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Circumstances in life can change in a variety of ways and you may need to increase the space of your home. One of the significant advantages of a private building is that it is easy to make it bigger. Before expanding, it is important to familiarize yourself with how to properly build an extension to the house, even if it will be built by workers.

Various extensions to houses Source stroimsami.online

Projects of structures from various materials

An extension can have many options for shapes, design and technical capabilities. Not only the material of construction can differ. Each frame extension to a wooden house requires the implementation of certain rules and has its own characteristics. A certain type of project can have its pros and cons. That is why it is important to weigh everything carefully and decide which type of project is best suited.

In construction, the material plays a key role. The functionality and cost of the building depends on what raw materials will be chosen for construction. For example, you can live in a wooden frame building both in summer and in winter. If the material of the walls mostly consists of glass, then this type is reassigned only for the warm season. So, there are several types of materials:

• foam blocks,
• beam,
• brickwork,
• frame assembly.

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Source remoo.ru

Form and purpose of the extension

Buildings differ not only in the material chosen for construction, but also in the form of construction. Such structures are divided into the following types:

1. Additional room.
2. Veranda with open or closed type.
3. Enlarged porch with canopy.

Extra room

This project involves the construction of another additional room in which you can live all year round. Typically, such projects are made from raw materials that retain heat well and poorly transmit cold. Wood serves as an excellent heat insulator, and all rooms are made mainly of wooden beams. You can use foam blocks or bricks, but in this case it is important to insulate well. This type of project has a number of positive and negative qualities.

Source pol-master.com

1. You can significantly expand the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house.
2. Unlike a separate building, it is easy to conduct light and heating.
3. In this case, the construction of an extension to a wooden house will perfectly complement the existing interior and exterior without violating its integrity.
4. Even after the completion of the construction cycle, the premises can be easily converted to suit any needs (bathroom, storage room, kitchen or living room).

1. A good insulation and a strong foundation are required, which guarantees an increase in the total price of the structure.
2. The implementation of this project requires a lot of free space. This is a significant disadvantage for those who have a small area.

Closed veranda

The project in the form of an attached veranda has two main varieties. An extension to the house made of bricks and timber is fenced with four walls that protect against external factors. Closed verandas are rarely heated, they are often used seasonally. The traditional finishing material is glass. Such an extension fits perfectly into almost any design. The covered veranda will be a great place to relax in any weather.

Source ro.decorexpro.com

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of installing an extension to the house. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

1. Easy installation.
2. No insects or pests.
3. You can relax during rain or strong wind.
4. If you need an unusual extension to the house, projects can be easily found on the Internet.

1. If glass surfaces are used, then after each rain, water drips should be cleaned.
2. The meaning of the veranda for many is fresh air, but this is not indoors.

The frame extension attracts with its simplicity and functionality. Often such projects are carried out from a wooden beam. Similar verandas are used in tandem with wooden houses made of the same material. This option is much easier to implement than a gazebo. In addition, such extensions generally do not take up much space and require a minimum amount of raw materials. Such projects have gained great popularity due to their practicality and a lot of positive aspects.

Source houzz.com

1. Access to fresh air.
2. Savings on building materials.
3. Easy to hold light and internet.
4. Takes up little workspace.

1. Annoying insects.
2. It is impossible to be in snowy or rainy weather, with strong winds.

Porch with canopy

If you need a beautiful extension to a wooden house, porch projects are a great option. This building is mainly of a design nature. Usually the porch is performed as a decoration of the house. The old annex projects did not carry any useful functions. Now there are new options for the construction of the porch, which is characterized by good functionality. They are equipped with special armchairs or chairs and can be used as a small gazebo.

Source yandex.ru

1. Easy assembly design.
2. You don't need a strong foundation.
3. Noticeably decorates the facade of the built house.
4. Suitable for almost any house made of brick or wood.

1. Installed decorative elements are not protected from vandals.
2. No protection from bad weather.

Construction of a frame extension to the house

Any construction requires careful planning. An extension to a brick house is hard work, which is not complete without experience and skill. The same can be said about the implementation of a specific project for wooden structures. It does not matter which type was chosen, the principle of construction is the same. The entire construction cycle can be divided into several stages:

1. Foundation arrangement.
2. Walling.
3. Roof and ceiling installation.

Foundation arrangement

The basis of any building is the foundation, which means that it must be made of quality materials. In the case of using unsuitable raw materials with low performance, the extension to the house from the frame will be damaged. If the foundation begins to collapse, then you may have to dismantle the walls and roof, which threatens with serious monetary costs. In addition to the acquisition of high-quality materials, it is necessary to strictly observe the technological process.

Source nl.decorexpro.com

Any laying of a new foundation to the old foundation requires accurate calculations. Ideally, lay the foundation for two structures at once, but this happens very rarely. For docking, special reinforcement is used, which allows you to catch on to the base of the house. When pouring, it is important to know and consider two factors:

1. composition identity.
2. Even depth.

Concrete must completely repeat the composition and structure. This will ensure a uniform structure and a stronger connection. Uniform depth, allows the foundation to sag at the same level. If this is not taken into account, cracks will go along the foundation, and the structure of the house will be severely damaged.

