When the daylily blooms. Daylilies, how to plant and care for them in order to achieve abundant flowering

Daylilies have been leading the rankings of popular perennials for many years. They have undeniable advantages: they are unpretentious in cultivation and care, decorative throughout the season, bloom for a long time, and the collection of varieties and hybrids includes tens of thousands of plants with flowers of various shapes and colors.

Selecting a landing site

It is believed that daylilies can grow anywhere, because in their homeland - in the Far East, they feel great in shady forest corners.

But in the temperate climate of central Russia, daylilies in partial shade will not have enough heat for luxurious flowering, and such a planting will not allow the plants to show all their capabilities. It is better for them to choose sunny, wind-protected areas.

It is desirable that the plants are fully lit for at least 5-6 hours a day. Daylilies with a delicate color of flowers need light throughout the day, and varieties with a rich and dark color in the heat need midday shading from fading.

The soil

The soil for daylilies should be neutral or slightly acidic. The land for plants is prepared in advance and carefully, because daylilies have to grow in a permanent place for a long time - 6-15 years.

The soil is dug up to a depth of 30–35 cm. Compost, peat, and sand are added to heavy clay soil so that moisture does not stagnate. Sandy soils, on the contrary, are light and poorly retain water and nutrients, so they are enriched with humus and clay is added.

With a close occurrence of groundwater, daylilies are planted on ridges 10–15 cm high.

How to choose high-quality planting material when buying?

Planting shops and garden centers offer daylily rhizomes. Before buying, you should carefully inspect the transparent plastic packaging and make sure that the root system is alive, healthy and dense. It should be noted that if there are few roots and they are weak and thin, then such a plant will gain strength for flowering for another 2-3 years. The rhizome should not have soft and rotten parts.

When buying new products, you should find out how the variety or hybrid is adapted to the local climate. Hundreds of new daylilies appear on the market each year. Most of these plants are bred in the subtropics of the United States and it may happen that in the middle Russian latitudes their acclimatization will be difficult, so experts often advise flower growers not to forget about old reliable and proven varieties.

Landing

An important point in the cultivation of daylilies is planting in the ground. It is held in the spring in May or early September. Spring planting is preferable, such plants take root better.

If the seedling was bought late in autumn or winter, then until planting, a healthy rhizome can be stored without loss for several months. Plants are placed until the awakening of the kidneys in a cool place with a temperature of 4-8°C.

Before planting, the dead and rotten parts of the roots are removed, for disinfection they are treated with a solution of any fungicide. If the planting material has been stored for a long time and the roots have dried up, then it is soaked for several hours in a solution of humate or root. Healthy roots with this treatment will quickly come to life, the withered parts will also be visible - they are cut off.

Landing holes in diameter should be larger than the root system. The distance between them, depending on the degree of growth of the bushes, is 0.5–1 m.

A nutrient mixture of compost, garden soil, peat is added to the prepared wells. Additionally, you can add mineral fertilizers and ash. The day before planting, it is advisable to shed the soil so that the earth settles a little.

In the center of the planting hole, a small hill is formed, on which the root collar is placed. It can not be deepened much, it will have a bad effect on flowering. The depth of the root collar should not be more than 2.5–3 cm. Roots are freely distributed around in the hole. The rhizome is carefully covered with earth, compacting the soil around the seedling and watered. In the first days after planting, the roots continue to be watered regularly.

Care

Watering

Moisture is especially important for plants in the spring when flower stalks are laid and in summer during flowering. Regular deep watering is preferable to frequent and superficial. Depending on weather conditions, the plants are watered once every 7–14 days. This mode of watering is enough for the roots to accumulate moisture. Watered in the morning or evening, trying not to get water on the delicate flower petals. After watering, the plants are weeded and loosened.

top dressing

If young daylilies are planted in fertile soil, then they do not need additional feeding in the first year. Due to excess nitrogen fertilizer, the plant will grow green leaves at the expense of flowering.

Fertilizers are applied in phases: at the beginning of spring growth, in the summer before flowering and at the beginning of autumn. In summer and autumn, top dressing should contain potassium and phosphorus, important nutrients necessary for laying future flowers in all peduncles.

Daylilies are very fond of liquid fertilizing with organomineral fertilizers. Dry mineral fertilizers are scattered around the bushes, then embedded in the soil and watered. The dosage depends on the age of the daylily and the type of soil.

Particular attention should be paid to old overgrown bushes, the soil around which is exhausted by flowering.

In old, overgrown bushes, the root neck becomes exposed over time, therefore, every year, humus is poured around the base with a layer of 2–3 cm.

Plants benefit from mulching around bushes. This improves the composition of the soil, prevents overheating, protects against frost and weeds. Dry peat, compost, crushed pine bark are used as mulch. Do not use fresh sawdust. To prevent wood mulch from becoming a haven for slugs, granules of pesticides or superphosphate are scattered around the plantings.

Transfer

In one place, daylilies can grow for a long time up to 15–20 years. During this time, the bush grows, ages, the flowers become smaller. This is noticeable after 7-8 years. Therefore, every 5-6 years, plants need to be rejuvenated. Daylilies can be transplanted throughout the season, but it is preferable to do this at the beginning of spring leaf growth - in April-May or in August-September with the onset of a dormant period. With a spring transplant, rooting will be faster and more successful.

How to cover flowers for the winter?

Daylilies tolerate wintering well in central Russia. Most people have enough natural snow cover. But for the reliability of planting heat-loving daylilies in the fall, they mulch with a layer of 2-3 cm or cover with spruce branches. Also, bushes can be spudded with earth up to 15–20 cm in height. Previously, the entire dry aerial part is cut off. Shelter is especially important in the first year for young fall plantings.

With the advent of spring, the shelter is removed, the mulch is raked from the base of the bushes so that it does not interfere with the growth of new shoots.

reproduction

Daylilies are propagated by dividing the bush, seeds, stem cuttings.

The division of the bush

This is the most common way in which the plant retains all parental characteristics. There are several ways to separate daylilies: with digging up bushes or without extracting it from the ground.

The bush is completely dug out along with the root. The rhizome is washed with water. It is so easy to get rid of pests, all parts are clearly visible and it is convenient to divide the plant. Then the peduncle and leaves are removed, leaving shoots 10–15 cm high. The old bushes are dried, then the plant is cut into pieces so that each has a part of the root neck with a bud. In order for delenki to form more decorative greenery, 3-5 shoots are left on them.

It is problematic to divide strongly overgrown bushes. In such plants, young roots grow along the edges of the bushes, and these parts, after separation, will quickly take root. Delenki from the middle of the bush without young roots need time to grow, because these parts are more injured. There are more dead and long roots that are cut. Delenki from the middle of the bush are planted on a temporary bed, and after 1-2 years - on a permanent place.

Young rosettes can be separated from loose daylily bushes at the end of summer without resorting to digging up the mother bush. To do this, choose two or three-year-old bushes with their own roots.

Without digging in the spring, it is possible to divide not very growing varieties of daylilies. With a sharp shovel from a vertical position, cut a bush along the marked lines, then cut it from below and remove the pieces from the ground. This method requires experience and skill. Places of cuts on the roots are sprinkled with wood ash.

Reproduction by seeds

This method of reproduction is more often used by breeders to obtain new varieties and hybrids. Daylily seeds do not last long. Planting is carried out before winter with freshly harvested seeds or in the spring of the next year. Daylily seeds need cold stratification. With winter sowing, this procedure will take place in the soil in a natural way. In spring, the seeds are preliminarily kept at low temperatures of 2–3 ° C for a month. They are closed to a depth of 2–3 cm. Flowering in daylilies grown from seeds begins at 2–3 years.

