home

Brick sauna stove with water tank. Assembly of individual elements of the furnace into a single structure

Of course, a heating stove for a bath. Modern industrial production offers many models to replace traditional wood-burning heaters: liquid fuel, gas with a metal case, pellets. Factory products are equipped with many functions and are economical in fuel consumption. Yes, they have minimal maintenance.

Options homemade devices for a steam room there are many, depending on the type of room. For example, there are so-called cold ovens, that is, those in which the outer walls do not warm up above 50 ° C. This is an important advantage, since such a design does not allow you to get burned. Such units require long continuous kindling. Heating occurs through special air ducts. They take in air from the floor and heat it up, passing through the combustion chamber. Warm and soft steam comes out from above without burning anyone. In such a bath, it is easy to regulate the level of humidity and heating temperature.

Unlike "cold" ovens, "hot" ovens quickly and efficiently heat up the steam room due to hot walls, the temperature of which can reach up to 100°C. Careless touching them threatens with burns, and the degree of air heating in this case is difficult to control. And it threatens with a heatstroke.

from brick

A solid and simple “cold” sauna stove structurally looks like this: the combustion chamber is made of refractory bricks, an ash pan is located under it. From above, to preserve the heat, cobblestones are laid out on a steel or cast-iron grate. Their mass is calculated from the ratio: 20-30 kg of stones are required for 1 m 3 of a steam room. This proportion is correct for continuously operating devices. If heating occurs periodically, that is, after warming up the room to the desired level, it is extinguished, then the amount must be increased by another 2 times. Sometimes, for better heat retention, cast iron ingots are added in a ratio of 20% to 80% stone.

The walls themselves, in addition to brick, can be made of ordinary or rubble stone. Sometimes granite or pebble is taken for construction. The weight of each element is from 1 to 5 kg. Do not try to build with silicon - it will simply burst from heating.

Only clay with sand can be used as a binding solution when laying the heater. Ordinary cement mortar will not withstand high temperatures and will not last even a year.

Clay is soaked in water for several days and mixed with sifted sand to the consistency of thick sour cream. It is preferable to take sand not river, but mountain. Its edges are uneven, unpolished and provide better grip.

A baked brick oven with stones weighs a lot, so you will have to make a foundation for it. For this, a pit with a depth of 70 cm is sufficient.

15 cm of sand and gravel fall asleep at the bottom. Then everything is poured with a layer of concrete, preferably with reinforcement. From above, the frozen foundation is covered with rolls of roofing material for waterproofing.

Let's note some points:

The corner of the bath where the stove is installed must be thermally insulated and reinforced. In addition to the risk of fire, it will experience a large temperature difference, which can lead to cracks in the walls.
The first row is laid on a ruberoid substrate without mortar, dry.
The remaining blocks are wetted with water during operation, each new row is laid with dressing (with an offset relative to the previous one).
It is necessary to ensure that the sides of the bricks facing the inside of the combustion chamber are intact, without chips or cracks. The wall here should be as smooth as possible, since any pothole provokes the destruction of the structure. At the same time, do not smear internal surfaces clay - after drying, it will begin to flake off and clog the chimney,
After completion of masonry work, the stove must be dried. To do this, either it is left for 15 days with a good flow of air, or it is heated several times in a gentle mode.

Video: masonry heater 3 × 3.5 bricks

Blueprints

metal stove

Unlike brick structures, metal units are compact and quickly warm up themselves and heat the room.

For metal stove also need a foundation. Although its mass is much less than its stone counterpart, nevertheless, a reliable foundation must be made under it.

The starting material will be steel plate or large diameter pipes. By design, such a furnace will be similar to a stone one. The only difference is the firebox. It is customary to make it two-chamber so that afterburning of fuel can occur in the second compartment. This scheme allows you to increase productivity by 20%.

The body must be fully welded - tack welding is not suitable here.

The main disadvantage of a steel furnace can be considered an extensive hot surface that is dangerous for people. However, this is easy to fix. After installation, the body is simply lined with refractory bricks, gaps are left for convection.

Video: making a metal stove for a bath in stages

Drawings and diagrams of metal furnaces

A do-it-yourself sauna stove is made when the devices industrial production something that does not suit the homeowner. The thing is that the bath is characterized by the creation of a unique microclimate, since it maintains a strictly defined indicator of humidity and temperature, depending on the type of steam room. The steam room can at the same time have the most diverse configuration, size and location of the shelves. As a result, stoves purchased in a store do not always heat it with high quality, and you have to make necessary design on one's own.

Requirements for homemade sauna stoves

Homemade bath stoves in any case must meet certain requirements. So, for example, they must be absolutely safe in terms of fire. This is especially important when iron stove for a bath, made by hand, is installed in rooms with wooden walls. At the same time, they should maintain a comfortable temperature level in your bath.

