Sowing cabbage seedlings in a greenhouse. Growing seedlings of cabbage at home

In the old days, a peasant's garden was impossible to imagine without cabbage. So today, even on two acres, a couple of heads of this healthy and tasty vegetable will definitely grow. But in modern greenhouses today they grow not only white cabbage, but no less useful Beijing, and Chinese, and colored, and Savoy, and Brussels, and even broccoli. This is because, although cabbage itself is a cold-resistant plant, it can still be destroyed by long-term low temperatures. That's why only a greenhouse can guarantee it good harvest. And cabbage cannot do without increased moisture, especially its seeds. But an overabundance, of course, can lead to the death of the roots. Therefore, in the cultivation of this particular vegetable, everything is good in moderation, and this measure is just the easiest to control indoors.

In a greenhouse for moisture-loving cabbage - just the same ideal conditions. That is why growing in it far from one dozen goals per season is within the power of even a novice summer resident. The main thing is to correctly calculate the timing of planting seeds, and growing cabbage in a greenhouse will be an easy and enjoyable experience.

Option # 1 - early cabbage

The most important thing is to choose the right variety early cabbage. So, from the most well-proven ones we can name the following:

• "Dietmar early". This is early ripe variety, which already 50-70 days after planting seedlings in the greenhouse will give the first harvest.
• "Golden Hectare 1432". This variety has a period from planting seedlings to the first heads of cabbage - 105-129 days. This variety is distinguished by the resistance of heads to cracking, which in itself is important.
• "Number One K-206". If you use this variety, then about 100-125 days will pass from the appearance of the first shoots to heads of cabbage. But all heads of cabbage will ripen together, giving from 25 to 40 kg of yield for every 10 m 2. It is only important to remove everything on time - otherwise the heads of cabbage will have time to crack.

There are no special tricks for growing such cabbage, so we move on.

Option #2 - Chinese cabbage

Delicious and beautiful Beijing cabbage - early ripening. Growing it is the most convenient seedling way. Needed for Beijing cabbage in the first place high humidity – 70-80%.

Also, to successfully grow in a greenhouse chinese cabbage, it is important to maintain optimal temperature regime. After all, this cabbage is a cold-resistant plant, and exceeding the temperature in the greenhouse by more than + 15-20 ° C will immediately lead to the formation flowering stem. And in general, a violation of the temperature regime is fraught with plant disease, which may simply not form a head.

Option #3 - cauliflower

It is not difficult to grow cauliflower in a greenhouse, although it is considered the most demanding - it is only important to provide optimum temperature and air humidity. So, if the temperature is too high and the humidity is low, then the cauliflower heads will lose their density and begin to crumble. That is why the soil for growing cauliflower must be well fertilized and moistened - these are indispensable conditions.

Cauliflower seedlings can be planted in greenhouses and greenhouses at the end of March. Portable greenhouses are best suited for this purpose, because the growing season of this plant is quite large. In any case, the most important thing is to harvest the cauliflower in time so that the plant heads do not have time to crumble.

Option #4 - white cabbage

The most difficult thing is to correctly grow seedlings of white cabbage. For this, a special biofuel greenhouse is most suitable, which can be used since March. BUT ready seedlings after that - transplanted into a greenhouse.

Growing seedlings

A good alternative to such a greenhouse is steam beds, which can be made by digging a pit 125 cm wide and 30 cm deep. Biofuel should be laid at the bottom, and sprinkled with a layer of earth on top. Finally, cover with foil. And the simplest shelters for growing seedlings are film, frame type. You can install them directly on the ridges in the spring. The main thing is that their height should not be less than 30 cm.

So, as soon as the soil in the greenhouse or under the shelter is warmed up to 18-20 ° C, you can start sowing itself. For this, it is advisable to choose the darkest and largest seeds, soak them in water at 50 ° C for 20 minutes, cool quickly by immersion in cold water for 3 minutes, and dry on a newspaper, scattering very thin layer. It is also advisable to disinfect the seeds of white cabbage even before planting by treating them with a solution of nitrophoska.

After that, the seeds can be sown in a greenhouse, covering it with frames and throwing any warming material on top of it. The first shoots will already be on the 4th day, and the shelter for the day will need to be removed. But when the first true leaf appears, all seedlings must be picked, or at least thinned out. After that, it is important to raise the temperature in the greenhouse by 2-3°C and maintain it already within 10-12°C.

After the seedlings have a few leaves, you need to intensify watering - but without waterlogging. It is best to water the seedlings early in the morning. And after picking, you can start feeding cabbage by taking 20 g of nitrogen fertilizers, 10 g of potash fertilizer and 40 g of superphosphate in a bucket of water - this is all for one greenhouse frame. And the second time, the seedlings will need to be fed only with nitrogen fertilizer, taking 25-20 g per bucket of water. And, finally, before moving the seedlings to the greenhouse, it is desirable to feed it for the third time - 30 g nitrogen fertilizer+ 20 g potassium + 20 g phosphorus + 1 bucket of water. If, by the way, fertilizers accidentally get on the leaves of plants, they must be washed off immediately. clean water.

Planting seedlings in a permanent place

And now, already a couple of days before the relocation of seedlings, greenhouses should be ventilated, leaving the frames open for the whole day and even at night, if the weather is good. And on the day of sampling, seedlings need to be well watered. Ideally, it should have at least 3 leaves per early varieties, 5 leaves in late and developed root system. It is not necessary to shake off the earth from the roots. And if it is possible to select seedlings, then preference should be given to one in which the stalks are lilac-green in color, and not pale green - this is a sign of an underdeveloped root system that will not be accepted well in greenhouse land. As a result, from one such frame you can get up to 600 seedlings.

The first watering of cabbage can be done only when the cabbage takes root in the greenhouse, but not earlier than 8 days.

Greenhouse cabbage care

By the way, special attention should be paid to the fertilizer of cabbage with potassium and nitrogen in the greenhouse - the formation of its head depends on this. Cannot stand white cabbage and shading - it needs a lot of light.

It's interesting that experienced gardeners it is advised to sow cabbage seeds for seedlings as early as mid-December, illuminating the seedlings with special lighting. And the heated greenhouse should be planted already on permanent place only at the age of 55-60 days. Moreover, nitrogen nutrition will need to be applied only in the first month, and then only potassium and phosphorus.

But, no matter what method of growing cabbage in greenhouses is chosen, the most important thing is compliance with the technology. That there is a sure guarantee that the harvest will please.

