How to make a Kuznetsov heating and cooking stove? Kuznetsov's sauna stoves: drawings and order Hot master making Kuznetsov's stove.

Kuznetsov's furnaces are very popular both in Russia and in the world. Kuznetsov has been working on the creation of a perfect stove since the 60s, over the long years of work he has gained many like-minded people. A team of craftsmen made a lot of developments and filled the oven market with their products.

For many years, various inventors have been trying to make furnaces with maximum efficiency, since their main task is to work effectively with minimal costs. Surely there are many people who want to make a sauna stove on their own, and this is possible. Today, the topic is more relevant than ever, since heating prices have become very high. Bell-type stoves can heat a house well and quickly, and they also have an interesting appearance.

The Kuznetsov horse is gas flow design. It was created so that the heat could stay in the middle of the bell for a longer time, and so that the cold air currents would escape through a special recess.

Thanks to hot air currents for a long time keep warm in the room, and cold air does not cool the brick, leaving through the pipe. very high, and the efficiency of the Kuznetsov furnace will be be 95%, among this is a very good indicator, since the well-known Russian stove for a bath has an efficiency of only 40%.

Advantages

The bell-type furnace has a simple device and consists of a lower level and a firebox, which are combined into a bell, the main component of such a furnace for a bath - this is an order:

• it heats up evenly also gives off heat;
• it needs to be cleaned very rarely, since there is no soot and smoke;
• heat is practically not dissipated, since the furnace has a high efficiency;
• the design is modern and original.

Read also: Installation in a bath stove with a remote firebox

To make a sauna stove on your own, you should strictly adhere to the manufacturing technology, do everything clearly according to the drawing, and also use high-quality material.

Kinds

The master came up with a wide variety of stoves that differ not only in appearance, but also the purpose:

• heating;
• for cooking;
• for a bath;
• street, barbecue type;
• ovens with sun beds.

When you decide on the option of the sauna stove that you want to make at home, then, first of all, you will need to make drawings for ordering. Ordering is a way of laying bricks, and each row lays down differently. The collection of order resembles a constructor, if you make an effort and spend a little time, then everyone can handle it.

Sauna oven

The sauna stove can heat three rooms at the same time. This is a steam room, a sink and a rest room. Also, the sauna stove performs the function of ventilation, and can create steam different parameters. It can regulate humidity and temperature, with its use the space quickly heats up and autonomously maintains the required temperature. Properly done ordering will provide an impeccable result.

Besides, she can generate electricity. And if you make a stove with a fireplace, then it will be possible to cook food on coals. People who use the sauna stove have confirmed that it can do both wet and steam in the sauna. You can make such a Kuznetsov oven without difficulty following the drawing.

Materials you will need

Since the Kuznetsov furnace is much smaller than standard heating units, much less material will be required for its design:

• fire-clay;
• cleaned sand;
• metal wire;
• iron corner;
• valve and blower;
• grate;
• hearth plate.

To clean the sand, it must be sieved with a fine sieve. It is recommended to use mountain sand, as there is practically no garbage in its composition. In order not to overwork and save time, you can use a ready-made mixture of clay and sand, which is easy to find in hardware stores.

The refractory brick must be brand SHB-8 or SHB-5, and facing for masonry - not lower than grade M150. To find out how many bricks you need, you need to use the drawings.

Read also: How to heat a bath

We make the foundation

Well, when the stove is made during the construction of the house, then the foundation for it can be done immediately. It should be borne in mind that the foundation should be 10 centimeters larger than the furnace around the entire perimeter. The foundation must be made strong design is heavy.

What to look for:

• The foundation of the house should not be the same as the stove foundation.
• If the stove should stand near the wall, then the foundation should have a distance of at least 5 cm from the main one, while the distance should be filled with sand.
• High-quality waterproofing will not interfere with the foundation. To make it, the bottom layer in the pit is covered with sand, and the dried foundation is covered with roofing material.
• If possible, it is necessary to make reinforcement; for this, a metal frame is used.

The foundation is made on the same level as the main one; if necessary, a brick can be added.

How to make bricklaying and firebox

The furnace must be made of refractory bricks, and the outer walls of the furnace must be made of facing bricks. Then during heating and cooling they will behave differently. The firebox should be floating, for this it is worth making a dry seam around it. If this is not done, the bricks during operation may break. When working, you should pay attention to the order, because if you tie the bricks incorrectly, the necessary result will not work.

To make a dry joint, the masonry mortar is removed between the inner and outer bricks, and the resulting cavity is filled with mineral cardboard. Be sure to ensure that the protrusions of the refractory bricks do not fall into the recesses of the ceramic, this will make the firebox a completely independent structure. fireclay brick put on the edge, and ceramic - as you like.

Strengthening the structure with wire

Every third row should be laid with metal wire, this is a small but necessary detail that will make the structure reliable. Iron components must be inserted into the masonry with a gap of 0.5 cm, and fill the resulting void with refractory wool.

Among the variety of existing types of furnaces, the models of I. V. Kuznetsov stand out especially. This option of stove heating for a bath, a private house, a barbecue area deserves your attention due to its undeniable advantages. Let's talk about the features of "blacksmiths" in more detail.

We briefly touched on the features of Kuznetsov's stoves when we wrote about varieties of fireplaces, Russian stoves and open hearths. Now let's pay more attention to this version of the stoves, because the "blacksmiths" heat many Russian houses and are of genuine interest. Igor Viktorovich himself pointed out that he developed the basics of the correct design of household stoves, which were developed by I. S. Podgorodnikov on the basis of the works of Professor V. E. Grum-Grzhimailo, a Russian metallurgist scientist.

How do conventional channel ovens work? The movement of gases in them occurs under the forced action of traction. The gas gives off its heat to the brickwork, heats it from the inside, passing through narrow furnace channels. It is necessary to build a high narrow chimney, the stove warms up unevenly, the brickwork can crack. Kuznetsov's bell-type furnaces work differently - on the principle of natural, free movement of gases.

