Frozen tomatoes in the open field what to do. Frozen tomatoes in the greenhouse: what to do, how to treat

Some gardeners tend to plant tomato seedlings a week or two early. It depends on the landing time. early harvest vegetables, and it is the most desirable and valuable. But what to do if the tomatoes are caught in the cold, how to restore their vital activity?

What to do in an emergency?

According to meteorologists, the climate in the regions is changing rapidly, and therefore it can hardly be called temperate. To create for thermophilic plants comfortable conditions, shelters are being built from a dense film, new technologies are being introduced organic farming. Experienced gardeners more and more often they rely on varieties that perfectly tolerate heat, cold, and various diseases.

But tomatoes frozen from unexpected June frosts are the result of unjustified haste. The fatal limit is considered to be a decrease in air temperature minus six. But damage begins already at a mark of minus one or two degrees below zero. At this time, a thousand thousand tiny hairs on the stems and leaves accumulate tiny droplets of moisture on themselves, in the form of condensate. Plant immunity enters the activation stage, which is a response to frost stress. Thus, moisture, in the form of a protective shell, protects the internal tissues of the tomato from hypothermia.

If you find such signs, you must:

• Spill the ground around the bush with cool water, while the protective water condensate should not be washed off the plant.

• Without touching the leaves and stems, create a shadow from the morning sun. For this, arcs are installed, and the site is covered with agrofiber or film as carefully as possible.

• Slightly already warmed tomatoes should be sprayed with a growth-stimulating solution that will help the cuttings to renew themselves, and the roots to take nutrients from the soil for nutrition.

Some gardeners, in order to resume sap flow, gently pour over the plants for several days before sunrise. cold water. After such a procedure, the stems cannot be touched, water should remain on the villi.

It is impossible to unequivocally answer the question - will the tomatoes go away if they are caught in the cold. But gardeners always strive to revive tomatoes, and they often succeed.

When planted seedlings are damaged by frost, pruning is used. The method, of course, is radical, but gives the maximum good results. Seedlings are given the opportunity to survive by carrying out the following actions:

• cut with sharp secateurs upper part cutting to ground level

• feed organic fertilizer(manure, urea)

• if seedlings planted in open ground are damaged, a greenhouse is built over it.

In a few days new stepchildren will appear, here they are, with good care give a great harvest. True, a week later than expected, but the result will still please.

Which tomatoes are more susceptible to frost?

It all depends on the degree of damage, on the efforts made, the time spent, and also where the tomatoes grow - in open field, greenhouse, greenhouse. for example:

• Tomatoes planted in the ground under the open sky will be able to endure a simple cold snap without consequences, but they will not survive minus six. Above the bed, it is necessary to install something like arcs, which are then covered with two or three layers of film, bedspreads, not heavy blankets, and other rags. Until warm weather returns, you can not touch such sheltered ones. If the maximum frost limit is only minus two degrees, the seedlings are covered with any dishes of the appropriate size, cardboard boxes made from newspapers with caps, the edges of which are sprinkled with earth so that frosty air does not get to the plants.

• It is easier to save tomatoes from unpleasant frosts in greenhouses. Frames can be covered with any old rag and not removed up to the mark of plus ten degrees.

• Gardeners often complain that tomatoes grown in a greenhouse suffer greatly from frost, because the temperature in it depends on the activity of the sun. Such large room it is difficult to insulate, heat, and high walls, in close contact with frosty air, can greatly cool the entire structure. In the gaps between the foundation of the greenhouse and its walls that are not sealed, frosty night air can also pass.

Drugs that give the maximum effect

For resuscitation of frozen tomatoes, it is desirable to use means natural origin. This is Epin-Extra (1 ampoule / 5 liters of water). It is often used first. It is an anti-stress, natural adaptogen:

• plant growth regulator

• stimulating the formation of a large number of ovaries

• preventing the ovary from falling off

• protecting it during frost

• accelerating fruit ripening and improving their quality

• reducing the effect of nitrates.

Epin-Extra

Epin-Extra is not a panacea, but a rehabilitation effective remedy supporting the growth and development of culture at all its stages. Treatment should be carried out early in the morning or late in the evening, because under the influence of sunlight the main active ingredient disappears. The product should get on the stem, on the leaves from above and below. The following sprayings are carried out every ten days.

Since our water is rich in alkali, which reduces the effect of the drug, it must be diluted with citric acid, just a few crystals.

It is also used for soaking seeds for two hours before planting (4 drops of the drug per 100 g of water), as well as for spraying plants before picking seedlings (2 drops per 200 g of water).