Propagation by stem cuttings

In some varieties that bloom in August, 1-3 new bushes form in the axils of the peduncles. When they grow, they will have several pairs of leaves and root tubercles. After the peduncle has dried, the rosettes are carefully separated from the mother bush. You can cut off the cuttings with a piece of stem 3–5 cm. The leaves on the rosettes are shortened by a third, then the cuttings are planted in a nutrient substrate for rooting. At first, they make sure that the soil does not dry out, periodically spray it, shade the plants.

Diseases and pests

Daylilies are lucky, they are in good health, resistant to diseases and rarely affected by pests.

Of the diseases, the main danger for daylilies is. Its pathogens can be bacteria or fungi, and the cause is waterlogging of the soil.

Signs of the disease are stunted growth and yellowing of the leaves. They become lethargic, sticky, easily detached from the base. Urgent measures are taken immediately at the first symptoms of the disease. The plant is completely dug up. The roots are washed in a solution of potassium permanganate, all the affected parts are cut out with a sharp knife, and then the sections are sprinkled with a fungicide.

Of the pests before flowering, it causes problems daylily mosquito. It reproduces by laying eggs in buds. Damaged buds do not grow, they are deformed. They are cut off and destroyed.

Wintering in the soil scoop caterpillars in early spring, they can damage and destroy young shoots and plant buds. Pests are destroyed by weeding aisles, treating daylilies with insecticides. The use of poisoned baits is also effective.

In any garden you can find a small corner for daylilies. This is a grateful plant. For minimal care, it will delight its owners with beautiful flowering. Daylilies are good not only in flower beds, in borders or on, in bouquets they look no less festive and luxurious!

You can find out the tips of experienced flower growers on growing daylilies by watching the video.

“If bitterness and sorrow have settled in your heart, and sadness has become a companion of your whole life, breathe in the aroma, touch the “flower of joy” with your hand and everything will change. Life will become joyful and happy, the heart will find peace and beauty. So says the ancient legend. And the daylily is called the “flower of joy” in it.

Daylily is widely distributed in the Far East, South Korea, China, and Japan. It was known in ancient times and is mentioned as a medicinal plant in the recipes of ancient Chinese folk medicine. The very first mention of the daylily was found in the "Natural History" written by the Roman naturalist Pliny, who lived in 70 BC. Thanks to their characteristics and the perseverance of breeders, daylilies have settled almost all over the world.

Daylilies are herbaceous, rosette plants. Evergreen or semi-evergreen. With green, dark green, yellowish green and bluish green belt-like leaves 23 cm - 1.2 m long. The root system of an adult plant is powerful, grows 60-70 cm wide. Roots are thick, belt-like, not very branching. Stolons (additional underground shoots) are formed on the roots. Daylilies in which stolons are long (20-25 cm) form large, loose bushes. Plants are compact, with tightly fitting rosettes of leaves, have small underground shoots (3-7 cm).

The flowers are white to dark cherry in color. They delight with their beauty for only one day or one night. Three outer petals and three inner petals create various forms of tubular or wide-open star-shaped lily-like flowers. New hybrid varieties have flowers with regular rounded corrugated petals, plants with spider-like flowers are also of interest. The perianth petals are long and very narrow.

The most popular species and the best varieties of daylilies with photos

In total, there are 13 species of daylilies in the genus, numbering more than 30 thousand varieties. The advantages of one over the other are endless.

Ann Kelly. Semi-evergreen variety. The height of the bush is 65 cm. The leaves are dark green with a blue tint, reach a length of 80 cm. A flower with corrugated petals of pink-red or deep pink. Diameter 14 cm, longitudinal light stripes are clearly visible on the central part of the petal. The shape of the flower is triangular or rounded.

FairyTale Pink. The plant is semi-evergreen up to 60 cm high. The flowers are delicate pink with a strongly corrugated edge. Flower diameter 14 cm. Daylilies of this variety, at very high air temperatures, form semi-double flowers.

A photo. FairyTale Pink Daylilies

Hyperion small-flowered variety. Flowers are not more than 8-10 cm in diameter. Cone-shaped, similar to lilies. Lemon yellow, some varieties have double flowers. The smell is strong, pleasant. Bush 70 cm high.

kindly light. The flowers of this variety look like huge spiders, more than 20 cm in size. The petals are narrow bright yellow. Eye zone salmon-pink. Variety KindlyLight differs from others in night flowering. Flowers open on cool evenings and close at sunrise. Evergreen bush grows up to 70 cm.

A photo. Daylilies grade FairyTale Pink

Stella de Oro. Remontant variety, dwarf. Reaches a height of 25-28 cm. The flowers are fragrant, copper-colored. Diameter no more than 7 cm. Blooms twice a season.

A photo. Daylilies Stella de Oro

Growing daylily flowers in the garden

In order to grow daylilies in the garden, you need to know which seedlings to choose, how to plant and care for them, let's take a closer look at each of these points.

Soil requirement

When they say that daylilies are unpretentious plants and in nature live on not very fertile soils, one should not forget that in nature no one cleans up the dying aerial parts of plants and fallen leaves. Over the years, rotting, they become a full-fledged fertilizer, which is quite enough for wild varieties of daylilies.

Hybrid varieties are much more demanding on fertile soils. Therefore, to make daylilies comfortable in your garden, take soil preparation seriously enough.

If the soil in your area is sandy, not very fertile, add humus, peat and leafy soil. If it is heavy, clayey, sand, humus and peat are definitely needed.

Which location to choose for flowers

Plant daylilies where there is enough light

Daylilies, sunny flowers, they love a lot of light and sun. Their root system is arranged in such a way that during a period of high humidity there is a supply of moisture, and in dry times this moisture from “peculiar storages” enters the aerial part of the plant. Therefore, for daylilies there is not much sun. In partial shade, plants develop and bloom worse. Light partial shade is recommended for plants with dark flowers (they fade in the sun). All varieties need bright sunlight for at least 5 hours a day.

Best time to plant daylilies

Daylilies are planted or transplanted twice - in early spring and late summer. When planting in summer in August-September, the time of survival and preparation of the plant for winter should be taken into account. Experienced gardeners recommend planting in the spring.

Over the summer, the plant will get stronger, take root better, lay flower buds for flowering next year. In the winter he will leave with enough nutrients. But if there is a need to divide the bush into several parts, we do it at the end of August. By this time, the flower bud (it takes two years to form and start growing) is clearly visible (even a small rosette), which excludes the possibility of injury.

How to select and store seedlings before planting

When choosing daylilies, pay attention to their appearance.

Their further growth, development and flowering depend on the choice and preservation of seedlings. When choosing daylilies, we pay attention first of all to the appearance. The roots can be slightly dried, the stolons are uniform, dense. Without damage (lack of larval passages) and visible signs of disease. Leaf rosettes are healthy, without mechanical damage. The color of the leaves is even, without spots.

Take a good look at the back of the sheet. It may show traces of the presence of infectious insects. In specialized stores, daylilies are sold in packaging that allows you to save plants for several months. When purchasing plants in the fall or winter, store them in the bottom section of the refrigerator, in a well-ventilated basement.

If seedlings are bought in early spring, and there is some time left before planting, it is better not to stimulate growth, but to store them in a cool place. If new leaves begin to grow, plant the daylily in a large container (larger than the size of the root system). Instead of earth, use rotted (biennial) humus and peat in equal parts and slightly moisten. Pour half of the mixture into a container with a mound, spread the roots evenly over the surface, cover them with the rest of the earth. If plants planted in this way are kept on the north side, their growth will stop, they will wait for planting in a permanent place.

Soil and hole preparation

Having planned the place of future plantings, we prepare the soil. To begin with, we destroy weeds and carry out preventive measures to combat harmful insects and diseases. If the groundwater on the site is close to the surface, we make embankments of 25-30 cm. We dig more and deeper holes for planting, the size of the roots of the seedling. We take into account the fact that the plant will be in one place for several years, the bush will grow not only in height, but also in width.

