Groundwater drainage system. Rainwater drainage from the foundation of the house - how to make a system

The foundation is the foundation, the support of the building, it is on its quality, strength and integrity that the life of the house depends. The integrity of the foundation is broken, first of all, under the influence of water that comes into contact with it during rains, runoff of melted snow, a rise in the level of groundwater (or the constant presence of groundwater at a high level), etc. As a result, the walls of the foundation get wet, damp, overgrown with mold , and moisture gradually gathers around and gets to the upper floors.

All of the above problems demonstrate the importance of the timely operation of drainage from the foundation of the building. Moreover, the drainage of the foundation must be carried out even in the process of creating a residential structure in order to carefully consider the design of the drainage system, calculate the angle of inclination, select suitable materials for drainage and calculate the depth at which structural elements should be located.

Drainage materials

If you comply with all design standards and use only high-quality materials, then effective drainage of the foundation can be done even with your own hands.

It is extremely important at the stage of designing a drainage system to calculate the degree of load to which trays and drains will be subjected. If the load is high, then the materials must be chosen very strong, plastic in this case will not work, but durable concrete will do just fine. Wells, gutters and channels made of concrete can withstand a load of up to 90 tons.

Gutters that play the role of water drainage can be extended by using cast iron protective gratings. If carefully attached, they will cover all external elements of the system.
In addition, storm water inlets can also be placed around the territory of a private house, which will collect water pointwise. In order to choose the material of their execution, you need to know the degree of operational load.

Wall drainage is a device that provides drainage and consists of fittings and special perforated plastic drainage pipes.

The pipes are laid in grooves prepared in advance around the perimeter of the house, filled with a drainage layer.

For the drainage system, pipes with both corrugated and smooth surfaces can be used. Smoothness gives good throughput, which intensifies the removal, and the corrugation in the pipe increases its rigidity, and, consequently, strength.

Foundation drainage: varieties and features

Drainage happens:

• open - creating ditches;
• closed - laying drainage pipes;
• rabiya (filling method).

With your own hands, it is most easy to perform open drainage, in this case, the sequence of actions is as follows:

• digging along the entire perimeter of ditches half a meter wide and a meter deep;
• preparation of ditches: beveling the walls at an angle of 30 degrees.

Water will accumulate in the grooves, which will subsequently be discharged into the main drainage ditch. Naturally, if the site is sloped, it will be easier for the open drainage system to drain water away from the house, so its efficiency will be much higher.

Closed drainage looks like a deep (one and a half meters) trench, about 30 cm wide.

You can distinguish the following rules for laying such drainage with your own hands:

1. The pipe responsible for the drainage of water must be inclined towards the slope of the natural flow, or towards the drainage well.
2. The bottom of the trench is densely covered with rubble or sand.
3. Pipes must be wrapped with filtered material, and after direct laying in the trench, they must be covered with material, which will later be a water-bearing layer.
4. After laying, all ditches must be covered with soil and turf laid.
5. After wrapping the pipes with special material, they are laid on the bottom and sprinkled with material, which will later play the role of a water-bearing layer.

Now the ditch is sprinkled with soil and the removed sod is laid in place.

How to divert melt and storm water from the foundation

To protect the foundation of the house from rain and melt water, you can use a blind area. Water drainage can be carried out by installing surface drainage trays along the blind area. It is worth remembering that in the spring, the trays will clog very quickly, because the melt water will freely run over the frozen ground without being absorbed into it.

Foundation pavement device

In addition, at night the temperature will drop, the water will freeze, it will be impossible to drain it, and the trays will become useless. It is more expedient to use the device from the trays in the summer: storm water will freely fall from the lawns directly into the drainage device.
In addition, you can divert water with your own hands almost free of charge and more efficiently. This method is called watershed creation and landscape modeling.

To create a watershed, you only need a shovel, a rake and a wheelbarrow to transport the earth. First of all, the parameters of the watershed are calculated: shape, length and width. A direct watershed line is drawn in large areas: near a private house, cottage, parking lot.

Small objects are limited by a watershed in the form of an arc, at a distance of about four meters from the beginning of the foundation. In this case, drainage is carried out in a ditch or a special drainage well.

In order for water to drain naturally, it is necessary to make the depth of the watershed above the bottom of the cuvette and below the level of the blind area by 20 cm.

After marking the watersheds, you can begin to create them.

