How to spray thuja from yellowing leaves. Yellowing of thuja needles - causes and methods of treatment

My mother, fearing that winter would destroy our freshly planted thuja, wrapped it in foil. the thuja survived, but spring came unexpectedly early, a greenhouse effect was created behind the film, and my thuja dried up at the trunk. She didn't look attractive at all. (Photo 2 - my thuja for the second year after yellowing)

Restoring the beauty of thuja

Often I hear that the thuja does not take root well in the Moscow region - it turns red, dries up and dies. But in fact, thuja grows quite well with us. You just need to take good care of her. And for some it is not necessary, if there are all conditions.

If you are going to plant a thuja this spring (namely, it is best to do this in the spring!) Or notice how the plantings planted last year or the year before last turned red, then you need to act.

When buying a thuja hellishly suffers from microdamage during transportation. Fungi and bacteria freely penetrate into it, and the tuika becomes ill. Therefore, make sure that not a single soul touches the chosen beauty with its hands by the needles - you can only by the trunk! The more often the needles are touched when buying / selling, transporting and disembarking, the much worse the thuja will look afterwards.

If your already growing thuja turns red and dies, starting inside from the trunk, then this is due to the effects of drought. The process began in the summer, but manifested itself only in this moment. And the tree sacrifices old green needles in order to save young growths. If your thuja looks bad, then have patience, because bringing it back to its former beautiful green view It may take more than one year, maybe two or three. Get started immediately without wasting a day. Take a pruner and mercilessly clean the plant of dried red needles. The thuja itself will not fall off, and will not be cleansed. Feel free to prune, the thuja tolerates it well, it is not in vain that it is dynamically used in the "hedge".

Cut off the growing point (shorten the top of the plant by 10-15 cm).

Take acidic peat (3-4 pH) and pour a thick layer under the plant. Peat can be carefully mixed with the top layer of the earth.

Apply together with peat fertilizer "Pokon", which is for conifers, or "Buyskoe coniferous" - standardly 20 g per 1 plant.

Spray thuja with diluted "Epin", After 10 days - "Zircon", another 10 days later - mullein (half a glass of 5 liters of water).

These 3 treatments must be completed before the end of June! Admire the effect - a partial revival will come towards the end of the summer. Your thuja will turn green and grow vigorously. Full recovery of trees may come next spring.

There may be several reasons for the yellowing of the thuja:

1. lack of moisture, drought(especially possible if the thuja was planted in the spring and watered little).

Sufficient watering, twice a week sprinkling from a hose with a divider. Processing several times with the anti-stress preparation "Epin".

2. On the contrary, wetting of the roots(for example, in areas where there is a high level ground water).

In the spring, transplant to another place with the necessary drainage.

3. Infection with fungal diseases(multiple triggers).

Removal of dried shoots, treatment in autumn and spring with fungicides - fundazol, HOM, Oksikhom, kartotsid, abiga-peak. Or for the prevention of fungal diseases, in the spring, with the onset of warm sunny weather (+ 5 + 18 C), And every 3rd and 4th week, spray with Fitosporin-M.

If the thuja has dried up, turned yellow all over, then it can no longer be saved.

It should be noted that these treatments in all three cases will be useful, because pathogens of fungal diseases can settle in dying shoots.

As for my beauty, I also cut off the inside - this is for a cosmetic effect and I took a shower once a week. In two years, it has grown in height by 50 cm and the same in width. Big and beautiful, now you have to tie several trunks of it, because. it fills the space, and what will happen next!

Plant thuja, it is beautiful and green all year round and perfectly tolerates our Russian frosts, especially western thuja.

Not only pests are dangerous for thuja. With improper care and watering, they can be subject to disease. It is worth considering the main ones: how they are characteristic, and how to cure your favorite trees from them.

Phytophthora

Phytophthora is considered the most famous and dangerous fungal disease of thuja. It's a root disease that destroys it upper layer. On the appearance thuja is reflected like this: it fades, turns into grey colour, Bottom part the trunk becomes soft to the touch. The tissue under the bark changes color to brown, and a plaque will appear below. The root becomes brittle, with a smell of rot.

Basically, phytophthora affects thuja growing on poorly drained land, the water often stagnates here.

Treatment

For the prevention of phytophthora, it is often necessary to water the thuja with fungicides. If the disease nevertheless got to it, and the roots festered, it is best to destroy the tree and replace the earth, since this fungus can live for a long time.

