Tomato seedlings turn yellow and dry: why is this happening and what to do? Why tomato seedlings turn yellow and dry and what to do with bushes Tomato seedlings upper leaves turn yellow what to do.

Tomatoes are an unpretentious crop, seedlings of which are usually grown without much difficulty. But in the process of forcing seedlings from seeds, problems sometimes arise, one of which is wilting of the leaves. Why the leaves of tomato seedlings turn yellow and fall off and how to deal with this phenomenon, let's try to figure it out in this article.

Nutrient deficiency

One of the common causes of yellowing of the leaves of tomato seedlings is the lack of any trace elements with insufficient soil fertilization. Most often, chlorosis develops due to a lack of nitrogen.

The deficiency of this substance can be unmistakably determined by the red veins with a bluish tint on the leaves, plus, the leaves are abnormally small throughout the plant. The lower leaves turn yellow and fall off.

Top dressing with ammonium nitrate will help. The fertilizer should be dissolved in water in a ratio of 40 g per 10 liters of water and pour 1 liter of solution under each bush. Care must be taken not to get liquid on the leaves to avoid burns.

Yellowing of leaf plates is also associated with potassium deficiency. Its lack poses a serious danger to seedlings than nitrogen starvation. In this case, ammonia nitrogen accumulates in plants, and if measures are not taken in time, the leaves lose moisture, curl and die.

Should be applied under each bush wood ash. To do this, take 5 liters of settled water, add 2 - 3 tbsp. tablespoons of ash, stir well and pour this suspension over the plants.

Yellowing of the upper surface of the leaves means that phosphorus is needed. In this case, superphosphate must be included in top dressing (for 1 bucket of water - 3 tablespoons of fertilizer).

Another phenomenon that has a detrimental effect on seedlings is a lack of zinc. It is expressed in the yellowing of the leaves near the petiole, spreading further and further along the leaf plate. At the same time, small yellow specks appear on young leaves. Tissue necrosis immediately affects the entire surface of the leaves.

Deficiency of other elements is less common.

To understand what exactly to feed the plants, take a closer look at which parts of the seedlings have changed color:

1. The top of the plant turned yellow- lack of calcium.
2. Edges of sheet plates- requires magnesium.
3. All leaves turn yellow, curl and dry - iron and manganese are needed.

To eliminate the deficiency of minerals, it is necessary to carry out foliar feeding of seedlings with ready-made complex fertilizers by choosing the most suitable composition and reading the instructions.

Underwatering or overwatering

Sometimes the reason for the yellowing of the leaves is commonplace - lack of moisture. Tomatoes are quite unpretentious to soil moisture, but if the earth is very dry, the leaves dry out and the sprouts may die.

But one should not be too zealous with watering: a constant overabundance of moisture leads to “root suffocation” and even damping of plants. First, the cotyledon leaves turn yellow and fall, and then all the rest. If the soil is waterlogged, stop watering until the soil on top dries out ¾ of the depth of the pot.

The ideal scheme is infrequent abundant hydration. Watering should be done when the soil is completely dry.

dry air

Excessively dry air in the apartment can also cause yellowing and wilting of seedlings. If possible, the pots should be moved away from the batteries, another way is to purchase a humidifier. Plants should be sprayed regularly with a spray bottle.

lack of light

One of the main conditions for growing healthy and strong seedlings- a sufficient amount of light. The following factors are important:

• duration of daily illumination;
• number and power of lamps used.

It is believed that tomato seedlings need to be illuminated daily for 8 to 12 hours.

To determine how many lamps you need for this, you should know that 200 watts are required per 1 m2 of seedlings. That is, if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe window sill is 1 m2 and it is all occupied by seedlings, and the power of the lamps you have is 100 W, then 2 lamps will be needed for illumination.

Important! Lamps should be placed above seedlings, the distance to the upper leaves should be at least 20 cm.

Too small pots

Tomato roots need enough space for normal development. If the pots where the tomatoes grow are too small, the lower leaves of the seedlings begin to turn yellow. At the first pick, it is recommended to use containers with a volume of at least 200 ml, and for the second time, the plants are transplanted into pots of 0.5–1 l.

High or low temperature

If the temperature in the greenhouse rises above 30 ° C, the leaves of the seedlings begin to fall off. An anti-stress measure consists in spraying plants with a solution of urea (0.5 tsp per 5 liters of water).

It does not work better on seedlings and hypothermia. Leaf plates acquire a bluish tint and fall off.

Ideal temperature regime for seedlings - 12 ° C at night, 22 - 25 ° C - during the day.

