Do-it-yourself sewer digging in a private house. Do-it-yourself sewerage scheme and device in a private house

Professionally designed and implemented living conditions in a private house are the basis for the level of comfort in living in it. The main role in this is played by the sewerage system.

Particularly stringent requirements are placed on an autonomous system for private homes.

When designing it, it is imperative to adhere to sanitary standards, take into account environmental requirements and comfort of use.

To do this, use an integrated approach to the sewerage device in a private house.

Projects of private houses, in most cases, are individual. The use of a general sewerage scheme without taking into account the specifics of the building can lead to disastrous consequences.

The first step in system planning is to draw up a general sewerage scheme.

Photo: general scheme of external sewage

It consists of an internal and external part of the project:

• For each point, you need to know how to connect it to a common drain system;

Photo: location of indoor plumbing fixtures

• selection of wastewater outlet– pressure or self-drainage systems. In most cases, self-draining is used, as it is much cheaper. But at the same time, much attention is paid to their diameters;

Photo: sewer pipe slope

• pipeline design. The maximum load is calculated for each point and the entire system as a whole. This is necessary to calculate the diameter of the pipelines in each section of the system.

Photo: scheme of pipes of internal sewerage in a private house
Photo: outdoor sewerage pipe scheme in a private house

Important! It is necessary to minimize the number of pipe turns to prevent clogging of the sewer.

• The location of the riser and the fan pipe in the house. Their function is to equalize the pressure in the pipes to prevent the appearance of a characteristic smell in the rooms;

Photo: location of the riser location of the fan pipe in the house

• outdoor sewerage. It is important to consider the method of eliminating waste water - connecting to a central sewer or designing an autonomous treatment system;

Photo: wastewater outlet

• are also taken into account environmental requirements to the state of the surrounding area.

With wells located near the house, according to the norms, it is impossible to make a drain pit with a natural watercourse into the soil.

Each of these stages is closely related to each other.

The volume of the drain tank directly depends on the number of plumbing fixtures and the maximum flow of wastewater from them.

Device in a private house

When creating an external sewerage project, it is necessary to take into account its inseparable connection with the internal piping.

The exit of the central pipe from the house is carried out from the basement. The depth of the outlet in the foundation should be below the maximum level of soil freezing (1 m).

Photo: sewer exit from the house

Drain well preparation. Its location depends on the type of storage wastewater system.

The dimensions of the pit must correspond to the selected system.

Calculation of the depth of the pipe inlet into the storage tank is carried out according to the following method: to the depth of the sewer outlet in the house, the length of the external main is summed up multiplied by a coefficient that depends on the diameter of the pipe.

For a diameter of 50 mm - 0.03; 110mm - 0.02; 160 - 0.008; 200 - 0.007 (according to SNiP 02.04.03-85).

h2=h1+l*k+g,

• h2- the estimated depth of the exit point in the storage well;
• h1- the depth of the exit of the sewer pipe from the house (1.4 m);
• l- distance from the foundation to the storage well (10 m);
• k- pipe slope coefficient (0.02);
• g- the natural slope of the surface. The difference between the entry and exit points according to the level of the slope of the site (0.3 m.).

h2=1.4+10*0.02+0.3=1.9 m.

According to the dimensions obtained, a trench is dug.

Photo: trench for sewer pipes

For the convenience of leveling the pipeline, the bottom is sprinkled with a small amount of sand.

Photo: laying pipes on a sand cushion

The connection of pipes starts from the exit from the house.

Photo: the beginning of the pipe connection

With a possible probability of deep freezing of the soil, the pipes are additionally insulated with insulating material.

Photo: pipe insulation

The final stage is to fill the pipes with sand to their upper level and bury the entire line with soil.

Photo: backfilling with sand

Internal sewerage device

When designing the internal wiring of the sewerage system in the house, the following is taken into account:

• location of drain points;
• riser;
• pipe exits.

Stages of work:

Drafting of pipelines.

Photo: drawing of laying pipes for internal sewage

Often, pipes with a diameter of 50 mm are used for laying pipes to the riser. The riser is made with a minimum pipe section of at least 100 mm.

This is necessary to properly stabilize the pressure in the system and prevent clogging at maximum load.

Laying of horizontal pipes is carried out with the same slope coefficient as for external sewage.

Photo: laying internal horizontal pipes
Photo: fan pipe for a two-story house

Often, to save space and material, the riser acts as a fan pipe.

When designing, it is necessary to provide for a uniform arrangement of revision channels to remove blockages. They are installed for each connection point of plumbing fixtures and at corner joints. Rotation angles must not exceed 45°.

