Twenty perennial vegetables. What to plant in the garden and how to do it right: the best tips and tricks Before planting garden crops, people carefully

Carrots grow well after cabbage, and beets grow well after parsley and parsnips. Knowing such wisdom, you can get an excellent harvest of vegetables.

It's time to plan what and where to plant on the site. Remember that the correct alternation (fruit rotation) of vegetable crops not only increases productivity, but also protects plants from diseases and pests.

Each vegetable has its own mineral

Various vegetables consume minerals during growth, depleting the soil. But each plant has its own\"menu \". Potatoes and cabbage lean on potassium and nitrogen. But cabbage also loves phosphorus, just like tomatoes and radish... Therefore, if you plant the same crop several times in a row, even if you apply fertilizer, the soil is still one-sidedly depleted.

Any crop planted in a garden bed that prefers the same minerals as its predecessor will feel uncomfortable. For example, tomatoes planted for the second season in a row on the same bed or planted immediately after cabbage will lack phosphorus. In addition, each plant releases substances into the soil that inhibit the growth of the same crop next year, which also leads to a decrease in yield.

Another danger lies in the accumulation in the soil of pathogenic bacteria and pest larvae, "specializing" on a particular plant. For example, a tomato or pepper is not recommended to be planted after potatoes. And vice versa. Why? All of them belong to the nightshade family and can get late blight. If phytophthora spores enter the soil, then they are viable for several more years. And, repeating the sowing of crops susceptible to phytophthora at this place, we thereby only "feed" the disease.

Yes, and the Colorado potato beetle, waking up after hibernation, in the absence of potatoes, will willingly switch to tomatoes and even peppers.

They grow poorly one after another in any combination: cabbage, radish, turnip, radish. All of them can get kyla. But with the correct sequence of planting, it is much easier to resist diseases and pests.

Rotating vegetables also helps control weeds. Plants with well-developed, fast-growing foliage (cabbage, potatoes, beans, squash, and others) have the ability to suppress weeds. Conversely, crops that slowly develop a small rosette of leaves (carrots, beets) are very vulnerable to weeds. So these two groups of plants are good to alternate with each other.

A special place in the garden should be reserved for perennial vegetable plants (rhubarb, asparagus, sorrel). Usually they are placed at the end of the site or along its perimeter, so that they do not obscure the rest of the plants.

Attention

Related cultures with similar needs:

peas, beans, beans, rank, chickpeas (bean family);

potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers (nightshade family);

radish, turnip, rutabaga, radish, cabbage, watercress, horseradish, mustard, rapeseed (cruciferous family);

carrots, dill, celery, parsley, parsnips, cumin, coriander, anise (umbrella family);

beets, chard, spinach (family haze);

cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, squash, zucchini (pumpkin family);

sorrel, rhubarb (buckwheat family);

basil, peppermint, lemon balm, marjoram, thyme (laminaceae family);

leaf lettuce, head lettuce, estragon (Asteraceae family);

onion, garlic (lily family).

By the way

Onions and carrots are "friends". Planted side by side, they are successfully protected from pests. Each of them has its own pest - the fly, respectively, carrot and onion. But the onion fly does not tolerate the smell of carrots, and the carrot fly disappears if onions grow nearby.

It is better not to plant tomatoes and cucumbers nearby. For successful growth, tomatoes need dry hot air, rare but plentiful watering. Excessive soil moisture provokes late blight in tomatoes. Cucumbers prefer warm dampness. These vegetables have a completely different approach to fertilizers. Unlike the cucumber, the tomato does not tolerate manure. Therefore, even in the open field, it is not worth arranging beds with cucumbers next to the beds of tomatoes, and there is no need to talk about greenhouses. But it is possible to alternate them with each other.

Onions, potatoes, carrots can be grown in one place for a long time if the soil is not infected with pathogens.

adviсe

The seven rules of crop rotation:

1 It is not recommended to plant crops that require early planting after crops that have been harvested late. For example, carrots, parsley, cabbage, and some other crops are in the ground until hard frosts. Naturally, during the winter, the frozen soil will not have time to recover.

