Cheap do-it-yourself floor screed. How to make a floor screed: characteristics of the types of screeds, we make a screed with our own hands in stages

There are many reasons why a floor needs to be screeded indoors. This process is quite complicated and requires special skills, especially in cases where the screed is performed over large areas. But in relatively small rooms, such as an apartment or a private house, you can handle all the work with your own hands.

It is enough to strictly observe the technology, having previously studied detailed recommendations for beginners.

Peculiarities

The main purpose of the screed is to make the concrete base under the floor covering as even as possible. This is done for both aesthetic and practical reasons: furniture will not wobble on a flat surface, and decorative floors will last much longer and will not deform.

A tie is required in the following cases:

On earthen ground in a private house, garage and other premises;

Under parquet, laminate, linoleum and other modern coatings, according to the laying technology, requiring an absolutely flat surface of the base layer;

When it is necessary to make waterproofing or thermal insulation of the floor in the room, including when installing a system of warm water or electric floors.

Features of laying technology and choice of materials depend on many factors. It is necessary to take into account such characteristics of the room as the condition of the old coating, the height of the ceilings, the floor and the presence of a basement. Based on these data, the required thickness of the screed is calculated and the necessary materials are selected.

Time-tested budget options - cement-sand or concrete mixtures, are laid on the ground in a private house and garage. They can also be used in the apartment on the ground floor.

For apartments on the second floor and above, it is better to fill the floor with more expensive, but light self-leveling mixtures or dry screeds.

According to the method of laying, there are three types of screed:

Dry or prefabricated screed. This is a construction of durable building boards of drywall or plywood, covered with a waterproofing compound. The thickness of the plates is 15-30 mm. Laying is done on a layer of dry polystyrene or expanded clay with sheets overlapping each other so that the joints are completely closed. The prefabricated method is the simplest and does not require drying before finishing. It is only possible in rooms with low humidity. In cases where the coating is not even enough, it is poured with a liquid self-leveling mixture.

Semi-dry screed is a concrete or cement-sand mixture with a minimum amount of water. For the device of such a floor, considerable experience and many special devices are required, therefore, this method is mainly used by professionals.

Depending on the installation method, the screed can be made both single-layer and multi-layer. A multi-layer screed is made from a rough concrete and a smooth finish layer. The rough layer is used to correct large floor defects and give the necessary structural rigidity. Its thickness should be at least 2 cm. The final layer, the thickness of which is from 3 to 15 mm, is needed to make the surface perfectly flat and smooth.

There are also three methods of screeding according to the nature of adhesion to the base:

Tied or solid screed. In this case, there is a direct adhesion of the material to the base coating. It is important to ensure good adhesion and uniformity of the screed.

This method can only be applied on a dry base not lower than the second floor of the building.

Screed on the separating layer. Such a layer can be waterproofing materials, in rare cases, oiled paper. The base and screed layers are independent of each other. According to the laying technology, the minimum layer is 30 mm, reinforcement may be required.

floating screed is performed on materials intended for heat, hydro and noise insulation with wall allowances of about 15 cm. Thus, the concrete layer and the floor itself are not connected to the base. The minimum layer thickness is 5 cm, reinforcement is required. It is laid on the first floors of residential and utility rooms on a concrete and soil base.

Characteristics of floor coverings

The choice of decorative floor coverings on the modern market is quite wide and is limited only by the imagination of the owner and the performance of the room. Under any of the coatings, the floor screed must be done correctly. And since they have different requirements for materials and evenness, it is necessary to carefully approach the choice of leveling compound.

So, for laying parquet, laminate and self-leveling polymer floors, you need a perfectly smooth and horizontally flat surface. For the device of such a screed, self-leveling liquid mixtures are used. At the same time, for a polymer self-leveling floor self-levelling compound must be based on the same polymers.

For laying linoleum, carpet or tile in the bathroom, an even concrete or cement-sand screed will suffice.

In new buildings, a floor screed may not be needed, but, unfortunately, this does not always happen. Well, if the apartment is bought with a rough finish, then you can make a minimal screed and proceed with further repairs. It is worse when the apartment is turnkey, and the quality of the finished coating leaves much to be desired. Then it must be redone, completely dismantling the low-quality layer.

In a private house, to save money, you can make a concrete or cement-sand screed. On earthen soil, it is imperative to make a concrete base on a multi-layer cushion of gravel, crushed stone, expanded clay and waterproofing materials. Lightweight mixtures may be needed only on the second and third floors.

The device of floors can be carried out on almost any surface, you just need to choose the right composition. The exception is wood flooring. On such surfaces, the finished coating can quickly deform and crack, and the tree itself can rot under it. Of course, there are special blends, but they can be quite expensive. Therefore, if it is possible to dismantle to a concrete base or to the ground, then it is better to do just that.

If it is not possible to remove the wooden floor, then it must be prepared very carefully. To do this, it is necessary to replace all rotten and damaged elements, scrape the surface of the tree and cover it with a special primer.

Where to begin?

To complete the work in a short time, the preparation of the premises, materials and tools is carried out. All communications are being laid, such as electrical wiring, water supply, sewerage and heating, and repairs are being made to the entire premises. There are also requirements for the microclimate of the room: air temperature - within 5-25 ° C, humidity - 60%, without sudden changes. The absence of drafts is important and direct sunlight is not allowed.

The most difficult is the preparation of the soil base. First of all, you need to remove the top layer of soil, the thickness of which can reach 40 cm. In cases where the distance from the soil to the leveling mark of the screed is more than 35-40 cm, a layer of sand of the required thickness is poured. After that, the entire surface is carefully compacted using a special vibratory machine or a heavy log 1 meter long. The surface is considered sufficiently compacted if there are no footprints on it.

To calculate the materials that will be needed for a screed device on a concrete base, the highest point of the floor is determined. This is the mark necessary to ensure that the finished coating is even. It is usually located in one of the corners or against one of the walls. It is defined as follows:

From the threshold of the room vertically along the wall, you need to measure 1 meter and make a mark with a pencil. Using a building or laser level, draw a straight horizontal line on the wall;

Using a tape measure, make measurements from the drawn line to the floor for every 10-15 cm. The point, the distance to which will be the smallest, is the highest point of the floor;

The received measurements should be marked on the rail less as much as the floor will rise;

Using the same rail, mark the highest point of the floor around the entire perimeter of the walls and draw a control line along them. Clean the wall from plaster 0.2-0.3 cm above the marks made.

