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Site drainage is the easiest way. How to make drainage in the country: simple ways to avoid swamping the summer cottage

Drainage (from the French drainage) is a process represented by the natural or artificial removal of water. It is quite easy to install a drainage system for a site with your own hands, but such a fairly simple event will allow you to get rid of oversaturation of the soil with moisture, as well as excessive stagnation of water in the local area.

What is drainage

The drainage system is an engineering structure that collects and removes ground or infiltrated water. Thanks to a well-branched structure and special drainage elements located around the perimeter of the entire site, the territory receives effective protection from excessive moisture.

As a result, a qualitative regulation of the amount of moisture and a balance of water in the soil are ensured, which allows creating the most favorable conditions for vegetation and the microclimate on the site, and also ensures the safety of the foundation of all buildings.

How to determine the level of groundwater

Many companies are engaged in determining the level of GW at a professional level, but the cost of such a service is high, so site owners prefer to carry out such an event on their own.

Knowing a few rules, you can independently determine the level of groundwater

Ways to independently determine the level of groundwater:

with a high occurrence of water, vegetation appears on the site, represented by cattail and reeds, horsetail, willow and alder, meadowsweet and wormwood, as well as licorice;
the presence of a "technical well" for construction needs indicates the presence of water in fairly high soil layers;
a clear sign of excessive moisture in the area is too much slugs and snails, frogs and mosquitoes, as well as midges.

The simplest and most informative is to drill a test well with a conventional garden drill to a depth of two or three meters. The check is carried out in the spring, after the snow has melted, or in late autumn, after the long rains have passed. During extremely hot summer months or very cold winter days, groundwater levels are at their lowest, so any measurements taken are inaccurate and give an approximate picture of their depth.

Is it necessary to make a drainage system

The need to equip a drainage system at the site is due to the too high occurrence of water and frequent moisture stagnation. High-quality drainage is necessarily used if there is a seasonal rise in groundwater in the territory, there is perched water in the spring, or the building is located on a slope with the movement of melt water.

The diagram shows that the drainage system prevents the penetration of groundwater into the basement

An integrated drainage structure is always equipped with the use of underground and surface drainage systems, but this option is necessary in swampy areas with high-lying waters lying at the very surface. The surface-type structure is laid on clay and poorly absorbing rain or melt water soils. The lack of an effective drainage system often causes the death of vegetation, the destruction of the foundation, or the rapid decay of wooden buildings.

To draw up a drainage scheme, it is necessary to collect the information provided:

the most detailed plan of the site indicating the location of buildings, plantings and boundaries of the territory;
topographic data showing all the relief characteristics of the area to be drained;
dendroplan in the form of a schematic display of all garden and ornamental crops already growing or intended for planting;
a road and path grid in the form of a layout of all paths and paved playgrounds and recreation areas that need drainage;
a diagram of communication and engineering systems located on the territory;
hydrological data on the level of water balance in the drained area.

Of course, for self-arrangement of deep drainage, the help or advice of qualified specialists may be required, but it is quite possible to install a simple surface drainage with your own hands, without the involvement of craftsmen.

Types of drainage systems

Drainage systems are classified according to such a parameter as the depth of the drainage devices. The drainage structure can be located on the surface, with sufficient depth or in a vertical position.

Surface drainage

The category of the most simple and commonly available dehumidification systems that accumulate moisture and lower the level of humidity. Independent implementation of activities for the arrangement of the surface structure is quite affordable, due to the lack of planning for extensive ground work.

The surface drainage system of the site is one of the simplest and most affordable

Linear

The linear version is represented by recessed gutters, through which water is discharged through special sand traps.

In a linear drainage system, water is discharged through special sand traps.

When arranging a linear structure, it must be remembered that the slope of the relief must exceed three degrees, and the system itself allows you to drain water from the foundation and from the slopes, and also protects the garden droshky and the site from waterlogging.

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The point option is optimal, if necessary, to protect local places from waterlogging. Arrangement is carried out in the areas of drains, in the territories of entry and in doorways, near terraces and water intake points for irrigation activities.

The drainage system must necessarily be sloped to ensure good water drainage.

Depth view of drainage

Internal or buried drainage is a method of lowering the groundwater level and draining it beyond the boundaries of the site by means of a pipe structure in the form of special drains, which are located along the perimeter of the entire drained area.

Deep drainage contributes to the lowering of the groundwater level

Schema Type Differences

In accordance with the typical features of the scheme, an internal or deep drainage system can be represented by very efficient wall and ring structures.

wall

The wall option is a worthy alternative to a not too decorative surface drainage system, it saves space on the site, but is used in more difficult hydrological conditions and is laid at the foundation stage. Drainage of this type shows high efficiency on clay soils and loamy soils, and drainage pipes along the perimeter of the building, gravel and crushed stone backfill are used for the arrangement.

The wall drainage system is laid at the stage of building a house

Annular

The ring deep version provides protection for the foundation and basements, therefore it is located around the entire perimeter and necessarily below the floor level in the protected structure. A properly equipped ring system prevents any flooding, but its effectiveness directly depends on factors such as the area of \u200b\u200bthe site and the level of the groundwater table relative to the installation depth of drainage equipment.

Ring drainage system is mounted around the entire perimeter of the house

How to make drainage of the site with your own hands

Drainage in most cases is the only solution to the problem of flooding of the local area. The drainage system belongs to the category of rather complex engineering objects, therefore, in the design process, the factors represented by the relief of the site, existing or planned buildings, soil composition, and the depth of groundwater must be taken into account.

Surface

Self-arrangement of the surface system is the most important condition for ensuring high-quality protection of the foundation of buildings, basements and basements, as well as the site from excess moisture.

A project is preliminarily created with the choice of a place for drains, slopes and channel slopes, after which all components are selected.

Linear

For the arrangement of linear drainage, it is necessary to purchase polymer concrete, concrete or plastic gutters.

For the installation of a linear drainage system, special gutters will be required

The gutters are laid in special grooves and are closed from above with gratings.

With a distance of 50 cm from the building, grooves are pulled out along the entire perimeter of the foundation base for laying gutters. The inner part of the grooves is leveled, after which the sand and gravel cushion is filled up. The gutters are laid with an inclination, after which they are taken out of the boundaries of the territory. The upper part of the system is covered with special protective and decorative removable gratings that prevent the ingress of autumn leaves and any debris, as well as ensure the safety of the movement of vehicles and people.

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The point option allows for local collection of rain and melt water. This lightweight drainage design is an excellent addition to a linear system and is installed in areas that require rapid and efficient drainage from surfaces such as driveways, playgrounds, recreation areas, paths and paved paths. For self-arrangement of a point drainage system, you will need to purchase structural elements, represented by storm dampers and drains, traditional storm water inlets and drains.

Rain gutter must be installed with water outlets

With independent point drainage, it must be remembered that a rectangular storm water inlet made of polymer concrete or durable plastic must be equipped with outlets with access to the drainage system. For ease of operation and maintenance, rain collectors are equipped with special waste collection baskets and water seals to prevent the spread of unpleasant odors. To build the storm water inlet, several elements are installed on top of each other.

Deep

Drainage with deepening is a more complex option for arranging a drainage system from a site, therefore, its implementation is carried out in accordance with the basic recommendations below and with strict adherence to technology.

Deep drainage system is more complex and thorough

Deep drainage system consists of several elements

It is necessary to purchase pipes that are laid in trenches, dug around the perimeter of the entire territory and ensure the removal of wastewater, as well as manholes, through which water is pumped out and the system is cleaned.
Drainage pipes must be laid in prepared trenches.

In accordance with the markings according to the scheme, a drainage trench is dug, having a slope in the direction of the drain. The angle of the pipe slope is, as a rule, half a centimeter for each meter of pipe, and when choosing a depth, the depth of soil freezing must be taken into account. Most often, the pipe system is buried by a meter.

At the bottom of the excavated trench, a ten-centimeter layer of sand is poured, which must be leveled and carefully compacted. Then a layer of geotextile fabric is laid, on which a twenty-centimeter layer of gravel is poured.

Pour sand into the trench, then lay the geotextile and pipe

The laid pipe system is covered from above with a crushed stone layer, the field of which is wrapped around by the free edges of the geotextile fabric. It is advisable to bury the trench after checking the performance of the drainage structure during heavy rain.

Installation option for a deep drainage system

All pipe connections must be made of the highest quality, and all turns of the drainage structure should be provided with angled inspection wells, which will allow for systematic cleaning and pumping out water in emergency mode. At the end of the installed system, a well is also installed to collect wastewater. Most often, on average, competent and high-quality arrangement of a standard-sized drainage system takes about three to four weeks.

Any communication structures, including drainage systems, need periodic maintenance. During operation, the amount of sediment increases rapidly and often rises to the drainage pipes. Regular inspection involves inspection of the condition of the drainage, cleaning of drainage wells and collector space.

Drainage system of any type requires maintenance

To clean the wells, you can use drainage or drainage-fecal pumping equipment, which easily pumps liquids with large solid particles:

Immerse the pumping equipment in the well and fix it at a height of half a meter from the bottom level.
Turn on the device for pumping liquid and cleaning from sewage.
The supply of clean water under pressure, which will destroy the silt deposits at the bottom.
Raise and clean the filter.
Remove pumping equipment, securely close the well and pipe outlets.

Complete cleaning of the drainage system allows you to remove deposits that form on the walls of the pipeline, and if necessary, additional repairs are carried out. The choice of a mechanical cleaning method involves the use of a pneumatic installation with a shaft and a special cleaning tool that easily crushes large particles and removes all deposits. Major cleaning should be carried out every three years.

Special pumps are used to clean drainage wells.

Flushing of all elements of the drainage system is carried out every fifteen years, and is carried out separately in each section. The procedure is performed using pumping equipment and a hose. Also, thorough flushing is provided by a compressor for supplying a compressed air jet.

Periodic flushing of the drainage system is also required.

High-quality systematic cleaning of sod from accumulations of dirt and silting is most often carried out using saltpeter:

Remove the top layer of soil down to the gravel.
Pour saltpeter on top of the crushed stone.
Thoroughly flush the system with water.
Put the turf back in place.

This cleaning option can significantly extend the life of the deep drainage system at the site. In winter, the topsoil must be kept loose enough to effectively absorb excess moisture.

Is it possible to drain the area without drainage

The most common and easy to do-it-yourself alternative types of site drainage are:

a standard backfill system, in which the role of a trench filler is performed by almost any improvised materials in the form of fragments of concrete, brick breakage, stones and fragments of hardened cement mortar with obligatory laying with a geotextile fabric;
plastic bottle drainage, in which the drainage system in a longitudinal position is located inside specially dug trenches, after which it is covered with soil and turf;
pole drainage, which involves laying special spacer poles on the bottom of the trench excavated at the site, followed by filling the space with branches and knots;
a plank system consisting of ordinary wooden boards placed at the bottom of an excavated trench to obtain a triangular structure in cross section, the top of which is directed downwards. A filter layer of moss is laid on the boards, which is sprinkled with soil and covered with turf removed when digging a trench.

