How to lay tiles on the floor: detailed instructions in the photo, video master class from preparation to grouting. Self-laying tiles on the floor Laying tiles in a large room
No matter how diverse the assortment of available finishing materials, ceramic tiles, although they belong to the venerable "veterans" construction market, not in a hurry to give up the leading positions in popularity. It occupies a very specific "niche" - this material, thanks to its unique performance characteristics, used for external and outdoor works, for residential and technical premises, for finishing floors and walls, facades and hydraulic structures, adjoining buildings and even garden design elements.
Tiles have practically no competitors in the field of interior decoration with a pronounced high level of humidity - bathrooms, bathrooms, kitchens, etc. The strength of ceramics allows it to withstand high loads, therefore, when facing floors in such rooms, preference is most often given to it, since with all its positive qualities it is also very affordable. And one more important advantage is the relative ease of installation: if you thoroughly understand the intricacies of how to lay tiles on the floor, fill your hand a little, show diligence, then you can easily cope with such work on your own.
But before taking on styling issues, it would be logical to consider the problems of its proper selection.
Going to the store for selection and purchase required material, the owner of the apartment should "arm himself" with basic knowledge about which tiles are usually on sale.
Choosing a floor tile based solely on its decorative qualities is an extremely frivolous approach. In a good salon-shop, trained sales assistants can be of great help, who will tell you which tile model is intended for which purpose. But it’s better to be able to navigate in icons and pictograms, which can tell a lot by themselves. Most common characters that may occur are shown in the table:
1 - This is a tile with pronounced frost-resistant qualities. It is suitable for the floor of the porch, veranda, balcony or loggia. It makes no sense to spend money on the purchase of such a tile for further flooring in a heated room.
2 - Foot on an inclined plane - a symbol of the anti-slip qualities of the tile. For rooms with high humidity (bathroom, kitchen) or for hallways, where moisture from the street is often brought on shoes - very important criterion. Often such an icon is accompanied by a digital indicator - this is the coefficient of friction. For the mentioned premises the best choice will slightly rough tiles with a specified coefficient of at least 0.75.
3 - A sign in the form of a diamond (sometimes found with the image of a drill) - the tile has increased characteristics of surface strength, resistance to accented impacts. Good quality for the floor in the kitchen - accidentally dropped dishes will not cause serious damage to the coating.
4 - Such a pictogram is always accompanied by a numerical value - this is the thickness ceramic tiles. For laying on the floor, a material with a thickness of about 7 - 8 mm is usually purchased.
5 - Bending strength of a single tile. This parameter is determined based on the results of bench tests, and the higher it is, the better the material (for example, for porcelain stoneware, this indicator is much higher than for ordinary tiles). However, tiles on the floor should be laid so that the bending load is minimal - tightly and evenly to the surface, without air bubbles, shells, etc. .
6 - The palm-shaped icon indicates that this ceramic tile is intended exclusively for walls. No matter how beautiful and durable it may seem, it is impossible to purchase it for laying on the floor.
7 - But the image of the footprint from the boot speaks for itself - this tile is designed specifically for the floor.
8 or 16 are indicators of the resistance of ceramic tiles to abrasive, abrasive loads. According to the international standard PE1 (EN ISO 105645.7), there are 5 wear classes:
| Wear class according to PE1 (EN ISO 105645.7) | Application area |
|---|---|
| I | Such tile fit for rooms with a minimum load, where there is never an intensive movement of people (for example, a bathroom, a bathroom). In such premises, street shoes are not worn, and they do not have close proximity to the exit to the street. |
| II | This tile is for rooms where people also wear slippers, but the traffic intensity is already somewhat higher. |
| III | The wear resistance of this class allows the use of ceramic tiles in hallways or kitchens. |
| IV | High-strength tiles for rooms and halls with heavy traffic - entrances, shops, public places, offices, etc. In the conditions of apartments or private houses, it makes no sense to apply |
| V | The highest class of abrasion resistance, applicable to coatings with extremely high intensity of movement of people and even some types of vehicles. Scope of application - stations, large supermarkets, warehouses, industrial premises, etc. |
9 - This pictogram indicates that the ceramic tile has undergone a double firing procedure. similar material usually has a glossy glazed surface, and is more suitable for laying on walls. In addition, the technology of double firing implies an increased porosity of ceramics - and this is a decrease in its mechanical strength and increased water absorption.
10 - The icon in the form of a chemical flask indicates the increased resistance of the tile surface to acids, alkalis, and other aggressive substances, including any type of household chemicals. The letter indicator of this property of the material is "AA".
11 - If you come across such an icon, then you need to be careful in choosing a tile - in one box there can be tiles of various shades.
12 – Notwhich expensive types of ceramic tiles can be produced with the inclusion of precious metals in their composition: silver (Ag), gold (Au) or even platinum (Pt).
Pictograms 13 ÷ 15 inform about the parameters of the factory packaging of ceramic tiles. So, in the example above, symbol 13 indicates that the gross weight of the box is 19.00 kilograms, symbol 14 indicates that one package is enough for 1.42 m² of floor space, and symbol 16 indicates that 24 tiles are packed in a box.
The pictograms indicated in the table under numbers from 17 to 21 will tell you about some specific properties of the material. Such ceramic tiles are designed for special operating conditions. It could be train stations. and and the airports medical institutions, industrial enterprises, hotels, sports facilities. It makes no sense to purchase such tiles for flooring in a private house or apartment.
Other points not to be overlooked:
- If the tiles are planned to be laid on the floor of a bathroom, shower room, kitchen or other room with high humidity, then a material with a minimum (not higher than 3%) water absorption coefficient is required.
- The linear dimensions (length and width) of the tile also matter. Of course, the larger the tile, the faster it can be laid. However, for rooms with a small area and complex floor shapes, tiles that are too large will not work - there will be a lot of waste. Yes, and large tiles in such little rooms will look somewhat ridiculous. In addition, we must not forget that carefully laying large tiles is much more difficult.
- If you purchase several packs of ceramic tiles, you must definitely select the goods of one batch.
This is necessary for two reasons:
- Firstly, even a completely identical tile model, but from different batches, may have slight deviations in shade. In the conditions of the store, it is quite possible that it will not even be noticeable. However, after laying such a coating on the floor and under normal lighting, such a difference can greatly spoil the intended interior appearance of the room.