If the tomatoes are frozen, gardeners can use Zircon. He:

• effectively activates the growth of the root system

• prevents the plant from evaporating moisture

• promotes water absorption useful substances and quick survival.

Zircon

Spray applied Zircon(1 ampoule / 10 liters of water) so that the tomatoes can easily and quickly endure adaptation in a new area, two days before planting or immediately after planting. During the appearance of flower buds, re-processing is carried out.

Cytovit

Common microfertilizer will help damaged tomatoes perfectly Cytovit. This complex provides plants with micro (Mg, S, Fe, Mn, B, ZN, Cu, Mo, Co) and macro (N, P, K) elements. They increase the endurance of plants, replenish the lack of nutrients.

The above drugs can be used in a common solution - Cytovit and Epin-Extra one ampoule per five liters of water. Cytovit (three ampoules) and Zircon (one ampule) are diluted in ten liters of water.

Ferovit

To increase the photosynthesis of tomatoes, use universal stimulator Ferovit(30 drops / 1 liter of water). After spraying seedlings with this product, the green mass of not only frozen tomatoes, but also other vegetables, acquires saturated color, their roots actively grow and become powerful, a strong stem does not stretch.

Paired with growth stimulants, damaged tomatoes need top dressing. Such a unique role can be performed by Chelated microfertilizer. Its advantages - it does not combine with the soil, does not affect it, due to which it is absorbed by crops by ninety percent. And ordinary fertilizers feed plants for only thirty.

Chelates are a form of compounds in organic matter that nourishes all living things. The composition includes elements that cannot be replaced in nature. These are cobalt, manganese, molybdenum, zinc, boron, copper, iron. The chelating agent allows metal ions to enter the plant tissue in a dissolved form, which increases the efficiency of vegetable processing at times. Chelating is not a luxury, but an essential necessity for plant life.

With each new summer season, people gain experience on how to adapt to unpleasant weather disasters, how to save frozen tomatoes. If one option did not help, and the cuttings do not show signs of life, gardeners do not despair. They try all methods of restoration, especially since in some plants, including tomatoes, the function of resuscitation is inherent in nature. They are a vegetatively propagating plant, so cuttings of dead roots are sometimes applied to frozen cuttings.

After that, the stem is placed in a container of water, where, in speed, it grows strong roots, ready for new landing into the ground.

Among other things, tomatoes need to be piled up, mulch, straw, chaff, and various covering materials that can be found on the site and will help protect against adverse weather changes are laid out around the bushes. Thus, paying a little more attention to your pets, there is a chance to grow healthy, strong, tasty tomatoes.

The ideal protection for a tomato from the effects of frost is planting seedlings when nighttime temperatures do not fall below ten degrees Celsius.

So it happens from year to year with many gardeners that they manage to freeze the seedlings! Despite the fact that, and how to protect seedlings from recurrent frosts.

And here again a flurry of questions rained down about whether it is now possible to save the frozen seedlings or is that all!

Today we will talk about emergency methods of resuscitation of frozen plants. I hope this information is useful to many...

If it so happened that the seedlings were frozen, then you should not give up. Yes! It's a pity of course: so much work and money invested! And it may not be possible to save everyone, but you need to try! Of course, for the rich, this is not a problem - he went and bought new seedlings. But not everyone has such an opportunity, and purchased seedlings can always disappoint or surprise in the future.

But frozen seedlings should not be rushed to throw away. The first rule for saving the dying, whether it be: frost, heat, lack of light, temperature changes or illness, is to spray the plants with Epin.

It is useful to spray young plants with Epin, as well as plants that have undergone stress: frost, branch breakage, invasion, disease, etc. Eliminate the cause of damage/disease if possible before spraying plants. Epin is not a medicine or a panacea, it is an effective means of rehabilitation and maintaining the health of plants at all stages of their growth and development.

The recommendation to spray the plants in the early morning or late evening is due to the fact that in sunlight the active ingredient of epin, epibrassinolide, disappears very quickly, and there will be little sense from daytime spraying.

In addition, spray only the vegetative parts of plants - branches and leaves, remembering (if possible) to moisten the lower parts of the leaves with the solution. Spraying under stressful conditions (drought, lack of light, diseases, etc.) is done every 7-10 days, until the plants are completely healed. If your pets are quite healthy, spray them three times a season.

Epin standard solution, which is suitable for spraying almost all horticultural crops: 1 ampoule (0.25 mg) per 5 liters of water.

