When planting vegetables and trees, their features are taken into account - plant growth in the sun or in the shade, abundant or moderate watering, differences in root systems. However, not everyone knows that when planting crops in the garden, their compatibility with each other should be taken into account. Summer residents who grow vegetables know that productivity depends not only on favorable conditions and care for plants, but also on their location in the beds. Adhering to the rules of compatibility of garden crops, even beginners will be able to rationally use the land and get a good harvest.
If the neighbors in the garden are chosen incorrectly, this can cause poor growth and development of crops, accumulation of insects and the formation of fungus due to excessive watering. The correct placement of plants in the beds, on the contrary, has a beneficial effect on their growth, and also makes them more resistant to diseases.
The principle of mixed beds is used by farmers and amateurs who grow organic vegetables, fruits and berries, since the correct compatibility of vegetables during planting helps to repel pests, and there is no need to use chemicals. Properly selected neighborhood and rational use of the garden plot can increase productivity up to 20%.
Mixed landings are not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. Before proceeding with sowing, the plants must be divided into groups, taking into account the intensity of watering and lighting, the need for fertilizer. It is recommended to draw up a site plan with the distribution of plants. Adhering to the rules of compatibility of vegetables, the gardener will receive the following benefits:
- saving land area;
- reduction in the incidence of disease;
- plants attract less harmful insects;
- applying less fertilizer;
- increase in yield and taste of fruits.
Rules and table of compatibility of vegetables with other crops in the garden
When planning a scheme for the joint planting of vegetables, herbs, flowers, shrubs and trees, it is possible not only to increase the yield and quality of fruits, but also to create a beautiful garden bed. When distributing crops in the neighborhood, the following rules must be taken into account:
- "neighbors" should have similar requirements for light and moisture, acidity and soil structure, as well as the same rate of development and fruit ripening period;
- it is unacceptable that the width of the beds be less than 1 meter;
- the garden is divided into several sections (in the middle part tall plants are planted, the fruits of which ripen the longest - tomatoes, peppers, cabbage);
- closer to the borders, early-ripening plant species are placed - most often these are greens and herbs, this place is also suitable for grapes and strawberries;
- in order for the soil to remain fertile, it is important to observe the crop rotation rule (planting plants several times in a row on the same soil is unacceptable);
- the correct neighborhood provides for the distribution of vegetables in the beds, taking into account their root system, the most optimal option is when crops with small and more developed roots alternate.
A table will help you plan what and where to plant, taking into account the compatibility of plants. The table shows the most common vegetables.
Vegetable good compatibility Poor Compatibility eggplant Peas, potatoes Onions, tomatoes, fennel, garlic Peas Eggplants, potatoes, corn, cucumbers, carrots, radishes, beans Onions, garlic, tomatoes Daikon Zucchini, carrots, cucumbers, tomatoes, beets, spinach, pumpkin Peas, strawberries, cabbage Cabbage Potato, onion, lettuce, beetroot, celery, dill Strawberries, beans Potato Eggplant, peas, cabbage, onion, corn, parsley, lettuce, beets, horseradish, beans, garlic, radish Cucumbers, tomatoes, celery, fennel Onion Black currants, garden strawberries, carrots, radishes, cucumbers, watercress, spinach Beans, peas, beans, cabbage Carrot Peas, onions, tomatoes Fennel cucumbers Peas, dill, beans, lettuce, cabbage Potatoes, tomatoes Pepper Onions, lettuce, beets, tomatoes, basil, eggplant Peas, cucumbers, celery, beans Parsley Onions, lettuce, peas, beans, tomatoes, radishes, beans Carrots, beets, celery, horseradish tomatoes Green crops, cabbage, onions, gooseberries, asparagus, beans Potatoes, kohlrabi, cucumbers, fennel Salad Cabbage, garden strawberries, carrots, cucumbers, onions, radishes, spinach, peas Tomatoes, pumpkin, beans, beets Beet Cabbage, onion, lettuce, beans Fennel With fruit and other trees
Planting shrubs, berries and vegetables in the aisles of a young garden is not recommended. This is due to the fact that plants, and especially cultures from the nightshade family, take all the nutrients from the soil.
If the trees have long been rooted and delight the owners with their fruits, you can sow the seeds of parsley, cilantro, dill, radish and lettuce under them. These cultures do not harm their neighbors and ripen in the shortest possible time, in addition, in the shade, the greens remain juicy for a long time.
You can also choose perennial plants - strawberries, wild garlic, dzhusai, mustard, mint, lemon balm.
