What to do if the bark of an apple tree is gnawed by hares? How to protect an apple tree from mice and how to restore it in case of severe damage Who can gnaw an apple tree root during the winter.

The bark of an adult tree consists of the inner part - the bast, and the outer - the crust. The bast performs one of the main functions - it conducts nutrients and solutions of mineral salts, ensuring the vital activity of the plant. Here are special cells - sieve, capable of transporting the cytoplasm. If the conductive cells are damaged, this function does not perform and, accordingly, the plant is threatened with death. The outer part consists of dead cells and performs the function of mechanical protection of the apple tree: it prevents entry into inner part fungus, bacteria, pests. Deep cracks in the crust, flaking, mechanical damage literally “exposes” the inside and makes it vulnerable, especially if a hare could gnaw, for example. In addition, a violation of the integrity of the bark leads to a strong loss of moisture in the cambium, which can also result in the drying of the tree.

Damage to the bark significantly increases the risk of infection, and with a circular removal of the bark - around the entire trunk or branch, leads to the death of the apple tree. Therefore, it is so important to protect trees from rodents in winter time when hunger makes hares encroach on orchards.

How to treat and how to cover

Hares and goats are the main threat to the garden. Voles also severely damage the bark, but, as a rule, in a smaller area and do not reach the cambium. Hares tear off the bark with ribbons, that is, they cause maximum damage.

In the first place in terms of attractiveness for hares are apricots, then apple trees and cherries. Least of all they like a pear. Young apple trees are the worst: their peel is still tender and it is easy for hares to get to the juicy bast.

Trees are treated depending on the severity of the damage. If the bark is torn off small area and the cambium - the layer between the bark and the wood, is not damaged, then it is not difficult to save the apple tree.

If the tree was damaged by grafting, then it will have to be re-grafted, unless of course it is still alive.

The main thing is not to postpone treatment and carry out resuscitation before the onset of spring heat and the start of sap flow. If the bark is damaged around the entire trunk, much more radical measures must be taken.

The earlier damage is detected, the greater the chance of saving the tree.

Disinfection of damaged areas

If the damaged area occupies no more than half the diameter of the trunk, then saving the tree is quite simple. And it doesn’t even matter how dry the cambium is: under the surviving bark, its layers are still preserved.

• Damage as early as possible, immediately after detection, is smeared with a mixture of clay and cow dung in equal proportions or garden pitch. You can use ready-made preparations, for example, the antibacterial composition "Rannet". From above the trunk is wrapped plastic wrap, in case the cambium still survived, but also to prevent moisture loss. The film does not let air or water through, and these are exactly the conditions that are needed for healing.

• If the cambium has survived, then by the summer a thin, tender bark forms at the site of the wound. In summer, the damage is inspected, if necessary, cleaned of dead tissue, and then covered with pitch again and wrapped with a film. As a rule, such a tree even bears fruit, but the yield is small.
• If the cambium is dry, healing takes longer. The edges of the site will gradually converge until they close, and then overgrown with bark. In this case, the wound should be looked after: periodically, scratches are applied along the edge of the growing layer to stimulate the growth of new tissue, and covered with pitch. As a result, a dense scar should remain on the trunk of the apple tree.
• If the damage occupies more than half of the diameter, the method of treatment is determined in the spring. When a wound is found, that is, even in winter, the trunk is wrapped very tightly with thin polyethylene, and preferably with adhesive tape, since the latter fits better even to uneven surface. The air and moisture resistant coating provides temporary protection and prevents moisture loss. From above, the trunk is wrapped with roofing material.

Read how to close a hollow in an apple tree.

In the spring, the bandage is removed and the damage is examined. If the cambium did not have time to dry, then the wound, most likely, has already begun to heal. If the cambium is dry, more drastic measures must be taken.

Artificial bark: restore trunk

In place of the destroyed bark, you can engraft a new one.

The tool consists of substances that "pacify" the damage on the trunk or branch of the tree.

This method is not widely used, as it requires a lot of experience and does not guarantee success. The technology seems quite simple, but here it is important to ensure the tightness of the bark.

How to deal with bark beetle on an apple tree will tell.

Engraftment is possible only if the cambium is not dry. In the spring, when the protective bandage is removed, a whitish wet layer should be visible. In its absence, engraftment is impossible.