One of the most common ways to equip a drainage system with your own hands with minimal time, effort and money is to use traditional fascine drainage. Inside such a system, drains are represented by bundles of rather long and straight branches - fascines. The building material for the manufacture of a fascine drainage system can be wood remaining in the process of clearing alder or willow thickets. Bundles of branches laid in excavated drainage trenches must be covered with gravel or brick battle.

Branches can be covered with broken bricks or rubble

A home-made fascinated drainage system, in comparison with prefabricated plastic structures, is less durable, since under the influence of water the branches quickly rot, and the drainage passages become clogged with silt deposits. Nevertheless, as the practice of operating such a drainage system shows, quite high-quality drainage of the site will be ensured for about two decades.

The arrangement of artificial reservoirs of various sizes contributes to the effective disposal of excess water in the territory. Such elements of modern landscape design can be arranged at a slight slope. To enhance the effect, moisture-loving vegetation is planted next to the artificial reservoir.

Compliance with the technology of arrangement and regular monitoring of the condition of the drainage system ensure uninterrupted operation for the longest possible time. Nevertheless, to increase high-quality drainage, it is advisable to equip a storm sewer at the same time with the drainage system, designed to collect precipitation and melt water from households, which will most effectively prevent soil flooding on the site.

Excessive soil moisture in the area can lead to big troubles, starting with stagnant puddles and ending with rotting plant roots, as well as the rapid destruction of the foundation of buildings. This happens if the site is located in a lowland, where rain or melt water enters and stagnates, as well as at a high level of groundwater flow. If you got just such a site, do not rush to change it to another, less problematic one. A drainage device on the site will help to solve your problem, which can be done with your own hands, without resorting to the expensive services of specialists. And how to make drainage on the site, we will tell you in detail in this article.

Drainage of the site - drainage and its types

Drainage is a system of interconnected trenches or pipes located on the territory of the garden or along the perimeter of the structure. The main task of this system is the removal of excess moisture beyond the boundaries of the site.

This is how the individual components of the drainage system work

According to their type and function, drainage systems are divided into surface and deep. Surface ones are designed to drain excess rain or melt water outside the drained area, and deep ones reduce soil moisture by reducing the level of groundwater. On the site, either one of these types of drainage, or both, located in parallel or combined into a single system, can be created.

Surface drainage is most often open and is a system of trenches dug at a certain angle and passing in places of the greatest accumulation of rain and melt water, as well as along the perimeter of the entire site. At first, water will be collected through water intake trenches into one main ditch, and then drain into a water intake (storm sewer, river, ravine).

The pipe diverts water into a special trench

Let's look at the simplest surface drainage design using a hypothetical site layout as an example. So, we have a standard area in which, after rain, water stagnates in three places (1,2,3). We do not take into account a few small puddles. The level here drops from the road towards the far left corner. Thus, the main trench (4) should pass along the far boundary of the site, and auxiliary ditches (5 and 6) will dump water from puddles into it. In the trenches (6 and 8) water is directed from the drainpipes from the roof of the house. In the event that the path that runs along the house and the utility block crosses the trench, then it must be equipped with a bridge (7).

The drainage project shows the location of areas with excess moisture and trenches on the site

Determining the slope of the drainage system

As already mentioned, trenches must be dug with a certain slope so that the water is directed by gravity towards the water intake. At the same time, the minimum slope is 0.002 in clay soils, and 0.003 in sandy soils. In practice, for the best runoff, a slope in the range of 0.005-0.01 is provided.

Installation of surface drainage

It is not difficult to arrange an open surface drainage on the site. First, according to a previously defined scheme, trenches 0.5 m wide are dug to a depth of about 0.7 m. In order to make it easier for water to flow into the ditch, its walls are formed at an angle of 30 °. Passing through open trenches, the water eventually enters the water intake, which is located below the level of surface drainage.

Such drainage very effectively intercepts and removes excess water during rain or snowmelt, and also slightly lowers the groundwater level, however, open trenches look a little aesthetically pleasing. In addition, the slopes of the ditches can collapse, making this type of drainage short-lived.

Such a movement of the soil forces the owners of the sites to build all kinds of supports for the walls or concrete them. To get around this problem, rubble dumping is sometimes used. At the same time, the lower layer of the dug ditch is covered with a large fraction of rubble, and the upper one with a fine one. Further, the backfill is covered with a layer of turf, which makes surface drainage invisible. Naturally, the walls of the trenches do not collapse with this method, however, the system itself becomes less effective.

Crushed stone backfill will help prevent soil movement

However, there is a more modern and practical way to solve this problem - to use a system of trays that fit into trenches and are covered with bars on top. Trays protect the walls of the trench from slipping soil, and gratings protect against debris. Trays can be made of plastic, concrete or polymer concrete. The most durable are plastic products, which are also characterized by low weight and exceptional wear resistance. As for the gratings, they are metal or plastic - choose what is more suitable for the design of your site. A system using trays and gratings will allow the drainage system to work for a long time and efficiently.

Select gratings taking into account the design of the rest of the site

How to make deep drainage of a summer cottage?

Deep drainage is intended to reduce soil moisture. It is necessary in cases where the site is in a lowland, swampy, located near water bodies, or it is planned to use the space under the house, for example, as an underground garage or basement. Conventional trenches are no longer enough here. You will need special perforated pipes (drains) and roll materials.

Site deep drainage scheme

Below is a diagram of the drainage system. It can be seen that the water first enters the collecting drains (1), then into the main drain (2), from where it flows into the catchment well (4) and is discharged into the water intake. Manholes (3) must also be provided in the drainage system. When arranging drainage, one of the main problems can be called the removal of collected water. Cuvettes along roadsides, ravines, storm sewer systems, rivers or streams can be used as water inlets.

An example of the layout of a deep drainage system with a lake as a water intake

Determining the depth of the drainage

In order for deep drainage to perform its function, it is necessary to place pipes below the groundwater level. And it is impossible to identify this level on your own without special knowledge. At this stage of creating a deep drainage system, it is necessary to contact surveyors and hydrogeologists, who, after taking the necessary measurements, will issue a detailed plan of the site with the groundwater level.

As a last resort, if deep drainage is required not to protect the foundation of the house from washing out, but for the normal life of plants, you can resort to a more simplified version of determining the depth of the pipes. On mineral soils, the depth of the trenches varies from 0.6 to 1.5 m. At the same time, for flower beds, lawns and flower beds it is 0.6-0.8 m, for forest tree species - about 0.9 m, for fruit trees - 1.2-1.5 m. In the event that the soil in the area is peat, then the depth of the trenches will be greater - from 1 to 1.6 m. This is due to the fact that peat soils quickly settle.

Pipes for deep drainage

For deep drainage, special perforated pipes are used, on the surface of which there is a network of holes with a diameter of 1.5-5 mm. Even in the recent past (until the mid-80s), drainage pipes were exclusively ceramic or asbestos-cement. They clogged quickly and needed frequent flushing.

Modern technologies have made it possible to simplify drainage work, thanks to the appearance of polymer pipes for hydromelioration with a diameter of 50-200 mm. Some brands of pipes are supplied with a filter shell, which protects the drainage holes from clogging with particles of sand and soil.

Installation of deep drainage

Installation of deep drainage begins with digging trenches-channels about 40 cm wide, the depth of which depends on the depth of groundwater. After that, a sand cushion and a layer of rubble are poured onto the bottom, on which, in turn, a drainage pipe is laid. After that, the pipe is again covered with rubble and sand. These layers, together with the pipe, should occupy about half the height of the trench, the remaining space is filled with compacted loam, over which a fertile layer of soil is poured. Often a layer of geotextile is placed between the gravel and sand to prevent the layers from mixing.

To monitor the drainage process, as well as to clean clogged pipes, round or rectangular manholes are provided in the drainage system. Wells are made of reinforced concrete rings or piece waterproof products. In the event that the depth of the drainage system does not exceed three meters, plastic smooth or corrugated pipes of large diameter (300-500 mm) can be used. There is no need to waterproof the wells and make them airtight, since the purpose of these structures is to monitor the flow of water in the system, as well as supply a pressurized water flow to flush clogged pipes.

The drainage well is used for flushing pipes and monitoring the condition of the drainage system

The distance between the wells along the straight line of the trench should not be more than 40-50 m. It is desirable that the well is also located at each turn or junction of the trenches.

An example of high-quality laying of a deep drainage system

The system of closed deep drainage is arranged in such a way that after the completion of installation work, it becomes almost invisible. It is disguised from views, does not interfere with the site, while performing its main function - draining the site, protecting the foundations of buildings from washing out and ensuring the normal development of plants.

If you ask any experienced builder, developer, landscape designer about what needs to be done, first of all, on a site that has just been acquired and not yet built up, the answer will be unambiguous: the first is drainage, if there is a need for it. And this is almost always the case. The drainage of the site is always associated with a very large amount of excavation, so it is better to do them right away so that later you do not disturb the beautiful landscape that any good owners equip in their possessions.

Of course, the easiest way is to order site drainage services to specialists who will do everything quickly and correctly, using special equipment. However, this will always come at a cost. Perhaps the owners did not plan these expenses, perhaps they will violate the entire budget planned for the construction and arrangement of the site. In the proposed article, we propose to consider the question of how to do the drainage of the site with your own hands, as this will save a lot of money, and in most cases it is quite possible to do these works yourself.

Why is site drainage needed?

Looking through the estimates and price lists related to the drainage of the site, some developers begin to doubt the appropriateness of these activities. And the main argument is that earlier, in principle, no one "bothered" much on this. With such an argument for refusing to drain the site, it is worth noting that the quality and comfort of human life have greatly improved. After all, no one wants to live in dampness or in a house with earthen floors. No one wants to see cracks in their house, on the blind areas and paths that appeared after the next cold season. All homeowners want to improve their yard or, to put it in a modern and fashionable way, to make landscaping. After the rain, no one wants to "knead the mud" in stagnant puddles. If so, then drainage is definitely needed. You can do without it only in very rare cases. In which cases we will describe a little later.

Drainage? No, I haven't heard...

Drainage is nothing more than the removal of excess water from the surface of the site or from the depth of the soil. Why is site drainage needed?

First of all, in order to remove excess water or from the foundations of buildings and structures. The appearance of water in the area of \u200b\u200bthe base of the foundation can either provoke a movement of the soil - the house will “float”, which is typical for clay soils, or, in combination with freezing, frost heaving forces may appear that will create efforts to “squeeze” the house out of the ground.

Drainage is designed to remove water from basements and basements. No matter how effective waterproofing is, excess water will still seep through building structures. Basements without drainage can become damp and encourage the growth of mold and other fungi. In addition, precipitation in combination with the salts present in the soil very often form aggressive chemical compounds that adversely affect building materials.

Drainage will prevent the "squeezing out" of the septic tank at a high level of groundwater. Without drainage, a wastewater treatment system will not last long.
Drainage in conjunction with the system and around the buildings ensures that water is quickly removed, preventing it from seeping into the underground parts of the buildings.
Drainage prevents waterlogging of the soil. In areas equipped with well-planned and made drainage, water will not stagnate.
Waterlogged soil can cause rotting of the root parts of plants. Drainage prevents this and creates conditions for the growth of all garden, garden and ornamental plants.
With heavy precipitation in areas that have a slope, the fertile soil layer can be washed out by water flows. Drainage directs water flows into the drainage system, thereby preventing soil erosion.