The name "bell-shaped" furnace data was not in vain: inside they have large cavities, hogs, inverted hoods, which can be located both horizontally and vertically, one above the other.

As a result, the heated smoke rises, hits the cap, the dome, lingers there, and then gradually cools down and falls. Thus, the heat is retained inside the furnace and the contact time of the hot gas with the brickwork is markedly increased.

This principle of operation can be explained by the example of a rubber glove, which is completely filled with gases, in all cavities. In the cap, which as a whole can have a different shape, convection occurs, the convective movement of gases in a natural way, according to the laws of nature.

Most often there are two-bell "blacksmiths". In the lower part of the furnace there is a chamber in which a high temperature is maintained, which ensures the end of the combustion reaction of gases that are divided into warm and cold. At the same time, hot gases are retained in the furnace, and cold gases are gradually discharged into the pipe without cooling the heat exchanger itself.

Advantages of Kuznetsov furnaces:

• The efficiency reaches 93%. For comparison, for traditional Russian stoves, this figure does not exceed 70-80%;
• soot in the "blacksmiths" burns out, so the stove and chimney can not be cleaned for years, which greatly facilitates their care;
• the caps inside the furnace are voids, this allows you to save on brickwork, which would have to be done by equipping conventional draft channels;
• the stove can be placed anywhere - in the corner, in the center of the room, against the wall. Often, "blacksmiths" heat several floors of the house, working on the same firebox;
• any type of fuel can be used in Kuznetsov's furnaces;
• the chimney can be made short, which also leads to material savings;
• uniform heat transfer, the temperature in the house heated by the "blacksmith" fluctuates noticeably less;
• the stove can be easily combined with a hob, fireplace, stove bench - there are a large number of modifications;
• it is possible to build in a circuit for supplying hot water and water heating;
• the high efficiency of the ongoing pyrolysis allows you to save on the fuel used;
• masonry lasts longer, less risk of cracking;
• A valve closed at the wrong time will have practically no effect on the cooling of the furnace, because the hood is always filled with hot air, and the cold one is pressed to the bottom.

There are few cons to Kuznetsov's furnaces. Firstly, while it is difficult to find a master who is ready to take on such a project, the work of a stove-maker will cost a lot, there are some peculiarities and construction rules. Secondly, the "blacksmiths" are rather large in size, they are quite massive. However, Russian ovens cannot be called compact either.

During his career, Kuznetsov has developed many types of furnaces that operate on the principle of free movement of gases. There are bathhouses, for home heating, outdoor (with a barbecue), fireplace, bread, cooking, mixed type.

Arranging a stove in a country house or in the country is a very popular business today. Despite the appearance of modern heating appliances on the market, many prefer the good old brick stove, which for many centuries served as the only source of heat and cooking in the house. Such structures are especially relevant where there is no gasification.

Time does not stand still. The good old "Swedes" and "Dutch" ones were replaced by new and more advanced ones - bell-type furnaces, which are in no way inferior to their channel counterpart. The design of the bell-type furnace is distinguished by a fundamentally new method of using hot gas.

The Kuznetsov bell-type furnace (popularly referred to as "Kuznetsovka") was named after its creator, I.V. Kuznetsov, who started developing a new heating scheme in the early 60s of the last century. The unique technology of "free movement of hot gases" immediately gained recognition and became very popular all over the world.

The peculiarity of "Kuznetsovka" is that the heated gases pass and circulate through the pipe due to their own gravity, in contrast to the "forced" movement through the chimney. We all know from physics lessons that warm air rises, displacing cold air. But, unlike channel prototypes, here the heat does not exit the pipe, but is collected under the hood. Gradually, it cools down there, and it is forced out by gusts of more hot air rising upwards.

The main difference between a channel furnace and a bell furnace is the principle of hot gas movement. In the first one, the smoke, as it were, is drawn up through the pipe, and in the hood, it is pushed out. The hood itself can serve as a container for heating water, cooking, drying, etc. Thus, the bell-type furnace can perform a dual function.

Furnace "Kuznetsovka"

That is, according to the functional characteristics, "blacksmiths" can be divided into:

• bath stoves;
• stoves for cooking (bread, cooking, under a cauldron, barbecue, grill, etc.);
• fireplace;
• furnaces for heating;
• combined type.

The most common are combined types with the possibility of cooking and heating the whole house. Despite the possibility of variation in style and shape, the principle of operation of the bell-type furnace remains unchanged.

To make it easier to understand the basic principle of the Kuznetsov stove, imagine a fire kindled in the open air. Due to the unlimited access of air to the fire, the fire gives little heat. And now let's try to cover this fire with a metal cap, leaving a small gap below, so as not to extinguish the flame at all. Hot air will go up, heating the walls. Gradually cooling down, the air will begin to descend to the left opening while a new portion of hot air takes its place. This is the principle of the free movement of hot gases, which I.V. Kuznetsov successfully applied in his development.

Design features

Today, more than 150 types of designs can be found on the Web, but no matter what form, style of execution they may be, all furnaces are built according to the same method. The designer, creating a scheme for laying a bell-type furnace, set himself two tasks: the productivity and efficiency of the heating system.

Building such a structure is not easy. It is necessary to strictly adhere to the developed by Kuznetsov I.V. orders. The inventor pays great attention and attention to the location of the internal channels of the bell-type furnace.

The hood is a separate chamber for retaining the heated gas, which helps save fuel and increase the efficiency of the furnace.

The standard design of the "blacksmith" assumes the presence of two caps. The lower one is combined with the combustion chamber, and the second cap is located in the upper part of the furnace. The task of the first cap is to separate gases into cold and hot streams. This is what distinguishes the bell-type furnace from the channel one, where the heated air, under the action of draft, freely goes outside. Here, the hot gas flow leaving the furnace tends upward, where it lingers under the first hood and accumulates heat for a long time.

Further, the flow tends through the passage to the second chamber, where it also lingers under the second ceiling, since the passage is at the base. As a result, hot air accumulates heat in the furnace for a long time before exiting through the chimney. This gives a high efficiency - up to 95%. If compared with the efficiency of a traditional Russian stove (channel), then this is 45-50% more.

