Sheathing of walls with clapboard on the crate. The subtleties of fastening eurolining How best to pull the lining to each other

For decorative finishing or leveling the ceiling surface in residential and non-residential premises, modern sheathing material is ideal - lining made of wood, plastic or MDF boards. The installation of the panels itself is not particularly difficult, but if you plan to do the work yourself, you need to know about all its subtleties. With what and how to nail the lining to a pre-prepared lath crate, which can be made of a wooden beam or a metal profile?

Installation of lining to a wooden crate

Installation of PVC panels to a metal profile

The principle of fastening decorative panels made of various materials is the same and is carried out in a certain sequence. But the main difference lies in the choice of fasteners, which are selected for a specific type of lining. Nails, self-tapping screws, kleimers (special staples) are mainly used. Ways of fastening lining

Getting started, you need to know how to properly nail the lining to the frame structure using a specific device:

• Nailing the lining with nails will require skill and skill. A neat appearance can only be achieved if the caps of the fasteners are invisible. To hide them in the grooves, you need a finisher, with which the nails are evenly recessed into the sheathing board. You can also drill holes for the leg of the nail with a thin drill to prevent splitting of the wood.

Fastening lining with nails

• Self-tapping screws and screws are suitable for fastening the plastic sheathing. The fastener is inserted into the top of the board, and the cap remains flush with the spike.

Fastening with clamps

• Kleimers are used when mounting lining of various types and thicknesses, so it is very important to choose the right fasteners for the height of the "tongue". The device is put on the groove of the board and screwed to the crate with self-tapping screws or nailed, as a result of which the facing board is not damaged, and the fastener itself remains invisible. Kleimers with a height of 1 / 1.5 / 2 mm are suitable for lining plastic or MDF, 3 and 4 mm for eurolining, 5 mm for wooden panels and 6-8 mm for a blockhouse. These are reliable and durable fasteners, as steel with galvanized anti-corrosion coating is used for their manufacture. This method is the most practical, because it is possible to dismantle and replace unusable panels.

Heavy lining is fastened in an open way. It is better to choose nails with a small hat, as they are driven into the board from the outside. But in this case, the aesthetic indicators of the decorative coating will suffer. The design of the lining allows you to fasten to the crate "sweat" - with a nail through the groove. The most convenient option is panels with an offset profile, where the lower protrusion of the groove is longer than the upper one.

The process of sheathing clapboard ceiling

When the work surface is prepared and the frame is installed in the form of a wooden or metal crate (from a profile), we can talk about how to nail the lining. The process takes place in the following sequence:

• The first board is installed in such a way that the side with the spike is directed towards the wall (corner). The location of the lining should be set strictly perpendicular to the crate. For this, a building level is required.
• After the first board is fastened with self-tapping screws, you can proceed with the installation of the second lining. Docking of two panels is carried out according to the tenon-groove principle. After alignment, the lining is fixed in the same way as the first.

This sequence is observed until the entire ceiling surface is sewn up with clapboard. At the final stage, the finished coating is formed with a plinth around the entire perimeter, which hides the cracks and edges of the trimmed lining.

Lining installation methods

Fastening the lining to the ceiling and walls is carried out in three main ways:

• Vertical mounting. Sheathing of the frame with clapboard is carried out from the wall. The board is attached to each lath of the crate using brackets, self-tapping screws (screws) or finishing nails with a small hat, located at a certain angle of inclination. If the crest of the board is not thick enough, then it is better to pre-drill the holes to avoid cracking. All fasteners are hidden by the next panel.
• The horizontal method involves fastening the lining with the ridge up, in this position no condensation will form inside the structure. When mounted from top to bottom, there are no visible gaps between the strips of the sheathing board. The first panel is mounted near the ceiling, after which the second one is inserted into the groove from below and fastened with nails or self-tapping screws. The final strip is cut to width and fixed in the groove of the previous one (a primitive nail puller is used for this). The lower part is closed with a plinth.
• diagonal mounting. The first board is located from the corner, followed by movement along the perimeter of the ceiling. The ends of the lining are cut at an angle according to the selected sketch. The most convenient option for fasteners is clamps that sit on screws.