Water erosion of fertile soil in the absence of drainage is a serious problem in agriculture

If the site is surrounded by a fence built on a strip foundation, then it can “seal” the natural ways of water drainage, creating conditions for waterlogging the soil. Drainage is designed to remove excess water from the perimeter of the site.
Drainage helps to avoid the formation of puddles on playgrounds, sidewalks and garden paths.

When Drainage Is Necessary Anyway

Consider those cases when drainage is needed in any case:

If the site is located on a flat area, then drainage is required, since when a large amount of precipitation falls or snow melts, the water will simply have nowhere to go. According to the laws of physics, water always goes under the influence of gravity to a lower place, and on a flat landscape it will intensively soak the soil in a downward direction, which can lead to waterlogging. So, from a drainage point of view, it is beneficial for the site to have a slight slope.
If the site is located in a lowland, then its drainage is definitely needed, since water will drain from higher places to those below.
Strongly sloping sites also require drainage, as rapidly draining water will erode the top fertile soil layers. It is better to direct these flows into drainage channels or pipes. Then the main part of the water will go through them, preventing the soil layer from washing out.
If the site is dominated by clay and heavy loamy soils, then after precipitation or snow melt, water will often stagnate on them. Such soils prevent its penetration into the deep layers. Therefore, drainage is required.
If the groundwater level (GWL) in the area is less than 1 meter, then drainage is indispensable.

If the buildings on the site have a heavily buried foundation, then it is likely that its sole will be in the zone of seasonal rise in groundwater. Therefore, it is necessary to plan drainage at the stage of foundation work.
If a significant part of the site area is covered with artificial coverings made of concrete, paving stones or paving slabs, and if there are lawns equipped with an automatic irrigation system, then drainage is also needed.

From this impressive list, it becomes clear that drainage to one degree or another is necessary in most cases. But before you plan and do it, you need to study the site.

Studying the site for relief, soil type and groundwater level

Each site is individual in terms of relief, soil composition and groundwater level. Even two sites located nearby can be very different from each other, although there will still be a lot in common between them. Modern construction requirements suggest that the design of a house should begin only after geological and geodetic surveys have been carried out with the preparation of special reports that contain a lot of data, most of which are understandable only to specialists. If they are “translated” into the language of ordinary citizens who do not have education in the field of geology, hydrogeology and geodesy, then they can be listed as follows:

Topographic survey of the area where it is supposed. The photographs must show the cadastral boundaries of the site.
A characteristic of the relief, which should indicate what type of relief is present on the site (wavy or flat). If there are slopes, then their presence and direction are indicated, it is in their direction that water will flow. Attached is a topographic plan of the site indicating the contour lines of the relief.

Characteristics of the soil, what kind of soil it is and at what depth it lies on the site. To do this, experts drill exploratory wells in different places of the site, from where they take samples, which are then examined in the laboratory.
Physical and chemical properties of the soil. Its ability to be load-bearing for the planned house, as well as soil in combination with water, will affect concrete, metal and other building materials.
The presence and depth of groundwater, their seasonal fluctuations, taking into account exploration, archival and analytical data. It is also indicated in which soils water can appear and how they will affect the planned building structures.

The degree of heaving of soils, the possibility of landslides, subsidence, flooding and swelling.

The result of all these studies should be recommendations on the design and depth of the foundation, the degree of waterproofing, insulation, protection from aggressive chemical compounds, and drainage. It happens that on an impeccable-looking site, experts, in general, will not allow building such a house as the owners intended. For example, a house with a basement was planned, and a high GWL forces specialists to recommend not to do this, therefore, instead of the originally planned strip foundation with a basement, they will recommend a pile foundation without underground facilities. There is no reason not to trust both these studies and specialists, since they have indisputable tools in their hands - measurements, drilling, laboratory experiments, statistics and calculations.

Of course, geological and geodetic surveys are not done free of charge, and they are done at the expense of the developer and they are mandatory on a new site. This fact is often the subject of indignation of some owners, but it should be understood that this procedure will help save a lot of money during the construction and further operation of the house, as well as maintaining the site in good condition. Therefore, this seemingly unnecessary and expensive bureaucracy is necessary and very useful.

If the site is purchased with existing buildings that have been in operation for at least a few years, then you can also order geological and geodetic surveys, but you can do without them, and learn about groundwater, its seasonal rise and unpleasant impact on human life on other grounds. Of course, this will be with a certain degree of risk, but in most cases it works. What you should pay attention to?

First of all, this is communication with the former owners of the site. It is clear that it is not always in their interests to talk in detail about the problems with flooding, but, nevertheless, you can always find out if any drainage measures have been taken. This will not be hidden for anything.
Inspection of the basement can also tell a lot about something. Regardless of whether cosmetic repairs were made there. If there is an increased level of humidity in the premises, then this will be immediately felt.

Getting to know your neighbors and interviewing them can be much more informative than talking to the former owners of the site and the house.
If there are wells or wells on your site and neighboring ones, then the water level in them will eloquently report on the GWL. Moreover, it is desirable to observe how the level changes in different seasons. Theoretically, the maximum water should rise in the spring after the snow has melted. In summer, if there were dry periods, the groundwater level should fall.
Plants growing on the site can also “tell” a lot to the owner. The presence of plants such as cattail, reeds, sedge, horse sorrel, nettle, hemlock, foxglove indicate that groundwater is at a level of no more than 2.5-3 meters. If even during a drought these plants continue their rapid growth, then this once again indicates the proximity of water. If licorice or wormwood grow on the site, then this is evidence that the water is at a safe depth.

Some sources speak of an old way of determining the level of groundwater, which was used by our ancestors before building a house. To do this, a piece of turf was removed in the area of interest and a shallow hole was dug, on the bottom of which a piece of wool was laid, an egg was placed on it, and covered with an inverted clay pot and the removed turf. After dawn and sunrise, the pot was removed and watched as the dew fell. If the egg and wool are in dew, then the water is shallow. If dew fell only on wool, then there is water, but it is at a safe depth. If both the egg and the wool are dry, then the water is very deep. It may seem that this method is akin to quackery or shamanism, but in fact it has an absolutely correct explanation, from the point of view of science.
The growth of bright grass on the site even during a drought, as well as the appearance of fog in the evening hours, indicates the proximity of groundwater.
The best way to independently determine the groundwater level at the site is to drill test wells. To do this, you can use a regular garden drill with extension cords. Drilling is best done during the highest rise of water, that is, in the spring after the snow melts. First of all, wells should be made at the construction site of a house or an existing building. The well should be drilled to the depth of the foundation plus 50 cm. If water begins to appear in the well immediately or after 1-2 days, this indicates that drainage measures are mandatory.

Beginner's Geologist's Kit - Garden Drill with Extension

If, after rain, puddles stagnate on the site, then this may indicate the proximity of groundwater, as well as the fact that the soil is clayey or heavy loamy, which prevents the water from going deep into the ground. In this case, drainage is also necessary. It will also be very useful to update the fertile soil to a lighter one, then there will be no problems with growing most garden and garden plants.

Even a very high level of groundwater in the area, although it is a big problem, is a problem that can be completely solved with the help of well-calculated and well-executed drainage. Let's give a good example - more than half of the territory of Holland lies below sea level, including the capital - the famous Amsterdam. The groundwater level in this country can be at a depth of several centimeters. Those who have been to Holland noticed that after rain there are puddles that do not soak into the ground, because they simply have nowhere to soak. Nevertheless, in this cozy country, the issue of draining the land is being solved with the help of a set of measures: dams, dams, polders, locks, canals. The Netherlands even has a special department - Watershap, which deals with flood protection. The abundance of many windmills in this country does not at all mean that they grind grain. Most mills are pumping water.

We do not call for a special purchase of a site with a high level of groundwater, on the contrary, this should be avoided by all possible means. And the example of Holland was given only so that readers could understand that there is a solution to any problem with groundwater. Moreover, in most of the territory of the former USSR, settlements and summer cottages are located in areas where the groundwater level is within acceptable limits, and you can cope with seasonal rises on your own.

Types of drainage systems

There are a great variety of drainage systems and their varieties. Moreover, in different sources, their classification systems may differ from each other. We will try to talk about the simplest, from a technical point of view, drainage systems, but at the same time effective ones that will help solve the problem of removing excess water from the site. Another argument in favor of simplicity is that the fewer elements any system has and the more time it can do without human intervention, the more reliable it will be.

Surface drainage

This type of drainage is the simplest, but, nevertheless, quite effective. It is intended mainly for the removal of water coming in the form of precipitation or snowmelt, as well as for the removal of excess water during any technological processes, for example, when washing cars or garden paths. Surface drainage is done in any case around buildings or other structures, sites, places of exit from the garage or yard. Surface drainage is of two main types:

Point drainage designed to collect and drain water from a specific place. This type of drainage is also called local drainage. The main locations for point drainage are under roof gutters, in pits in front of doors and garage doors, and at the locations of irrigation taps. And also point drainage, in addition to its direct purpose, can complement another type of surface drainage system.

Rain inlet - the main element of point surface drainage

Linear drainage needed to remove water from a larger area compared to a point. It is a collection trays and channels, mounted with a slope, equipped with various elements: sand traps (sand traps), protective grilles , performing a filtering, protective and decorative function. Trays and channels can be made from a variety of materials. First of all, it is plastic in the form of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), polypropylene (PP), low-pressure polyethylene (HDPE). And also materials such as concrete or polymer concrete are widely used. Grates are most often used plastic, but in those areas where increased load is expected, stainless steel or even cast iron products can be used. Work on the organization of linear drainage requires concrete preparation of the base.

Obviously, any good surface drainage system almost always combines elements of point and linear. And all of them are combined into a common drainage system, which may also include another subsystem, which we will consider in the next section of our article.

rain gutter prices

storm water inlet

deep drainage

In most cases, surface drainage alone cannot be dispensed with. To qualitatively solve the problem, we need a different type of drainage - deep, which is a system of special drainage pipes (drains) , laid in those places where it is required to lower the level of groundwater or divert water from the protected area. Drains are laid with a slope to the side collector, well , artificial or natural reservoir on the site or beyond. Naturally, they are laid below the level of the base of the foundation of the protected building or along the perimeter of the site at a depth of 0.8-1.5 meters to lower the groundwater level to non-critical values. Drains can also be laid in the middle of the site with a certain interval, which is calculated by experts. Typically, the interval between the pipes is 10-20 meters, and they are laid in the form of a Christmas tree, directed to the main outlet pipe-collector. It all depends on the level of groundwater and their quantity.

When laying drains in trenches, it is imperative to use all the features of the site relief. Water will always move from a higher place to a lower one, so the drains are laid in the same way. It is much more difficult if the site is absolutely flat, then the pipes are given the desired slope by giving a certain level to the bottom of the trenches. It is customary to make a slope of 2 cm per 1 meter of pipe for clay and loamy soils and 3 cm per 1 meter for sandy soils. Obviously, with sufficiently long drains, it will be difficult to maintain the desired slope on a flat area, since the level difference will already be 20 or 30 cm per 10 meters of the pipe, so the necessary measure is the organization of several drainage wells that will be able to receive the required volume of water.