The distance between the pits, depending on the variety, is 40-70 cm. At the bottom we pour a nutrient substrate, a small hill. If there is no humus, granular complex fertilizer is added to the soil.

Before planting daylilies, seedlings must be soaked for 5-6 hours

We start planting by soaking the seedling, for 5-6 hours, in a highly diluted growth stimulator. Then we examine the plant well, cut out diseased and damaged roots with a pruner. We shorten their size by 1/3. Slices are treated with crushed activated carbon. Some gardeners recommend trimming the leaves as well. You can not do this. We lower the plant into the prepared pits, laying out the roots on the surface of the earth cone inside the pit. We sprinkle with earth. We water, in places where the earth has settled, add more and compact. If air spaces remain, the plant will rot.

If your daylily has been growing indoors as a houseplant for some time, wet it well. It is better to completely immerse the flower pot in a container of water. Then roll the earthen ball into the prepared hole. Sprinkle with earth on top. When planting, watch the growing point of the leaf basket. Do not fall asleep deeper than one or two centimeters. Deep planted plants do not grow well and may not flower.

Care of daylilies in the open field

Although it is claimed that daylilies do not require special care, it is still worth remembering that most of the hybrid varieties are bred in America, Australia, and France. The climatic conditions of these countries differ from those of Russia. For better adaptation and development of daylilies, it is necessary to create optimal conditions.

Watering flowers

The plant takes root in a new place for 1-1.5 months. The roots, during this period, use more moisture and nutrients not from the environment, but from their own reserves. To avoid stagnant water, rotting of the roots, watering should be carried out only after the top layer of the earth dries out.

Adult, flowering plants are watered under the root, plentifully. Moisture that gets on the petals damages the plants. When planting plants in sandy soil, the amount of watering is increased. With a lack of moisture, the leaves turn yellow.

It is necessary to feed daylilies with complex fertilizer

With proper preparation of the seedling and soil for planting, fertilizers will not be needed in the first year. Next spring, we carry out the first top dressing, preferably with a complex fertilizer, with a large amount of nitrogen, for the growth of leaves and peduncles. And phosphorus for better formation of the root system.

During the period of budding and flowering, we add potassium for brighter and more lush flowering and disease resistance. Daylilies respond well to organic fertilization. Flower growers specializing in the cultivation of daylilies have developed their own fertilizer application scheme over the years.

For novice garden flower lovers, it can be advised to use ready-made complex fertilizers, which are sold in large quantities in specialized stores.

Mulching

When growing daylilies, mulching is widely used to retain moisture in the soil and prepare plants for wintering. In the first case, in the spring, when the soil warms up well, after abundant watering, mulch is poured around the plant from rotted humus, bark and needles (fallen) coniferous plants, peat.

Mulch serves more than just retaining moisture., but also protects the roots from heat, does not allow weeds to develop. When spreading the mulch, the root zone is left open. Mulching improves soil structure, enriches with minerals, creates a breathable layer. Allows roots to develop better.

During winter mulching, plants prepared for wintering are covered with a layer of mulch of at least 30 cm. This is most important for young seedlings and varietal plants during their adaptation period. Mulching will protect plants from frost and save them from sudden temperature fluctuations.

In winters with little snow, it will not let the roots freeze. We lay out the mulch after the establishment of cold weather, in late October, early November. We remove in early spring so that the rhizomes do not begin to rot.

Whether or not to prune daylilies is a moot point.

Whether to prune leaves in autumn or not is a rhetorical question. Some believe that uncut leaves help the plant during wintering, provide additional shelter. Their opponents are categorically in favor of cutting the foliage. This will exclude the possibility of wintering in them of harmful insects. If you decide to trim the leaves, do so as late as possible, and try not to shorten the length by more than two-thirds of the length.

Care after flowering

The flowering period of daylilies is long and often blooming fall under the first snow. If the autumn is long and warm, the plants have time to bloom. Seed pods mature, plants prepare for a dormant period. At this time, granular fertilizer can be applied. It is scattered over the surface and shallowly buried in the ground. Organic fertilizers are also applied before winter. In semi-evergreen species, the dead aerial part is removed. Plants mulch.

Daylily propagation methods

Daylilies can be propagated in two ways.

seeds

Daylilies reproduce both by dividing the bush and by seeds.

Seeds are used only in breeding. This is due to many reasons. Seeds ripen in different varieties from 40 to 80 days. They are tied very badly, only with artificial pollination.

Many varieties of daylilies are sterile and never form seeds. Seeds definitely need stratification. Peduncles with seed pods are cut and placed in water for ripening. They are planted in the soil in autumn or early spring, in grooves no more than 2 cm deep. Seedlings are not transplanted until a normal bush is formed. Flowering occurs at 4-6 years.

By dividing the bush

It is this method that all flower growers use. How is the timing of the division of the bush determined? If the plant is in one place for more than five years, flowering has become less abundant, and the number of peduncles has decreased. The bush has lost its decorative effect and the flowers have become smaller - it's time to start transplanting and propagating.

In order not to damage the plant, the bush is dug around the perimeter and pulled out with a clod of earth. Then it is immersed in a container with water or the earth is washed out from the roots with a stream of water. The aerial part consists of several fan-shaped rosettes of leaves. With loosening movements, the bush is easily divided into separate parts. If the bush cannot be divided, it is cut. The incision sites are treated to avoid decay. The roots are shortened and plants are planted in prepared pits.

Pests, daylily diseases and control methods

To combat root mites, you can use Aktofit

Many scientists note that when breeding new varieties of daylilies, attention is paid to the shape of flowers, their color, and the duration of flowering. At the same time, the protective properties of the plant suffer. If in the early mentions of daylilies it was written that the plant is resistant to pests and diseases, now this statement is not so clear. Environmental degradation also plays a role in this.

Slugs can cause irreparable damage to daylilies

• Medvedka. Very prolific, aggressive insect. It feeds on the pulp of the roots, eats the root collars and destroys the sown seeds. Dies with deep loosening of the soil, the use of special preparations Medvedtoks, Thunder, Aktara.
• Nematodes. They are dangerous because they damage the daylily root and are not immediately noticeable. Cells are destroyed, the affected tissue becomes brown, dies. The nematode is also dangerous as a carrier of infectious and viral diseases. The fight consists in preventive measures, processing of planting material and the use of special means.

Diseases

Daylilies are susceptible to fungal diseases

Daylilies are affected by the following types of diseases.

• Fungal diseases. Pathogenic fungi. Plants become infected with fungal spores that live in the ground or come from a diseased plant. Fungal diseases include Soft root rot, Opening root rot, Iris spot, Cercosporosis, Daylily rust and others. The diseased plant, in order to avoid further infection, is destroyed.
• Viral diseases are transmitted through dirty garden tools, contaminated water, and are carried by pests. Symptoms can vary. Only a specialist can accurately determine the disease. A distinctive feature of viruses is icterus and mosaic. If characteristic “patterns” appear on the plants, then it is affected by the virus. If a plant is infected with a virus, it cannot be completely cured; when the bush is divided, all plants obtained from it will be infected.
• Bacterioses. Various diseases (local and general) that develop in a plant due to bacteria that have got inside through damage. With local bacterioses, only parts of daylilies are damaged, the flower does not die. With general bacterioses, the infection spreads throughout the plant through the channels of juice movement, leading to its death. Signs of the disease: growths, burns, necrosis, wilting.

Many daylily diseases are easier to prevent than to treat.

Modern gardens and parks cannot be imagined without daylilies. Tall varieties are better combined with cereals and plants with textured foliage. Low-growing daylilies with small and medium flowers are indispensable for decorating borders. For patios, dwarfs are more suitable, many of which bloom repeatedly. Daylilies are very self-sufficient flowers. They look equally good in compositions with other plants, they look peculiar and unique in flower beds made of daylilies alone.