This is a fungal disease that appears in early spring. You can notice it by yellowed scales. In the late stage of development, the disease affects the entire shoot, and it dies.

How to overcome?

To protect the thuja from this disease, it is constantly fed, and the roots are sprinkled with limestone. In the period July-October until October, it is advisable to spray the thuja with Fundazol (2% solution) every 2 weeks. If you see at least one affected shoot, it should be cut out immediately, and then the disease will not spread further.

If the bark is covered with yellow ulcers, which gradually grow and increase, your tree has picked up a false shield. Treatment should be started immediately, otherwise this disease will cause spots to cover the entire trunk, and it will die.

What to treat?

In order to destroy the false shield, the following means are used: Rogor, Karbofos, Aktellik, Antio.

There are also folk methods. To prevent this disease, you can wrap the trunk with straw or burlap. At the same time, treat the branches with a soap solution on dinatured alcohol (15 grams of soap, 10 ml of alcohol and 1 l warm water). Another way is to apply special glue from caterpillars to the surface (this will keep pests out).

As soon as you notice just a few larvae, try to simply brush them off with a brush or knife without damaging the bark.

Shutte and rust

Fungal diseases, manifested by darkening and falling of needles. They begin in the spring and spread throughout the year. Mostly young trees are affected.

How to remove rust and shute? The best drugs for prevention

To stop the development of the disease, it is necessary to cut off all the affected branches and burn them to prevent its spread to others. coniferous trees. But this doesn't always help.

It is best to treat affected trees with HOM. The consumption rate of the drug is 40 g / 10 l of water. This solution should be sprayed on the affected trees twice a season: in spring (in May) and in summer when the disease reappears. Since both schütte and rust are characteristic of all conifers, it is worthwhile to carry out preventive treatment of the rest of the conifers (all, without exception). It is carried out with the same HOM in the same dose, but only once in the spring.

In the absence of effect, it is necessary to shed the trunk circles of the affected trees with Fundazol. The consumption rate of the drug is 20 g / 10 l of water - you get a solution (0.2%), which is spilled trunk circle affected tree once per growing season. No need to spray trees with it, only the soil to destroy the infection in it.

Topsin-M is also used from Shutte: the consumption rate of the drug is 15 g / 10 l of water, this solution is consumed per 1 mature plant. Spraying is carried out once in the spring after the threat of night frost has passed.

Instead of HOM, you can purchase Bordeaux mixture. This is an old, but very effective and proven remedy, suitable for many cultures. It is not necessary to buy it.

homemade bordeaux mixture recipe

It's easy to cook it yourself. The purchased bag contains lime and copper sulfate. So, to prepare ten liters of a one percent solution, you need 100 g of lime and 100 g of vitriol.

Prepare it like this:

1. in glass or wooden utensils(in no case, not iron or plastic!) vitriol (copper sulfate) is bred. Up to five liters of water are added, in another container the same with lime;
2. Diluted vitriol is carefully poured into slaked lime;
3. Mixed. You should get a light blue liquid;
4. To understand if there is enough blue vitriol we poured, you need to take an iron object not covered with rust (for example, a knife) and lower it to the bottom of our liquid. The appearance of a red plaque means bust;
5. Fixing this is easy by adding lime. It is necessary to check, otherwise you can burn the plants.

With this working solution, preventive spraying can be carried out every spring (during the growth of new needles) at the rate of 10 l / 100 m².

Outcome

Proper care And timely help will protect and cure your thuja from many possible diseases and pests. But it is also important to remember that the shedding and yellowing of the needles does not necessarily signal the appearance of some kind of disease.

Thuja often changes color and sheds needles at the end of the growing season. Appearance may indicate that it is dying. But in fact, it is just preparing for winter, and changing the color of the needles is just its defensive reaction.

You may be interested in information:

- thuja pests and methods of dealing with them;

Why do thujas turn yellow? Perhaps every second owner of evergreen shrubs faces this issue. There can be several reasons for changing the color of the needles. To find out the true, you will have to carefully observe the plants. So you can determine exactly what happened to the fluffy beauties and start a "rescue operation."

Natural yellowing of needles

Yellowing does not always indicate a serious problem. Sometimes this is a completely normal process. The fact is that every needle has a life span. On average - 3-5 years. After the expiration of this period, the needles lose chlorophyll grains responsible for green coloring, turns yellow and dies. After some time, a new one appears in place of the old needle - fresh and green.