Unsuitable soil

Heavy soil that does not allow air to reach the roots is not suitable for growing seedlings. Cannot be used untreated garden soil in which pests and pathogenic bacteria may be present.

Before use, the soil should be decontaminated in one of the following ways:

1. Ignite in the oven. To do this, pour wet soil on a baking sheet with a layer 5 cm thick and hold for 30 minutes in a preheated to 70 - 90 ° C. Do not overheat the oven, as this leads to the death of beneficial bacteria.
2. Steam. Cover the colander with a cloth and pour soil into it. Then place a colander over a pot of boiling water, cover and leave for 20 to 30 minutes.
3. Pour with a solution of potassium permanganate. Dilute 6 - 10 g of the substance in 20 liters of water and water the soil. This is done 14 days before planting seedlings. For acidic soils, this treatment is not suitable, because manganese is an oxidizing agent.

If old containers are used, they should be washed with bleach diluted 1:10 in water.

Difficulties of adaptation

It happens that the seedlings feel great, and after transplanting into the greenhouse, its lower leaves turn yellow. This is usually due to one of three reasons:

1. The previous capacity was too small. In a new place, the root system intensively began to grow, taking away nutrients from the leaves.
2. The roots are damaged. This happens when tomatoes grow in one box close to each other, their root systems are intertwined, and when transplanted, parts of the roots come off.
3. If the stem is too deeply buried in the ground, additional roots form on it, as a result above-ground part is not getting food.

In order for the seedlings to adapt more easily, after transplanting it must be mulched and not watered for a week. If the greenhouse is very hot and the seedlings have begun to wither, they should be sprayed with water.

Fusarium defeat

Fusarium is fungal disease, which often affects tomatoes if preventive measures are not taken. It manifests itself in the following:

1. The lower leaves turn yellow and wither.
2. Then the leaves at the top wither and deform.
3. On the section of the stem, it can be seen that the vessels have become brown in color.

Prevention consists in selecting varieties that are resistant to the disease, dressing seeds and soil. Excessive soil and air humidity can contribute to the development of Fusarium, so the greenhouse should be regularly ventilated.

For tomatoes to grow healthy and please bountiful harvest, you should not only take into account these recommendations, but also study the rules for growing the varieties you have chosen. Compliance with the temperature regime and proper care of the seedlings will help to avoid yellowing and wilting of the leaves.

How to fertilize seedlings?

The general scheme for feeding tomato seedlings looks like this:

1. The soil in which the seedlings will grow must be enriched with minerals. To do this, add 10 g of carbamide, 25 g of potassium sulfate and 30 g of superphosphate to a bucket of water and water the soil.
2. The first dressing is optional, but is practiced by many vegetable growers. It is carried out when the very first leaf appears above the ground. The earth should be generously watered with a solution of copper, for which 1 tsp. fertilizer is diluted in 10 liters of water (copper is sold in specialized stores).
3. For the second top dressing, which is carried out 10 - 12 days after picking, urea is suitable (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).
4. For the third time, tomatoes are fed 10 days after the 2nd, using nitrophoska (1 tablespoon per 1 liter of water).
5. For further top dressing, carried out as needed, compost and other organic matter is suitable, which is brought into boxes with plants. You can use foliar top dressing by spraying the leaves with a nutrient solution from a spray bottle.

If the rules for fertilizing are followed, seedlings grow healthy and hardy.

by the most common causes drying of the lower leaves of tomato seedlings are: soil, watering, lighting, nutrition, diseases and pests.

First reason: sucking pests. You can determine their presence by small dots on the yellowing leaves, if you take a magnifying glass. Gardeners do not always pay attention to the cleanliness of window sills, where many different seedlings are grown in the spring season. To this is added nearby domestic flowers, where various mites, thrips, etc. often live. In this case, treatment with biopreparations with phytoverm, bitoxibacillin will help not only seedlings, but also indoor flowers.

The second reason: excess fertilizer in early age and little soil. The so-called "salinity" soil mixture, when undeveloped roots suffer from a high concentration of salts, causes drooping and yellowing of the leaves. And, conversely, with a lack of nutrition and an insufficient size of the container, starvation of the seedlings occurs. Here it is necessary to look for the golden mean. Feed the seedlings with small doses of water-soluble fertilizer as the seedlings grow.

Third reason: soil and watering. Even if it is purchased from a reliable manufacturer, it is not yet a fact that the components included in its composition are ideally mixed and the soil is suitable for acidity. All manufacturers use peat, which is mixed with lime materials. And, if it has an increased acidity, then the seedlings can not fully use the nutrients. Tomatoes need slightly acidic soil.