Lining fastening methods

When the surfaces of the ceiling and walls are completely sewn up with clapboard, decorative elements must be used to seal the outer and inner corners. Special corners are nailed. The combined options for the location of the lining look original, which allows you to give the interior individuality.

Lining is a popular material for cladding many residential and non-residential premises, and in order to save money on the installation of the product, you can do it yourself. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the basic subtleties of the work, decide on the frame for the lining and installation tools.

Fastening the lining in different ways

What are the stages of installation of this facing material?

crate . It would be wrong to decide to nail the lining directly to the base of the room; for this, experts advise making a frame or crate. After all, the surface must be even, contain an insulating layer, all its elements must be nailed carefully, at the same level, so that it lies correctly and beautifully.

The frame creates an air space between the two layers, ventilation is formed as one of the foundations for the quality operation of the product. The beam for the crate is thoroughly dried, nailed to the walls with dowel nails. You can use corners with vertical holes for a sliding type of construction in a wooden house. If the walls in the house are crooked, then you need to fix the frame with dowels, bolts or screws. During the installation process, it is desirable to use a level to carry out horizontal and vertical control of the plane.

Attention: the step between the fixed bars (50 * 50) should be - 40 cm, if wall insulation is planned, then the distance will be equal to the insulation layer.

How to nail a crate

The frame slats must be installed perpendicular to the lining, they are attached to the wall with screws and sleeves, they can be shot with dowels. To ensure perfect evenness of the structure, wooden pieces are placed under the slats. A rope is stretched between the extreme bars and a level is set at which the remaining elements are located.

Lining installation methods

How to properly nail the lining to the base of the structure? What fixtures?

There are three ways to fasten the lining.

Vertical, the slats are mounted in the center of the working surface, and the lining of the frame with clapboard is made from the corner of the structure. In such cases, nails with a small head, as well as staples or screws, are better suited for fastening the board.

Where to begin?

Important: on the first board, the comb is cut off so that the panel can hide the caps of the fasteners on the last strip of the first wall.

Horizontal mounting, you need to fasten the lining with the ridge up in order to avoid moisture condensation inside the structure. Installation is best done from top to bottom so that there are no visible gaps between the strips of the finishing board.

• First, the lining is mounted near the ceiling, the second is inserted from below into the first groove, fastened with nails or self-tapping screws.
• The final board is sawn to the desired size and fastened in the step of the last strip.

diagonal arrangement involves the installation of the first board from the corner, and the ends of the lining are cut according to a given sketch.

There are four ways of fastening the lining

How to nail a lining

Here you need skill and accuracy to hide the caps of the fasteners, they are placed in the grooves. You can drill holes for the leg of the nail with a thin drill so as not to split the wood.

How to nail the lining to the wall with screws

Its essence lies in the fact that you need to make holes for the screws in the spike of the strip. After that, the hole is closed with a dowel.

Staples are attached to the back of the lining and fixed to the wall with nails. A kleimer is first attached to the next board, and then it is joined and fixed.

How to nail a lining with self-tapping screws

If the material is plastic, then self-tapping screws are suitable for it, it is inserted into the top of the board, and the cap is flush with the spike. And so on in order, until the last board.

We line the steam room with clapboard

There is an opinion among experienced attendants that with a vertical fastening of the lining, the temperature of the boards at the bottom and at the top turns out to be different, this affects the life of the product. With the horizontal position of the boards, drying out and broadening occurs less, this method of cladding still makes the bath more spacious and lighter.

Attention: with this fastening, the groove must be directed downwards!

But the vertical laying of the lining will be just right for saunas (with dry air and high temperature readings). For efficient air circulation, holes are made in the boards, and the problem with the formation of condensate is solved.

How to nail the lining in the steam room correctly and efficiently? Kleimer sheathing technique. This method allows easy dismantling in the future when replacing unusable plates. The budget option would be nails. Galvanized elements are driven into the mounting rails, and the caps are recessed with a punch. True, in this case there is a high probability of making a mistake and spoiling the material.