Daylilies count very well with many plants and flowers in the garden.

The daylily is a large flower full of charm and fragrance. Daylilies have remained an important symbol in art and religion for centuries. In Chinese culture, these flowers symbolize good luck and lasting love.

Daylily is considered a hardy crop that requires attention and care. These majestic flowers cannot leave indifferent any flower grower. In order to admire and admire these magnificent flowers, you need to know how to properly care for and plant them. Growing flowers is not so difficult if you follow certain rules. In order for flowers to please you every year, it is necessary to create all favorable conditions for their growth and development.

Cultivation of daylily is considered an urgent issue today, as the number of lovers of this fragrant flower is increasing every day. This paper presents the main points on the care and planting of a daylily, from which it is quite clear that you can grow such a flower yourself.

Daylily breeding has come a long way in 30 years. The catalog contains about 70 thousand items and their descriptions. Varieties of daylilies are classified according to some properties:

• growing season;
• aroma;
• flowering time;
• coloring.

Adorable daylilies varieties:

• Chang Dinesti is coral pink with peach trim. Flowers of this variety change color depending on weather conditions;
• Paula Dask has a pink shade with a cream border;
• Robin Lee is pink-red with white trim.

Selecting a landing site

If you are planning to get a daylily, first take care of the place to plant it. Varieties of yellow and white daylilies require special attention. To comply with all the rules for planting and cultivating these flowers, preference is given to places with sunny access.

Dark red flowers prefer partial shading. It is dark shades that better absorb heat and consume sunlight, and because of this, they lose their color early. A distinctive feature of all daylilies is the presence of a pale bordering strip on the petals. This effect gives charm and charm to these wonderful plants. In regions with hot summers, flowers of bright colors may change color, that is, turn pale. To maintain a rich color, you need to provide good watering to the daylily.

When choosing a landing site, the following conditions must be considered:

1. It is not necessary to plant flowers next to trees and shrubs, as the daylily will require enough moisture, thereby maintaining competition from plantings.
2. The presence of wind does not frighten these flowers, they calmly endure windy weather, because they have flexible and elastic stems. Therefore, flower growers often advise daylilies for growing in windy regions.
3. These plants should be planted in light, organic-rich soil. On soils with a heavy structure (loam), these plants are not fully realized, therefore, such soil must be lightened through the use of sand and compost. The soil environment for daylilies should be in the range of 6.5-7.0 units, that is, a neutral or slightly acidic environment.
4. Daylilies do not tolerate stagnant water, so when choosing a place, you need to pay attention to this indicator - in no case should they be planted in recesses.

After buying plants, you need to carefully examine them and remove non-living roots. The leaves are cut about ten centimeters above the root. To prevent diseases, it is best to soak daylily roots in a weak solution of nutrients for a period of 5 to 24 hours at a temperature of 28-30 degrees Celsius.

The following preparations are used for soaking the roots:

• solution "Kornevin";
• 0.0015% solution of indolylbutyric acid;
• heteroauxin;
• willow infusion, for its preparation, chopped willow branches are soaked in water for a period of two days. Such an infusion provokes daylily roots to germinate.

When dividing the roots, damage can form, a fungicide is used to heal them.

Daylily planting

For daylilies of planting and care in the open field, you need to prepare a recess corresponding to the size of the roots. A small tubercle is made in the center of the hole, on which the roots are laid out. Then we fall asleep with earth to the level of the root collar with a gradual compaction of the soil. The root neck cannot be covered with earth. As the earth is added to the hole, watering is carried out, after full backfilling and planting, the plant is watered abundantly.

Experienced flower growers claim that when the root neck is deepened, the daylily can rot and die.

Important: Daylily is usually planted for several years (3-4 years or more). Most often this is done in September, sometimes in August.

In some cases, for impatient gardeners, it is allowed to plant a flower in the spring or summer, then it is necessary to ensure daily watering for 10 days. After that, you need to feed with mineral and organic preparations. The use of fertilizers provokes the rapid formation of a generative bud, which ensures abundant flowering of the plant.

When planting in autumn, the soil surface around the daylily must be mulched with sawdust or humus and soil moisture must be regulated. If the autumn turned out to be dry, then the plants should be watered periodically.

Ways to irrigate daylilies

This plant can withstand drought for a long time, it acquired this property due to the structure and potential of the root system. But still, it must be remembered that regular and abundant watering provokes the ripening of large and bright daylily buds.

During the growing season, the daylily should be watered about once a week. But the timing, of course, depends on the climatic conditions of the region and the age of the plant. If the climate of the area is very dry, then watering should be regulated in relation to soil indicators.

You should not put much hope on rain, to check the impregnation of the soil with moisture after rain, you should check the soil to a depth of 10 centimeters: if there is enough moisture, then the irrigation process can be rejected for a while. Daylily requires regular and abundant watering, the root zone of the plant must be saturated with moisture to a depth of about 50 cm or more.

On sandy soils, additional watering is often required, since such a structure does not retain moisture well. Mulch helps a lot to keep the moisture in. Sawdust, humus or peat are most often used as mulch.

During the hot summer months, watering is recommended in the evening. Watering should be carried out directly under the daylily bush, watering by spraying can lead to uneven color of the buds. Recently, the use of drip irrigation has become relevant. This type of irrigation provides a uniform and regular distribution of moisture over the soil. For daylily, it is quite possible to use sprinkling, but it is better to use it after flowering.

Like any other plant, the lily flower does not tolerate waterlogging, moreover, high humidity often provokes the appearance of pests and diseases. Irrigation volumes depend on the age category and size of the bush.

Modern breeding is aimed at improving the appearance of the flower and developing its resistance and adaptation to adverse conditions. The main goal of breeders is to breed varieties that are resistant to diseases and pests, low temperatures and drought resistance.

Important: It is vital for the daylily to ensure regular watering. This aspect deserves special attention during periods of hot summer months.

Fertilization

This plant is very demanding on the introduction of nutrients and top dressing. Competent and timely application of a normalized dosage of fertilizers ensures the activation of growth processes and the development of generative flowers. The positive effect of nitrogen-containing fertilizers affects the growth and development of plants.

Of course, for a rational calculation of the consumed elements, it is necessary to take into account the structure of the soil. In the event of an overabundance or lack of trace elements, the plant may die, so this issue should be approached with certain knowledge.

To understand this issue, consider the properties of chemical elements. Chemicals are divided into: mineralized and non-mineralized. From non-mineral we know - hydrogen, oxygen, carbon. Such substances are found in large volumes in the air and water spheres. The atmosphere and water substrate plus solar energy are the catalysts for photosynthesis.

Minerals are of two types:

1. Nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium. Phosphorus is needed for the development of the root system, potassium optimizes the processes in the aerial part of the plant.
2. Calcium, magnesium, sulfur. Magnesium is a component of chlorophyll, sulfur is involved in redox processes, calcium is a component of pectin substances.

For the normal development of daylilies, trace elements are needed that ensure growth. Trace elements include: molybdenum, boron, zinc, iron, copper.

Before fertilizing, it is necessary to accurately determine the acidity of the soil, this will prevent an imbalance in the nutrition of daylilies. For these colors, neutral pH values ​​\u200b\u200bare beneficial acidity.

When using fertilizers, it is necessary to adhere to the following approximate doses and terms of application:

• in April, it is possible to apply complex mineral fertilizers in the proportion of 1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water. One of the popular fertilizers of this type is nitroammophoska;
• in May, urea and saltpeter are often used. Such fertilizers can simply be scattered under the bushes, trying to prevent contact with the vegetative organs of the plant. Also, to stimulate growth processes at this time, magnesium sulfate can be added, which enriches the lily flower with a rich green ground mass;
• in June, buds form at the daylily, and after that fragrant flowers appear, so during this period it will be optimal to use bird droppings, mullein or compost. After applying these fertilizers, the daylily will delight you with bright and fragrant flowers;
• in August, fertilizers are usually used with the expectation of further work, that is, they will have a positive effect on the formation of generative buds next year. A good result shows nitroammophoska.