Different batches may also differ in calibration - the linear dimensions of the tile
Secondly, fluctuations in terms of linear dimensions tiles. It is clear that the cutting of material in production is carried out under the control of precise electronics. But it still remains ceramic, and there may be small errors, so calibration is mandatory finished products. There must always be tiles of the same size in one batch, and the difference between different batches can even be a few millimeters. When laying such tiles on the floor, especially in rooms large area, there may be inconsistencies visible to the naked eye.
- Be sure to check the packages for broken, cracked tiles or chips on the surface. Salespeople may argue that marriage is inevitable and must be accepted. No, you don't, you pay your money for a quality product.
- It is generally accepted that you should purchase a certain reserve, for 10% more area premises. This will be spent on “cuts” and in cases of compensation for some unfortunate misunderstandings. It must be remembered that it will not always be possible to buy additional tiles later to make up for the missing quantity - this has already been mentioned when talking about batches.
By the way, if laying is planned tiles, then the reserve can even be slightly increased - up to 15%. With this technology, it is more difficult to fit the material along the walls, there is more waste and, in addition, the probability of making some mistakes, but inexperience, is much higher.
Prices for ceramic tiles
Ceramic tile
How to lay tiles on a concrete floor
The process of facing the floor with ceramic tiles can be divided into four main stages:
- Surface preparation for laying.
- Holding necessary markup, drawing up a scheme of work.
- Laying ceramic tiles on adhesive solution.
- and finishing work.
Preparing the floor surface for tiling
The requirements for the base for laying tiles, in principle, are simple - it must be strong, stable, and provide good adhesion with the adhesive composition. How is this achieved?
If we are talking about a concrete base, then first it is necessary to make a thorough revision of the old screed, on which it is planned to lay the tiles. No need to be lazy - you should tap every centimeter of the floor to make sure there are no unstable areas.
- First of all, its horizontalness is checked - if this condition is not met, then pouring a new screed simply cannot be avoided. If the evenness is satisfactory (differences are not more than 2-3 mm), then the old coating can still serve, provided, of course, it is stable.
- If, during the control inspection, places of screed peeling, concrete crumbling, deep oiling are revealed, they must be removed up to the “healthy” surface, both in width and in depth. Wide cracks and crevices need to be cut to a width of up to 10 - 15 mm.
- There should be no traces of paint, oil products, fats, remnants of the old coating on the surface - everything is scraped off to clean concrete.
- All protrusions are necessarily cut down - if you can sometimes look at a slight recess "through your fingers", since it will still be filled with glue during the masonry process, then even the smallest tubercle will make even laying simply impossible.
- After that, a thorough cleaning with dedusting of the surface is carried out. In order for the repair suction to lie well, it is necessary to prime all the places to be repaired and allow the primer to dry completely.
- A repair compound is being prepared - it can be a “classic” cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1: 3, but it will dry for a long time.
The finished and completely frozen screed is also primed twice, after which you can proceed to further work.
Prices for various types of screeds and self-leveling floors
Screeds and self-leveling floors
Floor marking for laying ceramic tiles
Ceramic tiles should become a decoration of the room, and this will be possible only if its location on the floor is planned correctly. Carelessly, obliquely laid tiles can completely complete the interior
There are many methods and methods for placing ceramic tiles on the floor - it is impossible to consider all of them on the scale of this article - this is a topic for a separate publication. But even the simplest, "classic" method requires precision and accuracy.
Starting to plan laying from the wall is very risky, since the slightest flaw will grow with each successive row, and it will be very difficult to eliminate it. Therefore, the reference lines and the first rows of tiles are usually located approximately in the center of the room.
The first reference line is usually drawn along the room. To do this, in two places, at the beginning and at the end, the distance between opposite walls is carefully measured and midpoints are applied. They are connected straight (usually done with a coated cord), and receive a longitudinal baseline.
Now you need to draw the second, perpendicular to the first, also approximately in the middle of the room. It is very important that the strictest perpendicularity be observed. In order to avoid mistakes, and this is quite possible when using a square and a ruler, you should definitely check the right angle using the formula of the famous "Egyptian triangle": 3² + 4² = 5². According to the Pythagorean theorem, this is a triangle with legs that are multiples of 3 and 4, and a hypotenuse that is a multiple of 5.
For example, we measure from the point of intersection of the leg 900 and 1200 mm. We connect the marked points with a segment, and its length should be exactly 1500 mm - no more no less.
When the lines are drawn and their perpendicularity is checked, you can think about how to place the rows of tiles and where to start laying out. We remember that the drawn reference lines are not at all a “dogma” for the beginning of masonry - it will not be difficult for them to make a parallel transfer in any direction.
For example, if the front door in a spacious room is located exactly in the center, then you can lay out the first rows of tiles in this way - along the laid reference lines. The principle is as follows - so that when entering the room, a flat area is presented to the eye, without cuts and fitting. (see pos. "a" in the figure).
But in a small room, with a shift of the exit to the edge (pos. "b"), and even, perhaps, having complex shape or stationary obstacles, the beginning of laying can be smstyle to a free "patch" - from here it will be much more convenient to work in all directions, but it will be the entrance that will turn out to be the "front door".
In any case, you should never be lazy - you should carry out the control laying of the central longitudinal and transverse rows of ceramic tiles "dry", without using mortar, but leaving the planned gap between adjacent tiles.
Do not neglect the initial "dry" laying of tiles - this will allow you to evaluate the options for its location
Such a simple procedure will allow you to visually assess the future picture, measure the distances, and finally decide on the laying scheme, that is, stop at one of the principles:
1 - in not large room, for example, in the bathroom or in the kitchen, you can take two walls from the entrance (green arrows) as the “starting line”, provided that they are exactly perpendicular. In this case, the entire visible part of the room will be lined with whole tiles, and the cut edges will be hidden under furniture or plumbing fixtures.
2 - masonry is carried out from the center in such a way as to place the maximum possible number of whole tiles on the floor, leaving narrow sections for supplementing with fragments (brown arrows). Beneficial in terms of material savings. However, for reasons of masonry quality, it is advisable to leave sections not narrower than ⅓ of the tile width near the walls.
3 - the layout looks a little more impressive with a minimum number of whole tiles in a row, but with extended fragments along the walls (blue arrows). Such a coating looks more complete, and from an operational point of view, it is more reliable than No. 2.
