Myrtle tree reproduction. Creating optimal conditions for a shrub or tree

evergreen woody plant Myrtle belongs to the Myrtle family. In nature, these are trees or shrubs that can reach a height of three meters. Indoor plant myrtle at home is a bush with a round crown no more than one meter high. The plant has long been considered a symbol of hope, peace and glory. Myrtle flowers were used by our ancestors for cosmetic and medicinal purposes. Popular drugs from them today. Houseplant lovers willingly grow a beautiful tree in their homes. Knowing how to properly care for myrtle, you can get an optimally shaped plant that will decorate the house with its leathery small leaves and simple or double fragrant flowers.

Myrtle plant - description, photo

A tree at home grows in height from 30 to 60 cm. It has elongated, small, leathery leaves that seem polished. The leaves have a pointed top and grow on short petioles. In summer, in the axils of the leaves, brushes of single or double flowers, or single flowers are formed. After flowering, fruits ripen on the plant, which are a berry or a nut.

IN indoor floriculture most often grown myrtle ordinary (communis), the care of which we will describe in detail in our article.

The world is ordinary - care at home

Myrtle communis (common) is a small tree with a short branched trunk. It has red-brown bark, leathery, glossy, oval-lanceolate green leaves, and white or pale pink flowers. Stamens protrude from the middle of the flower. The leaves of the plant have a pleasant aroma. It blooms throughout the summer, after which red-black berries form on the tree.

Myrtle is recommended to be grown on windows on the west and east sides. On the southern windowsills in the summer it will need to be shaded, for which you can use a tulle curtain. When grown on northern window sills, flowering will be poor.

Air temperature. Indoor myrtle does not like heat and grows well at air temperatures in the range of + 18 ... + 20 degrees. It is recommended to ventilate the room regularly. In winter, the plant needs to provide cool conditions with an air temperature of +5 to +10 degrees. With more high temperature in winter time year, the flower may shed its leaves.

Air humidity. Myrtle needs high humidity air, therefore, in spring and summer, its leaves must be regularly sprayed with settled water at room temperature. In winter, when low temperatures indoor spraying is not needed. But, if it is not possible to provide the plant with cool conditions, spraying should be carried out several times a day. From working heating radiators at home, the air becomes dry, which is why leaves fall from the tree. To avoid this, around the plant you need to increase the humidity. To do this, you can use special humidifiers or put a flower pot on a pallet with wet expanded clay or moss.

Watering myrtle. Water the tree in spring and summer abundantly, as soon as it dries upper layer soil. In winter, in a cool room, the frequency and abundance of watering decreases. In no case should the earthen clod be allowed to dry out! Otherwise, the leaves may fly around from the houseplant, dry into the twigs. If the soil is still dry, place the pot for a few minutes in a container of water. Also, do not allow the soil to be wet all the time. Constant waterlogging of the soil can lead to root rot. Water for irrigation is used separated during the day.

Top dressing myrtle. From March to August, once a week or two, the flower must be fed with fertilizers for flowering plants. If the myrtle is grown as a bonsai and you are not interested in its flowering, then fertilizers are used that are intended for decorative leafy plants.

rest period. Myrtle definitely needs a period of rest, during which he gains strength for flowering and growing foliage. Therefore, in winter, the plant is grown for three months in cool rooms. You can put a flower on a closed loggia, where the air temperature does not drop below +5 degrees. At this time, watering should be scarce, and fertilizing and spraying should be stopped. In a warm room, the dormant period of myrtle lasts about one and a half months.

pruning myrtle. To give the tree the desired shape, pruning should be included in the care of the myrtle at home. It can be carried out in early spring and after flowering. To get a small tree, pruned side shoots. A plant in the form of a bush will turn out by trimming the upper branches. If you do not cut the myrtle completely, then it will take pyramidal shape. However, it should be remembered that frequent pinching negatively affects the formation of flowers, so it is not recommended to get carried away with pruning. If flowering is not too important for you, then you can experiment and pinch the branches. Houseplant myrtle grows quickly, so it appearance can be changed every year.

Myrtle transplant

should be transplanted into new ground one to two weeks after purchase. In the future, young plants are transplanted every year, and adults - one glad in two to three years. The new pot should be 2-3 cm larger than the previous one. The substrate can be bought at the store or prepared independently. The following soil mixtures are suitable:

1. Sand, peat, turf and humus soil. Everything is taken in equal parts and mixes.
2. Sand, turf, humus, clay, peat soil (1:2:2:2:2).

At the bottom of the pot, it is imperative to pour drainage, which is covered with a small layer of nutrient soil. The tree is carefully removed along with a clod of earth from the old pot and placed on a layer of soil in a new container. The roots around and above are covered with soil. The base of the trunk does not need to fall asleep. The transplanted myrtle must be watered immediately.

Pests and diseases of myrtle

Pests

At proper care and keeping the plant in favorable conditions for it, no diseases and pests will affect it.