Cabbage does not belong to heat-loving and pampered crops, therefore it is rarely grown in greenhouses. But this method can be quite productive for germinating seedlings. If you know the temperature indicators necessary for the greenhouse, as well as when it is better to sow seeds and plant seedlings, you can get strong seedlings and, as a result, a good harvest.

Proper soil preparation

Depending on the external conditions and the climate of a particular region, planting dates may vary slightly. It is advisable to plant the seeds 2 months before transplanting, i.e. until the formation of a full-fledged seedling. Subject to planting in the ground in May, you need to sow cabbage seeds in March.

Since the culture loves moisture, you need to take this into account when choosing the soil composition, making it fertile and light. The best option is:

• 2 hours of humus;
• 1 hour of the selected type of soil (fertile chernozem, for example);
• 1 hour sand.

Sowing and seedling care

Seeds are preliminarily recommended to be processed in order to increase immunity, protect against pests and pathogenic microbes. It is permissible to use a solution of potassium permanganate or a selected chemical preparation. Folk way includes heat treatment: place for a few minutes in water at 50 ° C, then for a few seconds - in cold water, dry well.

Sprouting cabbage seeds before planting

The planting scheme depends on the chosen cultivation principle. If you follow the basic ones, in particular the future picking, the holes should be made every 2 cm, and the seeds should be sown with a distance of 1 cm.

If the pick is not planned, you must initially observe a greater distance:

• 5 cm between the beds;
• 3 cm between seeds.

Advice. In order for seedlings to appear earlier, the beds should be covered with a film. Subject to the temperature regime, they can be expected to germinate in 3-4 days. Immediately when sprouts appear, the film is removed so as not to interfere with growth.

It is necessary to observe the climatic regime for each period of seedling development. So, at the time of sowing and seed germination, indicators are needed:

• daytime: 15-17°C;
• during the day in cloudy weather: 13-15°C;
• after dark (evening and night): 7-9°C.

If the indicators are higher in the greenhouse, they must be deliberately lowered. This allows you to "harden" the seedlings, increase their vitality and strength.

When the seedlings sprout, the temperature should be slightly lowered - up to 8-10 ° C. Accordingly, on a cloudy day, a couple more degrees are forcibly removed, since the processes of photosynthesis at this moment are very inactive.

Attention! Excessive heating of the air leads to the fact that the seedlings acquire effeminacy and "stretch".

Picking and the secrets of growing strong seedlings

When plants form 1-2 leaves, it is permissible to dive or plant them. The soil may remain the same, but it is better to slightly change the composition in accordance with the recommendations:

• 3 hours peat;
• 1 hour humus;
• 20 g per 10 l of potassium sulfate substrate and ammonium nitrate and twice as much - superphosphate.

Picking and transplanting cabbage can be done when 2-3 leaves appear

In the absence of peat or if desired, ordinary garden soil is taken according to a similar principle, but then more humus will be required - 3 parts.

Transplantation should be done carefully, without disturbing the roots. After the procedure, it is advised to shade the cultures, and increase the temperature by a couple of degrees for 2 days.

Advice. Plants should be thoroughly watered a couple of hours before the procedure. After transplanting, repeat.

Watering the culture occurs according to the scheme: rarely, but plentifully. Ideally once every 10 days. It is important to control humidity. To balance it, the need to ventilate the greenhouse. And it is better to bring water in the morning.

After the appearance of 3 leaves on the bushes, it is time for primary feeding. Mineral fertilizers or a solution of liquid droppings or mullein - the choice is up to the summer resident. The second feeding occurs after 14 days with a slightly increased dosage. For example, they recommend:

• ammonium nitrate: I - 20 g, II - 30 g;
• potassium sulfate: I - 10 g, II - 20 g;
• superphosphate: I - 40 g, II - 60 g.

Transplantation and aftercare

If planned further cultivation crops in the garden, windows open in a few days, frames are removed so that the seedlings “harden”, get stronger and prepare for future environmental conditions. Before the procedure, it is better to feed the seedlings with minerals, increasing the proportion of potassium. In order not to overdo it with trace elements, you can dilute the solution wood ash, which acts as a natural substitute for potassium.

Attention! On the 60-65th day, the seedlings already acquire 6-7 leaves and reach 20-25 cm. The color is bright, saturated green. Sluggish, painful-looking seedlings should not be used for planting.

The scheme of planting in the garden is 60 * 30 cm. A similar algorithm is also suitable for leaving the crop in the greenhouse. The wells are pre-watered well. It is better to transplant a sprout with a lump of earth on a rhizome. Sprinkle with earth to the first leaves. Lightly tamp the ground near the stem. Care includes:

• plentiful, but relatively rare watering;
• top dressing once every 2 weeks (it is better to alternate organics with nitrogen-containing and potassium top dressings) or less often;
• it is permissible to sprinkle leaves with ash - this is both a kind of natural top dressing and protection from pests. Also suitable and ash solution applied by spraying;
• hilling, loosening the soil around the stem to release moisture to the root;
• weed cleaning.

Attention! Cabbage does not like shade. Only a large number of the sun contributes to its normal development.

Any varieties and types of cabbage are suitable for growing in a greenhouse, because this plant is resistant to temperature extremes. But still, seedlings of early varieties will have to be hardened before transplanting to the beds. A feature of this plant is that cabbage can be grown in a greenhouse, starting from seedlings, as well as using a seedless method by direct sowing seeds on the beds.

You should know that cabbage cannot be planted for more than three years in one greenhouse. Good predecessors for a crop are planting beets, tomatoes, legumes, cucumbers, potatoes or onions.

Soil preparation in the greenhouse

Suitable for planting cabbage different types fertile soil, except for heavy clay and sandy soil. Since autumn, the soil should be fed by adding 1 bucket for each sq.m. organic fertilizer(manure, humus, compost), 20 g of potassium chloride and 40 g of superphosphate.

The acidity should be near neutral. Too acidic soil is deoxidized with lime. In the spring, an additional bucket of manure and a glass or two of ash are added for each square meter. The soil is well dug up and loosened.

How to plant seedlings of cabbage in a greenhouse

For growing seedlings, the beds are made warm like a greenhouse, placing biofuel at a depth of 30 cm, and pouring soil on top. You will also have to build arcs or any suitable supports to cover the seedlings with insulating material. Seeds are sown when the soil in the garden warms up to 20 °. The optimal sowing time is February 5-15.