In addition, there are purely technical issues that any oven must withstand. First, by general requirement For the formation of a light and pleasant steam, it is necessary for the stones in the oven to heat up to 200-700 ° C. To do this, it is necessary to properly equip the furnace and chimney in it.

If the sauna stove is properly welded or laid out, it will maintain a temperature of 40-45 ° C at the floor and 90-100 ° C under the shelf during steaming and washing. Such heat will allow the steamer to stay in the bathhouse for a long time without any damage to his health. At the same time, the heat should be kept in the furnace for at least 3 hours from the moment the fuel supply to it ends.

Secondly, it must necessarily contain efficient system removal of carbon monoxide, smoke and other products of combustion. Otherwise, instead of getting pleasure, vapers face serious harm to health, and even death from suffocation. Ventilation system and the chimney can be both natural and working with the help of a supercharger.

Thirdly, it is necessary to choose the right place for installing the furnace. So, for example, the installation of a stove in a do-it-yourself bath is carried out exclusively on a foundation specially erected earlier. This protects the bath from fire and allows you to build for its walls and other structural elements lighter foundation structure.

A metal welded furnace also has to be installed according to special requirements, for example, in order to protect the building from fire, it is sometimes lined with bricks. In the same case, when this cannot be done, it is necessary to install it at some distance from the walls, put a thick sheet of asbestos on the floor under it.

Optimal technical parameters of homemade bath stoves

Made by hand, it must also meet some optimal technical parameters. For example, it should have a sufficiently high heat transfer power, since it heats up the air and stones for steam generation in the steam room, and in addition, the air in adjacent rooms. For the normal functioning of the bath complex, the power of the stove must be at least 28 kW.

The design of the furnace must be adapted to the room in which it will be placed. For example, there are designs with open and closed heaters, as well as entire steam generators, which require a large area for their placement.

Most of the technical parameters of stoves directly affect fuel consumption and, accordingly, the fee for it.

In addition, all homemade stoves must be designed and assembled taking into account the characteristics of the floor or foundation of both the stove, in the case of its construction, and the entire building. The fact is that if you, for example, weld a massive metal stove, then the floor of the bath may simply not withstand it, and you also need to take into account the weight of the fuel loaded into it.

Thus, if you are going to make a stove for a steam room on your own, you will first need to make calculations and find out whether your design can, in principle, be placed in a bath. Next, you need to draw up a construction scheme or, better, a project. By adhering to them, you can optimally equip your bath, ensuring its efficient heating.

Types of stoves for baths

If you are going to make such a device as with your own hands, the drawings for this should be selected taking into account the material from which you plan to make it, as well as the type of fuel with which you are going to heat the bath. The following designs are currently popular:

metal;
brick.

Depending on the type of fuel used, stoves for the bath complex can be divided into several categories:

wood and coal stoves;
stoves that use gas as fuel;
electric stoves for baths.

If you know how to weld a sauna stove with your own hands, you should also have an idea about the advantages of this design.

For example, metal furnaces are resistant even to serious mechanical damage, heat up quickly and have a long service life. At the same time, metal furnaces are most in demand cast iron products, as they do not deform under the influence of heat and keep warm for a long time. In everyday life, they are most often made from of stainless steel not less than 5 mm thick.

The disadvantage of metal furnaces is their high fire hazard, since at high temperatures the metal heats up, and if combustible material gets on it, it may ignite. Stone stoves are spared from such a disadvantage, but they are expensive, they are afraid of mechanical damage, and not every stove-maker can put them down now.

As for fuel, most of the stoves for country baths are powered by firewood. In this case, not only the firewood itself is used, but wood waste and pellets. The advantages of such systems include: low cost fuel, independence from electrical wiring and gas pipelines.

It is also worth noting such a circumstance as the unique atmosphere created during the rest. The disadvantages of wood-burning stoves include the following points: a long warm-up of the premises and the stove itself, the need to often clean the chimney, as well as the obligation of the owner of the bathhouse to always keep and replenish the supply of firewood.

In turn, they can work fully automatically, without human intervention. They start working from the moment the electricity is turned on or the gas is ignited in the furnace. As a result, the steam room is prepared for soaring in just 10-15 minutes. At the same time, these types of bath stoves need to be equipped with high-quality and efficient ventilation. In addition, experts in the bath business note the fact that gas will cost more than firewood, and electricity will be cheaper.

Making a homemade metal oven

A do-it-yourself iron bath stove is made in accordance with standard drawings, which can be found quite easily on the Internet. To begin with, you will need to select the material and tools necessary for the production of work. At the same time, you will perform almost all the operations for assembling the furnace using a welding machine and an angle grinder.

As for the material, you will need a metal sheet, preferably chrome-plated, at least 5 mm thick. He will go to the ash pan. Such a sheet can be used on the furnace frame and at the same time metal corner, 3-5 mm thick.

