Garden in spring: How to spray trees and shrubs, and most importantly - when? How to process a garden in early spring - detailed instructions for caring for fruit trees.
In the spring, in the bloom of flowering, in lush greenery in summer, burdened with fruits in autumn or covered with snow in winter - the garden lives at any time of the year. And at any time it requires care, work, supervision. Any work should be timed to its deadline: after all, to hurry or be late means wasting time and energy, losing crops, and even harming the earth and plants.
And although it is hardly possible to give absolutely accurate, exhaustive recommendations here, because, as they say, it doesn’t happen year after year, a lot depends on specific weather conditions, however, an approximate monthly calendar of work on the site will help the gardener to properly manage the farm, prepare ahead of time for the ripening work and perform it in the best agrotechnical terms.
What is it, the calendar of care for fruit and berry crops in relation to middle lane Russia? Let's start it, of course, with spring, when the garden awakens to a new, active life. So, the border month between winter and spring ...
March. First of all, we advise the summer resident to put on high boots or boots, go around the site and carefully examine all fruit trees and berry bushes. The branches of the bushes are released from under the snow so that they do not break when the snow begins to melt and settle. Snowdrifts around the boles of young apple trees are trampled down tightly, destroying mouse passages and preventing rodents from reaching the tasty bark. Damage found on stems and skeletal branches should be immediately, without cleaning with a knife, covered with garden pitch, and then wrapped with black film. Transparent is also suitable, but it must be covered with dark paper on top. So the wounds heal faster.
If in autumn the stems and bases of the skeletal branches of apple trees were not protected from damage by sunburn, this must be done now by applying special compound, prepared at the rate of 10 liters of water, 2.5 kg of lime, 1 kg of clay and 0.3 kg blue vitriol. When these components are not at hand, you can do it easier: wrap the stem above the snow surface and the base of the skeletal branches with light paper, such as newspapers. Defence from sunburn especially necessary for trees not enough winter-hardy varieties and frozen in one of the last harsh winters.
At this time, annual shoots begin to be harvested for spring grafting of fruit crops. Their wood should be light green, and if it is brownish, then the shoots are frozen and unsuitable for grafting.
As soon as the daytime temperature rises above zero, they start pruning fruit trees. We have already talked about this important operation in some detail. We add that the branches with clutches of the ringed silkworm or with the wintering nests of the hawthorn (several leaves are tangled in a cobweb) are burned, and the rest, cut into 20-25-cm segments, can later be used for hidden drainage, which was also mentioned.
When the snow melts and the soil dries a little on the site, we advise the summer resident to carefully examine the trees and shrubs again. The roofing felt and roofing felt used to protect against rodents are removed from the trees, and if damage is found again, they are treated in the same way as just recommended. It happens that the damage is large and one cannot do without vaccination with a bridge. Then, from a variety known for its good compatibility with many varieties of apple trees (Streifling is especially suitable), several strong annual shoots, wrapped in a wet cloth, then in a film and stored in the basement or on the ground under the house, with a barn on the north side. Vaccination with a bridge is done in May, during active sap flow in a damaged tree.
Carry out pruning and formation of berry bushes. At the same time, annual shoots are cut out from healthy and productive bushes of black, red and white currants for propagation by lignified cuttings, unless, of course, this work was done in the fall. Branches damaged by a glass case are removed from blackcurrants: they are fragile, with a corroded core filled with dark secretions, as well as annual shoots damaged by currant stem gall midges (usually they are dry or semi-dry, in the lower part they have an area with dark sunken spots and cracks). From blackcurrant and gooseberry bushes, disease-prone powdery mildew, remove the tips of the shoots that are twisted and covered with a dense white felt coating. From black and red currants are collected in a tin or glass jar kidneys damaged by a kidney mite: they are very large, round, pale yellow in color. If there are many such buds on the shoot, then it is completely removed. In raspberries, shoots specifically thickened in the lower part, affected by stem gall midges, are cut out. All these wastes are immediately incinerated.
April. Continue pruning fruit trees and berry bushes. When the soil under them dries enough, it is harrowed with a rake. At the same time they rake up fallen leaves and plant remains, which will serve as raw materials for obtaining an excellent organic fertilizer - compost. The place for composting (see Chapter I) is set aside as shady as possible, away from housing and the well. It should be flat, at least 2 x 1.5 m in size.
The site is deepened and surrounded by an earthen roller so that the liquid fractions do not spread. This is where leaves, other plant debris, sawdust, kitchen waste are raked - in a word, all kinds of organic matter. compost heap must be kept moist at all times. Therefore, in hot and dry weather, it is periodically watered, including slurry, which contributes to a more complete and rapid decomposition of the plant mass. For the same purpose, a pile is shoveled from time to time. And to eliminate bad smell, it is covered thin layer cut grass, weeds, etc. The fertilizer value of the compost is increased by adding 1-2% simple superphosphate and 2-3% lime (of the total mass of organic matter) to the masonry.
And if we are already talking about fertilizer, then we note in passing that under those trees whose annual growth is less than 15 cm, urea is scattered around at the rate of 1.5 matchboxes per 1 m2 of crown projection area. Fertilizers close up with a rake. For trees growing on sods, the dose of urea is doubled and it is usually applied in the evening, and if during the day, light watering is required so that the urea gets into the soil faster.