To mount the lining on the shelves and seats, self-tapping screws are used, the surface of the coating is polished, the cladding board is held firmly and looks beautiful. And for the old type lining, holes are made in the plates, the chamfer goes under the hat and the screws are screwed flush into the frame. Using this method, you can mount the plates on the walls of the steam room.

Skirting boards are nailed to the facing board (the caps are removed in advance), and then the place is rubbed with sandpaper.

All these methods allow you to sheathe the steam room and the washing room with clapboard as quickly and soundly as possible. Follow the proven methods and enjoy the benefits of this cladding material.

This article provides instructions for installing a lining with your own hands.

The lining can be plastic, MDF or wooden.

Using a wooden example, we will tell you how to properly nail a lining.

First of all, you need to decide on the direction:

• Vertically, from the floor to the ceiling - the room visually becomes taller and narrower.
• Horizontally, from wall to wall - looks lower, but wider.
• At an angle (diagonal laying) - a slightly more complicated way and more material consumption.

If the surface is wooden, perfectly flat and vertical (an almost improbable case), we nail the lining directly to the wall.

In other cases, a crate of slats with a pitch of 500 mm is required.

Let's say that we chose the vertical arrangement of the lining.

Lathing installation

They are made of dry, even, planed pine slats with a cross section of at least 20 * 40 mm.

It is desirable to treat Reiki with an antiseptic composition:

• In the corner of the room, we install the first rail vertically, checking its position with a plumb line. It is necessary to fasten the rail to the wall with a 500 mm pitch with screws of sufficient length, using plastic dowels and wooden spacers.
• In the opposite corner, we mount the second rail in the same way.
• We stretch two cords along the top and bottom of the wall from rail to rail, which will serve as beacons when installing the upper and lower rails.
• We strengthen the horizontal rails under the ceiling and near the floor, controlling their position along the cord.
• Stepping back from the lower rail 0.5 meters, we install the next rail horizontally.

Advice. You can also check the correct installation by pulling the cord between the extreme rails. Or according to the rule (flat rail), resting it on the upper and lower horizontal rails.

• The rest of the battens are installed in the same way.

Do the same on the other walls.

Note. With a horizontal arrangement of the lining, the laths of the crate are located vertically. With diagonal laying - at right angles to the lining.

Installation of lining

Vertical arrangement

How to nail a lining with nails vertically?

They begin to fasten the lining from the left corner of the wall:

• Having sawed off (with an electric jigsaw or saw with a fine tooth) the required length, which should be 5–10 mm less than the height of the room, we put the first strip with a comb to the corner.
• What kind of nails to nail the lining? Along the crest with thin nails with a small hat (they are also called finishing).
• Then you can proceed in several ways.
• Nail the lining with finishing nails in the middle of the strip to each lath of the crate and putty the nail heads, drowning them in wood, or you can not putty.
• Fasten in the same way, but use screws instead of nails (for example, 2.5 - 3 mm in diameter).
• Fasten with nails or screws not in the middle, but along the ridge (due to the small thickness of the ridge, it is necessary to drill holes for fasteners, otherwise cracking is possible).

• Hammer nails or tighten screws in the grooves of the lining. In this case, the ridge of the next strip hides the fastener.

How to properly nail a lining?

Advice. Nails must be beaten at an angle and not completely, so as not to damage the front side. Nails are finished using a punch or core with a blunt end.

• Use special fasteners. These are metal brackets that are put on the bottom shelf of the groove and nailed to the crate. Their price is low.

Note. Clamps can be fastened with nails (usually included), 3 * 12 screws or staples using a construction stapler.

• We insert the second strip with a comb into the groove of the first and knock it all the way.

Advice. In order not to damage the groove, when finishing off the lining, use a piece with a cut groove. It is inserted with a comb into the groove of the strip, and it is struck with a hammer.