Walling

After the foundation is formed, you need to proceed to the next stage - the construction of the walls. There is an unspoken rule - to use material identical to the main building. So, if an extension is being made to a panel house, you need to use shield walls, if the house is brick, use bricks, etc. But what if there is no similar material? You can use an additional layer of the same lining. Completely finishing the house is a costly business, but the problem of unification will be solved.

It is important to remember that if you need an extension to an old wooden house, you will have to choose projects in the general style. It is necessary to use the material from which the house is made. The closer the similarity, the more organic the building will look.

Source: remontik.org

At the time of planning, you need to understand whether the extension will have its own fourth wall? If it is in the project, then what is the gap between the two buildings? If an additional room is well heated and it is planned to live in it all year round, then an additional partition is meaningless. In a poorly heated room, an air cushion will protect the house from the cold.

A flat floor is the basis of a comfortable life. In order not to suffer later, it is important to make a smooth and even rough base for the flooring. When pouring and screeding, it is important to use modern equipment, such as a laser level. It is important to know that without proper experience in construction and expensive equipment, it is impossible to do a perfect job. A "crooked" draft floor will give a complication when building a warm floor. If you lay parquet on a low-quality coating, then creaking and subsidence are a guaranteed result.

Source master-walls.ru

Roof and ceiling installation

As with walls, the roofing of the roof should be an extension of the main house. Due attention should be paid to beams and ceilings. They must comply with all modern standards and fire safety regulations. If the selected project does not imply permanent residence, then you can do without insulation. The same applies to the ceiling. For example, in a veranda or porch, you can do without a ceiling. It all depends on the plan of the extension and the project of the main building.

Video description

If certain points are not clear, you can watch a video that will explain how to build an extension to a house from a frame:

Conclusion

When planning the construction of additional square meters, it is worth taking into account that this is a complex technological process. If you take on a construction site with your own hands, the risk of making a mistake is increased. To avoid unnecessary expenses, it is better to seek help from professionals who know their business. Having in their arsenal a sufficient amount of experience and professional expensive equipment, they will perform high-quality work in the shortest possible time. As a result, the owner is waiting for high-quality work without overpayments, time-consuming and unnecessary nerves.

Reading time ≈ 4 minutes

A private house needs to be expanded over time - it becomes necessary to expand the kitchen, add a veranda or arrange an additional room. Therefore, the owner of the house has a question - how to make an extension to the house with your own hands? Below are the stages of construction using frame technology.

Benefits of frame technology

The frame extension to the house has important advantages:

• low cost and a minimum amount of building materials;
• work is done quickly;
• there is no need for a massive foundation.

Schemes and drawings of the extension project are clear to any novice builder. The technology is similar to the assembly of the designer, but in the end you get a comfortable and cozy additional room.

Preparatory work

The construction of an extension to the house begins with preparatory measures. Carefully inspect the construction site, remove all debris and vegetation from it, mark the territory and stock up on the following materials and tools:

• metal pipes for supports;
• components for concrete mix - sand, cement, gravel;
• self-tapping screws, nails, metal corner for fastening;
• boards for logs 5 cm thick and 15 cm wide;
• perfectly processed boards for finishing flooring;
• natural wooden lining for walls;
• bar 50 mm;
• concrete mixer;
• hammer, screwdriver, building level, rope and circular saw;
• block house under a log for sheathing an extension from the outside;
• metal tile for the roof.

Be sure to provide a drainage system under the extension. To do this, tamp the ground under the veranda and make a slope in this place for water to drain. Below is a step-by-step instruction for the construction of an extension.

Step-by-step instructions for building an extension to the house

1. Installation of supports. Nail a wooden board at least 5 cm wide to the wall of the house, which will become a support. Along the edges of the marked area for construction, install wooden structures - "cast-offs". They need to be installed a little further than the marked area. Pull a strong rope over them. Check the correct dimensions of the markup so that everything is at right angles.

2. Dig a trench across the width of the foundation with a depth of one meter. Prepare a cement mixture of sand, gravel and cement with the addition of water. Make a wooden formwork. Start installing support pillars, make the distance between the pillars no more than 1.5 m. At the bottom of the trench, pour a pillow of gravel about 10 cm thick. Cut the pipes in advance and install them vertically in the pit, fixing them with boards. Next, fill the gaps between the supporting posts and the walls of the trench with the prepared solution. To prevent the vertical position of the pipe in the pit from being disturbed, fix the supports with spacers and wait three days for the mortar to harden. After it hardens, the formwork can be removed.

3. Creating a floor. At the next stage of creating an extension to a wooden house, take the log boards with your own hands. Two boards are mounted to the supports with metal mounting corners at the end of the extension - place the rest between them. When installing the lag, do not forget to check their horizontal location with a level. The transverse lags are mounted using 120 mm nails and grooves to the longitudinal part of the extension foundation.

4. Installation of the base for walls and roofs. Work begins with screwing the bars to the base of the floor using dowels and a perforator. The side bars are nailed to the walls. You can get acquainted with the video and photo of this work in our article. Structural stability is ensured by diagonal bars laid at the outer corners. Don't forget to mark the door and window opening. The entire structure is reinforced with transverse insertion jumpers. Outside, the base of the extension is sheathed with a block house. It is advisable to lay a layer of glassine on the boards of the crate before sheathing, it will protect the building from moisture.

5. Arrangement of the roof. After installing windows and doors, the roof is covered with metal tiles. Cover the place where the roof adjoins the building with a galvanized iron apron.