High temperatures and dry air are favorable conditions for the appearance on the leaves of the tree scale insects, thrips, spider mite, mealybug, whitefly. All of them feed on the juice of the plant, which is why they begin to dry, turn yellow and fly around the leaves. Treatment with Aktellik or Aktara will help get rid of pests. These are insecticidal preparations that should be diluted and used strictly according to the instructions.

This situation can arise if the rules for caring for myrtle at home were not followed. Myrtle leaves dry for the following reasons:

1. Irregular watering. If you forget to water the plant, and the soil often dries up, then not only the leaves, but also the twigs will begin to dry.
2. Low air humidity. In winter, the air temperature for the flower should not exceed +18 degrees. In a room with working heating radiators, the air becomes dry, which is why the leaves begin to dry and fall off. Spray the foliage in a dry and warm room more often and more abundantly. Keep it on a tray with wet expanded clay, pebbles or moss, but so that the water does not reach the bottom of the pot.

myrtle leaves fall

This situation may arise in the following cases:

• lack of light;
• high air temperature;
• the plant stands in a draft.

With excessive lighting (in summer on the southern windows), the leaves lose their luster, turn yellow and curl. If there is not enough light for the plant, then the stems are drawn out, and the leaves grow pale and small.

As you can see, all the problems when growing myrtle at home arise due to improper flower placement or care errors. Take care of the plant according to all the rules described above, and it will delight you with a beautiful, lush crown and flowering.

Cutting is the most reliable and The best way myrtle breeding. Its seeds quickly lose their germination, in addition, when seed propagation flowering will come only after three years.

Cuttings can be taken from friends after the formative pruning of the tree. It is best if they are from the middle or lower part of the crown. Rooting cuttings should be carried out in January, February and July. For cuttings, semi-lignified shoots of the current year are selected, 8 to 10 cm long.

Procedure for rooting cuttings:

1. The lower leaves are removed from the cut shoot.
2. Large leaves located at the top are shortened by half, and small ones by a third of the length.
3. The lower cut is processed with a root formation stimulator (Heterouxin or Kornevin).
4. A wide and low container is being prepared.
5. The soil for rooting should consist of sand and sphagnum (0.5: 1) or sand and leaf ground (0,5:1).
6. The cuttings are placed in moist soil and covered glass jar or other transparent cap.
7. The containers are placed in a shady place with an air temperature in the range of + 17 ... + 20 degrees.
8. So that the soil does not turn sour, the shelter needs to be removed for a short time every day.

In about a month, the roots will grow, and the cuttings are planted in separate pots with a diameter of about 7 cm. soil mixture the same is used. Care for young seedlings consists in regularly moistening the soil and spraying the foliage. It is necessary to ensure that the soil does not dry out.

When the cuttings grow up, which will happen in about a year, the plants are transplanted into pots, the diameter of which should be 9 cm. Rooted and grown bushes should be cared for in the same way as for adult trees.

Myrtle properties

The plant has healing properties, as its fruits and young shoots contain active substances and essential oils with antibacterial action. Therefore, it is recommended to keep the tree in children's rooms and bedrooms, where it will purify the air of bacteria and germs, protect health, and help cope with influenza and acute respiratory infections.

Myrtle tinctures help treat cough, purulent otitis media, staphylococcal infections, chronic bronchitis, pneumonia, and diabetes mellitus.

Myrtle - signs

IN different countries to cultivation room myrtle are treated differently.

In Europe, it is believed that the tree brings love and peace to the house. But this is possible if the hostess planted the bush and all family members are proud of their beautiful pet. The myrtle is carefully looked after so that the flower does not die. Otherwise, along with dead tree luck leaves the house.

Muslims do not keep myrtle in their homes, because according to their signs, it is believed that this plant condemns young girls and boys to loneliness.

beautiful tree with healing properties it is recommended to grow at home, while observing all the rules for caring for it. Mirt needs a family hearth, so he is not suitable for offices and public institutions.

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Every year the popularity of myrtle is growing. It is propagated by seeds and cuttings. Beginning flower growers can choose any of these methods.

Reproduction methods

cuttings for reproduction it is better to harvest in May, August and November. This is due to the undulating growth of the myrtle. Green cuttings root better than semi-lignified cuttings. I cut them about 10 cm long, cut the leaves from the bottom.

There are two options for rooting:

1. I put the cuttings in a vessel with water at room temperature in a warm, bright place (but not under direct sunlight). With regular water changes, the process will take about a month (maybe more). As soon as the roots grow to 3-5 cm, I transplant the myrtle into the ground.

2. I plant cuttings in a loose, moist substrate or sand. Be sure to cover with a film or glass and put in a bright (not sunny) place with a temperature of 20-23 ° C. I sometimes ventilate the soil to prevent souring.

Plants obtained by cuttings bloom in the 2-3rd year.

Another breeding option seeds. If they are fresh, then the germination rate is quite high, but in biennials it decreases sharply. The best time for planting is spring (March).