During the growing season, once every 14 days, you can use solutions of organic substances - mullein, bird droppings in doses of 1 liter per 10 liters of water.

Important: Immediately after the incorporation of fertilizers, it is necessary to carry out abundant watering of the soil.

Approximate dosage calculations for daylily fertilizers: a solution of urea and nitroammophoska is prepared in the proportion of one tablespoon per 10 liters of water, sometimes substances that stimulate growth are added to the solutions.

Mulching

A large number of varieties of daylilies are adapted for the southern regions, so mulching is simply necessary for them. Mulching has a positive effect on:

• regulation of soil moisture;
• exclusion of depletion of the plant;
• reducing the amount of weeds;
• protect the soil from temperature fluctuations.

Sawdust, peat, humus are often used as natural mulch. This type of mulch additionally provides soil enrichment with organic fertilizers, increases air permeability and optimizes moisture content.

Mulching is of two types:

• cosmetic provides the aesthetics of the appearance of the soil surface. Usually the cosmetic layer of mulch is about 3 centimeters;
• functional mulching is laid in a layer of about 10 centimeters.

In severe winter conditions, the mulch is laid in a layer of 5 cm, the main components of such mulch are straw, needles, and leaves. The main purpose of such mulching is to preserve the soil from freezing.

In summer, mulch is laid to protect the soil from drying out and reduce the growth of weeds.

Daylily reproduction

Daylily reproduces in several ways:

1. Reproduction by layering, this method guarantees the preservation of all varietal characteristics of the parents. Layers appear from dormant buds located in the axils of the leaf plate.
2. Vegetative propagation occurs by dividing the bushes. This method is good because all the useful properties of colors are transferred. Otherwise, such reproduction occurs with the help of division. This process is carried out either in early spring, for example, in May, when the leaf blades grow by 10 centimeters, or in August.
3. Propagation by seeds is most often used in the work of breeders to develop new varieties.
4. meristem reproduction.

The division of the bushes contains the following steps:

• carrying out separation. The division is carried out by hand or with a knife.
• washing under the pressure of water;
• digging a bush;

Diseases and pests

Most often, these plants are affected by root rot, various types of spotting, rust and fusarium.

Preventive measures in the fight against diseases are the use of fungicides.

If the flower is already affected by the disease, it should be immediately dug up, and the rhizomes should be poured with a solution of potassium permanganate for 4 hours, after which the rhizomes should be dried and planted elsewhere.

Among the pests most often attack daylilies:

• thrips attack daylily bushes during early spring (April-May). To destroy these pests, bushes should be burned, and the soil should be treated with insecticides;
• lily midges live in flower buds;
• spider mites;
• slugs
• bedbugs.

The role of flowers in landscape design

Daylilies fit perfectly into all design compositions on the flower garden. The main thing to consider is the combination of color compositions, but since the daylily has a wide variety of colors, such a question disappears by itself.

This plant is perfect for the following shrubs: barberry, elderberry, mock orange, privet.

The Latin name of Daylily - Hemerocallis comes from the Greek words ‘hemera’ - day and ‘kallos’ - beauty, which is associated with the short flowering period of most species, each flower usually blooms for one day. Less common daylily names are - Krasodnev, by analogy with Latin, and the transcription of the Latin name - Hemerocallis. The genus Daylilies has about 20 species, distributed mainly in eastern Asia, less often in Europe. Daylilies belong to the lily family (according to the new classification, this is a subfamily of the Daylilies, the Xantorreaceae family).

Daylily in the Botanical Garden of Madrid. © M a n u e l Content:

Daylily Description

Peduncle height at tall daylilies- 1-1.5 m. They successfully perform the “position” of a tapeworm against the background of a velvet lawn, visually unite plant compositions around them in various styles (nature garden, country, coastal mixborders), emphasizing the merits of loosestrife, meadowsweet, geleniums, marsh irises, black cohosh and geraniums. In the front flower beds, they are harmoniously combined with phlox, astilbe, lilies and luxurious decorative leafy crops.

Medium-sized daylilies good in garden compositions where expressive "fountains" of foliage are required.

miniature daylilies, with flower stalks no higher than 30-40 cm, with not large, but numerous flowers, suitable for creating borders and flower beds along the paths. They are organic both at the foot of a rocky hill and in rockeries.

There are about fifty shades and countless combinations in the palette of daylilies. Orchid, clove, oyster, creamy, caramel - there are no shades! But there is no snow-white color yet, all “whites” have a yellow or greenish tint at the base.

Daylily flower blooms one - rarely two days. Therefore, breeders achieve the most abundant flowering, increasing the number of peduncles and buds. The flowering of varieties is usually extended for a month, since more than 30 buds sequentially open on each peduncle. Varieties with flowers that do not close at least a full day - a few, they are called varieties of "long flowering" and are not very diverse in colors.

For the Russian climate, it is better to choose varieties with an early and medium flowering period, which develop faster and have time to prepare well for wintering.

Tall daylily. © Alo Konsen

Daylily planting

Planting material is usually soaked for several hours in growth stimulants (for example, in humate, epin, zircon, etc.). Bad dried and rotten roots are removed. The leaves are cut to a length of 15 cm. Pruning of roots and leaves is necessary in order to stimulate the growth of new ones. Daylilies tolerate drying roots well, so they usually reach well in postal parcels from online stores. Also, freshly dug out daylilies can lie for 2-3 weeks in a dark place until a place is prepared for them to plant them. However, you can temporarily dig the roots into wet sand.

The planting hole for each bush is carefully prepared, because the plant is planted for many years. Over time, a bush with a diameter of 50-70 cm in diameter grows from one fan of annual growth. Think about this when preparing your seat.

It is enough to dig a hole 30 cm deep, pour a peat-humus mixture into it with a mound, add potassium-phosphorus fertilizer, and spread the roots of the planted plant along this mound. The root neck should not be very deep (no more than 2.5 cm), otherwise the daylily will not bloom well. Then the roots are sprinkled with fertile soil, which is well compacted and watered. In order to have fewer problems with watering daylilies, the ground around them is mulched with peat or compost. Mulching improves the permeability of the soil, helps retain moisture during drought, and also prevents the soil in the root zone from overheating.

Daylilies can be planted anywhere. They look good both in open places in single plantings, and in flower beds, as solitary plants. In flower beds with daylilies, the latter will add lightness and delicacy to the composition.

Daylilies are among the most disease-resistant perennials. In addition, they have virtually no pests. Therefore, recently the daylily has become a very popular plant among amateur flower growers for its beauty, variety of color variations, unpretentiousness.

Collection of daylilies. © lezumbalaberenjena

Features of growing daylily

Light

At home, in the countries of East Asia and the Far East, daylilies grow on the outskirts of forests, among bushes. Therefore, very often in the recommendations for growing daylilies, you can read that it is planted in partial shade. It should be remembered that nurseries specializing in daylilies are located mainly in the USA, France, and Australia. If we recall the climatic conditions of these countries, it becomes clear why it is recommended to plant daylilies in partial shade: they will fade very quickly in the bright scorching sun. In our strip in partial shade, they simply do not gain enough heat to open their flower and fill it with colors.

Daylily is a very plastic plant; it can grow in shade, partial shade, but only in a well-lit area will its flowering be massive and plentiful. This statement is especially true for hybrid varieties. Only under the bright sun does the daylily flower open completely, and only in dry sunny weather does the color of the flower appear in full. In the shade, as on an overcast day, the daylily flower may not open at all.