Another nuance: the tap water that we usually use is alkaline, and alkali significantly reduces the beneficial effect of epin. Therefore, before diluting the drug in water, add a few crystals to it. citric acid. Epin is absorbed by the plant within 2-3 days, so spraying should be carried out on non-rainy windless days.

It is even better to make a magic compote from healthy garden, Ecoberina, NV - 101 and Epin. Then your plants will certainly come to life and at the same time you will get an excellent harvest! But these drugs are sold at Natural Farming Centers, if there are such in your city, then it’s good, but Epin and HB are sold in all ordinary garden stores.

Restorative functions of vegetables!

Many plants have a natural regeneration function. For example, tomatoes and peppers are let out from the stem side shoots and leaves. Therefore, you should not remove them if they were caught by frosts, of course, if the frosts were not on the ground! But just surround them with increased attention and give them time. And they will come to life! Some frozen plants after treatment with biological products were covered for a while with cardboard boxes and this helped:

Always remember that timely laid and covering material always protects our crops from adverse weather conditions. Pay more attention to your crumbs and they will grow strong and healthy!

If you need help in the development of the site and in everything related to natural farming in general, you can get Individual consultation! This will help avoid mistakes and speed up the process of restoring the land!

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But the main thing here is that at first you will be properly frightened, and then, having come to your senses, you will find correct solution(most often even by accident), and thereby enrich your gardening experience. So I want to describe one incident that took place in the country.

The children brought me with seedlings and all the accompanying clothes to the site on May 5th. I, of course, barely catching my breath, immediately set to work.

She leveled the ground, put the arcs and found that the non-woven material was left in the apartment (always, when collecting something for the dacha, you will forget it).

I had to cover the greenhouse with cellophane. The weather was warm (13° on the thermometer), quiet, in the greenhouse in three hours it was already under 18°. I put there boxes with seedlings: low, with flowers - between the beds, and high, with tomatoes - right on them. I tucked the film everywhere, fixed it, and the children took me back to the city.

Arrived a couple of days later, happy - finally I'm in my favorite garden. open greenhouse, and my seedlings are all black, lowered the leaves (baby flowers are intact). I'm in a trance. I can’t believe my eyes: well, this can’t be!

After all, there were no frosts, I followed. A neighbor came and said that there was just one frost - just one, just today, but while I was riding the bus, there was no trace of it. Although no, here they are, these traces ...

I rashly took out the boxes in the sun and let's pull the seedlings out of the glasses. What I was looking for or wanted to see, I myself do not know.

By the time I came to my senses, I had already emptied two boxes. I got even worse. She grieved, and then diluted a double dose of the stimulant (60 drops per 3 l), sprayed the remaining seedlings with them twice (after the first treatment she poured water very generously) and brought it into the greenhouse. Covered in the evening nonwoven fabric and left for the city.

In the morning I was already at the cottage again. Again she took the seedlings out into the street, again sprayed with a solution, but now she left it in the sun. I didn’t cut off the black leaves, but on the fifth day I cut them off, leaving stems 1 cm high. I didn’t do anything else with the plants, I didn’t even water them.

Nine days later, "buttons" of greenery appeared on the stems in the axils of the leaves. Oh, and then I came to life!

And then I already wanted to go collect extra seedlings from acquaintances. Mine has grown (feeded it with fermented grass and chicken manure) and almost caught up with the neighbor's (only in fruiting then lagged behind for two weeks). During the season, I sprayed the plants with the same stimulant twice more: before the first ovaries appeared and before the second brushes ripened. I watered it once every two weeks under the root - with fermented grass and just water from a hose.

In general, the growth stimulator saved me. The harvest was no worse than that of the neighbors.

I now use this remedy whenever bad weather lasts for more than four days, so that the ovary of the tomatoes does not fall off.

Dear gardeners, do not flog the fever in case of failures! Use all means, try. Don't give up! And you will have excellent harvests.

Note: utensils for seedlings

I would like to talk about containers for tomato seedlings.

I consider this an important issue. During the winter I collect in large numbers paper liter milk bags. I cut off one edge of them, rinse thoroughly, then cut the boxes along the edges with scissors to the middle: four petals are obtained. I bend them and fix them with an elastic band or thread, I fall asleep inside the earth.

I water it warm water and I sow 2-3 seeds in each bag, sprinkling them on top with a thin layer of soil (no more than 0.5 cm). I put the boxes near the battery, pressing them tightly against each other, cover with a film. Sprouts appeared - I do not remove the shelter. Loops appeared - I remove the film and transfer the boxes to the window sills. When the plants are decorated with 2-3 real leaves, I leave one of the strongest sprouts in bags (I don’t cut the weaklings, but pluck them).