I prepare the substrate from soddy soil, peat and sand (2: 2: 1). I spread the seeds on the surface of moist soil, lightly sprinkle with the same soil and, having covered with glass, put in a warm (not lower than 18 ° C) and bright place, but without direct sunlight. After about 7-10 days shoots appear.

When two true leaves grow, the seedlings dive. In the future, as I grow, I transfer the myrtle into larger flowerpots. Plants obtained from seeds bloom only in the 5th year.

Aftercare

soil mix I cook from humus, turf, leafy soil and sand in equal parts. Young plants annually in spring transplanting into larger pots. At the same time, I make sure not to deepen the root collar. I transplant mature plants every 2-3 years.

During the growth period, myrtle is demanding on light but does not like direct sunlight. An earthen ball should be constantly wet but not waterlogged. And stagnation cold water, and the drying of the soil leads to the dropping of foliage and even the death of the plant. Crown of myrtle optional I spray water, especially on hot days and in winter, when the air dries up heating systems. In summer, myrtle can be taken out to the balcony or taken to the country. During this period, the plant is actively developing.

In winter due to being too dry air it often happens that the leaves dry up and fall off, the shoots wither. In this case, the plant must be placed in a mini-greenhouse, sprayed with a growth stimulator, occasionally and little by little watered and ventilated. If the roots are alive, young leaves will appear after a while. Dead shoots can be cut in March.

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For lovers of light and natural flavors myrtle is best suited: it helps to improve indoor air, improve the atmosphere, and its leaves are used as medicinal product. In addition, it is grown to create a bonsai tree. And among the variety of varieties, you can choose suitable ones for both beginners and experienced flower growers: care is not difficult, but you should still remember some features.

Myrtle - plant features

The homeland of myrtle is the Mediterranean, but it also grows in North Africa (in Europe it freezes after the first frost). Depending on the variety, a heat-loving plant in the form evergreen shrub in these parts reaches a height of 3.5 m, due to which it is grown as garden culture in tubs or open field. The bush is even cut to give the crown the desired shape.

A bright representative of the family is ordinary myrtle. It is a shrub up to 2 m high with dark green leathery leaves and small white or pink fragrant flowers. The fruits are edible black berries, on which the flower calyx is attached.

After flowering on the myrtle, dark fruits of a rounded or elliptical shape with seeds are formed.

There are many varieties of plants in the myrtle family. Interestingly, eucalyptus is also included in it. However, only a few varieties are suitable for the home. Caring for them is simple, but they need to create acceptable conditions, for example, high humidity air, ventilation and regular watering.

Indoor varieties

Despite modest diversity suitable varieties, the choice of myrtle for the home is, however, even more limited due to supply. The optimal way out is not to purchase in stores, but to grow cuttings from plants that have taken root with friends. If there is a choice, then it is better to pay attention to the varieties described below. They differ in the shape and size of the leaves, flower, fruit, and are also considered the most unpretentious and compact varieties:

1. Alhambra - dense, leathery leaves, white fruits and flowers.
2. Microphylla is a dwarf tree with small leaves.
3. Flore Pleno - characterized by fluffy, double flowers.
4. Tarentina is a fast growing tree with small leaves and abundant flowering(for example, Tarentina Granada, Tarentina Variegada, etc.).
5. Boethica is a slow growing tree, its trunk twists over time and has a rich cinnamon hue.

It is noteworthy that all of the listed varieties belong to the common myrtle species.

Photo gallery: home types of myrtle

Myrtle lends itself well to formation, so it is relatively easy to grow it in the bonsai style.

But the most original trees will come out of the Boethica variety and dwarf Microphylla: it is convenient to form their crown and trunk due to the slow growth and pliability of the shoots.

Landing and transplant

Transplantation of adult myrtle is best done once every 3-4 years, and young plants are transplanted annually in the spring. When transplanting myrtle, it is impossible to deepen the root neck of the plant: this can lead to various diseases or rot damage. A good layer of drainage must be laid out at the bottom of the pot.

General rules for transplanting myrtle:

1. Plants up to 3 years old are transplanted every year into a pot, 2–3 cm wider (enough to fit the root system) than the previous one, the roots are not cleared of the ground, they are transshipped and some fresh soil is added. And also the capacity for transplantation can be chosen based on the size of the crown of the plant: the volume of the pot should be half that of the crown of the plant.
2. Plants after 3 years are transplanted as they grow, when the roots completely entangle the land lump.
3. Transplantation is done in the spring, before flowering.
4. Young myrtle can be transplanted after flowering.
5. Every year, in adult plants, they change the top layer of soil that is not entangled with roots, cutting it off carefully with a knife and filling in a fresh portion. During this procedure root system do not process and generally try not to touch.
6. Myrtle has sensitive and tender roots, so they should not be injured during transplantation.
7. It is better to choose a ceramic and light pot so that the leaves do not get burned when its edges are heated.