To make the firebox and the bottom of the water tank, you will have to prepare a thicker material - 7-10 mm. You will also need metal pipes different diameters for arranging the chimney and the piping system of the furnace. But the doors for the firebox will need to be purchased ready-made in the building and household goods store. It is best if they are made of cast iron, but if necessary, they can be welded by yourself from the remnants of a thick-walled pipeline.

You can also buy a mesh for stones, but in any case, fittings and shut-off valves, as well as grates will have to be purchased, since it will not be possible to make these elements on your own. They are inexpensive, so you can buy them quite easily.

After the material is prepared, you can begin to collect the furnace. To do this, they take a drawing and, on its basis, begin to cut blanks with the help of an angle grinder and weld them together. Wherein Special attention it is worth paying attention to the assembly of the chimney and firebox as the most critical sections of the entire structure.

Separately, it is worth noting the fact that when the question arises of how to make a stove in a bath with your own hands, they are always interested in whether metal structure cover with bricks? A possible waste of fuel is against such a decision, because the furnaces, in addition to metal, will also have to be heated with bricks. However, everything can be compensated by the beautiful appearance of your steam room and the unique microclimate formed in the room from heated bricks.

Homemade stone oven

The second popular option for heating a bath, along with metal products, is a stone stove. The fact is that a do-it-yourself stove for a sauna creates a unique Russian design in the steam room. In addition, the stone stove generates high-quality heat and air in the sauna room, and therefore will not have any foreign odors and inclusions.

Construction of a similar heating system starts with laying the foundation. Usually, a foundation pit is dug under it with a depth of 70 cm, while its bottom is lined with a mixture of sand and gravel. Then broken bricks are added, spilled with water and the reinforcement is laid after it dries, after which the foundation pit is poured with concrete.

At the same time, before pouring, a formwork is mounted that protrudes 15 cm above the ground. After the completion of the pouring procedure, it is removed, and the finished foundation is at your disposal. For the purpose of waterproofing, its sides are smeared with several layers of tar, and the free space between its walls and the ground is covered with fine gravel and coarse sand.

A do-it-yourself brick sauna stove is a rather complicated structure, therefore, if you do not have the skills of laying stoves, then you should entrust such work to an experienced stove-maker. In the same case, when your knowledge is quite enough for laying this structure, you will need to start laying the walls of the furnace. In this case, you should be guided by a pre-prepared scheme that can be found on the Internet.

When laying out the masonry in the massif of the wall, the doors for the heater and the firebox are mounted. Through them, the stove will be loaded with fuel, and it will be possible to supply water to the heater. Next, a grate is installed above the furnace compartment, having gaps of 5 mm on each side, taking into account thermal expansion. A pre-prepared tank for storing water is also installed above the heater, it can be purchased ready-made, or you can weld it yourself from thick-walled metal.

In any case, the masonry must be started from the door in order to strengthen it well in the wall array. While working, constantly check the evenness of the masonry using a level and plumb line. The point is that in order to create solid construction the masonry must be perfectly even, and the vertical seam between the bricks must be overlapped with the bricks of the next row.

There are several elements of stone ovens that must be completed. So this is a chamber for incandescent stones, a chimney, as well as a compartment for storing firewood or a firebox. Each of the elements of the furnace has its own nuances in the calculation. So, for example, between the boiler and the furnace walls in without fail leave a gap for the rapid passage of hot gases and heating water. Also, a gap of thirteen centimeters should be between the roof sheathing and the pipe in order to avoid a fire.

Particular attention will need to be paid to the arrangement of the chimney, since in the event that it is arranged incorrectly, it may remain in the bathhouse carbon monoxide. As a result, bathers can get poisoned or even die while taking bath procedures.

The laying out of the furnace is completed finishing work. To do this, you can plaster it, or you can leave the wall as it is, in natural form by simply covering the brick with heat-resistant varnish. As a result you will get original design the interior of your steam room.

Despite the fact that the brick oven warms up longer, it is able to provide more uniform heating of the steam room and the absence of "cold zones". Experienced bathers claim that it is comfortable in such a room even at high temperatures.

Brick ovens are quite complex devices, and their laying requires special skills. You can make it with your own hands, but only with strict adherence to the laying scheme (ordering) and knowledge of certain subtleties.

Is a foundation needed?

Such a design will have significant weight, so a solid foundation must be built before installing it. Some experts argue that if the building is built on a solid foundation, its separate erection for the furnace is not required. However, in swampy areas or in northern regions, where, due to temperature changes, even carefully compacted soil will “play”, it is better to provide for a heater separate foundation.

cut bearing beams and logs for its construction, rafters and floor beams for the chimney outlet are undesirable, so it is better to choose a place for the stove even before the construction of the building begins.

Important! Such a foundation should not be tied to the main one, since due to the large temperature difference during heating, the expansion coefficient will be too large. The distance between the main and furnace foundations should be at least half a meter.