In the second half of April, fruit seedlings are planted in pits prepared since autumn. At the same time, young trees are also transplanted. They do it like this. At a distance of a meter from the stem, a groove is dug in a circle with a depth of two bayonets of a shovel. The roots found here are cut. Inside the circle with a pitchfork, without damaging the roots, carefully loosen and remove the soil. It is important to keep as many small overgrown roots as possible. The soil is raked and, when large horizontal roots are released, the tree is constantly loosened, the location of the vertical roots is determined and they are carefully chopped with a shovel. We recommend doing this work together. The tree is transplanted to a pre-prepared place, watered abundantly, mulched (with peat, humus, sawdust, etc.) and must be tied to a permanent support.
In April, taking advantage of the fact that the earth is well saturated with moisture, they also do such an unusual job: they raise trees with a deep root neck. Of course, the younger the tree, the easier and easier it is to do this, but it still requires the participation of two people. First, in the trunk circle, carefully remove upper layer soil until large roots appear. Then, at a distance of about 2 m from the trunk, they dig in a pillar with a diameter of 15-20 cm and a length of up to 1.2-1.5 m so that it rises 0.8-1.0 m above the soil surface. This will be a kind of support for lever, which is used as a 5-6-meter log, tied with a short end to a tree trunk under the lower skeletal branch.
Previously, this place is securely wrapped with a soft cloth. If the soil is still not sufficiently moistened, water is poured into the near-stem circle in such a way that it penetrates to a depth of 60-80 cm. Now they gradually press on the long end of the log until the root neck of the tree is 10- 15 cm. In this position, the log is fixed with a load for several days. Then all fixtures are removed. The roots are covered, watered and soil is added again so that it fills all the voids between the roots.
A leaning tree is straightened in the following way. From the side opposite to its slope, about a meter from the stem, they drive in strong stake or dig in a pole. A rope is tied to it, with a “figure eight” (through cardboard or roofing felt) they surround the trunk with it and pull the tree to the stake or pole until the trunk takes vertical position. The rope is tied in a tight knot, and the tree is left in this position for several days. To make the work more successful, in the near-trunk circle, the top layer of soil is first carefully removed until large roots appear. If the soil is not moist enough, carry out abundant watering. After that, the land is returned to its place.
In April, summer residents begin to regraft fruit trees, starting with plums and cherries. They are grafted into wood - by splitting methods, improved copulation with a tongue, into a side cut. Grafting is completed before the buds swell in the re-grafted trees. Then proceed to the regrafting of apple, pear, mountain ash. This operation is done only in dry weather.
As soon as the snow melts and the soil dries up a little on the strawberry plantation planted in autumn, the plants are trimmed. Those of them whose roots are bare spud. Bushes, in which the apical bud is covered with soil, are slightly raised with bayonet shovel. into place dead plants plant new ones of the same variety. Around the bushes, the soil is loosened with a bayonet to a depth of 2-3 cm, in the aisles - with a hoe to a depth of 8-10 cm. manual cultivator or hoes.
Immediately after these operations, strawberries are covered plastic wrap. Good results obtained when grown under the film of such varieties as Beauty Zagorya, Zarya, Festivalnaya. The ripening of their berries is accelerated by 10-20 days, and the yield increases by 70-80%. The film shelter is made in the form of a tunnel. If it is possible to jointly take two adjacent rows of two different varieties, then the yield of berries increases due to cross-pollination. The supporting elements of the shelter are arcs made of wire with a diameter of 6-10 mm, deepened by the ends into the soil. The height of the arcs above the ground is 0.7 m, and the distance from one another is 1 m. To prevent the film from sagging between them, the arcs are tied on top with twine. The film is stretched and pressed with the same arcs. During flowering, for better pollination of flowers by insects, the film is lifted along the tunnel. During the ripening period of the berries, the film is removed.
The maintenance of a site under black fallow, that is, the periodic loosening of the soil and the removal of weeds, requires a lot of time and labor. Therefore, some summer residents on the site use cultural delay. For this purpose, grasses with a shallow root system are suitable, for example, bluegrass meadow, fescue, white clover. The dried soil is dug up and carefully leveled, breaking clods with a rake. For every 10 m2, a mixture of seeds of white clover (2-3 g), meadow fescue (5-6 g) and bluegrass meadow (2 g) is sown. Then the soil is lightly harrowed reverse side rake and, protecting from birds, cover with a film. When the seeds germinate, the film is removed. The earlier the herbs are sown, the more friendly their seedlings.
If last season aphids, psyllid leafworm, mites were very common on the site, it is necessary to spray fruit trees and berry bushes with a 3-4% solution of nitrafen (300-400 g per 10 liters of water). This is done before bud break, when daytime temperatures reach 10°C. Plants are treated so that the solution completely covers even the smallest branches from all sides. Against apple and pear scab, cherry coccomycosis, the soil in tree trunks is watered with a 7% solution of urea (700 g per 10 l of water). Liquid consumption - 2 buckets per 1 m2.
May. Of all garden work, perhaps the most difficult and tedious is the fight against rhizomatous weeds, especially wheatgrass. There's nothing to be done: in the spring, again, you need to take up a shovel or pitchfork, dig up the site, carefully look out for and remove rhizomes. However, there are places where weeds are not very close, such as paths and ditches along the border of the site. Here you can use a special drug simazin, which is effective for at least a year, unless, of course, everything is done in strict accordance with the instructions. Simazine is used in the form of an aqueous suspension. The powder of the drug is first poured with a small amount of water, and then dissolved to the desired concentration. The solution is stirred before use. For spraying 10 m2 of area, 1 liter of suspension containing 10 g of powder is required. Such a dose is effective against cereal and broad-leaved annual and perennial weeds - field bindweed and creeping wheatgrass.