1. The bark is cut from a thick branch of the same plant or another apple tree of the same variety. use sharp knife and try not to damage the cambium on the other tree.
2. The dimensions of the "patch" should be 10 cm wider than the wound left by the hares.
3. The bark is applied to damaged area so that it overlaps the area by 5 cm above and below.
4. Tape the bark with electrical tape or tape, very tightly.
5. For the winter, the electrical tape is removed and the apple tree is protected in the usual way.

Such an apple tree must be carefully looked after: watered, produced and. The ovary this year is better to remove completely.

Grafting cuttings with a bridge

A more time-consuming method of saving a tree, but ensuring survival in 90% of cases. Instead of the dead bark, the transportation function nutrients, take on cuttings. The latter are rods 15 cm longer than the width of the wound. Cuttings are cut in early spring before the start of sap flow. It is best to use the young shoots of the plant itself. Another apple tree, and even another fruit tree, is quite suitable, especially if the leaves on it bloom earlier than on the apple tree.

Grafting with bridges is carried out in cases where the bark is damaged along the entire trunk or the wound occupies more than half the diameter. This is a very reliable method.

In early spring, the bandage is removed, making sure that the cambium is dry - if not, then the tree will heal the wound itself. The site is cleaned to clean wood, on the surviving bark, the irregularities remaining from the teeth of the rodent are cut off.

1. The trunk is treated with a 3% solution blue vitriol- it will prevent the reproduction of fungi.
2. Cut from the same tree or from a suitable thin last year's shoots and cut into equal segments.
3. Cuttings on both sides are cut to an acute angle.
4. T-shaped incisions are made on the bark under the damage and on top.
5. Cuttings are inserted into the incisions, as deep as possible.
6. T-shaped cuts, already with bridges, are smeared with garden pitch and wrapped very tightly with polyethylene.

O vitriol for apple trees in the spring will tell.

Over time, the shoots grow together with the wood and act as a conductor of juices.

If the tree has partially preserved its own bark or cambium, then the wound is likely to heal, although this will take a couple of years.

The older the apple tree, the more bridges you need. For young tree 2-3 vaccinations are enough, for the old one it will take at least 5-8.

Cutting down on the reverse growth of an apple tree

Most radical method when the damage is so great that it is not possible to save the apple tree. In this case, the tree is cut down above the lowest kidney. you need garden pitch to prevent the trunk from growing. If the roots of the plant are strong enough, then next year they will give new shoots and the apple tree will begin to grow again.

Sawing is carried out before the start of sap flow.

How to protect yourself from hares in winter

Protecting apple trees is much easier than reanimating after damage. The recommendations are simple and easy to follow.

1. • most famous and old method- lime. It has a disinfecting effect, and repels rodents, not only hares, but also mice.
   • Trunks of apple trees for the winter can be wrapped with polyethylene or roofing material. Such material is too tough for rodents. In the spring, the winding is immediately removed to prevent overheating of the barrel.
   • On young trees with a small trunk diameter, they put on and fix the cut plastic bottles. During thaws, they should also be removed, as water accumulates in them, which provokes the trunk to warm up.
   • Rodents are afraid of certain smells. Naphthalene tablets are placed in plastic bottles.
   • At the end of autumn, the bark of an apple tree is treated with a 3% solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture- rodents do not tolerate it.
   • Repels hares and a solution of sanlizol. Soaked in it sawdust and mulch them trunk circle.
   • As a mechanical protection, gardeners use chain-link nets with small cells. The mesh is laid loosely and creates a barrier.

If the mesh is installed far enough - the diameter of the circle is 70 cm, then such a shelter in the spring can not be removed. It does not prevent the tree from growing.

1. • The same role is played by spruce and pine branches, fixed on the trunk with needles down.
   • Insulation, which is necessary for apple trees that do not tolerate frost, also protects the trees. Use for this any nonwoven fabric. According to amateur gardeners the best way- nylon tights, since the latter allow air and light to pass through, and during a thaw, the bandage can not be removed, unlike a plastic film.

When to remove shelter from apple trees in the spring will tell.

