly inside the crown. Drooping branches (characteristic of such varieties of apple trees as Autumn Striped, or Shtreifling, Pepin Saffron) are transferred to horizontal or slightly upward branches.

Removing large branches from fruit trees

If the branch to be removed is large and thick - as thick as a shovel handle or more - then it is wiser and safer to remove it in parts. You will have to make several cuts, but this will protect both people and the tree from injury, and in the end will be less laborious, although it will take a little longer.

The branches only seem light and airy, in fact, their mass can reach several tens of kilograms. As usual, in order to avoid scuffing the bark, we always start sawing from below.

First we need to shorten the branch. We choose an arbitrary place where it is convenient for you to work, and make a cut from below - about half the diameter of the branch. Then we retreat 4-5 cm closer to the trunk and make the second cut - from above. And then the laws of physics begin to work - the branch neatly breaks off along the lines of cuts and the longitudinal line connecting them under its own weight, only in rare cases does it have to be helped with a slight movement of the hand.

If necessary, repeat the combination of two cuts on next section branches. And finally, the last cut. We carry it out as usual - almost always a large branch is cut into a ring, less often - into a translation.

The photo of pruning fruit trees shows how to remove large branches:

How to do spring pruning of fruit trees (with video)

If the winter was frosty and (or) snowless, and there is a possibility that the tree has received damage, do not rush to spring pruning of fruit trees, as they tend to “heal wounds”. A tree, imperceptibly to the human eye, will strive to restore everything that can be restored, and first of all, this concerns educational and conductive tissues. Therefore, after severe winters, buds often bloom later for two weeks or even a month, when the conducting system of the tree begins to work normally again.

After a harsh winter, pruning of fruit trees in the spring is carried out only after full bud break, and only sanitary. The tree needs to use its energy sparingly, it does not need to heal additional wounds, and any other types of pruning can greatly weaken it and reduce vitality, but the excess and dead must be removed. It is likely that some of the branches will begin to bud, but then they will dry out - this is also normal, the tree itself listens to itself and decides that it is more important for it to save. There is nothing wrong with postponing the planned shaping, rejuvenating or restorative pruning for the next season.

In the most difficult cases, when the scale of damage is large, it will be necessary for several years to be limited to sanitary pruning. However, damaged trees tend to produce a lot of tops, and you can usually start working with them, forming future fruit-bearing branches from them.

Watch the video " spring pruning fruit trees" to better understand how this agricultural technique is performed:

Pruning fruit trees for fruiting in the photo

Tops are powerful vertical shoots that grow from dormant buds on old wood, usually in mid-summer. The number of tops per unit length of a branch largely depends on the variety, but it can also be a signal of trouble - the tree shows that it is sick with something, or it is a reaction to incorrect or too strong pruning, in particular, to an incorrect reduction in crown height. A large number of tops - biological feature pears.

Spinning tops grow quickly, with a “wolfish appetite”, and in a season they can reach 1.5 m or more, while also branching.

Since they are directed vertically, their main task is growth, and fruiting from these strong and powerful branches will have to wait several years. In nature, in this way, the tree rejuvenates, new branches grow, and the old ones gradually die off - especially since they literally find themselves in the shadow of tops.

In most cases, tops greatly thicken the crown, and since they also depart at very sharp angles, they must be decisively removed to the ring. In the first couple of weeks of growth, trimming the tops is not necessary, since they are easy to break with your fingers, a small wound will quickly heal. In the future, to trim the tops for fruiting, you will need a pruner and even a hacksaw.

However, there are cases when it is advisable to leave the tops. For example, if the tree is already at an “advanced” age, and you plan to remove the old branch, and there is a strong and well-located spinning top nearby, then a replacement branch can be grown from it. Only for this it is necessary to limit the growth of the top in height. To do this, you need to either trim the tops of fruit trees for translation, or bend them to a position close to the horizontal in order to stimulate the laying of fruit formations. In subsequent years, with a high probability, the "cultivated" top will produce new shoots directed vertically - they will have to be treated the same way.

When severe damage tops - "source material" for a new crown. If a top is formed next to a large cut, it makes sense to leave it for a year, but be sure to pinch the top - the top draws nutrients and works like a "pump", which accelerates the healing of the wound.

