What fertilizers are applied to the soil in the fall in the garden? What supplements are the most effective? What fertilizers are nitrogen.

I live in the village. I moved from the city to the countryside and for the fourth year now I have been mastering the charms and difficulties of village life. Now spring has come, and the main thing we have is a vegetable garden. Urban fashionable conversations on topics that manure is so useful and whether to replace it with green manure, in our village they don’t lead. There is manure - there will be a harvest.

country classic

All Newest technologies cultivating the land is not for our villagers. Here they acted and act in the old fashioned way.

From fertilizers - only manure.

In autumn, after harvesting, they plow the ground on a horse or walk-behind tractor and spread manure on top. In the spring, manure is scattered again and plowed again. No crop rotation. Potatoes for years in the same field, in the beds are always the same garlic, cabbage, onions, beets and carrots.

In the greenhouse - cucumbers with tomatoes. When summer residents appeared and along with them black spandbond-lutrasil, the villagers began to use it - to plant strawberries on it. Apple trees are never fed or watered. Raspberries and currants are also not particularly worried. And everything grows and bears fruit. True, every year is different. But it is written off on the nature and weather.

The next door neighbor

One of my neighbors, a summer resident from the regional center, has vast experience in dealing with the land. Her garden is a picture: not a single extra blade of grass in the beds, and the paths between them are trampled down as if they were specially compacted. In greenhouses - thickets of cucumbers and tomatoes. Strawberries are the sea, zucchini are giants, onions are the size of an orange. The reason is increased nutrition. Literally everything is used here: manure, grass infusion, and chemical fertilizers. Now, in April, a neighbor from morning to evening with a shovel is intensively digging up all the beds.

garden experiment

My other neighbor, a resident of the capital, loves experiments. One day she was planting potatoes in straw. Alas, that summer there was an invasion of water rats and shrews - they ate everything. But the pumpkins last summer were a success. The experiment is as follows: they mowed the grass and left it, put several layers of newspaper on top, then a couple of buckets of earth, make holes and plant a pumpkin seed.

I love high beds. Did them in the following way: I dig a groove 30 cm deep, put branches, old boards, rags, grass, ash, a little earth on top and cover everything with spandbond. Tomatoes, peppers, zucchini, physalis grow well.

Fertilizer with manure - bet on organic matter

However, no matter what the beds and experiments, the earth still “wants to eat” in order to please us later. good harvest. In our village, they remember the old saying: "The earth is mother, and manure is father." Therefore, I also trust the classics. Forget about chemical fertilizers and concentrate on manure. The introduction of manure has little effect on the effectiveness of nitrogen fertilizer, but phosphorus and potash fertilizers weaken against the background of manure. You should always choose one thing, the earth does not need excesses.

Manure is a complete organic fertilizer, contains all the nutrients necessary for the plant and is a very effective remedy.

What is valuable in it? Magnesium and calcium reduce soil acidity. Microorganisms increase biological activity. Potassium and phosphorus are found in manure in a form available to plants. Manure nitrogen remains in the soil for a long time. Released from manure into the soil a large number of carbon dioxide, which is needed for photosynthesis and heat transfer.

Sometimes it is difficult to apply the exact amount of manure to the soil. In this case, I have a cheat sheet, I share:

The 10 liter bucket contains:

• 8 kg of fresh horse manure,
• 5 kg of manure on a bed of sawdust,
• 9 kg fresh cow manure
• 5 kg of bird droppings,
• 7 kg of humus,
• 12 kg of slurry.

What kind of manure can fertilize the garden

Horse dung- the best. Great for greenhouses and greenhouses. Already a week after laying in the greenhouse, its temperature rises to 60 °. It lasts for more than a month, and then drops to 30 °.

rabbit dung practically in no way inferior to the horse. But this is a rarer option, we have few rabbit farms.

Goat and sheep manure is also an excellent material for biological heating. in early spring.

cow dung- warms up only to 50 ° and cools down after a week.