Also, to calculate the height of the screed, it must be taken into account that at the junctions of different rooms after laying the floor covering there should not be differences in the level of the floor. The exception is the bathroom and toilet, where the level must be lower to avoid leakage in case of unforeseen accidents of water supply and sewerage pipes, and some design decisions. In this case, the thickness of the coatings is taken into account, and the difference is compensated by the levels of the screed.

materials

Depending on the characteristics of the room and the selected floor covering, you can choose one or more possible options for floor screed compositions, which may require additional materials:

Concrete screed: cement grade M400 is used, with heavy loads on the floor - M500. Depending on the fillers, there are several recipes for preparing the mixture. The most common is 3 parts of sand to 1 part of cement, 2 liters of water are added to 10 kg of the resulting mixture. With the use of large inclusions, such as crushed stone, expanded clay or gravel - 1 part of cement, 4 parts of coarse filler, 2 parts of sand, 0.4 parts of water. For strength, polypropylene fiber is added to such mixtures at the rate of 50 g per 100 kg of the mixture. For plasticity, plasticizers are used, the required amount of which is indicated in the instructions.

Cement-sand screed: 1 part cement, 4 parts perlite, 2 parts sand, 13 parts water. The preparation of the mixture is done in several stages, the sequence of which must be strictly observed. You may also need to change the amount of water to achieve the desired consistency. You can add plasticizers. A layer of such a floor is made from 2 cm, reinforcement is recommended only with a layer of 4 cm or more. Dries within 3-7 days.

Self-leveling compounds are sold ready-made and diluted with the required amount of water specified in the instructions. There are mixtures based on cement, gypsum, or combinations thereof, as well as using polymers. A gypsum-based screed must not be used in rooms with high humidity, as if wet, the gypsum acquires the consistency of a sticky dough. The thickness of the mixtures can be from 0.3 to 30 cm, which is indicated in the manufacturer's instructions, but given their high cost, it is advisable to make a layer up to 3 cm. At the same time, the thickness of the draft layer is 5-25 mm, and 1-2 mm. Drying time - from 10 hours to 3 days, depending on the composition.

Dry screed- These are large sheets of drywall or plywood that are laid on a layer of bulk materials such as polystyrene or expanded clay. Further work on such a screed can be started immediately after its installation.

When working with any type of screed, a primer and putty will be needed. For concrete and cement-sand screed, a universal primer or concrete contact is suitable. Suitable types of primers for self-leveling floors are indicated on the packaging of the mixtures.

Putty must be selected on a resin or adhesive basis.

You will also need mounting foam to fill large gaps near the heating pipes. For laying the reinforcing layer, it is easiest to use a special fine-mesh mesh made of wire or plastic. For floors with increased load, a welded steel mesh or reinforcement structure is needed, which is welded on site. To fix the reinforcing structure, it is necessary to prepare special supports, which can be made of plastic, wire or metal. For 1 sq. m you need from 3 to 5 units of such clamps.

In cases where it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing materials, the choice is limited by the condition of the base and the chosen screed method. According to the composition, 4 types of waterproofing are distinguished:

Polymer;

bituminous;

Bitumen-polymer;

Mineral.

There are also differences in the way the material is laid:

Roll or film. This is the most popular method of waterproofing using polyethylene film or roofing material. Modern types of polymeric multilayer membranes also differ in heat-insulating qualities. Such materials are used for laying on earthen ground and on the first floors of apartment buildings. Self-levelling mixtures and a cement-sand screed with a thickness of less than 2 cm are not used on this type of waterproofing due to poor adhesion and the risk of surface deformation;

• Liquid. These are special compounds that differ in varying degrees of viscosity and have water-repellent properties;

Mastics and powder. The latter are loose compositions based on plasticizers and various binders, which are diluted with water according to the instructions immediately before use.

In some cases, materials with a heat-insulating effect are laid on top of the waterproofing layer. This is a mandatory procedure when installing a screed on the ground and for the construction of underfloor heating systems. You can choose from the usual bulk materials, such as perlite, expanded clay, crushed stone or coarse sand. Some prefer insulation in the form of plates, which can be made of mineral wool, polyurethane foam or extruded polystyrene foam - foam.

Instruments

The list of necessary tools depends on the chosen screed device method. and some other factors:

Sander. It will be needed to process the concrete base before work. If the area of ​​the room is small, a metal brush can be used instead at this stage. A concrete screed must be processed with a grinder after complete solidification.

Industrial or powerful domestic vacuum cleaner.

Lighthouses. It is possible to use a T-shaped aluminum profile, round or rectangular pipes made of steel with a diameter of up to 70 mm, wooden slats, dowel-nails. It should be borne in mind that pipes and rails are dismantled from a partially solidified solution. If the screed is made with self-leveling mixtures, beacons may not be needed, or special beacons-benchmarks are used.

Building level. A bubble building level is a must, the recommended length is from 2 m. For greater convenience, you can additionally use a laser level, it is much easier to install beacons with it.

Roulette. The minimum length is 8 meters.

Spatulas, master.

Rule and construction mixer or drill with mixer nozzle. The latter is needed for mixing the components of mixtures. For concrete screed it will be more convenient to use a concrete mixer.

Rollers and brushes for applying primers and waterproofing compounds.

Needle roller, paint brushes, squeegees and beacons-benchmarks for working with leveling agent.

Construction gloves, respirator, goggles. To protect the skin, respiratory tract and organs of vision.

Capacities for mixing.

How to calculate the expense?

For bulk mixtures, the average consumption values ​​for coarse leveling agent are 2-5 kg ​​per 1 sq. m of the room with a layer thickness of 1 mm. For the finishing leveler - 1.5-1.7 kg per 1 sq. m per 1 mm layer. All that remains to be done is to count the number.

Example: the consumption of coarse leveling agent 5 kg is multiplied by a layer thickness of 3 mm, and then multiplied by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room in square meters. It turns out the following: 5x3x10 \u003d 150

In total, you will need 150 kg of self-leveling mixture for a room of 10 square meters. m. Taking into account the fact that there are 25 kg of dry mix in the package, this is 6 bags of leveling agent. Calculations for the finish layer are made according to the same scheme.

For a classic concrete screed per 1 sq. m and a layer thickness of 5 cm will need 22.5 kg of cement, sand 47.5 buckets with a volume of 10 liters, water 10 liters. For screed using large inclusions in the form of crushed stone per 1 sq. m and the thickness of the layer will need 8.5-9.2 kg of cement, 40.7-46.1 kg of crushed stone, 22.8-26 kg of sand.

These calculations are approximate, you need to make accurate calculations yourself based on the recommendations of manufacturers of building materials.

Important nuances

If the height difference in the room exceeds 4 cm, then it is necessary to choose a starting leveler for the subfloor. Cement-sand and concrete composition is always laid on the lighthouses. In rooms with high humidity, such as bathrooms, toilets, kitchens, cement-based mortars are used. In living rooms, it is possible to use a screed using gypsum.

When installing a multi-layer screed, you need to choose solutions that have less weight. It would be better to opt for compositions using expanded clay or polystyrene concrete.