• The remaining strips are attached in the same way. It is necessary to periodically control the vertical position of the lining with a plumb line and, if necessary, correct it.
• The last strip is cut to the desired width and nailed to the crate along the right edge.
• On the first strip of the next wall, the ridge is cut off. This strip will cover the nail heads on the last lining of the first wall.
• Further installation is carried out in the same way as on the first wall.

Horizontal arrangement

How to nail the lining horizontally?

When mounting from the bottom up, it is better to see how to nail the lining with nails almost to the very top, but under the ceiling there will be a strip cut in width, which is not always beautiful.

With this method, gaps between the stripes are visible.

Important. With horizontal decoration of the walls of a bath or sauna, moisture gets into these cracks and the lining will quickly lose its beautiful appearance.

If you start from above, then the first strip is attached under the ceiling.

The next strip is inserted from below with a comb into the groove of the first, nailed, and so on.

The last strip is cut to width, and wound into the penultimate groove, while it is convenient to use the simplest lever (for example, a nail puller or a pry bar).

The gap near the floor is covered with a plinth.

diagonal arrangement

More commonly used on ceilings than walls.

The technology for nailing the lining diagonally is slightly different.

• You need to start from the corner.
• The ends of each strip are cut according to the template at the required angle.
• When, it is most convenient to fasten with clamps using screws using a screwdriver or a cordless screwdriver.

Little tricks. In order not to leave marks from the sole of the electric jigsaw on the front side, it is better to cut on the wrong side, using a nail file “tooth up”. In order not to break a thin comb when sawing, you can put a piece of lining on it with a groove.

Final stage

After the planes of the walls and (or) the ceiling are ready, it is necessary to decorate the corners - vertical and horizontal, internal and external.

For external corners, wooden corners are usually used, which are nailed with finishing nails.

Internal knots can be closed with a special jute (or hemp) cord or a special shaped corner rail - fillet.

How to nail eurolining demonstrates the video.

The walls in the house in their area take up much more space than the ceilings and floors. Therefore, their design should be taken as carefully as possible, having thought over for this both the type of facing material and analyzing its characteristics. In addition, the walls must necessarily have an attractive appearance and be easy to maintain. The article will focus on the choice and methods of fastening eurolining.

Eurolining

Wood is one of the most sought after building materials. It is popular for cladding both the facade of the house and for interior work. After all, wood is a natural material that is ready to serve for decades and has a fairly attractive appearance.

Eurolining photo

• Eurolining is a type of finishing material processed in a special way from all sides. To facilitate the skin, there are grooves and spikes along its edges. The dimensions of the eurolining may vary slightly, but the most popular material with the following parameters:
  1. thickness 1.2 cm;
  2. width 9.6 cm;
  3. length 2-3 m.
• Lining is a fairly practical material that is easy to install. It helps in leveling the walls, in hiding the defects that have arisen due to improper plastering of the walls. Characteristics depend on the type of wood itself from which it is made. After all, all types of wood are different in their structure and properties.
• The material for the production of this type of finishing materials is a tree of both deciduous and coniferous species. Coniferous species are much lower in price than hardwoods. So, eurolining from cedar will cost more than from pine. Wood should be selected depending on its application.
• Also, other types of materials are used in production. PVC lining is the most cost-effective material, but in this case the finishing material is inferior in quality. After all, natural wood will always look much more attractive than artificial plastic.
• If there is a need to finish the room from the inside, then the use of finishing material with low characteristics is allowed. In the case of external cladding, on the contrary, you should use hardwood eurolining, which is not afraid of an aggressive operating environment, resistant to moisture and sudden temperature changes. In order for it to last longer, it is treated with a special solution, which gives it greater strength and wear resistance.

Variety of eurolining

Class difference

• extra class. This is the most elite type of lining. It differs in that it has absolutely no defects;
• "A" class. Minor defects may be present in this type;
• "B" class. There are more knots here than in the class above. The diameter of the knots is also larger;
• "C" class. The cheapest and poor quality type of lining. Its use for decorative design is impractical.