Pig manure - similar in quality to cow manure, it is better to use both of them for later greenhouses and greenhouses when the sun comes up.

bird droppings- effective, but use in excessive amounts can damage both the aerial parts and the roots of plants. From bird droppings, goose and duck droppings act more gently.

Assorted from different types manure- welcome.

Dunginstruction

Manure is stored in dense piles without oxygen access and loose heaps with air access. The first option, I think, is better. So it is better to save all of it beneficial features. The term of overheating of manure is up to six months.

I defend the liquid manure mass before use. Then I put the solid sediment into the soil, and dilute the remaining liquid with water 5-6 times and water the plants with it. It is mainly a nitrogen-potassium fertilizer. It goes very well with cabbage and root crops. Just make sure the plants are well watered first. Love this kind of food fruit crops. It can even be sprayed on plants with powdery mildew.

How and how much to apply manure

Making manure in the garden and in the garden - sharing experience

The worms are roaring - the earth is resting!

In autumn I buy a fresh manure machine. I make a litter of straw and grass, I put the brought manure on it. I put cabbage leaves, carrot tops, etc. on this pile. I periodically water a bunch, I cook food for earthworms. Please note: fresh cattle manure should lie for at least six months, rabbit manure - two to three weeks, and pig manure - a year and a half.

In spring and summer, I also periodically water a bunch. In July-August, I populate with earthworms, which I dig out on the site or take from the heap of the previous year. Worms are the best doctors, cooks and tasters of the earth in the world. There are California worms, they are more efficient, but too capricious - they need a certain temperature.

When I harvest tomatoes, cabbage, peppers and other vegetables, I do not uproot them, but cut them down with a shovel or an ax: there are a lot of earthworms on the roots. In autumn, they begin their breeding season.

So, preparatory work over, now we start preparing the soil for the new season. Let's look at this with an example winter garlic. When and how to plant winter garlic, they wrote more than once. But what to do then?

Taking into account our climate, I harvest garlic on July 15-20. I dig the vacated area onto the bayonet of a shovel. I throw the earth on the side of the road - it turns out a trench. In this trench I lay the green mass of grass, straw. I strongly trample down with my feet and bring in the compost along with earthworms taken from the heap of the previous year. Compost rate - 20 kg per 1 sq. m, as recommended by scientists.

All gardeners know that almost immediately after harvesting, you need to prepare the site for the next season - dig up the ground and apply fertilizer. At first glance, this seems like an elementary task, but in reality, everything does not look so simple - the process requires certain conditions to be met, otherwise the result will be far from expected. How is the digging of the earth carried out in the fall, and what rules must be followed in order to get good fruit in future?

Before autumn digging was considered obligatory step soil care, and after the onset of the first cold weather, all owners of land in without fail took up shovels. Today, many gardeners and gardeners consider it a useless and even harmful event, and its adherents and opponents cite various arguments in defense of their point of view.

Arguments for"

If you believe the arguments that are made in favor of seasonal digging, the procedure significantly improves the characteristics of the soil and increases the chances of getting a good harvest.

Attention! Digging the earth should not be confused with loosening - in the first case, the soil is thrown in a vertical direction, affecting its deep layers, and in the second, only the top layer is exposed.

Arguments against"

Opponents of autumn digging argue that intervention in the deep structures of the soil leads to negative consequences and contributes to the disruption of the processes that occur there, which is why the earth has to recover for a long time.

Important! Earthworms can really be called best friends gardeners and gardeners, therefore it is categorically not recommended to destroy these animals.

Do I need to dig the earth in the fall

Adherents and opponents of seasonal digging of the earth agree on one thing - in the autumn, the soil requires appropriate processing. Instead of wielding a shovel, some gardeners choose to mulch the beds, that is, they are covered with mowed grass or hay, sometimes with compost. True, such an event is more time-consuming and is far from suitable for all regions - in places with high humidity fungi or other pathogenic microorganisms can settle under the mulch, which will cause plantings to hurt.