6. Internal work. An extension to the house with their own hands will soon be built, only internal work remains. The walls and ceiling are sheathed with natural wooden clapboard. Before that, they can be insulated with penofol. To create a floor, you first need to make a rough floor. A draft bar is laid on the sides of the floor lags, edged boards are laid on it. They put a heater in the form of mineral wool, and then proceed to the installation of the final floor.

We hope that our instructions helped you learn how to build an extension to your house. If you carefully study the sequence of work and properly prepare building materials and tools, as well as be patient, you can easily make a beautiful veranda yourself.

Video of building an extension to the house with your own hands

No matter how large your private house is, sometimes you need to add one more room to it. The purpose of the new room can be different: inside they equip a bedroom, a pantry, a gym, a veranda, a dining room, even a bathhouse or a garage. The best option in this case is an extension to the house from the frame. The structure is placed on the foundation, a kind of frame “skeleton” is made, on which the walls of OSB-plates, insulation and waterproofing are “put on”. The extension to the house is equipped with a floor and a separate roof, sometimes windows and always a door.

Before starting the construction of a frame extension to the house, decide on its location. On the north or east side, it is advisable to place a pantry or utility room, on the south or west - a bedroom or living room (then there will be a lot of light in the room, during the day the sun will warm the frame extension, so you will save on heating).

If the extension will have a bedroom or living room, then make it on the south side - so you can save a little on heating

Now sketch out a house plan with a new room on a piece of paper, indicate the exact dimensions of the building and the materials that will be used in the construction.

This plan must be submitted to the technical inventory bureau of your locality. Of course, not all homeowners run to the BTI in order to organize a frame extension. But in vain! If checked, the illegal building will most likely be ordered to be demolished. Do you need such problems?

As practice shows, BTI specialists will not create obstacles and will quickly approve the project (maximum within 10 working days).

Permission from the BTI for an extension to the house will be issued within 10 days. Provided that the application meets all the established requirements, and the construction meets the technical standards

Tools and materials for creating a frame extension to the house

Permission from BTI received. Now you need to prepare tools and materials for construction. You will need:

• cement mortar;
• wooden boards;
• sand;
• small pebbles;
• OSB boards;
• insulation;
• waterproofing;
• putty;
• paint for OSB-plates;
• roofing material;
• wooden or metal door (at the request of the owner);
• a window in a plastic or wooden frame (if necessary);
• linoleum, ceramic tiles or laminate flooring;
• perforator;
• construction mixer;
• rollers and brushes;
• nails and screws;
• mounting foam;
• construction stapler;
• shovel;
• metal pipes with a diameter of 15-20 cm, a length of 2.7-3 m.

Cement mortar is sold in packages of 25 kilograms each. Terms of use are indicated on the product packaging. Price - 700 to 2 thousand rubles, some of the best manufacturers are Silka, Maxsil, Mapey.

The base of the extension must be strong and stable, so choose quality cement for the foundation, not a cheap mixture

Wooden boards will be needed first to create the foundation formwork. Then they can be covered with a cement-filled floor to insulate and soften it. For such purposes, spruce, pine, oak are best suited. The thickness of the board is at least 5 millimeters. Choose the length depending on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe frame extension to the house.

Choose OSB with a thickness of at least 7 millimeters with dimensions of 100 × 100 centimeters. The plate itself should be smooth and uniform. This indicates the high quality of the product.

As a heater, you can use mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. The first option is cheap, but the material quickly becomes unusable. Expanded polystyrene has a long service life (up to 20 years). It is sold in the form of plates, the dimensions of one are 200 × 100 centimeters.

Choose products from 10 millimeters thick from the companies: Penoplex, Extrol, TechnoNikol.

Expanded polystyrene for warming an extension to the house is preferable to mineral wool. It does not absorb liquid, is not afraid of temperature changes

Waterproofing is a must. As such, you can use a polymer roll material. Thickness - at least 5 millimeters.

The price per square meter is about 500 rubles. Among firms, users recommend giving preference to the following: Bolars, Penetron, Polylen, Zubr.

Putty and paint are needed for exterior and interior decoration. You can learn more about the choice of paint.

On the roof you can put a metal tile. It is a durable and weather-resistant material that will last a long time, besides, it looks stylish and is inexpensive.

For a square meter you will pay 200-400 rubles. The thickness of the tile must be at least 5 millimeters.

Important: the easiest way is to create a frame extension to the house using OSB. Such a room will be warm and durable if it is properly insulated. Of course, you can build walls from bricks, foam blocks or wooden beams. But it is much more expensive and energy-intensive.

The drawings below will help determine the type of room:

With the help of such a drawing, you can create a simple extension to the house with a pitched roof. Use your own sizes

Such a drawing of an extension to the house will help to simply and quickly build an additional room or, for example, a pantry.

By stages: stages of building construction

The process of erecting a frame extension to a wooden house can be divided into several stages:

• building a foundation;
• floor filling;
• erection of a frame for an extension;
• wall production;
• roof laying;
• installation of windows, doors;
• exterior finish;
• interior decoration.

Work must be carried out consistently, following the instructions and safety precautions. For some "activities" (installing windows, laying the roof), it is advisable to involve an assistant.

Strong foundation: pour the foundation

To create a frame extension to the house, it is necessary to fill in the strip foundation. But if the site has a high level of groundwater, then it is more correct to make a pile or columnar foundation.

