It's time to plant fruit trees and berry bushes! The main principles of planting ornamental shrubs and their reproduction.
May calendar gardener and gardener is full of business.
But no matter how busy you are on the site, it is advisable to plant seedlings, transplant trees and shrubs until the middle of the month. We've put together some tips to help you get the job done.
Garden bloom!
Here's what experts advise to consider when planting new trees.
1 Landing time. This is one of essential conditions success. Seedlings with an open root system are not enough winter-hardy varieties apple trees, pears, cherries, plums, apricots, cherries, sea buckthorn should be planted only in spring, so that over the summer they become stronger and meet the autumn cold fully armed. When planting, it is necessary to ensure that the soil in the garden does not dry out.
Trees and bushes with a closed root system (with earthy clod) suffer less during transplantation, so the timing of work with them can be stretched from spring to mid-November.
2 Prepared soil. Before planting a tree, create a favorable environment for it. Adding peat or compost to the hole will help sandy soil retain moisture and clayey soil will provide better drainage. A tree planted in well-fertilized soil will not need further fertilization for at least a year.
3 Weather selection. It is desirable to land on a cloudy, but warm day. If the weather is sunny, plant in the evening. So the seedlings take root better. And if there are already leaves on the trees and bushes, they should be shaded in the first weeks after planting by throwing white gauze over the crown.
4 Planting depth. It is individual for each tree. The main landmark is the root neck of the seedling. The place of transition of the root to the trunk should be located 3-4 cm above ground level. Better plant planted a little higher than planted deep at all.
5 Immediately after planting a tree with open roots or with a root ball, about one third of the branches should be cut. If the seedling was grown in a container, then pruning is not required, since the tree did not lose its roots.
6 Wrap the trunks of new trees with soft fabric tape to protect the delicate bark from the sun and rodents. Tie the tree to stakes to make it stable and keep the roots from weakening in the new location.
7 After planting, seedlings should be well watered and monitored for soil moisture for another 2-3 weeks. In a dry spring, especially in areas with light soil, water berries and fruit trees before flowering. Watering is well combined with fertilizing with organic fertilizers (mullein or bird droppings diluted with water by 10 and 20 times, respectively).
Don't forget about already grown plants. In early May, it is necessary to loosen the soil in trunk circles under fruit trees and berry bushes. But loosen no deeper than 10 cm, so as not to damage the roots. You can add a layer wood ash or organics, cover the soil under the bushes for a while with a film or other dense material. This will significantly reduce the number of pests, and the ash will serve as a good top dressing for plants.
Treat trees and shrubs with pesticides. You can collect pests by hand, shaking them from the branches onto a covered film in the morning, at an air temperature of no higher than 8-10 degrees (at this time the bugs are "sleepy" and do not scatter). But such an environmentally friendly method is acceptable only for those who have the opportunity to be on the site permanently. You can also put trapping belts on the trunks of trees.
Like from a bush
You will also have to work hard with berry bushes in May. Bushes are planted and transplanted in basically the same way as trees.
Select the bushes you want to plant. Two days before transplanting, water the shrub well to soften the soil around the roots, and tie the branches with twine. Shrubs should be pruned after planting or transplanting to compensate for the loss of roots during digging; remove broken branches, shape the plant and water.
For all the trouble, do not forget about the raspberry bushes. It is necessary to worry about it in the first days of May. First of all, untie the shoots bent over for the winter. The tops should be cut along the first upper well-formed kidney. Broken and diseased shoots are removed without hemp. The remaining shoots are evenly distributed in a row, tied to a trellis or stakes.
Remove with secateurs 30% of the length of the shoots on the branches of blackcurrant and gooseberry. Pruning promotes the growth of lateral shoots, which will grow new harvest. But the tops of the branches of white and red currants are not touched at all.
Take care of disease prevention. For blackcurrants, cut off oval, unnaturally swollen buds affected by mites. Remove the ends of annual gooseberry sprouts infected with powdery mildew.
Later, when the blackcurrant begins to bloom, inspect it carefully, identifying bushes damaged by terry. During the flowering period, this very serious disease is most easily detected, which is spread by bud mites and aphids. Flowers in healthy bushes have wide sepals of pale green color, and in diseased ones - narrow sepals of purple color. After flowering, they do not fall off, but dry up and take the form of an asterisk. Berries are not tied.
Bushes damaged by terry are subject to uprooting. The disease is not transmitted through the soil, so new ones can be planted in place of uprooted bushes.
folk omens
May is cold - a year of grain.