Wood difference

• The most popular type of eurolining is a board pine wood. This is due not only to the high positive indicators of the material, but also to the rather low price of it. Pine lining has a fairly high strength, and its specific gravity is relatively small. It will not create too much load on the crate. This wood contains much less moisture than hardwoods. In addition, the amount of time required for drying its blanks is much less than for drying other breeds. This fact leads to an optimization of the production process and lower costs.
• Since it is pine eurolining that has a high content of resins in its composition, it is durable and useful for the human body. After all, the release of essential oils into the air can cure even neglected chronic lung diseases. And the pleasant smell of pine will not hurt anyone, while creating a good mood and a feeling of comfort. The resin itself is an excellent preservative, which greatly increases the life of the wood.

• In addition, a pine board looks quite attractive and original. It has a peculiar yellowish tint and is distinguished by a beautiful pattern of knots and rings of a tree trunk.

The main advantages of eurolining from pine:

• attractive appearance and original texture of the material;
• long service life. This board does not even have to be treated with special impregnations and apply a protective coating;
• low weight;
• a large number of manufacturers on the market;
• relatively low price compared to other types of wood;
• fairly wide range. The fact is that it is pine boards that are presented on the market in all kinds of designs. Sizes can be customized to your taste. But eurolining from other types of trees of the right size is more difficult to find;
• pine is a tree that is easy to process and install. As a result, it is quite easy to install. This can be done on your own, without the involvement of professionals.

Of course, in addition to pine, useful properties for the human body and strength associated with the presence of a high concentration of resin in the material also differ spruce lining. But it releases sticky drops of resin during the entire period of operation. Such a board is also called a board that cries. In this regard, the price of eurolining from spruce is much lower than for a board from pine.

So, we proceed directly to the installation of eurolining itself. In general, it is no different from installing a conventional lining. The only difference is the quality of the material and the size of the grooves.

How to fix eurolining

• Preparing walls for cladding. First, you need to level the wall. In this case, a crate should be used, which is installed at an angle of ninety degrees to the direction of the lining. The crate is not required if the walls are already fairly even.
• Determining the direction of eurolining. There are several types of installation. So, vertical laying visually increases the height of the ceilings. Horizontal - visually increases the space of the room. But laying at an angle will look stylish and original.
• Choice of mounting method. In total there are several options for attaching eurolining. These are fasteners to the wall itself or to the crate, fastening to special brackets with holes for mounting. The latter method is used if a narrow eurolining is used. To do this, the bracket is nailed to the wall in order to connect it to the groove with the next element.
• If it is necessary to make the mount invisible, then it is necessary to screw the self-tapping screw into the eurolining spike itself. At the same time, the next element closes the head of the self-tapping screw when docking and entering the groove into the groove.
• When the self-tapping screws are attached to the lining itself, then special wooden dowels are used. They allow you to hide the mount and give the lining a solid look.

Preparation for work on the installation of eurolining

• It is necessary to store eurolining before its installation in a special way. It should be in the manufacturer's packaging in a dry and clean room, there should be no sudden temperature changes and direct sunlight is absolutely excluded.
• In order for the material to get used to the environment, it is recommended to remove it from the packaging two days before the start of installation work.
• With the help of a dry or slightly damp cloth, dust and dirt on the material is removed.
• It is very important at this stage to treat the lining with a special antiseptic solution. It prevents the occurrence of mold, fungi and protects against the appearance of insects. After that, the slats should dry thoroughly.

• It should be noted that the installation work on the cladding is carried out exclusively at an air temperature of at least 5 ° C. Also, the air humidity should not be higher than 60%.
• If there is a desire to cover the material with special decorative varnishes or paint, then the easiest way is to do this before starting installation work. This will allow you to apply a layer of varnish evenly and dry it without smudges. When covering the walls of a bath or sauna, the use of varnish is prohibited. After all, in the process of heating, it will emit harmful fumes into the air.
• The next step is to correctly calculate the amount of material that will be required for sheathing. To do this, both the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls or ceiling, and the thickness of the board are taken into account. We should not forget that the working width of the lining is reduced by ten millimeters due to the fact that the longitudinal spike enters the groove of the next element.