The instructions for erecting a strip foundation are as follows:

1. Mark up and dig a trench 30 centimeters deep and 20 cm wide. The result should be a rectangle or square.
2. Fill the trench first with sand, then with stones exactly half for strength.
3. Insert metal pipes at the corners of the trench. They will serve as the basis for the future frame.
4. Build the formwork for the foundation from the boards and fill the trench with cement mortar, prepared strictly according to the instructions.
5. Leave the design for 24 hours until completely dry.
6. Then fill the floor with cement mortar. It will dry completely in a day or two, depending on weather conditions. The warmer it is outside, the faster the cement hardens.

You will learn how to make a strip foundation from the video.

If you need a column or pile foundation, watch the following videos. They will talk about the rules for the construction of such foundations.

Strong "skeleton": we put the frame

The future building already has iron pipes in the corners. Between them, horizontally from the floor to the end of the pipe, other metal pipes are welded. The distance between parallel parts is at least 70 centimeters. You can “connect” the corner iron parts to each other using wooden boards. They will also serve as a frame.

Important: if the distance between the corner tubes is more than 1 meter, then in the middle you can put another vertical pipe or board to give the frame strength and reliability.

How to make a frame for an extension to the house, see the video.

Construction "sandwich": building walls

Now, in the process of building an extension from a frame to a wooden house, the most difficult and interesting thing begins with your own hands: the construction of walls. One camp is already there - it is part of the house. There are three more to do:

• attach the OSB to the frame with nails. Between them there should not be large gaps of more than 3 millimeters.
• On the inside of the OSB-plate, fix the waterproofing with a construction stapler. The material should cover the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls - from top to bottom.
• Attach the insulation to the waterproofing with mounting foam. The work is not difficult. It is quite possible to deal with it alone. Do not apply too thick a layer of foam and press the insulation board firmly against the OSB wall.
• Place OSB boards on the insulation. Attach them with screws.
• Attach waterproofing to the existing wall of the house, and OSB on top.
• If there are gaps between the plates themselves or the floor, fill them with mounting foam.

Builders call this construction a “sandwich”. It is built quickly and simply, but practical in operation, reliable and durable.

If you need to install windows and doors, consider them before you start installing the walls. In OSB-plates, it will be necessary to pre-cut holes of the desired size.

You will learn more about the plates themselves from the video:

Serious protection: without a roof - nothing

The roof for a frame extension to the house can be made shed or. In any case, its creation involves the following steps:

1. We build a base from wooden boards.
2. We put a heater on top.
3. We put waterproofing on the insulation.
4. From above we fasten the metal tile with an overlap. In this case, moisture from precipitation will not accumulate under the tiles.

The shed roof of the extension to the house, as it were, continues the existing roof. It's pretty easy to build. It is enough to put wooden slats of the desired length on the main roof

To be beautiful: interior and exterior decoration

The construction of the frame extension to the house is not completed until the interior and exterior decoration has been completed.

The best option for OSB boards is painting.

First prepare the surface:

• sanding is performed;
• antiseptics are applied (good quality for "Tixo", "Drevolak");
• primer treatment ("Body", "Tex").

Then the board is painted. Use alkyd, oil, water-based, acrylic, latex paints. For external and internal work, different products are used. Information on which surfaces a particular dye can be used is indicated on the packaging.

You can find out more about painting OSB.

Interior finishing also includes flooring. Waterproofing is placed on the cement screed, then insulation and wooden boards (this step can be skipped if you put laminate, linoleum or ceramic tiles on the insulation).

What's next?

It would seem that the frame extension to the house is ready. But putting it into operation is not yet possible - first you need to conduct electrical wiring in the room, install heating radiators and connect them to the common heating system of a private house.

You will learn how to wire.

Read about the heating system.

To make it cozy in the extension to the house at any time of the year, run the wiring inside, install heating radiators

Finally

In order for the frame extension to the house to be strong and safe, strictly follow the basic rules when building private houses in general and creating extensions in particular. Do not forget about the basic safety requirements at the construction site. Protect your hands and eyes, work in special clothing and sturdy shoes.

The easiest option for creating an extension from a frame for a house is OSB-plate. It is quite light, but fully copes with its "professional duties".

There is an opinion that using OSB is unsafe for health - products are impregnated with a mixture of phenol for strength. However, when painting and priming, phenol is stopped and not released, so OSB does not harm health.

A country house for lovers of country life is not a temporary hut, not just a place to sleep. Many summer residents live in it for months, and sometimes it becomes a permanent place of residence. But what if the house is small and there is a catastrophic lack of space in it? Continue to huddle in cramped quarters or build a new house - more? For those to whom both proposed options are not suitable, there is an excellent way out of this situation - to attach an additional room to an existing house.

So, most often the owner of the cottage decides to build an extension if:

• There is a need for new premises
• Initially, there was not enough money to build the most complete structure

The main advantage of any extension to a country house is the acquisition of additional usable space. An important nuance is the possibility of getting into the attached premises without leaving the main building. This is especially true in winter or in inclement weather, when the owner does not have to dress according to the season to get into the right room.

By the way, construction costs can be significantly reduced if you use the practical tips outlined in this article:.

Types of extensions

• Lightweight (summer) options
• Capital buildings

The name of the first type speaks for itself. That is, this is a room that can fully function at certain times of the year. Typically, such premises are built from lightweight versions of building materials, without a heating system.