In addition to the free movement of gas, the bell-type furnace also involves mechanical flow control. For this, valves are installed in the structure. They, as needed, can delay and redirect hot streams. The "summer" valve is designed for the warm season, when the oven is used as a hob for cooking. Having opened the summer valve, the flow of hot air will rush up the chimney without going under the second cap.

Benefits of a bell furnace

If we compare the blacksmith's furnace with other brick counterparts, then it has a huge resistance to deformation. It heats up quickly and retains heat for a long time. Even if the damper is not tightly closed, the generated heat can be stored in such an oven for a long time.

• long-term operation;
• small formation of soot and soot (it almost completely burns out, turning into ash);
• Efficiency - up to 80%;
• lightweight design that can be mastered even by a beginner;
• improved heating system in comparison with the channel analogue;
• simple and practical in care - there is no need to clean it often;
• does not crack;
• versatility of erection (in a house, apartment, bathhouse, etc.)
• a large selection of shapes and designs;
• no need to take into account the height of the chimney to ensure good draft;
• high speed of kindling;
• the design allows you to install a large heating element;
• there is a uniform heating of the furnace;
• the stove cools down longer compared to its brick prototypes.

Ignition of "Kuznetsovka"

Basic installation rules

1. The inner shell of the furnace must be surrounded on all sides by empty space, since the brick will become very hot during the operation of the furnace.
2. The location of the oven heat source can vary depending on the type and shape, but it should always be at the bottom of the hood.
3. Every third row of brickwork should be tied with metal wire. This will strengthen the bond and prevent further deformation of the oven.
4. The shape of the cap can be of any shape and size.
5. When mounting the oven, take into account the fact that when heated, all metal elements (grid, door) will expand. Therefore, all these details of the furnace system must be installed with a margin for expansion. A refractory gasket must be installed between brick and metal.
6. At the first kindling of an already finished furnace, it is not necessary to immediately give the maximum temperature. The furnace must be fired gradually, starting from low temperatures.
7. After installation, the furnace should be treated with a refractory compound.

Today there are a huge number of varieties of bell-type furnaces, because progress does not stand still. Kuznetsov himself laid the foundation for this new type of heating system, and his followers around the world are already making their own adjustments and working on improving the furnace. Of course, it is much easier to build a stove at the stage of building a house. But often people think about the need to place such a heater after the walls have been erected. Here, when developing a scheme, it will already be necessary to take into account the height of the beams, the location of the partitions, the roof, etc.

If the stove is laid during the construction of the house, then it is better to arrange it in such a way that it heats 2-3 rooms at once.

It is simply physically impossible to describe the instructions for laying all types of bell-type furnaces, so in this article we will present the classic version of installing a bell-type furnace with our own hands. By following our instructions exactly, you will definitely be able to assemble a solid, beautiful and functional stove.

The dimensions of the furnace, of course, can be different - the volume of material will depend on this, respectively. But in no case should the order be changed!

What materials will be needed to install the oven

Before starting construction work, stock up on all the necessary materials. In order for the bell-type furnace to please you with its functionality and appearance for many years, the materials must be of good quality.

Tools for laying a bell-type furnace

• construction mixer or drill with a nozzle;
• Circular Saw;
• pliers (for tightening the wire);
• Master OK;
• shovel;
• building level;
• Bulgarian;
• construction gloves.

Let's start installation: step by step instructions

Step 1. We think over the design of the bell-type furnace and draw a diagram on paper.

Before starting work, you must clearly know what width your oven will be. It must be drawn on paper, having calculated all the necessary parameters.

• Calculate the size of the hole for the foundation. Keep in mind that it should be 10 cm wider than the heating structure itself.

Step 2. Laying the foundation

Before installing the oven, you need to take care of the base. It must be firm and perfectly even so that cracking of the structure and deformation does not occur in the future. Laying the foundation is a very responsible step, which must be taken seriously.

For a concrete floor, the foundation will be a kind of platform, raising the oven itself 20-30 cm above the floor level. We make formwork according to the dimensions of the foundation and fasten its corners with wooden blocks (50x50 mm). We pour sand 15-20 cm thick at the bottom of the foundation, tamp it well, and only then slowly pour the solution. The foundation of the main house should not be connected to the foundation of the furnace. They have different weights, which means that shrinkage will be different.

If you are making a wood floor oven:

• We draw the size of the future foundation with a marker on wooden boards and cut a hole around the perimeter with a circular saw.

If the stove is being built in a wooden house, then fire safety rules should be taken into account. It is necessary to lay a sheet of asbestos between the structure of the furnace and the ceilings.

• We dig a hole 80 cm deep and 1.5 m * 1 m wide. Make sure all walls are even. For this, it is better to use a bayonet shovel. We pour sand at the bottom of the pit 15 cm thick, carefully tamp. It is necessary to wait for the sand to shrink (within 2 days).
• Let's start creating formwork. It is possible to use any old wooden doors, unnecessary boards for mounting the formwork, but, ideally, it is better to take plywood. We measure the length and width of the boards according to the dimensions of the foundation, lower them into the pit and connect them with screws. If the formwork is not all immersed in the ground, then we additionally connect the corners with wooden bars (50x50). If the formwork is immersed in the pit to its full height, then you can not do this.
• We reinforce with a metal rod.

In some wooden houses, the floor is already raised above the ground by 50-80 cm. In this case, you will need to dig a hole for the foundation by 20-30 cm. That is, you need to “go deep” anyway, but consider this difference already.