If you notice that on inside crowns, individual needles fade and fall off, then, most likely, nothing terrible happens. It's just that thuja changes its "fur coat".

Some varieties also change color with the advent of autumn. So, thuja Holstrup, Brabant and Columna are painted in a light brown shade. Color change is a response to a decrease in temperature, allowing you to adapt to new conditions. In the spring, everything returns to normal and the crown turns green again. If this does not happen, then the reason lies elsewhere.

Thuja Columna hedge

Landing and departure errors

The second most common cause of needle yellowing is errors in planting seedlings and subsequent care for them.

Soil characteristics are of particular importance. Planting thuja on sandy soil, which is unable to retain nutrients, leads to discoloration. dense clay soil contains little oxygen necessary for the full development of the root system. Weak roots cannot absorb the necessary trace elements in sufficient quantities, which also leads to the appearance of dry needles.

Peatlands with stagnant waters - not the best place for landing. The roots, which are constantly in humid conditions, begin to rot, and this is again reflected in the appearance of the thuja - it fades, turns yellow and crumbles. With the surface flow of groundwater, the arrangement of a drainage cushion is mandatory. Otherwise, the tarnishing of the needles and the “baldness” of the branches cannot be avoided.

Yellowed thuja branch

In addition to the above, yellowing leads to:

• excessive deepening of the root neck during planting, or, conversely, its exposure - the root neck should be flush with the ground;
• too tight fit. The distance between individual shrubs must be at least 1 m. The exception is when arborvitae are planted to obtain a hedge;
• drastic change in growing conditions. If the shrubs have been growing in the shade for a long time, and for some reason you decide to transplant them in the sun, then get ready for the fact that the green “hat” may not be as bright as before;
• abuse of fertilizers. Uncontrolled introduction of complex mineral additives is harmful - the needles turn yellow and become loose;
• lack of moisture. Insufficient watering negatively affects the general condition of the thuja. She starts to get sick and turns yellow.

Thuja changes color with a lack of iron in the soil. First the needles turn yellow, then white.

Great harm coniferous plants inflicted by pets. When cats and dogs regularly mark bushes, this leads to damage to the root system and the appearance of a red bloom on the shoots.

Another common cause of yellowing needles is sunburn. Many varieties of thuja are sensitive to the spring sun, and if they are not protected with covering material, then the end of winter will be marked for you by the appearance of yellow-orange burns on the branches.

A thuja seedling that died in the spring from a sunburn

Pests and diseases

If you have ruled out natural yellowing, improper planting and care, then proceed to a careful examination of the shrubs. Perhaps pests have settled on them.

The most common sucking pests are thuja false scales and aphids. The first is a small brown insect, no larger than 3 mm in size. You need to look for her, or rather them, on the underside of the shoots. Aphids also live on the underside of branches. But they have a grayish color with a slight wax coating.

Thuja branch affected by thuja false shield

Of the needle-eating pests, the moth and gray leafy leafworm are the most to be feared. Moth is easy to see. Caterpillars do not even try to hide and openly gnaw passages in the tissues of the plant. The danger of leaflet infection is manifested in the fact that the thuja not only loses its decorative effect, but also dies with a careless attitude. You can get rid of such "guests" with the help of preparations containing pyrethroids and sanitary pruning.

Another enemy of the thuja is the click beetle. The larvae of this insect feed on the roots of the shrub. It is noteworthy that the process can take several years. At first, tiny larvae eat small thuja roots without causing significant damage, but after 3-5 years they become able to gnaw thick roots. The needles quickly turn yellow, dry out and fall off. Digging the soil and processing with diazinon-based products will help to defeat the attack.

Click beetle larva

Yellowing needles may be associated with fungal diseases. The tinder fungus and Phytophthora cause not only a change in the color of the needles, but also a softening of the bark, cessation of growth, drying out of the shoots and rotting of the roots. Fighting fungal infections is difficult. Sick shoots are cut off, “wounds” are treated with paint on drying oil, bushes are sprayed with preparations containing copper, but if the affected area is extensive, then it is recommended to completely destroy the plantings and disinfect the soil.

Root system affected by late blight

Now that you know why arborvitae are turning yellow, it will be easier for you to determine the true root cause and take conservation measures. natural beauty this wonderful plant. Let your evergreen "wards" remain bright and extraordinarily beautiful!