4 - laying diagonally - will help hide the curvature of the room. Among the shortcomings is a more complex execution, especially in terms of preliminary marking and fitting of tile fragments, more material goes to waste.
If you have decided on this, then you should immediately outline what scheme will work is being done- from the far corner to the entrance, or by dividing the space into several areas in straight stacked rows, with their subsequent filling.
“Filling” the space can also be done in different ways. So, some masters are laying in order. Others prefer the "ladder" scheme with a consistent increase in the number of rows being laid at the same time.
"Filling" the space can be performed linearly, or, as shown in the figure, stepwise
By the way, there are supporters of laying ceramic tiles on the floor "in a run" or even randomly - sometimes this is part of the design plan for decorating the room. But in the conditions of an ordinary house, they still prefer to confine themselves to a direct laying pattern, “seam to seam”.
Laying tiles on the floor
- So, we are preparing the necessary tools and materials for laying.
- For work, you will need spatulas, ordinary, from 100 to 250 mm wide, and notched, with a furrow height of 8 - 10 mm. For grouting, it’s a good idea to get an elastic rubber spatula.
- You will need a construction mixer or a drill with a nozzle for mixing tiles with an appropriate container for the same purpose.
- Always have a building level at hand.
- In some cases, it will be necessary to apply force to lay the tile in place. It is convenient to use a rubber mallet for this purpose.
- You should immediately think about how the tiles will be cut (more on this below).
- It is necessary to create a stock of calibration crosses desired thickness, plastic wedges for height alignment.
- In order not to carry dirt, you need to have a supply of clean rags, a sponge for wiping the solution from the front surface of the tile.
- Probably no one thinks about it anymore. self-manufacturing tile adhesive - it can always be purchased at the store. When choosing, you need to control the purpose of the composition - in addition to the usual, intended for majority interior spaces, there are specialized mixtures, intended for rooms with high humidity conditions, for the street, especially resistant or for so-called "complex surfaces", for the "warm floor" system, etc.
The glue is diluted by gradually adding a dry mixture to the amount of water specified in the instructions, with constant stirring with the help of a mixer or drill. The composition should turn out to be absolutely homogeneous, without lumps, of a sufficiently dense consistency - so that the ridges created by a notched trowel do not spread.
After obtaining the consistency of the composition necessary for work, it is left to “ripen” for 5 minutes, then mixed again for 2 ÷ 3 minutes - and you can start laying.
Too much mortar should not be prepared at once, especially if there is no experience in laying ceramic tiles. The term of his "life" is limited - this must be indicated in his instructions. If the glue begins to noticeably thicken during operation, then you will have to throw it away - you cannot dilute it with water again - it will lose its qualities.
- Beginning masters, apparently having heard a lot of old, irrelevant advice or having read about it somewhere, soak the tile in water before laying it on the floor. In doing so, they are committing a grave mistake.
A similar approach is possible if the tile is laid on a conventional cement-sand mortar, and even then - not in all cases. And all modern building mixtures- Adhesives for ceramic tiles, designed for application on a dry surface. Excess water will significantly reduce performance glue, and the tile will begin to “dance” and fall off over time.
Therefore, before laying the first tile, carefully read the instructions for use of the purchased tile adhesive again - everything is probably indicated there.
- Where to apply glue - on the floor, or on the tiles? There is no unanimity of opinion on this issue. Someone likes to apply on the tile - the marking lines on the floor remain intact.
On the other hand, it is more convenient to immediately smear a significant area of the floor, and then concentrate on laying the tiles evenly (of course, if you have some experience, otherwise you may not have time).
Another option is to pre-glue the floor surface with glue.
There is a third tip - to coat both here and there, but lay the tiles in such a way that the direction of the ridges made with a notched trowel on the floor and on the tile is perpendicular - this way all cavities are guaranteed to be filled, maximum adhesion is ensured.
- After smearing with glue, the tile is laid on the surface in the right place, tightly pressed against the floor, its location relative to the reference lines is controlled, as well as the horizontalness of its upper plane in the longitudinal and transverse directions.
- Work continues in the same order, with the obligatory installation of calibration crosses - they will clearly maintain the required gap between the tiles.
When fitting each tile, its horizontalness must be checked using building level. The necessary adjustments are immediately made - adding or removing mortar, inserting a small wedge, etc.
- It is necessary to ensure that there is no excess glue left in the tile gap - this space will be needed to fill the joints. So it is better to remove the glue immediately, as it will be very difficult to do later. Together so, from the front surface of the tile, immediately remove stains of the solution with a rag or sponge, preventing them from drying out.
- Distance crosses are left between the tiles until the initial setting of the mortar. Then, when the tile has already acquired immobility, the crosses must be removed - it is impossible to leave them in the seams until the glue has completely solidified, since then there will be difficulties with extraction.
Video: a visual lesson on laying tiles on the floor
- Very comfortable to work modern fixtures for quick laying out tiles - the so-called leveling systems. The kit includes stand clamps (disposable elements) and wedges (can be reused).
- After the first tile is laid on the glue, well pressed and inserted in level, two clamps are installed on each of its sides, so that they go under the tile with their heel. The thickness of the leg of the clamp will determine the size of the seam. Clamps are installed at a distance of approximately 50 mm from the corner.
Clamps installed...
Then another tile is laid. The wide heel of the clip is also under it.
... then the next tile is laid ...
A wedge is inserted and threaded to the limit into the clamp, where it will be fixed by a ribbed surface on the hooks. Very important - the wedges are always inserted from the side of the previously laid and leveled tiles.
... wedges are inserted all the way and fully fixed.
- Thus, the lower, even edge of the wedge "pulls" the surface of the next tile ideally into the plane of the already laid one. True, no one cancels control with the help of a level.
- The wedges should remain in this position until the glue has completely dried. Then they are removed with light side impacts using a rubber mallet. The design of the polymer clamps is such that they can withstand tensile stress, but immediately break off when exposed to a fracture. Below, under the tiles, remain only broken heels.
- Wedges, as already mentioned, can be used further, and broken hooks are disposed of.
Video: laying tiles with a tile leveling system
Tile cutting
Previously, it was only about laying a whole tile, but in practice there are never cases where everything is limited to this. So, now it's time to consider the problem of cutting tiles.
- Installation of fragments is recommended not immediately, but a day after the main part of the floor. During this time, the glue will already grab well, and it will be possible to accurately measure the required dimensions.