Seed preparation

Select large seeds of dark color and place them first for 20 minutes in hot water, then for 3 minutes in the cold. After that, the seeds are dried on paper or napkins. If white cabbage is being prepared for planting, then you can additionally process them in a nitrophoska solution.

Seeds of early varieties can be additionally hardened off to improve germination and seedling quality. To do this, they are kept at a temperature of 1-2 ° for a day.

Planting seeds in the ground

On the beds, grooves are made 3-4 cm deep with an interval of 15-20 cm, they are watered warm water. Seeds are applied in increments of 2-3 cm and sprinkled with soil with a layer of 2 cm. Cover the beds with insulating material.

Seedling care

Feed the seedlings three times:

1. After the appearance of the third leaflet, nitrogen, potassium fertilizer and superphosphate must be applied under the root in liquid form.
2. In the process of further growth, they are fed only with nitrogen.
3. Before transplanting, a mixture of potash, nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers is again applied to the garden.

Attention! Feed the seedlings carefully, avoiding getting fertilizer on the leaves. If this happens, immediately wash off the top dressing from the leaves with a stream of water.

Hardening seedlings of early cabbage

• After the daytime temperature is not lower than 15 °, the covering material is removed during the day for 15 minutes.
• After a week, increase the hardening time by 10 minutes, and every subsequent week add another 10 minutes.
• After the night temperature rises to + 8 °, a small window is left in the shelter of the bed for the whole night.
• Before transplanting to a permanent place, the shelter is removed for the whole day, if the weather allows.

Signs of quality seedlings

In good seedlings, the color of the leaves should be with a lilac tint. If the leaves are green, then this indicates a weak root. Large heads of cabbage are obtained from seedlings with a short thick stem and large leaves.

Transplanting seedlings to permanent beds

Early varieties of cabbage are transplanted in March-mid-April, when 4 true leaves are formed. For the rest of the varieties, 5-6 leaves are expected to form and the mid-ripening ones are transplanted from the beginning to the end of April, and the late ones from the end of April until the onset of hot May days.

Before planting cabbage seedlings in a greenhouse in a permanent place, it is watered abundantly. Transplantation is best done on a cloudy day or in the evening. The seedling roots are treated with a growth stimulator, and then the sprouts are planted on a bed spilled with warm water according to the scheme 30x30, 35x35 or 40x40 cm.

The first watering on the beds is carried out a week after transplantation. If a natural light not enough, you can artificially highlight the cabbage for the first time after transplanting to the beds.

How to plant cabbage in a greenhouse with seeds

The method of planting seeds has several advantages:

• there is no danger of damaging the weak roots of cabbage during transplantation;
• plant development is accelerated;
• higher yield.

Before planting cabbage in the greenhouse with seeds, the seed is treated with a 12% solution of hexachlorane. Seeds are planted at a depth of 2-3 cm, and the sowing time depends on when the temperature in the greenhouse rises to a favorable one.

After the appearance of 4 or 5 of this planting leaf, thin out, leaving the strongest sprouts with an interval of 40x50 cm. The sprouts are looked after the same as for ordinary seedlings.

Caring for planting cabbage in a greenhouse

5 main conditions for obtaining excellent harvest cabbages are:

• abundant watering;
• good illumination;
• temperature 15-20° (although the plant will not die even at 5°);
• timely feeding;
• protection against cabbage pests.

Watering rules

At first, cabbage is abundantly watered with warm water 3-4 times a week. After watering, the soil on the beds is loosened, but the loosening depth is gradually reduced so as not to damage the developing roots. Early white cabbage is additionally spud.

Watering is stopped 1-1.5 months before harvest. This will ensure good preservation of heads of cabbage for a long time.

Cabbage dressing

• A week after transplanting the seedlings to the beds, the cabbage is fed with a solution of 3 tablespoons of urea per bucket of water. Apply 1 liter per plant.
• Before tying a head of cabbage, the plants are fed with a solution of 3 tablespoons of nitrophoska per bucket of water. Apply 2 liters per plant.
• Every 2 weeks they are fed with a solution of bird droppings. To do this, the litter is poured with water per day, mixed several times, and diluted with water 10 times before feeding.

Pest protection

Most dangerous pests for planting cabbage in greenhouses:

• cabbage fly larvae (damage the roots of cauliflower and early white cabbage, the lower leaves become bluish, the plant fades in the heat);
• cabbage butterfly caterpillars (eat sheets to coarse veins);
• cruciferous flea(affects the leaves of young seedlings);
• cabbage aphid (sucks juices, leaves curl, become spotty, head does not develop).

To fight cabbage fly and cabbage (cabbage white) plants are pollinated with dust or a solution of hexachloran (6%) after planting, and then two more times with an interval of one week. You can also sprinkle the bed with a mixture of naphthalene and sand 1: 5 or pour the soil around the cabbage with a solution of thiophos.

To protect cabbage seedlings from cruciferous flea, it can be planted earlier so that the plant gets stronger before the period of insect activation. Fertilizing with slurry and saltpeter will also help accelerate growth.

To protect against cabbage aphids, before tying a head, cabbage is sprayed with a solution of metaphos or anabazine sulfate. You can prepare a tobacco solution for spraying, for which boil 2 liters of water with 400 g of tobacco dust for 2 hours, cool, strain, add 50 g of soap and dissolve in a bucket of water.

Cabbage requires less care at all stages of cultivation than many other popular vegetables, so even novice gardeners can safely plant cabbage in greenhouses.

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To be successful when growing cabbage, you must strictly follow the rules. They begin with the choice of variety, after which they prepare the soil, maintaining the technology for processing planting material. It is necessary to sow the seeds in the soil saturated with useful microelements. It is not enough to sow the seeds, but the seedlings should be cared for to prevent pests and fungal spores. For this, spraying with bio- and chemical preparations is carried out in time, folk remedies, fertilize each crop to achieve high yields.

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How to sow cabbage for seedlings?

Subject to the primary conditions, it is possible to achieve success in growing cabbage seedlings:

• correct selection of varieties;
• preparation of seeds for sowing;
• qualified preparation of planting soil;
• adhere to the exact landing dates;
• care of seedlings and their cultivation.

Variety selection and seed preparation

There are many varieties of garden cabbage. But many prefer white cabbage, red and cauliflower are less common. Peking, kohlrabi, broccoli and Brussels sprouts are also planted. Each species has a variety of varieties and hybrids.

