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What frosts can withstand crops in the garden. Acceleration of potato ripening

Which by that time will already be tired of languishing on the windowsill. This happens every year, and nothing can make adjustments to this beautiful picture ... The only exception is return frosts.

Epin-extra is able to mobilize all internal resources and stimulate the natural physiological processes of plants. Moreover, spraying with the drug helps to develop in them immunity to aggressive environment frost and temperature fluctuations. And this means that if a similar situation repeats, the plants will suffer much less.

It is necessary to spray the leaves and branches of plants damaged by frost, trying (if possible) to process and lower part sheet. Every 7-10 days the procedure is repeated - and so on until complete recovery.

To prepare the solution, you need to thoroughly stir 1 ampoule Epin-extra in 5 liters of water. Important: the drug is destroyed in an alkaline environment, so it is advisable to use pre-boiled or acidified water to prepare the solution.

To acidify water, you can add a teaspoon of vinegar (boric acid) to 5 liters of water or a few crystals. citric acid. After preparing the solution retains its qualities no longer than 2 days, so it is not advisable to cook it for the future - it is better to use it on the day of preparation. If you still need to save leftovers, keep them in a dark, cool room.

Under the action of sunlight, epin (or rather, its active substance - epibrassinolide) quickly disappears, so it is necessary to spray frost-damaged plants early in the morning or late in the evening.

An alternative to this remedy can be a solution of the drug Zircon. To prepare a solution, 1 ml of the drug is dissolved in 10 liters of water. Spraying, as in the case of epin solution, is carried out early in the morning or in the evening, repeating the procedure 4 times - every 7-10 days.

Frost-damaged plants should be sprayed early in the morning or late in the evening.

Zircon save tomatoes affected by recurrent frosts, even after frost down to -7 ... -8 ° С. To do this, the entire vegetative part of the plants must be cut to living tissues, leaving stumps about 3 cm, and poured under the root with a solution of the drug (1 ml per 8 liters of water). After some time, new healthy shoots should appear on the plants.

Application of fertilizers

Fertilizers will help reanimate frozen plants! It is no secret that frost-damaged crops need careful care. It should consist not only in regular watering, but also frequent fertilizing with fertilizers. The only condition: the doses of fertilizers must be made weak, otherwise, instead of benefiting, you will only bring harm to the plants.

So, if you suffered from frost potato seedlings, you can bring them back to life by immediately feeding the plantings. Any easily soluble nitrogen containing mineral fertilizers, for example: nitrophoska, slurry, ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate, urea and so on ... Fertilizer is simply embedded in the aisle during hilling. 1.5 kg ammonium nitrate enough to feed potato plantings on an area of 1 weave.

Fertilizers help revive frozen plants

With the help of fertilizing with nitroammophos containing nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus (16% each) and sulfur (2%), you can help those affected by frost berry bushes and fruit trees : , cherry, apple tree, . To do this, prepare a solution of 50 g of nitroammophoska, diluted in 10 liters of water.

Paying attention to the roots of plants affected by frost, one should not forget about their leaf mass. Plant leaves must be treated with a solution prepared from 8 liters of water, to which 2 g of manganese, copper and boron are added. It will take no more than 2 weeks, and the plants will recover. True, strongly frozen shoots will need to be cut out.

Smooth as much as possible Negative influence return frosts on strawberry (strawberry) garden bed is also real. To do this, add under each plant mineral supplement: Dissolve a spoonful of nitroammophoska in 10 liters of water. Instead of nitroammophoska, you can use a solution chicken manure: 1 part manure to 20 parts water. Strawberries should be fed early in the morning or in the evening, directly under the root, spending about 0.5 liters of fertilizer per 1 bush.

It is also real to smooth out the effect of return frosts on a strawberry garden.

Under vegetable plants that have suffered from freezing, you can make complex fertilizers(10 g per 1 sq.m) or 5 g of phosphorus and 4 g nitrogen fertilizers per 1 sq.m. Such top dressing additionally stimulates plant growth.