If the differences in the level of the floor surface are small, it is better to fill in self-leveling compounds. They can be based on cement, gypsum, sand, with additives for plasticity and reduction or increase in drying time. Polymer self-leveling floors based on polyurethane, epoxy resin or methyl methacrylate, despite the high cost, have a large number of advantages.

Due to the thin bulk layer, they are great for apartments with low ceilings. The finished surface has good waterproofing properties and special strength, is not subject to temperature changes, deformations, and aggressive environments.

For finishing surface leveling, self-leveling self-leveling mixtures are usually used. Such a composition can be made an independent decorative coating using pigments to create a colored background or pattern. By adding mineral chips or other inclusions to a standard cement mortar and subsequent grinding after the mortar has set, a surface similar to natural stone can be achieved.

If the room area is too large and the work will take more than one day, the surface is divided into several sections using closed beacons or partitions.

Preparatory work

Preparing the premises for the installation of a screed on the ground begins with laying a pillow of thermal and waterproofing. Materials can be selected at your discretion, but there are a few general recommendations. Layers can be swapped, different fillers can be used, or the thickness can be changed.

A layer of gravel or crushed stone 5-15 cm thick is poured onto the surface prepared in advance. The next layer is poured 10-15 cm of sand, which can be moistened, and a layer of 10-15 cm of crushed stone or expanded clay. Each layer is carefully compacted using a vibrator or a heavy log. Crushed stone must be selected with a fraction of 40-50 mm.

It is recommended to sprinkle layers of crushed stone or expanded clay with crushed stone or sand. The last layer is well leveled and check the absence of sharp corners on the rubble. If sharp stones remain, the waterproofing material may tear. For better adhesion, it is recommended to shed the top layer with liquid cement and wait for it to dry.

For waterproofing on the ground, you can use roll materials or a film with a density of 200 microns or more. The material must be laid on the base with an overlap on each other, the edges should be raised above the level of the future screed by 15 cm and attached with adhesive tape to the walls. At the level of the screed with a small margin in height, attach a damper tape. It compensates for the compression and expansion of the screed, thereby preventing the deformation of walls and floors during temperature and humidity changes.

A reinforcing layer is laid on top of the waterproofing. Fine-mesh welded steel mesh, which has the necessary rigidity, is best suited. A steel mesh is installed to a height of 1/3 of the thickness of the screed with the help of special pads-chairs. If a rebar structure is used, concrete after pouring will need to be compacted with special vibration equipment.

Too large a room can be divided into square or rectangular parts, which are also called maps. One card needs to be loaded in one day and its size depends only on the productivity of employees.

The map is fenced off with formwork made of wet wood or laminated plywood with a height according to the level of the screed; after the cement has set, the formwork must be removed.

To prepare the room for the screed, work begins with the dismantling of the old coating. Linoleum and wooden floor boards are torn off quite easily, but tiles will have to be beaten off with a perforator. Skirting boards and doors, along with slopes, also need to be removed.

Under the dismantled layer, there may be both floor slabs, which will greatly simplify the task, and an old screed. In the second case, the concrete must be carefully examined. If it crumbles or there are a large number of defects in the form of cracks and chips, the entire layer should be beaten off with a perforator. If the old screed is in good condition, only light thin-layer mixtures can be poured onto it.

After cleaning construction debris, you need to clean the surface with a grinder or brush. Remove crumbling concrete, adhesive residues, mixtures and stains. Clean with a vacuum cleaner and degrease the floors with soapy water or solvent. Small cracks, chips, potholes and joints of the floor with walls should be embroidered up to 5 mm, primed and covered with a thin layer of resin-based putty or adhesive solution. To correct large defects, it is more advisable to use a cement-sand mortar or a self-leveling mixture.

The next step is to treat the surface with a primer using a roller or paint brush. Any universal primer or concrete contact is suitable for a concrete or cement-sand screed; a special polymer primer must be used for self-leveling self-leveling floors. With a multi-layer screed, priming the surface is mandatory before each layer. The average drying time of the surface is two hours. If necessary, a second coat of primer can be applied after the first has completely dried.

With the help of mounting foam, it is necessary to close up all the holes through which the screed mixture can flow into another room or to the neighbors below. Most often, such places are located near heating pipes.

It is necessary to wait for the foam to dry completely, cut off the protruding excess, and only after that proceed with the rest of the work.

A layer of waterproofing is laid on the prepared surface. This must be done in the following cases:

If there are large gaps at the joints of the floor and walls;

In the bathroom and in the kitchen;

On the ground floor of the house;

When arranging underfloor heating systems.

For these four cases, it is best to use roll or film materials. They need to be overlapped on top of each other, bringing the edges of the material to the walls with a margin of up to 15 cm and attaching with adhesive tape. In some cases, liquid waterproofing can be used, which is applied strictly in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. On top of the waterproofing layer, it is recommended to attach a damper tape to the walls, the protruding part of which is cut off after the work is completed.

At this stage, a system of warm water or electric floors is installed. Thermal insulation in the form of plates must be laid under them to reduce energy losses. The reinforcing mesh is installed on special chairs, the height of which must be at least 1/3 of the thickness of the screed. During installation, damage to the waterproofing layer must not be allowed.

How to do?

When all the preparatory work is completed, you can proceed directly to the screed device. All methods have their own nuances, so it makes sense to consider each of them in stages and get acquainted with detailed step-by-step instructions on how to properly make a floor screed with your own hands.

For a screed made of concrete or a cement-sand mixture with a thickness of 3 cm, it is necessary to install beacons along which the mortar will be leveled. In an apartment, it is most convenient to use an aluminum T-shaped profile as lighthouses. It does not need to be dismantled and does not weigh down the floor structure.. The only drawback of this material is if, during the installation of the profile and laying the screed, the protective with aluminum is damaged, rust may appear over time.

Lighthouses made of wooden slats and steel pipes must be removed from a partially hardened screed, and the resulting recesses should be covered with the same solution. When screeding on the ground, steel pipes with a diameter of up to 70 mm are used. Instead of pipes, you can use a rectangular steel profile.

Beacons are attached to a gypsum mixture or cement-sand mortar, laid out in small hills at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other. Gypsum dries faster without affecting the strength of the coating, so it is more convenient to use it in residential areas.

Gypsum fixing is not allowed in rooms with high humidity. If a waterproofing layer was not laid on the base, the beacons can be fixed on self-tapping screws.

Beacons should be placed along one of the walls of the room so that the distance from the beacon to the wall is no more than 10 cm, and the step between them is a quarter less than the length of the rule. After placing on the floor surface, the profile must be leveled using a laser or building level according to the marks of the highest point of the floor. When leveling, the beacons are pressed closer to the floor or lifted with pieces of brick.