Lathing for installation of eurolining

• In order for the eurolining to serve for a single decade and not lose its properties during operation, it must be fixed exclusively on a flat surface. Therefore, it is often impossible to mount it on bare walls. If the walls are wooden and absolutely smooth, then in this case, installation can be started without surface preparation. If the wall is made of brick, concrete or metal, then you need to start with the arrangement of a wooden crate.

• It is a frame of wooden slats, two or three centimeters thick and attached to the surface. You can attach them not only to the walls, but also to the ceiling and floor. If the slats are attached to the ceiling, then the distance between them should be about 40 cm. And if on the wall, then from 50 to 70 cm. The direction must be chosen so that they are at right angles to the boards. For best results, use a level. In this case, the rails will be installed as evenly as possible. On the material for the crate is also not worth saving. It is important that the slats are straight and without significant defects. Their role is not only to perfectly level the surface, but also to create special ventilation between the wall and the lining.

Ways of fastening eurolining

• Fastening eurolining with self-tapping screws. The lining is attached to the screws on the side where the spike is located. The length of the fasteners is best chosen within 1-1.5 cm. After tightening, the screws should be covered using a dowel. Upon completion of the skin, it is necessary to cut off all protruding elements and carefully sand the entire surface.

• Lining with eurolining using invisible fastening with brackets. The first board of the lining is applied to the right corner and cut to the desired size. After that, it is fixed with the help of special brackets, or as they are also called clamps. They firmly fix the cladding to the crate, while not interfering with the joining of subsequent rails by means of a tenon-groove.

• Invisible fastening with nails. This fastening method is similar to that of stapling. But, in this case, not staples are used, but narrow nails that are galvanized. But the hats should be hammered deep into the material, otherwise they will stick out and interfere with the fastening of the next board.

Do-it-yourself installation of eurolining

• The first board is set as straight as possible in a vertical position in the right corner. In this case, you can not do without a level. This is important because all other boards that are attached to the starting board must be perfectly even.
• Next, the lining is attached by any of the methods described earlier.
• The subsequent board must be inserted with a spike into the groove of the initial one and driven tightly along the board. Next, check the evenness of the vertical, using a level or plumb line. If there are even the slightest inaccuracies, then the board should be installed on a new one. The angle must be strictly 90 degrees.

• The last plank is cut to size and, in order to make the corner more beautiful, it is covered with fittings, in particular, a decorative wooden corner.
• Installation of the ceiling with eurolining is carried out according to a similar principle.

Installation of eurolining video

Eurolining care

• In order for the cladding board not to lose its attractiveness and serve as long as possible without changing its characteristics, it needs proper and systematic care, which is directly related to the processing methods and the purpose of the lining.
• If the room in which the eurolining will be located is excessively humid or prone to significant temperature changes, then the boards themselves may soon change their appearance, crack and deform.
• For protection, various natural impregnations, oils and varnishes can serve. They can also be applied during the operation of the cladding, thereby updating its appearance.
• If the lining is treated with an antiseptic containing boric salt, then it can be sheathed not only in saunas and baths, but also in the external facade of the house. In this case, she will not be afraid of rain, wind or frost.
• To care for the lining, the use of abrasive substances is prohibited. It will be enough to wipe the tree with a damp cloth dipped in soapy water. If it is necessary to eliminate the stain on the board, then the solvent can be used locally. Subsequently, treat the place of cleaning with varnish or oil, depending on what material it was treated with earlier.

As you can see, eurolining is a versatile natural material that does not require special care, is relatively inexpensive and is quite easy to install. Reliability, practicality and amazing appearance of eurolining make it a leader among facing materials.

The difference between euro lining and wooden lining is that it is produced according to the European standard DIN 68126. Improved and modernized wood processing technologies make this environmentally friendly and safe material high moisture resistance. Considerably simplifies installation and prolongs service life.