Despite the fact that return frosts cause a lot of harm to plants on the site, you should not despair. Put a little effort, and most of the landings will certainly be saved. I hope the suggested tips will help you in this difficult task, and I will be very grateful if you share your secrets of saving plants affected by return frosts in the comments.

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Potato is the most popular crop in Russia. It grows in every garden, and with the advent of autumn it is removed to the cellars for long-term storage. But, unfortunately, it happens that potato tubers begin to turn black. The most common cause such a process improper storage. Let's see why this happens and what to do if the seedlings have time to freeze.

Even seemingly healthy vegetables can have black spots. Why this happens is often a mystery. If this problem has spread to a large part of the crop, urgent action must be taken.

What varieties can be stored in winter

There are about 380 varieties of potatoes. All differ in skin color, pulp, taste, root size, ripening time. When choosing potatoes for long-term storage, you need to be guided by another indicator - its keeping quality.

Potato storage is directly affected by the selected variety based on the ripening time. The most unsuitable variety is early ripe, such a vegetable is intended for consumption in summer and at the beginning of autumn maximum. Varieties with medium and late deadline maturity are suitable for long-term storage.

When choosing a term, you need to look so that the technical maturity of the root crop reaches 100-130 days. Such potatoes form a thick skin, cope well with diseases, contain a large number of tannins.

It is better to purchase several varieties of potatoes if there is no experience in planting and storing a certain type of root crop.

Late varieties for long storage most suitable. They contain a large number of microelements and will last until spring without problems. Popular late varieties: "Picasso", "", "Lorch", "Atlant", "Vesnyanka".

Desired temperature and humidity for potatoes

The vegetable should be stored at a temperature +2 +6 degrees and the air humidity should be 80-90% . Most suitable premises for storage - cellar or basement.

Room ventilation required. At a temperature of 0-1 degrees, the potato does not rot, but becomes sweetish, and the flesh darkens. At a temperature of 7-12 degrees, the tubers begin to germinate, become soft, spots appear on the pulp.

Why do potatoes turn black inside during storage

Darkening can occur due to disease - gray spot.

The main causes of darkening:

culture dislikes fresh organics, as excess nitrogen is released, which contributes to the reproduction of fungi. This contributes to the browning of the potatoes;
at the origin of the root crop, there is a lack or excess of moisture;
the crop is harvested ahead of time, the flesh darkens in the unripe potatoes. Overripe potatoes, during the heat period, may deteriorate when stored in an overheated room;
if harvesting is done late in the frost period, the tubers may overheat, the flesh may darken. At a soil temperature of -2 degrees and frost, the tubers begin to rot;
poor-quality transportation: shocks, pressure;
improper storage conditions over a long period. The temperature is above or below 2-6 degrees;
tubers contain a high percentage of starch;
disease damage - blackleg. It is transmitted through planting material, continues to be affected by the disease and blackness during storage.

Why does it turn black in spring

It happens that the vegetable survived the winter well, and with the advent of spring it begins to turn black. The reason may be in poor ventilation.

Potatoes begin to rot with the advent of warming and in spring period sprouts, the pulp darkens, it becomes lethargic and soft. There is a sharp temperature drop in the storage. Moisture is released and this again contributes to the debate.

What can and should be done so that the vegetable does not darken

So that the potatoes do not darken, you need to observe temperature regime and store it in wooden boxes with ventilation holes.

Install pallets and move away from the walls by 20 cm. Thanks to this, you can avoid: getting wet and freezing.

After harvesting you need within 20 days leave potatoes to ventilate fresh air. It is forbidden to store the root crop with other vegetables, except for beets.

During the frost

Sometimes it happens that a vegetable falls under frost. It's not entirely dangerous if the potatoes haven't risen. But if sprouts have appeared, then the arrival of frosts can affect the quality of the future crop and beat it.