Foundation for sauna stove

Construction of the foundation for the furnace

Pit depth determined based on the properties of the soil: at high density 20-50 cm is enough, in loose soils it deepens by 50-100 cm. Its width should be a brick more than the base of the furnace. Before starting laying, sand is poured onto the bottom, which is carefully spilled with water for compaction, then crushed stone or broken bricks are laid and tightly rammed.

Important! The cement-sand mortar finally hardens and gains strength for at least a week, so you should not build a heavy furnace until it dries completely.

The surface of the foundation should not reach the level of the floor by a height of two bricks. 2 layers are placed on the finished base waterproofing: roofing felt impregnated with tar mastic or roofing material treated with bituminous solution. The gaps between the foundation and the floor are filled with sand and rammed.

The foundation can also be made of solid brick or buta (large building stone irregular shape), which are laid out on the filled cement mortar base. penultimate row brick foundation at the same time it is also covered with a layer of waterproofing.

Foundation laying

Beginning of masonry

What is ordering?

Order called detailed diagram masonry, indicating the order in which the bricks are placed in each row. For work, you should choose the order of the furnace, corresponding to the size of the steam room. For example, if the heater will be located above the firebox, to ensure their maximum heating, the firebox is made at least 0.5 m. With a steam room volume of up to 12 square meters. m and a water tank of 40 l, the size of the heater with dry steam will be 0.77 × 0.5 m. The height of the firebox should be about 0.5 m.

In the absence of proper experience, it is better not to change the scheme. If the room is non-standard, and still some changes are required, it is better to show the adjusted order to an experienced specialist.

The masonry scheme in any drawings always starts from the zero row. It is necessary to bring the foundation to the floor level. Determine Height future design easy: in the diagram, each division is 10 cm and is equal to the average brick height.

The two figures below show an example of a brick oven with a water tank and its arrangement. The diagram shows that the bricks are laid in different ways: with a spoon (sideways) or a bed (wide part) down.

Stove with tank

Ordering the heater with a tank located at the top

Sand-clay mortar

Cement does not tolerate high temperatures, so it is not used for the furnace. Masonry is carried out using a solution of clay, mined at a sufficient depth without impurities of earth and other foreign inclusions, and sand.

Beginning of masonry

Before starting work, the clay should stand in water for several days and soften. Before combining with sand, it is thoroughly mixed with water to the consistency of thick thick sour cream. The remaining lumps can be broken with a construction mixer or a drill with a special nozzle.

So that pebbles and small stones do not fall into narrow seams, the sand is carefully sieved. For laying refractory bricks, clay is mixed with sand in proportion 1:2. To prevent the solution from drying out, the batch is prepared in small portions. The solution should be slightly rough, as elastic as possible and lie down without breaks.

But the fat content of clay is different, and the fatter it is, the more sand should be in the solution. That is why experienced stove-makers check the viscosity by shaking it with a stick or trowel.

The normal thickness of the layer remaining after shaking is 2 mm. If it is less, clay is added. If the solution resembles plasticine in consistency, and after shaking a solution of more than 3 mm remains, more sand should be added to the mixture.

Brick selection

If it is planned to fire with coal or gas, high-quality refractory bricks with frost resistance up to 25 cycles are used for work. For a wood-burning stove, it is better to use its refractory (Gzhel type) variety. Hollow and silicate species are not used, as they quickly collapse under the influence of high temperatures.

Sometimes, in order to save money, only a firebox is laid out with refractory (chamotte) bricks, and the rest of the furnace is reported with ordinary silicate. But, since their coefficient of thermal expansion is different, they should not be combined in a harness.

You can check the quality of a brick by simply tapping it with any hard object. In the absence of marriage, the sound will not be deaf, but sonorous, “metallic”. Do not use products with visible cracks, foreign inclusions and excessively porous. High-quality fireclay brick has a rich yellowish (sandy) hue, unburned - pale and dull color.

fireclay brick

Furnace masonry

Before laying, to improve adhesion and prevent dehydration of the mortar, the brick is soaked in water for several minutes until bubbles are released. Fireclay bricks can only be briefly immersed in water to remove dust.

The first row of bricks should be laid dry on the foundation without the use of a sand-clay mixture. During subsequent laying, the thickness of the mortar layer should be 3-6 mm. The solution is smeared with the layer and the bonding part of the brick. In the chosen place, it should be slightly moved, and then, tapping with a trowel, press it firmly.

Bricklaying

To strengthen the structure, the brick is laid out offset next row by 30-50% and joint overlap. When working, you will definitely need halves and quarters. To prevent crack formation, cutting it is better to produce with the help of a grinder equipped with a diamond disc.

Laying halves and parts of bricks

In places of contact with bricks, the doors are insulated with asbestos, 4 strong wires or strips of galvanized sheet are screwed to it with the help of bolts and washers, which will be laid in the seams of the masonry. Grooves are cut into the bricks to achieve a density according to the size of the wire.