How to make watersheds?

There are a couple of ways to create watersheds:

1. The first method involves digging a canal along the bottom of the watershed, inclined towards the ditch. The degree of inclination is calculated using the level. After that, it is necessary to dig several channels-beacons coming from the blind area and converging together in the first channel. After that, the soil is removed between the beacons.
2. The second way: to ensure drainage at the bottom of the watershed, leaning in the direction from the blind area, the soil is removed. Further, the same soil is compacted behind the watershed, creating a slope from the building. The house will eventually stand on a slight elevation, giving good drainage from the foundation down into the ditch.

Lawns planted near the house will also help to strengthen drainage.

If a natural meadow does not prevent the penetration of rainwater into the ground, then a grown, strong lawn is able to divert water along the slope, so that impregnation occurs only 3-4 cm of soil.

This protective property of the lawn is due to the content of a dense fibrous grass mixture in it, which (with the correct laying of the lawn) blocks the penetration of water into the depths.

How to divert groundwater from the foundation of a private house with your own hands?

The foundation of any house, and first of all, a private one, is subject to the negative influence of ground water. They contain components that can destroy the concrete base. Even if the house is carefully waterproofed and equipped with supports, this does not guarantee protection from the influence of groundwater and further destruction. Only foundation drainage can provide such protection and provide drainage.

The main stages of creating a closed drainage with your own hands:

1. Digging a trench half a meter wide and a depth of half to one and a half meters. Dig should be tilted towards the ditch into which the water will merge.
2. Backfilling the trench bottom with sand and further compacting, taking into account the angle of the bottom.
3. Laying drainage pipes on the sand (if there are no special perforated ones, you can do them yourself: by drilling holes in ordinary plumbing pipes in a 180-degree sector).
4. Powdering pipes first with large, and then with small gravel and tamping a layer of earth on top of the gravel.
5. In the bend of the drainage system, a manhole must be installed, to which pipes with holes for the catchment are attached. Pipes should lead to the very borders of the site.

Now you need to organize the drainage of water outside private property:

• dig a trench again;
• make a slope and cover with sand;
• we put pipes without holes (there is no need to collect water from the lawn here);
• we fill up the pipes and lay the earth and turf in place.

Thus, foundation drainage is an operation, before which it is not recommended to engage in the direct construction of a house. Drainage provides protection around the foundation, removing excess moisture from it and, therefore, the long-term operation of the building.

Experienced builders and suburban residents are well aware that "extra" water on the site is bad. Excess water leads to flooding of the foundation and basement floor, washing out of the base, flooding of beds, waterlogging of the territory, etc. As a result, in spring, autumn and even summer, it is impossible to walk through the summer cottage without rubber boots.

In this article, we'll look at:

• How to arrange water drainage on the site.
• How to make a budget storm sewer with your own hands.
• Drainage device. How to make inexpensive drainage and drain a wetland.

What kind of water interferes with the life of the developer and the suburban homeowner

About the types of surface and ground water, as well as drainage and storm sewer systems, you can write a separate book. Therefore, we will leave a detailed enumeration of the types and causes of groundwater occurrence outside the scope of this article, and concentrate on practice. But without the minimum theoretical knowledge, to take up the independent arrangement of drainage and storm sewers is to throw money away.

The point is that even improperly made drainage system functions for the first few years. Then, due to clogging (silting) of a pipe wrapped with geotextile, which was placed in clay, loamy, etc. soil, drainage stops working. And the money for the arrangement of drainage has already been spent and, most importantly, the construction of the drainage is associated with a large amount of excavation work with the involvement of equipment.

Therefore, simply digging and shifting a drainage pipe 3-5 years after its laying is difficult and expensive. The site has already been inhabited, landscape design has been made, a blind area has been equipped, a gazebo, a bathhouse, etc. have been installed.

We'll have to puzzle over how to redo the drainage so as not to turn the entire site around.

From here - drainage construction should always be based on geological survey data(which will help to find a water-resistant layer in the form of clay at a depth of 1.5-2 m), hydrogeological surveys and clear knowledge of what kind of water leads to flooding of the house or swamping of the site.

Surface waters are seasonal in nature, associated with a period of snowmelt and an abundance of rain. Groundwater is divided into three main groups:

• capillary water.
• Ground water.
• Verkhovodka.

Moreover, surface water, if it is not diverted in time, when infiltrated (absorbed) into the ground, turns into underground water.