The capital extension is actually a continuation of the main house, so its construction will require the following construction processes:

• Walling
• Roof installation

Not the most difficult job, it is quite possible to cope with it. The main thing is to know how to do it right. Many summer residents, without understanding the theory, immediately go to practice and, as a rule, make a number of serious mistakes that can lead to serious trouble in the future.

To prevent this from happening, let's look at the correct technology for building a capital extension, which implies the presence of a full-fledged foundation, stone walls and a pitched roof.

The foundation for a capital extension should be poured taking into account the construction of a real, albeit small, building on it. To do this, we need to do the following:

1. Marking is being done at the site of the proposed construction of an extension.
2. Trenches are dug under the foundation, or a formwork is set up (a frame, usually made of wood, into which the solution is poured). For a one-story building, a tape type concrete cushion 30-40 cm wide and up to half a meter deep is quite suitable.

The next step is laying the frame from the reinforcement.
The design can be ordered or made independently. For the second option, you can use a suitable metal, which is traditionally full of thrifty owners in summer cottages. You can fasten all the elements into a single whole using welding or strong wire.

The last stage of the preparatory work is to attach the laid metal frame to the main foundation of the house. This will require:

• Drill a few holes in the concrete base of the building.
• Drive strong reinforcement into them and fasten it by welding with the previously laid frame.

What should be the concrete for pouring the foundation

Concrete for the foundation can also be ordered, but you can also make it on your own. To prepare a good concrete mix, you will need to mix the ingredients in a certain proportion, for example:

• 1 share of cement (say, 10 kg)
• 3 shares of sand
• 4 or 5 shares of crushed stone or gravel

Water is added on the basis that the weight of the liquid in the prepared mixture is approximately half the weight of all other ingredients. That is, if we take our approximate proportions, then about 40 liters of water should be added.

The finished concrete must be fluid enough to fill any voids, but should not be made too liquid, as this will cause the liquid to sink down while the mixture dries, which will significantly impair the performance of the extension base.

The poured foundation needs to be allowed to settle. It is recommended to periodically water it with water if small cracks begin to appear on the surface.

More details about the types of foundation, the intricacies of choice and device are described in the article:

Construction of extension walls

Before you start laying walls, you must definitely take care of their insulation. To do this, it is enough to roll out the roofing material along the plane of the foundation. The purpose of this step is to prevent moisture from spreading upwards - from the ground to the roof.

The process of erecting the walls of an extension from various types of stone is quite simple technologically:

• The solution is kneaded (in proportion - 1 share of cement to 3 shares of sand, plus water is added in the amount necessary to achieve the consistency of thick sour cream)
• The first stone is laid on a layer of mortar and tapped down a little with a trowel (trowel), hammer or ax
• The second stone is installed in the same way next to the first, only a solution is added between them. Tapping occurs from top to bottom and from the end, towards the first laid brick (stone)

Thus, the first row is expelled. In order to somewhat facilitate your work, it is recommended to initially place the stones in the corners of the future extension, pull a strong thread between them (twine, thick fishing line), which will control the general plane of the surface.
Important: Constantly check the evenness of the masonry with a spirit level - both horizontally and vertically.

When building an extension, it is important not to miss one required step - additional fastening of the walls being erected to the main building. Some ignore this stage, believing that the attached room can only hold the mortar in place. This is not true. The lack of additional fastening can subsequently lead to the appearance of cracks, which will be very difficult to eliminate.

The process of reinforcing the masonry will allow to avoid the appearance of this trouble (it is enough to do it through one laid row). To do this, you will need to drill holes in the walls of the main building and lay the reinforcement in such a way that one end of it is in the drilled hole, and the other lies on the surface of the lined row.

Further work continues in the same spirit: the next and next rows of brick (stone) are laid out. It should be noted that they must be installed on top of each other so that the connecting (vertical) seams of the previous and subsequent rows do not match. That is, laying bricks in a checkerboard pattern: the top one is located on two (sometimes even three, depending on the type of dressing) of the lower ones. This is done to achieve maximum strength and solidity of the structure.

Seismic belt installation

1. Install formwork
2. Lay the reinforcing structure
3. pour concrete

The seismic belt, like the foundation, must be given time to solidify.

Roof erection

It is recommended to cover the roof with the same material that was used on the roof of the main building. This option is considered ideal when the sheets of both parts of the building are completely combined with each other. For example, consider the construction of a slate roof, which is most often found in ordinary summer cottages. The whole process of work can be divided into three main stages:

1. Wooden frame installation
2. Flooring hydro and vapor barrier
3. Slate installation

Frame installation
The wooden frame consists of beams, which it is desirable to additionally drive into the wall of the main country house. The distance between the elements is no more than one meter.

The next step is the crate, which is attached perpendicular to the main bars. The boards are installed in such a way that one sheet of slate can lie on four of them. If the roofing material has a length of two meters, then the crate is mounted at a distance of 50 cm between the structural elements.

Flooring hydro and vapor barrier
Modern slate, unfortunately, is not of high quality, so it is advisable to lay a layer of hydro and vapor barrier under it. The film is bought at the store and attached to the crate using a construction stapler. The insulation is fixed from the bottom up in horizontal rows, so that the top layer slightly overlaps the bottom one (with an overlap). This is done so that water cannot get on the wooden structural elements or damage the ceiling of the extension - if it finds a way to penetrate under the slate or other roofing material.