2 Make sure not to plant crops of the same species and family one after another in the same place.

3 It is best to return plants from groups that are unfavorable to each other to their former \"place of residence\" in 3-4 years. main culture

can be returned to the previous bed earlier if cereals (wheat, rye, oats) or green manure are sown after it.

4 It is useful to alternate cultures with deep and shallow roots, then the former can get their food from the deeper horizons of the soil.

5 Rotate plants according to their ability to resist weeds.

6 It is advisable to divide the plot into two halves so that on one half it is possible to grow vegetables that grow well after manure is applied, and on the other - crops that do not tolerate manure. With this division, you will ensure that a wide variety of crops can be grown annually.

7 It is necessary to include legumes in the crop rotation, as they enrich the soil with nitrogen. They are good predecessors for almost any culture.

Should garden crops be planted elsewhere? Many gardeners will ask. Yes, be sure to change the planting sites. Not necessarily every year. Each vegetable feeds on soil substances in its own way. If for many years you plant plants, such as cabbage, in the same place, then the harvest will get worse and worse every year. The soil wears out. What do potatoes eat? This plant takes up 3 times more potassium than cabbage. Cabbage takes twice as much nitrogen, and four times as much lime as.

Important!

Dear gardeners, flower growers and builders. Send us your stories about growing vegetables, flowers and other plants. We are waiting for photos from you with you and your family in the background of the plantings. Photos will be posted on the site in the gallery section or in a feature article.

In what order to plant plants so that they grow better?

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- onion and garlic after cucumbers, tomato, cabbage,.

- tomatoes, peppers, eggplant after cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, peas, early and cauliflower.

If you are planting early crops, then after emptying the beds, you can also plant other plants in their place, for example:

- early radish, after it sow lettuce, dill, radish for the fall. They have short lead times.

- lettuce, dill, early onions, after them plant tomatoes, late cabbage.

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The principle of changing crops or crop rotation has been known to farmers for a very long time. In the old days, such a technique of temporal and territorial alternation of plants was called multifield. In addition to changing crops, one of the fields was very often left unsown, that is, the land was kept fallow. With the development of science, multi-field has received justification from the point of view of agrobiology, agrochemistry, and economics.

In small areas, it is unlikely that it will be possible to organize a complete crop rotation, including fallow, however, we will try to find out what can then be planted in the garden. This will help to maintain the correct alternation of crops.

This article has helped many gardeners stop overworking on their plot and at the same time get a generous harvest.

I would never have thought that in order to get the best harvest on my garden plot in my entire “dacha career”, I just need to stop overworking myself in the beds and trust nature. For as long as I can remember, every summer I spent in the country. First on the parent, and then my husband and I bought our own. From early spring to late autumn, all free time was spent on planting, weeding, tying, pruning, watering, harvesting and, finally, conservation and trying to save the crop until next year. And so in a circle...

What gives the right change of crops in the garden

When a person receives a plot of virgin, previously uncultivated land for use, then in the first three to four years of growing garden crops on it, they give a good harvest. In the next two or three years, with the condition of applying fertilizers, mineral and organic, the harvest continues to be very decent. However, after a few years after the beginning of the cultivation of vegetable and other crops, their quantity and quality begin to decline steadily.

No fertilizers, tillage methods give the desired yield and lead only to short-term unstable improvements. Practical observations have shown that if there was a change of crops, at least once every two or three years, then the yield improved both quantitatively and qualitatively.

However, this technique was also not always effective. It turned out that both predecessor plants and neighboring plants play an important role. If you organize the change of cultures correctly, you can achieve the following positive results:

• increase crop yields by 20 - 25%
• reduce fertilizer costs
• minimize or completely eliminate diseases and pests
• reduce physical and material costs

In addition, the inclusion in the cultivation of the garden of such a technique as sowing plants - green manure, helps to clear the site of weeds, and serve as a means for fertilizing the land and enriching it with mineral and organic substances. If you do not adhere to the order of alternation of crops on the site, then this is fraught with the accumulation of pathogens and pests in the soil. Not following the order and planting plants after unfavorable predecessor crops depletes the soil, increases the cost of fertilizers.