The volume of surface water usually exceeds the volume of groundwater.

Conclusion: surface runoff must be diverted by storm (rain) sewage, rather than trying to do surface drainage!

Storm sewage is a system consisting of trays, pipes or ditches dug in the ground, leading water from drains outside the site + competent organization of the relief in the backyard. This will avoid stagnant zones on the site (lenses, pools), where water will accumulate, which simply has nowhere to go, and further waterlogging.

The main mistakes that are made with an independent drainage device:

• Non-observance of the correct slope of the laid drainage pipes. If we take the average, then the slope is maintained in the range from 0.005 to 0.007, i.e. 5-7 mm per 1 running meter of drainage pipe.

• Using a drainage pipe in a geotextile wrap on the "wrong" ground. To avoid siltation, a pipe in geotextile is used on soils consisting of clean medium- and coarse-grained sands.

• The use of cheaper limestone rubble instead of granite, which is washed away with water over time.
• Savings on high-quality geotextiles, which must have certain hydraulic properties that affect the quality of drainage. This is an effective pore size of 175 microns, i.e. 0.175 mm, as well as the transverse Kf, which should be at least 300 m / day (with a single pressure gradient).

Inexpensive do-it-yourself storm sewer

The first thing that comes to mind in order to equip a budget option for storm sewers on the site is to lay special trays.

Trays can be made of concrete or plastic, but the price of them "bites". This forces users of our portal to look for cheaper options for arranging storm sewers and drainage systems from the site.

Denis1235 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I need to make an inexpensive storm drain, about 48 m long, along the edge of the fence, to drain meltwater that comes from a neighbor. Water must be diverted to a ditch. I thought about how to make a water outlet. At first it occurred to me to buy and install special trays, but then they will leave “extra” gratings, and I don’t need special aesthetics for storm water. I decided to buy asbestos-cement pipes and cut them along with a grinder, thereby getting a homemade tray.

Despite the budgetary nature of this idea, the user was not attracted by the need to saw asbestos-cement pipes on their own. The second option is the opportunity to buy gutters (plastic or metal) and lay them on a prepared base in a concrete layer of about 100 mm.

Portal users responded Denis1235 from this idea in favor of the first option, which is more durable.

Hooked on the idea of ​​​​an inexpensive storm drain, but not wanting to get involved with cutting pipes on their own, Denis1235 I found a plant that produces asbestos-cement pipes, where they will immediately be sawn into pieces 2 m long (so that a 4-meter one does not crack during transportation) and ready-made trays will be brought to the site. It remains only to develop a scheme for laying trays.

The result is the following pie:

• Soil base in the form of a bed.
• A layer of sand or ASG about 5 cm thick.
• Concrete about 7 cm.
• Tray from asbestos-cement pipe.

When installing such a storm drain, do not forget to lay a metal mesh (for reinforcement) at the joints and leave a deformation gap (3-5 mm) between the trays.

Denis1235

As a result, I made a budget shower at the dacha. It took: 2 days to dig a trench, two more days to concrete and install the track. I spent 10 thousand rubles on trays.

Practice has shown that the track "overwintered" perfectly, did not crack and intercepts water from a neighbor, leaving the site dry. Also of interest is the option of rain (storm) sewage of the portal user with the nickname yuri_by.

yury_by Member of FORUMHOUSE

Because the crisis does not think to end, then I thought about how to arrange a storm sewer to remove rainwater from the house. I want to solve the problem, and save money, and do everything efficiently.

After thinking, the user decided to make a storm drain for water drainage based on flexible double-walled corrugated pipes (they cost 2 times cheaper than "red" sewer pipes), which are used for laying power cables underground. But, because the depth of the drainage route is planned to be only 200-300 mm with a pipe diameter of 110 mm, yuri_by I was afraid that the corrugated pipe could break in winter if water gets between the two layers.

Eventually yuri_by I decided to take a budget "gray" pipe, which is used in the arrangement of internal sewage. Although he had fears that the pipes, which do not have such rigidity as the "red ones", will break in the ground, practice has shown that nothing happened to them.

yuri_by

If you step on the "gray" pipe, it turns into an oval, but there are no significant loads in the place where I buried it. Only the lawn is laid and there are pedestrian loads. Having laid the pipe in a trench and sprinkled it with soil, I made sure that they keep their shape, and the storm drain works.