When buds bloom on fruit trees (the appearance of a “green cone” in them), these crops are sprayed with a mixture prepared in the following ratio: 30 g of karbofos, 20 g of chlorophos and 40 g of copper oxychloride per 10 liters of water. A similar measure is directed against apple blossom beetles, apple sucker larvae, fruit mites, aphids, bud moths, cherry and apple moth caterpillars, hawthorn, silkworms, scab and spotting - the main enemies of the future harvest. With a strong spread of pests, the same operation is repeated during the period of isolation and coloring of the buds (according to the “pink bud”).
The work started in April continues. Once again, they carefully examine the blackcurrant bushes and collect the buds damaged by the kidney mite, lift the trees planted in the fall with a deep root neck, etc. They regraft low-value varieties of apple and pear trees, using bark grafting along with methods “in wood”. Spend spring planting strawberries.
With the beginning of good sap flow, which is accompanied by the blooming of leaves on fruit trees, they begin to inoculate with a “bridge” those of them that are damaged by rodents. To do this, a T-shaped incision in the cortex is made above and below the damage. They take the shoots prepared earlier for such an inoculation and make sure that among them there are no frozen ones and with blossoming buds. The selected shoot, the length of which should be greater than the damaged area, is applied to the T-shaped cuts of the bark and the places of long (5-6 cm) oblique cuts are marked from the side facing the tree. On the other side of the long cut, a short cut is made on the shoot to improve the contact of the shoot with the bark of the tree. A long cut at the upper end of the shoot is made slightly higher compared to the cut on the bark of the tree, so that, being inserted under the bark, the shoot does not protrude when it is given a weak arcuate shape that does not allow the “bridge” to move when the tree is swaying by the wind. The ends of the shoots are carefully, without damage, brought into the T-shaped cuts of the bark. If the bark is thick and the cuts on the shoot cannot fit tightly to the cambium of the tree, then a groove is made in it corresponding to the thickness of the shoot.
The ends of the shoot are nailed to the tree with thin carnations 2-2.5 cm long, a film strap is applied and all the cracks are carefully covered with garden pitch. The number of "bridges" depends on the size of the damaged area of the bark and the age of the tree, but there should be at least two of them even on the trunk of a young tree. Caring for the "bridge" consists in the systematic removal of leaves and shoots that appear here. If this is not done, the upper end of the "bridge" does not take root. In sunny weather, the grafting sites are shaded, and the tree is periodically watered. The material for the "bridge" can also serve as shoots that appear below the site of damage, as well as root shoots near the trunk.
Fruit trees affected by frost are pruned when the buds open and the degree of damage to the branches becomes apparent. Completely frozen branches are cut into a ring, partially touched by frost - shortened. All sections, even small ones, are painted over oil paint(ocher or ferruginous minium). Garden var is not suitable, because, as we know, under the influence of strong juice secretion, it lags behind cuts.
It's time to get down to raspberries. First of all, shoots bent down for the winter are unleashed. Their tops are cut along the first upper well-formed kidney. Broken and diseased shoots are removed without hemp. The remaining shoots are evenly distributed in a row, tied to a trellis (it is preferable) or to stakes. We advise the summer resident to do the trellis as follows. In the middle of the row, at a distance of 5 m from each other, they dig in wooden or reinforced concrete poles, old water or asbestos-cement pipes so that they rise above the soil surface by at least 1.5 m. At a height of 1 m and 1.5 m, they are attached to them meter lengths of water pipes through which the wire is pulled.
All fruit-bearing shoots are evenly tied to it: those that are smaller - to the bottom, high - to the top. With such a trellis, the center of the raspberry bush is well lit by the sun, the development of annual shoots improves, and damage to them by fungal diseases is reduced.
In a dry spring and lack of rain, watering the berries before flowering is carried out, especially in areas with soft soil! It is good to combine it with fertilizing with organic fertilizers - slurry or bird droppings diluted 10 and 20 times, respectively. On raspberries they give a bucket of such a solution per meter of a row, on adult bushes of currants and gooseberries - two buckets each. Nitrogen fertilizers are undesirable here, as they can provoke damage to the berries by fungal diseases. fruit crops also, before flowering, it is recommended to feed with slurry, diluted bird droppings or urea. The dosage depends primarily on the age of the fruit tree. A solution of organic fertilizer is given at the rate of one bucket per 1 m2 of crown projection area. When feeding with urea per 1 m2 of the near-stem circle of a tree, up to 12 years of age, one matchbox (15 g) of the drug is introduced, up to 20 years old - 1.5 boxes and over 20 years old - two boxes. If trees are grown on turf, these doses are doubled. Top dressing is applied in the evening, after rain or before watering.
Before flowering berry crops sprayed with pesticides for the last time before harvesting. In the future, only appropriate herbal infusions are used that infect pests, but are harmless to humans. Strawberries during the period of peduncles are sprayed with karbofos (30 g per 10 l of water), fighting the raspberry-strawberry weevil and spider mites. Currants and gooseberries are treated with the same concentration against gall midges, sawflies, aphids, mites and moths. During the budding period, raspberries are sprayed again with a similar solution of karbofos against the raspberry beetle and the raspberry-strawberry weevil on fruiting and against the raspberry fly on young shoots.
Carefully inspect the flowering blackcurrant, identifying bushes damaged by terry. During the flowering period, this very serious disease is most easily detected, which is spread by bud mites and aphids. Flowers in healthy bushes have wide sepals of pale green color, and in diseased ones - narrow sepals of purple color. After flowering, they do not fall off, but dry up and take the form of an asterisk. Berries are not tied. Bushes damaged by terry are subject to uprooting. The disease is not transmitted through the soil, so new ones can be planted in place of uprooted bushes.