Are colds terrible for culture?

spring frosts terrible for the harvest potatoes. This is especially true for the regions of Siberia. Young potato sprouts are afraid of frost and are especially sensitive to spring frosts and any temperature from 0 and below can kill the crop.

Will potatoes go away on their own after freezing

Some gardeners plant potatoes as early as early March, and there is a risk that the crop will fall under frost.

If the young sprouts are frozen, then this may affect the future of the crop, although the potatoes will continue to grow with warming. Older plants are not affected much by the cold.

How to save after frost

If they promise frosts, you need to urgently spud seedlings crops, and after frosts release the bushes then the ridges.

To avoid freezing and give the potato a chance to survive if it has been frozen, you can warm the vegetable by covering the plantings with grass. Some gardeners make fires from straw, shavings along the edges of arable land and thereby insulate the soil. To increase the smoke mass, it is recommended to drop mineral oils or coal tar inside the fire. It is also possible cover beds with foil.

If the frosts have passed, and the vegetable has already managed to freeze, you need to allow the bushes to restore themselves on their own. Damaged bushes are able to recover, albeit with great effort. To help the crop, you need to feed it with nitrogen fertilizers.

The reasons that the potatoes in the garden are frozen

If the air temperature drops below zero degrees, or night frosts begin in the spring, the potatoes begin to freeze and may freeze. This affects the sprouts, they blacken and wither. In the future, even if the plants continue to grow and "move away", the flesh of the fruit may begin to turn black.

What to do if the shoots and tops had time to freeze

If the frosts began unexpectedly and the seedlings froze, then you need darken them before dawn with the help of: newspapers, dark film, rags.

The main thing is that thawing occurs gradually, then the tops will not wither and frostbite will be insignificant.

What to feed

Affected crop needs treatment nitrogen, and it is also necessary to make top dressing: nitrophoska 5 gr. per 1 sq.m.

Also useful foliar top dressing urea 20g per 10 liters of water. In order for the frozen tops to come to life, you need to spray it " Epinom Extra».

If the frosts began when the crop has faded, but it has not yet been harvested, then you can feed it with ash or potash preparations. After the cold weather, it is forbidden to dig potatoes, you need to wait for warming.

The first actions if frost hit after planting

If, after planting, they grabbed and hit frosts, the vegetable managed to freeze, then in order to save it, it is urgently necessary to reanimate and process it with special means.

Ways to save the crop if frost portends:

hilling. After frost, sprouts suffer, so the crop should be piled up so that the tops are completely under the crest;
mulching. Warm the crop with a thick layer of straw, hay or sawdust;
covering the crop with foil. Only the film should not put pressure on young shoots. Pegs should be installed around the perimeter and the film should be stretched;
sprinkling. The crop should be watered abundantly when t is 0. The water will begin to evaporate and protect the plant;
smoke warming. This method of frost protection was mentioned above. It is necessary to kindle a fire on both sides of the crop so that the smoke covers the entire area. To create a smoke screen, you need to kindle a fire so that the fire burns 50-70 cm in height. To do this, you can burn straw, firewood, manure. The fire should burn for 3-4 hours in the morning. The method is effective only in windy weather;
strengthening the immunity of culture. Even before planting the crop, planting material should be strengthened with growth regulator preparations. They help young sprouts to endure any weather. The most popular: Silk, Biostim, Epin Extra.

To provide yourself and your family with potatoes for the whole winter, you need to choose the most "tenacious" potato variety, as well as follow the rules for storing root crops. Have a rich harvest!

Spring weather is capricious, neither weather forecasters nor the most experienced agronomists can guarantee that in May, after almost summer heat, return frosts will not occur. If by this time the potatoes rise, the tops will inevitably freeze.

Down to -2 °C most of bushes will get sick, young leaves will turn yellow and die off, but soon the plants will recover. If the temperature drops below -3 ° C, the probability of death of seedlings is high. But even in this case, the uterine tubers in the ground are able to form new shoots. In unfavorable years, crop losses from frosts exceed 30%.