If the above rules apply to both adults and the younger generation, then the following requirements are only suitable for a tree older than 3 years:

1. Prepare the ground.
2. Release the root system from some of the old soil, leaving a small clod to fill the pot with more than half of the new soil.
3. Plant in a new pot. In order not to damage the roots, you can wash them in warm water.
4. The plant is not deepened, for this they make a mark of the old ground level on the trunk.
5. Fill the voids with new soil.
6. Leave the plant alone for a few days.
7. Watering is acceptable after 7-15 days.
8. Start fertilizing myrtle no earlier than 1 month after transplantation.

Young myrtle trees are transplanted in the same way, but leaving more land on the roots and choosing soil with a different composition: a mixture of peat and coarse sand

For adult plants, they acquire slightly acidic ready soil or mix:

• peat;
• sod land;
• coarse sand.

Myrtle recommend slightly acidic soil Ph 6–6.5, all universal purchased soils have such acidity. The main thing is that the soil is loose, it passes water well. Water should not stagnate. Be sure to have good drainage at the bottom. Water for irrigation and spraying must be defended, if it is very hard, then it can be acidified.

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Expanded clay is usually used as drainage, but perlite is considered more effective, which can be mixed into the soil. Before use, the soil is sterilized and treated with fungicidal substances to avoid fungal infections.

Myrtle care

Caring for myrtle differs little from the standard. It is important to remember that he loves warmth during periods of activity, moisture and fresh air.

Table: conditions for keeping myrtle depending on the season

Watering and feeding

When the myrtle grows and blooms, it is abundantly watered with settled water at room temperature. Chlorine is detrimental to delicate roots, even a short contact with it will lead to sad consequences. The frequency of watering depends on many factors, but its need is determined by the condition of the soil: it is not allowed to dry completely. However, excessive watering guarantees acidification of the soil, rotting of the roots: the tree will throw off its leaves and stop developing.

Spraying (or periodic showers) will help to cope with drooping leaves, restore their elasticity and bright color. And also these procedures are the prevention of many diseases and the appearance of pests. Spray myrtle during the period of activity every day or several times a day. To facilitate maintenance and ensure suitable air humidity, which should be high, a humidifier is placed in the room or expanded clay is placed in the pot tray and watered. Spraying gives a short-term improvement in conditions: as soon as the moisture evaporates from the leaves, the myrtle will feel its lack.

Humidity can be raised by placing the pot with the plant on a pallet with wet expanded clay, just make sure that the bottom of the pot does not touch the expanded clay - that is, put the pot on the tray, and then put them on the pallet with wet expanded clay. Also, after transplanting, you should keep the plant under a transparent bag. It is necessary to make a hole in it for fresh air access, and make sure that mold does not form.

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The room in which myrtle grows is regularly ventilated, taking the plant itself to another room, where it will be protected from hypothermia.

This plant needs fresh air, but it is afraid of drafts and extreme cold.

Myrtle grows in direct sunlight. However, in the midday heat in the warm season, he is provided with protection, especially when he is on an open balcony.

Fertilizers help the tree grow, but they are used with caution. If you add a little humus when transplanting into the soil, then until the summer you can forget about ready-made formulations. In other cases, myrtle is fed with complex fertilizers in the spring, and after the beginning of flowering and until its end with nitrogen. This plant also perceives top dressing of roots or leaves in the form of spraying.

Flowering and fruiting period

Myrtle usually blooms in late spring or early summer. This period lasts about 2 months. With its onset, increase the amount of watering and the frequency of spraying.

For fruits to appear, insects are needed, however, at home, pollination in this way is almost impossible., Therefore, this is done manually with a brush

With active pruning and crown formation, the myrtle trunk does not bloom. If the appearance of the crown does not bother you, then you can speed up and intensify this process: then stop pruning and apply nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers.

For intensive flowering, myrtle is planted in a cramped pot so that it does not waste energy on the growth of shoots and the development of the root system.

rest period

Myrtle needs a rest period in winter to gain strength for the next season of rapid growth and intensive flowering. If in summer and warm spring for him the best place- balcony, loggia, garden fresh air, then in winter an adult plant feels better at a temperature of 6–12 ° C and without additional illumination. If the myrtle is left to winter in a warm room with normal lighting, then it is regularly sprayed, but watering is still reduced.

During the dormant period, which lasts from December to the end of February, watering is significantly reduced to 1-2 times a month and any top dressing is excluded. The plant is prepared gradually for the dormant period: they begin to lower the temperature in the room in advance and reduce the volume and frequency of watering.

But these rules do not apply to plants that are less than 3 years old: in winter they are in a warm and lit room with additional lighting.

Stem and crown formation

To make the shape of the myrtle beautiful, it is periodically cut off. The procedure and methods for forming a bole or crown depend on the variety, but this is always done in early spring or after flowering has ended.

In summer, it is permissible to remove a few extra branches. If you do not trim the crown of the myrtle, then it takes on a pyramidal shape.