It should be noted that even with a smaller slope, water, even at 1 cm per 1 meter or less, will still, obeying the laws of physics, try to go below the level, but the flow rate will be less, and this can contribute to silting and clogging of drains. And any owner who has laid sewer or drainage pipes at least once in his life knows that it is much more difficult to maintain a very small slope than a larger one. Therefore, you should not be “embarrassed” in this matter and boldly set a slope of 3, 4 and even 5 cm per meter of the drainage pipe, if the length and the planned difference in the depth of the trench allow.

Drainage wells are one of the most important components of deep drainage. They can be of three main types:

Rotary wells – suit where the drains make a turn or there is a connection of several elements. These elements are needed for the revision and cleaning of the drainage system, which must be done periodically. They can be as small in diameter, which will only allow cleaning and washing with a jet of water under pressure, but they can also be wide, which provide human access.

Water intake wells - their purpose is absolutely clear from their name. In those areas where it is not possible to divert water into the depths or beyond, it becomes necessary to collect water. These wells are designed for just that. Previously, they were mainly a structure made of cast-in-place concrete, concrete rings or bricks plastered with cement mortar. Now, plastic containers of various sizes are most often used, which are protected from clogging or silting with geotextiles and sprinkling of crushed stone or gravel. Water collected in a water intake well can be pumped out of the site using special submersible drainage pumps, can be pumped out and taken out by tankers, or can be settled in a well or pool for further irrigation.

absorption wells designed to drain water in the event that the terrain of the site does not allow moisture to be removed beyond its limits, but the underlying soil layers have good absorbency. These soils include sandy and sandy loam. Such wells are made of large diameters (about 1.5 meters) and depths (at least 2 meters). The well is filled with filter material in the form of sand, sand-gravel mixture, crushed stone, gravel, broken brick or slag. To prevent the ingress of eroded fertile soil or various blockages from above, the well is also covered with fertile soil. Naturally, the side walls and the bottom are protected by sprinkling. Water, falling into such a well, is filtered by its contents and goes deep into sandy or sandy loamy soils. The ability of such wells to remove water from the site may be limited, so they are arranged when the expected throughput should not exceed 1-1.5 m 3 per day.

Of the drainage systems, the main and most important is deep drainage, since it is it that provides the necessary water regime for both the site and all the buildings located on it. Any mistake in the design and installation of deep drainage can lead to very unpleasant consequences, which can lead to the death of plants, flooding of basements, destruction of house foundations, and uneven drainage of the site. That is why it is recommended not to neglect geological and geodetic studies and ordering a drainage system project from specialists. If it is possible to correct flaws in surface drainage without a strong violation of the landscape of the site, then with deep drainage everything is much more serious, the price of a mistake is too high.

Well prices

Overview of accessories for drainage systems

For self-execution of the drainage of the site and the buildings located on it, you need to find out what components will be required for this. Of the widest selection of them, we have tried to show the most used at the present time. If earlier the market was dominated by Western manufacturers, who, as monopolists, dictated high prices for their products, now a sufficient number of domestic enterprises offer their products, which are in no way inferior in quality.

Details for surface drainage

For point and linear surface drainage, the following parts can be used:

Name, manufacturer	Purpose and description
Tray drainage concrete 1000140125 mm with a steel stamped galvanized lattice. Production - Russia.	Designed for surface water drainage. Capacity 4.18 l/s, able to withstand loads up to 1.5 tons (A15).	880 rub.
Concrete drainage tray with cast-iron grate, dimensions 1000140125 mm. Production - Russia.	The purpose and throughput are the same as in the previous example. Able to withstand loads up to 25 tons (C250).	1480 rub.
Concrete drainage tray with steel galvanized mesh grid, dimensions 1000140125 mm. Production - Russia.	The purpose and throughput are the same. Able to withstand loads up to 12.5 tons (B125).	1610 rub.
Polymer concrete drainage tray 100014070 mm with plastic grating. Production - Russia.	The purpose is the same, the throughput is 1.9 l / s. Able to withstand loads up to 1.5 tons (A15). The material combines the advantages of plastic and concrete.	820 rub.
Polymer concrete drainage tray 100014070 mm with cast-iron grate. Production - Russia.	throughput is the same. Able to withstand up to 25 tons of load (C250).	1420 rub.
Polymer concrete drainage tray 100014070 mm with steel mesh grating. Production - Russia.	throughput is the same. Able to withstand up to 12.5 tons of load (B125).	1550 rub.
Tray plastic drainage 100014560 mm with a galvanized stamped lattice. Production - Russia.	Made from frost-resistant polypropylene. Throughput 1.8 l/sec. Able to withstand loads up to 1.5 tons (A15).	760 rub.
Plastic drainage tray 100014560 mm with cast-iron grate. Production - Russia.	Throughput 1.8 l/sec. Able to withstand loads up to 25 tons (C250).	1360 rub.
Completed plastic rainwater inlet (siphon-partitions 2 pcs., Waste basket - 1 pc.). Size 300300300 mm. With plastic grid. Production - Russia.	Designed for point drainage of water flowing from the roof through the downpipe, and can also be used to collect water under yard, garden watering taps. Can be connected to fittings with diameters of 75, 110, 160 mm. Removable basket provides quick cleaning. Withstands loads up to 1.5 tons (A15).	For a set together with siphon partitions, a waste basket and a plastic grate - 1000 rubles.
Completed plastic rainwater inlet (siphon-partitions 2 pcs., Waste basket - 1 pc.). Size 300300300 mm. With cast-iron grate "Snowflake". Production - Russia.	The purpose is similar to the previous one. Withstands loads up to 25 tons (C250).	For a set together with siphon partitions, a waste basket and a cast-iron grate - 1550 rubles.
Sand trap - plastic with a galvanized steel grate. Dimensions 500116320 mm.	Designed to collect dirt and debris in surface linear drainage systems. It is installed at the end of the line of gutters (trays) and later it joins the pipes of the storm sewer system with a diameter of 110 mm. Able to withstand loads up to 1.5 tons (A15).	For a set together with gratings 975 rubles.

In the table, we deliberately showed Russian-made trays and storm water inlets, made of materials that differ from each other and have different configurations. It is also worth noting that the trays have different widths and depths and, accordingly, their throughput is also not the same. There are a lot of options for the materials from which they are made and sizes, there is no need to give them all, since it depends on many factors: the required throughput, the expected load on the soil, the specific scheme for implementing the drainage system. That is why it is best to entrust the calculations of the drainage system to specialists who will calculate the required size and quantity, and select the components.

There was absolutely no need to talk about possible accessories for drainage trays, storm water inlets and sand traps in the table, since in each individual case they will be different. When buying, if there is a system project, the seller will always tell you the ones you need. They can be end caps for trays, mounts for gratings, various corner and transition elements, reinforcing profiles, and others.

A few words should be said about sand traps and storm water inlets. If the surface linear drainage around the house is implemented with storm water inlets in the corners (and this is usually done), then sand traps will not be required. Rain inlets with siphon partitions and waste baskets do an excellent job with their role. If the linear drainage does not have storm water inlets and goes into the sewer drainage pipe, then a sand trap is required. That is, any transition from drainage trays to pipes must be done either with the help of a storm inlet or a sand trap. Only this way and not otherwise! This is done so that sand and various heavy debris do not get into the pipes, as this can lead to their rapid wear, and both they and the drainage wells will become clogged over time. It is hard to disagree that it is easier to periodically remove and wash the baskets while on the surface than to go down into the wells.

Surface drainage also includes wells and pipes, but they will be discussed in the next section, since, in principle, they are the same for both types of systems.

Details for deep drainage

Deep drainage is a more complex engineering system that requires more details. In the table we present only the main ones, since all their diversity will take up a lot of space and attention of our readers. If desired, it will not be difficult to find catalogs of manufacturers of these systems, select the necessary parts and accessories for them.

Name and manufacturer	Purpose and description	Approximate price (as of October 2016)
Drainage pipe with a diameter of 63 mm made of HDPE corrugated single-walled in a geotextile filter. Producer "Sibur", Russia.	Designed to remove excess moisture from foundations and sites. Wrapped with geotextile to prevent clogging of pores with soil, sand, which prevents clogging and silting. They have a full (circular) perforation. Made from low pressure polyethylene (HDPE). Rigidity class SN-4. Depth of laying up to 4 m.	For 1 r.p. 48 rub.
Drainage pipe with a diameter of 110 mm made of HDPE corrugated single-walled in a geotextile filter. Producer "Sibur", Russia.	similar to above	For 1 r.p. 60 rub.
Drainage pipe with a diameter of 160 mm made of HDPE corrugated single-walled in a geotextile filter. Producer "Sibur", Russia.	similar to above	For 1 r.p. 115 rub.
Drainage pipe with a diameter of 200 mm made of HDPE corrugated single-walled in a geotextile filter. Producer "Sibur", Russia.	similar to above	For 1 r.p. 190 rub.
Single-wall corrugated drainage pipes made of HDPE with a coconut coir filter with diameters of 90, 110, 160, 200 mm. Country of manufacture - Russia.	Designed to remove excess moisture from foundations and sites on clay and peat soils. Coconut coir has increased reclamation and strength compared to geotextiles. They have circular perforations. Rigidity class SN-4. Depth of laying up to 4 m.	219, 310, 744, 1074 rubles. for 1 r.m. (depending on diameter).
Two-layer drainage pipes with Typar SF-27 geotextile filter. The outer layer of HDPE is corrugated, the inner layer of HDPE is smooth. Diameters 110, 160, 200 mm. Country of origin - Russia.	Are intended for removal of excess moisture from the bases and sites on all types of soils. They have a full (circular) perforation. The outer layer protects against mechanical stress, and the inner layer allows more water to be removed due to its smooth surface. The two-layer design has a stiffness class of SN-6 and allows you to lay pipes at a depth of up to 6 meters.	160, 240, 385 rubles. for 1 r.m. (depending on diameter).
PVC pipes for sewerage are smooth with a socket with an outer diameter of 110, 125, 160, 200 mm, length 1061, 1072, 1086, 1106 mm, respectively. Country of origin - Russia.	Designed for organizing an external sewer system, as well as storm sewer or drainage systems. They have a stiffness class of SN-4, which allows them to be laid at a depth of up to 4 meters.	180, 305, 270, 490 rubles. for pipes: 1101061 mm, 1251072 mm, 1601086 mm, 2001106 mm respectively.
Well shafts with a diameter of 340, 460, 695, 923 mm from HDPE. Country of origin - Russia.	Are intended for creation of drainage wells (rotary, water intake, absorption). They have a two-layer construction. Ring stiffness SN-4. The maximum length is 6 meters.	950, 1650, 3700, 7400 rubles for wells with diameters of 340, 460, 695, 923 mm, respectively.
Bottom-plug of wells with diameters of 340, 460, 695, 923 mm from HDPE. Country of origin - Russia.	Designed to create drainage wells: rotary or water intake.	940, 1560, 4140, 7100 for wells with diameters of 340, 460, 695, 923 mm, respectively.
Inserts into the well in place with diameters of 110, 160, 200 mm. Country of origin - Russia.	Designed for insertion into a well at any level of sewer or drainage pipes of appropriate diameters.	350, 750, 2750 rubles for inserts with diameters of 110, 160, 200 mm, respectively.
Hatch polymer concrete for drainage wells with a diameter of 340 mm. Country of origin - Russia.		500 rub.
Hatch polymer concrete for drainage wells with a diameter of 460 mm. Country of origin - Russia.	It is intended for installation on drainage wells. Withstands loads up to 1.5 tons.	850 rub.
Polyester geotextile with a density of 100 g/m². Country of origin - Russia.	Used to create drainage systems. It is not subject to rotting, influence of a mold, rodents and insects. Roll length from 1 to 6 m.	20 rub. for 1 m².