Varieties are selected according to the goals that are pursued when growing a crop. For summer salads, early varieties are suitable, which ripen within 40-50 days after sowing the seeds. These include the Skorospelka variety or ultra-early F1 hybrids: Parel, Start and Express.

For conservation and fresh use, medium-late and mid-season varieties and hybrids are suitable, such as Slava, Gift, Amager, Megaton, Snow White. For pickling and winter storage choose Moscow late, Kolobok, Kharkov winter, Belarusian and many others.

Seeds are prepared for sowing in the following way:

1. 1. The most full-weight, large ones, with a diameter of at least two centimeters, are selected, dipped in a 3% saline solution, specimens that have settled to the bottom are selected, washed with warm clean water and slightly dried.
2. 2. For disinfection, the seed is placed for 30 minutes in a thermos with hot water, then - in cold clean water and again slightly dried.
3. 3. You can treat the seeds with Fitosporin by reading the instructions on the package.
4. 4. Growth energy is increased by a solution of microelements. They advise the funds "Epin" or "Ideal", there are others. An infusion of ordinary wood ash is no less effective.

Brightly colored or coated raw materials cannot be processed, as they are already ready for use.



How to prepare the soil?

Land for seedlings should be stocked in the fall. Having gathered the earth in containers, for example, in buckets, it is left to freeze under cover so that rain or melt water does not fall on it. If it was not possible to stock up on soil, then it is possible to prepare it in the spring, but a nutritious soil mixture is required, otherwise the seedlings will grow poorly. To do this, take sand or gravel, turf or garden soil, peat, humus in equal parts and mix. It is advised to disinfect the planting base in order to prevent infection of seedlings with diseases and bacteria, fungal formations.

A soil mixture is also prepared from sawdust scalded with boiling water, river sand, compost substrate in a ratio of 1:1:2. A little wood ash will not interfere with the growth of plants, but on the contrary, it will improve the composition of the soil with micro and macro elements, which will prevent the appearance of a black leg.

You should not take garden soil from those areas where radish, radish or cabbage grew, that is, crop rotation should be observed. In such soil, pathogens characteristic of cabbage infections remain. The material is not suitable after tomatoes.

The addition of agroperlite will loosen the substrate, and when the soil is moist, it absorbs excess moisture and distributes water between young seedlings. Perlite is added after the calcination and steaming procedure.

Experienced gardeners sift the soil so that they do not get into pots with seedlings earthworms, because in confined space they damage the crops that have sprouted.

Soil preparation also includes treatment against diseases and pests.



Disinfection of land for seedlings

Proper disinfection will save the life of young seedlings by ridding the soil of pathogens, fungal spores and insect eggs.

They offer a simple method of disinfection:

1. 1. Should be treated twice with a solution of potassium permanganate or blue vitriol by diluting one gram of the product in a liter of water. It is better to do this seven and three days before sowing. They are treated with Fitosporin or Extrasol, if they do not trust folk remedies.
2. 2. Put the soil watered with water on a baking sheet with a layer no thinner than 5-7 centimeters and bake in the oven for about 30 minutes at a temperature of 90 ° C.
3. 3. Steam in a water bath for about an hour, then dry slightly.
4. 4. When baking in foil or a sleeve for cooking meat, the effect of calcination and steaming is achieved, while the substrate retains moisture.
5. 5. Repeated freezing and thawing of the soil. Effective method weed control, but does not protect against late blight.
6. 6. Treatment with EM preparations 20 days before planting.

Heat treatment reduces soil fertility, as it destroys beneficial soil microorganisms along with pests. Therefore, biohumus is introduced into the soil in a ratio of 5% of the volume.

Sowing dates

Sowing dates vary depending on the type and variety of crops. During the sowing period, the presence of a greenhouse or a greenhouse, a nursery, make their own adjustments. The climatic conditions of the region are taken into account when growing any crops. But it is possible to determine the timing of sowing, given that the seedlings appear a week after sowing and it takes 40-45 days for the development of plants for early and a little more for medium-late and late species.

Early varieties of cabbage are sown already in February-March in the presence of heated greenhouses, but if they are not available, one should not rush to sow. The end of March and the first week of April are better suited for this, as amateur gardeners grow seedlings in the house, on windowsills.

Late varieties are sown in mid-April and early May. But one should not be late with the deadlines, since the seedlings are transferred to a new habitat long before the end of frost, since the culture is frost-resistant, and insect pests are not so active in spring.

How to sow?

To plant cabbage for seedlings, pots or boxes are filled with prepared soil. Grooves are made with a depth of 10-12 mm, the distance between rows is 30 mm. Scatter the seeds along the grooves with an interval of 10 mm, cover them with soil. Sprayed with water from a spray bottle. cover with glass or film, leave warm.

It is convenient to grow cabbage in transparent cups or special cassettes for seedlings without subsequent picking.

Seedling care at home

The sown seeds and emerging shoots love warmth and light, moisture. Therefore, these indicators should be kept under control in order to create favorable conditions for seedling development.

The optimum temperature for seedlings is considered to be 20-25 ° C. Illumination is important after the emergence of seedlings, and for newly sown it is not too necessary. With the appearance of small sprouts, the film is removed from the surface of the pots and rearranged to a bright place, close to sunlight. The temperature in the room should be at the level of 10-15 °C during the day and 9-10 °C at night. This is important in order to prevent seedlings from stretching.

In urban conditions, a glazed balcony is more suitable, but it should be remembered that white cabbage is more resistant to low temperatures, and the color is not stable. Therefore, for cauliflower, the temperature is maintained by 5-6 units more.

After seven days after germination, seedlings dive. Dive Benefits:

• no need to thin out seedlings;
• selection of strong seedlings and rejection of weak ones;
• development of a strong root system, which contributes to good survival in open ground and increase in yield;
• the root system is located in the upper part of the soil, more fertile and warm.

Along with pluses, there are also minuses. Dive somewhat delays growth and fruiting, as it takes time for rooting. Dive reduces the endurance of plants in the heat, as a result they look lethargic, oppressed, need plentiful and frequent watering.

Cabbage develops even without diving, so it is up to the owner of the site to decide whether to dive or not.