How to organize the rotation of crops in the garden

To properly organize the alternation of grown crops, you need to follow a few rules. One of them is not to plant like after like. It follows from it that one should not just not plant, for example, potatoes after potatoes, but any plants from the nightshade family should not be planted after each other. To comply with this rule, you need to know that all plants are divided in terms of botanical systematics into families, each of which includes several types of cultivated plants.

Solanaceae family

Plants of this family include crops that are very important for every gardener:

• potatoes
• tomatoes
• vegetable sweet and hot peppers
• eggplant
• tobacco
• physalis

Also in this family are flowers such as petunia, decorative varieties of Datura. If the site is supposed to grow several nightshade crops, then all of the above vegetables and flowers should not be planted one after another. This is due to the fact that these plants primarily take available nitrogen from the soil and greatly impoverish it.

If tomatoes or eggplants were grown in the current year, then next year potatoes should not be planted in the same area. Now other plants from the Solanaceae family have appeared in culture, such as:

• Saraha
• sunberry
• naranjilla
• melon pear
• cocoon

Although for many they are still exotic, they are gradually occupying their niche in the areas.

Cucurbitaceae family

This family includes both well-known names and plants unfamiliar to many:

• cucumbers
• pumpkin
• watermelons
• squash
• zucchini
• zucchini
• chayote
• lagenaria
• luffa

These plants consume quite a lot not only organic matter, but also phosphorus and potassium from the soil.

Cabbage family

This family includes not only all types of garden cabbage, but also other garden and agricultural plants:

• mustard
• camelina

Some of the members of the family can be used as green manure crops.

Legume family

Plants of this family are distinguished by the ability to fix nitrogen from the atmosphere. Beans include:

• lentils
• peas
• beans

Some plants can also be grown as siderates and plowed into the ground. In addition to the above families, other crops should also be remembered, such as:

• Umbelliferae - carrots
• Amaryllis - onion, garlic
• Amaranth - beets
• Cereals - corn
• Asteraceae - sunflower

These plants can be both good predecessors and excellent neighbors for many vegetable crops.

Vegetable Compatibility, Crop Rotation and Ancillary Activities

Before the start of the gardening season, you need to think over a plan - a scheme for planting crops. In conditions of a limited area, it is more convenient to divide the territory into 4 parts. If you change crops every year, then plants of the same family will fall on the same bed in three years on the fourth. In addition, it is desirable that crops fall into the garden after the best predecessors.

Video about crop rotation and the best neighbors on your site:

The best predecessors for vegetable crops in the garden

For crops from the Solanaceae family, the following plants will be the best predecessors:

• peas
• cucumbers
• cabbage

The best neighbors are:

• watermelon
• thyme
• tarragon

It is very good if before any kind of garden cabbage and before other vegetables from the Cabbage family grew:

• zucchini
• potatoes
• corn
• carrot

Good neighbors for them will be:

• Dill
• celery
• chard
• spinach

Before legumes it is best to plant:

• any cabbage
• beets
• cucumbers
• vegetable peppers

The best neighbors for plants from the legume family:

• coriander
• radish
• pumpkin
• sunflower
• salad

If you need to plant pumpkin crops, then this should be done after:

• any cabbage
• garlic
• eggplant
• tomatoes
• spinach

It is good to plant in the neighborhood:

• rhubarb
• basil
• marjoram
• beets
• coriander
• corn
• sunflower

In addition to vegetable crops in the garden, you can also grow berry crops and shrubs. Strawberries and strawberries are best planted after:

• dill
• carrots
• peas

The berry will grow well next to:

• garlic
• cucumbers
• sorrel

For shrubs such as gooseberries and currants, the best predecessors will be:

• peas
• beet
• corn

The best neighbors for them:

