Fertilizer system for different soils: application and doses. How to use humus correctly

How to fertilize the land in the fall, if there is no manure? This question is asked by many gardeners. After all, autumn is the perfect time to fertilize. AT winter period the soil rests, and all the organisms that are in it allow you to process useful components. In addition, fertilizing in the fall allows you to prepare the garden and garden for spring.

Synthetic or natural

After harvesting, it is necessary for the next season. However, not all summer residents know how to fertilize the land in the fall if there is no manure? Someone thinks that it is better to use several complex mixes at once. And someone, on the contrary, recommends using various fertilizers separately. This is the wrong approach. After all, some natural and synthetic additives can lose most of their useful properties during the winter.

In order to use fertilizers correctly, you need to know exactly which one can be applied to the soil in the fall, and which one should be left until spring. In addition, it should be noted that not all additives are universal. Some can only be used for trees, while others can only be used for soil intended for planting. vegetable crops.

bird droppings

So, how to fertilize the land in the fall, if there is no manure. Bird droppings are considered the most concentrated organic fertilizer. This dressing is ideal for strawberries. However, it is very difficult to apply such fertilizer in spring and summer. After all, bird droppings are a caustic substance that can ruin a plant. Especially if the solution got on the roots of the bush. In addition, top dressing must be carefully prepared. Bird droppings are fermented, then defended and diluted with water.

It is best to use this fertilizer in the fall. Such organic matter can be introduced into the soil, which will then be dug up. Bird droppings do not need to be prepared and bred. Moreover, there is no need to fertilize annually. In addition, it can adversely affect the condition of the plants. It is better to bring bird droppings into the ground once every few years.

Compost application

How to fertilize the land in the fall, if there is no manure and bird droppings? In this case, many summer residents use compost, distributing it throughout the site. Often such fertilizer is dug up along with the soil. You can also cover the ground with compost in a continuous layer just before plowing. However, according to experts, these are not the most effective methods.

After the entire crop has been removed from the beds, all weeds should be weeded out. After that, the soil does not need to be dug up. It should be covered with a uniform layer of compost. In conclusion, it is recommended to pour the supplement with an EM preparation, previously diluted in accordance with the instructions. After processing, the earth should be loosened with a Fokin flat cutter and not touched until spring. This method of composting allows you to maintain soil fertility. The earth does not turn sour.

What plants are suitable for

Thanks to this top dressing in the spring, additional top dressing is not necessary. Suitable fertilizer for potatoes. In autumn, compost is distributed over the site, and tubers are planted in spring. Harvest dates are shifted by about 2 weeks. It should be noted that this fertilizer is suitable for all early vegetable crops.

What fertilizers to apply in the fall under fruit trees? Many advise using compost. After all, the garden also needs additional nutrition. It should be noted that such a substrate is often used to protect the root zone of all fruit trees. To do this, the compost is laid in a fairly thick layer around the trunk along the entire diameter. Fertilizer is left here until spring. When the first warm days come, the soil near the trunks must be carefully loosened. Thanks to such manipulations, the useful components contained in the substrate penetrate deep into the soil and begin to nourish the roots of trees and shrubs.

Is it worth using ash

Apply organic fertilizers in the fall to the soil should be wisely. Ashes should also be attributed to natural dressings. This substance is rich in potassium. It is usually applied to heavy, clay soils. If the soil is soft, then it makes no sense to use quality. It will be washed out by spring meltwater from the soil structure. As for the application rate, then 1 square meter only a glass of ash is required.

It is worth noting that this fertilizer is ideal not only for replenishing potassium reserves in the soil, but also for combating some pests that can cause severe harm to certain crops. To do this, the area that will be used for planting garlic and onions must be carefully sprinkled with ash. This should be done on the last warm autumn days. The ash should cover the beds with a fairly dense layer at least 1 centimeter thick.

This organic fertilizer can be used to protect winter garlic and onions. In this case, the amount of ash is recommended to be reduced. The thickness of the layer should be no more than 20 millimeters.

Superphosphate

What fertilizers are applied in the fall to the soil? This may not only be organic top dressing but also synthetic. For example, superphosphate. The main component of this compound is phosphorus. This substance is heavier than the rest dissolves in the soil. Therefore, it is recommended to make such supplements in the fall. Phosphate fertilizers represent the main group of fats. For 6 months, the active component has time to completely dissolve. AT summer period Phosphorus is an excellent nutrient base for any plant.

How much to deposit

Fertilizers for digging in the fall should be applied in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. If there are no instructions on the package, then you should adhere to the following rules:

1. Monophosphate (simple superphosphate) - 40 to 50 grams are required per 1 m 2.
2. Double superphosphate - 20 to 30 grams are required per 1 m 2.
3. Superphosphate granulated - 1 m 2 requires from 35 to 40 grams.

As for ammoniated superphosphate, it is not used for autumn application. After all, such a fertilizer is enriched with nitrogen, which is lost during the winter. Many experts recommend adding preparations containing potassium to the soil along with superphosphates. Without this component, phosphorus will not dissolve well.

Is it possible to use phosphate rock

So, what fertilizers are applied in the fall to the soil? This list includes phosphate rock. It is used for fertilizing impoverished and leached chernozems, which are being prepared for spring liming. This supplement has natural origin. These are crushed rocks.

Many experts recommend applying such fertilizers for digging in the fall along with manure. This contributes to a better dissolution of phosphorus in the soil. In addition, it is not suitable for every plant, as it contains calcium. The main advantage of the supplement is the natural composition. This fertilizer is absolutely safe for humans.

Organic fertilizer - urea

Fertilizing the soil in autumn important process. For these purposes, you can use urea. It refers to nitrogen supplements. The second name of the substance is urea. The main active ingredient is nitrogen of the amide form. Thanks to this component, urea can be applied to the soil in the fall. After all, during this period to use nitrogen fertilizers it makes no sense. As for urea, the main substance in it is contained in the amide form. This prevents nitrogen from leaving the soil.

How to use urea

So, what fertilizers to apply in the fall under fruit trees, and which ones to use for beds? Urea is usually used in combination with phosphorus additives. Of course, nitrogen fertilizer can be applied in the spring. However, the time for this will be much less. To fertilize the soil, superphosphate should be neutralized with limestone or chalk. In this case, it is worth observing the proportions. For 1 kilogram of superphosphate, 100 grams of limestone or chalk is required. Two parts of carbamide should be added to one part of such a mixture. The mixture should be mixed and then applied to the soil. For 1 m 2, from 120 to 150 grams of the finished composition is required.

As for fruit trees, urea in combination with manure should be used for top dressing. In this case, the amount of carbamide should be less. For 1 m 2, from 40 to 50 grams will be enough. In this case, it is worth considering which tree the fertilizer will be applied under. For example, to feed an apple tree, 40 grams of superphosphate, 70 grams of urea and 5 buckets of animal organics are required.

Potassium sulfate

Fertilizing the soil in autumn is of particular importance. Calcium sulphate is an additive that is used in combination with phosphate and nitrogen supplements. Such a preparation is often used to fertilize the soil around gooseberry, currant and raspberry bushes. In addition, the additive is suitable for fertilizing garden strawberries and strawberries.

Potassium sulphate, which was introduced into the soil in the fall, allows shrubs to easily overwinter. At the same time, the percentage of survival of horticultural crops increases even with severe frosts. As for the dosage, 1 m 2 requires no more than 30 grams of fertilizer.

Calcium chloride

A similar substance is used as a fertilizer for potatoes. In autumn, the drug is scattered over the fields. suitable for the soil to be applied for spring planting chlorine intolerant plants. This substance is an unstable element. Six months after the application of such a fertilizer, chlorine will partially disappear or dissolve in melt water. At the same time, calcium will be well preserved in the soil. It is recommended to apply no more than 20 grams of such fertilizer per 1 m 2.

Separately, microelements are applied to the ground in autumn period not recommended, since only a small part of them will remain by spring. As a result, the substances will not be able to affect the yield of plants.

Soil liming is a common method of chemical reclamation on acidic soils and consists in the application of lime fertilizers, most often represented by calcite, dolomite or limestone. Periodic liming of the soil is carried out in order to equalize the acid-base balance and eliminate the causes that inhibit plant growth.

What is the purpose of liming

Acidic soils, with rare exceptions, require proper and timely liming. Such soil treatment in the garden is very necessary for several reasons:

• the acidic environment of the soil disrupts the activity of phosphorus and nitrogen, as well as such an important microelement for the growth and development of plants as molybdenum;
• a significant amount of fertilizer has to be applied to acidic soil, which is due to a decrease in the effectiveness of beneficial microorganisms and an increase in the number of pathogenic microflora and bacteria that have Negative influence on plants;
• fertilizers in sufficient quantities do not reach the root system, and as a result, growth, development and vegetation are severely disrupted.

To neutralize the acid in the soil, they are deoxidized. As a rule, liming is performed for deoxidation, as a result of which calcium and magnesium are replaced. Lime causes acid to break down into salt, and carbon dioxide is the catalyst for this reaction.

However, it must be remembered that it is very dangerous to pour lime fertilizers uncontrollably. This can provoke an excess of calcium in the soil and make it difficult for the growth of the root system. Among other things, for the cultivation of certain vegetable crops and fruit trees, it is absolutely unnecessary to lime the ground. A slightly acidic environment with pH 6-7 is necessary for the following crops:

• beans;
• dill;
• tomatoes;
• eggplant;
• corn;
• melon;
• vegetable marrow;
• squash;
• horseradish;
• spinach;
• rhubarb;
• carrot;
• garlic;
• kale;
• radish;
• chicory;
• watermelon;

Medium acid soil with a pH of 5.0-6.5 is necessary for the following crops:

• potato
• pepper;
• beans;
• sorrel;
• parsnip;
• pumpkin.

Strongly acid soil with a pH of less than 5 is necessary for crops such as blueberries, cranberries, mountain ash, blueberries, lingonberries and junipers.

How to recognize acidic soils: proven methods

To know which deoxidizers need to be applied to the soil and how much, it is necessary to determine the level of acidity. For this purpose, the following methods are used:

• litmus strips treated with a special reagent and changing color depending on the acidity of the soil;
• Alyamovsky's device, represented by a set of reagents designed for the analysis of water and salt extracts of soil;
• soil meter, which is a multifunctional device that allows you to determine the reaction of the soil, its moisture content, temperature indicators and the level of illumination.

The most accurate and costly is the method of determining acidity in a specialized laboratory. Less effective methods are folk methods using acetic acid, currant or cherry leaves, as well as grape juice or chalk. Experienced gardeners and gardeners are able to determine the acidity through weeds on the site. Acid soil weeds include horsetail, plantain, heather, horse sorrel, nettle, white-bearded, oxalis, ranunculus and popovnik.

In what form and how much lime should be added

The best option for agricultural activities are slightly acidic soils, but on the territory of our country, lands with hyperacidity. Such properties are typical for soddy-podzolic, many peat-bog soils, gray forest lands, red soils and part of leached chernozems. Deoxidation is most often carried out with quicklime, but agents such as slaked lime or lime water. The application rate of lime per hundred square meters varies depending on the type of soil and acidification indicators:

• pH = 4 and below on clayey and dry clay soils requires deoxidation with ground limestone in the amount of 500-600 g per square meter;
• pH = 4 and below on sandy and sandy loam soils requires deoxidation with ground limestone in the amount of 300-400 g per square meter;
• pH = 4.1-4.5 on clay and loamy soils requires deoxidation with ground limestone in the amount of 400-500 g per square meter;
• pH = 4.1-4.5 on sandy and sandy loamy soils requires deoxidation with ground limestone in the amount of 250-300 g per square meter;
• pH = 4.6-5.0 on clay and loamy soils requires deoxidation with ground limestone in the amount of 300-400 g per square meter;
• pH = 4.6-5.0 on sandy and sandy loam soils requires deoxidation with ground limestone in the amount of 200-300 g per square meter;
• pH = 5.1-5.5 on clay and loamy soils requires deoxidation with ground limestone in the amount of 250-300 g per square meter.

The full dose must be applied to a depth of 20 cm, and partial deoxidation is carried out at a depth of 4-6 cm.

How is liming the soil in autumn

Deoxidation of the earth in autumn helps to effectively solve a number of very serious problems in a personal or garden plot:

• activation of vital activity of beneficial microorganisms, including nodule bacteria;
• soil enrichment with basic nutrients in the most accessible way for gardening and garden plants form;
• improvement physical properties land, including water permeability and structural features;
• increasing the efficiency of fertilizers of mineral and organic origin by 30-40%;
• reduction in the amount of the most toxic, harmful elements in the grown garden and vegetable products.

In autumn experienced gardeners and gardeners recommend using an available deoxidizer in the form of ordinary wood ash, which contains about 30-35% calcium. This option is popular due to the relatively high content in wood ash phosphorus, potassium and other trace elements that have a beneficial effect on the growth and development of garden plants.

Technology for processing the site with lime in the spring

• it is better to plan the event about three weeks before sowing or planting vegetables horticultural crops;
• for liming, it is optimal to use powdered products that are well distributed over the soil layers;
• a good result is the introduction of lime in early spring, immediately before the first loosening of the earth, introducing deoxidizers in small portions.

Important to remember, that any fertilizers, as well as basic biologically active additives, are applied to the soil only after liming. As practice shows, adding a couple of kilograms of pure lime mixed with high-quality humus is more effective than ten kilograms of lime flour, simply scattered over the garden area.

Features of primary and re-liming

The best and maximum effective way soil liming is carrying out liming on initial stage development personal plot or when laying the territory of garden plantings. If for some reason liming has not been carried out before, it is allowed to carry out high-quality deoxidation in areas that are already occupied by fruit and berry crops or garden and flowering plants.

A significant part of the plants grown in home gardening and horticulture quite easily tolerates liming, regardless of the time of year. The only exception is garden strawberries. The beds intended for growing such a berry crop can be limed about a year and a half before planting. On ridges with garden strawberries already planted, deoxidation is performed no earlier than a couple of months after planting.

Re-liming of the soil is carried out necessarily in full doses once every ten years. Small doses of deoxidizers may be applied more frequently. Very important correctly determine the need for re-liming in accordance with the characteristics of the soil and the features of its care. With frequent use of fertilizing with manure, re-liming can be neglected, and the frequent use of mineral fertilizers makes deoxidation a necessary measure.

The most effective is the most uniform liming of soils, therefore it is recommended to introduce deoxidizers into the ground, represented by powdered compositions, and it is also necessary to accompany such events with digging with uniform mixing.

In the spring, when nature awakens, summer residents begin to become more active, because for them it is a hot time. In order to get a rich harvest in the fall, you should prepare under early spring, including choosing the right ones and observing the right dosages.

It is important to consider the needs to be landed on And if for experienced gardeners such a process is not difficult, it can be difficult for beginners in this business to choose the right effective

There are also disadvantages to this. In particular, an imbalance of nutrients is possible. Also in this form of feeding there can be seeds, and even organics can sometimes cause and be a kind of magnet for toxins. Nevertheless, organic fertilizers do not lose their popularity, since the benefits from them are much greater than the harm.

When choosing organics, it is highly recommended to use. Any gardener can prepare it. For this, on a plot of 10 sq. m. straw should be scattered, the layer thickness should be about 15 cm. A layer 20 cm thick is laid out on top, and at the end - a 20 cm layer.

You can sprinkle all this with lime and phosphate rock, at the rate of 55–60 g of the mixture per 1 sq. m. From above you need to lay out a layer again and cover all layers with a thin ball. After 7-8 months, an effective organic fertilizer will be ready for use.

Important! is not good view garden fertilizers. The fact is that when it gets into moist and warm soil, it actively begins to decompose, as a result of which heat is released. Because of this, the entire crop can simply “burn out”. That is why in fresh it is used only as a fertilizer for stronger crops, while it is diluted in water and only then the aisles are watered. You can also dry it first and then sprinkle it between rows. thin layer.

Another way to apply manure to the soil in spring is to let it stand for a year. After resting, it is converted to . But here it is worth remembering that manure, like manure, decomposes better when it is not in its pure form, but mixed with leaves, straw or.

It is known that in organic matter only a small part of nitrogen is soluble. Once the compost is placed in the ground, it is attacked by myriads of earth dwellers who eat it, transforming the compost and decomposing it in the process. It is thanks to such actions of microorganisms that nitrogen passes from an insoluble form to a soluble one, after which everything depends on the growth of the ground part of the plant culture. For example, it quickly absorbs nitrogen, which was prepared for it by microorganisms, which cannot be said about. It grows slowly at first, and only in mid-July does its rapid deciduous growth begin. Based on such data, you need to build a feeding schedule.

Minerals

It is usually much easier to work with than with organic ones. They are presented for sale immediately in a finished, concentrated form. In addition, there is always an instruction in the package, where there are useful advice on the use of the drug and the exact dosage is indicated. However, care must be taken here as well. You should focus on the needs of the garden culture, as well as on the features of the site itself.

Some gardeners are very critical of, based on the fact that this is “chemistry” and there will only be harm from it to the site and crops. One cannot but agree that the structure of the soil really will not improve from minerals, only organic matter is needed here. But a significant advantage mineral type fertilizer is that plants will have direct access to a group of all the necessary substances, to and in particular.

And drugs that have in their composition will very effectively affect the rate of fruit ripening. If you use a complex remedy, which includes 2 or more elements, then it will be able to fully meet the nutritional needs.
Granular nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers should be applied to the soil before it. So useful material will be located as close as possible to the roots of plants. The recommended depth is about 20 cm.

What mineral fertilizers summer residents apply in the spring directly depends on the type of site and the varieties of crops that will be planted there. Complex preparations are commercially available in the form of a liquid and in the form of granules. It is necessary to use granular products, strictly observing the dosage.

Usually on a plot of 10 square meters. m. should be applied 300-350 g (,), you also need to add about 250 g of phosphorus fertilizer and 200 g. The latter, by the way, is quite acceptable to replace the usual.

Organic fertilizers soften the soil, making it loose and less acidic. Manure has a positive effect on the crop, often even 5 years after application. You just need to know the rules when to do it and how much it needs to be applied to the site.

Timing

It is necessary to fertilize the land with manure at a certain time. This fertilizer has a decomposition period - if it is not taken into account, garden crops may die.

Source: Depositphotos

Knowing when to fertilize won't harm your plantings

Fertilize the soil with manure should be no more than 1 time in 3 years. This should be done during autumn digging or early spring. In autumn, fresh or slightly overripe organic matter is introduced. In this case, it is necessary to dig up the earth. Well-rotted manure is best planted in the soil in spring.

When manure is introduced into the soil, its biological activity increases. At the same time, nutrients necessary for crops are formed.

It is better to apply this fertilizer to the soil in such years when it often rains. In such weather, nitrogen and useful trace elements go into the lower layers of the soil, and manure, decomposing, contributes to the flow of elements to plants. If you fertilize the earth in hot weather, you can burn the roots of garden crops. In such weather, it is better to use rotted manure.

rules

It is better to apply completely rotted fertilizer to the ground. It is the most nutritious for plants. But there are some cultures that love fresh manure. To taste, this fertilizer is pumpkin, cucumber, celery, zucchini. At the same time, it does not matter from what type of livestock the manure will be obtained - in any case, it will “warm up” the roots of the culture, accelerate its growth and development.

How much manure to apply depends on the cultivation of the soil. Agronomists recommend 1 sq. m of land to apply up to 5 kg of fertilizer. If the site is just being developed and has poor soil, then this dose can be doubled.

Scattering manure on the surface of the earth is not worth it, as the fertilizer loses nutrients.

The depth of manure incorporation depends on the composition of the soil and moisture content. On heavy and damp soils, manure is placed to a depth of 15 cm. Light, sandy, quickly absorbing moisture soils require manure to be incorporated to the entire depth of the cultivated layer. A good incorporation of organic fertilizer contributes to the warming and loosening of the dug up earth.

Manure is used to fertilize the soil so that nitrogen and other useful trace elements enter the plants. To maximize the benefits, it is worth letting fresh manure lie down for several years.

A good harvest can only be obtained on good land, and in order for the land to be good, it must be fertilized. When is the best time to fertilize- spring or autumn? Timing the application of fertilizer to the soil is of great importance. Many agronomists believe that those who fertilize the land with manure taken out in winter make a big mistake. The benefit is minimal. Fertilize the soil in spring, leaving the manure to lie for a month and a half before plowing. In this case, the fertilizer efficiency will almost double. About varieties, timing of application to the soil and effectiveness various kinds fertilizers and will be discussed in this article.

All fertilizers are divided into 3 main groups: organic, mineral and organo-mineral fertilizers.

organic fertilizers

They, in turn, are also divided into 2 groups: animal origin and vegetable origin. Vegetable fertilizers include composts and peat, and animals include manure and bird droppings. When fertilizing with organic substances, the structure of the soil is significantly improved and this contributes to the reproduction of living organisms that benefit both the soil itself and plants. There are also some disadvantages - an imbalance of nutrients can occur, weed seeds can come across in such a fertilizer, and organic matter can cause plant diseases and attract toxic substances.

If you decide to use organic fertilizers, then it is better to use compost. It is prepared quite simply: on an area of ​​\u200b\u200babout 10 square meters. meters, straw 15 cm thick is laid out, then a layer of manure - 20 cm, a layer of peat - 15-20 cm. Phosphorite flour and lime are poured on top, mixed in a 1: 1 ratio. For 1 sq. meter should be poured 50-60 grams of the mixture. A layer of manure 15-20 thick is again covered from above. All layers are covered with a thin layer of soil and kept for 7-8 months.

With regard to fertilizing with manure, in our time the number of cattle has been greatly reduced, and therefore we have to look for an alternative. As plant products for fertilizer, you can use everything that grows and rots: cut grass, fallen leaves, tops and weeds, etc.

It is impossible to fertilize the land with fresh manure. Getting into warm and humid soil, such fertilizer begins to actively decompose and release heat and gases, so the crop can simply “burn out”. Fresh manure is used only for feeding mature plants, diluting it with water and watering the aisles. You can also use dried manure, pouring it in a thin layer between the rows.

It is better to use manure if it has lain for at least a year - during this time it decomposes and turns into humus. It is worth remembering that in its pure form manure and chicken manure rot worse, so it is better to dilute these animal waste products with straw, foliage, sawdust and even shredded waste paper (it is better to take paper without printing ink).
AT organic fertilizer, as you know, a smaller part of nitrogen is in a soluble form, and a large part is part of the insoluble organic compounds. When compost hits the soil, myriads of soil dwellers pounce on it, eating, decomposing, and transforming it. As a result of the activity of microorganisms, insoluble nitrogen gradually turns into a soluble form, which was shown by the analyzes: immediately after the introduction of compost into the soil, the content of soluble nitrogen begins to rise steadily. And then it all depends on the growth rate of the aerial parts of plants. In potatoes, this process is so intense that it “eats away” all the nitrogen prepared for it by soil organisms, therefore, under potatoes, the content of available nitrogen in the soil remains low until early August and begins to rise only when the potato tops stop their violent growth. On carrots, where haulm growth is slow at first, the nitrogen content was quite high until mid-July, and then decreased in line with increased leaf growth.

When fertilizing in autumn plant nutrients are part of the soil organo-mineral complex, and the whole next season the plant lives due to the gradual disintegration of this complex and the release of available nutrients. The speed of this process depends on the activity of the microflora, which is determined external conditions: soil moisture, temperature, looseness and so on.

In addition, organic fertilizer serves as a source of substances necessary for the formation of humus for soil microorganisms. When applied in autumn, organic fertilizer decomposes more slowly, and the process of its incorporation into humus proceeds more intensively and to a greater extent contributes to increasing soil fertility. If you regularly add compost or manure to the soil in the fall, you can create real black soil in your garden. When applied in spring, organic fertilizer decomposes faster and better supplies plants with soluble nutrients. This is important for plants, since spring and early summer are their period. active growth requiring abundant nutrition. Thus, autumn organic fertilizer contributes more to soil fertility, and spring - to plant nutrition. Both are important.

It goes without saying that this is the solution: we apply compost or manure in the fall, and in spring and summer we feed the plants liquid fertilizers which are easy to make: mullein infusion, fermented nettle infusion or any weeds. To enrich these nitrogen-rich infusions with phosphorus and potassium, bone or phosphate rock and ash are added to them. Another option is to apply most or even half of the compost in the fall, and the rest in the spring.

You can use green top dressing. The main raw material common grass, weeds. The green mass is finely chopped, put in a large container and poured warm water(10 liters of water per 2 kilograms of grass). All this should be fermented for 2 - 3 days, after which you need to stir and strain the solution. Then they feed the plants with the calculation of 3 - 4 liters per 1 square meter. It is necessary to perform the procedure 2 - 3 times with an interval of a week. This solution is useful for vegetable and berry crops, it not only nourishes them, but also protects them from pests and diseases.

Mineral fertilizers

These chemical substances should be used carefully and strictly according to the norm. Usually gardeners and gardeners use nitrogen, potash, manganese, lime and other types of such fertilizers. The most common nitrogen fertilizers include saltpeter, urea, ammonia water and ammonia. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied twice a year - the first time around mid-April, and the second time - in mid-November. The way they are applied is the same in both seasons - fertilizers are scattered by hand, and then the land is cultivated. It is better if the earth is moist at the same time.
Potash fertilizers also significantly increase yields. Usually, potassium in the soil is in a hard-to-reach form, so the need for plants in it is great. Bring in potash fertilizers better in the autumn period, together with manure before the main cultivation of the land.

Phosphate fertilizers are also important for plants. Without this element, the formation of chlorophyll in plants is impossible, therefore, the application of such fertilizers not only increases the yield, but also improves the quality of plant products. Phosphorus fertilizers are scattered on the surface of the soil, and then they dig it up to a depth of about 20 centimeters.

With mineral fertilizer we get the following picture. Immediately after the introduction, a sharp jump in the content of soluble nitrogen was observed: it increased by 5-6 times compared to the initial one and kept at high level until about mid-July. Analyzes showed that at some point there was three times more soluble nitrogen in the soil than was applied with mineral fertilizer. This phenomenon is explained by the fact that mineral fertilizer stimulates the decomposition of soil organic matter and accelerates the release of soluble nitrogen from it. The decay of humus under the influence of mineral fertilizers is a phenomenon that has even received a special name: the priming effect. But in the middle of summer, the peak is replaced by a sharp drop, and the content of soluble nitrogen in both cases - with organic and mineral fertilizers - becomes the same.

It is not difficult to guess what consequences this has for plants. On mineral fertilizers, they grow more intensively, develop abundant leaf mass and give a correspondingly higher yield, although different cultures this applies to a different extent: spinach and potatoes gave a significantly higher yield on mineral fertilizers than on compost, while beans and carrots turned out to be less dependent on nitrogen.

However, when studying the quality of the crop, the advantage turned out to be on the side organic fertilizer. This was manifested in a lower nitrate content, and most importantly, in a significant reduction in storage losses. Both potatoes and carrots grown on organic fertilizers were less affected by fungal diseases.

Mineral fertilizers do not increase soil fertility, but rather destroy it. They can be used for top dressing, but only in very moderate doses so as not to cause excessive growth of leaves and not disrupt the activity of soil microflora. Moreover, it is worth making mineral fertilizers only under the condition of autumn application. organic fertilizers, since the soil with a high content of organic matter partially removes negative impact mineral fertilizers.

Organo-mineral fertilizers

They are humic compositions of mineral and organic substances. Each drug is used for individual scheme, but there is also general rules. For open soil spraying is used, and for closed - surface irrigation, drip irrigation, sprinkling and manual spraying on the leaves. For seed treatment, 300-700 ml of fertilizers are used per ton of seeds, for foliar feeding - 200-400 mm per 1 hectare of crops, for spraying - 5-10 ml per 10 liters of water, and for drip irrigation- 20-40 ml per 1000 liters of water for irrigation.

Separately, it is worth mentioning plants that improve the soil. These include rape, oil radish, rapeseed, turnip and others. Until recently, only lupine was used to improve the soil, which enriched the earth with nitrogenous mineral fertilizers, but in recent times other equally useful and effective plants became known.

For example, after harvesting, you can sow a plot with rape, which, before the onset of frost, will have time to sprout and grow to a plant with 6-8 leaves in a rosette. In early spring, after the snow melts, it will begin to grow rapidly and until the beginning of May it should be plowed into the soil. After that, the earth will be enriched with mineral and organic substances and improve the structure. In addition, rapeseed contains a large number of phytoncides that destroy pathogens in the soil.

If there is a possibility of non-use land plot whole year, then you can sow it oil radish. In this case, the soil will receive the necessary norm of nutrients, and there will be much less weeds. Approximately 70 grams of radish seeds go to one hundred square meters of land. For uniform seeding it is better to mix the seeds with river sand.

And a little more about how to properly prepare and fertilize the soil with manure.

We have already discussed in detail how to properly fertilize with chicken manure, now more about manure. Good quality manure is obtained where it is stored in stalls under livestock, trampled down daily, covered with a new layer of straw. During the daily removal of manure, it is piled up in large manure storages, where it must be transferred for better preservation with peat or earth. It is also useful in cases of daily removal of manure to add to the bedding or put in the gutters of the stables for each head of livestock about 1.5 kg of peat, which, on the one hand, achieves air purification, and on the other hand, preserves slurry containing the main nutrients substances for plants. When manure is covered and layered with earth and peat, all nitrogen. Manure, when preserved in this way, usually acts strongly and quickly. Re-layering of manure with earth is done every 60-90 cm, and a layer of earth of 7-9 cm is superimposed. The richer in humus the earth, the better. A layer of manure of 60-90 cm is again superimposed on this earth, which is again covered in the same way with earth. Manure is always trampled down. The bottom of the manure storage is usually laid out with straw, a layer of 60 cm thick. The straw must be trampled down. The manure storage itself is usually chosen on high place so that by-product water does not flow into it. The slurry water flowing out of the manure storage should be collected in special tanks, and the same slurry must be watered from above with manure. Manure heaps should not be made higher than 2.5 m, because the lower layers of manure are too compacted and heated. by digging too deep into the soil. The more superficially the fertilizer is applied, the better, the faster and more accurate its action. The best thing is to fertilize with manure to the depth of one shovel. If the fertilizer is applied to the soil at a depth of 40 to 50 cm or more, as is unfortunately very often done when planting trees, then oxygen does not have sufficient access, and therefore the fertilizer cannot properly decompose and produce the proper effect on the tree. . Practice has often proved to us that a fertilizer applied too deeply, after a few years, was found in the soil in the same form as when it was applied to the soil, and, consequently, absolutely no benefit came from it.

If you fertilize with manure in the summer, then the fertilizer is always folded into small piles, broken up and plowed as soon as possible. The incorporation of manure should be the finer the heavier the soil. The decomposition of manure is accelerated if, on the fifth or sixth day after ploughing, it is again plowed to the surface and well mixed with the soil. In most cases, it is also beneficial to roll the soil with a heavy roller after fertilizing with manure, since in this case the manure is pressed down to the ground, which ensures its uniform decomposition and causes the rapid germination of weeds, which must be immediately destroyed.
When cultivating cabbage, strawberries and other plants, it is best to use humus from hotbeds or completely decomposed manure, because fresh manure contains a lot of weed seeds and insects easily start up. Under the cover of humus, moisture is stored in the ridges, in addition, rains and water during irrigation wash out all the nutritious juices from the humus into the soil, thus, in one step, both fertilizer and moistening of the ridges are achieved. Putting humus should be a layer of about 5 cm thick, and the plants themselves should not touch the manure, otherwise they may rot. Strawberries should be fertilized with manure especially carefully - so that manure does not get into the core of the bush. Instead of humus, other substances are often used, such as chopped straw, chaff, moss, sawdust, etc.

When buried in the soil, straw and the other materials listed here can also serve as fertilizer, but they rot too slowly and, compared with humus, are too poor in nutrients. On calcareous and sandy soils that differ too much light color, covering the ridges with humus is necessary to change their color so that the heating of the soil occurs more evenly. On dense clayey and light sandy soils, crushed peat can be used with complete success for surface fertilization. In autumn, peat, which has served and completely weathered, is dug into the soil when hoeing and in the first case loosens dense, heavy soil, and in the second it makes light, sandy soil more coherent.

Green manure

Natural organic matter (manure, litter) is not available to everyone, and it costs big money. In the fight against weeds, like a thousand years ago, you have to wave a hoe and crawl on your knees. If the summer is wet, potatoes prevail various diseases, and as a result, in the autumn and winter, there is a need for multiple sorting of the crop in order to remove diseased tubers.

Indeed, a lot of labor and money goes to the dacha (subsidiary) farming. Is it possible to alleviate the financial and physical burden that falls on the owner of a garden or a summer cottage?

Yes, you can. Let's start with the fact that in the old days they avoided using fresh manure for potatoes. It was believed that the tubers from it become tasteless and watery. From the diseases accumulated in the soil, they were released using the fruit change. Of course, having several acres of land (each with an area of ​​1.1 hectares), it was possible to organize a three- or seven-field crop rotation. Today, on six acres, this is a rather difficult task. But still, the people do not despair - one sows barley, the second winter rye, and the third dreams of growing peas together with potatoes.

CROSS-FLOWER CROPS
The best option is to sow cruciferous crops as a green manure, consisting of a mixture oilseed radish, white mustard, rapeseed. These plants have been known in world agricultural practice since time immemorial, being close relatives cabbage plants. They came to us from ancient farmers East Asia and the Mediterranean. Cruciferous crops are now widely cultivated in economically developed countries (France, Germany, Holland, Sweden, etc.) as phytosanitary and as crops that increase soil fertility.

Oil radish- powerful, highly branched and sprawling plant 1.5-2.0 m high; with corollas of flowers from white to purple. Not found in the wild flora, there are feral field views. Cold-resistant plant, growth does not stop until late autumn, grows back after mowing. In comparison with white mustard, it is more moisture-loving, shade-tolerant and productive. Seeds and pods taste like radishes. Blooms 35-45 days after sowing.

Mustard white- was one of the magical plants of the ancient Greeks. Even today, having unique properties, serves as a classic object of study of science. The height of her shoots is somewhat lower than that of the oilseed radish, and the flowers on the racemes are yellow. Mustard - the most precocious annual plant. It strongly reacts to the length of the day and the photo period, so the highest yields are obtained during the summer sowing dates - after June 22. Convenient for its precocity and undemanding to the type of soil.

Rape- about 1.2-1.5 m high, light yellow flowers. It is somewhat more demanding on heat than oilseed radish and white mustard. There are spring and winter forms that can turn into each other. The pods of spring rapeseed can open after seed maturation, then the sowing itself takes place, and after overwintering in the spring, part of the young plants grows in the form of a winter form. Sometimes another type is practiced - colza. This is a more "wild" form, inferior to rapeseed in terms of yield, bitter in taste and worse eaten by animals, but better adapted to different types soils. There are hybrid forms of rapeseed with fodder cabbage, turnip (for example, typhon), which are relatively more productive and stable in various climatic conditions.