Video

This video will tell you how to save a fruit tree after being damaged by rodents.

findings

1. Damage to the bark (if it was eaten / eaten / eaten / gnawed or gnawed by rodents) is very dangerous for the apple tree. At the same time, the conducting cells die and the sap flow stops. Accordingly, the tree dries up and dies.
2. The method of treatment (how to restore and how to help) and its success depends on the severity of the wound. If the cambium is preserved, the tree will certainly heal. If not, saving him is much more difficult.
3. If the bark on the trunk is only partially destroyed, you can save the apple tree with the help of medical dressings.
4. With strong, especially circular, damage, the tree can be saved only by radical methods. Best result provides grafting with bridges from cuttings of the same apple tree.
5. It is much easier to prevent trunk nibbling than to treat a tree later. To scare away hares, the most different methods both mechanical and chemical.

What to do if mice gnawed on the bark of an apple tree read.

In spring, summer and autumn, uninvited guests in the "face" of wild animals usually do not enter apple orchards, they have enough food in the forests and meadows. But with the onset of cold weather, the chances for the visit of wild animals increase many times over, hunger, as you know, is not an aunt. In order for the apple trees to survive intact until spring, they are protected by all sorts of improvised means.

Uninvited guests in the apple orchard

Some visitors may never be seen with their own eyes, but traces of their stay are immediately evident. As a rule, this happens in the spring: the snow melts, tree trunks are exposed, on which the four-legged visitors left their terrible “autographs”.

Mice

Vole mice are regulars orchard in the winter season. Only in spring, their presence is betrayed by the mutilated bark of trees, primarily apple trees. The largest representative of voles among them is the water vole, its body length varies from 12 to 20 cm. Representatives of other species are smaller, on average from 8 to 12 cm. Mice are very prolific, if no measures are taken, any vegetation in the garden or in garden may be in danger of destruction. Voles bring offspring several times a year. There are from 4–5 to 14 mice in a litter, and in some years the number of rodents reaches 2 thousand individuals per 1 ha. Animals arrange a system of passages underground and on its surface. The entrances to the ground nests are perfectly camouflaged, making it completely impossible to see them.

Damage to apple trees from mice is terrible because it is often detected late. Bare sections of the trunk become vulnerable to winter frosts, especially if they are interspersed with thaws. If the garden is located near the house, you can periodically check whether the bark is intact, trample down the snow in the trunk circles, blocking the movement of rodents. But it is not always possible to get to a dacha outside the city at the right time, and it is impossible to guess this very moment. Rodents sharpen the pliable bark of young and middle-aged apple trees from the root collar and up the trunk. In winter, they tunnel under the snow, raking it with their front paws and head. The higher the snowdrifts, the higher the damage will be, up to the skeletal branches. It also gets from sharp mouse incisors the roots of apple trees located closer to the surface of the earth, buried seedlings and cuttings.

Photo gallery: species of vole mice that gnaw on apple trees

The hare's teeth are powerful and grow throughout life.

An effective protection against hares is a net or any other material wrapped around the trunk to a height of at least 1.5 m. Why so high? The body length of the white hare is 45–47 cm, the hare is 55–67 cm. Add the length here hind legs, equal to almost the length of the body (and the hare can stand "on tiptoe", significantly increasing in height). The higher the snowdrift, the higher the bark is damaged.

Standing on its hind legs, the hare significantly increases in height and spoils trees to a height of more than 1 meter.

By the way, I prepared apple trees in the fall, wrapping the bases of the trunks with nylon tights, but this year there was more snow than usual, and the hares gnawed the trunks above the wrapped one.

http://www.websad.ru/archdis.php?code=570534

For me, worse than mice and hares, there is no more harmful creature than an ordinary domestic goat- the most vicious garden pest with early spring until late autumn. These insidious creatures with amazing insight find the slightest loopholes to get to the coveted plants. From my sad experience, I recall a November day, when four neighbors' goats, left unattended by the hostess, entered my front garden through an ajar gate (but that's another story). In a few minutes they managed to taste rose bushes with huge thorns, lilacs and my favorite Golden Delicious. Everything was eaten, gnawed and broken off with barbaric cruelty, and my spiritual experiences at that moment defied description. In the future, only a strong high fence and a gate closed with a bolt protected my plantings from the encroachments of horned beasts.