Door installation

To ensure the best warm-up, bath stones placed on steel or cast iron grate. The fewer of them, the more dry steam will be in the room. In the Russian bath, the weight of the stones is at least 50-60, in the sauna - 30 kg.

in order to ideally match the bricks to size, each row is first placed dry without mortar, the excess length is carefully cut, the bricks are numbered, and then assembled in a row already on the mortar;
an oven laid out unevenly will not last long, so even the slightest deviation should not be allowed: after laying each row, it is better to align the horizontal and vertical with a level; the accuracy of the corners is additionally determined using plumb lines or a corner;
so that the grate and doors last as long as possible, it is better to choose not steel, but more refractory cast iron;
in wood stove the grate and the door are located on the same level; when heating with coal, the grate should be 20 cm below the firebox;
when laying the grate, gaps must be left for thermal expansion; for this, if necessary, the brick is cut to the desired size;

Installation of the grate

A small ventilation slot should be provided above the door, which will protect it from overheating or cut bricks in this place with a wedge;
for better airflow and complete combustion fuel grates are laid only along the blower channel;
halves and quarters are best used in top rows;
so that the clay does not crack over time, the furnace can be reinforced with clay with a steel mesh; the fastening wire for it is already provided in the masonry.

Construction of pipes and chimney

Iron chimneys have a serious drawback: when temperatures change, condensation forms on them, which “attracts” soot, so it is better to build them from bricks as well.

Important! Only whole bricks are laid in the chimney. Due to the risk of their falling out, the use of halves and cracked parts is unacceptable. The wall of the chimney must be perfectly flat. Otherwise, lumps of soot will accumulate in the corners, and the mine will quickly become clogged. Along the entire route of the smoke, it is desirable to round off the protrusions.

When installing a chimney, several rules should be observed:
hail call the system of passages connecting the chamber with fuel and the chimney; the size of its lower part depends on the width of the firebox and averages 3/4 of a brick; its cross-sectional area should be about 60-65% of total area chimney;
all smoke passages should be immediately cleaned and the solution residues completely removed;
it is unacceptable to narrow the chimney channel - it must be the same along its entire length; in addition, its cross section cannot be less than the hail section, and its total length from the edge of the pipe to the grate is at least 5 m;

Chimney masonry

When laying a chimney and firebox, it is better to place bricks with the most burnt side to the fire and smoke;
with too short chimney the smoke will not have time to cool, and the heat will simply fly into the chimney;
to protect against fire at the point of passage through the ceiling, the pipe is additionally lined with bricks and wrapped in heat-resistant material;

Finishing the junction of the pipe to the ceiling

The height of the pipe after the roof ridge must be at least 0.5 m;
so that damage can be easily determined, the pipe is whitened lime mortar: in this case, the places of smoke leakage are easy to determine by traces of soot.

Trial kindling of the furnace

It is believed that a stove ideally dried before the first kindling will last longer, so it is better to leave it for a couple of weeks with the doors open until completely dry. If there is no rain, the pipe valve is also left open. The room itself should also be ventilated these days.

Trial kindling is carried out a small amount(about 500 g) of paper. This is done in order to determine the presence of draft and remove residual moisture from the furnace. The blower should be fully open at this point. After that, the oven is left for another day.

Advice. If the street is damp, the first time the fire may flare up badly. In this case, in order to "push" the air up, you can burn a newspaper rolled into a tube in the upper cleaning door or view.

Subsequent kindling with chips and a small amount of firewood should be carried out carefully. The maximum amount of fuel can be loaded only after several kindlings. A perfectly folded oven does not smoke and heats up evenly. You can determine the degree of warming up by touching your hand to different parts its surface. The brick oven should also cool evenly.

The density of the masonry and the absence of cracks are determined by burning materials that give a lot of smoke in the smoke channel. If cracks are found through which smoke will pass, they are covered with a solution.

Smoke movement pattern

1.
2.
3.

Metal ovens baths are profitable and convenient, but, as a rule, experienced stove-makers recommend making them out of brick. Only in such steam rooms the atmosphere is comfortable, the warmth is pleasant, it is easy to breathe, and the steam, although saturated, does not burn if the brick oven for the bath is done correctly.

brick heating furnaces for summer cottages and baths radiate soft warmth. They are perfect choice for those people who visit the steam room quite often. As for design brick structures, then they can look great, as evidenced by the photo on the site.

Types of brick ovens for a bath

There are four ways to equip a brick sauna stove:

"in white";
"in black";
"in gray";
"with stove"

White ovens do not pollute the premises, but it takes a long time to warm them up - up to 12 hours, since the stones in them are heated from the overlapping metal plate. For the same reason, they retain heat for a long time.

The stove for a brick bath, which is heated "in a black way", is made without a chimney. It was these design solutions that were used by the villagers, since it is believed that in such baths the steam is of high quality, but it is necessary to wait until the fuel burns out completely.