The user liked the option of installing an inexpensive storm drain based on “gray” sewer pipes so much that he decided to repeat it. All the nuances of the process are clearly demonstrated by the following photos.

Digging a hole to collect water.

Level the base.

We install a concrete ring.

The next stage is to fill the bottom of the well with gravel of fraction 5-20.

We cast a homemade well cover from concrete.

Paint the manhole cover.

We make a tie-in into the well of a drainage plastic "gray" sewer pipe, maintaining a slope of the route of 1 cm per 1 running meter.

We spill the pipe with a mixture of sand and water so that there are no voids between the walls of the trench and the pipe.

To prevent the pipe from floating up, it can be pressed with a brick or board.

We put the cover, mount the hatch and fill everything with soil.

This completes the production of the budget shower.

Construction of inexpensive drainage and drainage of the wetland

Not everyone gets the “right” sites. In SNT or in new cuts, the land can be very swampy, or the developer has a peat bog. To build a normal house for permanent residence on such land, and not an easy summer cottage, is both difficult and expensive. There are two ways out of this situation - to sell / exchange the site or to drain and bring the site in order.

In order not to engage in various costly alterations in the future, users of our portal offer budget options for drainage and drainage of the territory based on car tires. This option allows you to save the family budget.

Yuri Podymakhin FORUMHOUSE member

Peat soil is characterized by a high level of groundwater. In my area, the water is almost flush with the surface, and after the rain does not go into the ground. To divert the top water, it must be thrown out of the site. I did not spend money on buying special pipes for drainage, but made drainage from car tires.

The system is mounted as follows - a ditch is dug, tires are laid in it, tires are covered with polyethylene on top so that the earth does not fall inside from above. Polyethylene can also be additionally pressed with "unnecessary" pieces of slate in the household. This will increase the overall rigidity of the structure. Water enters the "cover" pipeline and is then discharged outside the site.

But there are also more “heavy” places where much more needs to be done.

Seryoga567 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I have a plot in SNT, with a total area of ​​8 acres. There is a building on the site that I plan to complete and expand. The place is very low. Because drainage grooves for drainage in SNT are in a deplorable state, where they are buried, littered or clogged, then the water does not go anywhere. The GWL is so high that you can draw water from the well with a bucket, holding it by the handle. In the spring, the water in the country house stands for a long time, the site actually turns into a swamp and, if it dries out, it is only in the very heat in summer. No one wants to put the drainage ditches in order, so everyone swims. Therefore, I decided that it was useless to fight with the neighbors. It is necessary to raise your site and find a way to put all the "unnecessary" water from the site.

Protecting the soil and building from water erosion is a paramount task both in the design and in the arrangement of the site. The issue of water drainage is especially relevant for areas located in lowlands, near water bodies, in regions with high humidity, a large amount of precipitation. The problem is solved by installing drainage, for which drainage pipes are often used to drain groundwater. Let's try to figure out when drainage for groundwater is needed, and what materials are best used in different situations.

Installation of drainage by a contractor before building a house - an ideal solution for protecting the soil and building

Preliminary calculations of the drainage system

Complicated calculations and soil research are carried out when planning serious and important buildings, engineering structures, roads, bridges and tunnels, residential areas.

At the level of the owner of a summer cottage, a small country house, a garage, outbuildings, complex calculations are not required, since they are quite expensive and incomprehensible in the practical household use of the land.

Owners of summer cottages do not need to understand complex calculations that are already included in the cost of turnkey work

The design of a garden, vegetable garden and even a residential building is carried out on the basis of general data on the approximate level of groundwater, the proximity of a reservoir, information about the depth of a well or well, spring floods and other information.

At the same time, almost all owners of private houses, dachas and land plots faced the problem of drainage, water drainage and other issues of land reclamation and water use, which requires the installation of a drainage system to drain groundwater.

Despite the seeming simplicity of the work, it is difficult to figure out on your own which device of the drainage system for draining groundwater will be optimal in a particular case, and what materials: filters, pipes to drain water from the site, it is difficult to use. Errors at this stage lead to the need to completely redo the drainage, which entails not only additional costs, but also the need to re-design and arrange the site.

It is much easier and more economical to turn to professionals who can carry out the necessary calculations and make a turnkey drainage system.