With excessive overflow of seedlings, the root system suffocates from lack of air. And the lower leaves begin to turn yellow. Diseases (black leg, fusarium wilt, etc.) are also connected to such troubles. You can correct the situation by adding ash to the soil, reducing watering, treating the soil before sowing seeds with bio-preparations for diseases (, hamair, etc.).

Fourth reason: lighting. Without proper lighting, photosynthesis in seedlings does not work well. Seedlings are very stretched and the lower leaves turn yellow. Top dressing with a lack of light by plants is poorly absorbed. It is impractical to grow seedlings in February without additional lighting. Better to postpone until March when it gets bigger sunny days and daylight hours are increasing.

Also important will be the presence of dry air from the radiators during the cultivation of seedlings. Streams of dry air dry up the tender leaves of tomato seedlings. If possible, insulate the batteries by covering them with a sheet of plywood or placing jars of water between pots of seedlings.

Advice 2: Why do the leaves of tomato seedlings turn yellow on the windowsill

The leaves of tomato seedlings can turn yellow for many reasons, therefore, in order to cope with this ailment, it is necessary to analyze your plant care and correct some of its aspects.

You will need

• - fresh soil;
• - fertilizers;
• - antifungal drugs.

Instruction

Tomatoes - plants are not particularly picky, grow quite strong seedlings under the power of everyone. All that is required is to use high-quality soil for planting, water and feed the seedlings in a timely manner, and provide them with proper lighting. If these conditions are not met, then the seedlings may stop growing, begin to wither or turn yellow. Foliage yellowing is one of the most common misfortunes of tomatoes, and in order to be effective with, you need to know what influenced the change in foliage color.
The very first thing you need to pay attention to is watering. Excessive waterlogging of the soil very often leads to yellowing of the foliage. There is only one way out - to reduce watering.

If you notice that the leaves of tomatoes are gradually turning yellow, while the veins of the leaves remain green, then in this case the reason is a lack of nutrients, namely nitrogen. You can only help plants complex top dressing. Now there are many different drugs on sale in stores, choose the right one and use it for its intended purpose. Lost in choice? Pay attention to ammonium sulphate, ammonium nitrate, urea and ammonium sulfate.
If you do not trust industrial preparations, use organic ones: mullein, bird droppings And so on.

Often due to the defeat of fungal diseases. The fungus affects both the root system and the aerial parts of tomatoes, and if no action is taken in time, the plants may die. To avoid fungal infections of seedlings, it is necessary to treat the soil and seeds with special preparations before planting, do not flood the plants, but if the plants are already sick, then they need to be transplanted into another soil and treated, for example, with Ridomil Gold at 25% concentration. Most of the time, this is enough to keep most seedlings.

Tomatoes are a vegetable that summer residents and gardeners love and plant in large quantities. Tomatoes are used for cooking fresh salads, canned, squeezed juice or boiled ketchups. But what if the leaves of tomatoes turn yellow and begin to dry?

There are quite a few reasons.

damaged roots

This occurs when, when weeding with a chopper, part of the roots is cut off. In such cases, the lower leaves of the plant begin to turn yellow and fall off, and the stem itself looks sick and often bends to the ground.

Insufficient watering

The leaves on the tomato become sluggish, then begin to curl, turn yellow and fall off. This is because, when planting, the main root was incorrectly pinched, poor watering of the seedlings or its absence at all. To save the plants, you need to cast it large quantity water daily until the end of flowering, or even until fruiting.

unfertilized soil

When the soil lacks nutrients, the very tips of the tomato leaves begin to turn yellow, then they turn red, curl and dry. In this case, it would be appropriate to feed with manure, humus or synthetic fertilizers, which can be purchased at specialized stores.

plant disease

Fusarium is a fungal disease that causes yellowing and drying of the leaves on tomatoes. In this case, the leaves begin to lighten from the center, and then turn completely yellow, dry out and fall off. the plant can only be saved by treating fungicides, but it must be borne in mind that the chemical is not, it only prevents the growth of pathogenic microflora and allows the plant to recover.

To avoid the appearance of fusarium, it is necessary to disinfect the seeds, containers for planting seedlings and the soil itself. Perfect fit strong solution potassium permanganate. The soil is treated a month before planting seedlings, and then a couple of weeks later with a solution of phytosporin. With such preparation, the chances of mushrooms to survive are reduced to almost zero.

Lack of heat

If the plant does not have enough heat, it slows down in growth, and the leaves turn yellow entirely and at once. When planting tomatoes in open ground, it is necessary to take into account weather, and not only at the time of landing, but also in the near future. If the seedlings are planted a little, then you can cover it with a film (make a greenhouse) or with a special material - acrylic.

