How ice hockey sticks are made. How to wrap a hockey stick: a detailed guide

Currently, all the equipment for this glorious game can be picked up at https://ultrasport.ru/konki/, however, we will tell you how you can make a hockey stick from quite simple materials with your own hands, which will serve faithfully for more than one season.

Prepare a wooden beam for work, it is best if it is oak. The width of the workpiece should be 60 mm, length - about 1 m, thickness - 30 mm.

First of all, measure 50 cm from one of the tips, make a mark. Boil water in a large saucepan (approximately 50 liters) and immerse the marked part of the timber. Your task is to steam the wood, a kind of "cooking", so that later this part of the timber can be bent.

After steaming, remove the piece of wood from the water and cut it lengthwise, deepening 35 cm deep. Then quickly this section of the bar will need to be bent in the required direction, and then quickly fixed with the help of supports prepared in advance. You can use a variety of fixing devices, the most important thing is to think everything over in advance, because after you take the piece of wood out of boiling water, it will immediately begin to cool down and then it will be problematic to bend it.

Then wait for the wood to dry - it will take some time. Drying the future stick should be in a dry room, where there are no sudden changes in temperature, draft.

Remove the workpiece from the clamps and proceed to refine it. The end of the shackle that you sawed will need to be drilled and riveted. For this purpose, use metal washers and soft wire. Plane both sides of the bent shackle with a planer until its thickness is 15 mm. Take note: if you are not lucky enough to use durable oak raw materials, then leave the bow thicker, then it will last longer.

If you are on vacation and decide to play hockey, then you can use the materials at hand. Take a tree branch - not too thin, but at the same time not too thick. It is best to use a willow branch. Cut a hook about 30 cm long, the length of the handle can be any. Carefully cut the hook with an ax, and then plan with a knife to get a playing plane.

The young man came to the stadium. Today he participates in a hockey match. This can be immediately noticed: in one hand he has skates, in the other - a stick. And he made it himself, with his own hands.
Young hockey players surround a friend and meticulously examine his "creation". The stick is very good, it will be handy to play with it!

Each of you, young hockey fans, can make yourself such a stick. You will need a little material for this: wood, glue, electrical tape and a leather strap.

ice hockey stick / ball hockey stick

Make a stick for hockey with a ball from dry wood of an ash-tree, a beech or a birch. Before processing the blank, carefully examine the wood. It should be healthy, straight-layered, without rot, cracks and other defects. You can also use wood with small, intergrown knots, but in such a way that when cutting the material they do not go to the edge of the hook or handle. The selected workpiece must correspond in length, width and thickness to this size - 1500 X X 100 X 15 mm.

Now it's time to start processing the board. Usually it is finished with a planer or on a woodworking machine. Bring the blank to the required dimensions (1250 X 70 X 12 mm), and then steam one end of it for one to two hours in hot water (90-100 °). When the wood is well steamed, immediately remove it from the water and begin to bend the hook. Bending is done on a wooden or metal block, the working part of which is made in the shape of the curved part of the hook. When the club takes the form of a blockhead, fix it in this position with clamps (metal clips) and leave it to dry completely. Then remove the stick, stick on the lining if necessary and finish it according to the dimensions indicated in fig. one.

In order for the parts of the club to stick together well, use a waterproof resin glue. If you can’t get it, you can glue the clubs with casein glue. Sand the surface of the club carefully with sandpaper and cover with hot drying oil.

Wrap the hook with electrical tape in two layers in the places indicated in fig. 2. A leather strap, 8-10 mm wide and 1.5-2 mm thick, should tightly wrap around the body of the hook. It must be woven, as indicated in Fig. 2. Fasten the end of the belt with a nail in the middle part of the inner edge of the hook. A properly made stick should weigh no more than 450 grams.

There are three types of ice hockey stick - for the player, the goalkeeper and for children. The stick consists of a handle and a hook, which are cut separately and glued together as shown in fig. 3. For gluing strength, the surfaces of the wedge of the hook and the wedge gap in the handle must be well adjusted to each other.

The wood and glue used are the same as those used to make bandy sticks. Since the hook is made separately from the handle, there is no need to bend the wood.

Player sticks come in four different numbers. They differ in the angle of setting the hook. The angle is chosen depending on the player's place in the team and his individual data (128°, 130°, 132° and 135°). The blade of the goaltender's stick can also be set at different angles (122°, 125° and 128°). The children's club has a hook angle from 130° to 140°.

The finishing of ice hockey sticks is the same as that of bandy sticks.

Remember - the strength of the club to a large extent depends on the quality of gluing parts. They need to be tightly pulled together and held in this position throughout the drying time. When using resin glue, follow the gluing technology exactly (temperature, time, etc.).