• We prepare a cement mortar (sand + cement + water) and slowly pour it into the pit. Try to pour in layers, each time stirring lightly with a shovel. This will allow excess air to escape and create a stable base. Let the base dry. It will take at least a week, but sometimes you have to wait 20-25 days for the solution to fully set. In this matter, you should not rush, since the operational properties of the furnace depend on the strength of the foundation.
• While the solution is still damp, it is necessary to clearly determine by the building level how level the site turned out to be. Correct if necessary.
• To do this, we take the building level and check the place where the furnace will be installed.
• When the solution is completely frozen and the foundation is ready, you can start laying the furnace. Do not rush with the construction of the furnace. The foundation must be strong and solid, the further operation of the furnace depends on it.
• We lay a layer of reflective foil under the first layer of brickwork. This will prevent heat loss and redirect the direction of heat flow from bottom to top. Take the material a little more than the perimeter of the foundation. After laying the brick, then it will be exactly necessary to cut off the edges with a knife.

Video. Masonry brick "Kolpakova" furnace

Step 3. Preparation of clay-sand mortar for bricklaying. We will use clay as the basis, as it has heat resistance up to 1000 degrees.

On the video you can see visual instructions for kneading the solution.

Video. Preparation of clay mortar for kiln masonry

In a large metal container, it is necessary to combine the clay with water and soak it for 2 days. After that, pour the sand into the container and mix well with an electric drill with a mixer attachment. When the mixture is well mixed and 2 materials do not separate in it, check the mortar for density with a trowel. If the mixture slowly slides off the tool, then the solution is ready. You can start laying bricks.

Masonry of the 1st level of the furnace

Before you start laying bricks on the cement mortar, it is better to immediately lay out each row, according to the ordering scheme, on the floor “dry”. The diagram shows that in some rows you will have to divide the bricks into ½, ¼. Where you have to grind bricks, use the manual method so as not to violate the technical properties of the material and its aesthetic appearance.

• Row number 1. The brick will spread evenly over the entire area of ​​the oven. The first row is solid, keep even corners. Start from the side walls of the blacksmith, laying out with a spoon method, move from right to left. (Figure 14). The brick is laid longitudinally in length. We lay each next layer with an edge in the center, and report the missing part, having beaten off the required size from the new brick.
• Lay row number 2 bricks. At this level, we install a blower (according to the previously developed scheme) and a window for cleaning the furnace (there may be 2 of them). The design of the bell-type furnace allows you to place the door for cleaning and the blower anywhere, but the window must be below the firebox. Here it will be necessary to divide one brick in half and install them so that they protrude from the general row outward. When you lay the second row, you should not connect them with a solution. Upon completion of construction work, you will need to clean the furnace from fallen clay. And after you clean the oven, then fix them with a solution.

In order to properly install the blower doors and windows, it is necessary to thread the knitting wire into the existing holes, make a loop and twist it with a bundle. Insert between bricks. If there are no holes in the factory parts, then they must be made with a drill with a drill bit for metal. Use pliers to twist the loop as tight as possible. While the doors for stability must be fixed with bricks, but not connected with mortar. This will need to be done after laying the third row.

• We put number 3 in the same way as the previous one. From the 3rd row, we begin to raise the firebox itself, laying it out of heat-resistant bricks. Between the front wall of the stove, lined with red brick and the firebox itself (made of fire-resistant brick), we lay basalt cardboard or corrugated foil. After burning out, it will create a perfectly even thermal gap of 5 cm.

The main feature of the Kuznetsov furnace is the "floating" furnace. That is, it should be a separate module, separated from the furnace body by a dry seam. Refractory bricks (chamotte) should not enter into the ordinary brick of the furnace body with any protrusions.

Features of the laying of the Kuznetsovka furnace

• We make row No. 4 a little narrower (by 1.5 bricks) to reduce the connector for falling combustion products (you can see it in the diagram). We design in such a way that a partition appears in the far corner from the firebox leading to the upper compartment.
• Row number 5 is laid out similarly to the 4th row, only a grate must be placed on top of the reset rim. We put it without mortar, and fill the gaps with sand.
• Row number 6 is laid in the same way.

Here we begin to install the furnace door with a gap of 5 mm. We set it carefully on a plumb line to control the level deviation. In the same way as in the 2nd row, when you installed the ash pan, you need to fix the door in the brick with metal wire.

In order not to move the door while you continue to lay a row, fix it with bundles and press down the ends of the bundles with a brick from above. This will allow you to continue working without worrying about the door being level.

• Row number 7. We bring the chimney 0.5 bricks wide from the furnace into an adjacent air chamber.
• Row number 8 is laid similarly to the seventh.
• Row number 9. We display the walls of the furnace with fireclay bricks. A passage is also formed here between the furnace and the first hood for the removal of combustion products (seen in the diagram).
• Row number 10 is laid out by analogy with the previous one.
• On the 11th row, half-brick work goes into the masonry of the whole.
• Row number 12 - a lattice of fireclay is laid out. Again, we continue to stack in half a brick according to the above ordering scheme.
• Row number 13 - the same styling as on the 12th row.
• Row number 14 - remove the crate and leave 2 chimneys.
• 15th row - similarly, but for 16 we use whole bricks instead of halves. We block two chimneys into the air compartments.
• 17th row. We block the movement of smoke with a steel plate. Thus, the channel that you created on the laying of row number 4 now remains the only one.

Step 5. Laying the second level of the furnace.

• Row No. 18 is laid similarly to the 17th, but on this row we fasten the intake plate, which is fixed on three sides with cement mortar.
• Row number 19. We build a column under the very top of the structure. Behind the stove we make a small bosom (the width of a brick) so that the smoke leaves through the pipe.
• Row number 20. We stack in the same way as the 19th row.
• Row number 21. We lay this row so as to block the channel leading to the pipe. The smoke will come out through the bosom that you left below (on the 19th row).
• Row number 22. From a quarter of a brick, perform an extract that comes from a steam collector. We cover the steel part of the ceiling.
• Row number 23. We put it similarly to row No. 22.
• Row number 24. In this row, it is necessary to connect the chimney with a steam collector with a closed channel
• Row #25-26. We lay similarly to the previous row.
• Row number 27. Fence plate installation.
• Row number 28. We cover the structure with a brick roof.
• Row number 29. We make an additional layer similarly to the previous one.
• Row number 30. The row is almost completely covered with bricks.
• Row number 31. Lays the base of the pipe. We bring out a pipe with a diameter of 1 brick.
• Row number 32. A chimney pipe is formed.