After the beacons are set, you need to check the evenness with the level again and, if necessary, correct it. It is recommended to divide a large room into several sections with solid beacons so that you can take a break during work. A solid beacon or barrier must be installed on the threshold of the room. Thermal insulation material should be laid between the beacons, and after the fastenings of the beacons have dried, you can start pouring the screed.

The cement-sand mixture is mixed in a concrete mixer or a construction mixer. To get a solid foundation, you must strictly follow the kneading sequence. Place 2 parts of water and 4 parts of perlite into the prepared container, mix all this very carefully until a homogeneous consistency. Then add 1 part water and 1 part cement, mix again. Finally, add 10 parts of water and 2 parts of sand and mix until a plastic consistency.

In the process of mixing, the consistency of the solution must be constantly monitored. If wet sand is used, the amount of water must be reduced. In its finished form, the solution should be easily smeared, and not spread, resembling dough in consistency. If necessary, plasticizers can be added to the mixture. Such a screed must be laid within an hour. Complete drying time takes 2-3 days.

Concrete mortar is denser than cement-sand, so mixing it with a construction mixer is much more difficult. If possible, it is better to rent a small concrete mixer. The simplest composition of sand and cement is done as follows: for 10 kg of a mixture of 3 parts of sand and 1 part of cement, add 2 liters of water and mix. To increase the strength per 100 kg of the mixture, 50 g of fiber can be added. It is necessary to use the solution within 1-1.5 hours, it will reach full solidification in 28 days.

How to align?

Starting from the wall farthest from the entrance, the solution is laid out between the beacons and leveled with a rule. It should be perfectly even, without notches and cracks on the working side. With light pressure, the mass must be pulled towards you, making leveling movements to the left and to the right. To remove air bubbles, the solution should be pierced with a shovel or a metal rod. You can use a special deep vibrator. They treat the surface until cement milk appears on it.

At the walls and in hard-to-reach places, the screed is leveled with a spatula. Work can be stopped only when the whole room or fenced off area is done. When the concrete has set and can support human weight (after about 12-20 hours), you need to remove all irregularities on the surface of the screed and beacons.

The technology of a dry floor screed device also includes a waterproofing layer, sizing a damper tape and installing beacons. Between the beacons, the selected dry mixture of materials is poured and leveled. More often than others, it is recommended to use expanded clay sand. Then the plates are mounted on screws with double thread and glue. As soon as the glue has dried, you can make a layer of self-leveling floor or immediately start laying the floor covering. Pour the remaining recesses with the same composition and level with a spatula.

Finishing fill

If the floor height differences are within 3 cm, you can start pouring with self-leveling liquid mixtures. The principles of the device of the finishing and rough self-leveling floor are identical, and the difference lies only in the thickness of the poured layer. To make the coating perfectly even, you need to be guided by the marks applied to the wall so that the mixture reaches them, but does not completely cover them.

On a surface with a large number of irregularities and drops, dowel-nails or special beacons-benchmarks can be installed as beacons.

Such beacons outwardly resemble tripods and are adjusted according to the building level. It is necessary to breed a self-leveling floor strictly according to the instructions. Also, the instructions indicate the minimum and maximum layer, which must be strictly adhered to. Water is poured into a specially prepared container and the mixture is gradually poured, which is stirred with a construction mixer at low speeds. Use the finished mixture within 15-20 minutes.

Filling the floor begins from the corner of the room farthest from the entrance. Leveling is done with a rake or spatula. Between pouring the strips, you need to withstand a period of time of no more than 10 minutes. Walking on the poured floor is possible only in paint shoes. Next, you need to remove the benchmark beacons and roll the entire surface with a spiked roller to remove all air bubbles.

There must be a barrier on the threshold of the room so that the mixture does not spill out of it. After seven days, you can start laying the flooring. The filled finish layer can be made an independent floor covering by adding coloring pigments or applying a pattern.

In this case, the surface after drying must be coated with a special varnish.

How to fix cracks?

In order to prevent cracks or other defects from appearing on the concrete screed during the drying process, it is necessary to carry out simple, but daily care for it during the first 7-10 days. To do this, the surface must be watered 2 times a day and covered with plastic wrap. If the room is hot, it is recommended to increase the regularity of watering up to 4 times a day.

If cracks and irregularities still appear on the surface of the screed, they can be removed with a grinder or filled with the same compound that was used to make the screed. Self-levelling mortars can also be used. To do this, apply a primer mixture to the floor surface, and after it dries, pour a thin layer of finishing fill.

If you have not had experience with screeding before, it is recommended that you first practice in a small area, such as a pantry. And even experienced professionals in this matter need helpers, so you need to start work with at least two people.

When choosing materials for the screed, you need to pay attention to the following points:

The color of the mixture should be gray, without extraneous inclusions of a dirty color. Most often, this happens with poor-quality mixtures, into which clay gets along with sand. A screed based on such material will quickly crack and become unusable;

In no case should you use mixtures in which PVA glue is indicated as a plasticizer;

Sand for screed must be sea;

If the concrete layer needs to be made thicker, it is recommended to add expanded clay to the solution. This will not affect the strength of the screed, and the load on the base and material consumption will become less.

Do not neglect the use of damper tape. This will not greatly affect the costs and will avoid deformations of the walls and floor. It is necessary to fasten such a tape not only on the walls, but also on columns and other structures with which the screed is in contact.

It is recommended to rinse the construction mixer after each use in the operating mode in a separate container with water. This will simplify the task of its further purification, and foreign inclusions will not get into the solutions.

To prevent cracking of the screed, expansion joints can be cut in it. The depth of such joints should be equal to 1/3 of the thickness of the concrete. Cutting is made on the seized, but not completely frozen concrete. After the screed is completely dry, the seams are filled with sealant. There are three types of seams:

Insulating. They are made at the joints of the concrete floor and other structures.

Structural. They are cut in the place of uneven hardening of concrete during breaks in pouring for more than 4 hours.

shrink. It is necessary in order to avoid possible deformation during shrinkage of the screed during the drying process.

To level the floor surface or form the base of the floor on the ground surface, a screed is performed. Depending on the type of surface, its condition, the need for heat and sound insulation or the placement of additional structures, the surface preparation process and the characteristics of the screed, as well as the choice of materials, differ. Having correctly chosen the technology and materials for yourself, it is quite simple to do the floor screed with your own hands. Now we will analyze all types of wet screed and how to form it in stages. You can learn how to form a dry screed.