If your thuja turns yellow and dries, then you do not need to immediately panic. In this case, it is very important to act patiently. The same thing happens quite often with juniper. In order to bring both of these plants back to normal, you will have, as they say, a little "tinkering". You won't be able to restore them quickly. Be prepared that for this you will need a whole year, and maybe even two. The term is quite large, but in order to reduce it, you need to start doing thuja quickly. Do not waste time, but immediately begin to improve your dried-up thuja.

Thuja turns yellow and dries. What should be done to help her?

First of all, it will be necessary to remove all dry and already seriously reddened needles from it. You can easily do this with a pruner. If you do not help the plant to remove these needles, then do not expect it to fall off by itself. So, your plant will never be able to clear itself. Here you need to boldly cut the thuja. It is quite possible that in the end the tree after pruning will look terrible for you, as it will lose almost half of its needles. But, you should not be afraid of this. You will also need to cut off the growth point, and besides this, also shorten the crown of the plant, about 10-15 centimeters.

Subsequent processing and feeding of thuja

In the next stage of plant restoration, you will need to purchase acidic peat. Its pH level should be 3-4 units. Such peat is poured in a good, thick layer under an already cut plant. Peat can be simply poured, or mixed with the soil, with its top layer.

Together with peat, fertilizer is also added, which will help the thuja recover faster. This is the drug "Buyskoe coniferous", the consumption rate of which, per plant, should be 20 grams.

Coniferous trees are unpretentious and durable. But even these mighty giants are subject to different kind diseases

Causes of drying thuja

• Seasonal color change.
• Inadequate care for thuja.
• Over or under watering.
• Overdose chemical fertilizers or drugs.
• Needle burn.
• Tui diseases.
• Tui pests.

Seasonal color change of thuja

The species plants of the western thuja (Thuja occidentalis) and the folded thuja (T. plicata) acquire a golden-bronze color in the winter months. The needles of the Brabant, Columna and Holstrup varieties are only slightly stained in Brown color, and the beautiful, lush needles of the Smaragd variety, even in severe frosts, retain their rich green hue. The darkening or browning of the thuja needles is a kind of protective reaction to the cold snap and adaptation to the cold winters that prevail in its homeland - in the western and eastern parts of North America.

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With the advent of spring and the beginning of sap flow, such needles again gain juicy green color. If this did not happen in the spring, you are faced with a more serious problem than the natural physiological characteristics of the thuja. But you need to remember that in the spring on the thuja, a sunburn of the needles can occur.

Insufficient care for thuja

With a properly chosen place, thuja requires minimal care, but reacts very strongly to insufficient watering (you need to water it once a week in a bucket, and during a drought period - 2 buckets twice a week) or waterlogging of the soil (rotting roots). And if the thuja was planted in a sunny place, then the soil around the tree should be mulched to protect it from moisture loss and sunburn.

It is mandatory for a newly planted tree to install a fence to prevent animals from defecation on it.

Excessive or insufficient watering of thuja

Thuja loves well-moistened soil, but can not stand the stagnation of moisture, however, as well as the close occurrence of groundwater. The recommended frequency of watering for arborvitae is once a week, during dry periods, twice a week, and in the first month after planting, daily. The volume of water during irrigation, under normal conditions, should be a bucket per tree (under unfavorable factors - two buckets). In order for moisture to be retained in the soil, but not to stagnate, the ground in the trunk circle must be mulched: in winter - with sawdust, in summer - with peat. Excessive watering and stagnant moisture for more than two weeks lead to rotting of the roots of the plant and contribute to the development of fungal diseases. With insufficient watering, the thuja turns yellow and dries. He loves thuja and periodic sprinkling, especially in the summer heat. It is better to do this in the evening, so that drops on the needles do not provoke sunburn.

Overdose of chemical fertilizers or drugs when feeding thuja

It is worth feeding the plant two years after planting at the rate of 100 g per mineral fertilizers, and organic 2-3 liters. It is not recommended to use fresh manure, you can use rotted manure for six months, and leave the manure for at least 10 days and add it under the plant, diluting it with water.

Burn of thuja needles

Spring in sundial when the soil has not yet completely thawed and the roots do not function, browning of the needles is often observed. Protection Measures: Scatter peat chips and ash around the plant to reduce sunlight reflection. Use a special mesh to shade the plant. Since autumn, water-charging watering has been carried out, since in winter, in frost, the needles lose moisture greatly. In the spring, immediately after the snow melts, start actively watering. To increase survival and strengthen immunity - spray the plant with Epin (0.01%), water under the root with Zircon (0.01%).