Step 6 To make the oven look attractive, you can carefully round off all its edges by manual grinding. This must be done after the completion of construction work.

Step 7. We process the created furnace with a refractory compound.

Step 8. We melt the stove. No need to immediately give the maximum temperature. The oven should gradually “burn out”. Start with the minimum temperature, and then add heat.

That's all! Following the instructions, and most importantly, without violating the masonry order, you will definitely be able to assemble a reliable beautiful stove that will last for decades.

At the end of this article, we suggest watching a video in which you can see the stages of laying out the Kuznetsov furnace.

Video. Do-it-yourself Kuznetsov oven masonry

Furnaces designed by Igor Kuznetsov are currently among the most efficient among all existing designs. For half a century now, such stoves have been used by a huge number of people not only in our country, but also abroad. You can build such a stove with your own hands in your house or in the country if you follow the recommended masonry scheme for a particular model.

What is a Kuznetsov bell-type furnace and where is it used: advantages and disadvantages

Kuznetsov began to develop projects for various types of furnaces in the middle of the last century. For all the time of his work, he created more than 150 designs of furnaces for various purposes.

Kuznetsov's bell-type furnace

The most popular furnace designs:

In fact, there are many more varieties of Kuznetsov furnaces, since there is the possibility of building mixed types.

The main indicator of the operation of the furnace is an increase in efficiency (coefficient of performance). This is exactly what Igor Kuznetsov was striving for when creating bell-type furnaces. Depending on their purpose, the master equipped them with improved functions and capabilities. Some furnaces received an increased degree of heat saving, others received a new improved furnace, and the third was provided with a long service life.

Thanks to the competent development of projects for bell-type furnaces, hot air lingers in them much longer than in conventional designs, and the cooled air quickly goes into the chimney pipe through a special recess. They got this name due to the fact that a kind of “cap” is created inside the furnace, which connects the two parts of the structure - the lower part and the furnace. It also separates gases into hot and cold.

Bread bell oven Kuznetsov

The efficiency of bell-type furnaces reaches 95%, while conventional furnaces have only 25 to 40% efficiency. Thanks to the “free movement of gases”, which is ensured by the introduction of the Kuznetsov system, soot formation is reduced and the smooth heating of the furnace is increased. Such a 4 kW stove can quickly heat a house with an area of ​​​​about 100 square meters. If necessary, the design of the bell-type furnace allows you to install a water heating circuit in the house. And since the thrust through the channels is distributed automatically, the risk of waste is almost zero. Therefore, the view can not be closed.

Advantages of bell-type furnaces

• Uniform heating of the furnace and heat transfer.
• Equipped with a large number of places where you can install a metal heating element.
• They burn without soot and smoke formation.
• Rarely need cleaning (every few years).
• They have a low level of heat loss.
• High degree of economy.
• Crack resistance.
• Possibility of design improvement.
• They have a maximum fuel combustion temperature.
• Possibility of firing various types of solid fuels.
• Strong draft even with a small chimney.

Such furnaces are almost completely devoid of disadvantages, except, of course, for the difficulties in their construction and the cost of purchasing materials.

The design and its distinctive features

The principle of the arrangement of bell-type furnaces is quite simple and lies in the fact that the lower tier of the structure and the hearth are combined into a common space. It is called a cap, inside which hot gases circulate.

The lightest incandescent gases, which are formed during the combustion of fuel, rise to the top of the cap. There they will be until all their heat passes to the brick walls of the masonry.

Standard bell furnace design

As they cool, they become heavy and sink down. The following hot gases "come" to their place, and such a cycle occurs as long as the fuel burns in the hearth. Thus, hot air is always under a kind of cap until the brick takes all the heat. He won't be able to get out until he's completely cool and heavy enough to go down.

Design features of bell-type furnaces

In order to understand how such a stove works, we can consider the option with a glass container, when hot smoke cannot escape anywhere in it and gradually sinks down when cooled.

But you need to know that the cooled gas, which descends downwards, is not cold in the truest sense of the word. It has a temperature of more than 200 ° C, and the combustion temperature of solid fuel is about 800 ° C, so the air rising up will be just as hot. Cooling down, the gas descends to the outlet channels, which are located at the bottom of the furnace masonry. And then he enters the next cap, located above the first. And if the gas was cold enough for this cap, then for the upper one it will be red-hot and therefore rise again to the very top. There they will also heat the material of the oven walls. After cooling, they will go down, as in the first case, but with a temperature of about 130 ° C.

That's the whole process of the furnace, but, like every effective device, there is a small nuance here, which is called the "dry crack". It is an opening located vertically in the furnace about 2–3 centimeters wide, which combines the firebox with the lower hood from the floor itself to the end point of the chamber. Due to the dry gap, heavy cold air can directly enter the chimney without mixing with the rising hot gas and without reducing the combustion efficiency of solid fuel.

Dry joint in the masonry of a bell-type furnace

The sauna stove has the same principle of operation as the heating one, but its design is slightly different.

• The lower cap is equipped with a special metal pan with stones.
• There is access for water inflow and special openings for the exit of hot steam.
• The stove has thicker outer walls, which allow the stones to heat up as much as possible, and the room itself does not overheat.
• The hood has a circuit for heating water in the washing room.

Stones are heated in two ways:

• Directly from hot gases.
• In a steel closed pallet.

Since the stones are located at the top of the first cap and therefore they are heated to a maximum temperature. This is due to the fact that hot air "envelops" the stones from all sides at the same time.

For such a furnace, it is best to purchase rounded streamlined stones. This form will perfectly cope with the heating of air.

If possible, 1/3 of the cast iron ingots can be added to the stones.

Calculation of the main parameters

In order to properly build the Kuznetsov furnace, it is necessary to strictly follow the scheme developed by specialists. Masters who have extensive experience in the construction of such furnaces recommend that before you start capital masonry, practice laying it “dry” if you are doing this for the first time.