The main signs by which it is possible to determine the need for drainage work

Obvious signs of the need for drainage

You can’t do without drainage on the site if:

Water-loving plants predominate in the garden and garden, sow thistle appeared, the earth is soft and wet all year round, trees grow poorly, some die, moss appeared on the soil and trees in the garden. All these are signs of excessive soil moisture - drainage is required.

High humidity in the basement or basement, condensation on the walls of the basement, the appearance of microcracks on the basement of the building, the occurrence of distortions in door and window openings, a feeling of dampness and mold in the room. The building needs to be saved - without drainage work, the foundation and the house will be destroyed.

Even after a little precipitation, puddles remain for a long time, the blind areas crack and move away from the basement, sidewalks and road surfaces sag - at least surface water must be drained.

Significant advantages of arranging a drainage system

Types of drainage

Drainage systems for the removal of groundwater can be divided into two main types: open and closed:

Open surface drainage It consists of ordinary ditches with a slope, directed to natural water collectors or to drainage wells.

To closed drainage systems include ditches filled with a layer of crushed stone or sand, or with trays installed in them or perforated pipes for draining groundwater, covered with soil from above.

Arrangement of a closed drainage system

The main thing is the calculation and arrangement of slopes

The main sign of a properly arranged drainage system is the ability of water to run down pipes by gravity without the use of pumps.

This provides a precisely measured angle of inclination to the drainage well or spillway. One degree of inclination in practice means that after a distance of one hundred meters, the drainage pipe will plunge into the ground by one meter (on a flat area). There is no need to create a fast current by increasing the angle of inclination - a slope of about two degrees is enough to complete the task of draining water.

In practice, no one manages to dig a flat drainage ditch and with a perfect slope. Adding sand and gravel to the bottom of the trench allows you to accurately level marks and slopes.

About pipes

Today, almost no one uses asbestos-cement and ceramic pipes in drainage work to drain water under the road or on the site. Their quality and price are good, but the installation costs are not comparable with modern lightweight and easy-to-use materials.

Modern materials for drainage systems are light and comfortable

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer installation and design services for water supply and sewerage. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Classification by type of material

Polyethylene. The most common material for the manufacture of drainage pipes. Most often it is sold in a corrugated form with a length in a bay of up to 50 m. It is not sufficiently heat-resistant, but this property is not considered decisive for pipe drainage. Today the market offers another original solution - perforated polymeric drainage materials of unmeasured length without joints and joints up to 100 m.

The length of polyethylene products can reach 100 m

Polypropylene. It is heat-resistant, durable, the price is higher than analogues from other materials, it is rarely used in drainage.

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC). It is characterized by high resistance to aggressive chemicals, high strength, heat resistance. PVC pipes are completed with fittings made of the same material. Products with a diameter of 110-200 mm are most in demand, they are made in lengths of 6 and 12 m. A characteristic feature: easy trimming of the desired length with an ordinary hand-held hacksaw.

About perforation

Drainage pipes for draining groundwater must have holes or slots, they are called perforations. They are designed to allow water to enter the drainage system. Round holes have a diameter of 1.5 to 5 mm. If necessary, holes 5 mm wide are cut, their length is not regulated.

The number of holes and their location do not have standard norms, but the slots in the corrugation should be located on the lower wave. Often, manufacturers make holes only on one side of the pipe - when laying, you need to pay attention that they are on top.

Perforation can be made in the form of holes or slots

About the diameter of the drainage pipes

Few private developers have information about the depth and thickness of the groundwater layer or operate with figures for average annual precipitation at the drainage site.

Therefore, you need to be guided by the average statistical norms:

the diameter of the main drainage should be in the range from 160 to 200 mm;

drainage pipes for the removal of groundwater for the installation of secondary branches of the system must be at least 110 mm.

Multilayer pipes

The need for materials of special strength with a variety of design solutions and features arose with the demand for technologies for deep-seated drainage systems with heavy loads on the surface layer, in particular, under highways.

Multi-layer products withstand enormous loads

Several layers in the construction of the pipe give it the necessary indicators of strength and durability. The top layer is almost always corrugated - it is he who increases the strength characteristics of the drainage pipe.

The pipes are marked with the abbreviation SN, the digital index after it means the maximum possible depth of the drainage pipe under the road in meters. Marking SN16 means a multilayer pipe with an allowable immersion depth of 16 meters - this is the maximum design depth for drains.