Tui diseases

Phytophthora on thuja

The most dangerous fungal disease for thuja on the site - phytophthora. The reason for its appearance is most often the proximity of groundwater or poor soil drainage. The fungus settles on the roots of the plant and gradually affects the entire tree. The trunk closer to the surface becomes loose, the needles and bark change color to gray, and over time the tree dies. Fungicides are used for prevention, it will not be possible to cure late blight if the root system is damaged - it is better to dig up and burn the plant. Fungus spores live in the soil for a long time, so the soil must be replaced or disinfected.

Brown shoots on thuja

A similar disease occurs mainly in early spring. It manifests itself by yellowing of some scales. If nothing is done, then the shoot will first turn brown, and then die. For treatment, it is necessary to cut out the affected processes. After that, the tree must be constantly sprinkled with limestone and fed. From mid-summer to the end of September, thuja should be sprayed with foundationazole.

By the way, browning and yellowing of the tops of the plant can occur when access is violated. nutrients from roots to crown. This happens for the following reasons:

Fusarium or tracheomycosis. In this situation, it is necessary to water under the root and spray the thuja crowns with a 0.2% solution of foundationol. Instead, you can use another fungicide, for example, Abiga-Peak, cartocid or HOM. It will also help save thuja treatment with zircon, which improves the ability to resist fungal diseases.

Tui pests

False shield thuja - these are insects small sizes, have a light yellow color, when the individual dies off, the larvae remain under a false shield (skin), from which the name came.

Signs of illness: reverse side needles are placed 3-5mm. semicircular individuals. Tui begin to fade, the needles partially dry out, clearly standing out from the general view.

Methods of control and prevention: Twice a year in the spring in early May to mid-June, alternating after 7-12 days (depending on the weather) Komandor - Aktar - the last two times fungicide Champion. In autumn, it is better to apply Decis, mid-August to the end of September (every 2 weeks), the last treatment is also by the Champion.

The spider mite is a particularly dangerous insect in hot weather. summer periods, one female can bear up to 6 generations of larvae. It is the larvae that damage the needles.

Signs of disease: the presence of abundant thin cobwebs on the shoots. Looking closely at the thuja scales, you can see many small yellow spots, and then brown dying areas. The damage done by the end of summer, beginning of autumn is especially visible.

Methods of control and prevention: in hot weather Actofit can be used several times for prevention. If you find a disease, use Aktellik in the same period with an interval of 2 weeks, and additionally two times in 10-12 days Aktofit. In the spring of next year, at temperatures above +5 degrees, use Actellik 2-3 times with an interval of 2 weeks. To quickly restore color and improve growth, use top dressing for conifers, with the addition of sulfuric acid magnesium.

Prevention from drying thuja

First of all, you need to follow the rules for planting thuja and caring for it.

Measures necessary for nursing thuja

A very important action for the preservation of thuja is its regular spraying with water. During the growing season, it is necessary to loosen the soil of the root circle to a depth of up to ten centimeters, and cover the root circle itself with peat chips or wood chips. This mulching will protect the roots from overheating and drying out in hot weather, and from freezing in winter.

To prevent the death of a tree, attention should be paid to the root trunk: it should not rise much above the ground, but deepening also adversely affects the health of the plant. To revive the tree, its roots are shed well, the leafy part is heavily sprayed with water with the addition of Epin. For watering the rhizome, you can add growth stimulants "Zircon" or "Ecohol".

Apply 20 g of Buyskoye coniferous fertilizer along with peat under each plant.

Plants, like people, experience stress during transplants and adverse weather conditions. Treat the crown with an anti-stress preparation 3 times a week (Zircon mixed with a Cytovit tablet). This mixture can be used for watering the roots as a replacement for Kornevin and Heteroauxin.

In the middle of spring, immediately after the snow melts, spray the needles for the first time with the diluted Epin, ten days later with Zircon, and ten days later with an infusion of dry manure - mullein (half a cup for 5 liters of water).

A couple of handfuls of earth with mycorrhiza (fungi, microorganisms, bacteria and coniferous needles) from a coniferous forest will help restore the plants. Make a powder under each trunk circle, but do not overdo it and protect the nature of the garden from unnecessary pests.

Shade plants on bright spring days, protect young needles from burns. These measures will help conifers recover faster.