Temperature

Daylilies wake up early, as soon as the soil thaws and the temperature is above zero at night. This usually happens in mid-April. Daylilies come out from under the snow with overwintered leaves (winter), which began to grow back in the fall of last year. These happen if the snow has fallen to the ground before frost. Otherwise, the winter dies in the fall. Spring frosts can also damage the winter, but this is not of great importance, it only delays the development of plants somewhat.

In autumn, at the first frost (-1 ... -3 ° C), the leaves lose their turgor, lie down and do not recover. Sometimes it happens so early that in most varieties the leaves do not have time to turn yellow. Lowering the temperature in summer, during flowering, has a bad effect on the quality of the flowers. They become smaller, do not open completely, are half-open for several days and fade. The bloom is fading.

The period of winter dormancy for daylilies is very short, 1.5-2 months. In the conditions of our summer, they do not have time to completely finish the growing season. Daylily leaves usually die due to frost, and very rarely there is a natural death of the leaves in the fall. After pruning such leaves, if warm weather is restored, daylilies begin to grow again, young leaves can reach a height of 15-20 cm.

In the literature and among amateurs, the issue of evergreen and semi-evergreen daylilies is often discussed. Of the natural species, only one daylily belongs to the evergreen - orange (Hemerocallis aurantiaca). In the conditions of Moscow, he does not hibernate. As you know, even these varieties do not have time to complete the natural annual cycle of development before frost and go into winter with green leaves.

True, when the variegated form of Brown-yellow Daylily (Hemerocallis fulva) is kept in the greenhouse, when the temperature drops to +4 ... +20 ° C in winter, it slows down its growth, but does not shed its leaves down to sub-zero temperatures. So, in February, when the temperature in the greenhouse was raised again, it immediately began to grow. It should be noted that the brown-yellow daylily does not belong to the evergreen, but like all daylilies, it has a very short dormant period. Daylilies winter well under the snow.

Watering

A powerful root system allows the daylily to get moisture from the depths and not be afraid of surface drying out of the soil. The best conditions for growing daylilies can be considered when the top layer of soil at the level of development of the rosette of leaves is dry, and at a depth of 20-30 cm, where the suction roots are located, it is wet. This is achieved by mulching the soil surface between the bushes with dry peat or wood chips.

The soil

Ordinary garden soils are quite suitable for growing daylilies. Poor sod-podzolic soils must be enriched with compost with the addition of sand, peat and mineral fertilizers. On heavy clay soils, moisture stagnation occurs, and in cold weather, rotting of the roots and the development of fungal diseases can begin. Sandy soils that do not retain moisture will not be able to provide plants with enough water and nutrition. Daylilies will survive, but will be weak, oppressed.

Daylily ‘Chorus Line’. © F. D. Richards

Daylily reproduction

seed way

When growing plants from seeds, varietal characteristics are not preserved. Therefore, seed reproduction is used in breeding work and for reproduction of natural daylily species. But even in this case, one must be extremely careful, since daylilies easily cross-pollinate among themselves and give interspecific hybrids. This phenomenon is often observed in nature, where several species bloom at a close distance at the same time.

However, another phenomenon is also observed in the culture: daylilies do not set seeds. Flowering is abundant, but the seeds are tied only on a few bushes. This may be due to the lack of necessary insects for their pollination. Therefore, artificial pollination is used to obtain seeds. Daylily seeds quickly lose their germination.

They should be sown freshly harvested before winter or next spring. When spring sowing, the seeds should be stratified at a temperature of 2-4 ° C for 1.5-2 months. The seeds are large in size, and they can be sown in a cold greenhouse or garden bed to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. In this case, daylilies germinate quickly and give friendly seedlings. Plants grown from seeds bloom in the 2-3rd year. The first flowering is weak.

Vegetative way

The vegetative method is used to propagate varieties and hybrids. Allows you to save all the signs of the mother plant. The main method of vegetative propagation is the division of the bush.

Daylilies grow quickly. Reducing the number of flowers or their quality is a signal that the time has come to divide the curtain.

The best time for dividing a daylily is the spring regrowth of leaves. In central Russia, this is the end of April - the beginning of May. Daylilies usually come out from under the snow with winter crops, which are well preserved under the snow. When the winter begins to grow, this is a signal to start transplanting. The earlier the bush is divided, the less the plant is injured. At later transplantation dates, plants are more difficult to take root and may not bloom that year.

For reproduction, it is supposed to use young bushes no older than 5-6 years. In loose bush varieties, bushes can be divided by hand into sections of the required size. Dense bush varieties cannot be divided by hand. You have to use a strong knife with a wide blade or a shovel. Without sufficient experience, when dividing a bush, you can damage the roots or rosettes of leaves at the base, as they are very brittle.

In practice, the gardener often has to divide older bushes, because daylilies, with sufficient care, can grow in one place for a long time (10-15 years). When it comes time to divide such a bush, problems arise. Powerful suction roots went deep into the soil, the bush grew in breadth by 40-50 cm, and young roots are located only along the periphery.

Delenki from the peripheral part of the bush quickly take root and gain strength. Delenki from the middle part of the bush, without young roots, require some preparation before planting: dead, rotten parts of the roots are cut out, cuts are updated on broken ones, long roots are shortened to stimulate the formation of new roots. These delenki require growing for 1-2 years in the beds, and only after that they are planted in a permanent place. Loose bush varieties can be propagated without digging out the main bush, but only by separating the daughter rosettes that have formed on long stolons.

Daylilies can also be divided in late August-early September, but so that the plants have time to root.

There is another way to divide a daylily without digging up a bush; it is easier to use on loose bush varieties. With certain skills, it is also used on dense bush varieties. This operation is carried out either in spring, when the leaves are just beginning to grow, or in August, when the leaves are cut so that each rosette of leaves is visible. A well-sharpened shovel is placed vertically on a conditionally planned dividing line and a part of the bush is cut off with a sharp pressure of the foot. Then the cut off part is cut from below and removed.

Do not be afraid to cut the roots from below. According to the rules, in any case, they must be shortened before landing. But with the lateral, young roots must be handled with care. Cut points can be sprinkled with crushed coal or ash. The resulting hole is covered with dry earth and properly compacted. In order to avoid rotting, this bush is not watered at first.

At the end of flowering on the peduncles of some varieties, single rosettes of shortened leaves appear from sleeping buds. On some peduncles there can be from 2 to 5. These rosettes can be used for cuttings. Stem cuttings are carefully cut or broken off from the stem. It is possible to separate the stalk with a stem segment 2-4 cm long. The leaves on the stalk are shortened by one third of the length. Prepared cuttings are planted in beds or a cold greenhouse. At first, the cuttings are shaded and periodically sprayed, and after rooting, they are watered regularly. The percentage of rooting cuttings is high - 80-90%.

daylily types

daylily orange(Hemerocallis aurantiaca) - apparently, is a cultural clone (possibly of hybrid origin), close to H. fulva. Self-sterile, but quite widely used in hybridization, is the source for a number of varieties.

Orange daylily flower. © Uleli

The rhizome is compact. The leaves are dark green, hard, 2.5-3 cm wide, rather sharply curved, winter green. Peduncles are strong, slightly ascending, branched at the top, up to 100 cm tall, significantly exceeding the leaves. The flowers are somewhat asymmetrical, up to 12 cm in diameter, orange in the center, with a brownish-red tinge on the entire inner surface of the perianth.
Blooms in mid-summer. Type of flowering day; there is no aroma.

(Hemerocallis citrina) is the most original of all daylilies. It has a nocturnal type of flowering. But this does not in any way reduce its decorative effect, rather the opposite. The long elongated shape of the flower resembles a white lily flower. But the daylily flower is lemon yellow and more graceful. The lemon-yellow daylily is found only in areas of Central China in forest floodplain meadows, along river valleys, meadow slopes, sometimes in upland meadows, dry glades, along the outskirts of pine and birch forests. It has been cultivated in China since ancient times.