Single-layer pipes are common in the construction of small local drainage systems for personal households and household plots. They can be smooth, which is typical for PVC products, or corrugated, most often made of polyethylene.

Advantages of corrugated pipes for installation

Drain pipe corrugations are often the determining factor when choosing drainage pipes.

Corrugated products allow you to solve many issues in the arrangement of the drainage system

When using them:

There is no need for additional connection elements: bends, elbows. The number of butt joints, and hence the associated leaks, is significantly reduced.

It allows, when preparing trenches, to simplify the requirements for the geometry of the drainage scheme, and, consequently, to facilitate and reduce the cost of the installation process.

Video description

Tips on how to choose drainage pipes can be found in the video:

cost of drainage pipes

The price of drainage pipes depends on many factors:

material

product diameter;

number of layers;

availability of geotextiles.

Approximate prices for popular types of pipes are presented in the table.

Drainage filters

The main problem of drainage systems is possible silting. Deposits of soil particles that have penetrated the pipes can create plugs and completely stop the functioning of the drainage system. Properly performed installation allows the drainage system to work smoothly for decades at no additional cost and with a small amount of preventive maintenance.

The type of filter layer largely depends on the soil of the drained area.

Most often, several types of filtration are used.

The filter can be:

crushed stone, gravel, brick and concrete battle;

fabric materials (for example, geotextiles);

membranes made of polymeric and natural materials.

About geotextile

A non-woven material that performs the most important function of a fine filter in drainage systems. It is able to hold even the smallest particles of sand. Today you can buy pipes already wrapped with geotextiles - they can be laid immediately on any base, without fear of traffic jams.

Finished products may have a geotextile coating

You can apply geotextiles without wrapping them directly around the pipes. The material is laid on a sand cushion, then crushed stone is poured, a pipe is laid, then again a layer of crushed stone and then another layer of geotextile.

When additional filters are not needed

Sandy soil itself is filtering. It is only necessary to wrap the drainage pipes with geotextile, protecting them from the ingress of the smallest grains of sand, and also make additional backfilling with crushed stone.

For crushed stone soil, the best solution would be to use rigid perforated pipes plus additional gravel or crushed stone.

In clayey soils, sometimes it is enough to lay pipes without a filtering fabric layer - crushed stone backfill or a coconut filter is enough.

For an ideal drainage system made once and for all, it is better to use all available filtration methods in combination

4 additions for practical application

When installing a drainage system, the following points should be considered:

The collection of water in the well should be at the lowest elevation of the site, it is desirable to equip the collection well with a pump to pump out excess water.

Manholes at pipe connections are required

Wells are built with a diameter of 50 cm or more - with deep joints, the diameter of the well should be convenient for a person to work in it.

Docking of pipes does not have to be hermetically sealed. When the required fitting is not available, a simple tie-in of a pipe of a smaller diameter into a large one can be carried out - inaccuracies in the tie-in will play the role of additional perforation.

Video description

Common mistakes in the arrangement of the drainage system and the choice of materials are described in detail and shown in the video:

Conclusion

In order for the drainage system on the site to effectively perform its functions, it is necessary to take into account many factors in its arrangement, including the type and moisture of the soil, the depth and thickness of the groundwater layer, the type and size of the pipes required, and the geometry of the site. Therefore, the price of pipes for drainage when solving the issue of arranging a quality system is not always fundamental in the cost of complex work.

Water drainage from the house is a problem for almost every owner of a country house, which must be solved immediately, without debugging “for later”. During rains and downpours, water can break the stability of the house, destroying the foundation. Of course, this will not happen from one downpour, but if such incidents occur constantly, then the house can simply go underground, that is, “grow” into it. The foundation of the building will be washed away by sewage, the ground under the foundation will be soft and under the weight of the house the foundation will sink down.

And, for example, if the house has a basement? This problem in this case should be solved immediately, it cannot be postponed even for a short time. After all, if the basement is constantly flooded, then in a few years it will come into an unsatisfactory state and it will no longer be possible to use it for its intended purpose. Why? Because due to the constant dampness in the basement, molds may soon appear, which in turn are extremely harmful to the health of people and animals.

Also, groundwater can pose a danger to the site. If your house is located near a river, lake or even a swamp, then you can be sure that there are those on the site. The danger of groundwater lies in the fact that they lie in the depths of the earth. If water from the house during showers and rains will flow there, then there is a high probability of imbalance and stability of the house, which can subsequently lead to its collapse. It is because of this reason that it is so important to correctly drain rainwater from a residential building.