Shoots can be bent and tied up, entangling with soft wire, but with care

Pinching is relevant in spring and in young plants during the period of activity. This will make the crown wider, so it is better to cut young branches short enough.

Video: tree formation

Bonsai at home

Many are addicted to this extraordinary activity, and myrtle is perfect for the formation of bonsai. It is advisable to choose slow growing and dwarf varieties(for example, Boethica or Microfill). To form a crown, pinching is carried out regularly. top leaves, cut off unnecessary branches, preventing flowering. It is then that the crown will be lush and dense, and its shape will be compact and correspond to the given one.

So, the Boethics barrel can be directed in different directions: it is malleable, but you should not pinch it, because there will be creases

A myrtle bonsai pot should be flat and wide, with low walls. To avoid drying out of the soil and add decorativeness, moss is placed on the top layer of soil or mulched.

A pot mismatch can create obstacles to the normal functioning of the root system, which will lead to the quick death of the tree.

Mistakes in care

When growing myrtle, there are different problems, often associated with improper maintenance of the plant. Below are the most common causes the "unhealthy look" of your plant.

Table: improper care: problems and their solutions

Often you have to resort to emergency resuscitation of a plant (in particular, a dried one):

1. Carefully remove the plant.
2. Immerse its roots in settled warm water for several hours.
3. Place the myrtle in the pot.
4. Cover with foil.
5. Ventilate at least 1 time per day, preventing the soil from sour.
6. Add complex fertilizers for ornamental plants.

When the myrtle recovers, the film must be removed. Next, you should review the terms of its content.

Diseases and pests, methods of treatment

Myrtle becomes vulnerable to pests if the conditions of detention are violated.

Table: list of main pests and diseases, measures to combat them

Photo gallery: signs of affected plants

If the choice is between vermiculite and perlite, give preference to the first: it is not dusty and has useful elements for plant nutrition

Cuttings are planted in a small pot (plastic cups are also suitable) with prepared soil.

Plant the cuttings to a depth of 2.5–3 cm, remembering to compact the soil at the base

Rooting cuttings are expected within 1-2 months.

As a rule, plants grown from cuttings bloom only in the second or third year.

Reproduction by seeds

A myrtle tree obtained from seeds will delight you with flowers no earlier than 4 years later.

In addition, it should be borne in mind that seeds have a tendency to reduce germination after one year of storage.

How to grow myrtle from seeds:

Myrtle grown from seeds grows slowly.

Seed stratification

Few people subject plant seeds to stratification, although this is often required. So what is this "beast"?

Stratification is the preparation of the plant embryo for future germination without loss: keeping the plant in humid environment at low temperatures and further planting in relatively warm soil. Without pre-cooling, the seed can simply rot in the ground.

Typically, such seed preparation is carried out as follows:

1. Soak the seeds in warm water for 24 hours.
2. Prepare a container with wet cotton or paper swabs, on which the seeds are laid out.
3. Seeds in this form are placed in the refrigerator; the temperature should be within 1-5 o C.
4. Withstand 1.5-2 months in this state.

To increase the effectiveness, Zircon is added to the water for primary soaking (1 drop per 300 ml of water). This solution must be infused for at least 16 hours. It is suitable for use only for 3 days at an air temperature of 18–25 ° C.

Before soaking the seeds, the container with the Zircon solution is shaken.

Possible problems during germination

Often, when growing plants from seeds, a number of “what if” questions arise:

• seeds do not germinate;
• abundant condensate caused the formation of mold;
• sprouts wither, etc.

For example, seeds may not germinate for several reasons: unviable old seed, excessively deep sowing, cold, oversaturated soil, etc. If in the first case you are absolutely helpless, then the second and third are the work of your hands: consider the specifics of planting myrtle seeds and do not forget about drainage and ventilation of the greenhouse.

If mold has formed under the glass, take immediate action:

1. Reduce watering by about 30%.
2. Mulch the soil with minerals.
3. Treat seedlings, soil and glass with fungicides.

Perhaps the situation is aggravated by acidic soil. Then chalk is added to the soil at the rate of about 50 g per 1 kg of land (it can also be replaced wood ash in the same proportions).

In any case, try to follow the recommendations for care in order to avoid problematic "what to do" in the future.

Exported several centuries ago to Europe, myrtle has taken root well in homes and feels great. Today there are about a hundred species myrtle tree, of which common myrtle and all its varieties are suitable for growing at home. To lovely plants with such amazing rich history pleasing to the eye, you should pay them a little attention: simple care with abundant watering.

Considered a symbol of peace, youth, love and marriage, it has long been revered and grown in various countries. And today flower growers are not averse to seeing myrtle in their collection, home care for which even a beginner can master.

In pot culture, two varieties of this evergreen can most often be found. Is it common myrtle, or Myrtus communis, and small-leaved myrtle, Myrtus microphylla. In nature, the diversity of species is much wider. Today, botanists number about a hundred varieties of this culture, found in subtropical and tropical regions on both sides of the equator.