• raspberries
• peas

If it is not possible to organize an annual change of crops, then it is allowed to grow vegetables on the same area for two seasons. In addition, the situation will be saved by sowing green manure before planting crops or after harvesting. For spring planting, you can use:

• peas
• mustard

They do it immediately on the thawed earth. By the time of planting the main crop, spring green manure is plowed into the soil. In the fall, after the crop is harvested, you can plant the following crops:

• mustard
• phacelia

When planting in the fall, green manure either goes under the snow and the earth is dug up in the spring, or even in the fall they are embedded in the soil. It is advisable to record all the manipulations associated with the alternation of crops in the garden in a special diary, this will help to comply with the rules for changing crops on the site.

Today we will talk about how gardeners themselves prevent nature from growing a rich harvest on their own plots.

The desire to get a good harvest pushes most people to look for new methods of farming. At the same time, everyone forgets that most of these methods violate the natural laws of nature.

The reason is simple. These methods are derived by academicians. Academicians, sitting in their academies, do something tricky in the laboratories and bring to the surface the latest achievements of science and technology. Otherwise, what would they receive financial allowance for?

It is possible that at first you will get good results using these methods. But very soon nature will take revenge on you for disrespectful attitude towards it. Every year you will have to invest more and more of your own work in order to get the desired result. You turn into a voluntary "slave" of your own garden.

We are ours, we will build a new world

The other day, our colleague called us and shared one review: “I would never have thought that in order to get the best harvest on my personal plot in my entire “dacha career”, I just need to stop overworking myself in the beds and trust nature."

First thought: “What nonsense! It's unclear…"

Therefore, we asked to send more detailed information. Here is what we have learned about the actions of "caring" gardeners that lead to exhausting work and low yields.

Throughout their lives, most gardeners:

1. Diligently dig their own garden, as if hoping to find a treasure.

“Dig, dig and dig again” - pundits from agricultural science bequeath to all gardeners.

Thoughtlessly sticking a shovel into the soil and turning over the layers, you complicate life not only for your garden crops, but also for yourself.

It never even occurs to anyone that when digging up, the natural habitat of microorganisms that are so necessary for your plants is violated. Microorganisms die, and you have to carry bags of chemical "evil fertilizers" from the store to make up for their deficiency.
You need to cultivate the soil, but do not dig - loosen by 5-7 cm. The fact is that she is a living organism, and digging is fatal for her. Therefore, instead of a traditional shovel, I recommend arming yourself with a ripper, any. It could be:

• manual cultivator with undercutting plate;
• pololnik Strizh;
• Kuzmich's shovel;
• hoe;
• hoe;
• Fokin flat cutter.

In general, the tool can be selected according to your preferences, it is only important that the formation does not turn over when loosening.

2. Persistently quench the thirst of the soil, instead of retaining the moisture present in it

Many hours and daily water procedures are familiar to every gardener. A bucket and a hose have long become a symbol of summer vacation for them, and attempts to pump the nearby lake to their site are the meaning of their whole lives.

Have you ever thought that it is easier and more reliable to preserve what you have than to engage in artificial reclamation, suitable only for urban lawns? DO NOT water, but mulch!

You can mulch (cover) the soil with mowed grass and weeds or an 8-10 cm layer of peat. True, in peat - since it is sour - it is worth adding ash at the rate of a couple of glasses of ash per bucket of peat.

By the way, for mulching, you can use ordinary newspapers folded in several layers. Today's newspapers are photoprinted and therefore do not contain lead ink.

Mulch:

• inhibits the growth of perennial weeds and does not allow annuals to sow the land with seeds;
• retains moisture in the soil, preventing it from evaporating from the surface (plants manage to take no more than 20-25% of water during irrigation, the rest is evaporated from the soil by the sun and dry air, especially in windy weather);
• at night, dew falls under any mulch due to the temperature difference on its upper and lower sides, and the soil absorbs this dew.

Thus, mulching the soil significantly reduces one of the most labor-intensive tasks - watering.