Daylily lemon yellow. © Pryma

(Hemerocallis middendorffii) - grows in Northeast China, Korea and Northern Japan. We meet in the Far East, on the Amur and in Manchuria. Prefers meadow slopes, clearings and edges of deciduous forests, climbs into bushes. The Chinese still use this type of daylily as a food plant - they boil the flowers together with millet. Named after a Russian botanist of the 19th century. A. F. Middendorf.

Daylily Middendorff. © Algirdas

Another early blooming daylily. It has a thick oblique rhizome and fragile cylindrical root lobes. The leaves are very narrow (1-1.8 cm), the outer ones are somewhat wider (2-2.5 cm), all strongly drooping. At the base of the leaves, fibrous remnants of last year's dead leaves are visible.

Peduncles up to 80 cm high, somewhat rise above the leaves. The flowers are collected in a dense few-flowered apical inflorescence, fragrant (with an unpleasant odor), bright orange, 11 cm in diameter, 9 cm long. The inner perianth lobes are wider (1.5-2.1 cm), flat, rejected at the apex, the edge of the lobes is membranous. The first flowers sometimes appear in mid-May. Blooms for 20 days. It sometimes blooms again in autumn.

(Hemerocallis minor) - widely distributed in Japan, Korea, Northern China, Mongolia. In our country, it is found in Eastern and Western Siberia, in the Far East. The species easily adapts to various growing conditions; it is found in water meadows and along mountain slopes, in areas with sandy soil and in forest clearings.

Daylily small. © Ezokisuge

Otherwise called "small wolf locust". Compared to other daylilies, it forms small graceful bushes up to 60 cm tall. The leaves are narrow (0.7-1 cm), drooping in a cascade to the ground. Peduncles branched, rise above the leaves. Inflorescences few-flowered (1-5), but sometimes up to 15 flowers - in this case, two flowers open at the same time. The flowers are small (7-9 cm in diameter), wide open, plain, light yellow, with a pleasant strong aroma. The buds are red-brown. Blooms in late May - early June, mass flowering - in June. Blooms for about 30 days. Fruiting.

daylily use

The possibilities of using a daylily are practically unlimited. This plant will find a worthy place for itself everywhere, it will decorate any flower garden, any site, whether it is a very small courtyard or a large park. Daylily can be planted in large groups or single specimens on the lawn. In this case, groups can be selected from one variety, from different varieties of the same color or from a mixture of different colors. In this case, the same plant will look strict, majestic or fun, mischievous.

Daylilies planted in small groups against the background of coniferous or deciduous trees and shrubs look good. Here it is important to choose the ratio of the color of the foliage of tree species and the color of daylily flowers. Against a dark background, yellow-flowered daylilies stand out well, they can be planted in the background. Dark-flowered varieties are planted only near. A group of some dark varieties will look gloomy. Single bushes or small groups of daylilies are planted with other perennials and annuals. This takes into account not only the decorative effect of the daylily during flowering, but also the color of its leaves, the appearance of the whole plant.

From the daylily, you can create beautiful borders. To do this, select dense-bush varieties that do not give long layers, and are the same in height of the bush, excluding peduncles. A dense border is obtained from varieties whose flower stalks only slightly rise above the leaves. Low-growing varieties and species, as well as small-flowered daylilies, look good next to the stones on the hill. They look very natural and on the banks of the pond or along the river. But this is not limited to the use of daylilies. They can be planted in containers, included in the range of winter gardens.

Daylilies stand well in the cut, while all the buds open. But still they are used mainly for ceremonial bouquets at celebrations, when a bouquet is needed for one evening. Dry daylily boxes are good in winter bouquets.

Daylily buds in Chinese cuisine are used for food: for stewing with meat, making soups and canning. Large buds are selected 2-3 days before their dissolution.

Daylily border. © springhillnursery

Daylily diseases and pests

thrips. This insect, very small, - an adult - a little more than a millimeter, and the larvae are even smaller, pale yellow in color, almost indistinguishable with the naked eye. They hibernate in the ground, in the roots, and in spring, when the temperature rises to 10-12 degrees above zero, thrips begin their destructive activity. They climb the leaves of the daylily, and when the buds appear, they penetrate into them and suck the juice from both the leaves and the petals, mercilessly deforming them.

With the onset of autumn, thrips leave the flowers and with the first frosts go to hibernate in the roots. A surge in the abundance of this pest is always timed to hot and dry summers, when daylily blooms could be most impressive.

Wrestling. If a thrips lesion is detected, it is best to cut the damaged peduncle under the root and burn it. If the leaves are also damaged, then do the same with them. In autumn and spring, treat the ground around the bush with an insecticide. Even the simplest Intavir helps, although newer drugs give better results. Naturally, do not leave plant residues in the flower beds - the remaining thrips can winter there.

lily mosquito. The adult lays its eggs in buds. The hatched larva begins to feed inside the bud, spoiling and deforming it. Visually, the bud looks crooked, underdeveloped, paler than other buds not marked by the presence of this larva. Usually a negligible number of buds per plant is damaged. If they are found, the buds should be removed and burned.

root rot. In the spring, at the beginning of the growing season, when the time comes for the rapid growth of the aerial part of the plant, this growth stops, the leaves that have already appeared by this time turn yellow, become brittle, and when you try to pull them slightly, they are easily pulled out of the ground.

Wrestling. Dig up the plant, cut out all diseased parts with a sharp knife, then rinse in a pink solution of potassium permanganate KMgO4. Treat the cut sites with any fungicide, and dry. Dry well, for two days, then plant back in the ground, of course, in another place. Daylilies should not be planted in the previous place for at least a year. Of course, you should not expect flowering from such a daylily in the next couple of years.

daylily rust a terrible fungal disease, not yet known in our country. One of its intermediate hosts (rust has a very complex, multi-stage development cycle) is patrinia, a relative of our valerian.

The beauty of these plants deserves the attention of any gardener! We wish you success in growing daylilies!

Daylily is native to East Asia. This plant has been known to mankind since ancient times, but for the first time science started talking about the daylily in 1753. The Swedish researcher Carl Linnaeus named the plant "Hemerokallis", combining two Greek words: "hemera" (day, day) and "callos" (beauty). This name meant that the beauty of the plant lives only one day.

Not only daylily cultivars are famous for their amazing beauty, but also the "savages" that grow in the wild. Daylily flowers are extremely unpretentious, so much so that even flower growers themselves call it a plant of a lazy gardener.

Thanks to the efforts of American and Australian breeders, the daylily has literally been at the "peak of fashion" in recent years. Despite the fact that the new plant species turned out to be more "capricious", their incredible beauty compensates for the time and effort spent.

Did you know? The great popularity of the daylily among gardeners around the world has contributed to the breeding of hybrid varieties. This happened in the first half of the 20th century thanks to the efforts of the famous American botanist Earl Stout.

When to plant daylilies

Daylilies are very demanding plants, their planting and care in the open field are of interest to both beginners and experienced gardeners.

The main advantage of the daylily is the time of its planting in the ground. It is very long and covers the period from early spring to late autumn. The choice of the most favorable time for planting a daylily directly depends on the climatic zone, and this fact should not be overlooked.

If your latitudes are distinguished by the early and rapid onset of winter, then the daylily, which was planted in the fall, may not have time to take root before the first frost and simply die. On average, this plant takes a month for reliable rooting. If you stop at garden forms with an early or medium flowering period, then even in the regions far from the south, the daylily planted by you will have time to fully prepare for the winter period.

Important! According to experienced gardeners, the most suitable time for planting a daylily in the middle lane is the last months of spring and summer - May and August.

Planting in autumn

How to plant a daylily in the autumn? Planting a daylily is no different from planting any other plant. To do this, you need to dig a hole 30 cm deep. Then carefully place the roots of the plant in it and bury it with earth to the root neck, after which be sure to water it.