Evergreen myrtle in pot culture

Since ancient times, myrtle has enjoyed special respect in the countries of the Mediterranean and the Middle East. The respectful attitude continues to this day. But if in regions with a warm climate, myrtle is one of the favorite garden and park plants, then in countries with temperate climate shrubs or small trees up to 2 meters high are planted in greenhouses or indoor pots.

Caring for a myrtle tree at home will not be difficult, and the plant gratefully responds to care with flowering and even fruiting. Myrtle flowers resemble Chinese camellia flowers. Thanks to large, protruding stamens, they seem fluffy and perfectly decorate the house in the first half of summer.

If artificial pollination is carried out in the process of caring for myrtle, by autumn the shrub will be covered blue-black berries. Seeds inside ripe fruits sprout and can be successfully used to propagate room culture.

The culture is valued as a source of essential oil, the aroma of which is easy to feel by kneading a couple of small leathery leaves densely covering the shoots in your fingers.

Growing evergreen myrtle will bring a lot of interesting observations and pleasant moments to the grower. But how to care for myrtle at home? What are the maintenance requirements for this Mediterranean species?

How to care for myrtle?

IN room conditions myrtle proved to be a rather non-capricious plant, gratefully responding to care. With proper care for the myrtle, regular crown formation and the right choice of place, the pot culture pleases with dense greenery, a compact shape and the absence of diseases.

The plant is photophilous, excellent for watering and spraying, but it is not advisable to place a pot of myrtle in hot, stuffy rooms. In the cold season, a green pet needs a cool wintering at all.

The best place for myrtle is where the plant will be under bright for a long time, but not scorching sun. If the pot is exposed to the south window, it is useful to shade the bush at noon. But on the north side, the plant feels uncomfortable, the foliage loses its brightness, growth slows down, and flowering in conditions of lack of light can hardly be expected.

How to care for myrtle at different times of the year? From spring to mid-autumn, while there are no frosts, the pot can be kept on the balcony, loggia or in the garden, only slightly sheltered from the wind and sun. Here the plant is watered and protected from pests, because the risk of their attack outdoors increases significantly. In winter, myrtle care at home changes, which is caused by the plant's natural development cycle and the change of season.

Seasonal changes in myrtle care

How to care for a myrtle flower with the onset of autumn and winter? At this time, the plants slow down growth, rest from active vegetation and lay the foundations for future flowering. Optimum temperature the content of myrtle in winter is 6–10 °C. The coolness does not contribute to the rapid evaporation of moisture and its consumption by the myrtle itself, so watering is reduced, making sure that the soil ball and roots do not dry out completely.

Soil flooding in winter is extremely dangerous because of the risk of losing the entire bush, whose roots will inevitably rot in the cold, wet ground.

If the plant remains to winter at normal room temperature, it needs regular watering and mandatory crown irrigation. Such a measure will help the myrtle cope with being in a dry room atmosphere. A sign of a lack of moisture and discomfort experienced in this case are withering and falling leaves. If urgent measures are not taken and care for the myrtle is not taken care of, the pet will remain without foliage until spring, and will refuse to bloom in summer.

Top dressing, pruning and transplanting indoor myrtle

Top dressing of indoor myrtle bush is carried out in two weeks and combined with regular watering. The plant should be supported with mineral supplements and organic matter in spring and summer. In winter, such a measure of care is no longer needed.

To get a compact, even crown, as in the photo, myrtle care at home includes pruning and pinching the shoots.

The evergreen plant has long earned the love of flower growers who are fond of growing bonsai. The small-leaved form of the plant is ideal for these purposes, allowing for several years of painstaking care to get the most bizarre outlines.

Myrtle easily tolerates pruning. But it is best to spend it in the spring, when it has not yet begun. active growth. In the summer, a cardinal change in the shape of the bush is not carried out, but during this period the pinching of young shoots is very effective, forcing the stems to bush.

Early spring is not only optimal time for pruning, but also for transplanting indoor myrtle tree.

The root system of this culture is no different rapid growth but once every 3-4 years mature plant nevertheless, they are transferred to a larger capacity pot, and it is useful to replant young seedlings annually. Myrtle feels good in light loose soil of moderate nutritional value. A universal mixture for ornamental crops, and a homemade substrate from sod land, peat, sand and humus. With proper care, myrtle at home grows and pleases the owner for many years, becoming a living symbol of prosperity, love and peace.

We have already told on the pages of our Encyclopedia. Here we will talk about how to grow myrtle from cuttings to an adult tree.

Myrtle tolerates pruning and pinching well at any time of the year, with the difference that in an adult wintering plant that is at rest, without signs of growth, you can painlessly cut one branch onto a stalk, well, if you really need it - two, no more. And in a vegetative myrtle that continues to grow, you can safely drastically cut off the crown. Best time for cutting sprigs of myrtle for rooting - spring, end of winter. If you cut branches from a "sleeping" myrtle, they must be immediately transferred to conditions suitable for vegetation: warm (20-25 ° C), air humidity not lower than 50% and light (if necessary, additional lighting) - several hours of direct sun in the morning or evening.