Two weeks after flowering, fruit trees are again sprayed with a mixture of karbofos, chlorophos and copper oxychloride (30, 20 and 40 g per 10 liters of water, respectively). The treatment is directed against the codling moth, aphids, suckers, leafworms, moths, scabs and other pests and diseases. If vegetables, strawberries or berry bushes grow under the crowns of trees or very close to them, then they should be covered with a film before spraying.
soil under fruit trees berry bushes, as well as in the aisles of a strawberry plantation, they are maintained in a loose and weed-free state.
May entered the business and painted nature for the first time. bright colours. The trees are rapidly trying on new outfits, as if preparing for the summer, and a young grass has dispersed on the ground. Immediately, the bees set to work, fertilizing the flowers with nectar. From the first half of May, as soon as the sun is already constantly giving off heat, the grass is already rapidly turning green, and the trees begin to be covered with dense leaves. Literally in a week, the leaf cover increases several times. At the same time, insect pests also wake up. Therefore, timely and correctly carried out work will save our garden, make it healthy, beautiful and fruitful.
CARE OF FRUIT TREES AND SHRUBS:
At the beginning of the month we finish planting fruit trees. We inspect apple tree seedlings planted in autumn, and carefully raise those that are too deep. We mulch the soil around the trees planted in autumn or spring, having previously loosened it.
Late spring frosts are possible at this time. We monitor the temperature and listen to forecasts in order to know in advance the danger of their onset. When frost sets in, we start smoking or sprinkling the garden.Remember that even light frosts can damage the flowers and deprive you of the harvest. For example, flower buds of an apple tree can withstand temperatures down to -4 degrees, and already opened flowers will die at 0: -1 degrees.
As it appears, we remove the basal and standard shoots, cutting it into a ring.
We carry out control over the hunting belts, when dry, we install new ones based on glue " Clean house”, “Alto”.
Before the buds appear, it's time to treat the pome trees with 1% Bordeaux mixture, a suspension of colloidal sulfur (100 g of sulfur per 10 liters of water) or a 0.01% solution of bayleton. Against the apple sawfly and cherry weevil - with a solution of karbofos. If there are not many pests, then it is better to use biological preparations, for example, fitoverm.
After flowering, we process plants from pests and diseases (codling moth - Fufanon, Kemifos, Iskra, Tsitkor, Kinmiks, Fury, mites - colloidal sulfur att-re above 18°C or Neoron at low or elevated temperatures, aphids - Decis, Clinmiks, scab - Scor, spotting - Copper oxychloride)
We whiten boles with hexachloride emulsion to control pests.
Before flowering, we water the garden at the rate of 1.5-2 buckets of water for each year of the tree's life.
We carry out fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers (after flowering) followed by mulching trunk circles (layer 8-10 cm). At the end of May, we carry out a second fertilizing with nitrogen if the leaves are light green.
We carry out repeated sanitary pruning if necessary.
We carry out the second spraying of gooseberries from powdery mildew(immediately after flowering, but not earlier than 10 days after the first spraying)
We spray others fruit bushes against diseases and pests (immediately after flowering)
We weed from weeds.
At the beginning of the second decade, we carry out the first top dressing of garden strawberries.Before loosening the soil, urea is applied (250-300 g per 10 m²) or ammonium nitrate(300-400 g per m²).
With favorable weather conditions bloomgarden strawberryends in the third decade of May. At this time, it is optimal to carry out the second top dressing: Urea
(carbamide) (NH 2
)
2
CO - Application dose - 10-15 g/m², Superphosphate Ca(H 2
PO 4
)
2
- Application dose - 20-30 g/m², Potassium sulfate K 2
SO 4 -
The application dose is 15-20 g/m².
CARE OF DECORATIVE deciduous trees and shrubs:
We carry out spraying from pests, the processing time is the beginning of bud break (green cone). 0.1% solution of ACTELLIK; 0.01% solution of DIMILIN; 0.01% ARRIVO solution; 0.02% KARATE solution; 0.03% INTA-VIR solution; 0.01% solution of ZIMBUSH; 1% solution of colloidal sulfur. With repeated treatments, it is necessary to change the active substance, and not the name of the drug.
In the middle of May we spend outside root dressing deciduous trees and shrubs with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. For this top dressing, we take any easily soluble nitrogen fertilizers and dilute them according to the instructions, then add 10 parts of water to the resulting solution, counting the volume of the solution diluted according to the instructions as a unit. With the resulting weak solution of nitrogen fertilizers, we spray the plants over the green mass, avoiding the solution getting on the flowers.
If you did not have time to feed deciduous trees and shrubs in April, we include this event in garden care in May. We introduce a complete mineral fertilizer with a predominance of nitrogen into the soil, under a shovel.
We re-treat for pests.
We weed landings.
CARE OF CONIFEROUS TREES AND SHRUBS:
We process coniferous trees and shrubs, especially we pay attention to plants that are not typical of our zone - arborvitae, junipers, hemlocks, etc. with immunostimulating drugs and drugs that stimulate root formation, such as EPIN, ETAMON.
We weed near-stem circles of trees and shrubs, carefully removing the roots of perennial weeds - by doing this work in the garden in May in good faith, you will save yourself from exhausting summer work. After weeding and loosening the soil, it's time to correct and form tree trunks and shrubs.
In the first decade of May, we carry out root dressing: NUTRISOL 25g per plant (10 l. 0.25% solution), continuous treatment from bark beetles and foliar top dressing: DECIS PROFI 0.04% + complex chelate microfertilizer 0.2% + iron chelate 0.1% + lignohumate K 0.15%
AT last years in our region, spring is often very dry. We carry out watering near-stem circles of trees and shrubs. Watering should be plentiful and long. Unlike deciduous, coniferous plants love rain.