Frost protection for potatoes

One of better ways to avoid that the potatoes fall under frost - choose the right planting time. Usually spring cooling coincides with the flowering time of bird cherry. It is customary to plant potatoes when the bird cherry begins to fade, birch leaves reach the size of a small coin, and the soil at a depth of 8 cm warms up to at least +6 ° C. In colder soil, the germination of tubers will still stop.

But frosts sometimes occur in June, and landing work must be carried out while the earth in the beds is wet. There are other methods to protect potatoes from a sudden cold snap.

Hilling

Spring frosts are short-term, therefore, because of them, it suffers mainly above-ground part tops. If weather forecasters predict frosts, sprouted potatoes must be piled up so that only the tips of the leaves remain above the surface of the ridge. On large plantations, hilling is conveniently carried out with the help of hedgehog cultivators, at the same time destroying weeds.

Under the earthen ridge, the potato bush will not only warm up, but also create a more powerful root system. True, the shoots grow too quickly, and in the event of prolonged frosts, the bushes will have to be spudded 2–3 times with an interval of 7–10 days.

The method is not suitable for potatoes grown from botanical seeds, sprouts or eyes: such plants do not have the ability to scoop useful material from the mother tuber and are too weak to break through the thickness of the earth.

Mulching

With the threat of frost, hilling can be replaced by mulching. A thick layer of straw, hay or sawdust warms young shoots no worse than an earthen ridge. Subsequently, the mulch decomposes, improving soil structure. In this way, potato shoots from sprouts, eyes or botanical seeds are also protected.

Straw mulch perfectly protects bushes from frost

For very early potatoes, the method is not suitable, as it slightly slows down the development of plants.

Covering seedlings with foil or spunbond

In order not to freeze the tops of potatoes, especially early ones, seedlings cover polyethylene film or white spunbond. Above the beds, arcs made of metal or flexible PVC pipes are installed, on which the covering material is pulled. During the day, the sun warms the air inside the greenhouses so much that potato tops can wither due to the heat. Therefore, in the daytime, greenhouses are slightly opened for ventilation.

Many gardeners, when there is a threat of frost, simply throw a film or spunbond on pegs driven in along the edges of the beds, pressing the material to the ground with stones. Under such a shelter, the seedlings are warm, but if the leaf touches the film, it will freeze. Therefore, there must be a gap between the tops of the shoots and the surface of the covering material.

An original way to do without arcs and pegs is to sow barley sparsely on the beds at the same time as planting potatoes (other cereals will not work). barley grows faster than potatoes, and its strong stems are able to hold the weight of the covering material no worse than wooden stakes. When the threat of frost has passed, the barley is mowed along with the weeds and left in the beds: it serves as a natural fertilizer.

Sprinkling

If frosts are predicted by morning, potato seedlings are abundantly sprayed with water in the evening. When the temperature drops to 0 ° C, moisture from the surface of the leaves begins to evaporate intensively. Formed above plants thinnest layer steam (analogous to fog), which protects the tops from frost.

smoke screen

The smoke screen is a classic that everyone knows about, but few have put into practice. Smoke is really able to protect the tops from frost, but for this it is necessary that it spread over the site.

To create a smoke screen over one hundred square meters of a potato plantation, a fire with an area of at least 1.5 m² (flame height - 50 cm) is needed. Dry firewood, straw, or even dried manure is mixed with damp materials, which smolder, releasing copious smoke. Bonfires are located on the windward side. They should burn all night and 2-3 hours after dawn.

The problem is that frosts often occur in calm weather, because of which the smoke does not spread over the site, but rises up, that is, all efforts are in vain. This method of protecting potatoes from frost is ineffective.

Improving Potato Immunity

Before planting, care must be taken to ensure that the plants survive the frost safely. Treatment planting material preparations-growth regulators significantly strengthens the immune system of potatoes and enhances its frost resistance. The advantage of such means is that they do not cause damage environment and their application does not contradict the principles of organic farming.