Varieties of "wet" screeds

It is possible to divide the floor screed device into four main types according to the features of surface preparation, its type and the formation of the final screed layer:

1. Knitted. The most common option for an apartment, where the screed is made on top of the floor slabs.
2. With waterproofing layer. This type is necessary in the bathroom or in the kitchen, where the humidity is constantly high and there is a possibility of a large volume of water falling onto the floor. In this case, the screed layer is formed on top of the laid waterproofing material.
3. With a layer of thermal insulation. By default, a layer of thermal insulation is required when forming a screed over the ground. Also, if necessary, it can be used in apartments and houses for protection from the basement or other unheated premises.
4. With final filling. In this case, after the main screed is completed, a thin layer of liquid mortar is used, which independently forms a perfectly flat surface. This is necessary to level the floor under the laminate or linoleum, which are sensitive to any, even small, irregularities. It can also be formed using a more liquid solution, which, under the force of gravity, will independently distribute over the entire surface. However, it is not recommended to use only bulk floors separately without forming the main screed.

An example of a standard floor screed device:

How thick should the “correct” screed be?

In any case, you should decide on the total thickness of the screed and, specifically, with the use of cement or concrete screed, which must be formed on the floor. It all depends on the type of flooring or the required value of thermal insulation and strength. The limitation can be both the load of the screed on the floors, because it is the main technological part of the structure, and the resulting load on the screed itself. In case of erection of a new building, it is necessary to adhere to the instructions of the construction project. If you need to make a floor screed with your own hands instead of the old one, then you should observe the characteristics of the old one and improve it within acceptable standards by adding thermal insulation or installing underfloor heating if necessary.

The thickness of the solution layer can vary from 25 to 80 mm, but not less, otherwise the screed will subsequently turn out to be fragile and fragile.

At this stage, it is important to correctly calculate the amount of required materials. For a layer over 30 mm, it is better to use concrete based on sand, gravel, crushed stone, etc., only it can form such a thick layer and not crack. In any case, it is better to familiarize yourself with the phased implementation of the screed using all types for the most complete understanding of the process.

Stages of preparation for the main work

Basic surface preparation

The old screed is dismantled, especially if it already has cracks or damaged areas. Floor slabs are cleaned of dirt and dust and primed. The primer is poured directly onto the floor and leveled over the entire surface with a roller or brushes. After that, it will take up to 5 hours before the primer dries.

For soil bases, a layer of expanded clay or sand is formed on a base cleared of vegetation. Expanded clay is still subsequently also covered with a layer of sand. The thickness of the sand layer must be at least 10 cm. The entire surface is compacted. If necessary, the layers of the embankment are wetted with water for normal shrinkage. With the use of an expanded clay mound, an uneven floor screed will also be much cheaper and easier, because less mortar will be used.

At the same stage, installation and wiring of sewer drain pipes or water pipes is carried out if work is carried out in a bathroom or toilet. Subsequent layers of thermal insulation and waterproofing are laid bypassing all communications.

thermal insulation

To do this, use either a mound of expanded clay, or dense slabs of expanded polystyrene. The main thing is that the insulation is rigid. Expanded clay has slightly worse thermal and sound insulation parameters, but is more durable and reliable. In most cases, it is enough. To form a screed on the ground surface, insulation is mandatory. For floor slabs in the apartment - only if necessary.

Waterproofing

The waterproofing layer can be laid strips of thick film or roofing felt rolls. Strips of material are overlapped by about 10-15 cm and overlapping walls by 10 cm, including outgoing water pipes and sewer drains, if any. In the latter case, it is necessary to additionally lubricate the pipes and thermal insulation material with a sealant or mastic to a level higher than the solution will be poured. Waterproofing is necessary for areas such as the bathroom, toilet and kitchen. In other rooms, it can be formed only to protect the apartment on the ground floors from the cold and dampness of the basements.

Read more about waterproofing floors and walls using the example of a bathroom.

Reinforcement

The screed layer is reinforced with reinforcement only in cases of laying on the ground. It is carried out by forming a mesh from welded reinforcement or a special steel mesh. As an alternative, an additive in the form of fibrin, which is a fibrous material made of metal or plastic, can be added to the concrete or cement mortar.

Installation of additional equipment

If it is necessary to install a system of underfloor heating or distribute wiring, then this is done at this stage. All work is carried out taking into account technological features. Pipes for or heating elements for electric underfloor heating are laid and fixed.

Screed process

Arrangement of lighthouses

Examples of beacons placement (clickable)

In order for the concrete or cement floor screed to be even, a beacon system is used. These are special rail profiles that need to be distributed over the floor. In order to install the beacon rail, you should use the same solution that will subsequently form the screed itself. Stepping back from the wall by 20 cm, screws are screwed into the floor in a straight line parallel to the wall. The heads of the screws should end up in the same level. This can be checked using a manual or laser level. The height at which the caps are located must be lower than the resulting screed layer by 6 or 10 mm, depending on the height of the rails. The distance between the screws is best chosen within 60-80 cm, so that the beacons installed on them do not subsequently sag.

The next line with screws should be placed already at a distance of 1-1.5 m from the previous one (the distance should be slightly less than the length of the rule, which will level the layer of concrete or cement mortar). A solution is applied to the screws and a beacon rail is installed on top of it. Having finally set all the slats in the same plane in terms of level, it is necessary to wait until the solution on which they lie is completely seized and dried.

Beacons must be used in any case. Even if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room in which the work is done is very small, you should still strengthen at least two beacons, with which leveling will be done.

Video: a good way to arrange beacons

Preparation of mortar for screed

To do this, you can use ready-made mixtures for leveling the floor, which have recently appeared in large quantities on sale with various properties and features.. For their preparation, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the instructions for use.

For a conventional cement-sand screed, the proportions of cement and sand are 1: 3. For better strength, you can add a bag of tile adhesive mix. As a result, the resulting solution should not spread much, but should not be dry either.

It is best to order ready-made concrete, it will come out both more economically and better. Moreover, a concrete screed is justified only for private houses and the first floors of apartment buildings, so there should be no problems with delivery. It is rare that a thick layer of screed is required on the upper floors of a building over floor slabs.

Filling the floor

It is best if the entire process of pouring the floor in one room is completed in one go. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that the cement mortar sets in about 40-60 minutes, after which it will no longer be possible to level it normally, and even more so, water cannot be added to it. This will significantly affect the quality of the result.

The strip between the beacons on the far side of the door is filled first. Using the rule, the surface is leveled. In this case, the rule rests with its edges on the beacons and, with slight movements from side to side, is drawn along them. If necessary, a solution is added in places where it is not enough. Then you can fill in the following lanes between the beacons. After leveling the next section, a layer of mortar should be pierced with a wire in some places. This is necessary to release air that may have entered the mortar during spreading and leveling.

Only after a few hours, or even a day in the case of using a conventional cement-sand mortar, you can stand on the surface of the screed without much fear. It is best to use a sheet of chipboard or drywall to form a supporting island. At this time, you can remove the beacons from the screed layer and seal the resulting grooves with mortar. The surface in these places is leveled with a trowel or grout.