Violet blossoms and willow blossoms indicate the beginning of the sowing of radishes, carrots, onions, dill and parsley.
The mountain ash has blossomed - it's time to sow cucumbers.
When the buds have blossomed on the peony, cucumbers, pumpkins and zucchini can be sown in open ground.
The first flowers of daffodils can serve as a sign that it is time to start sowing early radish, plant seedlings of kohlrabi and Savoy cabbage in open ground. After a few days, you can sow peas, as well as plant white and cauliflower.
After cherry blossoms, savory is sown, when chestnuts bloom, beans and summer varieties of radishes and radishes are sown.
During the flowering of lilacs, summer head lettuce is sown, and a few days later - early cucumbers.
As soon as the leaves appeared on the birch, it's time to plant potatoes.
seasoned advice
Simple sorrel favors the rapid restoration of damage on trees. Cut it and immediately bandage the wound with a thickness of 1-1.5 cm. Repeat this procedure throughout the summer 2-3 times.
To protect the resulting strawberries from decay and dirt, lay a film, straw, dry grass, and thick paper along the beds.
During frosts, be sure to carefully cover the strawberries, because its flowers freeze slightly even in the bud stage.
Ants love to eat blackcurrant ovaries. To protect against them, spread rags soaked in kerosene under the bushes. Ants cannot stand this smell, like many others, including useful insects, so do not water the ground under the bush with kerosene!
Start mowing your lawn regularly from the end of May. At first, until I got stronger root system grass, it is better not to walk on the lawn. Can be sown damaged areas. It's not too late to lay a new lawn.
Attract bees to the garden: their presence will ensure pollination of plants. To do this, along the fences and in other places, sow nectar-bearing spicy plants, as well as dill, mustard, and clover. They will also attract lacewings, hoverflies, riders, ladybugs to the garden.
Green manure plants sown under trees "survive" some pests and get rid of diseases. For example, aphids do not like nasturtium, and garlic saves from fungal diseases and voles.
Spring is the most popular period of time for gardeners to plant vegetation. It is in spring that most plants are planted in open ground: from herbaceous annuals to tree and shrub species.
What age trees and shrubs can be planted in spring
In the spring, young plants are usually planted and transplanted. As a rule, these are seedlings aged 1-3 years. There is an opinion that the younger the seedling, the faster it takes root.
If you intend to plant mature trees up to 2 m high on your site, then keep in mind that slow-growing breeds that are 12-20 years old are the easiest to transplant.
Fast-growing species can be transplanted up to 10 years, and fruit trees - up to 8-16 years, depending on the species. For shrubs, the age limit for transplantation also depends on the specific species.
As for large-sized ones from 2 m and above, then the best time for their transplantation - frosty winter days. In winter, the earth is frozen and the earthy clod of a tree does not crumble during excavation, which makes it possible to transplant a large-sized tree without significant damage to the root system.
Laying a new garden
Let's say you are going to mortgage new garden and have already purchased seedlings. You have a planting plan (scheme), you know which plants, where to plant, how to arrange them relative to each other and relative to the sun. The last question remains: “When will it be possible to plant them in the ground?”.
There are some differences in planting hardwood and conifers. In addition, the planting time also depends on which seedlings you purchased - with a closed or open root system.
Hardwood planting
For seedlings with a closed root system, purchased in containers or simply with an earthy clod, there are no strict time limits for planting. They can be planted from spring to autumn. The main thing is to provide them with proper care for the first time after landing.
However, the most optimal time for planting plants with a closed root system - the end of May - the beginning of June, when the growth of the roots is characterized by increased activity. By the way, they take root better than seedlings with bare roots, because. in this case, damage to the roots is practically excluded.
Plants with an open root system can be planted while they are at a stage of relative dormancy, i.e. the buds have not yet swollen and have not started to grow. In time, this is approximately the end of April - the beginning of May. If planting is carried out in the fall, then only after the trees have shed their leaves and nature begins to fall asleep.
It is advisable to plant seedlings with exposed roots immediately after purchase. If it is necessary to postpone this event for a while, then you can temporarily dig them in some shaded place: put them in a shallow hole at a slight angle and carefully cover the roots with soil.
Planting conifers
Coniferous and evergreens tolerate transplant worse than hardwoods. Therefore, it is recommended to start planting them at more early dates, slightly earlier than deciduous.