In the third decade of May, continuous treatment of plants from diseases and pests: KLIPER 0.2% + TOPAZ 0.1%, and root top dressing:NUTRISOL 25g per plant (10l. 0.25% solution)
LAWN CARE:
We carefully examine the surface of the lawn, if we see the moss that has appeared, we clean the areas of the lawn from moss. If there is a lot of moss on the lawn, we add a mixture of sifted sand and dolomite flour(or lime).
We remove weeds from the surface of the lawn.
If after winter there are a lot of “bald” spots on the lawn, we sow the seeds of lawn grass, additionally on these areas, mixing these seeds with sand. We roll the seeded areas of the lawn.
If the weather is dry, we water the lawn.
Lawn mowing begins in May. ATTENTION!!! Weakened after winter lawn grass mows high - by 7-8 cm. Low mowing of the lawn in May will further weaken the lawn, leading to even more greater loss decorative.
After the first mowing of the lawn, we feed the lawn with a complete mineral fertilizer, with a predominance of nitrogen.
We mow the lawn regularly, perhaps every week, as the grass grows.
FLOWER CARE:
If in April they did not manage to remove parts perennials- It's time to do it in the first days of May.
Be sure to remove flower stalks on faded bulbous plants, we do not allow seed setting.
Let's loosen the soil in flower beds, carefully removing perennial weeds.
We will carry out foliar top dressing of flower beds with fertilizer with a predominance of nitrogen.
We will introduce a complete mineral fertilizer with a predominance of nitrogen into the soil of the flower garden.
Mulch the surface of the flower beds to prevent the topsoil from drying out(you can use neutral peat, wood chips, which we get by crushing the branches of trees and shrubs).
We plant seedlings of annual flowers in decorative flowerpots and planters.
Iris rhizomes need to be dug up so that they protrude halfway from the ground, iris roots prefer to be closer to the surface of the soil, where the largest number nutrients. That is why the earth around the plant must be very carefully loosened, providing twe eat the most access of air masses to the root system.
Landscape designer at Greenland LLC, Togliatti
Ayupova Gelfiya
The most troublesome gardening period is coming. During active work, do not forget to admire the riot of lilac and bird cherry and listen to the warm, fragrant evening to the nightingale concert. If you are not lazy in early spring, then everything is ready for sowing.
Garden work in May:
- We start by removing all the remaining winter shelters, loosen the ground around the crops and cut off the damaged branches and stems. You can continue to vaccinate. And remember that in May it is no longer possible to spray plants with agents that are detrimental to bees!
- Trees can be sprayed in the green cone phase by special means to protect against beetles, moths, ticks and aphids and some diseases - spotting and scab. Once may not be enough. Then repeat the treatment in the phase of isolation and coloring of the buds.
Check your irrigation systems again. Equip compost pit, digging half a meter deep and protecting it with boards or bricks. Do not forget to sprinkle kitchen waste and mowed grass with earth or peat. Decorate the path with flower borders. By the end of May, it's time to cut hedge and lawn. Two days before the haircut “do not walk on the lawns!” - it will be easier to achieve a neat grass mat.
- Cold-resistant annuals can be planted already in the first days of May. Cornflower, gypsophila, bindweed, delphinium, godetia, calendula, lavater, flax, lobularia, mignonette will not be afraid of a slight May frost. Before planting, hold sweet peas in a damp cloth, and wait for the seeds to peck.
- If you are going to propagate perennials, the best time for this - the end of April - the beginning of May. Scabiosa, echinacea, shrub aster, rudbeckia, goldenrod, etc. can be dug up from the side and small parts can be separated from the root. Do not forget to water the planted delenki.
- In the last decade of April, it's time to start hardening the grown seedlings, taking them out to Fresh air. In early May, you can plant a carnation Shabo, Snapdragon, ornamental cabbage in prepared flower beds. Plant gladioli in a sunny spot. And after May 20, send more heat-loving pets there - verbena, coreopsis, nirembergia, annual aster, rhododendron.
- Early can be planted in open ground beets, turnip onions and sets, carrots; sow pumpkin, zucchini, squash and beans in the greenhouse for seedlings. By the middle of the month you can land on warm beds cucumber seeds under the film. Plant unheated greenhouses with seedlings of cucumbers, tomatoes, eggplants and peppers no earlier than mid-May, when the weather sets. Hold a portion of seedlings for open ground until the onset of summer heat. Physalis and basil, too, let them wait.
- Seedlings of head lettuce, celery, leeks are not afraid of morning frosts - they can be safely planted in the beds in the first decade of May. Do not bury lettuce sprouts in the soil, otherwise the seedlings will rot. The ground should not touch the base of the leafy outlet. For leeks, make deep grooves - the leg will grow long and white. Keep seedlings of cabbage until the end of May, and sometimes until June. When planting seedlings, use remedies for carrot, cabbage and onion flies - insecticide bazudin, INTA-Vir, ash, tobacco dust. Just be sure to protect the onion pen from processing.
- Early varieties of potatoes, taken out of the cellar back in mid-April for germination, can be planted in the ground in early May and covered nonwoven fabric. With more late varieties take your time - remember that in Russia they always planted potatoes on Nikola - on May 22.
- Primroses that have faded on the balcony can be planted in a shady place in the garden - they will grow well.
- At the end of May, many ornamental shrubs have time to bloom. Tidy them up by removing dried bunches.