Video: an example of pouring a screed

Grinding

When concrete is used as a pouring material, it should be sanded after complete drying. This will help level the surface and prepare it for any floor covering. Leveling the concrete floor can only be done in places where irregularities are especially noticeable using a grinding wheel mounted on an angle grinder (grinder).

Actions for self-leveling floor

If you need a self-leveling floor, then in order to get a perfectly flat surface, you should form another surface layer of the solution. For this, either a sufficiently liquid cement-sand mortar is prepared in a ratio of 1: 2.5, or special mixtures are used. You can add a little starting putty to the cement-sand mortar.

Previously, the entire floor area must be additionally primed and moistened. The solution is poured over the entire surface of the room immediately and leveled with a mop or rule. Distributing it evenly to the floor, time is given for complete drying. At the same time, the solution, under the force of gravity and due to its fluidity, will independently acquire a perfectly flat surface.

Particular attention should be paid to the final leveling of the mortar under the walls, because in these places, if it does not dock with the wall surface, a small tubercle is formed, which subsequently dries up in a wave. An ideally flat surface is perfect for mounting floor coverings such as: linoleum, laminate, carpet, carpet tiles, etc., since small irregularities of the rough screed can show through them.

Points to Consider

• The surface of the screed will be completely ready for further work only a week or two after its formation. It will be a mistake to start subsequent work until the screed is completely dry.
• In no case should you speed up the drying process of the solution. After all, the main strength of concrete and cement mortar is not due to the evaporation of water, but due to cohesion and adhesion. On the contrary, if during the first day it seems that the surface is too dry, it is better to moisten it with a roller. It will take a whole month to completely dry the concrete or cement screed, during which the room should be protected from drafts and mechanical damage. But the result is a reliable and durable screed that can last the longest possible operational period. If such a long waiting time is not suitable for any reason, then it is better to pay attention to the formation of the screed in a semi-dry or dry way. The latter can be done in one day and immediately continue the formation of the finishing floor covering. It should only be borne in mind that a dry screed has a number of limitations and features in terms of operation and determination of places of use.
• In the event of drafts or excessive heating, the concrete may become covered with a network of small cracks. By their nature and due to the drying of the solution, starting from the lower layers, such cracks for the most part appear throughout the entire depth of the screed. As a result, this will affect the strength and moisture resistance of the layer and lead to its rapid destruction. If, nevertheless, cracks appear, they should be immediately moistened and rubbed with a solution. In order to protect yourself from the formation of cracks or any other damage to the surface of the screed, you can use specialized dry mixes instead of cement, which additionally contain special additives that give the concrete greater viscosity, strength and moisture resistance.

Video: do-it-yourself floor screed instructions

In order for the laminate or linoleum to lie perfectly even, the base for them should be made as smooth as possible, for which you need to study how the finishing professional flooring is done, the construction instructions for which are described in detail below. Why it is preferable to do it yourself is pretty obvious. After all, this will mean considerable savings in funds (which would otherwise be spent on paying for the work of the masters) and the acquisition of a fair amount of experience.

Of course, the process of filling the floor can be entrusted to specialists. But many tend to perform and control everything on their own. The first thing to do before you start work is to prepare all the necessary tools, as well as inventory, which are required by the floor screed technology in the apartment.

Required Tools

By priority of application, you will need: a hydraulic level, a pencil, a chopping thread, a tape measure. Also make sure that you have a cord, knitting wire, a clerical knife, wire cutters, a puncher and a screwdriver, a rule, a trowel and a grater, as well as a shovel at hand. Some of the work will be easier to do with rubber boots, which should be considered in advance.

It is logical that, without building materials, the screed can only be made dry, poured using the old-fashioned method of clay, which can be dug up behind the house, and then covered with shields. However, this is not the best way out, so we stock up on the necessary amount of cement and sand. We calculate the flow rate of the mixture by multiplying a square meter (in centimeters) by the height of the fill, using the standard volume formula. One share of the figure received is cement, for 50 kilograms of which 15 liters of water are required, and another 4 parts are sand. For elasticity, as a plasticizer for underfloor heating screed, 100-150 grams of liquid soap is added.

Add liquid soap for elasticity

And finally, the process itself. The role of the screed is not only to level the floor, it is necessary both to hide the underfloor heating pipes and to create an additional layer of insulation or sound insulation in combination with a hydrobarrier. There are different ones, and if you want to get a heat source by hiding pipes in the thickness of the cement, in this case a floating one will be used. Simply put, it will not lie on a rigid base of the ceiling, but on a rather soft layer of thermal insulation (we take expanded polystyrene plates with sufficient hardness), on top of which the pipes will be located.

The website site masters have prepared a special calculator for you. You can easily calculate the required amount of cement.

How to make a floor screed - a sequence of actions

The first and main process is the measurement of the premises, and not the purchase of building materials, because while you do not know the scope of work, you do not know how much cement or sand will be needed. There are many stages of work ahead, and only after taking the first step, you will know with what numbers to go for the screed components.

Master class floor screed - step by step diagram

Step 1: Defining the Horizon and Fill Level

When the preparation for the floor screed is completed, with the help of a hydraulic level we find the horizon at a height of 1.5 meters, and with a chopping thread covered with chalk, we make marking lines.

Then we measure the distance to the base with a tape measure and find the point farthest from it and closest to it, thereby determining the difference in levels in the room

Based on the measurements, you can calculate how to properly fill the floor screed, as well as the amount of materials that will be required for it. is 40 millimeters. We complete the marking work by transferring the markers down the corners to the fill level and beating the new lines with a thread, along which the new base surface will pass.

Step 2: Preparing the base

The next stage - preparing the floor for a screed, will not require much labor if it is planned to make a heating system in the room under the finish coating.

The role of the substrate in this case will be assigned to the insulation, separated from the floor slab by film waterproofing. A reinforcing mesh is laid on top, and on it are metal-plastic or propylene pipes bent according to a certain pattern (snake or spiral), fixed with special fasteners. If the underfloor heating screed for a film electric heater is planned to be poured directly onto the ceiling, it must be thoroughly cleaned and even washed.

Step 3: Installing beacons by level

Having achieved an acceptable state of the base or substrate from a heater with heating elements, it's time to move on to installing beacons, without which it is impossible to install a screed under a warm floor. To do this, we drive dowels into two opposing walls along the line of the future screed after 1-1.5 meters, to which we tie a cord (you can nylon).

Exactly along the strings stretched in the same plane, raising and lowering with the help of wooden wedges, we place parallel beacons from a metal profile 20x40 millimeters at regular intervals (two at a distance of half a meter from the walls).

They are necessary so that subsequently a screed under a warm floor is equal to them.

Step 4: Fixing the beacons and installing a thermal seam

Since in the process of laying the solution, the beacons can move and change their position in space, they should be carefully fixed. Holes are drilled in the ceiling, into which a pair of screws is screwed on both sides of the profile, at a short distance from each end of the pipe and in the middle.