In the middle of summer, seeds of Beijing cabbage, radish and radish are sown in the shade of trees. Beans feel good under the crown of a tree. Thanks to it, the soil is enriched with nitrogen, which in turn improves yields.
Under old trees, some gardeners successfully grow cucumbers, lagenaria, pumpkins and zucchini. Plants curl beautifully along the trunk, and thanks to the fertile soil they give a good harvest.
Regarding tomatoes, the opinions of experts differ - some believe that the plant will stretch due to insufficient lighting, others say the opposite, having gathered a good harvest under a tree. Gardeners also assure that planting is mutually beneficial for both tomatoes and fruit trees, since the latter are protected from the codling moth, and tomatoes are less likely to get late blight.
Wanting to decorate the garden with roses, you should know that planting them next to a plum, pear and apple tree is not recommended. Greens and vegetables will not grow well under a walnut. It is also worth considering that tomatoes and potatoes are bad neighbors for apricots.
With flowers and herbs
Vegetables are not very fond of being next to marigolds, while being close to marigolds is favorable. They protect plants from nematodes and make the beds beautiful. Calendula improves the quality of the soil, and pests are afraid of it. Both plants are planted near cucumbers, carrots and potatoes. It is best to sow marigolds and zinnia near tomatoes.
From aphids, whites and snails, nasturtiums will help. Flowers are sown between rows or arbitrarily close to garden crops. Daffodils and tulips are planted near carrots.
Herbs such as chamomile, tansy, yarrow and wormwood protect plants from pests. Gardeners love nasturtium because it resists pests and weeds, and also pleases with its beauty until late autumn. In addition, it can be eaten by adding it to salads. Best of all, she gets along with potatoes and cabbage. Garlic planted with roses repels beetles.
Also edible plants include borage, or borage. It repels pests, loosens the ground, removes excess moisture and blooms very beautifully throughout the summer, attracting pollinating insects.
with bushes
In the garden near the shrubs, you can sow greens. Gooseberries, raspberries and other berry bushes do well near fruit trees, provided that they do not shade them too much.
The combined plantings of raspberries and bush beans are characterized by a mutual beneficial effect, but plants will not like the neighborhood of raspberries and blackberries. To protect the bushes from the codling moth, sow tarragon or tarragon.
It is recommended to sow lupins, hyssop, onions, garlic near grapes, but planting cabbage and hazelnuts leads to the death of a young vine. Near it you can place currants, raspberries, radishes, legumes, beets, cucumbers. It should be borne in mind that grapes planted near the garden with berries have a special taste. The most favorable is its proximity to strawberries - so the grapes are large and sweet.
Gooseberries get along well with red currants, they do not compete for space and do not attract common pests. You can also plant lemon balm, mint, basil and sage with gooseberries - herbs repel sawfly, aphids and moths. For the same purpose, tomatoes are planted near the gooseberries. An unfavorable neighbor is onions. Raspberries and gooseberries can be planted under a plum tree.
- eggplants are best placed near onions, beans, spinach, thyme;
- it is better to plant onions, herbs, tomatoes, carrots, kohlrabi, zucchini near hot peppers;
- strawberries and parsley located nearby feel good;
- cucumbers are friends with most plants, especially beans, zucchini, celery, garlic, onions, spinach;
- the legume family gets along well with peas, parsley, cucumbers, corn, potatoes;
- beets grow well near strawberries and onions;
- carrots are advised to plant in the garden with onions, garlic, radishes;
- cabbage gets along on the same bed with celery, dill, rosemary, beans;
- near strawberries, it is better to plant sorrel, carrots, lettuce, radishes, radishes, spinach;
- it is better to plant garlic next to celery, carrots, roses, gladioli;
- sweet peppers are planted on the same bed with basil, okra, beets, fennel;
- tomatoes prefer to grow separately, and not together with other vegetables, but not against the neighborhood with onions, beets, corn;
- pumpkin gets along with legumes, radishes;
- loves potatoes if nasturtium, marigolds, beans, cilantro are located nearby;
- excellent companions for onions are carrots, beets and all types of melons.
Examples of successful plant combinations
When drawing up a plan of beds, taking into account the principle of joint planting of vegetable crops, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the options for successful combinations. Examples of good neighborliness with good fertility and a minimum incidence rate:
- alternating pumpkin, corn, legumes and nasturtium;
- a bed of radishes, lettuce, kohlrabi, spinach, early potatoes;
- alternating rows of carrots, parsley, dill;
- plot with legumes, tomatoes, cilantro, carrots, marigolds;
- a bed of cucumbers, basil and tomatoes;
- rows of potatoes, cabbage, spinach, beans, corn.