Goats seem to be able to climb any tree.

How to protect the garden from mice and hares

It will not work to remove mice from the site in any one way - it is advisable to combine preventive or proactive measures with "power" methods.

Prevention of the appearance of mice

Cleanliness must be observed in the territory of the garden and vegetable garden:

• burn cuttings of branches;
• dispose of the weeds left after weeding;
• bury or store in compost heap dry leaves, food residues;
• uproot stumps.

There is no need to arrange a warehouse for building materials in the garden, especially wooden ones. Because the smallest gap between the boards or beams can be chosen by a miniature animal under the "house".

Mice gnaw not only on tree trunks, but also get to the roots.

To scare away mice, plants are used with a specific aroma that is unpleasant for the mouse's sense of smell:

• tops of black root, tomato, branches of black elderberry. This material is used to cover the near-stem circle or tie the trunk;
• autumn colchicum (colchicum, autumn crocus or autumn). It grows in the southern and western parts of Russia, blooms in August - September. Ground seeds of the plant (20 g) are mixed with 1 kg of cereal and laid out in places where mice appear;
• wild rosemary. The plant has a pronounced aroma, as they say, for an amateur. Mice can't stand it. Ledum leaves clog the entrance to the mink;
• thuja, spruce. An infusion is prepared: 0.5 kg of plant branches are poured into 10 liters of boiling water. Minks are poured with the resulting fragrant liquid. spruce branches tops down tie the trunk of an apple tree;
• burdock heads. Green or mature prickly balls are laid out at the entrance to the mink;
• daffodils. Mice do not like flower bulbs, so graceful flower can act not only as a garden decoration, but also as a kind of barrier for rodents;
• spurge rank - exotic plant for Middle lane, but typical in Transcaucasia and Krasnodar Territory. Sprigs of milkweed are poisonous, they are twisted into a ball and stuck into a mink, the mice then leave;
• celandine - crushed, used as mulch both in the near-stem circle of an apple tree and in the beds.

Mice are repelled by the scent of some plants or the toxic substances they contain.

In my front garden there is a four-year-old dwarf apple tree. Her bark is excellent condition from top to bottom, because the near-trunk circle is bordered by luxurious bushes of daffodils. I think the mice got into the habit of avoiding this place.

Beautiful protection from daffodils

Lures and poisons

Made specifically for mice different kind baits, for example, Euroguard, Anti-rat, Ratobor, Pied Piper, Nutcracker. The main inconvenience of their use is that, in addition to mice, birds, hedgehogs, a beloved cat or, God forbid, curious little children can get poisoned. It is necessary to regularly check and remove the corpses of rodents, simultaneously improving the art of masking the poison from others. Baits prepared at home may not have such a lethal effect, but are harmless to people:

• flour, sugar, alabaster or cement, taken in equal quantities;
• black bread and alabaster or plaster in a ratio of 1: 1.

The ingredients are mixed with dry hands so that alabaster and other additives do not harden ahead of time. The mass is rolled into small balls, folded into paper bags and pushed into the mink. Thus, mice gnaw on the bait underground, and indigestible food will be inaccessible to living creatures on the surface. Once in the body of an animal, alabaster, gypsum or cement hardens and clogs gastrointestinal tract, the mouse dies.

The use of poisoned baits is associated with some risk to other animals and children.

Means of protection from improvised materials

An excellent protection for apple tree trunks from mouse teeth is a mesh - special or bought at a building materials store. The main thing is that the cells are small. The fact is that the bones of the mouse are movable, thanks to which it can fold, like a transformer, and penetrate into small holes. The lower edge of the mesh fence is dug into the ground by 10–20 cm so that the mice do not damage the root collar and roots located near the surface of the earth.