Dive seedlings into seedling pots

The dive technique looks like this:

• seedlings before diving should be watered abundantly and left for about 15 minutes alone;
• fill the seedling cups with soil and slightly compact;
• make holes in the cups with a special picking stick or just with your finger, so that the roots fit freely;
• pry off part of the seedlings together with the ground and separate one of the seedlings without damaging its stem and rhizomes;
• pinch off up to a third of the main root;
• lower the seedling into the hole to the cotyledon leaves, sprinkle with earth, slightly crush the soil to get rid of voids around the roots;
• water the transplanted seedlings;
• after absorbing moisture, add soil to the glass to the first leaves;
• for prevention from the black leg, you need to sprinkle the soil with calcined sand;
• before rooting, pickled specimens should be placed in a cool place, then returned to the windowsill.

Watering and fertilizing young seedlings

Regular airing is vital, especially after watering. .

No watering is required between sowing and germination. Then moisten once a week, but you should be guided by the state of the topsoil. Water when it dries up.

Water should be warm, used at room temperature. Do not use tap water if bleach is added to it. It is considered ideal rainwater. Water is poured onto the root system, and the leaves should be protected from liquid ingress, as they will turn yellow and fall off after a while.

To prevent plant disease, monitor appearance sprouts. If the leaves are green and the stems grow quickly, the legs are strong, then they do not feed. Otherwise, use one of the following:

• infusion of wood ash;
• urea, used if the leaves are pale at the rate of 30 g per 10 liters of water;
• infusion of mullein or bird droppings;
• ready-made fertilizers with trace elements, they contain required composition for the development of young plants.

Preparing feeds at home

Ash infusion is prepared as follows: after boiling 10 liters of water, pour 200 grams of ash, leave for about 24 hours, filter and use, adding a liter of infusion to clean water. Infusion of bird droppings: 1/3 of a 10-liter bucket is filled bird droppings, pour water to the neck and insist 3-4 days. When feeding, dilute with water in a ratio of 1:20. Top dressing is carried out after watering to preserve useful material concentrated around the roots.

Pest prevention

Most often cabbage is affected by voracious cruciferous fleas. They are able to destroy seedlings in a matter of days, if the seedlings are not treated with drugs. Young seedlings are advised to spray with Iskra-M, Bankol, Fury and others.

Biological products are safer. "Actofit" is effective against sucking and gnawing pests. They act only at temperatures above 18 ° C, and at low temperatures, the use of chemicals cannot be avoided.

Folk remedies are also useful and harmless. Use tobacco dust or a mixture of ash and dry mustard powder.

How to plant seedlings in open ground?

Strong squat specimens with 5-6 leaves are planted in open ground. The culture tolerates short-term frosts calmly, but if it is cold all week, then early varieties shoot arrows.

Preparation for transplantation goes like this:

1. 1. Hardening seedlings 10-14 days before planting. Take it out into the yard during the day, and bring it back at night. Gradually accustom to the wind and the sun. By the day of disembarkation, the time spent on fresh air up to a day.
2. 2. A week before the procedure, stop watering, but do not allow the soil to dry out so that the leaves do not fade.
3. 3. Feed the day before potash fertilizer, it is possible to process with Epin.
4. 4. Prepare the soil: remove debris, dig, fertilize, on square meter introduce a bucket of humus, compost and a glass of ash.

Cabbage planting scheme

Seedlings are arranged in a garden bed with a pretty long distance depending on the variety. For example, early varieties are recommended to be planted at a distance of 30-35 cm and left between rows of about 45-50 cm, and between late varieties leave from 40 to 50 cm, as they are more voluminous, and the distance between rows in this case is from 50 to 60 cm . You can determine at what distance to plant cabbage in the ground according to the diagram below.

Bushes are planted on a cloudy day in the morning or evening. Holes are made with a spatula. At least a liter of water is poured into the wells. Take the plant out of the pot one at a time. earthy clod together, set in holes. Seedlings are deepened to the first leaf, covered with soil, covering the roots and watered.

Cultivation of white cabbage usually begins with the preparation of seedlings. It is almost impossible to grow strong seedlings in a city apartment, it is too hot there, but it is not difficult to do this in greenhouses. It is only necessary to sow the seeds on time and put a little effort into caring for young plants.

Is it necessary to grow cabbage through seedlings

The question of the obligation to grow cabbage seedlings is connected with two points: what kind of cabbage are we talking about, and in what region do we live. The fact is that many late varieties of white cabbage have a life cycle of about six months, or even more. This means that even if the harvest is planned for mid-October, it is necessary to sow the seeds in early April, which is difficult to do directly in the garden in the middle zone. Early varieties stay in the garden for a much shorter time, but if they are sown immediately in a permanent place, then the harvest can no longer be called early.

However, it turns out that even in the southern regions, where March crops in the garden are quite possible, cabbage is often grown through seedlings; However, they do not do it at home. They simply sow the seeds in a garden bed thickly, and then plant them out, that is, they actually grow them through seedlings. What for? The fact is that with a transplant, cabbage heads work out better: a seemingly traumatic operation only benefits the seedlings.

Is it possible not to bother and immediately sow the seeds in the holes in a permanent place, and harvest in the fall? It's possible, they do it too. But often with this simplistic approach, the plants are weaker (they do not develop roots so well), and as a result, the yield is reduced. Thus, it must be recognized that growing white cabbage through the seedling stage is optional, but highly desirable.

When to sow: lunar calendar 2019

You should immediately decide on the order of sowing cabbage seeds different terms maturation. Not everything is clear here, although the logic is there. Seedlings of any variety are planted in a permanent place at the age of 40 to 50 days. If the cabbage is early, then you need to take full advantage of this term and get vitamin products as early as possible. This cabbage will not be stored, heads of cabbage are usually small, not very dense, they are happily eaten in the form of salads. Therefore, early varieties are sown first for seedlings. Usually in middle lane this happens in mid-March, but if there is such an opportunity (southern region or greenhouse), this can be done in February.

Early cabbages have small heads, but the meaning is not in size: the road is a spoon for dinner

Cabbage of late varieties is intended for long-term storage in the cellars fresh. Her heads of cabbage reach ripeness in autumn months, even fall on the beds under slight frosts, which does not bother them at all: they should be put in the cellar as soon as possible. Therefore too early sowing not required. However, based on the length of the growing season, it turns out that the approximate sowing dates for late varieties fall in mid-April.

Late varieties grow in dense heads, stay in the garden for a long time, so they also have to be sown early.