What plants in the garden and garden are better not to plant next to each other?
Improper placement of vegetables and trees can cause reduced yields or attract insects. In order not to be mistaken, gardeners are advised to familiarize themselves with crops that are poorly combined with each other:
- green onions should not be planted next to garlic;
- near cucumbers, you should not plant turnips, tomatoes, asparagus, rhubarb, zucchini;
- garlic should not be planted near peas, beans, soybeans, peanuts;
- for gooseberries, blackcurrant is a bad companion;
- juniper, cherry cannot be placed together with a pear;
- mint, basil and cilantro are bad for the growth of garlic;
- it is not recommended to plant apricots, lilacs, cherries, cherries, barberries next to the apple tree;
- cherry feels bad near currants;
- raspberries and strawberries planted nearby become a favorable environment for weevils.
Any gardener, faced with a lack of space, poor germination or crop yields, the dominance of diseases or pests, tries to optimize the environmental conditions, not even assuming that most of these problems can be solved in a much simpler way. So, if instead of planting vegetables by species groups, mixed plantings of vegetables are used, you can not only rationalize the use of land, but also provide some plants with protection from weeds and pests, others with immunity from diseases, a third with a nutrient medium, and a fourth with improved taste.
But, before mixing all the available cultures, it is necessary to clearly understand under what conditions how certain types of plants behave, otherwise the result may be completely opposite to what is expected. Here are some basic rules, the observance of which will prevent plants from harming each other:
Now consider examples of mixed planting vegetables in the garden and the advantages of just such combinations.
These two plants occupy, perhaps, the first place in the number of unsuccessful attempts to grow together with other vegetables. Such statistics are caused, rather, by the erroneous choice of neighbors and unscrupulous care. Let's try to understand the origins of such errors. Let's start with cucumbers. They belong to the gourd family and are a friendly plant that will easily get along with:
However, corn or beans will give the best result, because, firstly, they will not create a dense shade, providing photophilous cucumbers with a sufficient amount of solar energy, and secondly, they do not require the same microelements for their development as the main plant, which means depletion soil will be uniform and not too strong. In no case should you combine cucumbers with potatoes, herbs.
To get a harvest of healthy and strong tomatoes, you can apply an unusual combined scheme in which they will be combined with three plants at once: lettuce, spinach and radish. All of them are planted in the garden in two rows without additional gaps according to the pattern of tomato - lettuce - spinach - radish - tomato, etc. In addition, good results will be obtained by planting tomatoes together with such plants:
In the event of an invasion of pests, you can protect tomatoes by planting borage between their rows. Its smell perfectly repels harmful insects.
Planting between the rows of cucumbers and tomatoes of certain colors, such as marigolds, can give an interesting effect. They will enrich the soil and attract beneficial insects that will pollinate vegetables, helping to increase yields. Some sources, by the way, recommend in this case the scheme of tomato - marigolds - cucumber - marigolds - tomato, etc.
Potato is not a very sociable plant, capable, thanks to its developed root system and high shoots, to destroy many weak crops, but, in turn, suffers from the neighborhood with strong and tall ones. It is necessary to select vegetables for mixed plantings with it very carefully. Potatoes do not tolerate:
However, it will bear fruit excellently, without disturbing the neighbors, if they are:
As in the situations described above, marigolds can give a good result. However, it is best to take into account crop rotation parameters and use potatoes as an intermediate crop that uses resources not affected by the predecessor and unnecessary by the successor. For example, having finished harvesting lettuce (leaf or watercress, or better, a combination of them) in the spring, we plant early-ripening potato varieties on the same bed, and after it ripens, we use the land to grow Chinese cabbage and kohlrabi. At the same time, you need to plant them in a checkerboard pattern. Strawberries and wild strawberries are other types of plants that develop well after harvesting potatoes, so this land is perfect for propagating these plants through rosettes.
All these vegetables belong to the gourd family and have common requirements for growing conditions. They are friendly to almost everyone, with the exception, perhaps, of the notorious potato. But the best companion for them will be garlic - it will scare away pests and protect plants from diseases. You can plant garlic randomly, but the best results will give an orderly alternation. Other plants that gourds feel comfortable with are:
In addition, the use of flowers and herbs, which attract pollinators and protect against harmful effects, gives a good effect. Some herbs can also improve the palatability of zucchini and pumpkins by providing valuable micronutrients and organic matter to the soil. These plants include:
The latter is a universal "thinner" of almost any vegetables, not only harmonizing with individual species, but also smoothing out their interspecific differences by stabilizing the composition of the soil.