- Take a break from the beds and visit the garden - mulch the ground around the berry bushes. Blooming apple trees, cherries, currants are protected by smoke (collect all waste in advance in small piles). It will help from frost and spraying with water. Very small bushes can be covered with foil. If you have a pheromone trap prepared, hang it a meter and a half from the ground on an apple tree during flowering. One trap will save 7-8 trees from the apple codling moth. Fruit trees before flowering and immediately after it are well sprayed with foundation. But during flowering, any crops are protected from spraying. Examine the trees and bushes planted in autumn, and lightly trample the ground around the circumference.
- Lay strawberry aisles with straw - both fertilizer and weed are less, and ripe berries will be comfortable. When the buds are tied, treat the bushes with karbofos from pests.
- As soon as the currant blooms, carefully inspect the bushes: without regret, dig out the bushes affected by terry and burn them. After flowering, immediately spray it with Bordeaux mixture from pathogenic fungi. A little later, you can spray the bushes with karbofos - this will protect them from the gooseberry moth.
- By the end of May, branches frozen in winter become clearly visible - they must be cut. It is not too late to fertilize the lawn and add soil to the joints between the pieces of sod. Where necessary, grass is sown.
May garden decor ideas:
- Set aside a couple of hours to decorate the flower beds: until the site is overgrown with grass, it is easy to dig in fences or improvised materials imitating them (for example, plastic bottles).
- Do not burn the most unusual of the cut branches: they can give originality alpine slide and the mystery of the usual garden bench. It's time to install flowerpots in the garden with flower seedlings. Sand an unusual driftwood, coat it with varnish and casually “forget” next to the flower bed. Nearby, place a couple of cheerful "ladybugs" made of stones in the spring.
May requires a lot of strength from the gardener and gardener, May does not allow a single day to rest from worries. Plantings require careful watering, and soon weeding. And you should not miss the warm May day, if you have long dreamed of decorating the garden with a coniferous tree - it's time to plant it. As soon as there is a free hour, the owner of the garden takes over the repair of paths and garden buildings. But how generously May feeds the whole family with natural vitamins! Cut into a salad without restrictions young nettles, goutweed, dandelions, last year's parsley and perennial onion- all the substances necessary for the body are contained in the spring "pasture" grass.
What to do in orchard in May, so that later you don’t have to “toil” and regret the lost harvest? Doctor of Agricultural Sciences Valery MATVEEV will help summer residents plan a full schedule of work.
GARDEN WORK IN MAY
- Treatment of fruit trees from diseases and pests
- Frost Protection
- Installation of trapping belts
- Removal of root growth
- Weeding and loosening tree trunks
May, from the beginning of budding to the end of flowering, - right time for grafting fruit trees. Active sap flow during this period contributes to good survival, primarily on pear and apple trees; but in stone fruits (cherries, sweet cherries, plums, cherry plums, apricots) causes gum disease. Therefore, vaccinations on these trees are best done either before flowering, or already at its very end. The easiest method is for the bark, because. at this time she is well behind.
Many amateur gardeners dream of creating almost a “tree-garden”, but they cannot come to a consensus on how many varieties can be planted per plant without harming it ...
Yes, at least 10-15! But! With grafting, you can bring a new tree into the crown of the grafted tree. viral infection, to which the rootstock (the tree itself) will be unstable, in contrast to the scion (cutting of a new variety). As a result, not only the graft will not take root, but the tree itself will begin to dry out. So it turns out that you can graft new varieties until you stumble upon a virus-infected variety.
ATpastyear from-for refundable spring frosts gardeners were left without a harvest. You can’t argue with the weather, but you don’t want to sit idly by either. What to do?
The simplest thing is to prepare smoke piles in advance: put stakes crosswise, drive one into the center. From below there should be dry branches, wood chips, straw manure, then comes wet material - manure, peat, sawdust, weeds, tops. Lightly compact the pile, sprinkle a thin layer of earth on top and sides. In the evening or at night, when the air temperature drops to +2 degrees, remove the stakes, and set fire to the heaps on the windward side. It needs to burn for a long time. With a weak burning pile, slightly raise the stakes, with a strong one, sprinkle with soil. Smoke saves from frosts up to -2 degrees, but this is provided that there is no strong wind, otherwise it will blow off the smoke screen.
At frosts down to -5 degrees, sprinkling is effective. Spray the crown thoroughly with water so that the plant is eventually covered
water-ice shell. The heat released when water freezes raises the temperature in plant tissues and thereby protects them from damage. And a small layer of ice is also a kind of insulator from frost.
But this method also has a nuance: it is useless to do sprinkling a day before freezing. Even if you carry out the procedure in the evening, and the frost will be at night, do not expect the desired effect. Spray should be done when frost occurs!
Skeptical. Such preparations, perhaps, strengthen the immunity of the plant, but did not observe a positive effect during frosts.
On the Internet they also write about thermal installations ...
They are more suitable for greenhouses. After all, you will not put a fan near each tree, otherwise there will be no result. Another problem during flowering is poor pollination ...
This is especially true for cherries. If the flowers of the apple tree secrete nectar well, then the cherry does not have so much of it, so the bees are in no hurry to fly to these trees. To lure them, at the beginning of flowering, I advise you to spray the crowns of cherries with sugar or honey syrup (500 g per 10 liters of water).
At abundant flowering enough trees to get an optimal yield so that even 1% of the flowers start
OUR REFERENCE
In dry weather, during flowering and ovary growth, watering trees is important, especially on sandy soils. This increases the humidity, which means that the flowers secrete nectar better - in other words, they become "tastier" for the bees.
Can flowering be delayed?