When planting in the fall, do not forget to cover the daylily with straw or hill it with earth along with leaf humus. This will reliably protect the plant from cold weather and excessive moisture getting into the roots.

Planting in the spring

Daylilies can be planted at the very beginning of spring, the main thing is that the soil is warm enough and frost does not occur. Of course, experienced gardeners know how to plant daylilies in the spring, but what about newbies?

The first thing to start with is the preparation of the landing pit. Assume that the plant will stay in this place for at least 5 years, during which it will continuously grow and increase in size. The daylily should not be cramped at the place of its landing. If the soil in your area is saturated with useful substances, then the hole for the daylily should be of such a size that the roots of the plant can easily fit in it. If the soil is dry and heavy, then the pit should be 2 times larger, and leaf humus or compost mixed with sand should be laid on its bottom. You do not know how to save the daylily until planting in the spring? Just wrap the cutting in newspaper, put it in the refrigerator, and it will keep perfectly until planting.

After the hole is prepared, form a small pyramid of soil at its bottom. Place a daylily seedling on top of it, and gently spread the roots down the sides of this pyramid. Sprinkle the hole with earth, at the same time lightly crush it with your hands and be sure to water it with water. After planting, the root neck of the plant should be in the ground at a depth of no more than 2-2.5 cm, if you do not follow this rule, then the daylily will not bloom well. Also remember that the distance between planted daylilies should be at least one meter.

Selecting a landing site

Daylily is a plant that loves sunny and well-lit places. You can break up an entire flower bed or plant daylilies along the paths, thus creating a bright and colorful carpet of "gramophone flowers". The peculiarity of the daylily is that the lighter the color of its petals, the more sunlight it can receive. All daylilies have a certain shade, and the leaves of a daylily planted in direct sunlight quickly turn white. Darker types of daylilies are best planted in light partial shade, because due to the bright sun, all the saturated colors of the petals will quickly fade and become less beautiful and attractive.

Lighting and temperature

As mentioned above, daylilies love lit places, but planting in direct sunlight should be avoided.

The growing season of the daylily begins quite early. This happens when the snow melts and the frost ends, when the temperature does not drop below 0°C at night. Usually the awakening of daylilies begins in mid-April. In autumn, night temperatures can drop to -3°C, which causes daylily leaves to wither. With early autumn frosts, the leaves of the flowers of the plant do not even have time to turn yellow and immediately wither. If the summer is cold, then the daylily blooms noticeably worse. The buds of the plant become small and do not open fully, or may not open at all, simply withering and falling off. High summer temperatures significantly shorten the flowering time of the daylily and burn the ends of its leaves.

What kind of soil does the daylily like?

The composition of the soil in which the daylily is grown does not play a big role for this crop. The plant is quite enough ordinary garden soil. If such soil is not too nutritious, then it can be easily fertilized with compost or various mineral compositions. As a rule, such compositions are sold in any flower or garden store. If the soil is too heavy and dense, then it can be slightly diluted with ordinary sand so that excessive moisture does not stagnate in it. The daylily can also grow in sand, but in this case it requires more frequent watering, since the water in such soil evaporates rather quickly.

How to plant a flower

Before you start planting a daylily, it must be lowered for a while into water with diluted growth stimulants. As such stimulants, drugs such as Zircon, Epin, Gumat, etc. are suitable.

Since the daylily is a perennial crop, the place for planting it should be selected and prepared with great care. This plant needs a fairly large amount of space in the flower bed. So, the hole for planting a daylily should be at least 30 cm deep. Also, it is necessary to first pour a peat-humus mixture into this hole, and then add a small amount of potassium-phosphorus fertilizer. After that, the daylily is carefully immersed in the hole. The plant should be planted to the level of its root collar. The entire remaining space of the hole should be sprinkled with garden soil, and then it must be compacted and watered thoroughly.

Important! If moisture is quickly absorbed, then this indicates that the soil was not compacted enough. In this case, simply add dry soil and compact the soil well.

How to water a daylily in a flower bed

Daylily is a plant that requires high-quality watering. With a lack of moisture, its flowering worsens significantly, and the buds become dull and small.

Particularly carefully watering rules should be observed during the growing season. The rate of moisture directly depends on the soil in which the daylily grows. In order for the daylily not to experience a moisture deficit, it is necessary to regularly monitor the soil around the stems - it should not dry out. For irrigation, it is preferable to use a large amount of water to moisten the soil to a depth of half a meter.

Daylilies need to be watered at least once a week. If the daylily grows in light sandy soil, then it should be watered more often, and it is also advisable to mulch the soil around the plant to slow down the evaporation of moisture.

Watering is best done in the evening, but before dark. It is not recommended to pour water directly on the buds and leaves of the plant, as this can stain them. Water the plant at the very root, using an ordinary garden watering can with a tip in the form of a wide nozzle - so the water jet will not wash the earth out from under the daylily root.

Top dressing and fertilizer daylily

Fertilizer and top dressing of the daylily is carried out after studying the composition of the soil, after which fertilizer is selected.

The main rule is that any fertilizers are applied no earlier than 2 weeks after the rooting of the plant. A young plant will need 2-3 top dressings per season, an older (5-6 years old) and abundantly flowering daylily needs 4-5 top dressings.

• In early spring, the daylily is fed with a full range of mineral fertilizers. The most common is NPK 16:16:16 (diluted in proportion: 1 tablespoon of granules per 10 liters of water).
• In April and May, in order to increase the intensity of growth, complex fertilizers containing a large amount of nitrogen (diammonium phosphate, ammophos, nitroammophosphate) are added.
• In summer, when the daylily blooms, it can be fed with organic matter. For this, a solution of mullein, chicken manure or fermented grass is suitable.
• At the end of flowering (beginning of autumn), fertilizer is carried out with sulfate with ash, or nitroammophos - it depends on the climate. Such top dressing has a positive effect on increasing the size of the flowers and their number in the new season.

How to properly propagate a plant

Daylily is a fairly unpretentious plant that can grow in one place without a transplant for 12-15 years. But this is undesirable, because after a certain time the flowers will become noticeably smaller, and the bush will take on a somewhat neglected look. And an old, overgrown bush after its transplantation can get sick and die. To avoid such problems, it is worth starting division and transplanting once every 5-6 years. Daylily can be propagated using several basic methods, each of which has both advantages and disadvantages.

Did you know? The Germans jokingly say that the daylily is a flower of intelligent lazy people, that is, gardeners who prefer beautiful plants that do not require long work to grow them.

seed way

Reproduction of daylilies by seeds is a fairly common method among gardeners. Daylily seeds can quickly lose their germination capacity, which is why freshly harvested seeds are best planted in the autumn. The sowing process is very simple and does not require any special tools and skills. Take the seeds and sow them in the prepared soil (fertilized and dug up), deepening them to a depth of 2 cm. If, for some reason, you did not have time for the autumn sowing, then it can be transferred to the spring, stratification of seeds (imitation of natural conditions for their awakening).

Vegetative methods

As already mentioned, the best time for daylily propagation is spring. In autumn, they can also be transplanted, but daylily cuttings should be large.

Reproduction of daylilies by cuttings begins with the selection of a heavily overgrown bush, which is time to replant. Dig up a bush and, using a pruner or garden shears, cut off all the green mass and leave stumps about 15-20 cm high. Trimming the greens is necessary in order to restore the balance between the greens and damaged roots.

Now you can start dividing the bush. This can be done using a pitchfork, dividing the daylily bush into small cuttings. If you don't have a fork handy, you can try doing it by hand. Then dig a hole along the length of the cutting and pour a small handful of potassium sulphate into the bottom of the hole, as daylilies need slightly acidic soil. Place the cutting in the hole to the level of the root neck, carefully sprinkle with earth, tamp, and then water it.

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