Coniferous trees and shrubs should only be transplanted with a closed root system. Be careful not to buy coniferous seedlings with bare roots, without an earthen clod.
In addition, it is safer to buy those seedlings that were originally grown in containers, and were not transplanted into them shortly before the sale.
If coniferous seedlings are grown in open field, then they are transplanted into a container for subsequent transportation and sale. And in the process of all these actions, any mistakes can be made, which later, after planting the plants in a permanent place, can lead to certain problems. Especially if transportation is provided for many kilometers from the place of excavation.
It is possible to reduce the degree of risk by directly transplanting conifers directly from soil to soil, and in the shortest time. The most optimal time for digging coniferous seedlings from the ground is the period before the start of the growing season, i.e. in early spring. And the faster you plant them in a permanent place, the more likely it is that the plants will successfully take root.
What else affects the landing time
If your region has severe winters with little snow or clayey, highly compacted soil in your area, then in this case it is recommended to plant trees and shrubs in spring.
Since if planted in the fall, there is a risk that the plants will not have time to take root before winter. Moreover, heat-loving breeds should be planted only after the late spring frosts have passed.
When to cook holes
Pits and soil for planting trees and shrubs can be prepared in advance, 2-3 weeks in advance. But it is best to cook them in the fall, especially if the soil in your area is not light, i.e. clayey or loamy.
They dig holes for this. required size, the excavated earth, if necessary, is mixed with sand and poured back into the pits. Over the winter, the soil in the pit will settle just to the right level. late autumn put into the pits organic fertilizers, and in the spring they loosen the soil and apply mineral fertilizers.
The spring planting period is short
It is not worth delaying the spring planting of trees and shrubs, because. time for its implementation is very limited. As soon as the ground thaws, plants can be planted in the ground. But only until the moment when active growth kidneys. And this period lasts only about 3 weeks and in temperate latitudes it falls in mid-April - early May.
Well, if you are suddenly late with spring planting, do not worry, most plants can be planted both in spring and in autumn. And, by the way, in the fall, the period of a possible landing lasts much longer - 1.5-2 months.
Green spaces are always excellent decoration of any landscape, they evoke pleasant associations in us, help to relax and have a beneficial effect on overall well-being.
The optimal time for planting seedlings in middle lane- Spring. Deadline is usually April. Choice spring period obvious - by the autumn, when the cold sets in, the plants will already get stronger and will be able to successfully transfer them. Both trees and shrubs are planted in pre-prepared holes. At the bottom of the pits, the earth is loosened and the bottom is covered with soil mixtures for better plant growth. In order for the stem of the plant to grow straight, a stake is driven into the center of the hole, to which the seedling is tied. This keeps it from breaking by the wind, and also gives it an even shape, preventing it from bending.
Planting trees in the spring has other benefits as well. One of them - fruit trees and shrubs planted in spring (in April) will begin to bear fruit a year earlier than those in autumn. You also have time to calmly think over and prepare everything for work in winter: pick up trees, dig holes, plan a site and choose the right time.
Timing
Spring planting of trees and shrubs begins in April, when the earth has already thawed from the winter cold, and is able to accept a seedling without destroying it. In the spring, the seedling should be watered when planting, and then again a day later. If the weather is dry, you need to water the tree often so that it starts.
Do right choice types of trees for planting, correct timing, as well as to carry out all preparatory and landing work Sovereign studio specialists will help you. For different types plants are required different conditions - different depth holes, different soil and watering. Specialists will be able to correctly take into account all the criteria so that green spaces fit organically into the design concept of your site, complementing it with aesthetics and beauty. In addition, by entrusting this work to professionals, you can be sure that the plants will be planted in compliance with all the rules, they will be well accepted and grow healthy and strong.
Our studio provides the above services at a professional level in Moscow and the Moscow region. We know the characteristics of different types of plants, and we will be able to select those that will decorate the landscape of your garden, plot or lawn. Turning to us, you will not waste time on unsuccessful attempts to plant trees or shrubs on your own and immediately get a 100% result.
Every gardener wants to see his garden healthy, beautiful and abundantly fruitful. pledge good growth, lush flowering and getting the harvest is a properly carried out planting fruit trees spring.
Unfortunately, the site owner does not always take this procedure responsibly, choosing the first available place for the tree, somehow organizing landing pit or spacing the seedlings too often, not considering their growth. Wait early fruiting and good harvest in this case is not necessary. How and when to plant seedlings of fruit trees in spring? Are there any secrets that allow plants to take root faster and start growing?