For guard blooming garden from frost subtracted on the Internet interesting experience. One amateur gardener in October mulches tree trunks with a mixture of peat and manure with a layer of up to 15 cm. By January, this shelter and the soil under it freeze by 10-15 cm. In winter, snow is regularly poured into the trunk circles (up to 35 cm), compacts it and pours sawdust (10-15 cm) on top, and snow again on them (the sawdust immediately freezes).
In spring, the top layer of snow melts, and the compacted layer with sawdust remains. “Under freezing” are both the mulch layer and part of the soil with roots. The awakening of flower buds on such a tree is delayed. And only at the end of the first decade of May (everything depends on spring) the gardener removes sawdust from the near-trunk circle - the snow melts quickly, and the tree comes to life. It turns out that the development of the plant is "late" by about 2 weeks, but it "leaves" frosts.
Sergey BRUTSKII
WORD TO THE SPECIALIST
The beginning of the growing season and the flowering of the tree do not directly depend on the work of the root system. Here is important outdoor temperature air: at +20 degrees, and above, flower buds bloom quickly. Leaving snow under the tree covered with mulch, we delay the development of the root system. But, I repeat, not flowering! And this is what we get: the crown is blooming, and the roots are still “sleeping”. As a result, the tree weakens, the flowers, and later the fruits that have set, fall off. So I do not advise.
| PREVENTIVE GARDEN PROTECTION | ||
| Problem | Description | Control measures |
| Moniliosis | Fungal disease, which especially affects cherries, sweet cherries, apricots. Infection - during flowering. The ovary dies, the fruit twigs dry out. | Treat the trees before flowering with a fungicide (Fundazol, Skor - according to the instructions). |
| plum sawfly | Caterpillars eat away the stone from the fruit and eat the pulp. Young larvae damage the ovaries. | 2-3 days before flowering, spray plums with Novaktion (13 ml per 10 liters of water) or Fufanon (10 ml per 10 liters of water). Repeat the treatment immediately after flowering. |
| cherry fly | Pests lay their eggs in the fruits of cherries and cherries. Later, larvae appear that eat the pulp. The berries rot and fall off. | At the end of flowering, treat the trees with an insecticide (BI-58, Karate, Decis, Kinmiks - according to the instructions). |
Work in the first half of May
fruit crops
- Before flowering, water the garden at the rate of 1.5-2 buckets of water for each year of the tree's life.
- Plant cuttings of black and red currants and sea buckthorn.
- Feed young apple trees, pears, plums, cherries growing on poor soil with nitrogen.
- Treat the garden with a solution of insecticides against aphids and other pests.
- Spray strawberries with a solution of ash, copper sulfate or the Rizoplan preparation to protect against gray rot.
Protecting the garden from diseases and pests
Pesticides in the garden are used only in case of emergency and always before flowering. We can recommend an aqueous emulsion of karbofos (20-30 g per 10 liters of water), which is used in early May against sucking pests (aphids, suckers, mites, ditovka) and some leaf-eating. A good effect is given by a solution of chlorophos (15-20 g per 10 liters of water) - against leaf-eating pests, weevils, sawflies. However, it is not recommended to use this remedy on berry bushes and vegetable plants. You can use 3% Bordeaux liquid against scab during budding of apple and pear trees. A suspension of colloidal sulfur (10 g per L0 l of water) is applied against bud mites on blackcurrant during budding or after flowering. Spraying with this solution is carried out on a warm day, after which the bushes are closed for 1-2 hours with a film.
vegetable crops
- Plant potatoes.
- Sow carrots and beets winter storage.
- Complete the planting of seedlings of cauliflower and early white cabbage in open ground.
"Enlarge" the seeds
If the earth is not filled with organic and mineral fertilizers, any complex fertilizer should be added for digging at the rate of 25-30 g per 1 sq. m. The surface of the soil is leveled, and sowing is carried out into it until the top layer has dried up. Usually this is done in rows every 20-30 cm, so that later it would be convenient to carry out inter-row processing. It is very convenient to use granulated seeds. To achieve accuracy, ordinary, especially small seeds can be “powdered” with toothpowder or mixed with sand. Do not water the beds after sowing - this leads to the formation of a soil crust, which delays the emergence of seedlings.
Sowing carrots and beets
In early May, carrots and beets are sown for winter storage. Vegetable crops are most often grown on flat surface. However, in recent times it has been proven that when planting on a ridge, the soil warms up faster and its temperature is 2-3 degrees higher, which is equivalent to moving the site 100-150 km to the south. Ridge sowing is especially important for carrots, since varieties with an elongated root crop are now predominant.
Ornamental crops
- Plant rose seedlings, gladiolus corms, dahlia root tubers, clematis.
- plant seedlings sweet pea, carnations Shabo and levkoy.
- Feed all perennial plants with a complete mineral fertilizer.
- Plant conifers.
- Prepare the soil for the lawn and sow lawn grass.
- Comb the existing lawn with a rake, removing the old grass (felt).
We plant gladioli
Before planting, the gladiolus corms are sorted out and carefully, so as not to damage the sprouts, remove the scales. Babies don't get rid of scales. In slightly affected corms, you can cut out sore spots and pour them very strong mortar potassium permanganate, and then sprinkle with crushed charcoal.
Immediately before planting, the corms are soaked for 15-30 minutes in a pink solution of potassium permanganate. The landing site is chosen high, well-drained. It should be prepared in autumn. In the spring, only nitrogen fertilizers are applied: ammonium nitrate - 30 g per square meter. m, or urea - 25 g.