How to properly prune fruit trees and form a crown (with video)

In some cases, especially in the case of trees on a vigorous rootstock, it is necessary to limit the size of the crown. More often it is necessary to limit the height of the crown, less often - the diameter. A common mistake is to prune when forming fruit trees at the same level from the ground, as when cutting a hedge. The result is disappointing and even frightening. Remember Greek myth about Hercules and the Lernaean Hydra, in which two new ones grew in place of a severed head? Approximately the same happens with incorrectly pruned trees, only the heads usually grow more than two, and even on each cut.

When pruning and shaping fruit trees, gardeners limit the height of the crown for several reasons, the main of which are the difficulties of care, pruning and harvesting, and the tree itself spends too much energy on the “delivery” of nutrients - the young are too far apart, actively functioning, roots and shoots.

Reducing the height of the crown during the formation of fruit trees is carried out strictly for translation. The cut is made over a well-placed branch that you decide to keep. In fact, lowering the height of the crown is the same pruning for translation, only it is not the side branch that is cut, but the top.

If a particular variety is prone to the formation of a large number of tops, then after lowering the height of the crown, the tree will try with a vengeance to take up the lost volume. In this case, a “military trick” will help: pruning is divided into two seasons. In the first year, the crown is lowered - but slightly higher than the planned height. The tree will produce a lot of tops, and here you need to be patient (shortening the tops to limit their growth is not forbidden). In the second year, the crown is lowered at the planned height, and the entire top, overgrown with tops, is removed with one cut. In the future, the tree usually “calms down” and begins to grow in the sizes you specified, and only sometimes you will have to remove single tops.

Here you can watch a video on how to properly prune fruit trees to form a beautiful crown:

Tweezing fruit trees and bending back branches

Special techniques are an alternative or addition to pruning. They are not difficult to perform, but you will need to know in detail what you want to get in the end, and have “three-dimensional thinking”, see the crown in volume - the one that is, and the one that, in the end, will be. And, as in the case of pruning - if in doubt, it is better not to do it.

Pinching, she is pinching - removing the top of a growing young shoot - a yearly growth. It is performed when the shoot is still green, and the top is easily broken off with your fingers - in the place where you decided to limit the growth of the shoot. Usually they pinch over the third or fifth true leaf when the shoot is about 15 cm long. Optimal timing pinching - when 2-3 weeks remain before the end of shoot growth, in middle lane it's about the middle of July. A completely similar action is performed when shaping tomatoes, cucumbers and some houseplants - so it is quite possible that you are already familiar with this technique.

It happens that after pinching, axillary buds start to grow. If the shoots growing from them are short - these are future overgrown branches, do not touch them, and long shoots must be pinched again.

If in some place of the tree there is a strong bud from which a branch will develop, but in this place the branch is not needed, then the bud can be blinded - plucked out with your fingers along with weaker dormant buds located at the base. Do not injure the bark, better later blind the dormant buds as they begin to grow.

Thus, it is possible to level the emerging crown of a young tree or use these techniques when forming artificial crown forms. Due to the size of mature trees, these techniques are of limited use.

Growing tops can be broken out with your hands or with a stick with a hook (even a hook available on the farm will do) - since the growth processes are still ongoing, the wound will quickly heal. It is easiest to break out the tops when they do not exceed 1 5 cm in length, then it is better to use a secateurs, since the likelihood of bark scuffing increases. Spinning tops are easily recognizable by their vertical growth and lighter and often larger foliage. After the tops are removed, sometimes new tops develop from the dormant buds in the same place - they will also have to be removed.

If the tree is still young, then it has few branches and, accordingly, leaves. Hard work with pruners will deprive the tree of foliage, and, consequently, reduce the area of ​​​​photosynthesis and worsen nutrition. Therefore, it makes sense to cut unnecessary branches in parts from a young tree, and at first only limit their growth. In addition, the branches coming from the stem contribute to the formation of a trunk that gradually expands downwards, which increases the mechanical strength and stability of the tree.

Bending back branches of fruit trees is in some cases an alternative to removing branches. If only a branch directed at an ugly angle looks in the right direction, you can try to correct the situation. If the angle of departure of the branch from the trunk is very sharp, then it is better not to take risks and cut the branch - with a high probability it will simply break and not bend. The branch is fixed under right angle for one or two seasons. If you bend the branches at the end of growth, when lignification begins, then one season is usually enough.

The fastening should be free, with a margin for branch thickening, therefore, under the ropes and wires, be sure to put soft material- for example, pieces of rubber. Keep in mind that during the season the branch increases in diameter by about a centimeter, and a tightly tightened rope bites into the bark and can literally strangle the branch in one season. For the winter, it is better to remove all fasteners, and return them back in the spring.