The “gray” stoves intended for the bath are made with a chimney - they are more economical, since the room warms up quickly, but since soot is deposited on the stones in them, it is necessary to wait until the firewood burns out.

Brick is done like this: the tank and stones are placed on two cast iron slabs, not completely closed in order to quickly heat the room. The tank is covered with a brick casing on three sides to ensure high temperature heating water, while the container is placed directly above the firebox, and stones are placed above the chimney (read also: "").

Brick for arranging the furnace

If the cost of building a furnace for bath room limited, the most ordinary brick will suffice, and of medium quality. But it should be borne in mind that its dimensions do not always correspond to the standard, which is 25x12x65 millimeters, so the seams of the square are not always obtained up to 10 millimeters. Such discrepancies are allowed during the construction of a house, but are unacceptable when creating a stove for a bath. To solve the problem, you should slightly shorten the length of the middle brick, which makes up the side of the square, where three bricks are laid one after the other, so that the do-it-yourself brick sauna stove is laid out correctly. As a result, the parameters of the furnace will decrease and amount to 74x74 centimeters, but the width of the seams will not exceed 5 millimeters.

Do-it-yourself brick bath oven: project and scheme

A solid brick oven can be laid out with your own hands. This will require a brick sauna stove project. In addition, elementary masonry skills are needed, and up to a centimeter, a diagram with the presented order should be followed. The work is done step by step. See also: "".

Step 1. Creating the base

First of all, it is necessary to perform waterproofing reinforced concrete foundation thanks to which even in the summer heat it will remain cold. The base for the furnace is made durable. The foundation must exceed the dimensions of the unit by 10 centimeters. At the bottom, a free space is left, which has a small opening in the front, it is called the under-furnace and serves to store various inventory. It is covered from above concrete beams or brick vault with bars of wood or steel. Flooring is built on top.

To perform the work, it is necessary to have several pieces of roofing material in size equal to the area of bricks laid on top of the reinforced concrete base. The first two of them will be used to separate the concrete part of the prepared foundation from the initial brick row, and the rest are laid between the furnace array and the intermediate brick rows.

Then they start cutting bricks for laying out a wall of 5 rows. Its presence will protect the lining (if it is planned to be used) indoors from fire. Used to make a solution cement-sand mixture.

In order to perform the first laying accurately, hang the plumb line in this way: sharp end should be above the first row.

Step 2: Preparing Clay and Sand

At this stage, when building brick ovens for a bath, clay should be prepared, since only the first row is laid dry. Cement is not used in this case, since it does not tolerate sufficiently high temperatures.

It is possible to build a solid stove for a bath only using clay, which is mined at a depth of 0.5 meters. It is well cleaned of impurities and pre-soaked for several days before use. For this purpose, a special ditch is dug near the construction site.

You will also need to prepare sand for the construction of the furnace - it is cleaned of various debris and thoroughly sieved, otherwise small particles of pebbles may get into the narrow seams.

The clay is kneaded with a solid object, then water is added and mixed with a puncher with a mixer. The prepared solution should resemble thick sour cream in consistency, only after that, purified sand is added to it, slightly sprinkled with water.

The quality of the mixture is checked with a clean dry stick, it is dipped and removed:

if a 2 mm layer remains on it, then the solution can be applied;
with a layer thickness of less than 1 millimeter, more clay should be added;
if the layer size is more than 3 millimeters, more sand is required.

The solution should not be prepared in advance, as it quickly loses its properties. It is better to mix it in small portions.

Step 3. Start laying the sauna stove

After the tools are prepared, they begin laying. When a brick oven is made for a bath, the order must be pre-printed. You will also need a square, pliers, an emery wheel and a scoop with a broom.

The structural solution of the furnace assumes that the first cleaning door is located in the initial row of masonry, for which its lower fasteners are embedded under the bricks. For fastening, a galvanized wire of 3 mm diameter is used - it bends better if it is burned a little. So that in the future the twisted wire does not become an obstacle when laying bricks, grooves are pre-cut into them.

For cleaning doors that exceed the thickness of the bricks, rectangular cutouts are made in them. They should be 3-5 millimeters more than the height of the protruding part of the doors. At the end of the work, the cracks are filled with clay mortar. See also: "".

Step 4 Installing the Water Tank

When a brick oven for a bath is built with your own hands, the scheme for its implementation must be fully implemented. At this stage, after fitting the bricks to the wire and laying a new row, they proceed to the installation of a water tank, if this is planned by the design decision. A high-quality container can be welded on your own by studying. The main point is correct installation tank.

Step 5. Mounting the grate

In the event that two bricks in the blower, laid on edge, do not reach top point fourth row, this means that the material manufacturers did not meet the parameters of their products. Using a grinder, two plates are cut out of a new brick so that, together with the mortar, they form flat surface under the grate. The main thing is that it does not rest against the wall of the firebox. Otherwise, the grate may expand under the influence of high temperature and slightly push the bricks apart. If suddenly it rests, an adjustment will be required.

Step 6: Fitting the Bricks in the Fifth Row

If a brick sauna stove is being built, the order should always be at hand. So, when the scheme provides for the installation of a water tank, there may be new problem. The fact is that an almost imperceptible mismatch of bricks with standard sizes can lead to the fact that two bricks that overlap smoke channel ovens at the back wall, will leave wide gaps between them. Covering them with clay does not make sense, because it will fall out anyway.

Solve this problem in the following way: these bricks are shifted towards the blower by 3 centimeters, making between them minimum distance, and instead of the third brick, two bars are laid. Their width should be such that the gap between the wood products is invisible. But the left bar should be moved forward by 1.5 centimeters.

Having completed this work, proceed to the double winding oven door asbestos cord, like a tank, in places where it comes into contact with bricks. They do this manipulation for the purpose of reinsurance - it often happens that they start to heat the stove without pouring water into the container.

Step 7. Fixing the firebox door

To fix the furnace door, use galvanized wire, even 2 mm will do. For each hole you need to twist three pieces. Otherwise, the method of sealing and fitting is similar to the actions performed when attaching cleaning doors. Twisted 6 wires are more rigid, but ordinary pliers will help to cope with them.

Step 8. Bricklaying from the 6th to the 8th rows

At this stage, the same problem may arise as when laying the fifth row - the brick used does not correspond to standard sizes. When drawing up drawings, designers expect that quality material will be used.

Accordingly, when a brick bath oven is being built, the order is based on the fact that the bricks have standard size. An invisible marriage leads to the appearance of a gap, but it is useless to close it with clay, it is better to use bars. See also: "".

After completing the 9th row, a slab is installed on the basis that its edges will be on the bricks at a distance of 2 - 2.5 centimeters. Then proceed to the arrangement of the chimney (read also: "").

Brick oven for a bath: do-it-yourself video instruction for ordering:

Humidity and air temperature, comfort and benefits for the body depend on the stove in the bath. The sauna stove must be equipped with a tank for heating water, a chimney and a heater pocket for stones. If you have a great desire to fold the sauna stove with your own hands, and not hire specialists, be sure to read this article several times, you can even print it on a piece of paper and use it directly as a cheat sheet. At the same time, you will save a lot and get invaluable experience, which in the future you will fold similar structures for money. An important role is played by the external decoration, because the bath is a place of rest, both physical and moral, and the appearance of the stove plays an important role in this! After exterior finish the stove in your bath should become its “highlight”, an exclusive decoration that is just nice to look at, like a picture.

The sauna stove is located either with a furnace door to the adjacent room, or directly to the steam room, where the firewood is laid. Naturally, it is better that firewood be laid from the next room, if dimensions allow you - do just that.

Water tanks are mounted either behind the furnace body on supports (floor or wall mount), or fasten it directly above the firebox of the furnace. At the same time, a stationary floor tank mount is safer than a wall mount.

Calculation of the tank volume for a sauna stove

The volume of the water tank is calculated by taking from seven to ten liters of water per person with a temperature of at least fifty degrees. So, if you plan to visit a pair of 3-4 people at the same time, you should choose a tank with a volume of at least 40 liters.

How to calculate the volume of the steam room and the firebox of the furnace?

It is not enough to measure the dimensions of the room. It is also necessary to take into account the material of the surfaces. If the room has windows, glass door, surfaces made of tiles, bricks, concrete, their area should be measured. For each square meter of such surfaces, add one and a half cubic meters to the volume of the room, which will be taken into account when choosing the size of the furnace. The minimum power of the sauna stove is 8-10 kW.

Furnace Requirements

The sauna stove must be safe (both in terms of fires and for human health - do not cause burns if accidentally touched and exclude smoke from entering the room), temperature regime must be regulated, and the dimensions correspond to the volume of the room.

Metal stove-heater, is it suitable for a bath?

This furnace design is the simplest. For work, you need sheets of steel with a thickness of at least 5 mm, welding machine and Bulgarian (or cutting torch), pipes for supplying and discharging water, refractory bricks, stove clay mortar, stones, chimney pipes, faucet, stove doors with latches and hinges, metallic profile for mounting the stove support.

The design itself consists of a water tank with pipes connected to it and a tap. The tank is heated from the rear wall of the furnace, inner space which, in turn, is zonally distributed into a firebox and a heater open type. Flue gases are disposed of through a chimney that exits the furnace through the heater and sauna walls.

First of all, it is necessary to cut the bottom out of the steel sheets and side walls future stove and connect them by welding. We weld the corners inside the furnace - they will support a sheet of metal on which we will lay the stones.

On the front wall we cut a rectangular hole for the door, and from the cut out rectangle we make a door. Along the perimeter, you can scald it with strips of steel for a greater fit. In the lower part of the door or the front wall of the firebox, we drill several holes for air to enter the furnace. By welding we fix the door hinges and the hinge under the valve.