Cabbage (both white and broccoli, kohlrabi, etc.) is an extremely capricious plant. He has both friends and enemies. The latter include tall climbing plants, primarily climbing beans and grapes, as well as:
One of the secrets of successful horticulture is allelopathy - the compatibility of vegetable crops. In other words, it is the knowledge of how plants "befriend each other". This approach will help not only to achieve high yields and health of crops, but also to preserve the natural fertility of the soil, which is an essential condition for any type of agriculture.
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When a summer resident draws up a planting plan for his site, he needs to know what grew on it in previous seasons. This is very important, since when growing monocultures, one-sided depletion of the soil occurs, which means that not all plants will be able to survive and give a good harvest.
Cultures differ in the time of fruit ripening. This allows you to rationally distribute plantings and make sure that the land does not stand idle. Be sure to take into account the size of plants, their need for light and soil moisture, resistance to pests, demanding fertility. In the latter case, there are strong consumers of nutrients, and there are weaker ones, which is one of the factors affecting the compatibility of vegetables in the garden.
All of the above criteria lay the foundation for natural farming called "mixed planting".
Planting vegetables - after what predecessors can a good harvest be expected?
This is a method of organic farming, based on many years of experience of well-known gardeners, who carefully observe the natural processes in the plant world and implement them in their plots. It was this approach - observation and application - that made it possible to accurately determine the compatibility of plants in the garden.
The essence of this method is to plant different vegetable crops on the same land plot in such a way that they have a beneficial effect on each other, creating a good microclimate that provides a rich harvest and natural protection from pests.
People who have been planting vegetables on a mixed basis for more than a year note the following positive aspects of this approach:
When creating the right mixed plantings in the garden, a separate "kingdom" is formed, which has its own laws that do not require unnecessary human intervention. Vegetables and other plants, terrestrial and underground insects and other fauna coexist in harmony, maintaining a natural balance, as in the wild. Of course, a person is not completely removed from work, but his physical labor in the garden is reduced to a minimum.
A few simple rules will help you get a good harvest without the use of chemical fertilizers:
For the correct combinations of plants in the garden, you can use the vegetable compatibility table when planting.
The plant compatibility table clearly shows what can be planted with what and how plants affect each other.
Name of culture | friendly neighbors | Beneficial features | Unfriendly neighbors |
Watermelon | beans, potatoes, sow thistle, mar, oats | ||
Basil | sweet peppers, peas, all types of cabbage, tomatoes, eggplant, asparagus | repels ants, aphids and other pests; protects tomatoes and corn from hornworm, beans from bean weevil | cucumber, rue |
Eggplant | pepper, bush beans, onion, spinach, lettuce, peas, thyme, basil | fennel, cucumber, pumpkin | |
vegetable beans | all types of cabbage, peas, carrots, radishes, rhubarb, cucumber, beets, corn, potatoes, pumpkin, sage, zucchini, strawberries, mustard, lettuce, rosemary | legumes are able to enrich the soil with nitrogen; repel the Colorado potato beetle, get rid of the wireworm | fennel, peas, onion, garlic, marigolds |
Peas | basil, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard, eggplant, Beijing, legumes, carrots, turnips, cucumbers, radishes, radishes, parsley, zucchini, pumpkin, watermelon, corn | improves the taste of watermelons and their growth; enriches the soil with nitrogen | hyssop, wormwood, rhubarb, beans, rhubarb, tomato, onion, garlic, beans |
Mustard | all types of cabbage, radish, legumes, peas, beets, spinach | beetroot, rapeseed, turnip | |
Melon | corn, radish, radish, beans | potatoes, cucumbers | |
vegetable marrow | onions, corn, beets, legumes, bush beans, mint, radish, nasturtium | Potato, pumpkin | |
White cabbage | radish, beet, potato, lettuce, cucumber, celery, beans, spinach, onion, fennel, dill, beans, mint, sage, coriander, rosemary, thyme, basil, thyme, marjoram | stimulates the growth of celery | carrot, tomato, grape, turnip, garlic, parsley, tansy, cauliflower |
Broccoli | parsley, beans, potatoes, onions, beets, lettuce, carrots, sage, celery, dill, rosemary, oregano, nasturtium, mint, chamomile | tomato, turnip, strawberry, cauliflower | |