Then the tie wire is wound around the screws so that the beacon is firmly fixed in place.

It remains only to make a thermal seam along the perimeter of the room, fixing the belt from the remnants of the insulation along the lower edge of the walls with liquid nails.

Step 5: Mixing the Mortar

So, beacons are placed around the room, the thermal seam is securely fixed, it's time to start making the floor screed. For the solution, we take 50-kilogram bags of cement grade 400, no less, sand is sold by weight or by cubic meters, for work it will need 4 times more. Accordingly, in a large container, which can serve as an old bath (it is better to use a compact mobile concrete mixer), we mix cement with sand in proportions of 1: 4; when the composition becomes homogeneous, add water. The consistency should be like thick sour cream.

When adding a plasticizer, care should be taken, an overdose leads to a slowdown in the hardening process of the composition.

Step 6: Fill and Level Rule

If you have prepared a water heating system in the form of pipes laid on a heater, laying a warm floor in a screed will not require any special technologies.

We make sure that a small portion of the solution, laid on a flat place, slightly floats, but does not spread like liquid, that is, it corresponds to the proper degree of density. Then we simply fill with the mixture the area between the wall, which is opposite the door, and the second beacon from it (the first one should hide under the solution).

Level the solution with a shovel.

We level the solution

Using the rule, we finally bring the mixture to the level of beacons.

Step 7: The Nuances of Leveling and Removing Voids

For those who are not confident in their abilities, it is advisable to watch in advance in the training video how to properly make a rough floor screed with your own hands, the video will also tell you a simple way to achieve the desired result without flaws.

For example, few beginners know that when working with the rule, it is desirable to level the solution so that it is slightly higher than the beacons, then after shrinkage it will become flush with them. In the presence of a heating system, it is possible to perform a floor screed without voids using an extremely simple method - it is enough to slightly support the reinforcing mesh so that the mixture covers it and the pipes from all sides.

Step 8: Rule Leveling After Curing

When the cement mortar covers the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, you have to work as a rule, walking directly on the liquid mixture, for which, in fact, you need to prepare rubber boots before laying the screed on the floor.

Then it remains only to wait for the fill to harden enough so that it can be moved around. As a rule, the drying time of the floor screed takes at least two weeks, during which you need to regularly moisten the surface with water every other day. After the cement has hardened, you should take the rule and scrape off the top layer to the beacons, collecting the excess in a bucket.

Step 9: Removing Beacons From Cured Cement

How the floor screed device is completed, the video will tell you best, but there is nothing complicated about it, and often only instructions are enough. After the surface has become smoother, and the beacons have appeared from under the mortar layer, we take a spatula and carefully cut through the thickness of the fill on both sides of the profiles.

Then we bite the binding wire with wire cutters and remove the pipes, tapping them with a hammer in the process to avoid lifting the stuck layers.

Pipe extraction surface

To do this, add a little fresh cement and water to the scraped mortar, which is placed in a bucket, mix thoroughly and fill the grooves from the profile pipes with the mixture.

When the remnants of the cement-sand mixture are removed, we only have to grout the floor screed.

It is done with a grater and water. We start from the far corner of the room, slightly wetting the filling with water and carefully smoothing the surface with a grater.

After the end of the "polishing", when the base takes the proper form that you wanted, cut off the excess of the thermal seam flush with the surface with a clerical knife, the rest will subsequently be hidden under the baseboards. Now the work is successfully completed, and you can move on to the next room.

This article will talk about how to do it yourself. To begin with, a description will be given of the classic, simplest cement screed with a thickness of six to thirty millimeters. Thicker ties are of a different type, which will be discussed later.

markup

So, the floor is ready. Most often there are concrete floors, and we will talk about them.

Now you need to take the level and find the highest point of the floor. There are different options here. If the screed is planned for the entire apartment, it would be better to take a hydraulic level, and even better - a laser level. But it happens that the surface differences between the rooms reach seven to eight centimeters and even more. In this case, it is worth considering: is it necessary to make the floor throughout the apartment in one plane?

On the one hand, it looks beautiful, on the other hand, it is an overrun of material and an extra load. In this case, it would be better to use a different way of leveling the floor - for example, crushed floors, or the same, but in each room - on a separate level. It will not look so beautiful, but it will not interfere much, and the differences are easily decorated with aluminum sills. In the end it looks ok.

water level

If you make a screed at different levels, then zero marks can be made with an ordinary level, or with a level built into the rule. At the zero mark, we will set up beacons.

The device of lighthouses

Almost everything is suitable as beacons, for example, a guide profile. But best of all, of course, are special T-shaped guides made specifically for such work. We do not recommend using a tree: it is not so easy to find a really even wooden block, and if it works out, there is a better use for it. T-shaped guides are set up “foot”, the level is selected so that the minimum thickness is not less than six millimeters, otherwise the screed will crumble.

T-shaped beacons

The process of placing beacons will take the most time, but the quality of all work depends on it. It looks something like this: beacons are laid out on the floor, forming several “cards” (this is how the gaps between the beacons are called). The width of the cards will depend on the width of the rule, which will pull the mixture. After that, with the help of a level, a single height is set for all beacons. To do this, use linings of various thicknesses, and by adding and removing these linings, achieve one plane. Linings need to be laid out in increments of no more than thirty centimeters, since at too large distances the rule will bend, and as a result, a depression will turn out on the plane.

Alignment of beacons by level

Beacons are fixed in piles of the same solution with which it is planned to carry out the screed. This is ideal. Usually, building alabaster, aka gypsum, is used. It must be diluted to the state of kefir and spilled on the lining. After that, dilute thicker and apply with a spatula on the hardened first layer. Given the fact that all these works are wet processes, we do not recommend using fiberboard, cardboard, etc. as linings, since such materials can deform under conditions of high humidity. Subsequently, this can lead to cracks and even to delamination of the screed from the floor, at least in some areas.

Screed

After the heaps harden, you can proceed to the arrangement of the floor screed. The floor is pre-wetted with a roller. Priming is desirable. Please note that the solution does not stick to a dry floor. Be sure to check the joints of the walls and floor, if necessary, fill with mounting foam. Otherwise, you will have to carry out two repairs - to yourself and to a neighbor below, both of which are at your expense.

Preferably primed thoroughly.

Making a solution

The solution can be prepared from ordinary cement with a grade of at least 400 and pure sand, in a ratio of one to three. It is desirable to mix the solution with a mixer and in a bucket. Let's explain. The fact is that when mixing the solution with a shovel, even with great effort it is difficult to obtain a good solution. It is likely that the resulting mass will appear to be quite homogeneous, but this does not guarantee that it will be homogeneous in composition. As a result, the screed will also be uneven - on the one hand there will be more sand, on the other - cement. As a result, the first sections will begin to crumble, the second will crack. We think that neither one nor the other is included in your repair plans.