The presented table shows that the cost of even Russian-made parts for drainage systems can hardly be called cheap. But the effect of their use will delight the owners of the site for at least 50 years. It is about this service life that the manufacturer claims. Considering that the material for manufacturing drainage parts is absolutely inert with respect to all substances found in nature, it can be assumed that the service life will be much longer than stated.

We deliberately did not indicate the previously widely used asbestos-cement or ceramic pipes in the table, since apart from the high price and difficulties in transportation and installation, they will not bring anything. This is yesterday's age.

To create drainage systems, there are still a lot of components from various manufacturers. These include tray parts, which can be throughput, connecting, prefabricated and dead-end. They are designed to connect drainage pipes of various diameters to wells. They provide connections for drainage pipes at various angles.

With all the obvious advantages of tray parts with pipe sockets, their price is very high. For example, the part shown in the figure above costs 7 thousand rubles. Therefore, in most cases, inserts into the well are used, as indicated in the table. Another advantage of tie-ins is that they can be done at any level and at any angle to each other.

In addition to those parts for drainage systems that are indicated in the table, there are many others that are selected by calculation and during installation on site. These may include various cuffs and o-rings, couplings, tees and crosses, check valves for drainage and sewer pipes, eccentric transitions and necks, bends, plugs and much more. Their correct selection should be dealt with, first of all, during the design, and then make adjustments during installation.

Video: How to choose a drainage pipe

Video: Drainage wells

If readers find articles on drainage on the Internet that say that it is easy to make drainage with your own hands, then we advise you to immediately close this article without reading it. Making drainage with your own hands is not an easy task. But, the main thing is that it is possible if you do everything consistently and correctly.

Site drainage design

The drainage system is a complex engineering object that requires an appropriate attitude. Therefore, we recommend that our readers order the design of the drainage of the site from professionals who will take into account absolutely everything: the relief of the site, the existing (or planned) buildings, the composition of the soil, and the depth of the GWL, and other factors. After the design, the customer will have a set of documents in his hands, which includes:

Site plan with its relief.
A scheme for laying pipes for wall or ring drainage, indicating the section and type of pipes, the depth of occurrence, the required slopes, and the location of the wells.
The drainage scheme of the site, also indicating the depth of the trenches, types of pipes, slopes, the distance between adjacent drains, the location of rotary or water intake wells.

It will be difficult to independently make a detailed design of the drainage system without knowledge and experience. That is why you should turn to professionals

Scheme of surface point and linear drainage indicating the size of trays, sand traps, storm water inlets, used sewer pipes, location of water intake wells.
Transverse dimensions of trenches for near-wall and deep drainage, indicating the depth, material and thickness of the backfill, type of geotextile used.
Calculation of necessary components and materials.
An explanatory note to the project describing the entire drainage system and the technology for performing work.

The project of the drainage system of the site is much lower than the architectural one, so we once again strongly advise you to contact the specialists. This minimizes the likelihood of errors during self-arrangement of drainage.

Wall drainage equipment at home

To protect the foundations of houses from the effects of groundwater, the so-called wall drainage is made, which is located around the entire house on its outer side at some distance from the base of the foundation. usually it is 0.3-0.5 m, but in any case not more than 1 meter. Wall drainage is done even at the stage of building a house, along with measures for warming and waterproofing the foundation. When is this type of drainage necessary anyway?

Prices for drainage systems

When the house has a basement.

When the buried parts of the foundation are at a distance of no more than 0.5 meters above the groundwater level.
When a house is built on clay or loamy soils.

All modern house designs almost always provide wall drainage. An exception can only be those cases when the foundation is laid on sandy soils that do not freeze through more than 80 cm.

A typical wall drainage design is shown in the figure.

At some distance from the base of the foundation, approximately 30 cm below its level, a leveling layer of sand 10 cm is made, on which a geotextile membrane with a density of at least 150 g / m² is laid, on which a layer of crushed stone of a fraction of 20-40 mm with a thickness of at least 10 cm is poured. Instead of crushed stone, washed gravel may well be used. Crushed stone is better to use granite, but not limestone, since the latter tends to gradually erode with water. A drainage pipe wrapped with geotextile is laid on a crushed stone pillow. The pipes are given the desired slope - at least 2 cm per 1 linear meter of the pipe.

In the places where the pipe turns, inspection and inspection wells are necessarily made. The rules allow them to be done through one turn, but practice suggests that it is better not to save on this and put them on every turn. The slope of the pipes is done in one direction (in the figure from point K1, through points K2 and K3, to point K4). In this case, it is necessary to take into account the terrain. It is assumed that point K1 is at the highest point, and K4 at the lowest.

Drains are inserted into wells not from the very foundation, but with an indent of at least 20 cm from the bottom. Then the small debris or silt that has fallen will not linger in the pipes, but will settle in the well. In the future, when revising the system, you can wash out the silted bottom with a strong jet of water, which will carry away everything unnecessary. If the soil in the area where the wells are located has a good absorbing capacity, then the bottom is not made. In all other cases, it is better to equip the wells with a bottom.

A layer of crushed stone or washed gravel with a thickness of at least 20 cm is again poured over the drains, and then it is wrapped around with the previously laid geotextile membrane. On top of such a “wrapped” structure made of a drainage pipe and rubble, a backfill of sand is made, and on top, after it is compacted, a blind area of the building is already organized, which is also called upon, but already in the system of surface linear drainage. Even if atmospheric water enters from the outside of the foundation, then, having passed through the sand, it will fall into the drains and eventually merge into the main collector well, which can be equipped with a pump. If the relief of the site allows, then an overflow is made from the collector well without a pump, which removes water outside into a gutter, an artificial or natural reservoir, or a storm sewer system. Under no circumstances should drainage be connected to a conventional sewer system.

If groundwater begins to "support" from below, then they, first of all, impregnate the sandy preparation and crushed stone in which the drains are located. The speed of water movement along the drains is higher than in the ground, so the water is quickly removed and drained into a collector well, which is laid lower than the drains. It turns out that inside a closed circuit of drainage pipes, water simply cannot rise above the level of the drains, which means that the base of the foundation and the floor in the basement will be dry.

Such a wall drainage scheme is very often used and works very effectively. But it has a significant drawback. This is backfilling of the entire sinus between the foundation and the edge of the pit with sand. Given the considerable volume of the sinus, you will have to pay a tidy sum for this filling. But there is a beautiful way out of this situation. In order not to backfill with sand, you can use a special profiled geomembrane, which is a sheet of HDPE or PVD with various additives, which has a relief surface in the form of small truncated cones. When the underground part of the foundation is pasted over with such a membrane, it performs two main functions.

The geomembrane itself is an excellent waterproofing agent. It does not allow moisture to penetrate to the walls of the underground foundation structure.
The relief surface of the membrane ensures that the water that appears on it flows down freely, where it is “intercepted” by the laid drains.

The design of wall drainage using a geomembrane is shown in the following figure.

On the outer wall of the foundation, after the measures and insulation (if necessary), the geomembrane is glued or mechanically fastened with the relief part (pimples) outward. A geotextile fabric with a density of 150-200 g / m² is fixed on top of it, which will prevent soil particles from clogging the relief part of the geomembrane. Further organization of drainage is usually carried out: a drain is placed on a layer of sand, covered with crushed stone and wrapped with geotextile. Only backfilling of the sinuses is not done with sand or gravel, but with ordinary soil excavated when digging a pit or clay, which is much cheaper.

Drainage of water, "supporting" the foundation from below, proceeds as in the previous case. But water that has entered the wall from the outside through moistened soil or penetrated into the gap between the foundation and the soil will follow the path of least resistance: seep through the geotextile, flow freely along the relief surface of the geomembrane, pass through the rubble and fall into the drain. Foundations protected in this way will not be threatened for a minimum of 30-50 years. In the basement floors of such houses it will always be dry.

Consider the main stages of creating a wall drainage system at home.