Video: how to use the net to protect the apple tree

There are two traditional uses for the grid:

For winding the barrel from mice and hares, a variety of materials are used:

• kraft paper - it is used to make bags for dry building mixtures. It is stronger than usual, keeps its shape well, does not get wet for a long time;
• corrugated tube or spiral binding - from a series of insulating materials for electrical cables. The existing longitudinal or spiral cut greatly facilitates the task of "dressing" the trunk. Insulating tubes are produced in different diameters, from which a suitable one is selected for protecting skeletal branches;

  Corrugated tube and spiral cable tie are easy to put on the tree

• insulation for water pipes- also has a longitudinal section, is made of a fairly rigid material, so it keeps its shape well, does not fall off the trunk, but it is better to grab it with wire or a synthetic cord;

  Inside the insulation for water pipes, the central conductor of the apple tree is warm and safe

• nylon tights - although they fit snugly to the trunk, get wet and covered with ice, I have never heard that the bark under them gets wet or snotty;

  Under a huge thickness of snow, the areas wrapped in stockings survived, in the same place where the stocking was not enough, mice gnawed the bark

• bags of sugar or flour. A huge plus of the non-woven material from which these bags are made lies in its water-repellent properties and breathability. Light color the canvas ensures that during an accidental thaw the bark under it does not overheat (in the spring such a strapping can replace whitewashing);
• lutrasil garden bandage - available in widths from 8 to 12 cm, sold in specialized stores. For a thick trunk, a wide bandage is taken, for a thin one, a narrow one. It is convenient to wrap thin branches with narrow strips, covering flower buds at the same time. A garden bandage will help save on the purchase of a mesh if it is necessary to protect a tree with a low trunk and wide-spread skeletal branches located at a small height from the ground;

  With the help of a garden bandage, an apple tree quickly turns into a pretty mummy, inaccessible to voles and hares.

• plastic bottles. The top is cut off from them so that a little narrowed part remains, and the bottom, cut along, put on the trunk. The first bottle with its narrowed part is directed downwards, each subsequent bottle enters the previous one with its narrowed part. It looks like an insulating tube. The structure is fastened with tape or wire;

  There should be free space between the barrel and the body of the plastic bottle.

• tying the trunk with spruce paws or reeds.

  An apple tree in a spruce "fur coat" looks coquettish

A good result is the use of noise devices. On the branches hang plastic bottles close to each other or cans. Swaying and colliding, they make a noise that scares away hares. Although here are some things that confuse me:

• Will there always be wind for the noise system to work;
• How soon completely starved hares adapt to safe noise.

Before frost, apple trees are whitened slaked lime. Whitewashing is applied only to trees with mature bark, on which a characteristic pattern of cracks and scales has already appeared. This can also be done during an unexpected thaw, as long as the air temperature is above 0 °C. This technique allows you to kill two birds with one stone (sorry for the pun):

1. Hares do not use whitewashed bark;
2. Ice does not form on whitewash from slaked lime.

Copper sulphate, which is tasteless for hares, is also added to the whitewash for the trunk.

And I also read somewhere that you need to whitewash the trunks with blue vitriol. I whitened it, but it is clear that the hares still coveted these trunks. Apparently, they tasted it, quickly realized that they would not eat such muck, and left it.

Adonis

http://www.sadiba.com.ua/forum/archive/index.php/t-12351.html

Treatment of a gnawed apple tree

A timely identified bite of a small area is covered with clay mixed with manure or garden pitch. The addition of heteroauxin does not interfere. The mixture is covered with a bare area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe trunk, wrapped with a cloth made of natural material, wrapped with foil on top. By autumn, the site of the lesion should be overgrown with callus. For the winter, such trees are insulated with special care, because the newly formed layer is not as strong as the rest of the bark, and can freeze.

If the damage is large or done in a circle, there are only two ways to save the tree - bridge grafting or approaching. The damaged place is temporarily smeared with drying oil, garden pitch or oil paint until sap flow occurs and vaccination can be carried out. While the cold is standing and the buds are sleeping, cuttings are prepared for grafting, which are stored in a cool place.

Bridge grafting

1. The area without bark is carefully cleaned with a knife to healthy wood, wiped with a damp cloth. When the surface is slightly dry, cover the entire affected area with garden pitch, because after grafting it will be difficult to crawl under the cutting to apply putty. Tools - a knife, secateurs, disinfected with alcohol.

   The affected area is cleaned with a knife to healthy wood

2. The edges of the bark are trimmed with a knife.

   The uneven edges of the gnawed bark are leveled with a knife

3. Opposite incisions are made on the upper and lower edges of the bark and the bark is pushed aside with the tip of a knife. The number of cuts depends on the number of cuttings to be grafted. If the bark is gnawed by a ring, graft 3, 4, 6 or more cuttings, depending on the thickness of the trunk. Stamps with a diameter of up to 6 cm are enough to coat with garden pitch and wrap with a garden bandage.