30 liter bucket - ideal for kneading

Therefore, it would be better to spend more effort, but do everything right: pour sand and cement into a bucket with a volume of at least thirty liters and mix thoroughly (anything, so long as the color of the mixture is uniform). After that, pour water into another bucket at the rate of one and a half to two liters per ten kilograms of the mixture and pour the mixture into this bucket. Not vice versa, just pour the mixture into water. After that, mix the solution for five to six minutes. To do this, use either a drill with a mixing nozzle, or a hammer drill in drilling mode, with the same nozzle. It is desirable that the power of the perforator be at least seven hundred and fifty watts.

Keep the solution for five minutes, stir for a couple of minutes. After that, he is ready to go.

If you are reluctant to bother with the preparation of the solution, buy a ready-made mixture, since its price is not too high. Dilute in the same way as the mortar, omitting only the dry mixing step - the mixture is already sufficiently mixed at the factory.

It would be better to work together: one stirs the solution, the second makes a screed, the result is a continuous process.

Also, do not forget about which you can do yourself.

fill

The filling process is very simple. Knead several buckets of mortar and dump it near the wall opposite the door, calculating the amount so as to pull off about half a meter. After that, trim it with a trowel, take the rule and pull the solution towards you, drawing the rule along the beacons.

By the way, this is where the name of this procedure came from: “floor screed”, since the solution is pulled together and leveled at the level of the beacons. True, the word "pull" does not mean that you should pull the rule exclusively on yourself. When contracting, the rule should also move in the right-left direction, with an amplitude of about a centimeter or two. While you are pulling the first batch of solution, your partner must prepare the next, after which the process is repeated.

Leveling the mixture with a provil

A note in case you used a guide profile instead of beacons: after you finish work in this room, wait until the screed has hardened to some extent, then remove the profiles. When the screed hardness reaches such a degree that it will be possible to walk on it normally, mix a small portion of the mortar and close the gaps remaining from the profile. If it was beacons that you used, then you don’t need to remove them, leave them as they are.

A flat floor in an apartment is a rarity. Potholes, cracks and sags do not allow high-quality laying of linoleum, laying laminate or tiling the floor. If you want everything to be beautiful, you should think about floor screed.

1. Where to begin
2. What to consider
3. How to achieve a smooth and durable coating.

Level definition.

First of all, you need to find out how flat the floor is relative to the horizontal level. The tool you need for this is a tape measure and a level. If a laser level is available, it will be much easier to determine deviations. Now the main task is to determine the highest and lowest points of the floor.

Consider a situation where there is only a normal level. Since the floor in any room of the apartment is always connected to other rooms, such as a hallway, start measuring from the doorway. The doorway will become the base point. One end of the level is installed in the doorway, and the other goes deep into the apartment. It is worth noting that a longer level, in this case, is more convenient than a short one. If this is not available, then you can use a long and even object along with a level. For example, a reinforced UD profile or a metal pipe. Having set the level on the floor surface, determine whether there is a slope of the floor or not, and also in which direction.

Using the laser level, set it to the center of the room. Turn on to have a light bar appear on the wall. Lower the ruler of the tape measure so that zero is on the floor surface, and mark the reading of the ruler in the place where the laser beam hits it. Write them down. Rotating the level around its axis, repeat the same steps again at different points in the room. Compare readings to determine extremes.

It is necessary to make several such measurements, marking the peak points with a pencil. So you can determine the highest point of the apartment. If the threshold turned out to be the highest point, then you can proceed to the second stage - the installation of beacons. If the highest point is in one of the corners inside the room, then it is worth deciding what to do next.

There are two options:

1. Remove all the old screed to the base of the floor and fill in a new one, but already even. Then it can be adjusted to the floor level in the next room and make an imperceptible transition from one to another.
2. Pour the screed over the existing base. In this case, the floor height in this room will be higher than the floor level in other rooms of the apartment. This may be justified if later floor leveling is also planned in other rooms. However, it must be taken into account that the floor level in neighboring rooms may be even higher.

Installation of beacons in the apartment.

To install beacons, you will need plaster beacons or round metal pipes, a spatula, a level and a rule. Set the beacon to the desired height so that its surface is at the same height as the desired screed level. To do this, use wooden bars, broken tiles or other dense material at hand. The goal - along the entire length of the lighthouse should stand exactly, without sagging, so that its level corresponds to strictly horizontal. For any room in the apartment, at least two lighthouses are required.

Mix a small amount of cement-sand mortar. To make the beacons harden in the solution faster, you can add a little alabaster or building gypsum to it. The solution must be applied to the floor in several places along the length of the lighthouse, so that the lighthouse is immersed in it. However, the top plane of the beacon must remain visible. According to it, it will be necessary to lead the rule when the screed is poured. Leave the beacons alone until the solution is completely dry.

Determination of the volume of the screed in the apartment.

How much solution is required? To find out, find out the volume of the screed. Volume is the product of length, width and height. Therefore, you need to multiply the length of the room by the width, and then multiply the result by the height of the screed. It often happens that this height is different in different places in the room. For example, in one corner thirty millimeters, and in the other seventy. In this case, you need to determine the average height.

Let's say, in the far part of the room between the beacon and the base of the floor - 65 mm, and in the near - 38 mm. Then the average will be (65 + 38) / 2 = 52.5 mm.

Consider an example:

• The length of the room is three meters,
• width two. Screed height 5, 25 cm.
• Then the volume will be equal to 315 liters.

So many ties will be required. It should be noted that the screed consists of at least three components.

1. Sand,
2. cement,
3. water.

• The amount of sand corresponds to the volume of the screed, that is, 315 liters.
• Since sand weighs one and a half times more than water, 472.5 kg of sand will be required.
• Three times less cement, that is, 157.5 kg.

The amount of water may vary. It also depends on the moisture content of the sand. In order for the solution to be of high quality and convenient for work, it should not be too thick or liquid. The best option is like thick sour cream.

Floor screed in the apartment.

Now it's time for the screed itself. The prepared solution is poured onto the floor. With the help of a trowel, the mass is leveled on the surface, filling large voids. After that, as a rule, the mass is completely leveled. To do this, you need to pull the screed with a wide edge of the trapezoidal rule, directing it towards you. In this case, it is often necessary to move the rule from side to side in order to seal the screed to close small voids inside the mass. When pouring small areas, it is necessary to check whether there is enough solution everywhere. If not, then add it and level the surface with the rule again.

After 12-24 hours, when the screed dries, remove the sagging using the narrow edge of the rule. You can remove the beacons, and then fill the voids with a solution. With the help of a polystyrene foam grater, they can be sanded.

Over the next few days, the screed should be moistened with water, allowing it to soak. So the screed will gain strength and be durable.

Video floor screed in the apartment

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