The yellowing of the foliage of tomatoes indicates that the conditions for maintaining the culture are not met. In some cases, the cause of what is happening is the diseases of the seedlings, which, in turn, also appear due to a violation of the rules of care.

Growing tomato seedlings is not such an easy task. Only knowing the special subtleties of crop care, you can grow strong seedlings, which in the future will give excellent harvest. Very important for tomatoes comfortable conditions, therefore, it is necessary to keep the seedlings in accordance with all the rules, providing it with a certain temperature regime and lighting, watering and feeding. Neglect of these rules negatively affects young plants, the first "bells" of improper care are yellowing of foliage. So, a change in the color of the leaves of seedlings from green to yellow always indicates that the nutrition processes of the foliage are disturbed in the plant. Such violations can occur for many reasons:

• due to lack of light;
• due to lack of moisture;
• due to lack of oxygen to horses;
• due to nutritional deficiencies;
• due to illness.

With a lack of light, they are violated natural processes photosynthesis, the foliage of the seedlings begins to brighten, and if no action is taken, the plants become pale green or yellow, while the stalks of the seedlings stretch out and weaken. From such plants it is impossible to obtain good harvest, therefore, at the slightest suspicion of a lack of light, seedlings must be provided additional lighting.

Lack of moisture also leads to yellowing of the foliage. It is known that plants absorb any nutrients from the soil exclusively with water, and if the soil is dry, then the seedlings do not receive nutrition. Naturally, this leads to starvation of plants. It is immediately worth noting that even if the seedlings are watered on time, but at the same time neglected top dressing, their foliage may also turn yellow. The reason is the same - the seedlings are starving.

The roots receive a lack of oxygen in two cases - the soil is not loosened and the soil is systematically waterlogged. Only by adjusting these components can the problem of the lack of this element be solved.

And finally, sickness. In most cases, if tomato seedlings get sick, then the reason for this is fungal diseases. Illiterate care contributes to the development of the disease - poor ventilation of seedlings (for example, plants on the windowsill are too close to each other), excessive waterlogging of the soil, lack of light. The only way to deal with the problem is integrated approach, namely, the establishment of care and treatment of the culture with antifungal drugs.

With the onset of spring, it is time to plant tomato seeds for seedlings. Watering, fertilizing, fertilizing ... Enough worries. But sometimes all the work goes down the drain due to problems encountered when growing seedlings. The most common diseases and causes of death of tomatoes will be considered in this article.

Conditions for growing tomato seedlings

Tomatoes are very sun-loving plants, so choose places to grow seedlings that will be well lit by the sun. If you are growing on a windowsill, then south-facing windows will become the best option. If necessary, use additional lighting in the form of fluorescent lights and protective foil screens. Avoid sudden changes in temperature. Maintain night temperature within 10-15 ° C, daytime at 17-22 ° C. Watering should be regular, every 5-6 days, not allowing excessive drying of the soil. When watering emerging plants, use root watering to prevent fungal diseases. When growing seedlings on a windowsill, it is advisable to make stands under the boxes to avoid a sharp temperature drop between the root area (from working batteries) and top plants.

The main diseases and pests of tomato seedlings

Young seedlings have their own diseases and pests that are not averse to eating small sprouts.

The most common diseases and pests. Table

Growing tomato seedlings is a very painstaking work. The smallest mistake of creation necessary conditions care and prevention measures can cost a whole crop. Therefore, one should take a responsible approach to diagnosing the condition of seedlings, and, if necessary, take all the recommended measures for optimal plant growth.

Consolidated signs of diseases, pest damage or errors in the care of seedlings. Table

Diseases

All tomato diseases can be classified into four groups. These are fungal, infectious, bacterial and “non-infectious” diseases. Let's start with perhaps the most common fungal diseases.

late blight

A fungal disease with a strong viability. It is transmitted both through air, soil, water, and through seed materials, gardening Tools, plant remains. The first symptoms are dark brown spots on the leaves, which eventually move to both the stems and the fruits. The affected areas on the reverse side are covered with a grayish coating. The disease quickly spreads to other plants. With early infection, partial or complete loss of the crop is not uncommon.