- When marking the tile poses, cutting should not be forgotten about the spacing between the seams - it should definitely be corrected for.
- There are several ways to cut ceramic tiles:
1. The most convenient way is with a tile cutter, a desktop tool that gives a smooth and accurate cut. It is enough to lay the tile with a marking line along the central ledge, draw the roller away from you with force over the surface of the tile, and then, resting the paws on the surface of the tile on both sides of the drawn line, press the lever down.
The most convenient tool is a tile cutter
With even a small experience of the master, there is practically no marriage in such cutting.
2. A manual tile cutter is a fairly convenient tool, but it already requires more dexterity from the worker.
First, the roller is drawn along the intended line of risk. Then the tile is clamped so that the tile cutter is exactly on top along the axis of the line cutting. Hand movement - and the tile should be divided into two parts.
Similarly, cutting is carried out using a conventional glass cutter, with the only difference being that the breaking is carried out on the edge of the workbench, or with the help of a line placed on the bottom of the workbench. cutting metal rod (nail or wire).
With all the advantages of manual and desktop tile cutters, they allow cutting tiles exclusively in a straight line.
3. grinder with a diamond disc - this approach is especially good when cutting tiles at an angle or creating complex shapes is required. The main difficulty here is to ensure that the tile is securely fixed when working with a grinder so that it does not fly out or crack.
Tiles can be precisely cut to size with a diamond grinder
The tile can be cut right through - when details of a complex configuration are required. If straight long sections are cut off, then you can only violate the integrity of the upper enamel layer - then it will not be difficult to break the tile along the intended line.
Particular attention to safety precautions - be sure to cover your eyes and face with a mask, so how not excluded scattering of small hot fragments of ceramics.
4. small plots tiles can be removed with pliers.
In this case, on the area to be removed, it is advisable to apply frequent grid glass cutter roller. Then, with tongs, very small fragments are carefully broken out, gradually bringing the tile to the desired size.
If necessary, any minor unevenness remaining after cutting can be removed with a block wrapped with coarse (80) sandpaper. With large teeth, they can be “corrected” with pliers. If a pronounced sharp edge remains, then it is better to process it with a round file first.
The process of laying cut fragments, in fact, is no different from what was described above.
When performing work on cutting tiles and when laying its fragments, special care should be taken. Ceramics can crack and not along the intended line, which means that there is a high probability of getting a cut hand injury when pressed. In addition, broken edges can have extremely sharp edges that can cause very deep cuts. All work should only be done with protective gloves.
Seam sealing
After the entire floor area is covered with ceramic tiles, you can proceed to grouting.
- First of all, it is necessary to check the condition of the seams again - they must be cleaned to the full depth and width.
- getting ready jointing solution - grout. She might be on cement base or be an epoxy two-component composition.
1. In domestic conditions, cement grouts are more often used (the so-called class WithG 2 according to EN 13888).
Cement grout for joints
They are sold in stores in the form of hermetically packed dry mixes, they can have different colors - there is always the opportunity to choose the color that is most suitable for the overall design. They are closed to the desired consistency most often with water. But for rooms with high humidity or for floors with a high level of load, it is still recommended to use a special latex additive to dilute the composition - the floor surface will only benefit from this.
2. AT recent times Epoxy-based grouts (class RG according to EN 13888) are rapidly gaining popularity. These are two-component compounds that are prepared immediately before the start of work on filling the joints.
The “life” of such a composition is short, so it is prepared in small portions in order to be guaranteed to work out before hardening.
Epoxy grouts are more durable, resistant to chemicals, they are much more ductile and will not crack over time. These compositions have a much wider range of shades (including bright, saturated colors), and besides, many similar grouts are sold with special effects - sparkles, fluorescent glow, etc.
The only one significant disadvantage epoxy grouts (except for a certain difficulty with the correct preparation of the working composition) - this is still a very high price, which greatly limits the scope of their use.
- The finished composition is typed on a rubber spatula or rubber grater and applied with force to the seam area, usually in the direction of 45 degrees from the seam line. Such a trajectory will provide the most complete and dense filling of the inter-seam space.
- After the joints are filled, it is necessary to immediately remove the excess mixture from the surface of the tile - later this will be much more difficult to do. Usually this is started when the grout remaining on the surface of the tile has appeared white coating- it began to dry out (usually after 20 - 30 minutes).
To do this, take a foam sponge, well washed and wrung out, and remove the remains of the fugue with it. The movements are usually the same as when grouting - 45 degrees to the seam line. At the same time, one should try not to touch the seams so as not to wash the puffer out of there. The sponge should be thoroughly rinsed as often as possible, with a constant change of water. By the way, water plays a dual role here - it washes away impurities and participates in hydration. cement composition grouting material.
After 3 — 4 hours, you can rinse the surface again with a foam sponge. Then, when the floor dries after washing, the remaining light cement coating is easy to remove by wiping the tiles with a dry, clean, soft cloth.
After that, the ceramic tile will already take on its “ceremonial” appearance, and it will be possible to say that the process of laying it is completed.
Prices for grout for seams
Grout for joints
Video: option for grouting on a tiled floor
However, if the cladding was carried out in a room with high humidity or with intense loads on the surface, then it is recommended to carry out one more simple operation - to coat the seams water repellent.
This is done very simply - the composition is abundantly applied to the seams with a thin brush. Such treatment will give the composition of the fugue water-repellent properties, which will significantly increase the service life of the ceramic coating, prevent dampness from accumulating in these places, and facilitate cleaning.
When the water repellent is absorbed and dries, you can restore the final order. It is necessary to thoroughly rinse the floor with clean water - and we can assume that the entire multi-stage process of laying tiles on the floor is over!
Laying tiles on your own is not an easy task, and therefore, many trust it to professionals. But such a solution is quite expensive, and therefore, do-it-yourself work is far from uncommon. This is what helps step by step installation tiles.
An important factor in this case is the strict observance of the technology of work. In total, the whole process can be divided into 7 stages. More specifically, laying ceramic tiles on the floor is carried out in the following sequence:
- First of all, the calculation of materials, their purchase and preparation of the tool is performed.
- Next, you need to prepare the surface, in this case, the base is leveled and primed.
- The next step is marking, which involves the rough layout of the tiles and the application of marks, in some cases, support stops.
- The next step is laying, in particular the first row.
- Further, the entire area is laid with solid tiles.
- The next step is cutting the tiles and laying them.
- And finally, the seams are grouted.
Thus, for the correct installation of tiles on the floor with your own hands, detailed instructions are simply necessary. And then we will consider in more detail each of the stages of work.
Preparation of tools and materials
In the case when laying tiles with your own hands, you will need the following tool:
- Master OK.
- Several spatulas, in particular, notched, regular and rubber.
- You should also arm yourself with several levels, small, up to 50 centimeters in size, and medium, up to 1 meter.
- The next will be a rubber mallet.
- Another essential tool becomes a grinder or, since in most cases it is simply necessary to cut the tiles. Here you can also note additional devices, such as wire cutters, sandpaper and needle files.
- And the last device will be a container for the adhesive mixture.
We figured out the tool, now you should pay attention to the materials, or rather to their calculation and purchase.
In particular, for a correct calculation it is not enough to simply measure the surface area, here important role factors such as:
- Tile size.
- The thickness of the adhesive layer.
- Tile type.
- Base material.
- The presence of obstacles.
All these factors just need to be taken into account. In addition, if it is necessary to cut tiles, you should also pay attention to the size of the segments. Because if they are more than half the size of the tile, then for one such row, you will need to purchase twice as many tiles.
Usually, when calculating, 10-15% is added to the resulting number, which for the most part is enough to cover the cost of cutting, as well as cases of marriage (damage to tiles, incorrect cutting, etc.).
Speaking of the adhesive mixture, here the calculation is carried out based on the type of tile, the type of mixture itself, the size, and the required layer thickness, which is usually indicated on the package.
For calculation required amount grout and glue, you can use the calculators on our website:
We figured out this issue, now you can go directly to the technological process.
Surface preparation for laying
The first issue is the preparation of the foundation. It is very important to ensure maximum flat surface, otherwise the ideal styling will not work. The main mistake it becomes a myth that a little more glue can hide bumps, which is not true. High-quality laying is possible only on a flat base, and nothing else.
Before laying, it is first necessary to dismantle the old coating, if any, up to the very base. The next step is to form and .
The method of leveling the floor does not play a role here. This can be either, or, the arrangement of the "warm floor" system, etc. The main factor is the full compliance with the technology of work.
Also, all sills, skirting boards and other obstacles that may interfere with laying tiles close to the wall are subject to dismantling.
In some cases, it is possible to lay tiles on the floor without dismantling the old coating (in particular, provided that it is also a tile).
Surface marking
And the next step is the marking of the floor surface, which is especially important when laying uneven tiles. It is carried out as follows:
- A straight line of the first row of tiles is marked. Since the laying is carried out starting from the far corner of the room, the markup is also accordingly.
- Next are labels for the location of the material. In cases where tiles are laid without seams with a pattern, a complete drawing of the location of the elements is necessary.
- An important factor is the laying at the entrance, in this case, the markings should be carried out in such a way that solid fragments lie at the doors; accordingly, it may be necessary to indent from the far wall.
- An important factor in the markup is the accounting of which also plays a role.
- You can also carry out a preliminary layout of the tiles on the surface, for more accurate marking.
Laying tiles diagonally The beginning of laying and filling the area with solid fragments.
After the markup is done, you can start laying ceramic tiles with your own hands. To begin with, we will directly analyze the arrangement of the first row and the further laying of solid fragments, after which we will move on to cutting and final laying. 
So, let's look at how the tiles are laid, step-by-step instruction in this case will be the best helper:
- First of all, you need to prepare the adhesive mixture. Difficulties should not arise here. We do everything in accordance with the instructions on the package. In this case, the amount of mixing should not exceed that required for a plot of 1 square meter.
- Now, armed with a notched trowel, apply a layer of glue to the floor surface. For greater reliability, you can also apply a layer on the tile itself, in this case, the grooves of the mixture on the surfaces should be perpendicular to each other.
- We put the first tile on the glue, then press it down, lowering it to required level. Next, you need to align it to the ideal horizontal position, which is checked using the building level.
- For leveling, a rubber hammer is used, with the help of which, with light taps, the tile is more tightly pressed against the surface.
- It is important to do everything quickly and accurately. After laying, it is highly undesirable to remove the tile from the surface.
- So, the first tile is laid and leveled. Now you can start laying the next ones.
- In the same way as in the first case, glue is applied, and the tile is laid on the floor. Next, alignment is carried out according to the level of the first element. You can add some glue if needed.
- After the final shrinkage of the tiles, the excess mixture is removed.
- It is important not to forget about or special, to form the same seams over the entire surface.
- It should be placed either in the corners, at the intersection, or with an indent of 2-3 centimeters from the edge of the tile.
- All gaps between the tiles should be immediately cleaned of excess adhesive, since after it dries, cleaning will be almost impossible.
- In the same way, the laying of large tiles is carried out.
- Further, the base area is completely covered with whole fragments.
On this, this phase is completed, and you can move on. Before that, it is necessary to let the glue grab and harden to such an extent that it is possible to walk on the coating. It is advisable to leave the masonry for a day, and then continue to work.
Cutting tiles and laying the remaining fragments
The next step is cutting the missing fragments of the coating. Several tools can be used to cut tiles, depending on the type and thickness of the tile. In some cases, the use of a glass cutter is also acceptable, in others it can only be handled with the help of a grinder. And for porcelain tiles you will need already.
Having chosen a tool, you must first carry out all necessary measurements and make marks on the tiles. All marks are drawn from the back. Having marked the tile, you can start cutting. Since the process is quite dusty, it is desirable to carry it out on the street.
If it is necessary to cut uneven fragments, for example, arcuate ones, a machine with a diamond wheel or a special tile cutter-nippers is used.
The cutting process itself is carried out as follows:
- The tile must be firmly fixed so that it does not stagger or vibrate when cutting.
- After that, following the marked marks, cutting is performed.
In the case of using a special tile cutter, it includes a special platform for fixing and limiters, with which you can indicate the direction of cutting.
Grouting tiles
And the last stage is grouting. It can not be carried out only in the case of seamless tiling.
To start it, you must wait until the adhesive mixture has completely dried, and then completely remove the crosses and other auxiliary materials from the surface, if any.
Before starting, we carry out a complete cleaning of the surface, which can be done with a vacuum cleaner, and proceed. The process itself is carried out as follows:
- Cover the edges of the tile with masking tape. This is done if the tile is dull and the pores are large and to avoid contamination and reduce the amount of tile cleaning work when using epoxy grouts.
- The next step is to dilute the grout, and with the help of rubber spatula we apply it.
- Movements are performed perpendicular to the seam, while with pressure, in order to completely fill the seam with the composition.
- After that, the excess solution is removed, the seam at the same time is slightly deepened and leveled.
- After complete drying, the adhesive tape is removed and the surface of the tile is wiped with a damp sponge.
How to lay tiles on the floor is a reasonable question, especially when it comes to the kitchen or bathroom. She is not afraid of moisture, temperature changes, she is easy to clean and looks great. We propose to talk about the technology of laying tiles on the floor, understand the process and understand important points. We will tell you about the rules for laying floor tiles and the stages of installation work.
What tools and materials are needed?
The mere desire and knowledge of how to lay tiles on the floor with your own hands is not enough, because you need materials and tools. Porcelain tiles will be ideal for the floor - they are of high quality, durability, aesthetics and excellent performance properties. Store catalogs will delight you with a rich selection, a variety of textures, color design, ornaments.
Porcelain stoneware, contrary to popular belief, is not radioactive, it has a homogeneous structure, without cracks, cavities. And if, in addition to everything else, you still follow the technology of how to lay tiles on the floor correctly, then it will turn into an original, durable and practical floor covering.
It is important to understand that laying tiles on the floor with your own hands will require patience, time, money and effort from you.
There are several types of tiling. Also laying tiles on the floor is carried out using the following tools and materials:
- glue;
- crosses for tiles;
- waterproofing;
- water;
- grout for seams;
- Bulgarian;
- a container in which you can prepare an adhesive solution;
- perforator;
- Master OK;
- drill;
- level.
If your task is to lay tiles on the floor with your own hands, and suddenly you are faced with the need to cut the material, then you will need a tile cutter. Using the tool allows you to get even seams and an integral surface. If the scheme for laying tiles on the floor involves cutting out a unique, specially defined shape, then a profile and a special saw will come in handy.
Now we will teach you how to lay tiles on the floor correctly, or rather, consider the stages of work.
Stage 1: surface preparation
There is a lot of information on the Internet on how to lay tiles on the floor, so doing all the work yourself is quite realistic. Any surface intended for installation of tiles must be pre-prepared, that is, leveled.
When preparing, a screed is necessarily made, and it can be done in two ways - wet or dry. Experts still insist on wet technology, since laying tiles on the floor will be much easier. In such premises as a bathroom, a toilet, the installation of floor tiles is started only after the arrangement of the waterproofing layer. When changing the old coating to a new one, it must be removed, and then the surface must be filled with cement mortar and it must be primed.
Stage 2: marking the first row and fixing the support stops
If you want to know where to start and how to lay tiles on the floor correctly, then you should start from the first row, or rather its markings. Based on this, you can fix the support limiters. First of all, mark the line of the beginning of the first row. Whatever method of laying tiles on the floor is chosen, the first row should always be located in the corner farthest from the entrance. Also, the rules for laying tiles say that only solid material should be near the door. Before laying the tiles on the floor, it is necessary to carry out rigorous calculations, taking into account the gaps between the tiles.
Stage 3 and 4: laying the first row and the whole tile
You already know how do-it-yourself laying tiles on the floor begins, now after marking you can proceed directly to laying. Apply the adhesive to the prepared surface with a notched trowel. You may also be interested in what thickness of the tile with glue will be later.
The thickness of the layer of adhesive mass must be greater than the height of the spatula teeth. Next, you yourself will have to lay the tiles on the floor surface and check the installation. A rubber mallet may be used to correct the recess. Now follows the installation of crosses in the corners, thanks to which the size of the gap between the wall and the tile is regulated. When laying floor tiles, you should not put much pressure on it.
Following the technology of laying floor tiles, you need to take a short break and wait for the first row to dry. Only after the mortar has dried, the layout of the tiles on the floor continues.
When you stop work, you need to remove all the remnants of the glue that came out outside the tile. If you neglect the advice, then the remnants of dried glue can make it impossible to lay tiles on the floor.
Stage 5: cutting tiles and laying pieces
We will not dwell on how to lay floor tiles, that is, whole layers. And we suggest focusing on a more interesting point - how to lay tiles on the floor, if you need to work with pieces. There are always places where full-size layers do not fit and have to be laid out in pieces.
You can cut tiles with your own hands with tile cutters, grinders, glass cutters. In relation to the pieces, the same laying technique is used, which is given above.
Stage 6: grouting
This could be the end, as it was possible to lay the floor tiles. But it’s impossible to call the picture aesthetic, because you need to do one more important action - to grout the seams.
Proceed to this start after the tile has completely dried. Remove restrictive crosses and carry out jointing with a special grout. There will be instructions on the package, following which you can prepare the mixture.
We focused on how to lay the floor tiles, how quickly you need to remove the adhesive residue for good reason. If the laid layer was made in compliance with the technology of laying tiles on the floor, now it remains to clean the surface and the seams. If epoxy or silicone grout is used, then stick masking tape on each sheet. A rubber spatula is used to apply the mixture.
Now we offer an independent method of grouting the joints in the following sequence:
- Apply a little grout to the seam of a small or large tile.
- Deepen the mixture into the tile joint.
- Turn the spatula and, holding it across the seam, remove the remaining mixture.
- Just like when laying tiles, we wait for the mixture to dry completely and only after that we remove the masking tape.
Now we can say that we have learned how to lay tiles on the floor, using our work and the knowledge gained for this. In conclusion, we still want to talk about how many ways there are layouts. It is possible that one of them will suit your gender.
Popular options for laying ceramic tiles
Do you already know how to lay tiles on the floor, but not yet ready to start this work? Right now the best time to select the appropriate floor tile layout to help you correct calculations the amount of materials.
- The most popular way is the "butt" or "seam to seam" laying, that is, the tiles will adjoin each other almost closely. Such flooring can be revived by using material of different colors and arranging the sheets in a checkerboard pattern.
- This type is called "out of order", that is, in each row there will be a shift along the seam. The offset method is convenient to use for tiles of various sizes. After all, the seamless option can create difficulties in fitting. individual elements and it is not always possible to connect them.
There are several ways to properly lay tiles on the floor, and we propose to consider 6 of the most popular:
- traditional or classic - even rows of squares or rectangles;
- diagonal or rhombus way is the most beautiful and difficult option, allows you to perfectly hide the curvature of the surface;
- with offset - the method resembles brickwork. The rectangular material laid out in this way looks best;
- "herringbone" or according to the principle of laying parquet. For these purposes, rectangular boards are used, with the same pattern imitating natural wood;
- modular - it is easy to perform, and the laid pattern looks impressive, suitable for beginners;
- chess involves alternating tiles of dark and light colors on the floor.
I would also like to note that laying tiles on chipboard involves the use of special adhesive and sealing mixtures, silicone sealants. There are no other features in this process, the rules for surface preparation are also relevant.
Some more nuances are laying tiles on gypsum board, which consist of applying an adhesive solution to the surface, and not to the tile. For laying tiles on a gypsum fiber layer, you can use mastic and tile adhesive. Drywall, both moisture resistant and ordinary, must be primed, applying the primer composition in two layers.
If you chose a tile without seams, then Special attention should be given to leveling the surface. If you want to create the perfect screed or screed, it's good to practice in small areas where you don't need High Quality performance, for example, in the basement, garage.
Conclusion
This material acts as an instruction "How to lay tiles on the floor." Thanks to her, you will have everything necessary knowledge and laying tiles on the floor will not give you much trouble. In addition, the repair of your apartment, house, and in particular the laying of tiles on the floor, made by yourself, will delight you for many years.
Ceramic tiles are an excellent solution for the bathroom, they are highly durable and water resistant. But is it possible to lay tiles on the floor on your own, without the involvement of specialists? - Certainly! This article will help you gain all the necessary skills.
The variety of colors, shades and patterns allow you to create your own flooring design. Laying tiles on the floor yourself is not the most difficult process, much depends on the availability of quality material, tools and surface preparation.
Technological process
The prepared adhesive solution is applied with a notched trowel to the floor, the tile is taken and pressed tightly against the surface. For high-quality grip, tap with a rubber mallet on all edges. Plastic crosses are inserted between the tiles, which create space for seams. In the process, you must use the level, regularly checking the surface of the floor.
Retreat from the wall - required condition! For simplicity, use the same plastic crosses, their thickness should be enough for a minimum gap.
If you want to lay tiles "diagonally", then be prepared for a lot of cut tiles.
Excess adhesive released after the tile has “lay down” is recommended to be removed immediately from the surface before it dries. After the location of the solid main tiles, you need to move on to working with the cut pieces. To cut them, a tile cutter is used; in its absence, you can use a hacksaw for metal.
The period of complete drying of the floor of ceramic tiles is three days. After that, it is worth moving on to the grouting procedure.
Grouting
Before grouting, it is necessary to clean the seams of dirt and dust with high quality, you can use an awl for cleaning or a vacuum cleaner, and also rinse them with a damp sponge. Used for grouting special composition, for example, for work in the bathroom or toilet, about 600 g of the mixture will be required. The grout powder is mixed with water in the proportions indicated on the package. When cooking, mix the composition several times with breaks of five minutes.
Grouting is done with a spatula and a grout mixture that fills each seam. After applying the solution, it is recommended to wipe the surface with a damp cloth to remove excess. When performing the procedure, it is necessary to ensure that the seams are slightly recessed to emphasize the geometry of the ceramic tiles. For this, a special spatula made of dense rubber is used. Until completely dry grout joints should take about 12 hours then wipe again with a damp cloth to remove dirt.
Now, you can watch a video with instructions that will help you lay the tiles with your own hands:
You may also find the overview article on . On our site, there are a large number of different articles on topics related to laying, repairing and using the floor.
Ceramic tiles are the most suitable indoor flooring.
When working with this material, skill and knowledge of its features are required.
The conversation will focus on how to lay tiles on the floor and in what ways this can be done.
The tile is demanding on the quality of the base. It should be:
- even;
- hard;
- with a rough surface (glue does not adhere to a smooth one).
Accordingly, the basis should be concrete surface, which has gone through the following stages of preparation:
- Removal, paint, grease stains, debris.
- Sealing of cracks and potholes with cement-sand mortar, removal of building material influxes with a chisel.
- Primer treatment (improves adhesion).
You can not lay tiles on top of polyethylene, or insulation. it will not catch on such a smooth base, and the lining will also “play” on the insulation, which will lead to chipping of the grout from the joints and the appearance of cracks. On such materials, a screed is first laid and only then tiles.
If the floor is uneven
The uneven floor is leveled by laying a cement-sand screed. But it happens that the deadlines are running out and the option with a screed is not suitable due to the long period of its drying. In this case, the tiles are laid directly on the bumps, using tile adhesive as a leveling mixture.
Observe the following rules:
- Apply glue marked on the package "for thick-layer styling." In most cases, these are cement-based adhesives.
- The glue is kneaded a little thicker than it should be according to the recipe on the package. Otherwise, the thick adhesive mass will “float” and the individual modules will sag.
- Laying starts from the highest point. To determine it, you can pull several pieces of a nylon cord strictly horizontally along the room and measure the level of the floor relative to them. The attachment points of the cords are directed to the horizontal plane using a water level (spirit level). Another way is to use laser level(level).
Finished cement-sand floor screed
At the highest point, the tile is laid on thin layer glue, then as you move away from it, the thickness of the glue is increased, compensating for the difference in height.
Laying tiles on an uneven floor has two drawbacks - irregularities will still appear over time, glue consumption increases several times, and it costs much more cement-sand mortar for screed.
Adhesive base: selection and application
There are four types of tile adhesives:
- cement;
- dispersive;
- epoxy;
- polyurethane.
For most tasks, cement glue is suitable - inexpensive and easy to use.
Dispersion adhesive has a high adhesive strength and is mainly used for gluing heavy tiles to walls.
Laying tiles with glue
Epoxy adhesive is characterized by such useful properties:
- significant adhesive force;
- absolute moisture resistance;
- high strength, comparable to the characteristics of the tile itself.
This makes this adhesive indispensable under the following conditions:
- there are intense loads (objects with high traffic);
- the floor often comes into contact with water or it acts on it constantly (bottom and walls of the pool).
Epoxy glue is used only when necessary, since it has significant disadvantages:
- significant cost;
- high setting speed, which requires skill to work with such compounds.