Planting dates for seedlings of fruit trees in spring
First of all, it is worth clarifying the timing of planting plants. The literature often indicates that for tree seedlings, the preferred autumn planting, however, keep in mind that this recommendation applies to the southern regions.
In the conditions of a long warm autumn, winter-hardy trees and shrubs have time to acclimatize and take root, enduring winter quite well and with early spring starting to grow. The further north is garden plot, the greater the risk of freezing of the tree.
Therefore, in the northern regions, planting of fruit trees in the spring is more often undertaken. At the same time, it is possible to save seedlings of even the most heat-loving crops, as well as successfully transfer plants with an open root system to the ground. True, such a landing has one feature. It should be carried out as early as possible so that the seedling meets the beginning of the growing season already in the soil on permanent place residence. Still "sleeping" trees are not sensitive to the active sun and possible frosts.
When to plant fruit trees and shrubs in the spring, on which foliage has already appeared? Indeed, today at the spring sales you can buy planting material already with opened buds and even leaves. Such bushes and trees cannot wait. But it's best to drop them off:
- upon the onset of stable heat, when there is no danger of frostbite of the shoots and root system, especially at night;
- in cloudy weather, when there is less risk of sunburn of the buds and foliage that is not accustomed to direct sun.
The specific dates for planting fruit trees and shrub seedlings in the spring depend on the climatic and weather characteristics of the region, the composition of the soil and the location of the site. As a rule, in the lowlands, snowmelt is less active, the soil dries out worse, which delays planting.
Whatever the time for planting seedlings of fruit trees in the spring, preparations for work begin in the fall, choosing a place for plants in advance and preparing planting pits.
The scheme of planting fruit trees and shrubs on the site
Looking for a place for the future orchard, it must be remembered that for plants it is extremely important not only soil fertility and, but also lighting. For young plants, the site is selected so that the seedlings are in the light for at least half a day. At the same time, for fragile trees, it is necessary to provide protection from the cold wind.
For speedy acclimatization, it is advised to plant fruit plants the way they grew up in the nursery. It is possible to determine the orientation of a tree along the cardinal points, starting from the age of two, along the length of the side shoots. On the south side, they are usually better developed than on the north.
But how to plant a seedling of a fruit tree in the spring if a three-year-old or older plant with an asymmetric crown was brought from the nursery? In this case, it is more useful to deploy it so that the short branches look south. In a couple of years, taking into account corrective pruning, the crown will become uniform and correct.
Mastering new plot, novice summer residents often make a serious mistake. When planting fruit trees in spring, they do not take into account that the height, width of the crown and the characteristics of agricultural technology in the planted species can be very different. The young garden looks well-groomed and grows together, but after a few years it turns out that a large pear completely obscured the undersized ones, and cherries are not visible under the crowns berry bushes.
Even at the planning stage, the exact layout of the trees is determined. The health of the plants and the yield they bring will subsequently depend on this plan.
How to determine when landing minimum distance between fruit trees?
When measuring the distance between seedlings, they are guided by the total value of the height of neighboring adult trees. For example, a fruit-bearing cherry reaches a height of three meters, which means that there must be at least six meters between neighboring trees of the same species and variety. This will create all the conditions for development, as a result of:
- the crowns of grown trees will not overlap and will not shade each other;
- nothing will stop pollination flowering trees, growth and filling of fruits;
- much easier to care for the crop and harvest.
In addition, with such planting of fruit trees and shrubs on the site, the risk of infection of the garden with fungal infections and insect damage is seriously reduced.
How to plant seedlings of fruit trees in spring?
It is not enough to purchase high-quality planting material. Any seedling can die if the preparation for its planting was carried out "slipshod". The planting of fruit trees scheduled for spring suggests that the pits for them will be laid in the fall. If this cannot be done, and the summer resident takes the shovel in the spring, then at least two weeks should pass from the moment the pit is laid until the roots of the tree fall into it.
Two- or three-year-olds, pears, plums and others stone fruits they differ little in size, so they dig a hole under them at least 80 cm in diameter and the same depth. When planting a plant with a closed root system, it is convenient to focus on the size of the container, making the hole 15–20 cm wider and deeper.
To tie up a new garden dweller, a strong support is immediately driven into the bottom of the pit, which will help the plant maintain its verticality in the coming years.