At the same time, digging the earth should not be abused either. Experienced gardeners recommend holding such an event only in the following cases:

Loose and sandy soils do not need deep working - they should be loosened well enough, and only areas with a large number of weeds should be dug up. Frequent digging in such areas is harmful, as they can disrupt the natural structure of the soil. It is not recommended to carry out the procedure in areas of water and wind erosion, as well as on too wet and swampy soils.

Advice! The humidity in the area can be checked using simple test- take a handful of earth and crush it a little in your hands. If the lump is well formed, but the hands remain clean, then the soil moisture is optimal, if dirt remains on the palms, the moisture is excessive, and if the lump does not form at all, it is insufficient.

Terms of digging the earth in the fall

It is necessary to dig up the earth before the first frost and snow, when the temperature is set at 10-19 degrees. It is not worth carrying out the procedure during heavy precipitation - snow buried deep into the ground will make it difficult to warm it up in the spring, and digging during periods heavy rains will only compact the earth. If you dig up the garden when the sun is still shining with might and main outside the window, beneficial microorganisms will die, and the layers will dry out too much. Optimal time to start the event - the end of September or the beginning of October.

On average, digging is recommended to be carried out 15 cm deep, but it is also necessary to take into account the types of plants that will grow in one or another part of the garden - for root crops, the depth is 25-30 cm, for other crops 12-15 cm. just shift, cleaning out the roots of weeds, and do not break large earthen piles - they will not allow the soil to compact during heavy rainfall.

In addition, it is recommended to immediately designate the scope of work - arrange the site into beds and passages, lay them with stones or turf, and then dig up the plots intended for planting. If the garden is located on a slope, digging should always go across it, and on steep slopes it is better to arrange the beds with ledges.

As a tool for work, you can choose a well-sharpened bayonet shovel or "American". For shallow digging or loosening, you can choose a pitchfork - with their help, you can effectively “comb out” the roots of weeds. It is better to dig large areas with a walk-behind tractor or a cultivator - the process will go much faster and more efficiently.

Important! Digging your garden in the fall can make it easier spring processing land, but will not be able to replace it, and if the deadlines for the event are missed, it is better to refuse it - mistakes during its implementation will cause serious harm to the soil.

Video - Digging the earth in autumn

What fertilizer to apply to the ground in the fall

One of the stages of soil treatment, which is carried out along with digging or loosening, is top dressing of the soil, which will increase its fertility and saturate it with nutrients. Especially in this procedure, loamy and clay soils are needed, which in winter period compressed so much that almost nothing grows on them.

They need to be dug into autumn period and apply one, and sometimes several types of fertilizers. The procedure requires compliance with certain conditions, primarily the amount and frequency of application of nutrients.

Table 1. Fertilizers for the soil.

The general rule that applies to almost all fertilizers is that it is not recommended to apply them too deeply (especially for organic mixtures), otherwise they will not decompose, but oxidize, which will significantly worsen the composition of the soil.

At proper conduct and observing all the conditions, autumn digging of the garden will significantly improve the characteristics of the soil, increase its fertility and the chances of getting a good harvest.

In the spring, one of the main tasks is to fertilize the soil. What fertilizers to choose for this and how to fertilize the land in the spring in the country, if there is no manure? This will be discussed in this article.

Often used as a fertilizer garden plots siderats are used more and more often. Siderates are plants that are sown and then plowed into the ground, thereby improving its composition. The following crops are used as green manure crops:

• buckwheat;
• wheat
• oats;
• lupine;
• mustard and some other plants.

When sowing plants for fertilizer, those of them are selected that have well-developed roots and a large amount of vegetative mass. Such plants should have a short growth period, which is why they are planted as green manure. . What plants to plant to improve the soil depends on its condition. Grain crops planted as fertilizer are equal in productivity to horse or cow manure.

Green manure is often used as a fertilizer in garden plots.

The root system of such plantings is well branched, it loosens the soil, while enriching it with oxygen., the structure of the soil is improved, the upper layer of the earth is healed. In the process of growing such plantations, the soil is more saturated with moisture, its acidity decreases, and the soil is disinfected. And the soil retains these positive qualities for several years after growing green manure on it.