Brussels sprouts | potatoes, beans, mustard, sage, mint, celery, hyssop, lettuce, dill | Strawberries, tomatoes | |
Kohlrabi | cucumber, lettuce, radish, onion, beetroot, spinach, peas, mint, dill, potatoes, fennel, basil, mustard, pepper, chamomile, sage | tomato, bean, strawberry, horseradish, garlic | |
leafy cabbage | potatoes, mint, sage | tansy | |
Cabbage | peas, beans, spinach, lettuce, carrots, mint, mustard, sage | Strawberry, tomato | |
Cauliflower | lettuce, cucumber, celery, potatoes, beans, mustard, hyssop, mint, nasturtium, thyme, sage, grapes | tomato, strawberry, white cabbage, beetroot, broccoli | |
Potato | onions, white cabbage, corn, horseradish, garlic, beans, radishes, eggplant, radish, calendula, legumes, spinach, lettuce, horseradish, nasturtium, marigolds, thyme, coriander, beets, watermelon, amaranth | fennel, pumpkin, quinoa, tomato, cucumber, melon, celery, sunflower, zucchini, rhubarb | |
Watercress | radish, radish, turnip, onion, nasturtium, spinach, tomato, grapes | improves the taste of radishes | cucumbers |
Corn | potatoes, lettuce, beans, beans, zucchini, pumpkin, cucumber, peas, watermelon, artichoke, melon, tomato, soy, basil, grapes, sunflower, lettuce | gives a good shade for watermelons, melons, gourds and cucumbers and improves their growth and taste | fennel, onion, beetroot, celery |
Onion | carrot, cucumber, beetroot, tomato, cabbage, chicory, strawberry, spinach, watercress, chamomile, zucchini, watermelon, melon, fennel, savory, marjoram, pepper, potato, dill, parsley, borage | repels pests from carrots; improves tomato growth | sage, beans, beans, radishes, radishes, peas, turnips, asparagus |
Leek | celery, parsley, carrots, cabbage, lettuce, beets, borage, beans, strawberries | repels aphids and caterpillars of cabbage scoops | beans, broccoli, peas |
Carrot | cucumber, onion, radish, pea, beet, sage, parsley, radish, spinach, lettuce, pea, rosemary, sage, tobacco, tomato, garlic, chives, marjoram, strawberry | repels onion fly | beetroot, anise, parsley, fennel, dill, celery |
Cucumber | corn, late cabbage, carrots, onions, garlic, beans, dill, fennel, peas, lettuce, radish, kohlrabi, spinach, beets, radishes, celery, chamomile, eggplant, legumes, cilantro, peanuts | tomato, marjoram, potato, watercress, melon, eggplant, basil, rhubarb, sage, | |
Pepper | tomato, basil, lovage, spinach, geranium, petunia, marjoram, carrot, onion, eggplant, tomato, thyme, coriander | promotes the growth of basil | kohlrabi, pumpkin, beans, cucumber, fennel |
Parsley | onions, grapes, strawberries, spinach, thyme, asparagus, lettuce, dill, peas, zucchini, radish, radish | improves the taste of tomatoes; heals vineyards; repels slugs among strawberry plantings | carrots, celery, lovage, cilantro, white cabbage |
Rhubarb | celery, cabbage, lettuce, beans, peas, spinach | potato, turnip, radish, onion, carrot, radish, radish, pea | |
Radish | tomato, beans, spinach, carrots, cabbage, celery, lettuce, beans, zucchini, pumpkin, peas, onions, parsley, cucumber, potatoes, watercress, garlic, grapes, strawberries, clover, beets, melon, turnips | stimulates the growth of grapes | fennel, rhubarb, hyssop, |
radish | cucumber, melon, tomato, carrot, spinach, beans, fennel, beets, cabbage, parsnips, beans, grapes, watercress, parsley, strawberries | protects cucumbers from leaf beetles and spider mites and improves their taste; good effect on the soil | hyssop, beetroot, onion, rhubarb, celery |
Turnip | radish, peas, watercress, spinach, beans | tomato, rhubarb, mustard, onion, gulyavnik, knotweed | |
Salad | legumes, parsley, beets, peas, potatoes, strawberries, corn, onions, peppers, radishes, turnips, pumpkins, beans, celery, spinach, eggplant | improves the growth and taste of tomatoes; protects crops from earthen flea | carrots, beets |
Beet | onion, radish, cucumber, carrot, garlic, cabbage, zucchini, beans, tomato, fennel, beans, peas, lettuce, potatoes | stimulates the growth of grapes | chives, celery, corn, dill, mustard |
Celery | cabbage, cucumber, spinach, onion, beans, tomato, beans | protects crops from earthen fleas; repels white butterflies from cabbage | corn, potatoes, carrots, radishes, beets, parsley |
Asparagus | basil, parsley, tomato, potato, cabbage, lettuce | spinach, beans, onion | |
Tomato | basil, radish, parsley, onion, garlic, lettuce, beans, carrots, sow thistle, corn, spinach, sage, asparagus, beans, early white cabbage, beets, celery, radish, lemon balm, marigolds, dioica nettle, pepper, thyme, mint | quinoa, turnip, potato, dill, pea, fennel, pumpkin, kohlrabi, cucumber | |
Pumpkin | corn, mint, peas, beans, radishes | potato, pepper, pumpkin, tomato, zucchini | |