Oddly enough, caring for a fruit tree does not begin after planting, but before it, with fertilizing and preparing the soil into which the seedling will fall. From autumn, fresh manure can be brought into the pit, which will overheat during the winter and will not have a burning effect on the roots of the tree. If the soil in the area is too acidic, it is lime or mixed with dolomite flour. If necessary, excessively dense soil is mixed with sand, and fertile black soil is added to the sandy loam.
H so that during planting in the spring the seedling of the fruit tree does not come into contact with manure or granular products, a layer of fertilizers is sprinkled a small amount fertile soil.
How are fruit trees planted in prepared pits in spring? Step by step:
- The roots of plants with an open root system are straightened, if necessary, soaked overnight to restore tone to wilted areas.
- On a cone fertile soil the seedling is installed so that the roots are freely located in the pit, and the root neck is five centimeters above the soil surface. You can check the correct installation of the seedling with a shovel.
- The tree is sprinkled with soil, avoiding voids between the roots and under the trunk.
Planting a seedling with a closed root system is much easier. You just need to put a moistened earthen clod in a pit, check the level of the neck and sprinkle the voids with a substrate. At the end of the procedure, young trees and shrubs must be watered.
A video about planting seedlings of fruit trees in the spring will help you figure out the intricacies of the process on your own. Attentive attention to the needs of the plant and careful preparation will be a guarantee that the theoretical knowledge gained will be useful in practice.
Rules for planting seedlings - video
Fruit trees and shrubs can be planted in spring and autumn. Best result receive at spring planting apple trees, pears, plums, cherries and sweet cherries, and currants, gooseberries and raspberries - in autumn.
From proper fit trees largely depends on their survival, further growth and fruiting. It is known that in some cases poor growth and even the death of seedlings are caused only by improper planting.
Pits are dug one and a half to two weeks before planting, so that the soil has time to weather. The diameter of the pit is 60-100 cm (depending on the size of the seedling), the depth is 60-70 cm. 2-4 buckets of humus or decomposed peat-manure compost are added to each pit. Mineral fertilizers insertion is not recommended. They make it difficult for seedlings to take root.
Available organic fertilizers are divided into two parts. One part, mixed with the top layer of soil, is poured to the bottom of the pit, filling it halfway in the form of a mound, the second half of the humus (compost) is poured directly to the roots of the tree when planting. On sandy soils, a layer of loam or clay flavored with humus, 5 cm thick, is laid at the bottom of the pit.
Landing is more convenient to do together. One person holds the seedling, carefully spreads the roots along the mound, and the second one throws earth on the roots, starting from the edges of the pit, and carefully compacts it with his foot. So that there is no void between the roots, the seedling is shaken, seeking to fill the voids with earth. To fill the pit, use only the top fertile soil layer. After landing, along the borders former pit pour a roller to form a hole.
Basic rules for planting seedlings
1. The seedling must be placed on the north side of the stake. In this case, the stake will protect the tree from sunburn at noon.
2. The roots of the seedling should be covered with the upper (more nutritious) layer of soil enriched with fertilizers, if it is lacking, add the top layer of soil from the side (from row spacing).
3. In no case should you put fresh, unripe manure on the bottom of the pit. It can only be placed in top layer soil over the roots along the edges of the hole.
4. When backfilling the pit, the roots must be straightened, the soil under them must be tamped, preventing the formation of voids around the roots.
5. Falling asleep in a hole, gradually trample down the soil (especially along the edges).
6. As soon as all the roots are covered with soil by 10-15 cm, water the tree with two buckets of water and fill the hole with soil to the top.
7. When planting, the seedling must be straightened, giving it a vertical position.
8. Do not drive a stake after planting a tree, as this can damage the roots. The stake is driven into the bottom of the hole before the tree is planted. After planting, the stake must be cut down so that it does not reach the first branch in the crown, otherwise the branches will come into contact with it and be damaged by the wind.
9. It must be remembered that deep planting is harmful to the normal growth of the seedling. After the earth settles in the pit, the root neck should be at the level of the soil surface. You can not plant high, as the roots uncovered by the soil can dry out and the tree will die.
10. In damp places with close occurrence ground water trees are planted on elevated soil mounds.
11. After planting (on the same day), seedlings are pruned. One-year-olds of apple and pear varieties grafted on vigorous and medium-sized rootstocks are cut to the crown at a height of 70-80 cm, on dwarf ones - 65-70 cm.
It is necessary to monitor the correct tying of seedlings to the stake. If the garter cuts into the bark, it is weakened.