3. They arrange general cleaning of their garden, turning it into a park of "culture and recreation"

Try to answer a simple question: "Do you need beauty or a rich harvest?" Of course, the admiring glances of your neighbors at your site, which is just right for excursions, bring many pleasant minutes and a sense of pride. BUT pleasant moments will be forgotten, and out of a “sense of pride” you are unlikely to be able to make preparations for the winter.

So maybe you shouldn’t be so diligent about putting things in order on your site, but let Mother Nature herself take care of the soil in a natural way and without your active intervention?

But how then to deal with weeds - these native children of nature, which she awarded with incredible vitality? After all, other things being equal, in the struggle for existence, weeds will prevail over cultivated plants.

To avoid weeding in the beds, it is necessary after harvesting immediately cover the soil with opaque material. Non-woven covering materials are best suited for this purpose: black spunbond or lutrasil of the highest density. It can be fixed with poles, slate nails or staples made of wire, at worst, with stones, so as not to be blown away by the wind.

However, you can cover the beds with cardboard or newspapers folded in 5-6 layers, making sure that the wind does not rip them off until spring. The beds are left covered until the seedlings are planted or seeds are sown.

A light-tight layer on the surface of the soil will not allow perennial weeds to survive without light, and any mulch will not allow weed seeds to get on the soil and germinate. If you need to free some place from perennial weeds, cover it for a couple of years with opaque material - and they will end.

In the spring, before sowing, in the evening, water the beds with water directly over the shelter. If they are covered with cardboard, then remove it, water the soil and lay the cardboard again. In the morning, remove the cover, loosen the soil shallowly, make the seed furrows with the edge of the board, leaving no large distances between the furrows, so as not to allow the weeds to settle in the empty space.

What to do?

The question is known to all. Very often it remains unanswered. In our case, we have the answer!

organic farming

Since the beginning of the 20th century, many agronomists, biologists and farmers around the world began to abandon the treatment of plantings with chemical fertilizers and pesticides, as well as plowing the land, as they noticed that this leads to the degeneration of the soil and crops growing on it.

This approach to farming is called organic and is aimed primarily at increasing the natural fertility of the soil. That is, the land is not plowed or watered, but specially prepared for planting. Organic residues are used for fertilizer, and biological methods of protection are used against pests. By 2007, approximately 30.5 million hectares on Earth were already being used in accordance with the principles of organic agriculture.

Nature itself will not tell you anything

Many people cannot understand the language of nature. But there are people who have made friends with nature. It was to them that she revealed her secrets. Galina Aleksandrovna Kizima is one of those people.

Watch the video (it will take you less than 1 minute). By the way, don't forget to turn on the sound)))

Do you want to know what you need to learn from nature in order to work less and get better results?

Proper placement of plants in the beds affects their yield more than it seems. The fact that some crops grow better if they are planted together, while others, on the contrary, interfere with each other, was also noticed by the Indians who plant pumpkins, beans and corn together. Now many gardeners and summer residents know about the successful and unsuccessful neighborhood of vegetables in the beds. The table of "friends" and "enemies" of each vegetable has been studied in detail and is available to everyone.

Good neighbors in the garden

Joint planting of vegetables not only makes full use of the available land, but also positively affects the growth and yield of both plants. As a nice addition, such beds will look very nice from the outside. Smart garden planning and the interaction of plants in it combines many nuances that have been studied by both scientists and farmers in their own experience.

It is known that many plants emit chemical compounds that can both promote the growth of neighbors and suppress it. In addition, they can provide each other with protection from the heat, providing shade, enriching the soil, inhibiting the growth of weeds that are dangerous to another species, or repelling pests. Each culture has its own list of useful and harmful companions in the garden.

Benefits of co-planting

Rules for joint planting of cultivated plants designed primarily to increase productivity. Observing them, a person receives the following benefits:

Different neighbors are good for each plant, so you need to carefully consider the layout of the garden before you start mixed planting vegetables in the beds. An example of a successful neighborhood: cucumber and corn, when cereals protect the vegetable from the scorching sun and at the same time serve as a support for it. Corn is also good in the vicinity of tomatoes, but it is better not to plant tomatoes with cucumbers themselves - they require completely different amounts of moisture and fresh air for optimal growth.