If the branch is still young and flexible, but still thick, then at the bottom of the bend, you can make several parallel cuts by about a third of the diameter - this will help bend the branch, and the wounds will quickly heal. Thick branches that have lost their elasticity cannot be bent. It should be noted that if the limb turns out to be “humpbacked”, then in the upper part of the “hump” there will be the best conditions for nourishing the kidneys, and it is here that strong and powerful vertically directed tops will grow. In some cases, this is advisable - you grow a strong shoot in that part of the crown where it is necessary, and then remove part of the "mother" branch by pruning for translation - for a young and strong shoot.

Kerbovka and ringing of fruit trees (with video)

Take a closer look at annual growths - in which direction the kidney looks, the escape will be directed there next season. If in this particular place you want to get a strong - or vice versa, weak - branch, then you can use kerbovka.

Kerbovka of fruit trees is carried out in early spring, before the buds begin to swell. We take a garden knife and select a kidney or twig. All that needs to be done is to carefully cut the bark along with a piece of wood in two arcuate movements so that a “crescent” is formed, which we remove from the cut. If a bud or twig needs to be strengthened, then the “crescent” forms a “surprisedly raised eyebrow” from above. Thus, we block the ascending transport flows of xylem and do not let them go to the upstream kidneys, and the kidney we have chosen receives the best food. If a “crescent” is made under the kidney, resembling a smile from ear to ear, then it will weaken the future branch and limit its growth.

You can see how fruit trees are harvested in the video below:

Ringing fruit trees has a similar effect. To do this, a narrow strip of bark is removed. Attention! A strip of bark, contrary to the name of this technique, should not pass along a ring, but along a spiral, or in two half rings with a small gap - thus, traffic flows will be pinched, and not completely blocked. A full ring of bark will disrupt the conduction system, and everything above the ring will dry out pretty quickly - it's easier, faster and more humane to cut a branch with a pruner. The wound must be covered with garden pitch or wrapped with a film to avoid drying out.

Ringing should not be done on the trunk and skeletal branches, so as not to weaken the tree. It is undesirable to perform banding on a pear and stone fruits, as well as weakened apple trees - there will be more harm than good.

Both in the case of kerbovka and in the case of banding, a narrow strip of removed bark will overgrow rather quickly. Fruit belt - more cottage alternative ringing. It can be made from a strip of soft metal with jagged cutouts along the top and bottom edges - this will prevent the metal from cutting into the bark when the branch thickens. The fruit belt is placed on the branch and fixed with wire - it compresses the bark and makes it difficult for the outflow of photosynthesis products. At any time, the fruit belt can be removed, and this is its advantage over banding.

The video of ringing fruit trees shows how this agricultural technique is performed:

Sometimes the growth in thickness occurs so intensely that the bark does not withstand and bursts. To prevent this from happening, furrowing of the bark is used - in the spring, several furrows are applied with a sharp garden knife, running parallel to the branch, 1-2 mm deep - during the season there will be no trace of them.

Pruning fruit trees to improve fruiting

There are several ways to "persuade" a lazy branch to please you with fruits.

First- limit height growth by pruning fruit trees for fruiting, shortening the branch to a bud or branch pointing in the right direction.

Second way- bend the branch (it is absolutely not necessary, and often undesirable, to a horizontal position, but at least the position of the branch must be made vertical). To do this, you can not resort to pruning fruit trees to improve fruiting, but apply stretch marks - they should fix the branch in the desired position, but not injure the bark. You can hang a load on a branch - our ancestors “threatened” barren trees by hanging an ax or various heavy objects in the crown to “disgrace” a lazy tree (and they always added verbal intimidation in the style of “if there is no fruit, I’ll cut it down!”). Branches took over horizontal position, due to which the balance of plant hormones changed, and fruiting accelerated.

But if the whole tree is “lazy”, then it makes sense to first check how well you take care of it, and also refer to reference books: perhaps you just have one of the old varieties, which are characterized by a late onset of fruiting. So, modern early-growing varieties of apple trees begin to bear fruit at the age of 5-6, and such popular old varieties as Grushovka and Beliy Naliv give their first fruits at the age of 10-12 and even 15 years, being already large trees. In such cases, pruning is needed to form a beautiful and regular crown, but it will not be able to speed up fruiting.

On the other hand, if it is necessary to stimulate the growth of a particular branch of a young tree, it is “pulled up” to the trunk or large branch located above.

This video shows correct pruning fruit trees to improve fruiting: