How and when to prune fruit trees in spring. Best time to prune your garden in spring

Pruning and shaping trees and shrubs in spring

Early spring - best time for pruning fruit trees and shrubs, blooming in summer. Cutting is necessary for abundant fruiting and the development of healthy, beautiful, well-colored fruits and lush flowering on strong runs.

When to prune fruit trees in the spring

Trimming trees and shrubs you can start as early as the end of February, but most often it is done from the second half of March to the end of April. If the procedure is carried out too early, the cutting points will not tighten, which can lead to frostbite of the branches. Most gardeners wait with the procedure until the weather stabilizes, temperatures even out, and buds begin to swell, but before leaves appear on the branches.

Prune in spring (in this order) apple trees, and a little later plums, apricots, peaches and nectarines. cherry and only in summer - after harvesting - thanks to which dangerous tree diseases can be avoided.

Young trees during the first 3 years after planting require shaping pruning, that is, the formation of the correct crown and cutting out all dry and diseased branches. Remove all branches below 50 cm and those that grow from the central conductor (main vertical shoot) at an acute angle. Leave shoots growing at an angle close to a straight line, and then cut to about 40-50 cm.

Old (over 4 years old) already formed trees are subjected to thinning pruning, i.e., remove excessively thickened branches (even thick branches), double branches and those that grow inward to provide more light in the middle of the crown, resulting in large and well-colored fruits. A looser crown also causes shoots to dry out more quickly after rain, which reduces the risk of disease infection. It is also necessary to remove the so-called tops- growing vertically, one- or two-year, long shoots. Older trees can also be adjusted in size - height and width with renewing pruning - by removing branches that have already been fruiting. After cutting the thickest shoots, you can start removing the smaller ones (not vice versa). Weak, frozen and diseased shoots are always pruned.

Thick branches of apple, pear and plum cut into a "ring", i.e. as close to the tree trunk as possible. Thinner branches are cut in the same way or cut just above a healthy bud, so that the cutting surface is inclined to the base at an angle of 45 °.


Spring pruning of shrubs

In early spring, it is also worth trimming shrubs, but only those species that bloom in summer (from the second half of June) on the shoots of the current year - for example, buddleya, shrub bouquet (not garden!) hydrangea, rose, spirea. Plants are cut to a height of 15-30 cm to encourage the establishment a large number strong, new shoots on which flowers will appear. If not pruned, this will lead to their excessive growth, strong thickening, and each time the flowering will weaken.

Flowering bushes on two-year-old shoots (eg. lilac, weigela) do not require annual cutting, and flowering on perennial shoots (eg. barberry) are not cut so low - only old branches, diseased and frozen ones are cut. It is also possible to rejuvenate species with decorative shoots or leaves - eg. , willow and others. However, at the beginning of the season, you can not cut bushes that bloom in early spring- eg. , almond, quince and currant! They are pruned after flowering - in the summer. If you cut them before flowering, they will not bloom.

The most popular multicolor roses are cut off all the shoots above the 5-7 eye. Dead, damaged and weak shoots are also removed, as well as those that thicken the bush too much. The cutting point should be at an angle, 0.5-1 cm above the bud (eye), directed outward of the crown.

Spring pruning of trees and shrubs must be done with well-sharpened tools (pruners and saws) so that the cutting surface is smooth. After pruning, the wound should be treated with FUNABEN garden ointment or white emulsion paint with the addition of Topsin fungicide, which will protect against damage by pathogenic fungi.

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Planted a garden but don't know how to prune? Have you bought a cottage with old trees and want to rejuvenate them? Not sure which fruit tree pruning scheme to use in spring? Are you confused in terms and rules? If the answer to at least one question is yes, then you have come to the right place. Especially for you, we have collected information from books on gardening, added recommendations to it experienced gardeners, brought everything into a readable form, attached photos and video materials. Read and learn with us!

Any pruning is an injury to the tree. It depends on the type and quality of the instrument how quickly it recovers. fruit crop. The smoother the cut, the faster the plant will recover.

  • garden knife - the main tool;
  • hacksaw - for cutting thick, old branches;
  • secateurs.

Get used to working with a garden knife

The secateurs, although cutting branches with ease, compresses the wood, which increases the time for wound healing.

  • rejuvenating;
  • sanitary:
  • formative.

We will consider them in more detail in the course of the article.

Crown formation scheme

The formation of the crown of fruit trees begins from the second year of life and lasts for several years. Any pruning scheme will be difficult if the branches are placed incorrectly. In Russia, two methods are most common: sparse-tiered and untiered.

Consider the first: it is simple, accessible to novice gardeners and suitable for any type of fruit tree.

The first, lower tier is formed even in the nursery, this facilitates the work of a novice gardener. When planting a seedling, you need to cut off all the branches by 1/3. root system damaged when dug up, and such pruning contributes to the harmonious development of the plant. How soon after planting should I start forming the crown?

In the first year, a young fruit tree adapts to new conditions, roots develop, therefore the growth is small. In the second year, the growth of shoots will also be insignificant. From the third year after planting, proceed to the formation of the crown.

With a sparse-tiered system, the crown of a fruit tree consists of a central trunk and 5-6 branches located on different levels. On the right side schematic drawing the structure is visible: each branch of the next tier is in the middle of the angle formed by the lower branches. See the distance between tiers on the left side of the image.

Term What does
fruit tree stem The section of the trunk between the root collar and the first branch
Center conductor Section of the trunk from the first lower branch to the top
The escape Twig growing from last year's bud
Tops Shoots growing vertically and reaching a length of up to 2 meters
Escape Competitor A strong branch growing from a lateral bud slightly above last year's growth
tweezing Manipulation aimed at stopping the growth of the shoot. To do this, pinch the top with 2-3 leaves.
Fat shoots Strong tops on the bases of branches that appear when the tree is aging or improperly pruned.

Anti-aging pruning: how to do it right

If orchard characterized by the predominance of old trees over 30 years old - there is a decrease in yield. In this case, it is necessary, which is carried out according to the following scheme:

  1. Examine the tree, identify dying branches.
  2. At their base, select strong fat shoots.
  3. Step back 1-2 cm from the base of the fat shoot and cut (cut down) the drying branch.
  4. Cover the cut with garden pitch.

It is desirable that there be not one, but several strong shoots near the pruning site: then the wound will heal faster. So that the shoots do not grow much, you need to pinch.

that the process of rejuvenation of an old fruit tree should take place gradually.

If you remove all dying branches at once, the tree may wither. Therefore, experts recommend stretching the rejuvenation for 4 years, performing it in parts. Crown formation in the future is the same as for a young tree.

Sanitary pruning of fruit trees - what you need to know

Sanitary pruning is carried out annually in the fall. Its purpose is to remove dried or diseased branches.

Rules for this type of pruning:

  • remove shoots above the outer bud, skeletal branches - on the ring;
  • cut diseased and dry branches with a healthy part;
  • if the branch is located vertically - make an oblique cut;
  • after trimming is completed, grease all wounds with garden pitch or other putty.

In fact, sanitary pruning resembles partly rejuvenating, partly shaping. The technique and rules are the same.

When and how to prune an apple tree

The answer to the question of which month to prune an apple tree depends on its age. If the tree is young, prune in the spring before buds open. The time depends on the region - approximately the beginning-mid-March. For an adult tree, in which the movement of juice and swelling of the kidneys occur earlier, winter pruning is carried out at the end of February.

Rules to follow:

  • make sure that the thickness of the branches that extend from the conductor is not more than 1/2 of the stem diameter;
  • too thin branches are also unacceptable;
  • departure angle 40 0 ​​(it can be corrected, see the figure);
  • in the lower tier there are no more than 3-4 branches with a divergence angle of at least 90 0 .

Conclusion

The article used the following pruning literature:

  • Kolesnikov E.V. 'Advice to gardeners' - Moscow: Rosselkhozizdat, 1972 - p.152;
  • Videnov B.M., Kovachev G.T., Manov S.L. 700 tips for an amateur gardener - 1972.

" Trees

Tree pruning is the key to success and a must-have procedure that every experienced gardener knows about. Any fruit tree requires constant and careful care. Only in this case it will give a rich harvest.

Such fruit trees like apple, pear and stone fruits need pruning. They are very picky about pruning. Why prune fruit trees?

Pruning gardeners solve several problems at once:

  1. Growth and fruiting.
  2. Reducing the size of the crown.
  3. The phytosanitary task is to create conditions unfavorable for pests and diseases.

The procedure for pruning trees prolongs their life and leads to a rich harvest.

If little light enters the crown, then the branches inside the crown do not bear fruit and eventually die. Fruits are formed only on those branches of the tree where the light hits.

AND if tree pruning was done rarely or not at all, then the fruits will be on hard-to-reach branches, located, as a rule, high.

Thanks to the pruning process the crown of the tree is formed correctly. This leads to the growth of side branches and allows you to get more fruit on the available branches.


When and what kind of trees in the garden can be pruned

Pruning fruit trees in a particular season depends on the following factors:

  • what goal the gardener wants to achieve with this procedure;
  • in what climatic conditions is the garden located;
  • from the type of tree.

When is the best time to prune: spring, summer, winter or autumn?

In the central and northern regions of Russia not recommended for autumn pruning, because due to severe frosts, the wounds on the trees will not have time to heal.

This also happens because the movement of sap in the tree slows down, as it goes into a state of rest. As a result, the tree can become sick and die.

Therefore, in these regions, it is best to prune in early spring rather than autumn. It is important to bear in mind that the procedure can be carried out as soon as the air temperature has risen above 0℃.

Besides it is important to start pruning from old trees, since the buds swell faster on them than on young ones, it is recommended that pruning be done strictly before the buds swell.

Pruning fruit trees in spring:

In the southern regions of the country, pruning can be done in winter period . This is due to the fact that in the south the frosts are not as strong as in the north.

Winter pruning is primarily carried out in order to rejuvenate old trees and create the correct crown for young seedlings.

Also winter pruning is often done to reduce the fruiting of young trees. It is believed that a tree that gives rich harvests for 2-3 years in a row should be given a rest.

In addition, from high yield thin branches of a young tree can break. Therefore, it is important to cut off excess branches in winter. In winter, gardeners prune first pome rocks, and then stone fruits.

The ideal dimensions of a fruit tree are 3 m high and 3 m wide. They will collect most harvest without the help of stepladders or ladders.

Some gardeners believe that summer is the most best period for cutting. But in this case we are talking about trees from 3 years and older. They claim that pruning during the summer months results in a thriving growth of new shoots.

In addition, if pruning is done during the fruit filling, the quality of the fruit is noticeably improved.

Another advantage of summer pruning is the juice secreted by the tree. It covers the wound, which leads to rapid healing, and also acts as a protection against pests.

Most experienced gardeners find that pruning is best done when the tree is resting. Therefore, they prefer early spring.


At what age should fruit trees be pruned?

This procedure can be started annual shoots for crown formation.

If the tree has already reached 10-15 years of age, it is considered old. In such a tree, the number of growths and productivity are reduced. He needs a rejuvenating pruning.

To do this, cut branches into 3-7-year-old wood. Thus, the crown is reduced. But by next year, young shoots will thicken it. It is important to ensure that the number of cuts on one side of the branch does not exceed three.

Which plants to do and which not

The pruning procedure is required for almost all fruit trees. Since it is she who leads to an increase in yield, allows you to accelerate the growth of a tree, and also protects its many pests and diseases.

Trim, apricot, cherry plum only when leaves appear on the trees. If this is done while the tree is dormant, then pruning can lead to fungal and disease damage to the trees.

In summer, you can remove dried branches, also shorten new shoots and remove branches that interfere with the crown.