Seedlings have grown to 10-15 cm - I cut off the lower leaves with sharp scissors, exposing the stems. After that, I wait 2-3 hours (so that the wounds are slightly tightened), I remove the fixing elastic bands from the boxes, bend the petals up, seal the slots with tape and fill up the ground to the height of the bare stems. And so I do until the boxes are completely filled with soil.

If during these procedures the seedlings slow down growth, then this is not so scary, it just builds up new roots. But then it will grow strong and healthy.

And now it's time to land my pets in the wild. I water them well with warm water, lightly press on the boxes, turn them over with my left hand, and the plants, together with the ground, “pop out” right into my right hand. It is very convenient to place seedlings in such boxes on the windowsills. They stand there tightly to each other, evenly - the place is saved for other crops. And it is convenient to transport: put it tightly in carton boxes- and take it!

Irina SKOLKINA Sokol, Vologda region

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Even knowing that tomatoes are characterized by very weak cold resistance, a rare gardener does not strive to plant seedlings of this crop a week or two earlier. After all, an early harvest is the most valuable and most expected, and its receipt directly depends on the timing of planting. However, the consequence of such unjustified haste is the freezing of tomatoes in the garden and even in the greenhouse. Let's see how you can reanimate frost-affected plants.

Tomatoes are frozen ... What to do?

Tomatoes "killed" by the cold

Tomato plants are seriously damaged if they fall under frosts of only -1 ... -2 degrees. At the same time, lowering the temperature to -6 degrees is fatal for crop seedlings - in this case, no resuscitation measures will save your green pets.

In the frosty air, thousands and thousands of tiny hairs stand on end on the stems and leaves of tomatoes, and small drops of moisture accumulate on each of them. This is the response of plants to cold stress, it is designed to help activate their immunity. Water, as it were, creates a kind of protective shell on the skin, which to some extent prevents the cooling of the internal tissues of tomatoes.

So, in the morning you opened the newly planted seedlings and found on it all the signs of hypothermia listed above. What can be done in such a sad situation?

First, pour the soil around the tomato bushes with cool water, trying not to wash off the droplets of water condensate that performs a protective function. Secondly, without touching the plants, shade them from the morning sun - for example, set arcs above them, over which carefully throw a dark film or agrofibre. Third, once your tomatoes have warmed up a bit, it makes sense to spray them with a solution that will help restore the roots' ability to extract water from the soil and nutrients. To prepare it for 10 liters of water, add one milliliter (that is, a whole cap) of cytovit and zircon.

How to protect tomatoes from upcoming frosts

Frost damaged tomato leaf

Of course, it is better not to initially create such cold tests for heat-loving tomatoes, because this inevitably and significantly reduces the potential yield of plants. It is easier and more logical to take care of the protection of the planted seedlings in advance if frost threatens in the weather forecast.

And in this case, your next steps will depend on where you grow tomatoes - in a greenhouse, greenhouse or on open garden.

1. In open ground, tomatoes will endure even significant temperature drops (down to -6 degrees at night, and up to +2 ... On top of the film, it is also desirable to sketch cardboard, old outerwear, blankets and other rags. Moreover, such a shelter can not be removed until heat returns to your area. If mild frosts are expected (up to -2 degrees maximum), then even caps from ordinary newspapers will reliably protect tomatoes - just do not forget to generously sprinkle their edges with soil to cut off the path of frosty air to your plants.
2. Greenhouse tomatoes are also very easy to save from sudden frosts - just throw any available rags over the frames. If a strong north wind blows during the day, then such a heater can not be removed at all. And when the temperature rises above + 10 degrees, it is recommended to open the plants for a couple - three hours a day - this will contribute to their hardening.
3. Oddly enough, tomato plants grown in greenhouse conditions suffer the most from recurrent frosts. Firstly, the positive difference between the greenhouse / greenhouse and outdoor temperatures is due to solar activity. However, it is much more difficult to heat a spacious greenhouse room than a compact greenhouse. Secondly, the high walls of the greenhouse structure are in contact with cold air, which causes it to cool even faster. And finally, thirdly, there may be gaps between the foundation and the walls of the greenhouse, thanks to which the night cold will freely penetrate into the room. Therefore, you should not think that growing tomatoes in a greenhouse relieves you of responsibility; on the contrary, try in such situations to hide them in advance under arcs and cover them with any handy materials - film, rags, etc. By the way, water containers only help if you worry about additional shelter planted seedlings.