Image	Description of actions
	After the measures for the construction of the foundation, its primary coating, and then rolled waterproofing and insulation, have been carried out, the geomembrane is glued with the relief part outward on the outer wall of the foundation, including its sole, using a special mastic that does not corrode polystyrene foam. The upper part of the membrane should protrude beyond the level of the future backfill by at least 20 cm, and the lower part should reach the very bottom of the foundation, including the sole.
	The joints of most geomembranes have a special lock, which is "snapped" by overlapping one sheet over another, and then tapping with a rubber mallet.
	A geotextile fabric with a density of 150-200 g/m² is attached over the geomembrane. It is better to use not needle-punched, but thermally bonded geotextiles, as it is less prone to clogging. For fixing, dish-shaped dowels are used. The fixing step of the dowels is no more than 1 m horizontally and no more than 2 m vertically. The overlap of adjacent geotextile sheets on each other is at least 10-15 cm. Dish-shaped dowels should fall at the junction.
	In the upper part of the geomembrane and geotextile, it is recommended to use a special mounting strip, which will press both layers to the foundation structure.
	The bottom of the pit from the outside of the foundation is cleaned to the required level. The level can be controlled with a theodolite with a measuring bar, a laser level and a handy wooden bar with marked marks, stretched and set with a tensioned cord using a hydraulic level. You can also “beat off” a horizontal line on the wall and measure the depth with a tape measure.
	Washed sand is poured at the bottom with a layer of at least 10 cm, which is wetted with water and rammed mechanically or manually until there are practically no traces left when walking.
	In the designated places, inspection and inspection wells are installed. To do this, it is enough to use mines with a diameter of 340 or 460 mm. Having measured the desired length, they can be cut either with a conventional hacksaw for wood, or with an electric jigsaw, or with a reciprocating saw. Initially, the wells must be cut 20-30 cm more than the estimated length, and later, when designing the landscape, already fit it under it.
	Bottoms are installed on the wells. To do this, in single-layer wells (for example, Wavin), a rubber cuff is placed in the rib of the body, then it is lubricated with soapy water and the bottom is put on. It must go in with force.
	In Russian-made two-layer wells, before installing the cuff, it is necessary to cut out a strip of the inner layer with a knife, and then do the same as in the previous case.
	Wells are installed in their intended places. Sites for their installation are compacted and leveled. On their side surfaces, marks are made for the entrance and exit of the centers of drains (taking into account slopes of 2 cm per 1 linear meter of pipe). We remind you that the entrances and exits of drains must be at least 20 cm from the bottom.
	For the convenience of inserting couplings, it is better to place the wells horizontally and make holes corresponding to the coupling with a crown with a center drill. In the absence of a crown, you can make holes with a jigsaw, but this requires certain skills.
	After that, the edges are cleaned of burrs with a knife or brush.
	The outer rubber cuff of the coupling is placed inside the hole. It should equally go inside the well and stay outside (about 2 cm each).
	The inner surface of the rubber cuff of the coupling is lubricated with soapy water, and then the plastic part is inserted until it stops. The joints of the rubber part of the coupling to the well can be smeared with a waterproof sealant.
	Wells are installed in their places and aligned vertically. Geotextiles are laid out on a sand cushion. Granite crushed stone of a fraction of 5-20 mm or washed gravel with a layer of at least 10 cm is poured on it. In this case, the necessary slopes of the drainage pipes are taken into account. Crushed stone is leveled and compacted.
	Perforated drainage pipes of the required size are measured and cut. Pipes are inserted into couplings cut into wells after lubricating the cuff with soapy water. Their slope is checked.
	A layer of crushed stone or gravel of at least 20 cm is poured on top of the drains. Then the edges of the geotextile fabric are wrapped on top of each other and a 20 cm layer of sand is sprinkled on top.
	In the intended place, a pit is dug for the collector well of the drainage system. The level of its occurrence, of course, must be below the lowest drain in order to receive water from the wall drainage. To this pit, a trench is dug from the lower level of the inspection and inspection well for laying a sewer pipe.
	Shafts with diameters of 460, 695 and even 930 mm can be used as a collector well. A prefabricated well made of reinforced concrete rings can also be equipped. Inserting a sewer pipe into a receiving collector well is done in exactly the same way as drains.
	The sewer pipe leading from the lower wall drainage well to the collector well is laid on a 10 cm sand cushion and sprinkled with sand of at least 10 cm thickness on top. After compacting the sand, the trench is covered with soil.
	The system is checked for functionality. To do this, water is poured into the topmost well in terms of level. After filling the bottom, water should begin to flow through the drains into other wells and, after filling their bottoms, eventually flow into the collector well. There should be no reverse current.
	After checking the performance of the sinuses between the edge of the pit, they are covered with soil. It is preferable to use quarry clay for this, which will create a waterproof lock around the foundation.
	The wells are covered with lids to prevent clogging. Final pruning and installation of covers should be done along with landscaping.

The collection well can be equipped with a check valve, which, even if it is overflowing, will not allow water to flow back into the drains. And also in the well can be automatic. When the GWL rises to critical values, water will collect in the well. The pump is set up so that when a certain level is exceeded in the well, it will turn on and pump water out of the site or into other containers or reservoirs. Thus, the GWL in the foundation area will always be lower than the laid drains.

It happens that one collector well is used for the wall drainage system and the surface one. Experts do not recommend doing this, since during intense snowmelt or heavy rains, a very large amount of water will be collected in a short time, which will only interfere with inspecting the GWL in the foundation area. Water from precipitation and melted snow is best collected in separate containers and used for irrigation. In case of overflow of storm wells, water from them can be pumped in the same way to another place with a drainage pump.

Video: Wall drainage at home

Ring drainage equipment at home

Annular drainage, unlike wall drainage, is located not close to the foundation structure, but at some distance from it: from 2 to 10 meters or more. In what cases is ring drainage arranged?

If the house has already been built and any intervention in the foundation structure is undesirable.
If the house does not have a basement.
If the house or group of buildings is built on sandy or sandy loamy soils that have good water permeability.
If other types of drainage cannot cope with the seasonal rise of groundwater.

Regardless of the fact that ring drainage is much simpler in practical implementation, it should be treated more seriously than wall drainage. Why?

A very important characteristic is the depth of the drains. In any case, the laying depth must be greater than the depth of the base of the foundation or the level of the basement floor.
The distance from the foundation to the drain is also an important characteristic. The more sandy the soil, the greater the distance should be. And vice versa - the more clay soils, the closer the drains can be located to the foundation.
When calculating the ring foundation, the level of groundwater, its seasonal fluctuations and the direction of their inflow are also taken into account.

Based on the foregoing, we can safely say that it is better to entrust the calculation of the annular drainage to specialists. It would seem that the closer the drain is to the house and the deeper it is laid, the better it will be for the protected structure. It turns out not! Any drainage changes the hydrogeological situation in the foundation area, which is far from always good. The task of drainage is not to completely drain the site, but to lower the GWL to such values that will not interfere with human and plant life. Drainage is a kind of contract with the forces of Mother Nature, and not an attempt to "rewrite" existing laws.

One of the options for the device of the annular drainage system is shown in the figure.

It can be seen that a trench has been dug around the house outside the blind area to such a depth that the upper part of the drainage pipe lies 30-50 cm below the lowest point of the foundation. The trench is lined with geotextiles and the pipe itself is also in a shell of it. The minimum underlying layer of crushed stone should be at least 10 cm. The minimum slope of drains with a diameter of 110-200 mm is 2 cm per 1 linear meter of pipe. The figure shows that the entire trench is covered with rubble. This is quite acceptable and does not contradict anything but common sense, in terms of excessive spending.

The diagram shows that the inspection and control wells are installed through one turn, which is quite acceptable if the drainage pipe is laid in one piece, without any fittings. But still it is better to do them at every turn. This will greatly facilitate the maintenance of the drainage system over time.

An annular drainage system can perfectly "get along" with a system of surface point and linear drainage. In one trench, drains can be laid at the lower level, and sewer pipes leading from trays and storm water inlets to the well for collecting rain and melt water can be laid next to them or on top in a layer of sand. If the path of both one and the other leads to one collector catchment well, then this is generally wonderful, the number of earthworks is reduced significantly. Although, we recall that we recommended collecting these waters separately. They can be collected together in only one case - if all water from precipitation and extracted from the soil is removed (naturally or forcibly) from the site into a collective storm sewer system, gutter or reservoir.

When organizing ring drainage, a trench is first dug to the estimated depth. The width of the trench in the area of its bottom should be at least 40 cm; a certain slope is immediately given to the bottom of the trench, the control of which is most convenient to carry out with a theodolite, and in its absence, a horizontally stretched cord and a measuring rod from improvised means will help.

Washed sand is poured at the bottom with a layer of at least 10 cm, which is carefully rammed. It is obvious that it is impossible to do this in a narrow trench in a mechanized way, therefore, a manual rammer is used.

Installation of wells, tie-in couplings, adding crushed granite or gravel, laying and connecting drains is done in exactly the same way as when organizing wall drainage, so there is no point in repeating. The difference is that with ring drainage, it is better to fill the trench after crushed stone and geotextiles not with soil, but with sand. Only the upper fertile layer of soil is poured, about 10-15 cm. Then, already with the landscape equipment of the site, the places for laying drains are taken into account and trees or shrubs with a powerful root system are not planted in these places.

Video: Drainage around the house

Surface point and line drainage equipment

As in all cases, a surface drainage system can only be successfully installed if there is a project or at least a self-made plan. On this plan, it is necessary to take into account everything - from water intake points to a tank where rain and melt water will merge. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the slopes of pipelines and trays, the direction of movement along the trays.

The surface drainage system can be installed with an existing blind area, paths made of paving slabs or paving stones. It is possible that one of their parts will have to be intervened, but this still does not require complete dismantling. Consider an example of the installation of a surface drainage system using the example of polymer concrete trays and sand traps (sand traps) and sewer pipes.

To carry out the work you will need a very simple set of tools:

Shovels shovel and bayonet;
Building bubble level from 60 cm long;
Bench hammer;
Rubber hammer for laying tiles or paving stones;
Construction marking cord and a set of stakes made of wood or pieces of reinforcement;
Trowel and spatulas;
Roulette;
Construction knife;
Chisel;
Angle grinder (grinder) with discs of at least 230 mm for stone and metal;
Container for preparation of solutions.

We present the further process in the form of a table.

Image	Process description
	Given the plan or design of surface drainage, it is necessary to determine the points of water discharge, that is, those places where water collected from the surface will go into the sewer pipeline leading to the drainage well. The laying depth of this pipeline should be lower than the freezing depth of the soil, which is 60-80 cm for most populated climatic zones in Russia. It is in our interests to minimize the number of discharge points, but to ensure the required drainage capacity.
	Discharge of water into the pipeline must be done either through sand traps or through storm water inlets to ensure the filtering of debris and sand. First of all, it is necessary to provide for their connection using standard shaped elements of external sewage to the pipeline and try on these elements at the installation site.
	It is better to foresee the connection of storm water inlets located under downpipes in advance, even at the stage of arranging wall drainage, so that when snow melts during the thaw and off-season, water flowing from the roofs immediately falls into the underground pipeline and would not freeze in trays, on blind areas and paths.
	If it is not possible to install sand traps, then the sewer pipeline can be connected directly to the trays. For this, polymer concrete trays have special technological holes that allow you to connect a vertical pipeline.
	Some manufacturers have special baskets fixed in the vertical water outlet, which protect the drainage system from clogging.
	Most plastic trays, in addition to a vertical connection, can also have a side connection. But this should be done only when there is confidence in the purity of the discharged water, since it is much more difficult to clean drainage wells and catchment tanks than baskets.
	To install surface drainage elements, you first need to select the soil to the required depth and width. To do this, with an already existing lawn, the turf is cut to the required width, which is defined as the width of the installed element plus 20 cm - 10 cm on each side. It may be necessary to dismantle the curbs and extreme rows of paving slabs or paving stones.
	In depth for the installation of drainage elements, it is necessary to choose the soil by the depth of the element plus 20 cm. Of these, 10 cm for sand or crushed stone preparation, and 10 cm for a concrete base. The soil is removed, the base is cleaned and rammed, and further filling is made of crushed stone of a fraction of 5-20 mm. Then pegs are driven in and a cord is pulled, which will determine the level of the installed trays.
	Surface drainage elements are tried on at the installation site. In this case, one should take into account the direction of the water flow, which is usually indicated on the side surface of the trays.
	Holes are made in the drainage elements for connecting sewer pipes. In plastic trays, this is done with a knife, and in polymer concrete trays with a chisel and a hammer.
	When fitting parts, it may be necessary to cut off part of the tray. Plastic are easily cut with a hacksaw, and polymer concrete with a grinder. Galvanized metal gratings are cut with scissors for metal, and cast-iron gratings are cut with a grinder.
	On the last trays, end caps are installed using a special adhesive-sealant.
	To install surface drainage elements, it is best to use ready-made dry mixes of sand concrete M-300, which are in the assortment of many manufacturers. In a suitable container, a solution is prepared, which should be dense in consistency. Installation is best done from discharge points - sand traps. Concrete is laid out on the prepared base.
	Then it is leveled with a trowel and a sand trap is installed on this pillow.
	Then it is exposed along the previously stretched cord. If necessary, the tray is seated in place with a rubber mallet.
	The correctness of the installation is checked by the cord and by the level.
	Trays and sand traps are set so that when the grate is installed, its plane is 3-5 mm below the surface level. Then the water will flow freely into the trays, the gratings will not be damaged by the wheels of the car.
	The sand trap installed according to the level is immediately fixed on the sides with a concrete mixture. The so-called concrete heel is formed.
	Similarly, drainage trays are installed on a concrete base.
	They also align with both cord and level.
	After installation, the joints are covered with a special sealant, which is always offered when buying trays.
	Experienced installers can apply sealant before installing the trays, applying it to the ends even before installation.
	When installing plastic trays in concrete, they can be deformed. Therefore, it is better to install them with installed gratings, which, in order to avoid contamination, are best wrapped with plastic wrap.
	If the surface is flat and has no slopes, then it will be problematic to provide the required slope of the trays. The way out of this situation is to install a cascade of trays of the same width, but different depths.
	After installing all the elements of surface drainage, a concrete heel is formed, and then paving stones or paving slabs are installed in place if they were dismantled. The surface of the paving stones should be 3-5 mm higher than the grate of the drainage tray.
	Between the paving stones and the trays, it is imperative to make a deformation seam. Instead of the recommended rubber cords, you can use a double-folded strip of roofing material and sealant.
	After the concrete has set, after 2-3 days, backfilling of the excavated soil can be done.
	After compacting the soil, the previously removed layer of turf is laid out on top. It must be laid 5-7 cm higher than the rest of the lawn surface, as over time it will compact and settle.
	After flushing the entire surface drainage system and checking its performance, the trays, storm water inlets and sand traps are closed with gratings. It is possible to expose elements to vertical loading only in 7-10 days.