Features of the procedure

Trimming trees is important to do carefully and follow the basic rules so as not to harm.

Timing

First of all, you need to decide on the appropriate pruning season. It will depend on the type and age of fruit trees, as well as on the location of the garden and the climate.

Preparing garden tools

The presence of all the tools necessary for carrying out this procedure will play a large role as a result of pruning.

In order to avoid an increase in the diameter of the damaged area on the tree Use only sharp tools for cutting.


  • garden hacksaw;
  • secateurs;
  • air secateurs - secateurs on a long rod, for trimming branches at the top;
  • ladder;
  • glasses;
  • garden pitch or paint on drying oil - the means necessary to process the cut point.

Do not trim with a rusty tool. Otherwise, the tree may get sick and die as a result.

Scheme and technology

Before proceeding with the pruning itself, it is necessary to determine why it is necessary and draw up a plan of action.

Below are the main goals that gardeners achieve with this procedure:

  • form the correct crown of the tree;
  • strengthen thin young shoots;
  • remove crossing branches, defuse the crown to allow sunlight to penetrate it;
  • remove diseased branches, making it possible to grow healthy;
  • increase in the number of fruiting branches;
  • prepare the tree for the winter.

If you need to get the most out of the fruit tree rapid growth, during the pruning period, it is necessary to reduce the main number of fruiting buds.

Once the goal is determined, it is important to learn pruning techniques. Several techniques are known, among which the most popular are three:

  1. Cut on the kidney. This technique helps to set the correct direction of branch growth. You should find a branch with good growth. The cutting plastic of the secateurs should be turned towards the remaining part of the branch. The cut is made at a slight angle of 5 mm. in front of the kidney. The new branch will grow in the direction the bud is facing.
  2. cut on the ring. This technique is used when it is necessary to remove a full-fledged branch that grows inside the crown, interferes with other branches and creates density. The scheme is as follows: in the place where the branches are connected, it is necessary to cut exactly along the outer ring.
  3. Side branch cut. This technique allows you to change the direction of growth from one shoot to another. Incapacitated branches are cut off, and the side ones take on the function of the main branches.

Good post-care

If the cut diameter is more than 1 cm, the wound should be treated in without fail. To do this, you need to buy or cook your own garden pitch and treat the wound on the tree with it.

If for some reason garden pitch does not lie on the wound, you can use paint on drying oil.

Young fruit trees should only be pruned to form a regular crown. Otherwise, pruning can lead to a deterioration in fruiting properties.

People who take care of their trees and prune correctly and on time always receive gratitude in the form of a good harvest.

If a person first decided to do this procedure it is very important to follow the recommendations knowledgeable gardeners, because this process only at first glance it seems simple.

But in fact, carelessness and ignorance can lead to the death of the plant.

With all the love for the flora and awareness of the beauty of its natural pristine nature, shrubs and trees, especially fruit trees, require care. The main function of fruit trees, fruiting, can only be performed under the condition of professional care and timely assistance gardeners, i.e. watering, fertilizing and, of course, pruning. Spring pruning is very significant and important for fruit trees. This procedure allows you to form the correct shape of the crown. This, in turn, will provide unhindered access to each of the branches of oxygen and sunlight, thereby significantly reducing the susceptibility to diseases. different kind and significantly increase the quality of fruiting.

fruit trees in spring

In order to properly and efficiently maintain plants in order, you will need the following tools for pruning trees:

  • secateurs - should be with such a mechanism that will allow the elimination of the branch at a time, should fit comfortably in the hand and be practical to use;
  • garden saw - it must be with a narrowed end of the blade, the teeth must be equipped with so-called gaps that prevent the accumulation of sawdust, in no case should you replace a garden saw with a construction one; all pruning tool fruit- berry bushes and trees must be specially profiled and intended for these works;
  • air pruner - has the form of an elongated telescopic rod, to one end of which a pruner is attached, its work is carried out with the help of levers and a rope, the realization of the importance of such a tool comes when it comes to trimming branches that are impossible or difficult to access.