Water drainage from the roof: features

Drainage from the roof must be mandatory. For example, in winter, a huge amount of snow falls on the roof, which accumulates on it and can simply break through it. There is also another significant danger: during the daytime snow melting, icicles may form in the evening. They, in turn, can fall on someone's head. If you make drainage from the house of thawed snow and rainwater, then you can forever forget about the formation of icicles and the danger of them falling on someone's head.

How to make a diversion system yourself, that is the question. You can immediately answer that this is not a difficult process, you can handle it yourself. To do this, you need to buy gutters and downpipes in a building hypermarket or on the market, which will allow you to drain water from the roof. Roof gutters are the least expensive and easiest option. He is also the most popular. Installing gutters to drain water from the house is quite simple and do-it-yourself.

There are three types of gutters:

• semicircular,
• rectangular or square
• trapezoidal.

How do you decide which one is best for your building? You can rely only on your taste, and you should also take into account the design of the building. In terms of functionality, these gutters practically do not differ, we can say that they are the same in their properties and characteristics. Therefore, the choice falls entirely on your shoulders.

You can only help with the choice of color: you should not buy light gutters, as in winter the snow on them will melt more slowly than if they were darker. This is due to the fact that dark colors "attract" more solar energy to themselves. Light colors, on the contrary, reflect the energy of the sun, so the snow on them will melt more slowly. Also, many experts recommend installing storm gutters, which are larger, and therefore can withstand the loads during heavy rainfall.

There is nothing complicated in installing the gutters, you just need to follow the instructions from the attached instructions.

The drainage system for rain and melt water using gutters is as follows:

Water drains from the roof into an attached gutter, which travels down the gutter to a downpipe where it flows down to the ground. But the problem remains unresolved, water continues to flow directly under the foundation of the house. To bring the water drainage system from the house to mind, it is necessary to make an additional drainage system.

Drainage systems

What is a drainage system? What is it used for? What types does it have? In what cases should it be used?

In fact, the drainage system is the system for draining water from the house, only it drains water almost completely, which will have a good effect on the building and extend its life.

Types of drainage systems:

• Ground drainage (surface)
• Water disposal lines
• Drainage in certain places (point)
• Open drainage system
• closed drainage system
• Trench backfilled
• Deep drainage

When there is an urgent need to install a complex drainage system:

• If there are natural water bodies near the house.
• The house is on the bottom.
• On clay soils, as the water on such soils leaves rather slowly, especially after heavy rains.
• Your area receives a large amount of rainfall throughout the calendar year.
• Groundwater is close to the surface of the earth's crust.
• The presence of concrete or tiled paths on the site, as they do not allow water to pass through.
• The low foundation of the house, because the possibility of flooding increases many times.

The installation of a system that will ensure the drainage of rainwater with your own hands will help save money on further repairs to the building due to possible flooding.

Types of water drainage systems

Surface drainage

Surface drainage will allow the removal of storm water, it is also called a drain from showers. It is very simple to equip this type of drain that drains storm water. Such a system will help to cope exclusively with the removal of rain and melt water, and such a system will not be able to cope with groundwater. By itself, surface drainage is subdivided into two more types: linear and point.

Linear water drainage works as follows: special trenches are pulled out throughout the site, which merge into one common drainage well. Usually trenches are covered with gratings.

Point water drainage allows you to drain the input from different places of the site into a common well, while such a system is usually used simultaneously with a linear one. Spot drainage is usually installed in places where there is no need for a constant mandatory drainage of water. For example, in outbuildings or baths.

There is also a combined drainage, that is, both linear and point. It is most often used in summer cottages and in country houses just this type of drainage system.

Drainage systems in private areas will not affect the water supply, as they usually take water from deeper wells or boreholes.

Drainage systems: open and closed type

Open systems are a collection of trenches, channels and gutters that allow water to be diverted away from the house to a designated area, usually a well.

Closed drainage systems also represent a combination of various drains and channels, but they have a more aesthetic appearance, as they are covered with decorative gratings. The discharge channel in the form of a pipe is often buried underground and is not visible from above.