Slate installation
Installation of slate is done in rows going from bottom to top. The first sheets are initially fixed only to the two lower roofing nails (to the second lath from the bottom). The second sheet of slate in the first row is overlapped (on one wave of the previous one). Laying in the same sequence continues to the end of the roof, where trimming of the material may be required. This procedure can be performed using a grinder and a stone work disc. Installation of the second and subsequent rows completely repeats the laying of the first.
Important:

• The first row of slate should be extended beyond the wall by 10-15 centimeters to minimize the detrimental effect of water on the walls.
• Nails are driven into the top of the wave: this way the probability of accidentally damaging the sheet with a hammer blow is reduced to a minimum; atmospheric precipitation will collect in the slate gutters, and not on the waves, therefore, the possibility of moisture entering through the nail holes is practically reduced to zero.

The main work is done. It is advisable to postpone the finishing of the extension to the country house for a sufficiently long time (six months). The thing is that the additional structure will shrink, and this can lead to the appearance of microcracks that will simply spoil the finishing work carried out. You should not worry about shrinkage - this is a natural process through which all buildings go. If you did everything right, the extension to the country house will serve faithfully for many years.

Over time, some private buildings require expansion for various reasons. For example, an increase in the number of people sitting, sewerage into the house, or the need to close the front door from direct cold. Therefore, there is a need for an additional room, expanding the kitchen, arranging a room for a bathroom, or simply building a veranda.

An extension to the house with your own hands can be made of wood, brick, or in a combined version, which includes several building materials.

Requirements for premises

In order not to have to make additional changes already in the attached room, it is better to immediately think through all the nuances of the extension, since each of them requires a special approach.

Extra room

If you want to add another living room to the house, you will have to try, since this work is almost tantamount to building a small house. The floors, walls and ceiling of the building must be well insulated, otherwise the heating provided to it will not be effective - this is one of the main conditions for a dwelling. The second important condition for normal living is the absence of dampness in the room, which means that reliable waterproofing is needed.

Kitchen or bathroom

When arranging these premises, before installing the foundation, engineering communications are brought to the construction site - in particular, sewer pipes. You may have to separately conduct and plumbing.

In addition, it is also worth paying attention to the insulation of all elements of the structure, to think about reliable waterproofing of the floor.

Veranda

A veranda is a light structure that serves mainly to protect the main entrance to the house from wind and rain, or is used for summer holidays. It can be closed, have a door and one or more windows, and may be and completely open, that is, it is a flooring, low walls and a roof raised on pillars.

This building does not require special insulation, but you still have to carry out waterproofing for the foundation.

Foundation for an extension

The foundation for an extension can be tape, lined with brick or stone blocks, or columnar. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. To stop at one of them, you need to find out how each design is arranged, and choose the one that is more suitable for a particular extension.

Information about the construction of the foundation

Strip foundation

So, the strip foundation is arranged in the following sequence:

• First you need to mark up and trace the place where the extension will be placed. This is done with a rope that is stretched across the terrain and secured with pegs.

• Further along the markup, a trench is dug to the same depth as the foundation of his house is built. It would be nice to fix the reinforcement connecting the foundations of the main building and the extension before pouring concrete.
• The width of the trench should be 100–150 mm greater than the planned wall thickness.
• After the trench has been dug, it is further prepared. First, backfilling at the bottom of a sand cushion with a thickness of 100–120 mm is carried out. It must be carefully tamped.
• The next layer is covered with crushed stone or broken brick, which is also compacted with a manual rammer.
• Further along the entire perimeter, waterproofing is laid in the trench, which should extend to the soil surface by 40–50 cm, since it should close not only the inner part of the foundation, but also the formwork for its above-ground part.
• A welded reinforcing structure is installed on the waterproofing film, which must repeat the shape of the foundation, and to its entire height.
• Then the reinforcement is poured with a rough concrete mortar of cement and gravel, to ⅓ of the height of the trench, and after this layer has hardened, the next one is poured - to one second of the remaining height.

Installation of formwork for strip foundation

• After pouring this layer, you can start building a wooden formwork to form the above-ground part of the foundation - the basement. The waterproofing film is left inside the formwork, straightened along its walls and fixed on top of them so that it does not slip into concrete.
• Concrete is poured into the prepared formwork to the top. Then the solution is pierced in several places with a shovel so that no air cavities remain inside it. You can lightly tap on the formwork - this vibration will help the concrete to compact as much as possible.

• After completing the pouring of the foundation, the concrete is leveled to the required level and left to dry, sprayed daily with water to harden.
• After the final hardening of the concrete, the formwork is removed and the foundation is waterproofed from the outside.
• Before starting the construction of walls, it is recommended to additionally cover the foundation with waterproofing compounds or roll materials. For this process, liquid rubber, tar, bituminous mastic and roofing material are used.

• The space inside the strip foundation can also be equipped in different ways - with a concrete screed or flooring from floor beams and a log with a wooden floor on them.

Video - building an extension to a house on a strip foundation

Column Foundation

In addition to the strip foundation, a columnar foundation can be arranged, which is built from brick or concrete, as well as a combination of these materials. Basically, this option is used for the construction of verandas or additional living rooms, since communications associated with water supply or sanitation in an uninsulated or even open underground will require additional thermal insulation.