It is very important to monitor the sharpness of the tools used when cutting trees. In a torn incision obtained from a blunt or not sharp enough tool, with a high probability one should expect the development of a colony of microorganisms that seriously harm both a single branch and the entire tree or shrub as a whole. After finishing work with garden tools for trimming, they should be cleaned and thoroughly wiped with a cloth soaked in oil.

In addition to tools, you will need a garden pitch. Var in consistency resembles an ointment. Prepared from refined petroleum products. Varom treats wounds on the surface of shrubs and trees. But you need to remember that pitch can be used for putty only at positive outdoor temperatures. To replace it, you can use oil paint, because its basis is drying oil.

garden tools High Quality and maximum sharpness will provide a virtually painless circumcision procedure.

pruning fruit trees

pruning can be produced different ways. Which one to use depends on what kind of result you want to achieve.

The first way is a cut on the kidney. This method is mainly used to give a growth branch in a certain direction. Apply this method on branches that have reached the age of one year. Choose a kidney, the growth of which is directed in the right direction. In order to correctly perform the cut, you need to determine the angle of 45 degrees towards the branch.

Circumcision should be carried out as carefully as possible and avoid errors in the form of: a large left stump, injury to the kidney, and incorrect determination of the angle of the incision. The secateurs must be held in such a way that the plate that makes the cut is turned towards the part that remains on the tree.

At the time of cutting, you should be as focused as possible and not allow too sharp a cut. In cases of doing work in this form, the kidney is likely to die, because it will not be able to receive enough nutrition to wake up.

The second way is a cut into a ring. This type of pruning involves deleting an entire branch. The branch that has the wrong direction of growth (for example, deep into the crown) should be removed. if such a branch is left unattended, then it will receive sufficient nutrition for active growth, but will not bear fruit at all. A cut of this kind is made with a pruner only in cases where the thickness of the branch allows it.

The third way is a cut to the side branch. This type used in cases where there is a need to transfer the course of active growth from one branch to another. Unnecessary, in such cases, removed. The cut must be done in such a way that it creates a kind of continuation with respect to the branch that remains. Thus, the side branch becomes the main branch.

How to trim fruit trees in the spring we look at the video:

Formation of fruit trees

Since every gardener producing cutting trees pursues different end goals, there are different types pruning.

Formative. It makes it possible to make a crown of the desired density and achieve the desired tree silhouette. Only a properly formed tree skeleton receives stability under certain loads.

Formative pruning carried out in February promotes more intensive growth of branches, and pruning made in mid-March-early April, on the contrary, inhibits active growth.

Regulatory. Performs the function of control over the already formed crown. In addition, it makes it possible for sunlight to freely penetrate to the branches, and also not to overload the tree skeleton with newly formed shoots. The timing of the regulatory pruning is appropriate from February to April and from August to September.

Anti-aging. Gives old plants the opportunity to get a charge to the beginning of the renewal process and thus stimulates the growth of young branches.


In cases where the plant gives each year an increase in branches from 10 to 15 cm, there is a need to shorten them. Such actions will serve as a stimulation for the active awakening of sleeping and adnexal kidneys. Experts advise such rejuvenation at the end of winter, beginning of autumn and spring.

Recovery. This type of pruning makes it possible for trees that have received any damage to return to normal and active growth, flowering and fruiting.

Sanitary. Such pruning is reduced to the removal of dried, affected, broken or diseased branches from plants. Sanitary pruning can be done all year round, but not on days when the outside temperature is below freezing. After cutting diseased or affected shoots, it is recommended to disinfect the tools with technical alcohol. Performing such pruning, you need to take into account the age and dimensions of the tree. Too intense actions can lead to thickening of the crown.

Features of winter pruning

There is one here important rule- do not cut trees and shrubs at outdoor temperatures below zero. It is on such days that the tree becomes especially fragile. Branches in this state are easily deformed and damaged, and the healing process is slow and poor. On days when the air temperature drops below 6-7 degrees, pruning should be postponed.