Dill | broccoli, cabbage, cucumber, spinach, onion, lettuce | increases the yield of cucumbers and cabbage; repels aphids and caterpillars | carrots, tomato, beets, basil, potatoes, beans |
Bush beans | cabbage, potato, cucumber, radish, lettuce, turnip, celery, tomato, savory, spinach, eggplant, grapes, pumpkin, strawberry, beetroot, corn, marrow, borage | enhances the taste of radishes and potatoes, protection against pests | garlic, onion, peas, kohlrabi, dill, pepper, asparagus |
Fennel | White cabbage, kohlrabi, cucumber, onion, radish, beetroot | eggplant, cumin, radish, beans, carrots, tomato, potatoes, coriander, peppers, spinach, corn | |
Horseradish | potato | protects against potato bugs | kohlrabi, radish, radish |
Garlic | parsley, tomato, beet, carrot, lettuce, cucumber, radish, strawberry, potato | beans, beans, cabbage, peas | |
Spinach | compatible with almost all cultures | accelerates the growth of onions, creates a favorable microclimate | asparagus, fennel, zucchini |
To get a good harvest of this tasty and tender crop, you need to choose the right neighborhood of vegetables in the beds with it. The best neighbors for strawberries are parsley, which repels slugs, as well as leeks - it protects against gray rot.
Calendula and marigold help to cope with the nematode. In autumn, these flowers can be crushed and mulched between rows. Irises protect strawberry bushes from frost. Sage improves taste.
Neighborhood with carrots increases the yield of both crops. Onions and garlic repel harmful insects. Spinach, lettuce, beans, beets, radishes and radishes have a positive effect on the growth of strawberries.
Strawberries do not have bad neighbors in the garden among vegetables, although the opinion regarding the proximity of different types of cabbage to it remains ambiguous. It is believed that the culture does not like the close location of birches, but it is good for it near spruces and pines, whose needles can be used as mulch.
Different crops consume different amounts of nutrients, mainly nitrogen, which greatly affects the compatibility of plants in the garden. According to this principle, they can be classified:
Practical knowledge about the mixed planting of vegetables in the beds, the compatibility of garden, garden plants, their influence on each other has been accumulated by many generations of gardeners. What are the advantages of mixed landings? What plants can not be planted next to the beds? How can plants influence each other? What vegetables grow well together? How to choose the best neighbors for your plants? What are the benefits of co-planting? We try to learn more about them, to take this knowledge into account in our practice. Sometimes, however, they are quite contradictory.
For example, it seems that there are often assurances of many about the incompatibility of growing cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse. This is explained by the different requirements of these vegetables to the conditions of detention, temperature, humidity. But, nevertheless, for many they get along well with each other. Why is it so? Until now, this controversial question has no definite answer. Is it possible to plant potatoes with cabbage?
Let's start with theory.
What is allelopathy? This word is of Greek origin - allēlōn - mutually and páthos - suffering - mutual suffering. This means that plants can influence each other, cause each other suffering, inconvenience. This is the original meaning of the word allelopathy. Now, allelopathy has come to be understood not only as a negative, but also as a positive interaction of plants with each other. Allelopathy refers to the interaction of plants with each other through various secretions - root and leaf.
Plants secrete through the roots various substances, mainly organic - amino acids, sugars, biologically active substances, antibiotics, hormones, enzymes, and others, which can affect neighboring plants, both positively and negatively.
Through the leaves of the plant, various substances are also secreted - most often volatile. But they can also release water-soluble ones, which are washed off by rain or when watered, enter the soil, and have a different effect on neighboring plants.
These properties - the influence on each other - plants acquired during a long evolution, when they grew together in natural conditions. They had to compete, to establish some kind of relationship with each other. It is assumed that this property - allelopathy - is developed by plants in the process of competition for light, water, and nutrients in the soil. In this competitive struggle, plants can even use chemical protection, that is, they release chemicals: enzymes, vitamins, alkaloids, essential oils, organic acids, phytoncides.