To make a chimney, we will prepare a pipe and make a hole in a sheet of metal on which there will be a heater. We weld the pipe to the steel sheet.

We proceed to the installation of the water tank. It consists of three walls and a bottom, hermetically welded together and back wall ovens. We weld the inlet and outlet pipes for water to one of the side walls of the tank. Then we weld the tap at the bottom of the tank. We install the entire structure on a frame made of steel profiles or on brick base 20-30 cm high. We cover the metal parts of the furnace with refractory paint. On top we lay out stones (soapstone, porphyrite, basalt, etc.) ranging in size from 5 to 12 cm. We mount the chimney and chimney, pour water into the tank, cover it with a lid and ignite finished oven, checking the design for draft and the absence of smoke in the room.

To modernize a potbelly stove for a bath, you can equip it with an ash chamber with a grate and an ash collection box. This will greatly simplify the cleaning of the stove, and the blower door will help to better regulate the draft, and, accordingly, the temperature and speed of fuel combustion. For the same purpose (controlling the heating temperature of the furnace), as well as to reduce heat loss through the chimney, it is equipped with a valve. It can be of the slide type or any other.

Stove for a bath from a pipe or an old cylinder

The difference between this design and the previous one is that the water tank is located directly above the firebox. For work you will need: a pipe for the furnace and tank (wall thickness 1 cm, diameter 50 cm, height 150 cm); pipe for the heater (the wall thickness is the same, and the diameter is 35 cm); mortise crane; metal fittings; door hinges; steel sheets with a thickness similar to pipes; tools for welding, metal cutting.

We divide the pipe of a larger diameter in two, using a grinder. From one part (length 60 cm) we will mount a water tank, from the second (90 cm) we will design heater for a bath.
We make markings on a sheet of steel to cut out a circle equal in diameter to the pipe - the furnace body. To do this, it is convenient to use a can of paint or a marker. This circle will serve as the bottom of the structure. Hermetically weld it to the pipe.
We immediately make the legs of the structure. To do this, we strengthen the bottom of the stove for a bath metal frame from profiles. Frame height 10-15 cm.
After the stove stands firmly on its legs, draw a 25x7 cm rectangle on the body. This piece of metal will be the blower door. We cut it out with a grinder, equip it with hinges, a handle bracket and a latch.
We make a grate. Its task is to pass air from the blower into the combustion zone, retain fuel and not prevent ash and ash from entering the lower chamber of the furnace. Such a lattice can be made from pieces of reinforcement or a sheet of metal with holes cut into it. The grate must be fixed by welding in the inner part of the pipe at a height of 12-15 cm from the bottom.
Above the grate there will be a firebox. We cut out the door for it with a size of 25x30 cm, departing from the level of the grate by about 20 cm. We install the door in the same way as a blower.
We will build a heater from reinforcement. Bending it in different directions, we give the reinforcement bars the shape of a basket, fasten them together with plastic wire. Here we will lay stones for the furnace. "Basket" set to upper part pipes. Here we cut through the door of any shape and again equip it with hinges, a valve.
Next up is the water tank. The tank body is a pipe, 60 cm long. For this pipe, we cut out the bottom, in which, in turn, we cut a hole and pass the chimney pipe through this hole. We fix the parts by welding. Closer to the bottom of the tank we cut in the crane.
Now we assemble the two parts of the furnace together so that the tank is located strictly above the firebox. We produce a welded seam.
It is convenient to make a double-leaf lid for the tank. We cut out a circle, divide it into two equal parts, one of which is tightly welded to the tank, the other is fastened with the first half with loops. To make it more convenient to open the tank, we equip the lid with a handle-bracket made of fittings.

Thus, from the most simple materials you can quickly and cheaply build a stove for a bath with your own hands, while it will not functionally differ from a purchased counterpart in any way! By doing the work efficiently and slowly, you will get a result that will delight you and your guests for many years!

Do-it-yourself ordinal masonry stove for a bath - photo report

Everything is very simple, just look at the photos and do the same, naturally you need to use suitable materials and mixes!

Zero row of the furnace base: The second row of the furnace base: Second row and blower chamber Fourth row - block the blower We put the grate Third and fourth row of fireclay bricks We cover fireclay bricks with ordinary We put the fifth row of fireclay bricks We put the furnace door Finished furnace door Appearance kilns at this stage We make a lattice on which stones will have to lie Second row of stone pocket What the oven should look like if you're doing everything right Required places laying fireclay bricks Extreme row of fireclay bricks Making holes in fireclay bricksPreparing the valve for installation (fitting) Gate valve lining Closing the opening above the core We narrow the chimney Chimney masonry Installation of the second valve Fitting the top of the chimney to the ceiling If you did everything right, your sauna stove should look something like this