The main method of combating late blight is prevention. For preventive measures you can use a pink solution of potassium permanganate, in which you need to soak the seeds for half an hour. Hydrogen peroxide is also a good disinfectant. Seeds, as in the case of potassium permanganate, are soaked for half an hour. It should be ensured that the humidity where the seedlings grow does not exceed 75%, carry out ventilation, avoiding drafts. Even for preventive purposes, plants are treated with Bordeaux mixture (0.7%), copper sulfate (0.1%), a solution of garlic with potassium permanganate (200 grams of chopped garlic, 1 gram of potassium permanganate, insist for two days in 1 liter of water, then filtered dilute the mixture with 9 liters of water and process the seedlings), a solution of kefir (1: 2 in proportion to water). For the prevention and treatment of phytophthora, fungicides are also used, for example, Oksihom, Metronidazole, Fitosporin, Trichopolum, Barrier.

Blackleg

This disease is also fungal. It occurs, as a rule, when the seedlings are too densely placed and then the seedlings receive little light. A sign of a black leg is dried and darkened stem bases. Plants roll and fall.

For the preventive purposes of the occurrence of this disease, soil fertilizer with ash and sand is used. As in the case of phytophthora, soaking seeds in a solution of potassium permanganate is effective. If the disease still occurs, the treatment is carried out with fungicides: Fitosporin-M, Baktofit, Fitolavin. The soil is disinfected by abundant irrigation with a solution of potassium permanganate or blue vitriol. Sick plants are removed and destroyed.

Septoria

Infection with this fungus occurs mainly through the soil. The lower leaves of the seedlings are covered with grayish spots with black dots. Over time, the leaves turn brown and dry.

Prevention of this disease is soil disinfection with solutions of potassium permanganate, fertilizer with ash and sand. Pre-freezing the soil before planting seeds or seedlings will help well. Diseased sprouts must be destroyed. For the treatment of the rest of the seedlings, treatment with Bordeaux liquid is used.

brown spot

The main symptom of the disease is the appearance of light brown spots on the leaves, which eventually merge and darken. The provocateur of brown spotting can be increased humidity of air and soil.

Prevention and treatment of brown spot is the same as in the case of septoria.

Bacterial diseases of tomatoes are manifested by rot, oily spots on the leaves. They are very harmful to tomatoes and threaten to significantly damage the future crop.

Black bacterial spot

Symptoms of the disease are small oblong black spots on the leaves, stems, which spread throughout the plant for a short time, resembling a black rash. Infection passes through poor-quality seed material, poorly cultivated soil, with damage and cracks in plants. high humidity one of the provocateurs of the disease.

Disease prevention is the selection of quality seed material, soil disinfection, disinfection of garden tools, destruction of diseased plants. The treatment is carried out by treatment with 1% Bordeaux liquid, such chemicals as Fitolavin, Fitosporin M, Oksihom are used.

Mosaic

Mosaic is viral disease threatening to completely destroy the future crop. The danger of infection is very high, since there are a lot of “owners” of the disease. Mosaic is quite common in other cultures. The virus is resistant to frost and drought. The source of infection can be garden tools, and soil, and weeds. The aphid is an excellent carrier of the virus. The first symptoms of the disease manifest themselves on the leaves in the form of a mosaic mottle of green, dark and light shades, which subsequently deform the sheet both by the appearance of specific growths and by complete twisting.

Preventive measures are carried out in the form of seed disinfection. For this, treatment with trisodium phosphate or a 20% hydrochloric acid solution is used. It is also recommended to sterilize the soil. Sprouted tomatoes are processed boric acid 0.1% or whey 10%. Of the chemicals, Farmiod-3 can be used. It is necessary to carefully follow the rules of crop rotation, remove all weeds, and avoid low lighting. Seed material is selected only of a quality and disease-resistant nature. Diseased plants are removed and destroyed. Treatment is carried out against aphids with insecticides.

Aspermia

A viral disease transmitted by insects or reserve plants, such as chrysanthemums. A sign of the disease is the lightening of the color of tomatoes, increased curling of the tops, an underdeveloped main stem, the leaves are twisted, smaller, unevenly deformed.

To prevent the disease, insecticidal treatment is carried out against aphids and other vector pests. Observed right neighborhood with other cultures.

streak

A viral disease that enters the cells of a plant. It affects the entire ground part of tomatoes. External symptoms are similar to late blight, but there is dryness of the leaves and the absence of a specific plaque.

The treatment of streaking is not yet known to science; for prevention, only proper growing conditions and the destruction of diseased plants are used.

Plant diseases are also non-infectious. This happens with improper care, lack of vitamins and minerals, physical effects.

Seedling leaves turning yellow

If the yellowing of the leaf starts from the top of the seedling, then most likely the plant lacks calcium. Proper feeding will solve this problem.