Hockey is played by many children and adults around the world, and everyone knows that it is impossible to play hockey without a stick - be it ice hockey or bandy. In order to make your own stick for bandy, basic woodworking skills will suffice. In this article, you will learn the steps involved in making a simple wooden hockey stick.

Instruction

1. You will need a wooden beam made of oak or ash, 60 mm wide and 30 mm thick. The length of the beam should be about 1000-1200 mm.
2. Measure 50 cm from the end of the beam and place this piece of wood in hot water - the end must be thoroughly steamed so that the beam bends well. Remove the tree from the water and cut the end of the timber 30-40 cm lengthwise.
3. After that, place the end in a pre-prepared template and bend the beam without waiting until it cools down after steaming. Bend the workpiece to the desired angle and fix with wedges and clamps in a bent position.
4. Wait for the wood to dry. Dry the stick blank in a warm and dry place without temperature and humidity fluctuations during the day. After a day, remove the workpiece from the mounts and the template and start processing it, giving the club a finished look.
5. Drill the sawn end of the bow with a drill and rivet it with soft copper wire with metal washers. Plane both sides of the bent bow with a planer until it reaches a thickness of one and a half millimeters.
6. After forming the bow, begin to form the handle - plan it with a planer, making the handle of a round or faceted section, as desired. Excess wood at the top of the handle can be cut off.
7. Finish the club with final sanding and polishing - use sandpaper and fine sandpaper. Coat the surface of the club with a protective varnish. Wait for the varnish to dry and then wrap the shackle with a tight knotted strap. For convenience, wrap the stick handle in a spiral with a rubber band.

- this is the main attribute of a hockey player, which determines the individual style of play and the nuances of technology. She always finds herself at the epicenter of the struggle. Even the most modern composite models do not always withstand powerful puck hits and damage from skate blades. Budget wooden clubs are generally considered consumables due to frequent breakdowns. Therefore, athletes pay special attention to the safety and extension of the playing life of their equipment.

A proven method used by hockey players around the world is to wrap the stick with a special tape. It allows not only to effectively protect the inventory from damage, but also to improve its gaming characteristics.

Why wrap the blade of the stick?

During play, its entire hook surface is subjected to intense wear. Therefore, the primary function of the winding is protection against mechanical damage. protects the butt of the hook from friction on the ice, and the side surfaces from puck strikes and cuts by skates. The wrap layer distributes point impacts, reducing the chance of nib breakage during heavy puck hits.

The second function of such protection is to improve the playing qualities of the club. The hook wrap allows for better feel and more precise control of the puck on the ice. The integrity of the surface, without chips and deep scratches, prevents snow from sticking, which in turn improves puck handling, guaranteeing powerful and snapping shots.

How to wrap the hook of a club correctly?

You can wrap the hook in different ways. Most hockey players prefer to tape the entire surface of the hook, from heel to toe. Someone wraps only the working area: the middle, front or heel. We will show you how to make a professional protection of the entire surface of the hook.

For winding use a special fabric tape. Manufacturers offer two types of this material: for the hook and for winding the handle (upper grip). This is important to take into account, because tapes differ in grip properties.

The winding starts from the heel, gently winding the tape and overlapping it.

The overlap can be complete, when a new turn of tape almost completely overlaps the previous one, and partial, with overlapping of the previous turn by less than a third. With a full overlap, the winding layer is thicker, the hook is more reliably protected from impacts, but the tape consumption is greater.

The toe of the hook can be left open or rolled up completely. If you choose not to wrap the end, it is important to break the tape at the top end of the club so that the tip does not unwind when rubbing against the ice.

When the hook is completely glued, the winding is continued beyond the toe.

The edge is smoothed and the excess is carefully trimmed with scissors.

The prepared club is ironed with a puck from toe to heel on both sides. This is necessary in order to get rid of air cavities and improve the adhesion of the adhesive.

Professional hand wrap

Hockey players wrap around the top of the stick to provide a secure overhand grip, to prevent slippage of the hand and spinning of the shaft. The rigid overhand grip minimizes the loss of energy when making hard shots and improves the level of stick control during active play.

Handle winding technique

We start wrapping the handle from the top of the stick. We do a few turns.

Without tearing off the tape, unwind it by 30-50 cm and fold it into a tight pigtail.

We wind the pigtail on the shaft at regular intervals of 2-3 cm.

Without breaking the tape, wind it up. We wrap the pigtail, applying a tape with small overlaps.

We reach the end of the handle and cut off the tape.

At the top of the handle, we form a knob with several layers of tape, which will prevent the club from slipping out when it is held with one hand.

At the request of readers

HOCKEY STICK

Making a club is a difficult and painstaking process. No wonder athletes say that a hockey stick should be as strong as steel and flexible as a walnut branch. Making a stick strong and at the same time flexible is not an easy task. This will require, in addition to the necessary materials and tools, even greater accuracy and accuracy when gluing the club.