All experts in construction agree on one general plan when organizing drainage systems on a private site: “It is not so difficult to arrange a drainage system on your site in modern conditions. Before construction, it is advisable to take a site plan and mark all the channels and trenches on it, as well as determine the best place for the well, into which water will be discharged. The next important step should be the calculation of the necessary materials. You need to do this so that later you do not waste your time on unnecessary shopping trips. It is necessary to start work from the roof, and only then carry out surface discharge channels on the ground.

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A fairly important hydraulic operation is considered to be drainage in a summer cottage. The easiest way to improve the water balance of the soil should be mandatory, because the ratio of moisture in different periods of the year can change not only due to natural factors. Sometimes even a nearby construction site can upset the balance.

Uncomplicated system for draining water from the building

Soil drainage can be carried out using open trenches or specialized pipes placed in the ground. The first of them are simple in design, but do not look very aesthetically pleasing. In this regard, some developers create closed-type channels that do not violate the attractiveness of the landscape.

surface lines

Although surface collection systems are relatively simple, they effectively remove moisture from the site in the form of precipitation. Through special trays and depressions, water is directed to the central gutter or drain well. Among the advantages can be distinguished:

• high speed of construction;
• small costs;
• sufficient level of efficiency;
• ease of cleaning.

Helpful advice! If we are talking about how to make drainage on the site with your own hands without unnecessary financial investments, then first of all you should consider the option with an open channel system.

Closed drains

Depth line systems are ideal for both stormwater and groundwater in close proximity. Most often they are arranged using polymer pipes that are immersed in the ground for a certain distance.

In practice, two types of drainage with closed channels are well applicable:

• point (water is collected in one place);
• linear (moisture collection is provided throughout the pipeline through special holes).

Note! Within the same area, the presented species can be combined. For example, for the drainage system of a house, you can use a point collection, and for groundwater - a linear one.

Drainage at the dacha: the easiest way to device for specific conditions

Before you make a drainage system on the site, you must choose its type, based on operational features. It is worth considering the most optimal options for arranging water drainage systems, which are popular under certain conditions.

An example of site drainage with a high groundwater level

With a close occurrence of groundwater, a deep system of a linear type may be the best option. It will remove moisture from the entire site to a sewer, ravine or ditch located one level below. It is proposed to use perforated plastic pipes in the geotextile filter as the main elements.

One of the simplest methods of drainage in a summer cottage with groundwater located near the surface comes down to the following scheme:

• A trench breaks out to the distance of soil freezing. Its slope should be 2 cm per linear meter towards the liquid collection point. For leveling, a layer of sand is poured.
• Geotextiles are spread on the prepared bottom so that its edges overlap the walls of the pit by at least 1-2 m. A small layer of gravel is poured on top.
• Next, plastic pipes are laid, after which they are again covered with approximately the same layer of gravel. The ends of the geotextile roll up to form a protective barrier. The rest of the trench is covered with soil.

Note! Knowing how to properly drain around the site and on its territory with a close occurrence of groundwater, you can avoid serious problems associated with an excess of moisture.

Related article:

Do-it-yourself open drainage device on a site with clay soil

For land with clay soil, a system with an open channel arrangement is more suitable. With a closed piping system, water will not be able to seep through such soil and go to specialized septic tanks or other suitable places.

In places where water accumulates, ditches are dug with a depth of at least 50 cm. Their width should increase as they approach the place of reception. It is necessary to make the widest trench, which collects water from the ditches adjacent to it. To facilitate draining and protect the edges from collapse, the side walls are cut at an angle of 30 degrees.

Since the open view of the trenches spoils the appearance of the site, it is necessary to decorate them. It not only allows you to increase the aesthetic properties, but also to strengthen the side surfaces of open lines. In this regard, the operation of the system is significantly increased.

Stones of various sizes can be used as material for decorating pits. The largest of them should be laid on the bottom, and medium and small - on top. If there are good financial opportunities, the surface can be covered with marble chips, which will give the branch lines a respectable look.

If money is tight, then regular brushwood can be a good option for decoration. It is necessary to find dry branches of any wood species that grow nearby. They should be tied in bunches and laid on special stands installed at the bottom of the ditch.

The thickness of the bunches of brushwood should be no more than 30 cm. It is better to place the branches so that the larger ones lie in the center, and the smaller ones at the edges.

Related article:

Average prices for turnkey site drainage

Many companies offer professional drainage services, but they don't come cheap. During the work, a double-walled pipe with a geotextile filter will be used.

The main stages of the construction of a quality system