Cabbage of medium ripening is grown for autumn consumption (it is stored worse than late) and pickling, which is usually done in autumn. Therefore, these varieties are harvested in September-October, and in order for it to ripen by this time, seeds can be sown a little later than in the case of late varieties. Sowing dates are around the end of April. Obviously, all the dates mentioned are approximate: in the south they shift somewhat in one direction, and in the conditions of the Urals or Siberia - in the other.

At the end of the twentieth century, a boom began among gardeners associated with the publication different kind sowing calendars associated with life cycle heavenly luminaries. The most popular is the Lunar calendar, which links the favorable and unfavorable days of gardening with the constellation in which the Earth's satellite, the Moon, is located.

There is indisputable evidence that the growth of various crops is associated in different ways with the phases of the moon, but it is difficult to judge how serious this influence is: as a rule, approximately the same yield is obtained by those summer residents who strictly follow the calendars, and those who simply have no time to follow them .

Counts,that the periods of new moon and full moon are forbidden for sowing, transplanting and any other operations with plants. These days, the flora, as it were, freezes and prepares for a change. lunar phase. If strictly followed Lunar calendar, then in 2019 are allowed next days for sowing cabbage:

• in February - 21, 22, 25, 26;
• in March - 20, 21, 25, 26;
• in April - 18, 21;
• in May - 19, 24.

It would be sad to look at these dates (and they are given in many authoritative sources!). If they are strictly followed, then the most right time: beginning and middle of April. And if the gardener should be at work on the 18th and 21st... Fortunately, other publications publish their versions of the calendar, less strict ones, and the April dates in them look like this: April 7, 8, 18, 20-21.

Well, it’s easier, there are days at the beginning of the month. All this would be ridiculous, but indeed, after looking through a dozen magazines and Internet sites, you come to the conclusion that many people write the way they want, and if this is the case, then it makes little sense to strictly follow such calendars. There is time - we focus on the source we like, trustworthy. No - we sow when we have free time, relying on scientific data and our own experience.

Preliminary preparation

Preparation for sowing cabbage for seedlings consists in the purchase and processing of containers, seeds and soil. In terms of packaging, nothing special is required. Yes, it is very convenient to use peat tablets or pots. But cabbage is normally transplanted, so you can grow it at home even in common boxes. And since the picking is only good for her, it is best to prepare small boxes and any cups about 7 x 7 cm in size. Nothing is needed in the greenhouse: the seeds are sown directly into the ground.

Seed preparation

Regarding the preparation of seeds, you can read many recipes. These include calibration, decontamination, soaking, tempering, etc. Let's ask ourselves: do we have time for all this? If the seeds are collected in your own garden, then almost all of this, indeed, will have to be done. But how many summer residents prepare their cabbage seeds, which she gives only in the second year? After all, it is necessary to preserve a healthy stalk until spring, plant it, take care of it ... The store now sells seeds for every taste, and in the case of cabbage varieties, they are not so expensive.

Yes, until recently there were firms that could hardly be trusted, and instead of cabbage you could buy, for example, turnips. Now most of these organizations have left the market. True, regrading happens, and you can run into a completely different variety that you wanted, but, in terms of quality, the seeds, as a rule, are sold quite suitable, and they do not require any additional preparation. Cabbage seeds remain viable for 4–5 years, and fresher seeds are usually put on the market.

cabbage seeds medium size, easy to handle

Calibration is advised to be carried out by lowering the seeds into salt water. Well, this method is good for light seeds like peppers or tomatoes! In cabbage, almost all the seeds will sink, only the broken ones will float, and there are very few of them. Do I need to disinfect purchased seeds? I haven't done this in many years. But those who wish, fearing for the presence of infectious agents in the bag, can do this. The recipe is simple: 15–20 minutes in a dark purple solution of potassium permanganate at a temperature of about 48–50 ° C, followed by rinsing.

Many gardeners advise soaking seeds before sowing, including in solutions of microfertilizers. Of course, this does not harm at all, but it will not give a big effect either. As, however, and hardening of soaked seeds in the refrigerator. Cabbage is so cold-resistant that such measures will only take your time, and in our fast age you can spend it on something more necessary.

High-quality cabbage seeds, if they are not found on some treasured shelf and have not been stored there for many years, will sprout even without any preparation, dry, and a difference of one or two days will not make us weather. Therefore, you should listen to all the advice, but pass them through yourself, deciding whether to carry out this or that stage.

Soil preparation

But careful preparation of the soil for sowing is already more serious, especially if the soil is taken from the garden. At least, it is impossible to take it from the garden where cruciferous plants (cabbage, radish, radish) grew. For cultivation a small amount you can buy seedlings in the store, but if you have something to cook from, you should not waste your money. Moreover, we are only talking about growing seedlings at home, and this is done infrequently: at home, cabbage seedlings are just very hot.

So, if home sowing is supposed, then the best composition soil - sod land, peat and sand, taken in equal proportions. In addition, half a bucket must be added to a bucket of such a mixture. liter jar wood ash. You can also have a couple of tablespoons of superphosphate, but you can do without it, better later fill the lack of fertilizers with top dressing.

For growing cabbage seedlings, it is not recommended to use humus, even good quality: at the same time, she grows more pampered.

Self-prepared soil must be disinfected. The choice of method is an amateur. Freezing the soil is easy to do, but it does not kill all possible pathogens. Steaming in the oven at a temperature of about 100 ° C is more reliable, but at this time it will not be so pleasant to be in the kitchen. In addition, hot processing kills beneficial microorganisms in the soil. Probably, optimal way is, after all, pouring with a solution of potassium permanganate.

In contrast to seed dressing, for soil, the concentration of the solution should be lower. There is no point in bringing numerical values: Well, how will the average Russian layman take a sample of 0.5 g at home? It should be a pink solution. Not a faint pink, but such that the coloring is quite intense. But through the solution, poured into a liter jar, it was possible to discern what was behind it. Here's a guideline. It's better to shed the soil warm solution but not hot. So that it becomes clearly wet. After that, she will have to dry out for a couple of days, otherwise it will not even be possible to make grooves for sowing.

The middle solution is suitable for soil disinfection, and the one on the left is suitable for seeds.

How to grow seedlings of early and late cabbage at home

Cabbage seedlings are elementary grown in open ground, at least late and mid-late varieties and in not too northern regions. At home, in a city apartment, this has to be done only for early receipt products, but grow quality seedlings houses are archaic. The best option for most regions is a small greenhouse or unheated greenhouse.

On the windowsill in a house or apartment

If it became necessary to grow seedlings on the windowsill, then this should be the coldest and most illuminated window sill in the house. And the owners will have to put up with constantly open windows: a temperature comfortable for a person for cabbage seedlings is detrimental.