Yellowing and drying of the leaves from below can have several options. This is too close proximity, coupled with poor lighting, and both too plentiful and insufficient watering. Deficiency of potassium, copper can also be one of the yellowing factors. The light yellow color of the entire bush signals a deficiency of manganese. Mechanical damage to the roots during picking is one of the many factors that cause yellowing of the leaves.

Leaves dry

Yellow drying leaves indicate a lack of moisture, if at the same time they curl, this may be a sign of iron deficiency. But it can also be a natural sign of "growing up" seedlings, when the lower sheets, having fulfilled their function, become only a hindrance, since the main nutrition goes to the development of the root and upper aerial parts.

White spots and drying leaves indicate sunburn.

Seedlings are not growing well

There are many reasons for slow seedling growth. This is a lack of nutrients, disturbed temperature conditions, poor lighting, close proximity of seedlings.

Weak stems, plants fall

Violated growing conditions can cause seedlings to stretch and fall.

Seedlings turn blue

Seedlings acquire blue or purple, mainly during a sharp cold snap, if the temperature regime was not disturbed, then a phosphorus deficiency is likely. Even the leaves of the seedlings can become purple in a natural way. Glass does not transmit ultraviolet, and when seedlings are taken out into the sun, the latter actively begins to be absorbed by plants, causing color changes. Over time, the color will return to normal.

The young wither, frail

If the seedlings began to wither, then, as in all of the above cases, it is necessary to carefully check the growing conditions. Withering of seedlings occurs when picking. The root system is disturbed and the plant simply “gets sick”. After a few days, the tomatoes begin to grow actively.

Leaves are curling

If this is not a varietal feature, then it indicates violations of growing conditions or a lack of nutrients. Balanced feeding, bringing the conditions back to normal will contribute to the healthy growth of seedlings.

Pests + photo

whitefly

A small whitish flying sucking insect. On the leaf, on the reverse side, it lays laying eggs of a grayish color. The hatched larvae stick to the leaf and resemble scales.

The whitefly is a threat, mainly as a carrier of many diseases. Therefore, the creation of appropriate conditions for growing plants, timely and sufficient feeding of seedlings will contribute to the resistance of both the impact of the insect and the diseases brought by the whitefly. Tomato leaves affected by larvae can be washed with soapy water or dandelion infusion.

thrips

Small flying insects. Difficult to detect, due to the ability to hide under the leaves, inside the buds. Diagnosed with dry, falling leaves, dried buds, visual inspection the reverse side of the leaf, on which black traces of the activity of thrips remain.

The fight against this pest is sufficient watering plants, treatment with Fitoverm or suitable insecticides, such as Aktara.

garden scoop

A very common pest. Effective on all vegetable crops without exception. Scoop caterpillars literally mow down entire rows of plants, preferring young shoots. The color of the caterpillars ranges from off-white to green.

Scoop butterflies do not cause damage to plants, as they feed on nectar, the danger of butterflies is precisely in the hatching of caterpillars.

There are many ways to control and prevent this pest. First of all, it is necessary to carefully dig the soil in the fall and at the beginning of the sowing season, removing all plant residues and weeds. Destruction of weeds during the growth of seedlings, catching caterpillars by hand, sweet traps for butterflies, for example, molasses diluted with water with the addition of a small amount yeast. It is recommended to use biological preparations to control caterpillars, as they are harmless to plants at any time of the growing season. Suitable for processing Actofit, Agrovertin. Insecticides such as Decis, Zolon, Karate are used in the spring.

The small flying pest has five species. Melon, peach, green, white, black. Small bugs with colors of green, black, white, yellow flowers depending on the type.

Aphid species:

peach aphid
green aphid
black aphid
yellow aphid

The methods of dealing with this pest are the same in all cases of lesions. different types aphids. Here, both folk and chemicals. At folk methods are mainly used herbal decoctions. Valid and proven experienced gardeners are decoctions of wormwood, tobacco, garlic. The recipe for such a decoction is quite simple: one part of the herb to one part of water, boiled for three hours, then diluted with a bucket of water. For stability of processing, a tenth of a bar of laundry soap can be added to the finished broth.
In case of severe damage, insecticide treatment is applied. Aktara, Proteus, Fitoverm are guaranteed to save your plants.

wireworm

This small, up to 20 mm hard worm is actually the larva of the click beetle. Has a yellow color. Damages tomatoes directly to the root system, often gets into the stem.

The prevention of the appearance of a wireworm is, as in the case of a scoop, digging the soil, removing weeds, and manually catching larvae. To scare away the pest, you can also use bait traps consisting of leaves and pieces of potatoes, carrots, and beets. Place the bait in small jars, tin or glass, and, tying it, lower it to the fishing line into the holes at a depth of 10-15 cm. Changing the bait regularly, the caught larvae should be destroyed. Chemical preparations in the fight against wireworm are used by furrow irrigation. For these purposes, Aktara, Provotoks, Bazudin are suitable.