A columnar foundation is most often arranged if it is planned to mount a boardwalk.

The work is carried out in several stages:

• The first step is marking the site selected for the extension. The pillars should be at a distance of one and a half meters from each other.

• Pit pits are dug for each pillar separately. Their depth should be 500-600 mm, with a square side of 500 × 500 mm. To the top of the pit should expand somewhat - by about 100 mm on each side.

Installation diagram of the foundation pillar

• Next, the bottom is strengthened in the same way as when constructing a strip foundation, using sand and gravel, waterproofing is laid.
• If the pillars will be built of brick, it is recommended to lay a layer of coarse cement mortar on the bottom. Only after waiting for it to harden, they make brickwork.
• If the pillars are concrete, a reinforcing structure and formwork are installed at the bottom of the pits to the height of the future pillar. The waterproofing film is allowed inside the formwork and fixed on top of it;
• Concrete is poured into the formwork in layers. Each layer must set well before the next is poured;
• The top of the column is well leveled and sprinkled daily with water until completely solidified;
• After the pillars are ready, the formwork is removed from them and they waterproofed roofing material, which is glued to heated bituminous mastic.
• In the gap remaining between the soil and the pillars, backfilling is done, tamping every 100-150 mm of the backfilled soil mixed with crushed stone.
• Several layers of roofing material are laid on each of the pillars - it is necessary for waterproofing the wooden bars that will be laid on top of the pillars.

Extension floor base device

If a strip foundation is chosen, both a wooden and a concrete floor can be arranged on it. A columnar foundation without lintels suggests a wooden floor.

Concrete floor

To make a reliable and warm floor screed inside the strip foundation, you need do work step by step, adhering to a certain technology.

• To begin with, excess soil is selected inside the finished strip foundation. It is first loosened and then removed to a depth of approximately 250-350 mm.
• At the bottom of the resulting pit, a sandy ten-centimeter pillow is poured and compacted. Crushed stone can be laid on top of it, but instead of crushed stone, expanded clay is used to insulate the screed, poured in a layer of 15–20 cm.

• Expanded clay is leveled, and a reinforcing grate is laid on it. After its installation, a beacon system is arranged from above along the selected horizontal level. Some rooms, such as a bathroom or an open terrace, may also require a certain slope of the surface for unhindered flow of water that has fallen on the floor to the drainage system.
• Next, a cement mortar is laid out on the prepared surface and leveled using the rule. A day later, it can be covered with plastic wrap - then the concrete will mature more evenly, which will give it additional strength.

When the walls of the extension are erected, any decorative coating or a wooden floor can be laid on the resulting concrete base.

Floor on wooden beams

• Floor beams are wooden bars of a sufficiently large thickness, about 150 × 100 mm in cross section. You can’t save on them, since the overall strength of the floor will depend on their reliability.

• Beams are laid on poles or strip foundations, on top of the made roofing material substrate, and can be fixed to concrete in various ways - using through fasteners, corners and other metal devices. Between themselves, the beams at the intersections are also fastened with powerful corners.

• They will hold securely, as the wooden flooring of the "black" and "white" floor also serves as a kind of binding fastener.

Video: erection of a frame extension with a wooden floor

Construction of extension walls

Brick or frame walls can be built on a ready-made strip foundation, while a columnar one is mainly used for frame buildings. If it is planned to make brickwork on the pillars, then additional concrete lintels will have to be made between the pillars.

Frame walls

• The frame for future walls is erected from a bar and fixed to the crown beams of the ceiling that were mounted earlier. The beams can be attached to the beams separately, but sometimes it is much more convenient to assemble the wall elements in a horizontal position, on a flat area, and then install them in a vertical position already assembled.

• To connect the frame to the wall of the house, perfectly accurate vertical markings are made on it, along which a separate bar or assembled frame element will be fixed.

• For reliability, all the bars are interconnected by metal corners.

• Having installed the entire frame of the extension, it is better to immediately sheathe it with boards or plywood (OSB) from the outside. Sheathing will immediately make the structure stiffer.

• The upper horizontal beam, running along the house, is attached to the main wall using reliable metal corners or anchors.
• The walls are insulated after the roof is installed.

Video: another example of building a light extension to the house

brick walls

• Before you start building brick walls, you need to carefully check the horizontalness of the foundation surface and, if necessary, align it to the ideal. If the base is uneven, then the masonry may crack from deformation during shrinkage.
• It should be noted that brick extensions are best done to also a brick house. To connect the extension with the main wall, during the construction of the walls, holes are drilled two-thirds of the depth, through every two to three rows of masonry. Reinforcement is embedded in them, which should protrude from the wall by about half a meter. It should be in the seams of the future masonry. So that the seams on these rows are not excessively wide, the reinforcement should not be chosen too thick, or it will be necessary to make a recess in the bricks of the row on which the reinforcement will be laid.
• If a brick extension is arranged against a wooden wall, then a hole is drilled through it, into which reinforcement with a transverse stopper is installed from inside the house, which will hold it in the wall. Reinforcement is also installed as the wall is erected, every two or three rows.