Some of these compounds are similar in properties to herbicides used to kill weeds. These substances, called inhibitors (inhibitors), kill neighboring plants or retard their growth, inhibit seed germination, reduce the intensity of physiological processes and their vital activity.
It is important to note that inhibitors only act negatively when there are many of them. Their small concentrations already act as accelerators of physiological processes, that is, as stimulants.
What is written above is rather theoretical information. Can this knowledge be put into practice in our garden?
It is possible, even necessary! They must be taken into account when sowing, planting seedlings in a greenhouse or open ground, since this knowledge has been verified not only by science, but by many generations of gardeners. We will talk further about mixed or joint landings.
Such plantings are part of organic or, as it is also called, biodynamic farming. It is based on working with nature, not against it. The founder of biodynamic agriculture was the famous German philosopher Rudolf Steiner. Now the idea of organic farming is becoming more and more popular all over the world. And mixed plantings in the gardens and vegetable gardens of Europe have long become commonplace.
The reception of joint plantings in the garden for a long time and has been successfully used in Germany. The Germans are very pragmatic in their approach to these things, they believe that it is irrational to lose the area of their personal plots without any purpose. The main thing for them is the amount of production per unit area. They are very proud of the fact that they have learned to get as much benefit from every piece of land as possible. For example, one vegetable plant is planted in the garden, and the sides of the beds are empty - this is a mess. It does not matter what grows on this square - cucumbers or tulips.
In Russia, the reception of mixed, combined landings is not yet very common.
Let's take a closer look at the experience of German gardeners. The optimal width of the beds, they say, is 1 meter.
The central part of the garden, the middle should be occupied by some kind of main crop. This is the culture that will grow in the garden for a long time, until the end of the season. During this period, it will grow strongly, over time it will occupy the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe garden. For example, it can be cabbage or tomatoes.
But at the beginning of the growing season they are small. The side area of the bed can be planted with something else that quickly ripens. It can be spinach, lettuce, radish - friendly crops. Spinach is generally compatible with almost all crops, it even stimulates the development of neighboring plants.
By the time the tomatoes or kale have grown, the spinach, radish, or lettuce will have been cut, plucked up for food. This is just one of the aspects that speaks in favor of joint landings.
Additional, fast-maturing plants should be small, compact, so that their root system does not interfere with the main crop.
Often joint plantings protect each other from pests. For organic farming, this is very important, as it is against the use of herbicides or other chemical protection products. For such purposes, aromatic plants are most often used - basil, coriander, onion, sage.
Many herbs bring triple benefits: they are beautiful, they enrich our table, they attract beneficial insects to our garden.
It is believed that coriander with its smell can even scare away the Colorado potato beetle from potatoes. But, it should be borne in mind that a lot of such aromatic plants should be planted so that aromatic vapors create a significant cover over the site.
For cabbage, aromatic protection is also important, since it itself attracts various butterflies with its smell. By the way, the Colorado potato beetle, white butterfly find their prey - potatoes, cabbage - by smell. Lettuce or celery planted along the edges of the garden can help protect cabbage from pests. That is, if aromatic herbs are planted nearby, then their smell will kill the smell of potatoes or cabbage, to some extent disorientate pests.
Among gardeners, such a term is common - a nanny plant. It is believed that if you plant nasturtium along the perimeter of the cabbage bed, then the cruciferous flea will first attack the flowers. That is, nasturtium - a nanny for cabbage - distracts pests. By the way, cabbage salad is also somewhat of a babysitter - it distracts slugs, which are very fond of salad, which has more tender juicy leaves than cabbage. And if slugs have a choice, they choose lettuce.
If you want to protect cabbage from slugs, plant lettuce. And how to protect the salad from slugs without resorting to chemistry? This is already more difficult ... It is believed that the oak bark used as mulch will well protect the salad (and not only it) from slugs.
Practitioner gardeners have long noticed that neighboring plants can not only compact plantings, protect each other from pests, but also improve each other's taste. For example, basil improves the taste of tomatoes, while dill improves the taste of cabbage.
Isop, parsley, lavender, sage, borage, thyme, mint, chamomile, chervil work well on almost all vegetables. Planted along the edges of beds or plots, white lamb, deaf nettle, valerian, yarrow make vegetable plants healthier, more resistant to diseases and pests.
Here's something else interesting about mixed plantings. I read this from N. Zhirmunskaya in the book Good and Bad Neighbors in the Garden Bed.