A hockey stick should not have metal parts: all its parts are made only of wood.

The club handle and boss (see fig.) can be made from birch or beech, the hook can be made from hardwood: beech or ash. Options for selecting wood in the hook are shown in the drawing.

The boss is glued in order to give the stick elasticity and flexibility.

For gluing individual parts of the club, you can use BF-2 glue or ■ "Supercement". It is undesirable to use carpentry or casein glue, because both of these glues are afraid of dampness.

VARIL HTDI COMPOSITION WOODEN) B

Having made the components of the ilyushka: a handle, a boss and a hook, proceed to gluing these parts together.

First glue the boss with the handle as shown in the drawing. Then use a jigsaw to cut a groove for the hook. This is a very responsible operation, and it must be performed very carefully. Any unevenness left by the file can later lead to breakage of the club.

The part of the hook that connects to the handle and boss is sharpened into a cone. Lubricate the glued parts of the hook and the handle with glue and insert the hook into the groove of the handle. Clamp the club in a press or clamp and let the glue dry.

After gluing, planer the side surfaces of the hook, boss and handle, so that they do not have protrusions and roughness.

Clean the club with sandpaper and varnish the hook and handle to a height of 30-40 cm. Do not varnish the handle at the grip point.

The stick will look more efficient if you make an inscription on its handle.

The drawing shows the club numbers from 1 to 3. In general, there are only nine of them.

The stick number depends on the individual characteristics of the hockey players (skating style, height, puck handling, etc.).

For those who hold the club not far from themselves, a club with a small number is needed.

The length of the stick is considered normal if its handle reaches the chin of a hockey player standing on skates.

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SPHERE FROM PAPER

To make a ball segment, take a hoop whose diameter corresponds to the diameter of the future sphere. Pull on it evenly, on the hoop, a piece of chintz. In the center of the circle, due to its own weight, the fabric will sag by 5 - 7 mm. Place coasters under the hoop and stick several layers of newspaper (3 - 5 mm thick) on top of the circle. To avoid wrinkles, use a warm paste. Don't touch the circle until the paper is

will dry. Under the weight of wet paper, the fabric will stretch, and the workpiece will take on a spherical shape. Remove the dried sphere from the hoop and prime it. Repair irregularities with a paste, which is prepared from a mixture of one part by weight of sifted chalk and one part of paper dust, prepared from newsprint soaked for a day, wrung out, dried and powdered. Mix the mixture well and fill it with a paste of one fifth of the weight of potato flour and a tenth of the finished wood glue. Paint the sphere with nitro enamel.

COPPER WIRE

Openwork metal products (candlesticks, lamps, pendants for flowers) are firmly established in our everyday life. Light and elegant, they successfully fit into the interior of a modern apartment.

Annealed copper wire 0 3-5 mm, a simple fixture (rollers, pyramids and a cone), a soldering iron and, of course, artistic taste and rich imagination will be required for you to create a cozy home environment in the room.

Lamps and candlesticks are best made from annealed copper wire. To do this, the wire is rolled in rollers (see figure on page 16).

In the steel or duralumin base of the rollers (Fig. 1), a through hole and a groove are drilled for fixed and movable fixation of the wads (and the yaok is a bearing mounted on an axle). The non-flexible roll is fixed on the base with a nut, and the movable roll is fixed with a grommet and a locking screw (Fig. 4). The roll axles (Fig. 3) are machined from bronze, and the locking screw is made from steel. Roll the wire like this: clamp the cracker (Fig. 2) in a vice, set the bearings to the desired distance. Then take the wire at one end with pliers and drag it between the bearings. The operation is repeated until a flat plastic-tape of the required thickness is obtained (the thickness of the tape is determined by the distance between the bearings).

If the wire does not roll well, it is annealed a second time. You can bend the wire into rings of various diameters on the pyramid (Fig. 5).

To extrude various spherical surfaces (for example, plates for candlesticks), one more device is needed, consisting of a matrix of an arbitrary truss and a clamping punch (Fig. 6).

From soft metal with a thickness of 0.5-1 mm, cut a circle of the desired diameter. Place the workpiece coaxially on the matrix clamped in the lathe chuck. Then, using the taper of the tailstock of the lathe, press the punch against the die. To give the workpiece the shape of a plate, use a flat file with a bevel at the end. In the tool holder of the lathe, clamp a thick stop plate. Hold the handle of the file with one hand, and its working part with the other. Moving the file along the stop, gently press on the rotating workpiece until a plate of the desired shape is obtained from the round plate (workpiece).

Rolled wire can be used to make not only candlesticks and lamps, but also figures of animals, contour models of cars and even small plots from fairy tales.

N. SCHERBAKOV, Moscow