Vegetables can be planted not only next to other edible plants, but also with fragrant herbs or even flowers.

For example, basil improves the taste of tomatoes, while mint improves the taste of white cabbage. Almost all crops can be planted next to garlic and onions, because these odorous plants produce a large amount of phytoncides that work well on many vegetables.

All plants need pollinators, which can be attracted by planting flowers next to vegetables - they will not only benefit, but also serve as a garden decoration. In addition to them, herbs such as mint, lemon balm and marjoram will help attract pollinating insects. Earthworms also have a good effect on most crops - they loosen the earth, increasing the amount of oxygen available to plants. They like herbs such as chicory, valerian and green onions.

Universal neighbors that are useful for almost any vegetable are legumes. Nodule bacteria live on their roots, processing nitrogen from the air, which the beans can supply to closely growing plants. The most nitrogen-rich soil remains after the end of their growth, therefore legumes also serve as a good predecessor for crops demanding this parameter, for example, pumpkin or cabbage.

Another plant that is friendly with so many vegetables is spinach. It releases special substances that help plants better absorb the beneficial elements from the garden. In addition, spinach leaves grow quickly and cover the ground, protecting it from drying out and preventing weeds from developing, while neighboring vegetables are still small and occupy the entire garden.

All cultures prefer different friends - there are many factors to consider in order to understand what to plant with what in the garden. The compatibility table of the most popular vegetables looks like this:

Pest protectors

Many plants repel or lure insects or animals that feed on vegetable crops. They can be combined in plantings with vulnerable plants or planted between rows for preventive purposes. If you do it right, you can significantly reduce the use of chemicals in the garden or completely eliminate them. Different crops will help protect the garden from such pests:

Warring vegetables

In addition to friend plants that strengthen and support each other in the garden, there are neighbors that are very bad for some species, which inhibit their growth and have a bad effect on the crop. The consequences of joint planting of such "enemies" are often the attraction of pests, diseases, waterlogging, due to which fungi develop, or even the complete cessation of growth of one of the crops. Enemies of the most common garden plants:

Rules for successful combination

In order to get a rich harvest, it is not enough just to plant suitable crops nearby and protect their enemy plants - many more factors must be taken into account. It is best to combine species favorable to each other both horizontally and vertically, and plant them at the right time so that vegetables that grow too early do not ruin their neighbors.

Plants in a joint bed should first of all be combined according to preferences for temperature and amount of water. It is also worth considering the structure of their root system - you need to plant vegetables with different root depths nearby so that they do not intersect and there is no competition.

Another important parameter is the amount of nutrients the plant needs. The culture most in need of them is planted in the center of the planting, and the less demanding crops are planted on the sides. You can never plant crops with the same height and width of leaves on one bed - one of them will definitely destroy a neighbor.

For the proper cultivation of vegetables, you also need to know after which crops they can be planted.

Onions, for example, prefer cucumbers, legumes and early varieties of potatoes as predecessors, but do not like it when celery, radish or carrots grew in front of it in the garden. Both in small and large crop rotations, you should not use plants of the same family twice in a row: this is especially true for beets, chard and spinach.

In a greenhouse, vegetables grow faster - this is also worth considering if you want to create joint plantings there. Before starting work, you need to carefully consider the layout of the beds - take into account the cardinal points (some crops, such as cucumbers and tomatoes, are grown on the southern sunny side of greenhouses), find those plants that are suitable for the same humidity and temperature, and make sure that none of them did not interfere with others.

Joint planting of vegetables is a very effective and useful way, which will help to grow a good crop even under adverse conditions or in a small area. Using the various tables, you can easily create your own combinations of suitable plants and enjoy delicious and juicy vegetables from the garden every year.

Compatibility of vegetables in the beds