If the stove will be built at the stage of construction of the house itself, then it is necessary to draw up a project in such a way that it can heat several rooms at once.

The foundation for the furnace must be of high quality and must have a waterproofing layer. It is also necessary to take into account that the foundation of the house should not go into the basis for the furnace. This design must have its own foundation, giving its shrinkage.

The concrete base should be larger than the oven by about 10 centimeters on all sides. The degree of its deepening will depend on the height of the structure and the soil composition where the furnace will be built. Typically, the depth of the pit is from 40 to 60 centimeters. A pillow of sand is laid at the bottom for waterproofing and a layer of rubble to strengthen the building. To form the side walls, formwork is installed from the boards.

Scheme of ordering the bell-type furnace OVIK-9

The depth of the firebox is 450x470 mm with a dry joint to expand the brick by 2–3 cm. If the firebox needs large sizes of 510x530 mm, then the back wall is laid out not in ½ bricks, as shown in the order, but in ¼ bricks.

Necessary materials and tools

To build a furnace, we need a fairly large amount of materials and tools. This list does not take into account the construction of the foundation and chimney.

Instruments

• Trowel.
• Plumb and building level.
• Container for mixing solution.
• Spatulas.
• Construction corner.
• Perforator.
• Bulgarian.
• Mixer attachment.

Preparatory work before assembling the oven

Before you start building a stove, you need to study in detail the plan of the room where the stove will stand. Since it weighs quite a lot, the foundation must be well reinforced.

The following information will help to build the furnace correctly and efficiently in order to avoid problems during its further operation.

• The cap and the hearth should be combined with a dry seam - a size of 2-3 centimeters. It is necessary for the correct movement of air flows. Heavy gases saturated with water vapor will move in the hearth and create a certain vibration, improving the quality of firewood combustion.
• It is impossible to combine a furnace with a hood, since firewood must burn in a certain volume. This is the only way to create the highest possible temperature.
• Above the combustion chamber, a catalyst made of refractory bricks in the form of a grid should be arranged. Here they heat up to the maximum and burn out what burned in the hearth.

If the stove will be built in a wooden house, it is very important to protect the walls from severe overheating. To do this, it is recommended to install gaskets made of refractory material at the joints of the walls and the furnace itself.

Also, at the joints of the furnace, the gaps that will be filled with refractory material are needed for the free movement of the expansion of the masonry during its heating. Otherwise, the mortar at the seams will crack, and the oven will be deformed.

• The refractory protection inside the furnace must be located in such a way as if it were suspended in the air. That is, it should not come into contact with the walls of the furnace.
• Internal masonry must be installed on the edge. External masonry is done at the discretion of the master.
• The wire is needed to strengthen the brick bond. Therefore, every 2-3 rows it is necessary to lay it so that the stove is more durable and stable.
• After the solution has completely dried, the walls of the furnace must be treated with a special refractory substance.
• Trial kindling should be carried out from the lowest possible temperature, with a phased addition of heat.

Do-it-yourself bell-type furnace construction

We will begin the construction of the furnace from the foundation, since it is it that is its basis and one of the main elements for ensuring the strength characteristics of the structure.

We leave the concrete to harden for several weeks, since the longer the foundation stands, the stronger and more reliable it will be.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for laying the Kuznetsov furnace - ordering (photo)

1. We lay out the first row of bricks. It must be perfectly even, as it is a solid basis for future ordering. We make the thickness of the seams about 5 mm. We check the correctness of the angles. For this laying we will need 20 bricks.

   

   We lay out the first row of bricks for the oven

2. We begin to create a blower chamber and a lower cap. In order to be able to clean its base after the masonry is completed, we put two halves of the brick protruding from the main row, and do not sit them on the mortar. We install the blower door and temporarily support it with bricks.

   

   We put the second row of the furnace

3. We put the 3rd row according to the drawing. During the masonry period, we tightly fix the blower door.

   

   Third row laying

4. We partially lay out the 4th row of fireclay bricks. From it we create the side walls of the furnace and the end wall. We block the blower door with 2 ordinary bricks, release them a little above it and cut it obliquely. We also put 2 hewn bricks from the end of the blower. Between the two types of bricks, we leave a five-millimeter gap. To do this, we put a simple five-millimeter corrugated cardboard between them. In the future, it will simply burn out and the thermal hole we need will remain. We will have to make such slots in other rows, where two types of bricks will join.
5. We continue laying 4 rows. After we lay the bricks on the side above the blower door, we block the middle of the door with refractory and ordinary bricks, hewn on both sides from the side. We will need to take 1 ordinary and 1 fireclay brick.

   

   Fourth row laying

6. From the fifth row we create a fuel chamber. We cut the brick obliquely and put the front wall of the hearth. The internal space of the furnace between the masonry should be similar to the size of the grate so that it easily fits into the brick rectangle and onto the bricks of the previous row protruding by 10-15 mm. We make a five-millimeter gap between the walls and the grate. Behind the firebox, where the first cap is located, we create a channel in ½ bricks to connect the two caps. We will need 12 and ½ red and 4 refractory bricks. Here, on the protruding bricks of the previous row, we lay out the grate (we do not fix it with mortar). The holes are filled with sand.

   

   Laying the fifth row

7. On the sixth row, we install the combustion chamber door. The holes between the bricks and the door are filled with asbestos.

   

   Laying the sixth row

8. We put the next row. When laying the end wall of the furnace on the left side, we make a gap of 2-3 cm, which will serve as a dry seam. We use 12 ordinary and 3 refractory bricks.

   

   Laying the seventh row

9. We put the eighth row according to the drawing, using 12 ceramic and 3 refractory bricks.

   

   Laying the eighth row

10. In the 9th row, we make the walls of the hearth, and between it and the cap from below we create a passage where the combustion products will go. We make the side walls ten millimeters lower than the rest of the masonry. The bricks that we put over the firebox are shifted a little to cover a small part of its frame. Before that, we cut the bricks obliquely and so we create a “notch” in which we will lay the main central brick. We use 12 ordinary and 2 and a half refractory bricks.
11. Here, between the front side bricks, which are located above the chamber door, we put a centering brick covering the door rim. Before that, we cut it obliquely. We cover the side of the chamber on the left with a strip of asbestos 10 mm. She will align the entire 9th row.