For rooting, you can use branches from 7 to 15 cm, optimal length measured not in centimeters, but in a piece of the stem - rooting occurs in the semi-lignified tip of the cutting. It is clear that a 5 cm twig still has a green stem, it will simply fade. At the cut cutting, you need to cut off the lower leaves and put on rooting in water or wet vermiculite.

As you can see, in the first variant, there is one handle in the cup, it is supported by a circle of a polyethylene foam cup cut to the diameter and cut to the center. It not only supports the cutting, but also prevents the water from evaporating too quickly. You can cut out such a circle from foam rubber.

In the second option, many cuttings are rooted in one jar. Not all of them will give roots.

What is the difference and how best to root? The fact is that if you got one single cutting, you must do as shown in the first photo. Moreover, the water must be very clean, boiled. Carefully observe the first two days - if the water remains clear, everything is fine, it just remains to wait until the roots appear. If the water turns cloudy, replace it with fresh water and add the secret ingredient to it. There is such a drug in the pharmacy Polyphepan (Polyphepan) - this is an adsorbent (black powder looks like dry earth), which will not allow water to deteriorate, prevent the development of bacteria, but does not interfere with the rooting of cuttings. It needs to be added half a teaspoon to half a glass of water.

His years of experience Yuri Alexandrovich Markin shares (): If everything is in order with the water and the viability of the cutting, the roots form quite quickly - in the first week a callus forms (white bumps at the tip of the stem), and good roots grow in 2-3 weeks. When they reach at least 5 cm, and more, it's time to transplant the cutting into the ground.

In the photo you see strong roots and the beginning of the growing season at the rooted cuttings of myrtle, but you need to plant it carefully in order to minimally injure the delicate root processes. Therefore, Yuri Alexandrovich ties the stalk to a peg. A peg stuck into the ground securely holds the cutting without deepening the root neck.

If the myrtle roots are strong, they immediately take root, and in conditions of high humidity they grow very quickly. Thickened plantings in a common container require good ventilation of the room and timely seating in separate pots. Perhaps it is more correct to immediately plant the myrtle cuttings in separate containers, depending on the desired shape of an adult plant. If you plan to grow thick bush, you can plant 2-4 cuttings together, if the myrtle is planned to be grown as a trunk or as a potensay, then each cutting has a separate pot. Another option is the fusion of trunks, it also involves planting several cuttings in one container, but it requires some skill and preparation.

Is it possible to prune myrtle roots when transplanting rooted cuttings?

Yes, you can, in the event that the root system is well developed, has many lateral roots of the upper part, then you can painlessly cut off the elongated roots. After cutting the roots, they should be sprinkled with a crushed tablet. activated carbon or ground cinnamon.

Pot dimensions for transplanting myrtle

How you choose the right pot for planting the cutting depends on its health, growth rate and appearance. Many tend to take pots with a large margin, but if the pot is large, after watering the earth will dry for a very long time, as a result, a salt effusion forms on the surface - a whitish or red coating of calcium and magnesium salts. The acidity of the soil in this case shifts to the alkaline side, in such an environment some nutrients are poorly absorbed and there is a high probability of root rotting. In a pot that is too small, especially when planting in pure peat, on the contrary, the root system of the plant can be very dry.

Here is an example, planting a rooted branch (stem thickness initially 2 mm), which has long grown, and the height has reached 75 cm from the ground.

Myrtle grew in a glass (200 g) for about two years. The thickness of the trunk at the root neck reached 6 mm. The earthen ball is almost completely mastered by the roots. If your cutting has only grown roots at the bottom, formed a "beard", or crawled out of the drainage hole, and top part pot roots have not been mastered, it makes sense when transplanting to cut off those roots that stick out of the holes of the pot, or those that have curled at the bottom in a spiral, displacing all the soil. After that, you need to transplant the young myrtle again into the old pot. It can be transplanted into a new one only when the roots fill the entire space of the pot.

Myrtle formation

The formation of a myrtle tree occurs constantly. Trimming the ends of the shoots can be carried out repeatedly during the spring-summer season. You can grow a myrtle tree in absolutely free style, shaggy bush. You can form a stem or another style. But first you need to imagine the image you want to strive for.

A myrtle tree blooming with pink buds (on the right in the photo, Pavel Karpenkov) is so beautiful not because of extreme unpretentiousness, but because it is grown in ideal conditions for it: it stands in an area where the illumination is close to sunny, the humidity is under 90% and the temperature is 24 °C It is watered every 2-3 days (does not dry out and is not flooded). Planted in soil with a mixture of akadama and sand and some soil for seedlings. Drainage is high - myrtles do not like waterlogged roots. Spray it every day.