It makes no sense to immediately sow the seeds in separate pots, unless these are peat tablets. All the same, 10 days after germination, they will need to be transplanted with pinching off the tip of the main root: this is the only way to grow relatively strong seedlings at home. Therefore, we sow in a small box. Two weeks of stay of seedlings remarkably withstand suitable rectangular carton boxes from under milk, kefir, juice, etc. If you cut off one of the large sides of the box, and make several holes in the second to drain excess water, you get a great container for the first time. Moreover, a soil layer of more than 4 cm is not needed in the sowing container. The sowing technique is simple, but seedling care is not very good:

1. We sow the seeds in moist soil, in grooves, at a distance of about 3 cm from each other. Embedding depth - about 1 cm.

   For primary sowing, any improvised container will do.

2. We fall asleep with soil, compact. You can cover with glass, but they will rise like that. We have a few days of quiet life, as long as the box of crops can be at room temperature.
3. As soon as at least a couple of sprouts have hatched, put the box into the brightest light and into the cold: 10–12 o C during the day and 6–8 o C at night. If you miss at least one day, you can throw it away and sow again. During the day in the heat, the seedlings stretch up to 5 cm, and they can no longer be saved.
4. If everything is fine with the temperature (only the owners are cold), care is simple: do not overheat for the first week, then you can go a few degrees higher, but not more than 16 ° C. Night heat is especially terrible.
5. Water lightly so as not to dry out the soil. And as much light as possible! If the seedlings are too thick and are already shading themselves, do not wait, we thin out.
6. While there is time, we are preparing a new home. Individual cups are best, but a more spacious drawer with a depth of at least 7-8 cm is also suitable.
7. In ten days, the first true leaf will lean over the cotyledon leaves. This is a signal that it is time for the seedlings to dive.
8. The pick is usual: carefully dig out the seedlings. If the spine is small, you can hardly touch it, and pinch the medium and long ones, tearing off a few millimeters from the top. We plant in the hole, squeeze the soil with our fingers, carefully water it. If we dive into a common box, the diagram is approximately 6 x 6 cm.

   It is necessary to dive early: there should be at most one real leaf

9. For the first few days we put it in partial shade, the temperature is 18–20 ° C. Then we return it to a cold illuminated window sill.
10. In the phase of two true leaves, we feed with any complex fertilizer according to his instructions. A week before planting in the garden, we repeat top dressing.
11. Immediately after the second feeding, we accustom the seedlings to even more severe conditions, taking them out to the balcony for a while.

Seedlings ready for planting should have a stocky appearance, a thick stem and 5-6 succulent leaves.

Good seedlings are low, but strong

The advantage of growing seedlings on the windowsill is only one: they are supervised all the time. But it creates a lot of inconvenience.

Video: growing cabbage seedlings

in the greenhouse

If there is a small unheated greenhouse in the country, it is better to use this option. True, it will be necessary to visit the seedlings often: ideally, at least every other day. The greenhouse cultivation of early cabbage seedlings makes the most sense; varieties more late deadline ripening in the middle lane and in the south, it will be possible to sow already in open ground, under temporary shelter.

Sowing early varieties of cabbage in a greenhouse can be carried out at any time, which is determined only by the climate of the region and the current weather: the seeds must germinate at a temperature inside the greenhouse of at least 10 ° C, otherwise their hatching will take too long, and under adverse conditions, the death of part of the seeds is possible. You can sow both in a box (just like in an apartment), and directly in a prepared seedling bed.

The first method of growing seedlings is no different from growing on a windowsill: the same sowing, the same care, compliance with temperature, humidity and light conditions. But picking is possible both in cups or big box, and directly into the garden, as it is more convenient for the gardener.

If sowing seeds is carried out in a garden bed, it is necessary to prepare the soil in it in the same way as for a box: make it loose and safe. It is better to replace the soil in the seedbed in general, preparing it in the same way as at home: from earth, sand, peat and ash. Before sowing, shed it with a solution of potassium permanganate, let it dry, loosen and sow the seeds according to a convenient pattern.

The latter implies that seedlings can be grown in the garden without picking, if only the temperature is strictly observed. If by the time the true leaves are formed, the seedlings have not stretched at all, the picking can be omitted. Obviously, if you plan to do without picking, you should immediately sow the seeds less often, according to the 6 x 6 cm scheme (or thin out the seedlings after they sprout and grow slightly).

In the greenhouse, seedlings can be grown both in pots and in the garden.

Growing in a greenhouse involves systematic ventilation by opening doors or windows. The risk of infection with a black leg is no lower than at home, and this sore attacks, first of all, with excessive soil and air moisture. Growing seedlings of cabbage in a greenhouse is more convenient than at home, but these advantages are manifested only on the condition that the owner can systematically monitor its condition.

Video: cabbage seedlings in a greenhouse

Outdoor cultivation

In the garden, you can immediately sow cabbage seeds in a permanent place, as soon as the weather allows. To reduce the risk, several seeds are placed in each prepared well and for the first time the wells are covered with a cropped plastic bottle. This approach saves time because it does not require a subsequent transplant, but, as a rule, in early spring the earth is still so difficult to work with that it is easier to prepare a small seedling bed than big garden for growing cabbage in the "from and to" mode.

Video: growing cabbage in the ground without seedlings

Of course, the possibility of growing seedlings in the garden also depends on when it will be possible to get to the site: sometimes the roads dry out too late. But as a rule, in central Russia in mid-April, sowing is already possible. It is better to prepare a small bed in the fall, dug it up well with the addition of a fair amount of wood ash. Then, on the very first spring visit to the dacha, you can only slightly loosen the soil and, having made grooves, sow seeds in them.

By the way, rows of cabbage can be alternated with rows of relatively cold-resistant annual flowers: asters, phlox, godetia, etc. If you take a chance, you can also sow dahlias. Funny boys”, and marigolds, and salvia.

After sowing, the bed should be covered with plastic wrap. But it is better to stretch it at a height of 10-15 cm. Window frames with opening sashes, which were thrown away in large quantities during the boom of plastic windows, are ideal for such a temporary shelter. Having nailed boards with a width of 10 cm and above along the perimeter of such a frame, we get a wonderful portable greenhouse.