    

    Ninth row laying

12. On the bricks of the tenth row, which are covered with refractory asbestos, we put an ordinary brick on the “dry” one. In the masonry that frames the furnace, we make a small ten-millimeter cutout on which the hob will lie. We leave a gap of 5 mm between the stove and the brick on all sides to heat the metal. Chamotte brick, which we lay in front and on the right of the furnace, we cut obliquely. We make a small ten-millimeter gap between the slab and the masonry.
13. After we have laid out the 10th row, on the openings in the masonry we place asbestos twine, which is saturated with a mixture of clay. Place a panel on top. We fill all the holes between it and the bricks with sand.

    

    We lay the tenth row

14. On the 11th row, we begin to create the walls of the cooking chamber and install a frame with doors. Between the steel frame and the masonry we make a gap of 5 mm. To form the frame, we wrap it with refractory rope.

    

    We lay the eleventh row

15. We lay out the 12th row according to the drawing of 11 ceramic bricks.

    

    We lay the twelfth row

16. On the 13th row, we continue to form the chamber and side channels.

    

    Laying row 13

17. We lay out the 14th row strictly according to the drawing.

    

    Laying row 14

18. We put the 15th row in two approaches. First, we raise the walls of the chamber and channels to the level of the steel frame of the door, and then we create a jumper for it. On this row we place a metal sheet 600x550 mm and make a cutout in it for the hood. For strength, we put 4 iron corners and 1 strip on top of the sheet.

    

    Laying 15 rows

19. We put an ordinary brick on the corners of the 16th row and a strip, as indicated in the drawing. Leave the channels open. On the bricks that frame the near channel and for the hood before laying, we make holes for the chimney valves. We make a 5 mm gap in the masonry.
20. Here, on the site with openings, we put 2 valves.

    

    Laying row 16

21. On the next row, we block the hearth for cooking and the valves with ceramic bricks so that the outlet channels are open.

    

    Laying row 17

22. Next, we form the second cap. To do this, without mortar, we install two halves of the brick, which we raise above the main masonry. This is necessary so that you can then clean the base of the furnace hood. After finishing the masonry, we fix these bricks with mortar.

    

    We put the 18th row

23. We put the 19th row according to the drawing of 12 and a half red bricks.

    

    

    We put the 27th row

24. On the 28th row in the masonry that frames the chimney channel, we make 10 mm cutouts for mounting the main chimney damper. When making openings, we regularly apply a valve so that it is located 5 mm from the walls of the furnace and freely stands in the gap we made.

    

    We put the 28th row

25. Here, in the opening on the solution, we install the valve itself
26. On the 29th row, we take 19 ordinary bricks and almost completely cover the surface of the structure. We leave intact only the chimney opening with the valve.

    

    We put the 29th row

27. On the 30th row, we also almost completely cover the surface of the furnace according to the scheme.

    

    We put the 30th row

28. On the 31st row, we lay the base of the pipe in 1 brick. Its size must correspond to the cross section of the chimney. The laying is carried out from 5 bricks.

    

    We put 31 row

29. Then we create a chimney pipe. For each row we need 5 ceramic bricks. The oven has been built. Now it should stand until the solution is completely dry.

    

    We lay out the chimney of the desired height

Operation features

The difference between Kuznetsov furnaces is that they do not require special care and are very easy to operate. For them, it is enough just to prepare the appropriate dry solid fuel (firewood) in the right amount.

Since the efficiency of a bell-type stove is very high, the wood consumption will be much less than in conventional stoves, to which we are accustomed.

In bell-type furnaces, soot is practically not formed, since it is spent on secondary combustion and an increase in thermal energy.

• Dry the oven well before using it. To do this, it must be heated 2 times a day, one at a time - an hour and a half with a small amount of fuel. The door of the blower and furnace must be open.
• It is not recommended to use chips and cardboard in large volumes for kindling. Only for a short time they will give the maximum temperature, which will entail cracking of the bricks.
• To kindle the stove, it is best to use paper, torches or birch bark. This will allow you to remove cold air from the chimney pipe, create the necessary draft and get the combustion temperature of firewood around 350 ° C. In winter, if the stove has not been used for a long time, then kindling is recommended to be carried out with the “summer” valve open.
• After the start of combustion, firewood must be placed in the furnace chamber in order to obtain a maximum operating temperature of 800–900 ° C.

Bell-type stoves practically do not need cleaning, and if the need arises, it is best to seek help from professional stove-makers. They will quickly and efficiently clean the chimney, furnace, grate and other elements of the furnace.

Video: we build a Kuznetsov oven with our own hands

Following the detailed instructions and the developed scheme, you can independently build a convenient and functional Kuznetsov oven in your home. A properly selected scheme of the model will be able to decorate the design of any interior of the room, and will also fully fulfill the functions assigned to it - to heat the house and serve as a kitchen for cooking.

I. V. Kuznetsov has been designing, manufacturing and improving furnaces since 1962. During this time, more than 150 different designs were invented, each of which strove for an absolute efficiency indicator - 95% efficiency. In this article we will tell you how to make a Kuznetsov oven with your own hands.

The principal feature of the development is the system for separating gases into cold and hot flows. Due to the unique bell-shaped structure of the furnace, hot air is retained inside, and cold air is discharged through a separate channel into the chimney. Given that a higher combustion temperature is maintained in the hood, and the heat is distributed evenly throughout the body, the efficiency reaches its peak. For comparison, the efficiency of conventional furnaces is 30-35%, solid fuel boilers - 80%, pyrolysis - 85%.