Photo: revision wells for private sewage

• riser (fan pipe) - at least 100 mm;
• "dirty" drain points (toilet, bathroom) - 100 mm;
• sink - 50 mm.

Necessary materials and tools

The normal functioning of the sewerage system for a private house largely depends on the choice of pipe material.

Photo: plastic pipes for outdoor sewage

This is necessary to prevent their deformation when the soil is displaced or other external influences.

When choosing sewer pipes, you should pay attention to the following indicators:

• resistance to active biological media;
• convenience and reliability of connection;
• smooth inner surface that does not interfere with the free movement of waste masses.

The following tools are required for the installation of plastic sewer pipes:

1. scoring saw for plastic. It is needed to cut the pipe to the desired length;
2. knife. After trimming, it is necessary to remove the burrs and make a small bevel at the end for a better connection .;
3. spare sets of rubber seals for installation.

Photo: tool kit

Depending on the type of connection and the angle of rotation, the following accessories can be used:

• branch (elbow) - designed to turn the pipeline by 45 ° or 90 °. Their design includes sockets for connecting pipes on both sides;
• transition outlet. It has a connecting part only on one side;
• connecting fittings with 3 or 4 outlets. Are intended for realization of branching of pipes;
• transitional couplings. They are necessary for the transition of the pipeline from one diameter to another;
• inspection hatches for checking the condition and repairing pipe joints.

Overview of sewer types

Along with professional design and laying of the internal sewer pipeline, it is no less scrupulous to approach the issue of storage and disposal of wastewater.

Septic tanks

For multi-level wastewater treatment, septic tanks are used - underground structures designed for phased purification.

They are two or more containers in which gradual purification takes place, followed by the withdrawal of water into the filtration fields (septic tank without pumping) or into a storage tank.

Photo: septic tank without pumping

Solid particles settle in the first tank, which are subsequently removed using sewage trucks.

Under pressure, the liquid from the first container flows into the second.

At this stage, anaerobic (without oxygen) decomposition of biological substances occurs, as a result of which the remaining sediment is cleaned with a layer of sand or gravel.

Currently, there are factory models, for example, but you can make a similar treatment plant yourself.

Photo: Topas septic tank

An example is a sewerage device in a private house from barrels that are used as reservoirs.

Photo: septic tank from barrels

In doing so, the following limitations should be taken into account:

• wall thickness should not be less than 7 mm;
• the total volume of barrels should be at least 3 times the daily norm for draining water for the house;
• resistance to aggressive environments.

In addition to ready-made elements, it is also popular.

Photo: septic tank from the rings

Previously, a pit of estimated depth is prepared at the installation site, the bottom of which is poured with concrete mortar.

Photo: concrete bottom of a septic tank from rings

For the 2nd and 3rd tanks, it is not necessary to make a concrete cushion. The diameter of the pit should be 20-25 cm larger than the dimensions of the reinforced concrete rings.

Photo: the pit is larger than the diameter of the rings

After installation, the joints of the structures are sealed.

Photo: sealing a septic tank from rings

The connection between them is made using pipes, while a slight slope should be provided towards the next treatment tank.

Photo: connection between the rings of the septic tank

Sewer manholes are used for protection and safety.

Photo: hatches

Cesspool

With a small flow of water on the territory of a country house, it can be used as storage for wastewater.

Photo: cesspool

Important! According to existing requirements, the use of cesspools without a bottom is not allowed.

In practice, many neglect this. With a daily water consumption of less than 1 m³, cleaning in a pit without a bottom can occur with the help of soil.

But even in this case, there is a risk of contamination with harmful substances.

A cesspool with a bottom is a single-chamber septic tank, the design of which was discussed above.

A few facts against the use of cesspools:

• the impossibility of filtering large volumes;
• operation of a sealed structure provides for periodic pumping;
• you need a place for a sewage truck, coupled with additional costs;
• the possibility of an unpleasant odor.

For a house with permanent residence, the use of a cesspool is strongly discouraged.

Storm sewer

Storm sewer is designed to collect and drain rain and melt water. Its installation is relevant for areas with high rainfall rates in combination with a shallow depth of groundwater.

Photo: storm sewer

Technically, rainwater is directed to the point of discharge with the help of gutters and pipe systems - outside the territory of the site or into a storage tank.

Often, sewer tanks are used as storage.