A distinctive feature of polyurethane adhesive is elasticity. It is designed for laying tiles on deformable bases or perceiving vibrations.
Cement adhesives are available in two types:
- ready-made solution: supplied in buckets;
- dry mix: in bags.
Advantages of the finished solution:
- perfect match to the recipe;
- Saving time and effort: no need to cook.
But there are also significant disadvantages:
- high price;
- delivery complexity: since the solution already contains water, it will have to carry a much larger volume than a dry mixture would take;
- the unsuitability of the unused mixture for work in the future: it is thrown away.
The advantages and disadvantages of a dry mix are opposite:
- is cheap;
- convenient in delivery;
- can be kept open for a long time.
- have to mess around with cooking;
- there is a possibility of deviation from the recipe.
When choosing glue, pay attention to the following characteristics:
- Open hours. During this time, the glue applied to the base does not harden. The average is 10 - 15 minutes.
- Composition adjustment time. During this time, you can fix the glued tiles.
It is advisable for a beginner to use glue with large values these options.
To give the adhesive layer the required thickness, after application, it is leveled with a notched trowel with a profile height of 6 to 12 mm. Numbers of spatulas recommended for the use of a certain brand of composition when laying tiles different size, glue manufacturers indicate on the packaging.
Types of tile layout
The following are used on the floor:- traditional;
- diagonal;
- scatter;
- modular;
- labyrinth;
- deck;
- herringbone.
Traditional
used square tiles, it is laid in rows parallel to one of the walls. The seams in adjacent rows match.
Layout advantages:
- ease of installation;
- minimum waste.
Traditional tiling method
Disadvantages:
- high requirements for the accuracy of dimensions and shape of modules;
- simple, unsophisticated look.
To make the coating more interesting, you can use a tile of two colors, laying it out in a checkerboard pattern.
Diagonal
Modules are laid with a rotation of 45 degrees relative to the walls. For such a layout, as for the traditional one, a square tile with precisely maintained geometric parameters is required.
Advantages:
- the most effective layout method, even when using tiles of the same color;
- the geometric imperfection of the room becomes invisible (the walls are littered or do not intersect at a right angle).
Diagonal styling
Disadvantages:
- installation complexity (precise marking of the floor is required);
- significant amount of waste.
Off the beaten path
The tile is placed like a brickwork: the modules in one row are shifted by half the length relative to the next one. It is advisable to use not a square, but a rectangular tile.
Advantages:
- The layout does not look as boring as the traditional one, but at the same time it is just as easy to implement;
- you can use tiles with large deviations of geometric parameters.
Laying option - "in a run"
Deck
The method is similar to the previous one, only the tiles of the adjacent row are shifted not by half the length, but by a small amount. used rectangular tiles with a large aspect ratio.
Herringbone
A rectangular tile is used, arranged like parquet lamellas: the second module is applied to the long side of the module, rotated relative to the walls at an angle of 45 degrees; to the long side of the second, the third is applied with the short side, etc. A tile with a pattern on the surface that imitates wood is preferred.
"Herringbone" is of two types:
- simple: as in parquet masonry, tiles of the same format are used;
- with attachment: the pattern is complemented by inserts of small tiles.
An example of a successful use of the herringbone bathroom ceramic tile installation method
Herringbone inserts with attachment may have a different color, it is appropriate to use a mosaic in this capacity.
The herringbone looks very attractive, but as in the case of a diagonal layout, a large amount of waste is generated.
Modular layout
Tiles with different sizes, but multiples of each other, are used. They can be combined as you like, which allows you to create an original pattern.
Labyrinth (braid)
Very effective layout. The square module is lined with rectangular ones, then a square module is placed on each side of the resulting square and again they are overlaid with rectangular ones, etc. When using tiles different colors it seems that wide ribbons are woven into the coating.
Tile in the form of a labyrinth
Floor marking
For diagonal laying and for the Christmas tree, before installing the tiles, markings are applied to the floor to help position the modules at an angle of 45 degrees. The lines are drawn with chalk along a stretched cord.
For other layouts, where the rows lie parallel to the walls, marking is not required.
Laying the first row of tiles
The first row along the wall opposite the entrance to the room.In this case, the whole tile will be in the most visible place, and the cut one - on the opposite side - will be less noticeable.
Glue is applied to a floor area equal in area to two or three tiles and then the cladding is glued.
Each module is set horizontally, checking the position with a level. The tool is applied twice, checking the slope in mutually perpendicular planes.
Between the modules in order to form seams of the same width, plastic crosses are laid.
Laying subsequent rows
The other rows are laid in the same way, moving towards the door. Each module not only lead to horizontal position, but also agree with others: the entire lining must lie in the same plane. Check by long level or rule.
Having pasted the next tile, remove the excess glue that has come out in the seams. After hardening, it will be more difficult to do this.
Tile cutting
At the end of each row and in the last row, the tiles usually have to be cut. A glass cutter will not take a thick and durable floor tile - a more powerful tool is required.
Apply:
- Bulgarian. Install the disc on the stone - with diamond coating. The cut is uneven, so you should cut with a margin and then trim and sand the edge (if it is not hidden by the plinth). You need to start cutting from the front side: when the disk leaves the material, chips and cracks form. Cutting is performed in one go: with each extra pass, the number of damages on the surface of the module increases.
- Manual tile cutter. It works like a glass cutter, but the diamond roller is firmly fixed and it is possible to press it against the tile with great effort with a lever.
- Electric tile cutter. Like a grinder, it cuts with a disk, but not with a segment, but with a solid one.
The cut when using an electric cutter is better, but liquid cooling is required (such discs are called wet cutters).
Grouting
With a smooth surface, you can do it very quickly: the master is armed with a rubber grater and rubs the solution into the seams within a radius of arm length with wide sweeping movements.
For embossed tiles, this method is not suitable, since it is difficult to clean it from. In such a lining, the seams are filled traditional way- using a rubber spatula.
The cost of laying tiles per 1 sq.m
If there is no self-confidence, it is worth ordering an experienced master. Prices at good specialists start from 550 - 600 rubles / m 2.Ceramic tile flooring is durable and long lasting.
But most importantly, it is not afraid of moisture and dirt is easily washed off from it.
The laying material is not easy, therefore it is recommended for a novice master to first practice in low-responsibility and poorly lit rooms.