The low productivity of most solid fuel units is explained by the fact that warm air escapes along with the combustion products into the pipe. In addition to the fact that the remaining volume is not always enough for full heating, the rapidly escaping flue gases further reduce the thermal threshold. In some designs, they try to solve this problem by increasing (lengthening) the chimney, but then there is a risk of reducing the draft and, as a result, reducing the efficiency. The creation of such a unit, which would provide full-fledged traction and increase heat transfer, became the main goal of the designer Kuznetsov.

Video 1 Construction of a heating furnace according to the Kuznetsov system

Design features

All Kuznetsov furnaces (and, we recall, there are more than 150 samples) can be divided by functionality:

• heating;
• cooking;
• fireplaces;
• grill;
• complex.

And although the most popular model is cooking, where the function of cooking is provided, all of these units work on the same principle - the separation of hot gases into streams.

In the photo you see a do-it-yourself Kuznetsov stove, where the firebox is located near the floor itself and for the entire length. It turns out a very effective lower heating, followed by a transition to the upper levels. Immediately behind the firebox there is a cap with a lower outlet, which separates the hot gas. Its hottest part rises, and the cooled, colder part settles on the cap and exits through the hole. Such circulation occurs constantly while firewood is burning in the firebox.

This is how a furnace with a water circuit looks like:

Strengthening the lower heating increases the level of human comfort. The floor warms up not only under the spot of the structure, but almost along the entire perimeter, respectively, the heat transfer area increases, the room warms up faster and more efficiently.

Some experts are trying to prove the inefficiency of such a technology, referring to the fact that the trapped smoke worsens traction. However, for more than 50 years this design has been considered the most effective. That is why the masters are trying to make Kuznetsov's furnaces with their own hands, find drawings, consult with the author of the technology.

The unit can be used not only for heating and cooking, but also for providing hot water. It is enough to weld a cast-iron or steel heat exchanger on the back of the cap.

Why is the cap method so effective?

1. Flue gases are stratified according to temperature outside the furnace.
2. The more caps within the same design, the more obstacles hot gas encounters and the longer it lingers inside.
3. The location of the hood directly behind the furnace - hot gas instantly enters the bell and maintains a high temperature. All combustion products are collected in the hood at the same time, which increases the time for their processing and reduces soot deposits on the chimney. By the way, this is why Kuznetsov's home-made heating and cooking stoves do not need frequent cleaning.
4. The heat exchanger is also located outside the furnace, therefore, it does not take part of the heat and does not reduce the efficiency.

In other words, the products of combustion, getting into the cap (s), are forced to give up all their heat in order to get out of there. The lower outlet lets out only the cold gas, which has already given up all its temperature.

If we are talking about a furnace with a water circuit, then there is a double register of steel pipes in the body, giving out a power of 17-63 kW. There are also double-circuit units that produce water heating simultaneously with heating.

And now we are embarking on a responsible process - we make the Kuznetsov oven with our own hands, we publish drawings, videos, a step-by-step guide.

Preparatory process

Necessary materials:

• sand - 150 kg
• solid red brick - 755 pieces;
• fireclay bricks - 65 pieces;
• medium-fraction refractory clay - 135 kg;
• a cast-iron door for a blower (you can make it yourself from a paired steel sheet);
• steel wire;
• fittings for the grate or a ready-made grate;
• corner 350x400x400 mm;
• valve.

All bricks are manually checked before laying, they should not have hollow cracks, the minimum number of chips.

Even a novice master can make a blacksmith, while it is important to follow the masonry technology and order.

Foundation

The ideal foundation is considered to be connected with the house, but only if the house and the stove are built at the same time. Otherwise, you should prepare a new one, and not try to connect with the old one.

A layer of bituminous insulation or roofing material is laid on the foundation to prevent the penetration of groundwater and the wetting of the lower row.

ordering

Before starting the ordering, it is necessary to calculate in advance the location of the chimney in accordance with the drawing. Only after that you can proceed to the actual installation.

In order not to be mistaken in the number of rows and the sequence of laying, watch the video of the ordering of the Kuznetsov furnace

Video 2 Ordering

Step-by-step instruction

1. The first 2 rows are laid out dry from fireclay refractory bricks. The designer himself recommends making the lower part thicker, but 2 rows are optimal for effective convection. After the first row is laid out, measure the angles - they should be exactly 900. From the 3rd row, the preparation of the trajectory of the smoke channels begins.

1. From the second row, the preparation of the ash pan and blower begins. Through this chamber, combustion air will be sucked in, and it is also convenient to remove the ashes. All bricks are laid in a checkerboard pattern, the thickness of the seam is within 5 mm. Masonry - only on clay mortar.

1. You make internal partitions and a wall of fireclay bricks between the blower and the stove. On the 5th row, it is desirable to mount a cast-iron grate. The thickness of the grate depends on which logs will be loaded into the chamber.

For thermal expansion, when laying the grate, it is necessary to leave a deformation gap of 5-7 mm between the grate and the wall. The grate itself should be mounted at a slight angle to the door, but at the same time leave a small threshold so that chips or hot coals do not enter the room.

In the same row you make a door for the fuel chamber. The fuel chamber must be lined with fireclay bricks laid on edge. Lining - and this is the name of this process - is necessary to protect the furnace wall from high temperatures.

1. On the 16th row, close the chamber completely to install the cap. After that, you begin to lay out the second chamber immediately on top of the first - this will be the second cap.

1. Further, following the order, reach the 26th row, after which the upper part is completely closed with a brick.

1. A day later, you can conduct the first test run with a minimum amount of fuel. This is necessary to check for through cracks and firing bricks and mortar. Do not abuse the amount of firewood - the structure should heat up very slowly and not get hot.

The video provides detailed instructions on how to make a Kuznetsov oven with your own hands:

1. You should not connect the first cap to the firebox - this way you will get an ordinary, not the most efficient stove. It is in the separation of the bell and the firebox, the creation of a limited space for combustion, that the main “secret” of Igor Kuznetsov lies.
2. During laying, fix each even row with steel wire - this will ensure a stable position and stability.
3. Be sure to cover the finished heating and cooking panel with a refractory compound.