Legumes planted on the site saturate the soil with nitrogen and phosphorus. These elements contribute to the rapid growth of the vegetative mass. horticultural crops and fruit trees. And rye is a supplier of potassium to the soil. Rye grows very fast, so it can be used as a green manure not only in the autumn, but also in the spring, immediately after the snow melts. Marigolds or marigolds should be used to disinfect the area. In order to better deal with Colorado potato beetle on the site, you should regularly use parsnips or alfalfa as green manure.

When choosing what to plant on the site to improve the composition of the soil, it should be remembered that vegetable crops grow better after certain plants. Rye contributes better growth potatoes, tomatoes or cucumbers.

In spring, plants like green manure are usually planted in near-stem circles of fruit trees. These plantings throughout the season will improve the soil with minerals and nitrogen, will not allow weeds to grow and multiply, and at the time of flowering of fruit trees, these plants will attract flying insects and thereby improve the pollination of trees.

Organic fertilizers for summer cottages (video)

Fertilizing the land with manure in spring

In the spring, fresh manure is not introduced into the soil, because it can burn root system landed vegetable plants. Therefore, as a top dressing of the soil in spring time usually use rotted horse dung or cow. Usually, manure is harvested during the summer and autumn, and brought into the ground only in early spring. This organic fertilizer saturates the soil with nitrogen, which is essential for cultivated plants during the growth period - this microelement accelerates the growth of shoots and vegetative mass. In addition to nitrogen, manure contains other macro and microelements necessary for the full development of cultivated plants in the garden area.

Usually, manure should be applied to the soil immediately after the snow has melted. Usually, this organic fertilizer is spread over the area just before digging the soil after the ground has warmed up sufficiently after winter. However, when entering organic dressingsshould be remembered that their excess is also harmful to plants, as well as the shortage. 10 kg of manure is applied per 1 m 2 of soil - this amount of this organic fertilizer is quite enough to saturate the soil beneficial substances.

As top dressing of the soil in the spring, rotted horse manure or mullein is usually used.

If there is not too much manure to fertilize the entire garden with it, then this rotted organic fertilizer is applied directly to the planting holes.

As a feed in spring period slurry can also be used. It is prepared as follows: rotted manure is diluted with liquid (5 liters of water are taken per 1 kilogram of manure). Such liquid top dressing fertilize fruit trees and planted vegetable plants in spring. Particularly responsive to such feeding berry bushes, strawberry, apple, pear, stone fruit trees.

The introduction of rotted manure improves the composition of the soil, so it is also used as mulch. The introduction of this organic fertilizer helps plants absorb the applied mineral fertilizers faster and better. So experienced gardeners and introduce manure into the soil during the spring.

When there was no rotted manure in the spring, it can be replaced with wood ash

How to fertilize the land if there is no manure

When there was no rotted manure in the spring, it can be replaced with other organic matter. It can be:

• chicken manure;
• riding peat;
• rotted compost mass;
• sawdust from trees;
• straw;
• wood ash and other similar fertilizers.

These top dressings, when introduced into the soil, contribute to its loosening, enrich the depleted soil with the necessary macro and microelements, help build up the vegetative mass and develop all cultivated plants on the site.

How to apply mineral fertilizers (video)

When and how to feed the earth in spring with mineral fertilizers

In addition to organics, mineral additives should also be added in the spring. Gardeners select the composition of such fertilizers, taking into account the general condition of the soil, the crops that will be planted in specific areas, and many other factors.

Application term mineral dressings in the spring depends on when the snow melts in the garden. It is not worth scattering such dressings on the snow that has not melted. – most of fertilizers can “float away” with melt water. AT trunk circles bring in mineral fertilizers possible even when the ground has not completely thawed. But under the planted vegetable crops, mineral supplements are poured directly prepared holes.

The term for applying mineral dressings in the spring depends on when the snow melts in the garden.

In the spring, the following mineral fertilizers are applied to the soil:

1. containing nitrogen ( ammonium nitrate, urea, ammonium sulfate). These top dressings accelerate the gaining of vegetative mass by plants, stimulate the growth of the root system, and contribute to obtaining high yields.
2. Fertilizers containing phosphorus (superphosphates and double superphosphates) are also very important for plants in the spring. After all, these trace elements stimulate the growth of plants, as well as their development. The rate of application of such fertilizers is considered to be 1 glass per 1 m2.