Medvedka

Medvedka, in the common people a top or earthen crayfish, a rather large earthen beetle. Juveniles are grey, turning dark brown as they mature. It harms tomatoes by gnawing, full or partial, the base of the stem or damage to the root system.

Lives underground, digging deep passages with its "mole" claws. As for the scoop and wireworm, preventive measures include digging up the soil, destroying the larvae. The fight against the bear is carried out with such drugs as Rembek, Thunder 30. From folk remedies bait traps made using the example of a wireworm are also suitable. Even in the course, you can pour kerosene diluted in water (1 tablespoon per 1 liter of water) or washing powder diluted in the same proportions.

Colorado beetle

There is no beetle more famous for gardeners than the Colorado. These striped flying insects and their larvae are capable of destroying an entire area in a few days.

The female lays bright orange eggs on the underside of the leaf. The hatched larvae eat the leaf part, with a large lesion, the stem and fruits. Pest control is carried out mainly with insecticides. If the area is small, then you can carry out manual collection of beetles and larvae, the destruction of oviposition. When planting seeds or seedlings, you can treat with Prestige, Bankol, Akarin.

Picking without problems

Picking is necessary for durability and good growth young seedlings. Picking is carried out in prepared, fertilized soil, at the age of two weeks of sprouts. To avoid damage to the root system, the soil must be watered abundantly, and only then gently digging with a spatula to remove the plant.

The seedling is buried in small, watered warm water, holes, on the lower cotyledon leaves. From above, the soil is lightly tamped with fingers.

Important! For better adaptation of plants after picking, hold the seedlings in the shade for at least a day.

The first top dressing of the soil after picking is carried out after 10 days.

Video: diving tomato seedlings

Timely measures for the prevention of diseases, pest infestations and compliance with the conditions of detention will increase several times the receipt of high-quality seedlings, and, subsequently, a good harvest. Therefore, do not be afraid of difficulties and problems, and ripe, juicy tomatoes grown with your own hands will be your worthy reward.

Tomatoes are one of the most popular vegetable crops grown in household plots. However, gardeners are often interested in why tomato seedlings turn yellow, and how to fix this problem. First of all, it is recommended to pay attention to the conditions of maintenance of seedlings and the correct care. As practice shows, it is non-compliance with elementary rules that leads to diseases. vegetable crop, and spots appear on the leaves.

Usually the problem is caused by improper agricultural practices. Most often, gardeners choose too tight containers for growing seedlings. Many gardeners are interested in why the cotyledon leaves of tomato seedlings turn yellow and wither. Also, excessive watering, nitrogen deficiency, elevated level soil acidity. Other risk factors include nutritional deficiencies and poor lighting.

Light level and watering

If the tomato seedlings have turned yellow, then first of all you should pay attention to the degree of illumination of the room where the seedlings are grown. If there is little sunlight, then the plant does not just begin to turn yellow. Its leaves are covered with brown or light spots, the seedlings themselves begin to wither. To prevent a problem for this reason, it is worth installing containers with seedlings on the windowsill or on the balcony.

If the light level is normal, then why does it turn yellow on the windowsill with proper care? Very often the problem lies in incorrect watering. Excess moisture can cause plants to turn yellow. The same factor creates a favorable environment for the emergence and reproduction of fungi and all kinds of bacteria. Seedlings may be infected various diseases. It is not always possible to save her.

Severe stress and outgrowth

Often the leaves of tomato seedlings turn yellow in just a day. What can cause the sudden onset of the problem? Usually the provocateur is a strong stress.

It is called:

When gardeners are wondering why tomato seedlings turn yellow after picking, the answer is stress. It leads to the death of the root system. If tomato seedlings turn yellow for this reason, then it is almost impossible to save them. But really prevent stressful situation and minimize its consequences. For this, it is recommended to feed the seedlings in a timely manner with mineral complex additives or Epin's solution. In order not to provoke a backlash, it is worth doing a very weak remedy.

When yellow leaves in tomato seedlings - the reasons can be very different. Often the problem is accompanied by falling leaves. According to the reviews of experienced gardeners, overgrown seedlings most often turn yellow. Usually they just do not have enough soil. A too dense lump is formed from the root system, and as a result:

1. roots die off
2. seedlings are attacked by various diseases;
3. there is a lack of nutrition of the plant.

At the same time, such seedlings then take root very badly and for a long time in a permanent place.