The most popular and effective:

"Epin-Extra";
"SILC";
Biostim.

Treatment of frozen seedlings and tops of potatoes

At negative air temperatures, stomata paralysis occurs on potato leaves - microscopic channels through which moisture evaporates. When a frosty morning gives way to a warm sunny day, moisture begins to evaporate from the entire surface of the leaves. As a result, plants die from dehydration. This can be prevented.

If the frost hit unexpectedly and the potato seedlings froze, it is necessary to shade them before dawn: cover them with dark spunbond, newspapers, and rags. In order for the normal functioning of the stomata to begin, the leaves must thaw very slowly. Then the tops will not wither and the damage from frostbite will be minimal.

Therapeutic top dressing

Frost-affected potatoes need higher doses nutrients, first of all - nitrogen: plants need to restore the volume of green mass at an accelerated pace. In addition, diseased bushes are at an increased risk of fungal infections. In order for the plants to recover, it is necessary to carry out one or two top dressings, even if they violate the schedule.

For root dressings, nitrophoska is applied to the soil at the rate of 5–7 grams per running meter beds. Nitroammofoska is suitable only for foliar top dressing, as it dissolves too slowly in the ground. From organic fertilizers for root dressing it is best to use a weak solution bird droppings(chicken or pigeon, for 1 part of dry manure - 20 parts of water or nettle infusion). If there is no litter, a weak solution of manure (but not fresh) will do.

For potatoes after frost, foliar top dressing with urea (20–25 g per 10 l of water) is most useful. Agronomists recommend adding complex fertilizers "Nutrivant Plus™ Potato" or "Rost-Concentrate Potassium" to the urea solution. In order for the frozen tops to come to life, they are sprayed with Epin-Extra 2–3 times with an interval of 5–7 days.

Potato bushes react most painfully to frosts in the budding and flowering phase. To feed flowering potatoes, fertilizers are needed that contain less nitrogen, but more potassium, for example, Rost-Potassium Concentrate.

If the early autumn frosts hit when the potatoes have faded, but the harvest is still far away, they are fed potash fertilizers or ash. It is impossible to dig potatoes immediately after freezing, otherwise the tubers will not be stored well. You have to wait at least 2-3 days.

Many gardeners have already taken advantage of the unusually warm February and March and planted potatoes. Such early landings have every chance of getting frostbite. This already happened once a couple of years ago, when it turned out to be a very warm February and all the potatoes had already been planted. Including me. And then the snow fell. As it turned out, under the snow, the potatoes survived the frost perfectly, and as soon as the snow melted, shoots immediately appeared.

There is nothing surprising in the fact that many people plant potatoes in February, since some enthusiasts plant potatoes in the fall, covering the plantings with reed mats. Oddly enough, in some years such plantings work out well. But it happens that the tubers freeze slightly and some of them do not sprout.
This year I planted potatoes in the February thaw. But I think that potatoes planted earlier than usual have every chance of surviving.
It will be worse if the frosts come out when the potatoes have already risen. In this case, when frost sets in, it must be insulated - by spudding it with earth up to the "very ears", and watering the aisles, if possible. If frost sweeps through the plantings, then the potatoes will begin to grow from points that are underground. This will slightly reduce the yield, but not critical.
If the plantings are already decent and it is not possible to hide them by hilling, it is necessary to increase their stability - water and spray with Immunocytophyte (according to the instructions).
But it is best to bypass frosts. That is, plant potatoes when there will be no more frosts when shoots appear. Usually this is the time when birch leaves reach the size of a ten-kopeck coin.
Why do gardeners take risks by planting potatoes so early? Because the earlier you plant, the higher the yield. As they say, it's all about greed. If so, it is best to stock up on straw and cover plantings at risk of frost.
Damaged potatoes need to be restored as soon as possible. For this, plantings are fed with urea: 30-40 g per 10 liters of water. And also you need to spray the bushes boric acid and Epin.

Andrey LOZOVOY took risks and planted potatoes in February