Using mineral fertilizers as spring dressings, it is necessary to strictly adhere to all instructions for the use of these additives, as well as the doses required for application to the soil. This takes into account the types of soil in which fertilizers are applied, and those plants that need to be fed.

The main disadvantage when applying mineral dressings in the spring is their possible leaching from the soil during the spring rains.

When using mineral fertilizers as spring dressings, it is necessary to strictly adhere to all instructions for the use of these additives.

Features of the application of nitrogen fertilizers

When applying nitrogen fertilizers, the following features should be considered:

1. Nitrogen contributes to the growth of vegetative mass, rapid growth shoots and root system, therefore, it is applied under any plants and trees in a certain period - in spring and early summer - when these cultivated plants are actively growing. But during the period of flowering, fruiting and subsequent preparation for winter, nitrogen should not be applied so as not to provoke excessive foliage growth in trees and shrubs to the detriment of a ripening crop.
2. The amount of nitrogen in the soil should be sufficient for plants, but its excess is harmful. Therefore, you should not get carried away with the introduction of organic fertilizers (especially mullein or other types of manure) and adhere to certain standards when applying such fertilizers.

Nitrogen contributes to the growth of the vegetative mass, the rapid growth of shoots and the root system

Universal fertilizers for horticultural and horticultural crops

There are a large number on sale, in which all the necessary mineral elements and others are present. nutrients, necessary for plants. Making such complex dressings allows you to immediately introduce into the soil all the elements that are needed. And the composition of such fertilizers can be different- depending on the type of soil and the characteristics of the growth of cultivated plants grown on the site.

When using these dressings, you must follow the instructions for their use and in no case reduce or increase the dosage unnecessarily.

Autumn is the time when land owners prepare the soil for the next planting season. Most mineral and organic fertilizers for soil enrichment are applied in the fall before plowing. During the winter, they manage to be processed and saturate the soil with useful microelements necessary for the development of plants. Fertilizer, which is often used on household plots, is an ash rich in potassium and phosphorus.

Important trace elements for plants

Ash is an excellent organic fertilizer. It contains elements such as:

• potassium;
• phosphorus;
• calcium;
• copper;
• molybdenum;
• manganese.

The amount of minerals and trace elements contained in this raw material depends on the source material. Ash from straw, tops, grape stalks contains up to 40% potassium, from deciduous trees– up to 30%. And the remains from the combustion of wood conifers and shrubs are rich in phosphorus up to 10%.

This fertilizer contains all the listed trace elements in an easily accessible form for plants. They are quickly absorbed by the roots and actively influence the growth and flowering. The absence of chlorine contained in purchased fertilizers is indisputable advantage such raw materials.

Fireproof wood residues are an excellent plant growth stimulator

How to calculate the required application rate?

The use of combustion residues as a fertilizer in autumn contributes to the saturation and restoration of the balance of microelements in the earth, after harvesting. The ash is applied before digging and, after plowing, is evenly distributed in the soil, restoring its fertility over the winter.

Weight depending on the container used is as follows:

• a tablespoon - 6g;
• 250 ml glass - 100g;
• liter jar - 500g.

How to improve productivity?

We are constantly getting letters in which amateur gardeners are worried that due to the cold summer this year, a poor harvest of potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, and other vegetables. Last year we published TIPS about this. But unfortunately, many did not listen, but some still applied. Here is a report from our reader, we want to advise plant growth biostimulantswhich will help increase the yield by up to 50-70%.

Read...

Such an organic fertilizer is used on any type of soil: sandy and loamy, peat and sod-podzolic. But to make it, it is necessary to dose it, in accordance with the composition of the soil on the site and the planting pattern on next year. Application in autumn has an effect on heavy soils, but on light ones - a high percentage of trace elements is washed out by melt water. Therefore, such land is fertilized in the spring.