   

Instruction

If the bark of an apple tree is slightly gnawed by mice or hares, wrap the damaged area with plastic wrap. This should be done immediately after damage is detected, in this case time plays a very important role.

Cover the damage on the bark, having a width of no more than half the diameter of the apple tree. To do this, mix cow dung half with garden pitch or clay. Apply the resulting mass to the bark at the site of damage, tie a plastic wrap on top and cover with roofing material to eliminate negative impact light and heat.

Examine the damage at the beginning of summer, if necessary, clean the wound of dead tissue, cover again and wrap with film and roofing material.
If the cambium (thin succulent layer between the bark and wood) has died, healing will take a very long time - for several years. Take care of such damage in the following way: apply scratches along the edge of growing living tissues, this will stimulate their growth, after that you need to cover the wound with pitch.

If more than half of the trunk diameter is damaged, coat these places with pitch or wrap with stretch film. Such a film adheres tightly to the surface, stretches well, creates an air- and moisture-proof coating. Cover it with ruberoid on top. If measures are taken in time, and the cambium is preserved, in this case the bark will grow and the tree will survive.

In case of large damage by hares and mice to the tree trunk, apply a radical method of saving the apple tree, which is called "cutting the trunk to grow back." Cut off the trunk above the lowest bud. This must be done before the moment when the buds of the apple tree begin to bloom, that is, before the juices begin to move along the trunk. At the same time, damage to the remaining kidney should not be allowed.

Coat the cut with a special garden pitch so that the remaining stump does not grow in the spring. With a strong root system being saved, a new shoot will appear on the tree, which will develop rapidly. If the apple tree damaged by hares is too young, and its roots are not sufficiently developed, it is useless to cut down its trunk for reverse growth.

Diseases of apple and pear trees are quite common, causing them irreparable damage. Sick trees lose their leaves, and their fruits are deformed and become unusable. In addition, apple and pear trees lose their attractive appearance and a significant part of the resistance to the cold season. What treatment will save the trees from such diseases?

Types of fruit diseases

Among fruit trees the most common disease is scab, which is a fungal disease that affects apple and pear trees. Its main ones are a brown coating on the leaves, which soon begin to dry out and fall off. The fruits stop developing, stop growing and become covered with black and gray spots. The stalks and flowers of trees are also affected.

Another fungal is powdery mildew, which affects almost all parts of apple and pear trees - leaves, inflorescences, shoots and bark. It manifests itself as an off-white, powdery coating, which subsequently acquires a brown color with small black patches. Affected leaves and inflorescences dry out, shoots stop growing, and fruits lose their ability to set.

Powdery mildew mycelium is usually found in diseased shoots, spending the entire cold period of the year.

Cytosporosis of fruit trees fungal disease, affecting their bark and causing its partial drying. The main symptoms of cytosporosis are dark ulcers on the bark of apple and pear trees, which grow rapidly and become brown-red. As a result, the bark and individual branches die off, and the tree itself may die. The disease is complicated by frost, poor maintenance, or dry/waterlogged soil.

apple and pear diseases

In order to prevent the development of scab, in the spring the trees must be treated with a solution of the drug "Topaz", which is diluted at the rate of 2 milliliters per 10 liters of water. At the first stage, the trees are processed in the phase of leafing out, and at the second - after flowering.

The second treatment is carried out with a solution of the preparation "Colloidal Sulfur" at the rate of 80 grams per 10 liters of water.

Trees that are sick powdery mildew, also need to be processed in the spring, at the time of leaf blooming. When processing, Topaz or Skor preparations are used (2 milliliters per 10 liters of water). After flowering, the trees are treated with the Hom preparation at the rate of 40 grams of the preparation per 10 liters of water, and after harvesting, copper sulphate and liquid soap(50 grams and 20 grams per 10 liters of water, respectively).

Cytosporosis is treated in the spring when the buds swell (and then after flowering) with a Hom solution (40 grams per 10 liters of water), at an air temperature of at least 15 degrees. Before flowering, trees should be sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate (50 grams of the substance per 10 liters of water).