Usually gladioli are planted on ridges 1-1.2 m wide. It is better if they are oriented from west to east, and the rows are oriented from north to south. The distance between rows is 20-25 cm, in rows - 10-20 cm, depending on the size of the corms, as well as on which varieties are used - small or large-flowered. A similar gradation is observed in relation to the planting depth, which should be from 6 to 12 cm.
Below are other entries on the topic "Cottage and garden - with your own hands"
You have completed the landscaping and landscaping of your backyard, it would seem that it is time to breathe a sigh of relief and enjoy the created beauty and comfort. But in practice, rest can be afforded only in the first week after completion of work. No matter how correctly you plant trees, create flower beds and a lawn, you cannot do without proper planting care. A new stage of work begins on the site - a long and lengthy one, and also requiring due attention and investment - this is garden care.
Green spaces (and other elements of landscape art) immediately after planting require special attention. In order for everything to take root, grow and develop normally, it takes a lot of effort. We provide services not only for the creation of gardens, but also for their further maintenance - qualified service.
In order to cope with this work on your own, the first thing we can recommend to you is to break the work into seasonal stages:
- spring garden care
- summer garden care
- autumn care and preparation of the garden for winter.
END OF SPRING (May)
VEGETABLE CROPS
Sow all vegetables before the end of the month.
Make sure there is no frost and plant seedlings of vegetable crops (peppers, tomatoes and eggplants).
Feed growing vegetable crops and apply fertilizer for future crops and plantings.
Carry out treatments against pests on potatoes, onions, cabbage.
Examine all crops for pests and diseases.
Carry out watering, do weeding and regular loosening.
Continue planting trees and shrubs.
The best planting plants with a closed root system.
Inspect your site for pests and diseases.
Protect your plants from pests and diseases by treating them regularly.
Timely watering will only benefit the plants.
Carry out top dressing, the best complex fertilizers with micronutrients.
Plant wild strawberries.
Tie up the raspberry shoots.
LAWS
At the end of spring, adjust the mower blades to the summer cutting height. Regular frequent mowing produces excellent herbage.
Aerate and scarify. Air your lawn.
Where there are bald spots, sow or lay sod.
Keep fighting weeds and moss. Weeds can be destroyed mechanically, and chemical. To combat mosses, special fertilizers are used that contain substances that kill moss. From simple means use ammonium sulfate and iron sulfate mixed with sand.
Water regularly newly laid lawns, especially during periods of drought. If necessary, roll in new lawns to increase seedling contact with the soil.
Feed nitrogen fertilizer, or complex mineral fertilizers containing trace elements. The rate of fertilizer depends on the condition of the lawn and the amount of last year's top dressing (20–60 g per sq. M).
Spend chemical treatments against diseases.
Prepare areas for new lawns. Leave them roughly dug up for the summer until fall sowing.
ORNAMENTAL PLANTS
Regularly remove wilted flowers and tidy up herbaceous plants.
Continue planting perennials and annual seedlings.
Thin out annual seedlings outdoors.
Transplant developing plants into large pots.
Continue tying perennials until they are too big.
Harden heat-loving annuals and flower bed plants.
Sow biennials.
Take containers and hanging baskets outside and plant plants in them when danger of frost has passed.
Plant dahlias and chrysanthemums.
Cut off the powerful alpine plants after flowering.
Take green actively growing cuttings.
Remove dead leaves of spring bulbs.
At the end of the month, plant or divide aquatic plants.
FRUIT AND DECORATIVE CROPS
Insulation material should be placed on wire frames or wooden slats. Good results are obtained by watering flowering strawberries by sprinkling.
Raspberry. Remove some of the young shoots if they thicken the bush too much. Kill weeds in the early stages of development by weeding.
Before flowering, water the garden at the rate of 1.5–2 buckets of water for each year of the tree's life. After the first spring processing immediately mulch the soil of the tree trunks (8-10 cm layer).
At the end of May, carry out a second top dressing with nitrogen if the leaves are light green.
Before flowering, prepare smoke piles (smoke bombs) to protect flowers and ovaries from frost.
Flowering plants from late damage spring frosts can be protected, like fruit trees, by smoking or sprinkling, or by covering them with plastic wrap.
GENERAL GARDEN MAINTENANCE
When frost sets in, start smoking or sprinkling the garden.
Cut the root and standard shoots into a ring.
For better fertilization of flowers, install beehives with bees in the garden.
Sprinkle trees in buds and after flowering with a mixture of trace elements.
Check the survival rate of plants in the autumn planting and 10-12 days after the spring planting.
Plants planted high and deep need to be corrected. Place new ones in the place of the dead.
Propolite at the end of the month autumn plantings from weeds and loosen the soil (in a row to a depth of 3–4 cm).
If, after loosening, you mulch the soil with peat, humus, manure, it will have to be processed much less frequently.
To protect the flowers from damage by late spring frosts, cover the strawberries with straw mats, matting, 3-4 layers of newspaper tape, and plastic wrap.
During flowering, loosen the soil, then mulch the soil (straw, film, dry leaves).
Keep the soil around the bushes in a loose, moist and weed-free state, for which loosen it at least once every 2–3 weeks to a depth of 5–8 cm near the bushes.
If there is a need to propagate highly productive bushes, lay the branches on layering, pinning them to the soil with hooks.
Check tree pegs and garters.
Tie up new shoots regularly.
Do regular weeding.
Watch for pests and diseases and take corrective action if necessary.
Mulch if necessary.
Water sensitive young plants during periods of drought.
If phosphorus and potash fertilizers, it's not too late to do it in May.
Trees in which the bark on the trunk is damaged by rodents, frostbites or affected by cancer, graft with a bridge.
Garden center "Dvorik",
Dneprodzerzhinsk