To properly install the eurolining yourself, you will need the necessary tools:

• electric jigsaw;
• ruler with a level;
• hammer;
• perforator;
• wood screws;
• mounting thread;
• drill;
• kleimers.

You can calculate the coverage area using the width of the working panel, which is 88 mm. Difficulties with the area of ​​​​the ceiling are quite rare, but the surface of the walls is divided into separate rectangles for ease of calculation. The length of the board should be equal to one of the sides of the resulting sectors. Depending on how the window or doorway is located, the other side will be of arbitrary size.

Be more careful when using in the calculations not the working, but the real width of the board, which is 96 mm, its error will be 7%.

There is a simple instruction that does not require a specific classification of the master. It details how to properly fix the lining. It includes several items - from the preparation of the walls and to the final finish.

PREPARATION

Before you install wood paneling yourself, you must first make the best option for electrical wiring in the room. After the finishing process is completed, the wires will be hidden under the panels. These wires are placed in special channels called corrugations, which are made of non-combustible material.

Boxes with boards must be opened and kept in this condition from 24 to 72 hours. This is necessary so that the material can get used to the given climate, temperature and humidity in the room. As a result, shrinkage or bursting of the panels at the joints can be avoided.

From what to fix eurolining, the appearance of the skin will change over time. Differences in color and texture are very noticeable, as they are made from solid wood. Therefore, before starting the installation, it is necessary to choose the most suitable sequence of boards, it depends on the chosen laying direction. Directions can be: diagonal, vertical, combined and horizontal.

Attention: when finishing the ceiling, the panels located along the incident rays of light from the window can significantly increase the volume of the room.

INSTALLING THE CUTTON

• It doesn’t matter what kind of wood for the crate, the main thing is that this material should be artificially dried;
• Sheathing boards are mounted on carrier rails with a section of 20 by 45 or 30 by 45 mm;
• Using the level, you can check the correct installation;
• The distance between the rails should be 0.4-0.8 m.

The direction of the crate depends on how the eurolining is attached:

1. Rails are attached to the ceiling and floor in a diagonal or horizontal position;
2. It is necessary to install the rails horizontally with vertical sheathing, from wall to wall. It's best to start at the top and work your way down.

HEAT INSULATION

If you are sheathing the room yourself, use mineral wool as a heater. Cotton wool fills the space between the lining and the wall well.

For additional hydro- or vapor barrier, a stapler is attached on top of the cotton wool, with a water-repellent film with the silver side inward. It can be Tyvek, Isospan or other waterproofing materials.

KLEIMERS

Kleimers are hidden clips with which eurolining is attached. From the outside, this fastener is imperceptible, does not expose the tree to expansion or shrinkage, and helps to avoid splitting the panels. Fasteners for eurolining are made of galvanized steel, which is under reliable protection against corrosion.

Galvanized nails, self-tapping screws and clamps are sold in sets of 100 and 200 pieces. About 20 clamps will be needed for one square meter of eurolining. The price of the package depends on the completeness. When buying, pay attention to the elasticity of the retainer, the presence of coating and the thickness of the plate.

Pay attention to the first panel when fixing with screws. Then the protruding part of the clamp is inserted into the groove of the board, and the base is screwed or nailed to the carrier rails. Each subsequent plank, fastener, closing with itself, enters the groove pressed by the kleimer with its spike. The last board is adjusted and cut to the required size. It is not recommended to hit the end with a hammer if the boards are joined with some effort. When struck with a hammer, a spike or groove can be split. In these cases, a piece of rail is placed under the hammer.

Attention: if the euro lining is horizontal, then the planks are placed with the spike up, in order to avoid the accumulation of moisture in the grooves.

FINISH

When you complete the sheathing, treat the surface with an antiseptic, it protects the tree from fungus and decay. To brighten the texture of wood, use wax or stain. In the interior, the coating made with the help of matte varnish looks beautiful.

We conclude that it will not be difficult to figure out how the euro lining is attached. The workflow has the advantage that installation can be done quickly and easily. And another plus is that at the end of the work there is very little waste and garbage in the room.