There are in the winter pruning and positive points- since there is no leaf cover, the crown becomes clearly visible from all sides, and therefore all defects are also clearly visible. Also, the advantages of winter pruning include: the trees feel the pruning to a minimum, it is possible to perform more accurate and high-quality cuts.

When cutting thick branches, only a saw should be used. To avoid injury to the branches, it is necessary to file both on one side and on the opposite side.

Features of spring pruning


According to many amateur gardeners, spring pruning must be done before the plants begin the period of sap flow. but experienced professionals it is strongly advised to perform such circumcision at a time when the process of sap flow has not yet begun, but should soon begin. It is worth listening to their opinion and clearly defining the agreed time. It is during this period that the plant should be in a state of awakening. A plant that has undergone pruning, having finally woken up, will be able to contribute to the active healing of the resulting wounds with minimal losses of useful trace elements.

Time period for pruning trees different varieties different from each other. This feature makes it possible to plan the procedure and have time to do everything before the start of the sap flow process.

After pruning, the wound on the tree should be treated with garden pitch, oil-based paint or cow dung mixed with yellow clay. For spring pruning, it is worth choosing a warm day, a day when the air temperature is not lower than -3 -4 C degrees.

Spring pruning of shrubs that have to survive flowering is strongly discouraged. This feature applies to plants whose flower budding occurs only on one-year-old branches. Otherwise, the owner will deprive himself of tenderness from watching the delicious flowering.

How to prune apple and pear trees in spring

Pruning apple trees in the spring has some features that should be taken into account when working in the garden, first of all, active sap flow should be taken into account, which begins with the onset of spring, so pruning should be done with the utmost care. Careless attitude to the procedure performed can cause serious damage to the tree. The main purpose of spring pruning can be considered the removal of excess branches and processes in order to correct formation crowns.

First of all, on apple trees, damaged branches are removed and those on which the buds are not swollen sufficiently, i.e. For some reason they don't develop.

The earlier spring pruning is done, the more time the tree has to prepare for flowering and fruiting.

You can see more about how apple trees are pruned in spring in the video:

Experienced gardeners believe that pear pruning in the spring - perfect option formation of the correct crown of the tree. Spring pruning is done before the sap flow begins and the leaves bloom.

Depending on the age of the tree, apply different variants pruning. For example, two-year-old pear seedlings are cut to a height of 0.5 m, this will contribute to the active formation of shoots from the lower buds.

In subsequent years, the central trunk is shortened by a quarter, I leave only 4 of the side branches, the rest must be removed.

In the same way, they continue to form a tree over the following years, while not allowing the branches of the second order to exceed the growth of the main ones. Branches that thicken the crown are subject to removal, i.e. growing inside her.

To increase the activity of shoot growth, the branches inside the tree crown and along its periphery are shortened. Naturally, weaker and damaged branches are removed.

Pear pruning in the spring is performed after a positive temperature is established - in severe frosts, the tree after pruning can be seriously damaged.

We look at the video on how to properly trim a pear in the spring:

Tree pruning in autumn

The bulk of fruit-bearing trees do not survive autumn pruning well. For example, plums, cherries or pears can not only become seriously ill after such pruning, but even die. If there is no special need for this procedure, it makes sense to postpone it to the spring. Also, do not subject plants that have not yet fully taken root to such a procedure, that is, young and not strong. This will almost certainly lead to their death.

Mostly, autumn pruning comes down to sanitation. It should be understood that ahead of the plant is waiting for a long and Cold winter, which it will be much easier for him to survive without unnecessary wounds. A tree covered with wounds has little chance of surviving the winter well.

Autumn pruning should be carried out at a temperature not lower than -4 -5 C degrees. Although, if the pruning is sanitary, then the affected or diseased branches should be cut off without delay and thereby preventing spread to healthy areas. Removed affected branches or parts of the tree should be burned immediately.

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