USEFUL PROPERTIES OF GREEN FERTILIZER
What are the benefits of cruciferous crops?

Here are 7 of their most distinctive properties:
1. For sowing one hundred square meters of land, only 180-220 g of seeds are required. A denser sowing is used if the biomass is additionally alienated for animal feed. Crops have a very high rate of development, so you can sow in the most different dates from May to September. best timing to receive high yield are June-July. In practice, it is sown repeatedly in 2-3 terms per season. Flowering occurs 30-40 days after germination and lasts until the end of autumn. flowering plants withstand frosts up to - 6 ... 8 ° and even - 12 ° C.

2. The green mass of plants contains as many nutrients as cow dung: nitrogen - 0.5%; phosphorus - 0.25%; potassium - 0.6%. in mass plant residues grown on an area of ​​100 m2, contains the following amount of mineral fertilizers (in conventional terms for chemical composition): 3-5 kg ammonium nitrate; 2.5-3.5 kg of superphosphate; 3.5-5.0 kg of potassium salt. In addition, the green mass, when incorporated into the soil, deoxidizes it, acting like the introduction of lime, since it has an alkaline content of cell sap.

3. The underground part of plants has the ability to absorb nitrogen from the air, like clover and lupine. Root secretions dissolve mineral inclusions in the soil and convert microelements, phosphorus and potassium into a form accessible to subsequent crops.

4. Decaying cruciferous biomass releases substances into the soil that inhibit and suppress the growth and development of weeds. On a substrate rich in organic matter, saprophytic microflora rapidly develops, which displaces pathogens of agricultural crops from the soil.

5. After harvesting the green mass, along with rotten residues, plant growth and development stimulants from the class of brassinosteroids remain in the soil, increasing yield and improving quality. marketable products subsequent cultures.

6. Green mass is an excellent food for all kinds of animals and birds, contains up to 30-35% of crude protein per dry matter. This is 2 times more than in clover and 3 times more than in barley grain. It is rich in vitamins, unsaturated fatty acids and various nutrients. Regular feeding, even in the form of a small supplement, strengthens the immune system of young animals, makes it resistant to viral and bacterial aggression. Young, not hardened shoots, having a sweet-burning taste of radish, are a delicacy for children. Radish pods are canned like vegetables. Mustard powder and medicinal ointment are prepared from the ripened mustard seeds, which are used for various diseases and ailments.

7. Honey-bearing qualities of cruciferous crops are also generally recognized. Their main advantage is in the release of nectar on days even with cold nights. The nectar contains an average of 120-180 kg/ha of sugars. Cruciferous crops provide honey collection in early spring (winter species) and in the second half of summer (spring species), when other honey plants have already faded. Honey crystallizes, so it is removed from the hives for the winter.

AGRICULTURAL TECHNOLOGY

You can sow cruciferous crops for green manure at any time - from early spring and until late autumn. For sowing, a small (required) amount of seeds is mixed with sand in a ratio of 1:50, scattered over the site and harrowed. The optimal seeding depth is 2-3 cm. Cruciferous plants are not demanding on the type of soil, but are responsive to fertilizing with mineral fertilizers, especially nitrogen fertilizers (if the soil is poor).

To some extent shoots early dates crops can be damaged by pests, the probability of such a fact is small in June and July crops. With sparse seedlings, you should not particularly worry, since the yield value is capable of auto compensation, i.e. it depends little on the density (density) of plants per unit area.

When used as a green manure, plant biomass during the flowering phase is mowed, crushed and incorporated into the soil. This is the most cheap look fertilizers, with which none of the other types can be compared in terms of precocity and economic efficiency. In the northern regions, twice a season, it is possible to "fertilize" the soil in this way. AT middle lane this can be done up to three times.

If the plot is half a hectare or more, part of the area can be taken out of circulation for 3-4 years by sowing with pink clover (on waterlogged and swampy soils), pink clover and lupine (on heavy clay soils), blue alfalfa and eastern goat's rue ( on medium and light loams), horned loam and yellow alfalfa (on light and sandy loamy soils).

One of the basic rules organic farming- never leave the soil uncovered. Green manures that grow before, after, or in between major crops create dense foliar coverage. It protects the soil from weathering and mineralization of organic matter, reduces the leaching of nutrients into the deep layers and keeps them in the upper fertile horizon. Such a leaf cover acts as a living leaf mulch, which is especially important for light sandy soils, especially horizon. Therefore, it is recommended, whenever possible, to sow green manure on light soils in the fall and leave it for the winter, and in the spring to embed living or dead plants in the soil.

Green manure also plays an important health role. Firstly, it suppresses the growth of weeds, and in order for it not to become a weed itself, it is necessary to mow or close it before the formation of seeds. This applies to rapidly growing and abundantly seeded rapeseed or mustard plants. Second, some types green manure contribute to the cleansing of the soil from pests and diseases. For example, dense sowing of mustard significantly reduces the amount of wireworm.
Green manure produces a green mass that can be used as mulch or as composting material.

Take care of the land on time and correctly and you will always have a rich harvest!