The history of the use of the idea of such landings has more than one century. The ancient Indians grew corn, pumpkin, and beans in the same field. They noticed that corn, for example, creates a shadow, protects the earth and pumpkin from the scorching rays of the sun, and is a good support for beans. Pumpkin covers the ground with its leaves, stifles the growth of weeds, retaining moisture, protects the ground from drying out.
In addition, the ancient Indians did not destroy all weeds, for example, amaranth, quinoa, which are now weeds for us. They let them grow along with the vegetables.
It turns out that some weeds can benefit cultivated garden plants. Even the ancient Indians noticed that amaranth, a malicious weed in our gardens, can share with some plants the nutrients it receives from the depths of the soil.
There is, for example, an opinion that one should not weed all the amaranth over potatoes, leaving 3-5 plants per square meter. Having no competitors nearby, amaranth grows, its powerful root system, penetrating deep into the soil, extracts nutrients there - phosphorus, potassium, calcium, which are much more at a depth than in the upper layers. Excesses of these elements are released through the roots into the soil, nourish the potatoes. That is, amaranth, as it were, shares these surpluses with potatoes. Moreover, these nutrients are in a digestible form, easily absorbed, absorbed by potatoes.
Agronomists have already established through laboratory experiments that, indeed, plants can share their root secretions with each other. I must say that plants do not skimp on root secretions - this is very important for them. It has been established that approximately 20% of what is synthesized in the leaves of plants is released by their roots into the soil.
Recently, the issue of the benefits and harms of weeds has been significantly revised. If weeds are not allowed to grow uncontrollably, stifle cultivated plants, especially in the early stages of growth, then they can play the role of a useful member of the plant community.
By the way, I noticed that thistle - a malicious weed - distracts aphids. Cucumbers grew in my greenhouse. They grew well. Were healthy. The harvest was good. Sow thistle grew in the corner of the greenhouse - I didn’t notice it right away, Only then I paid attention to it, when it grew over a meter tall, I even threw away the buds. Decided to root it out. She gasped when she saw that he was covered with aphids. Here it is, I think, a breeding ground for pests - it must be destroyed. And what? Not even a day passed after that, as all my, still healthy, cucumbers were covered with aphids. I had to take measures to destroy the aphids. It turns out that sow thistle protected my plants from aphids.
I never pull out all the weeds on tomatoes planted in open ground. I do weeding only in the first growing season, when there is a danger that the weeds will clog the tomatoes and cover them from the sun. But, when my tomatoes gain strength, they are not afraid of weeds. They cover the soil from the burning sun - it does not crust, does not dry out, it can be watered less often. In addition, grass, weeds protect fruits from sunburn, which is very important in our southern hot climate.
Most weeds have deep root systems. In the struggle for existence, they developed the ability to get food deep in the soil. In cultivated plants, which we pamper with our care, this ability is rare.
The most important vegetable plants, such as potatoes, corn, head lettuce, cucumbers and a number of others, have a shallow root system and receive nutrition from the upper layers of the soil. And, for example, a dandelion with its powerful root system extracts calcium from the depths. In addition, this weed releases a large amount of ethylene gas into the air, which accelerates the ripening of fruits, not to mention the fact that its bright flowers attract bees and other pollinating insects to the garden.
So far, we have talked about the positive influence of plants on each other. But there is also a negative impact.
For example, do not plant carrots and parsley side by side. These are plants of the same family and their influence on each other is negative, they do not tolerate each other's root secretions.
There are plants that do not like their own root secretions - they are not recommended to be planted in the same place, even two years in a row. It is believed that beets belong to such plants.
All legumes do not go well with all types of onions and garlic. That is, they cannot be planted side by side.
In one year, I placed them next to each other, practically didn’t even leave a path between them, onions and peas. Didn't know they were incompatible. And what? Peas could not stand such a neighborhood. Two rows of peas - closest to the onion - sprouted, but disappeared after a while. So the peas themselves made a path between themselves and the onions.
Watercress adversely affects many vegetable crops.
Pumpkin does not like the neighborhood of potatoes.
Even plants of different ages can affect each other in different ways. That is, the plants are not initially hostile to each other, but planted one much earlier than the other can suppress each other.
Here is an example not from a book - from my experience. I identified one bed for late cabbage and Beijing cabbage. I decided that Beijing cabbage will ripen earlier and make room for late cabbage. Seedlings of Beijing cabbage planted much earlier than cabbage. What came of it? Until I removed the Beijing cabbage, which, by the way, has grown very much, the seedlings of cabbage froze in growth. As a result, she began to gain growth much later, she could not form heads of high quality. I think this did not happen if I planted them at the same time, or at least one after the other with a small time gap.
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