• Before starting laying, a twine is stretched along the future wall, along which it will be easy to control the horizontal rows, and the verticality is constantly verified with a plumb line.
• The thickness of the walls will depend on what function the extension will perform. If this is a living room, then laying should be done, at least one or two bricks. If the room will play the role of a veranda or utility room, then half-brick laying will be enough.
• Having built brick walls, they are tied around the top with a concrete belt. Formwork is made for it, a reinforcing structure is laid in it and poured with concrete mortar. After the solution has completely solidified, the formwork is removed from the belt, and you can proceed to the flooring device.

It should be noted that building brick walls is not as easy as it seems, therefore, if there is no experience in this work, it is better to entrust this process to a qualified bricklayer or choose a different type of wall.

Covering the extension and roofing

After the walls are erected, it is necessary to make a ceiling. For it you will need bars - beams, which are installed on the upper part of the walls, at a distance of 60-70 cm from each other, and fixed with special corners.

If the beams are laid on a brick building, they can be embedded in a concrete belt, after wrapping the edge of each of them with roofing material.

The next step is the filing of the beams with boards or thick plywood, on which a heater will be laid on top, between the beams.

The roof of the extension can have different designs, but basically a shed option is chosen, which is worth considering.

• This design consists of rafters on which the roof is laid. This type of roof is arranged quite simply, the main thing is to choose the right slope angle. It must be at least 25 — 30 degrees - this is necessary so that precipitation does not linger on the surface in winter, otherwise they can simply damage it.
• Having determined the slope angle, a mark is made on the wall or front part of the roof in the form of a horizontal flat line, along which the bar supporting the rafters in the upper part will be attached. The lower support for them will be the previously laid floor beams or the edge of the wall. The rafters must extend beyond the boundaries of the constructed walls by 250 — 300 mm, in order to protect the walls from rainwater as much as possible.
• The rafters are also fixed with the help of metal corners.
• It will be more difficult to solve the issue of the slope of the roof if the extension is installed on the side from which the slope of the main building of the house is arranged, since there will simply be nothing to fix the cross beam there. Therefore, you may have to remove several lower rows (sheets) of roofing material from the roof of the house in order to use its beams to secure the truss system and unify the overall coverage.
• It is necessary to decide in advance which roof will be laid on top of the truss system. If it is a soft roof or flexible tiles, then solid material is laid and fixed on top of the rafters, for example, plywood or frequent transverse lathing.
• If large canvases are fixed (roofing iron, metal tiles, slate, etc.), then they can be overlapped with directly installed rafters.
• When the system under the covering material is ready, it is recommended to lay waterproofing on it. In the first case, plywood is covered with it, in the second, it is fixed to the rafters.
• Roofing material is laid on top of the waterproofing material, starting from the bottom of the truss system and rising up. If it is necessary to combine the roof, then when docking, the top row of the roof of the extension is slipped under the last row of the roof slope of the main structure.
• If the roof adjoins the upper part of the roof to the wall or the frontal part of the roof, then the joint between them must be waterproofed.
• When the roof over the erected extension is ready, you can begin to insulate the walls and floor.

Prices for metal tiles

metal tile

Insulation of the extension from the inside

If the room is residential, then reliable thermal insulation is indispensable. If the ceiling is already sheathed and insulated, then you can proceed to the insulation of the floor.

Floor insulation on beams

If floor beams were installed on a columnar foundation for the floor, then the work proceeds as follows:

• Transverse logs from smaller bars are fixed to the floor beams.
• It is recommended to arrange a draft floor on the logs, in this case it is better to lay the boards for it with a continuous flooring, otherwise the heat from the house will be blown out.

• Further, the entire rough coating is smeared with a sufficiently thick clay solution, and after drying, a vapor barrier film is laid on it.
• Mineral wool is tightly laid between the logs, expanded clay or slag is poured.

• From above, the insulation is again closed with a vapor barrier, and a wooden floor is laid on it from boards or plywood.
• A decorative coating can be immediately laid on the plywood, or an infrared film floor can be arranged under it.

Concrete floor

The concrete floor can be insulated as follows:

• Mineral wool laid between logs fixed to a concrete base and then covered with boards or plywood.
• One of the "warm floor" systems (electric or water), which fits into the final leveling screed;
• Infrared film laid on a thin thermal reflective substrate, and closed with a decorative coating;
• dry screed and gypsum fiber plates.

When the floors are insulated, you can proceed to the thermal insulation of the walls.

Frame walls

• Mineral wool produced in mats is used for internal wall insulation. It is convenient to lay them between the bars of the frame. This work is simple and is done quickly enough.
• When the walls are covered with insulation, it is tightened with a vapor barrier film, fixing it on the bars with brackets.
• Then the wall can be covered with natural wooden clapboard, OSB boards or plywood, drywall or GVL - there are a lot of options, there are plenty to choose from.

Expanded polystyrene can also be used as a wall insulation, but its environmental and operational qualities are much worse than those of high-quality mineral wool.

brick walls

Brick walls are usually finished with plaster or drywall from the inside, and insulation is carried out from the outside, but they do it differently.

Insulation, if space permits, can be carried out in the same way as in a frame building, fixing bars on the walls and laying mineral wool between them, and then closing the structure with plasterboard slabs. Wallpaper or any other decorative material can be glued to this coating.

To do everything right, you need to study in detail each stage of the construction of the extension and adhere to the developed technologies. If there is no confidence in one's abilities, there is a clear lack of skills and experience in construction, it is better to entrust this rather difficult work to qualified craftsmen.