Why is it worth knowing in advance the scheme for planting garden crops for the next season? The more demanding the crop, the lighter the raw material used for fertilizer. wood ash used for feeding bushes and fruit trees, straw - for strawberries and cucumbers, herbal - for nightshade crops.

The introduction of raw materials in the fall before digging occurs at the rate of 1 kg per 1 sq.m. During the winter, the ash is processed, acidity decreases, and to spring plantings the soil is already saturated with the main trace elements. If the land on the site is fertile (for example, black soil), then the volume can be reduced to 500 g, and if it is scarce (sandy and loamy), then increase to 1.5-2 kg per 1 sq.m.

Ash has an alkaline reaction, therefore, when introduced into the ground in large quantities harmful to microorganisms, soil bacteria and earthworms.

Crops that require autumn feeding with ash

Good growth, increased yields, improved frost resistance responds to fertilizing with ash grapes. Fertilize in autumn after picking berries. 4 buckets of ordinary water are poured under each bush, and 1 glass of ash is dissolved in the fifth bucket and the vine is fed in this way.

In autumn, strawberry bushes are fertilized with ash, adding half a glass under each plant. Such top dressing for the winter enriches the bushes with all useful substances. If strawberry leaves are cut off for the winter, then the introduction of organic matter is necessary for the formation of new healthy shoots in the spring.

Fertilizer with ash of cherry and plum trees is carried out 1 time in 3 years. A 10 cm deep groove is dug near the trunk, 100 g of raw materials are poured into it and the hole is buried.

Currant bushes, gooseberries and raspberries respond well to top dressing. As well as ornamental plants. For example, such as peonies, clematis, roses, lilies, hyacinths, chrysanthemums, perennial asters.

After autumn fertilizer soil grow well cucumbers, cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes, pumpkins. For the winter, a 2 cm layer of ash is sprinkled with beds of winter garlic and onions. All of these crops continue in the spring and summer while growing.

What can ash be used for?

The ash remaining after the autumn application is stored in dense wooden boxes or bagged in dry places, as the ingress of water leaches out the potassium.

Gardeners and gardeners actively use the ash solution not only as a fertilizer, but also for pest control. It negatively affects aphids, wireworms, fleas, nematodes, slugs, onion and carrot flies, caterpillars and snails. To prepare it, 1 glass of raw materials and 50 g of soap are dissolved in 10 liters of water, mixed well and sprayed with grapes, cabbage, strawberries, currants, onions, carrots. Processing is carried out in cloudy, not rainy weather.

Do-it-yourself preparation of excellent nourishment for the soil

Is rock ash used in the garden?

Unlike wood ash, stone ash contains no potassium, no phosphorus, no calcium. As a top dressing for all types of plants, it is not at all suitable. However, it contains over 60% silicon oxides, so it can be used as a fertilizer on clay soils for loosening and drying. Another important element sulfur comes out of the composition, therefore, when it is applied, the soil is oxidized.

Stone ash in combination with calcium nitrate, urea, manure or manure can be applied in autumn on neutral soils at the rate of 3 kg per 1 weave for future beds with onions, garlic, cabbage, mustard, radish.

Conclusions to note

1. The ash is crushed and sieved so that the nutrients are quickly absorbed by the plants.
2. Do not combine the simultaneous application of ash and nitrogenous fertilizers (manure, droppings, urea), upon contact, a reaction occurs and ammonia is released. The alternation of dressings should be with a break of 3-4 weeks.
3. Do not feed plants that grow only on acidic soils(blueberries, cranberries, rhododendrons, azaleas).
4. Do not use this fertilizer on lands with an alkaline reaction, it can slow down the germination of seeds and stop the growth of crops.
5. Do not use ashes from incineration printed publications, painted products, as the composition includes chemicals and heavy metals (lead).
6. When grinding, sieving and applying, avoid getting small particles on the mucous membrane of the eyes and in the respiratory tract.
7. Ash has no expiration date.

Organic origin, the absence of chemical components, low price, availability, easy digestibility by plants, proven effectiveness - all these arguments play a role when gardeners and gardeners choose ash as a fertilizer.