How to protect tomato seedlings from recurrent frosts in the open field, I suggest watching a short video.

Hardened Tomatoes = Healthy Tomatoes

Hardening off tomato seedlings makes them less susceptible to cold, heat, and wind. Keep in mind that it is necessary to harden not only those plants that you plan to grow in an open garden, but also those intended for planting in a greenhouse, and even more so in a greenhouse.

Direct contact with the sun and the breeze is only beneficial for young tomato bushes. Hardening measures should be started very carefully and gradually, bringing the plants to Fresh air at first only for 2-3 hours in cloudless weather and only for 1-2 hours on windy days. Over time, it will be possible to fearlessly leave plants under open sky and for the whole day.

landed on permanent place, hardy seedlings will not only be easier to get used to new living conditions, but will also be able to endure a short matinee up to -2 degrees without any solid shelters without much damage to themselves.

If for some reason it was not possible to grow your own tomato seedlings, then when buying plants, you should try to choose specimens with well-developed, slightly wrinkled foliage, but a narrow, thick main stem and developed fibrous roots.

Plants with hanging "ears" with pale, light green stems most likely did not undergo any hardening and were not fed properly. But tall seedlings with dark green wide leaves should also be bypassed - although they fertilized it with “mineral water”, they did not harden it at all.

Of course, often the choice of a summer resident is limited and one has to be content with what market sellers offer. Then you can try to gradually strengthen the purchased seedlings by placing them for a while in an unheated greenhouse. As soon as the temperature "overboard" exceeds +10 degrees, start to slowly open the plants. It is better to start with a half-hour exposure, because you do not know in what conditions the seedlings developed before. Every day, increase the duration of the hardening procedures by an hour, while making sure that the plants do not break from strong wind and they didn't fry midday sun. After a week of such manipulations, you will have at your disposal quite viable, hardened tomatoes, ready for planting in a permanent place.

Spring, especially in last years, "pleases" gardeners with return frosts. Therefore, one should not be surprised if vegetable seedlings suddenly freeze. Of course, you should follow the weather forecast and try to avoid such cases. But no one is immune from this trouble. Here you need to be able to competently reanimate seedlings, because a lot of effort has been spent on growing them. Seedlings of most varieties of tomato varieties do not tolerate frost well, and if they are not looked after, frosts can cause significant damage to the seedling. The task of the gardener is to help frozen plants and try to bring them back to life. Of course, it is unlikely that all seedlings can be saved, but try to reanimate as much as possible more plants necessary.

Frozen tomato seedlings...
What can be done?

Tomatoes freeze at temperatures below 5ºС - the circulation of plant juices stops and tender seedlings die. True, there are varieties that are more resistant to frost, for them a temperature of 0ºС is critical. If it was not possible to keep track of the tomatoes and they froze, you should not throw out seedlings grown with difficulty or bought for your blood seedlings. Try to revive her. We will consider the methods of resuscitation in this article.

If your seedlings are very frozen, then its aerial part is unlikely to be able to recover. But the roots of seedlings are usually not exposed to frost. Therefore, you can cut all above-ground part seedlings. After that, you need to feed. Urea is ideal for this, which you just need to shed the plants well and cover them with a film. In this way, up to 90% of seedlings can be reanimated. This will not affect the yield of tomatoes, although you will get the fruits a little later than from the seedlings that grew “on schedule”. The grown seedlings should be regularly fed with humates, as well as potash fertilizer.

If the frosts only slightly “hooked” the tomato seedlings, and it did not suffer much, you can restore it with the help of top dressing. As a top dressing, it is better to use urea. 100 ml of fertilizer will be enough for 10 liters of water. 2 days after feeding, it will be necessary to treat the seedlings with a growth stimulator. Typically used as a stimulant "Epin".

Spraying seedlings
tomato "Epinom"

If the seedlings are not badly damaged by frost, it is enough to give them strength with the help of Epin. It is necessary to spray frozen seedlings with Epin either early in the morning or in the evening. It is not worth doing this during the day, since epibrassinolide, which is present in Epin and is the main active component of the product, evaporates when exposed to daylight. Therefore, the efficiency will be practically zero.

When spraying, it is necessary to process all the vegetative parts of seedlings (both leaves and twigs). If spraying is used tap water(having alkaline properties), then it greatly reduces the positive effect of Epin. It is worth throwing a few crystals of citric acid into such water to neutralize the alkali. Spraying should be carried out in dry and calm weather.