When operating a surface drainage system, it is imperative to periodically clean the storm water inlets and sand traps. If necessary, you can remove the protective grids and rinse the trays themselves with a strong jet of water. Water collected after rains or snowmelt is the most suitable for further use for watering the garden, vegetable garden or lawns. The groundwater collected by a deep drainage system may have a different chemical composition and may not always be used for the same purposes. Therefore, we once again remind and advise our readers to collect groundwater and atmospheric water separately.

Video: Installation of a drainage system

Site deep drainage equipment

We have already described in which cases deep drainage of the site is needed and found out that it is almost always needed in order to forever forget about the problems of stagnant puddles, permanent dirt or the death of various plants that cannot tolerate waterlogged soils. The complexity of deep drainage equipment is that if the site has already been landscaped, trees and shrubs have been planted, there is a well-groomed lawn, then this order will have to be violated at least partially. Therefore, we recommend to immediately organize a deep drainage system on the acquired new construction sites. As in all other cases, the project of such a drainage system must be ordered from specialists. Independent incorrect calculation and execution of the drainage system can lead to the fact that waterlogged places on the site will be adjacent to dry ones.

In areas with a pronounced relief, the drainage system can become a beautiful part of the landscape. To do this, an open channel or a network of channels is organized, through which water can freely leave the site. Rainwater from the roof can also be directed into these channels. But readers will certainly agree with the authors that the presence of a large number of channels will bring more inconvenience than benefits from their contemplation. That is why closed-type deep drainage is most often equipped. Opponents of deep drainage may argue that such systems can lead to excessive drainage of fertile soil, which will negatively affect plants. However, any fertile soils have a very good and useful property - they retain exactly as much water in their thickness as necessary, and plants growing on soils take exactly as much water from it as is necessary for their root system.

The main guiding document for the organization of the drainage system is a graphic plan of the drainage system, which indicates everything: the location of the collector and storage wells, the cross section of the drainage pipes and their depth, the cross section of the drainage trench and other useful information. An example of a drainage system plan is shown in the figure.

Consider the main stages of creating a deep drainage site.

Image	Process description
	First of all, the site is marked, in which the position of the main elements of the drainage system is transferred from the plan to the terrain. Drainage pipe routes are marked with a stretched cord, which can immediately be pulled either horizontally or with a slope, which should be in each of the sections.
	A pit is dug under the storage drainage well of the required depth. The bottom of the pit is compacted and 10 cm of sand is poured and compacted on it. The body of the well is tried on in place.
	In the direction from the well towards the beginning of the main collector pipe, a trench is dug, the bottom of which is immediately given the desired slope specified in the project, but not less than 2 cm per 1 linear meter of the pipe. The width of the trench in the bottom area is 40 m. The depth depends on the specific project.
	From the collector trench, trenches are dug for drains, which will be connected to the collector pipe. The bottom of the trenches is immediately given the desired slope. The width of the trenches in the bottom area is 40 cm. The depth is according to the project. On clay and loamy soils, the average depth of drains is 0.6-0.8 meters, and on sandy soils - 0.8-1.2 meters.
	The locations of rotary and collector inspection manholes are being prepared.
	After checking the depth and the required slopes, 10 cm of sand is poured onto the bottom of all trenches, which is then wetted and compacted manually.
	Geotextile is lined at the bottom of the trenches so that it also goes onto the side walls. Depending on the depth of the trench and the width of the geotextile fabric, it is fixed either on the walls of the trench or on top.
	The wells are installed and tried on in their places, the places where the couplings are inserted are marked. Then the wells are removed and the necessary couplings are cut into them to connect the drains, the bottoms are mounted.
	Wells are installed in their places, leveled. A layer of crushed granite or washed gravel with a fraction of 20-40 mm, 10 cm thick is poured into the trenches. The crushed stone layer is compacted, the necessary slopes are created.
	The necessary sections of drainage pipes are cut off, which are completed with plugs (if necessary). In most cases, drain-beams are made from pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, and collectors - 160 mm. Pipes are laid in trenches and connected to well couplings and fittings. Their depth and slopes are checked.
	A 20 cm layer of crushed stone or washed gravel is poured over the drains. After tamping, the crushed stone layer is covered with geotextiles previously attached to the walls of the trenches or from above.
	The drainage system is checked for operability. To do this, in various places where drains are laid, a large amount of water is poured into the trenches. Its absorption into the crushed stone layer and flow through the rotary, collector wells and getting into the main catchment well are controlled.
	A layer of sand is poured over the geotextile, at least 20 cm thick. The sand is compacted, and on top of it, the trenches are covered with fertile soil - 15-20 cm.
	Covers are put on the wells.

Even if the deep drainage of the site was done without a project, it is still necessary to draw up, on which to indicate the location of the drains and the depth of their occurrence. This will help in the future when carrying out any excavation work to leave the system intact. If the relief allows, then the catchment wells may not be arranged, and the water collected by drains is immediately sent to sewers, reservoirs or a collective storm sewer system. Any of these steps must be coordinated with the neighbors and the administration of the villages. But the well is still desirable, if only to control the GWL and its seasonal fluctuations.

The collector well for collecting groundwater can be made overflow. When the water level in such wells becomes higher than the overflow pipe, part of the water flows through the sewer pipe into another storage well. Such a system allows you to get clean water in the storage well, since all the dirt, silt and debris settles in the collector overflow well.

When well-known thinkers, called great ones, whose statements are constantly quoted and cited as examples, put their thoughts on paper, they probably did not even suspect that they were writing about deep drainage. Here are some examples:

The collective image of the thinker, which is known to most people, as Kozma Prutkov said: "Look at the root!". Great phrase talking about deep drainage! If the owner wishes to grow garden trees on his site, then he simply must know where the groundwater lies, since their excess in the root system area has a bad effect on most plants.
A very famous thinker and “generator of wisdom” Oscar Wilde also said, without knowing it, about deep drainage: “The greatest vice in a person is superficiality. Everything that happens in our life has its own deep meaning.
Stanisław Jerzy Lec said the following about depth: “A swamp sometimes gives the impression of depth.” As well as possible, this phrase fits the drainage, since without it the site may well turn into a swamp.

You can cite many more quotes from great people and connect them with drainage, but we will not distract the readers of our portal from the main idea. For the safety of houses and the comfort of their inhabitants, the creation of ideal conditions for the growth of the necessary plants, the arrangement of a cozy landscape, drainage is definitely needed.

Conclusion

It should be noted that residents of most regions of Russia are unspeakably lucky if the issue of drainage is raised. An abundance of water, especially fresh water, is much better than its lack. Residents of arid and desert regions, after reading such an article, would sigh and say: “We would have your problems!” Therefore, we simply must consider ourselves lucky that we live in a country that does not lack fresh water.

As we have already noted, you can always “negotiate” with water using the drainage system. Modern market abundance offers just a gigantic range of various components, allowing you to create a system of any complexity. But in this matter one must be very selective and careful, since the excessive complexity of any system reduces its reliability. Therefore, we again and again recommend ordering a drainage project from specialists. And the independent implementation of the drainage of the site is quite within the power of any good owner, and we hope that our article will help in some way.

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A high level of groundwater is a fairly common occurrence in suburban areas, especially those located in the lowlands. This factor has almost no effect on garden plants, which cannot be said about buildings, trees and septic tanks located on the site. The solution to the problem is the drainage of the site. It is important to know how to make drainage on the site with your own hands correctly. This is what will be discussed in this article.

Why do you need drainage on the site

The very first thing that needs to be done after buying a suburban area is its thorough study, and special attention should be paid to the height of the groundwater. There are many ways to find out this information: talk to local residents, ask the previous owners of the site, or order an analysis from a company specializing in such studies.

However, the main aspects can be determined independently. For example, if clay predominates in the soil, then drainage is an indispensable element of the site: clay is practically waterproof, and good rain can literally flood the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe site or its individual parts. In cases where the site has a slope in one direction, drainage is also needed so that water does not accumulate in one place, thereby washing away the ground.

When it becomes clear that the installation of drainage should be mandatory, then you can proceed to the selection of a suitable system. This process will depend on many nuances.

There are two main methods for diverting water from the territory:

open drainage;
closed drainage.

open drainage

Further on how to properly drain the site using an open method. Open drainage implies the presence of a network of trenches on the site, which are located along the perimeter of the flooded area. Through these trenches, water is diverted to a drainage well, where it will no longer interfere with anyone or anything. An open drainage system does not require costs and is easy to implement: anyone can make it, even if he has no experience in performing construction work.

Usually ditches are made 50-60 cm deep and with the same width. A very important condition is the presence of a constant slope towards the water intake, since the water moves along the trenches by gravity. The walls of the ditches should be cut at a 30-degree slope to make it easier for water to get into them.

As a result, water from all the grooves of the site enters the last one, which should be wider and deeper. This last section connects directly to a drainage well that drains water to a water intake. The last step in creating an open drainage is testing the system, for the implementation of which it is enough to pour a certain amount of water into the ditches. If the slope is observed, the water will evenly pass through all parts of the system, without stopping or stagnation. If this does not happen, then the dug trenches must be corrected until the problem is completely eliminated.

Decorating an open drainage system with your own hands

Of course, a site streaked with ditches is completely incapable of pleasing the eye. Consider how to properly drain the site so that the system looks harmonious. All pits need to be masked, which will not only improve the aesthetic qualities of the structure, but also add strength to it, which automatically extends the life of the drainage.

Often, crushed stone acts as a material for decorating open drainage. Large stones are laid out at the bottom of the ditches, and from above all this is covered with stones of small fractions. If desired and if funds are available, the top layer can be covered with marble chips or a waterproof material similar in properties.