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Attention, only TODAY!

The recycling of human waste has occupied scientists around the world for more than a decade. A global solution is being sought. Many summer residents are also looking for a one-size-fits-all toilet solution. suburban area. A free base for fecal-based fertilizer or so-called "human dung" is harvested along with the usual compost heap. The use of manure, including human, is used quite widely. This method has a lot of adherents and the same number of opponents.

What are waste

The idea to use valuable, and most importantly, free raw materials as fertilizer for your own garden visits many summer residents. But the idea is not new and has been known since Ancient Greece. In Russia, feces are known as "night gold", in England "night fertilizer". In Japan, a similar source of fertilizer was even bought and sold.

A mixture of human waste is considered valuable and effective organic fertilizer. Every year, an adult emits an average of about 0.5 tons of waste. 2/3 of human waste consists of the remains of digested and undigested food. AT cesspools and conventional country toilets the mass contains nitrogen (0.5–0.8%), phosphorus (0.3–0.5%), potassium (0.2–0.4%).

The danger of using fecal matter

It is unacceptable to use pure human feces for many reasons. Firstly, this is the usual disgust and fetid smell of the garden, which will not disappear for a long time.

Thirdly, negative changes in the physical and chemical structure soil. In addition to useful compounds for plants, feces contain a large amount of chlorine and sodium, heavy metal impurities. The soil is subjected to sun exposure, a strongly alkaline environment arises, which is detrimental to many plants.

Compost toilet for a summer cottage

A dry closet with the possibility of composting can be purchased or made independently. A composting toilet practically does not differ from other types of dry closets, it is safe to use and does not require electricity to operate. Such models have a number of advantages:

• The addition of peat or sawdust creates a dry environment without fermentation.
• No unpleasant odor
• Lack of ventilation pipes drain hose does not attract insects
• A sufficiently large tank is emptied once a year
• The filler promotes the processing of the mass into compost

You can make a compost toilet in the country from simple available building materials. The main components for building: a wooden base, a plastic or wooden case, a removable seat. Materials for manufacturing:

• Drawing or sketch of a structure
• Wooden parts and blanks according to the dimensions of the sketch
• 4 identical plastic containers with lids
• Locksmith tool kit
• Filler ( sawdust or peat)
• Peat container, scoop or spatula

The prepared parts are connected according to the sketch using nails, self-tapping screws and glue. A filler is placed in the base container, which is changed after each use.

Farmers all over the world traditionally use compost pits and heaps. Raw materials based on feces are no exception. Cold composting is unacceptable in this case. To obtain a safe fertilizer, it is required heat inside the compost heap.

Raw materials for the preparation of fertilizers are laid like ordinary compost. Alternate plant waste, manure and peat, you can add garden soil. The hot cooking method requires the use of special preparations that accelerate the process of starting “burning” (“Baikal M1”, “Tamir”, “Urgas”, etc.).

Despite the presence of EM preparations, such a fertilizer is prepared for a long time, up to 1.5 years.

Should I use feces-based fertilizers?

Modern technologies for waste processing and fertilizer production are constantly evolving. In the USA, Britain, Japan, this industry is quite extensive. From faeces and manure, phosphate and nitrogen fertilizers, biohumus and complex fertilizers such as Mylogranite. Industrial processing includes heat treatment, disinfection and other manipulations.

The resulting fertilizer is used to fertilize stadium fields, golf courses and other landscape works. For gardens and growing crops is not used.

It is definitely impossible to use fresh manure based on feces.

All types of manure can lead to burns of the root system of plants and the death of plantings.

Also unsuitable fresh material for the preparation of tinctures and solutions. A breeding ground for germs and bacteria will result in a fermented solution that is unusable.

Whether to fertilize your own garden with manure or compost made from human waste is an easy decision. Safety for human health must come first. Security optimal conditions processing such specific raw materials is not an easy task. Heavy metals and concentrated salts accumulate in vegetables and root crops. You can only use those types of fertilizers that you are 100% sure of.