Nutrient deficiency

Often tomato seedlings turn yellow and do not grow when they lack optimal amount some nutrients, especially the vegetable crop reacts sharply to a lack of zinc, nitrogen or potassium.

In this situation, the leaf plate turns yellow, and its veins still remain green. In order to prevent the occurrence of a problem for this reason, it is recommended to feed the tomatoes in a timely manner with special nutritious "cocktails".

If the lower leaves of tomato seedlings turn yellow, this indicates a nitrogen deficiency. The veins on the plates acquire a reddish or blue color. It is possible to save seedlings in this situation. To do this, it is recommended to use nitrogen in liquid form. Such fertilizers quickly restore seedlings.

Often the cause of the problem is a lack of potassium. In this case, the leaves of the tomato seedlings turn yellow and dry, the plates are twisted not only at the edges, but almost completely. The fact is that the deficiency of this element causes dehydration of plants, but the problem is solvable. It can be eliminated with a simple potassium salt.

Zinc deficiency manifests itself somewhat differently. In this situation, there yellow spots on tomato seedlings, which confuses many gardeners. Iron deficiency manifests itself differently. In this situation, the seedlings change their shade gradually. They first appear greenish-yellow, after which their color becomes almost white. To bring the seedlings back to life, you will need to use special top dressing.

When the question arises why the lower leaves of tomato seedlings turn yellow, it is likely that the plant is low on copper. The leaves of seedlings in this area may become very pale. If the apex turns yellow first, this often indicates a phosphorus deficiency. When sheet plates completely acquire a sunny hue, this, on the contrary, indicates an overabundance of this substance. When there is little manganese in the soil, the leaves turn yellow in the first stage, and then completely dry out. If the seedlings lack sulfur, then the plates not only acquire a “chicken” color, but also thicken greatly. To the touch, they become hard and dense.

What can be done?

In order not to wonder why the tomato seedlings turned yellow, and in a panic not to take rash actions, it is worth feeding the seedlings in a timely manner. Leading gardeners recommend fertilizing 7-8 days after emergence. After a couple of weeks, this procedure is carried out again. It is recommended to use mineral supplements.

Timely provision of vegetable crops nutrients will avoid yellowing, but it is important to shed each bush with fertilizers individually.

Cramped dishes and frost

Many gardeners are interested in why the leaves of tomato seedlings turn yellow at home, and what can be done in this case. It is not uncommon for a plant to be too crowded in a container. Seedlings can be saved if they are transplanted. It is necessary to extract each sprout from the old soil and clean its root system. If there are rotten or darkened roots, then it is better to remove such seedlings. You will also need to remove all yellow leaves.

When seedlings are kept in a greenhouse, frost can cause them to turn yellow. If the soil is a little frozen, then the cotyledon leaves of the tomato seedlings often turn yellow, and the plants themselves stop growing somewhat. What can be done in this situation? Solving the problem involves creating optimal conditions in a greenhouse or greenhouse. To do this, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of installing heat sources to maintain a higher temperature regime.

Diseases that cause yellowing

Not only improper care can lead to problems with tomato seedlings. Often the most caring and experienced gardeners they are interested in why tomato seedlings turn yellow and dry, subject to all agricultural standards.
In these situations, the problem may be due to the infection of plants with a particular disease.

Can be infected:

• the soil;
• seed
• fertilizers applied to the soil.

Usually, yellowing is caused by diseases of a fungal nature of origin.

Common black leg disease

One of the most common tomato diseases is blackleg. It’s good if you managed to see at an early stage that tomato seedlings are turning yellow - what to do in such a situation? To begin with, it is worth determining that this is really a black leg. Diagnosing the disease is easy. It is necessary to evaluate the stem of the plant. It becomes soft, and darkens at the bottom. Seedlings often fall. root system may look quite healthy, but the leaves wither and wither. Usually it is impossible to save seedlings from the black leg.

Well, if you managed to notice the first signs of the disease. Then you can transplant healthy sprouts into new ground having previously disinfected it. If the leaves of tomato seedlings turn yellow from a black leg - what should summer residents do. The best way to prevent the disease. To prevent the occurrence of this disease, it is recommended to shed the substrate with a pink solution of potassium permanganate.

Fusarium fungal disease

There are other answers to the question of why the leaves of tomato seedlings turn yellow, subject to the basic rules of agricultural technology. The cause may be a dangerous fungal disease called fusarium. This ailment is indicated by several factors. These include not only yellowing, but also the general lethargy of the plant. It looks sickly and sick. It looks like it hasn't been watered for a long time.