How to make drainage on the site, if there is no desire to spend extra money on decorating the system, but the need for masking still remains? You can use a method called "fashin drainage". The essence of this method lies in the fact that fascines are made from dry branches, which are laid in ditches.

To create fascines, a large amount of brushwood is collected, from which it is necessary to make bundles about 25-30 cm thick, and thick branches should fit in the center of the bundle. Naturally, brushwood should not lie randomly in the fascine: the thick edges of the branches should be on one side, and the thin ones on the other.

When the fascines are ready, you can start laying them on the goats previously installed in the ditches. The goats are crossed stakes that are mounted in each ditch along the entire length of the drainage. When laying fascines on the goats, the thick ends should look up.

The first step is to dig trenches into which drains will be laid in the future.

The depth of the trenches is a variable value, which for the most part depends on the soils lying on the site:

on clay soils, the trench should have a depth of about 0.6-0.8 m;
if the main soil on the site is loam, then the depth of the trench will vary from 0.7 to 0.95 m;
the presence of sandy soil makes it necessary to dig a trench 1 meter deep.

It is also important to understand that they are not laid at the very bottom of the ditches, so their depth can be another 0.2-0.3 m more. In addition, for the quality work of the system, the pipes must lie deeper, so that the freezing soil does not affect the functionality of the drainage. In the event that the drainage system is made to protect the house from flooding, then the depth of the trenches should be at least 30 cm more than the depth of the foundation. See also: "How to make drainage of the site with your own hands - types of drainage systems, device rules".

Observance of the slope is mandatory, but in the case of pipes it is a little easier to achieve. The extreme and lowest point of the system should be a drainage well or water intake, and the choice here will depend on the preferences of the owner of the site: sometimes it is preferable to put a container at the end of the drainage and collect water there, so that later it can be used for personal purposes.

Selection of pipes for drainage

Drainage pipes are usually laid in a herringbone pattern. Two auxiliary pipes are inserted into the main line, thereby creating a drainage network that operates throughout the site.

Drainage systems used to use pipes made of ceramic or asbestos cement. To date, a much wider range of pipes is on the market, the most popular of which are plastic, which can be either solid or perforated. As a result, preference is best given to corrugated plastic pipes, which demonstrate a very long service life.

When choosing pipes and designing a drainage system, the composition of the soil must be taken into account. In the case of rocky soils, drainage is not required to filter material, and in all other cases, geotextiles will have to be used, in which drains are wrapped.

The need to use geotextiles is determined by the presence of various debris and sand in the soil, which leads to pollution and silting of the pipeline. If you do not want to wrap the pipes with filter material, you can independently purchase finished products with geotextiles.

How to properly drain

How to make drainage on the site with your own hands? First, ditches are dug, taking into account the selected dimensions. The slope along the entire length of the trench must be at least 7 cm per 1 m. A building level is used to check the slope. The bottom of the trenches is laid with a layer of sand about 10 cm thick, and the same layer of crushed stone. Having rammed the resulting pillow, you can proceed with the laying and assembly of the pipeline. The mounted pipes are wrapped with geotextiles and covered with a layer of crushed stone and sand about 20-30 cm thick. The remaining trench space can be filled with soil. The soil must be poured with a margin, as the earth will sag slightly. In more detail, all stages of the construction of drainage can be seen in the photo.

Conclusion

Self-installation of drainage is not such a difficult task, which is quite within the power of any person. Now that the question of "how to drain the site" is covered, the problem will be solved even easier. Knowing the procedure for performing the main actions will help to do such work without any problems and financial costs.

Before proceeding with landscaping and landscaping of a personal plot, it should be drained. The composition of the soil in many parts of Russia mainly includes loams and clay, so draining the soil is especially important in these latitudes! The durability of the house and the period of the appearance of the first deformations depend on the quality of work of this kind. This article will discuss how to properly drain the site.

Determine the reason why you need to drain the soil

Even novice builders can, armed with the right information and material, successfully drain the site. However, first we will find out why drainage is needed, and what consequences await the owner due to waterlogging of the soil:

Flooding of basements can lead to dampness, and, accordingly, the appearance of mold on the walls.
Due to the regular flooding of the foundation, the masonry is destroyed, and cracks appear in the walls, due to which the windows are skewed.
Waterlogged soil expands, which is why artificial ponds, pools, paths and paths built into the ground not only deform, but also completely collapse over time.
Green spaces, such as trees and flowers, will be deprived of sufficient oxygen due to excessive moisture, which will contribute to their freezing and death.

Here are just a few of the consequences of waterlogging, but in fact there are many more.

The main types of drainage systems

There are different drainage systems. However, to eliminate excess water, in any case, you need to install either a well or a common watercourse.

Closed or as it is also called deep drainage. For its construction, a network of drainage pipes is used, which are buried in the ground. From them, water is diverted into special wells. For this, PVC pipes are now used. Their diameter should be 6.3 or 11 cm. The pipes should be corrugated on the outside, and smooth on the inside. There are special holes along their entire length. Then the pipes need to be wrapped with geotextile materials or canvases made of coconut fibers. Carrying out these activities is necessary to create a filtration of sand and soil particles.

The simplest open drainage. To equip it, open ditches should be dug around the perimeter of the entire site. The depth of each channel should be about 70 cm, and its thickness should not exceed 50 cm. It is better to make the walls bevelled, with a slope of approximately 30 °. The collected water will drain into one drain, provided for several sites at once. This type of drainage is very convenient during the period of snow melting and precipitation, especially if the site is under a slope. Ditches, which are located across the slope, intercept the flowing water from above, and then direct it into a common stream running longitudinally. Then the liquid is removed outside the infield.
Backfill drainage is similar to its closed view. However, in this case, instead of pipes, a trench is simply dug, subsequently covered with gravel or small stone. The top layer of the drainage system is covered with soil.

It should be borne in mind that backfill drainage is very silted. To prevent this, an additional filter layer of geotextile should be created.

Linear way

Surface drainage can be linear and point. The line system provides more serious protection. For its installation, it is necessary to create an accurate plan for conducting all the lines. Usually they are carried out in accordance with the parameters of the perimeter of the site. The point system includes ladders for transporting water, storm water inlets and drainage systems.

These elements should be installed at the lowest points of the site, under the downpipes of the roof of the house and in front of the entrance to it.

For the installation of linear drainage, ditches should be dug with a size of 50x50 cm or 50x70 cm.

The edge from which water will be discharged must be cut at an angle of 30 °. This will improve water drainage during operation.

All ditches must be connected to a common one leading to a drainage well, which is a recessed container into which all the collected liquid flows.

At this stage, ditches for draining the soil should be covered with gravel or other material. For example, some craftsmen make fascines from coniferous or birch brushwood. To do this, the twigs are tied into bundles, 30 cm thick. After that, they are laid on crossed pegs, which are placed along the length of the dug ditch, and moss is laid on top of the bundles and on the sides. Such drainage can last more than ten years.

As for crushed limestone, they should not fill up the drainage ditch. The fact is that when wet, this type of stone cakes, turning over time into a monolithic structure through which water does not pass. Instead, it is better to fill the ditches with coarse sand.

To create aesthetically pleasing linear drainage systems, the bottom and walls of the trench should be concreted. After the base has solidified, trays are installed in the trench, which are subsequently closed with decorative grilles. Such a simple set for open drainage is sold in every hardware store. For better water flow, place the gutters at a slight slope.

In order not to clog the water collector with small debris, install a sand trap directly in front of it, which involves installing a mechanical filter.

This method, of course, is more complicated than without the use of trays, but such a system will last you much longer.

Sometimes volumetric drainage is carried out on the plots. It resembles a layer cake, consisting of sand, gravel, geotextiles and lawn grids, as well as soil. With all this, the soil remains loose. This contributes to the absorption of excess moisture, which goes into the lower layers.

Installation of a closed drainage system

In order to create a closed drainage, it is necessary to purchase special pipes designed for this. For many years, ceramics have been used here, in which holes have already been prepared to drain water. True, today they are practically not produced. Asbestos-cement pipes became an equivalent replacement for them. True, in this case, the holes must be made with your own hands at a distance of approximately 1.5 cm from each other. However, laying such a drainage system is quite expensive.

A more modern type of pipes for draining the soil, among other things, is much easier to install. This is a corrugated pipe. If the soil is sandy or loamy, then the best option would be to lay special drainage blocks. They are perforated polymer pipes wrapped with geosynthetic filler, which is laid in a polyethylene film. The pipe diameter is 5 or 11 cm, and the finished block is 15 and 30 cm, respectively. So, you will save time on self-winding pipes. If the soil is crushed stone, then the filter material is not needed, you only need polymer pipes.

We determine the tasks of geotextiles and a drainage well

Why do experts recommend using geotextiles? Everything is simple! After all, it is this material that serves as an excellent filter that traps small debris. Among other things, it also perfectly absorbs moisture. It is used to gently drain the soil. The material is especially desirable when draining soils with a large amount of moisture.

For the flow of water accumulated in the drainage system, a container or a well buried in the soil is needed. It is here that water accumulates and is evenly distributed. Moreover, this structure provides an opportunity to monitor the health of the drainage system and carry out preventive work in it. In truth, it is safer and easier to buy a plastic drainage well in a specialized store. But with a strong desire, you can make a container yourself using reinforced concrete rings.

The well should be located 0.5 m below the level of the pipes. At the top of the water collector, you will need to make a pipe to remove excess water or install a pump for this purpose.

Now your finished drainage system can be tested by the site's natural moisture reserves!

Do you have experience in the installation of the drainage system of the site? Maybe some of the tips above helped you? Or have we missed some details? Write us your comments! We look forward to collaborating!

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What is drainage

How to determine the level of groundwater

Is it necessary to make a drainage system

Types of drainage systems

Surface drainage

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Depth view of drainage

Schema Type Differences

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Annular

How to make drainage of the site with your own hands

Surface

Linear

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Deep

Is it possible to drain the area without drainage

Drainage of the site - drainage and its types

Determining the slope of the drainage system

Installation of surface drainage

How to make deep drainage of a summer cottage?

Site deep drainage scheme

Determining the depth of the drainage

Pipes for deep drainage

Installation of deep drainage

Why is site drainage needed?

When Drainage Is Necessary Anyway

Studying the site for relief, soil type and groundwater level

Types of drainage systems

Surface drainage

rain gutter prices

deep drainage

Well prices

Overview of accessories for drainage systems

Details for surface drainage

Details for deep drainage

Video: How to choose a drainage pipe

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Site drainage design

Wall drainage equipment at home

Prices for drainage systems

Video: Wall drainage at home

Ring drainage equipment at home

Video: Drainage around the house

Surface point and line drainage equipment

Video: Installation of a drainage system

Site deep drainage equipment

Conclusion

Why do you need drainage on the site

open drainage

Decorating an open drainage system with your own hands

Selection of pipes for drainage

How to properly drain

Determine the reason why you need to drain the soil

The main types of drainage systems

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Installation of a closed drainage system

We determine the tasks of geotextiles and a drainage well

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