Important: when wintering in cool and, especially cold conditions, spraying is not required, and watering is scarce.

With the help of a wire, you can pull the branches in the right direction, they are quite plastic even in adulthood. But old branches covered with brown bark can be bent gradually, smoothly, over several months.

Please note that while the myrtle tree is gaining thickness of the trunk, it does not need to be planted in a bonsai pot, the pot space is needed for the plant to disperse the trunk.

From personal experience, Borya: My myrtle grows on the northwestern window, but it will not be possible to form a spherical crown without additional lighting. I use this technique: as the branches lengthen, I tilt the largest of them to the sides almost to horizontal position, and fasten with wire. Then, along the entire length of the branch, new shoots begin to appear from sleeping buds (before that they were in the shade), and the entire branch turns out to be densely leafy.

The size of the pot should correspond to the size of the root system and increase as the earthen clod is braided. It all depends on how many roots the myrtle has. In my opinion, it is better to take a cramped dish than a spacious one, since in the second case, part of the earth may turn sour and become unusable even before the roots have time to penetrate into it.

I prefer to plant myrtles in a mixture of some peat soil with coarse sand, in a ratio of 1: 1. Of the purchased ones, in my opinion, you can use the Cactus mixture, as the most porous and suitable for most plants.

What needs to be done to give the myrtle the appearance of a tree from a cutting

From personal experience, Borya: You need to choose the largest, central, and, most importantly, the branch of the bush you like best and cut off all the rest. It is convenient to do this with small scissors for cutting nails. On it, you need to remove the leaves and side shoots from below to the height of the intended trunk. This will result in a smooth trunk, which will slowly thicken.

Since, when growing in a "bush", the branches touch and, as it were, "support" each other a little, then, "left alone", this branch may for some reason be bent (from accidental grazing, or as a result of tilting towards the light, for example ). Therefore, a support in the form of a peg stuck nearby is desirable for her.

As a result, the growth of shoots on the upper leafy part begins. Those shoots that do not appear on the "crown", but on the stem, must be removed (otherwise a bush will turn out again). When the stem reaches a thickness of about 0.5 cm, the support can be removed.

Bamboo skewers (3-4 mm thick and about 30 cm long) are very suitable for the role of sticks for props. The peg should be located, in relation to the plant, from the side of the room or on the side, so as not to obscure.

Myrtle - bonsai

Many people want to have a miniature myrtle tree in a bowl, but before the myrtle trunk gains thickness (from 1.5 cm or more), there is even no question of transplanting into bonsai trees. And all plant material with which work is being done on the formation is called potensay.

An example of such work from Yuri Alexandrovich Markin:

Bonsai style Sokan

And this is Potensai - the style of Sokan "Twin Trunks". 2-3-year-old plants grown from rooted cuttings are used. Rearranged from wintering to prepare for the spring growing season - pruning and shaping to suit bonsai styles. The skeleton and stems of the first potensai are shaped in the Sokan style with ligatures and stretch marks. The height of the workpiece in the final form - 28 cm:

Formation work continues. Myrtle has its own subtleties, says Yuri Alexandrovich - fragile wood and loose bark, although, when broken, it grows together remarkably.

Before all the manipulations, I take a long shower, so that soak fabrics. When bending vertical and rather plump branches at an angle of 90 °, I sort of knead the near-stem area between my fingers - I crush it like a joint on a finger.

Next, I begin to apply a ligature to the trunk and wind up the wire on the branch to be bent. Then, the branch, together with the wire wrapped in two turns, I begin to slowly bend. Under the branch, you can substitute a screwdriver and create an emphasis at the bend. After bending the branch by more than 90 °, I rewind the ligature with the branch fixed in the desired position.

Also, it is possible to perform a directed fracture, i.e. break a branch and wrap it around with raffia, and then apply a ligature (the main subtlety is not to break it completely when applying raffia and ligature, skill and a sensitive tactile sensation of the material are required).

You can apply another way to thick branches. Make a crescent cut under the branch, in the place of the intended bend, to the middle or 2/3 of the thickness of the branch. The cut is made in thin sections with adjustment (bending and refining the position of the branch in the final form), if not enough, then another thin fragment is removed from both sides (such as slices).

Further according to the scheme - winding with raffia and applying a ligature. If it's hard to bend copper wire in insulation with a cross section of 2.5 mm, then you can put two wires of 1.5 mm each or several wires of an even smaller cross section folded together - an example is the photo above (lower left corner), the coil of wire in the photo with myrtle. This wire can be used for both ligatures and stretch marks.

Bonsai Ikadabuki style

Another example of work on the formation of myrtle bonsai in the Ikadabuki style from Gennady Boronin (). The author also modestly calls it only an attempt at formation: "2 years trying to become a bonsai." The height of the myrtle tree is 27-30 cm.

Photographs and materials used: Yu. A. Markin (YUM), Borya, Natali, barsuchok, Alexander, P. Karpenkov (beomaster), G. Boronin (Genn).