Under such a shelter it will not be too hot, and you should not be afraid that the shoots will stretch. No, this is at home one day of delay with a decrease in temperature leads to the death of seedlings. In the open field, when we arrive at the site next weekend, we may not see seedlings yet, depending on the weather. Well, in another week shoots will appear for sure; by then it will be warmer and the shelter can be removed.

For the first week, you can cover the crops with any improvised material.

In open ground, watering of seedlings is almost never required: there are enough winter reserves of moisture in the soil. It is only necessary to periodically loosen the earth between the rows and remove weeds. Top dressing is desirable: in the same way as at home, in the phase of two true leaves and after another two weeks. It is not necessary to dive, but thinning is necessary: ​​in rows, 6–7 cm should be left between plants. It will be possible to plant seedlings in a garden bed at the usual time.

The advantage of open ground is colossal: seedlings never stretch. She has enough light and is still quite cool. No need to mess with containers for sowing, drag boxes back and forth ... Disadvantages? Yes, in fact, they are not.

Benefits of using cassettes

Let's get back to housing. Talking about individual pots, we completely forgot to discuss what they should be. But those days have passed when the housewives themselves folded the semblance of cups from polyethylene film or paper. Now the most economical ones collect plastic cups from sour cream, cottage cheese, etc. all year round. It is important that they are not too small: you need a volume of at least 200 ml.

Ordinary cassettes are a box divided into cells

But it is even more convenient to use the so-called cassettes: in them, individual cups are combined into a common box-type matrix. They are easy to transport, but each bush in them lives in its own home, and the roots do not intertwine. And the most convenient if they also have removable bottoms. Not quite removable, but easily pushed out by pressing a finger along with a clod of earth and a seedling bush. Seedlings are easily removed from such cups and without damage to the root system. The relative minus (they cost money) is compensated by durability: such cassettes serve for many years.

And this is how individual cups with an easily retractable bottom look like: they are also placed in a common tray

Use of peat tablets

Peat tablets are compressed peat with additions of fertilizers and, sometimes, growth stimulants. Issued different sizes: from 2.5 cm in diameter. Before use, the tablets are placed in a pan and gradually poured with plenty of water. Water is absorbed, the tablets grow up (they are limited by a braid from the sides) and turn into cylindrical peat containers for sowing seeds. A small recess is made for the seed in one of the ends.

Water pills swell and turn into nutrient pots

For cabbage, you need to use tablets with a diameter of 4 cm or more. Just in case, 2-3 seeds are sown in each tablet, and then excess plants are cut off. The pallet with tablets is kept at room temperature and in the light until shoots appear. Then the temperature is sharply reduced and seedlings are grown under normal conditions.

Tablets are poured "from below", pouring water into the pan; the right amount of moisture is absorbed into the peat.

Feeding is not necessary: ​​the material of the tablets contains a sufficient amount nutrients. Diving when using tablets is not required, but if the roots begin to sprout and intertwine with the roots of neighbors, the seedlings, along with the tablet, will have to be transplanted into a larger pot with soil mixture. The convenience of use peat tablets obviously. The downsides are that the tablets are relatively expensive, and it only makes sense to buy them in small quantities.

Features of growing seedlings in different regions of Russia

The technology for growing cabbage seedlings does not depend on the region: the recipes are quite standard. Naturally, the timing of sowing seeds and the place differ: in the south there is no point in sowing cabbage in apartment conditions, but in the north this often has to be done.

So, in the Moscow region, the seeds of early cabbage are sown in late March or early April, and this can only be done at home or in a greenhouse. But late cabbage is sown already in open ground, as soon as the weather permits. In the Kuban, sowing in the garden is possible already in March, and in Siberia or the Urals - not earlier than the end of April. If in the middle lane and in the south, before planting seedlings in open ground, hardening can be carried out (this is a desirable stage), but in the Siberian region it is mandatory.

In the southern regions (Krasnodar and Stavropol Territories, Astrakhan Region), in mid-March, it is already possible to even plant seedlings in open ground, so sowing seeds in an unheated greenhouse is possible in mid-February. In these regions, on the contrary, it is desirable to finish all things with cabbage in the spring: even adult plants cannot stand extreme heat. But in the conditions, for example, Leningrad region late cabbage, sown on seedlings with a slight delay, may not have time to form properly, so seeds are sown here in March or April, but greenhouse conditions are used for this.

If you observe the temperature regime, give enough light and water in moderation, cabbage seedlings grow strong and healthy. Unless, of course, some infection was introduced with the soil. We have already discussed the issue of pulling seedlings: if it has grown a few centimeters in the first day, it is better to throw it away. If the stretch is small, you can carefully pour clean soil to the roots, water lightly and immediately correct the flaws with heat and light.

The main danger for cabbage seedlings is the black leg. Its first sign is the blackening of the root collar, the thinning of the stem, and then its drying out. At the first suspicion of a disease, diseased specimens should be carefully pulled out and discarded, the soil should be poured with a light pink solution of potassium permanganate, and clean river sand. Even more reliable means there will be a transplant of healthy plants in a clean land.

Seedlings that have fallen ill with a black leg cannot be saved, but you can try to save neighboring, still healthy plants

Sometimes seedlings acquire an unnatural blue-violet hue. If this is not a characteristic color for the variety, most likely the color is associated with deviations from the regime. Maybe it's just not enough food, and liquid top dressing able to remedy the situation. Yellowing of seedlings may also be due to a lack of any nutrients or errors in watering.

Sometimes the leaves of cabbage seedlings are covered with small holes. There are several reasons, but only one serious one: perhaps a cruciferous flea was brought with the soil. It can be destroyed in seedlings only by spraying with chemicals: for starters, you can try a relatively safe Bordeaux liquid or even an ash infusion. It is undesirable to use more severe chemicals on seedlings.

Other pests cabbage plants seedlings are rarely affected, and if they are found, it is necessary to study the relevant literature and apply specific chemicals. But if the seedlings are clearly dying, unfortunately, nothing can be done already. In most cases, the owner was to blame when he did something wrong. Well, sometimes - accidentally caught pests that were not noticed in time. Most often, seedlings die from a black leg. But when grown in open ground, seedlings almost never die.

In our following material you will learn about all the rules for planting bell pepper for seedlings and the features of caring for it:

Growing cabbage seedlings is not difficult, unless they are doing it in a warm city apartment. Comfortable conditions for seedlings and its host are radically different. But if conditions of good light and coolness are created, cabbage seedlings grow strong and healthy: other operations when caring for it do not require anything supernatural.