The principles of creating storm sewers are as follows:

• design of drainage systems from the house with subsequent wiring on the site;
• calculation of the angles of inclination of the elements to prevent stagnation of water in the system;
• protection from external pollution - the use of pipes, gratings, etc.;
• ensuring the protection of the foundation of the house from the possible ingress of water from storm sewers.

With a professional approach, this type of rainwater drainage will not only fully fulfill its functions, but will also give the country house a new look.

Snip regulations

The design and calculations of sewerage systems are regulated by SNiPs (building codes and rules).

The following regulations are currently in use:

• SNiP 02.04.01-85 internal sewerage;
• SNiP 02.04.03-85 external sewerage.

The most important information from them has been given above.

It is worth noting that compliance with these standards is a mandatory factor when creating a sewerage project in a private house.

Device rules

Despite the individuality of each project to create an autonomous sewer system in a private house, there are a number of general mandatory rules.

For outdoor system:

• selection of the location of the drain well. For septic tanks with storage tanks and sealed cesspools, the distance from them to the residential building and to the water intake point is regulated. From the house to the well - at least 5 m, from the well to the water intake point - at least 20 m. With the option of connecting the central water supply, the distance can be reduced to 10 m;
• the material of the outer pipes must be resistant to external mechanical influences - soil pressure. When the formations are displaced, an uneven distribution of pressure on the surface of the pipe may occur. To avoid this, a metallized corrugated pipe is used;
• it is necessary to calculate the exact value of the angle of inclination of the pipe. In practice, 20-25% is added to the calculated parameters for each value of the pipe diameter. If the slope is insufficient, the drain fluid will remain in the pipe, which will lead to blockage;
• the depth of the pipeline should be below the freezing point by 0.3-.05 m. Otherwise, additional pipe insulation will be required, which still cannot guarantee the absence of damage due to temperature effects;
• Piping angles should be avoided when designing piping. They are a natural barrier to solid elements. When mounting, it is necessary to provide for the installation of an inspection hatch every 15-20 cm.

Is it worth it to buy plastic sewer wells for a summer residence, about this in the article:.

Do you have an unpleasant smell from the drain hole in your country house? Don't despair, live bacteria for cesspools will help solve the problem. .

How to clean a sewer pipe with a cable.

For internal system:

• the riser must be strictly vertical and not have turning elements;
• the section size of the riser for a one-story house with 1 bathroom can be from 50 to 110 mm, but at the same time, its diameter should not be less than the maximum diameter of the pipe connected to it. Often this is a pipe from the toilet (110 mm.);
• the connection of the toilet pipe to the riser must be straight, without intermediate connections, and its length is at least 1 m. For the entire line on the floor, the toilet connection point must be at the lowest level to prevent sewage from entering other plumbing fixtures;
• the planned diameter of the conducted pipes should not be less than the outlet nozzles at sanitary facilities. Ideally, they should match;
• to normalize pressure on large horizontal sections of pipe laying in their end part install an aerosol valve. Its mechanism allows air only into the system;
• at junctions of the pipeline and in rotary sections inspection hatches are mounted.

Sewer drainage systems are often the cornerstone in organizing a comfortable stay in the house.

To accomplish this task, the best way would be to attract specialists - narrow-profile companies.

Independent work on the organization of the sewerage system requires a lot of effort and practical skills.

Small errors at the settlement stage can result in a loss of time and money in the future.

A separate section of the design of engineering communications is the planning of the sewer system. Owners of cottages and country houses often have to independently draw up a diagram and install equipment, so it is simply necessary to know the nuances of organizing work.

The efficiency of the system largely depends on whether the sewerage system in a private house is properly installed - the internal pipe system and the equipment connected to them. For competent design, it is important to take into account everything: from the choice of components to the material for the manufacture of individual elements. And we will tell you how to do it right.

Unlike electric, gas, water supply systems, which are installed in accordance with documentation certified by certain authorities, it is allowed to equip sewers on their own land and in the house without permits.

However, one cannot do without a project, as it will insure against errors associated with violation of generally accepted requirements.

For example, one of the frequent violations is non-compliance with the boundaries of the sanitary zone when installing a drain pit. The supply and drain systems must not come into contact with each other.

An option for arranging communications in a private one-story house - external water supply and sewerage systems are located on opposite sides of the building

The internal wiring device is often associated with errors in the organization of ventilation, the wrong choice of pipe diameter or angle of inclination.

The construction of an axonometric scheme is usually done by specialists. They also make hydraulic calculations of the internal network and the highway located on the outside of the building. Now there is a more interesting option - creating a sewerage model in 3D format.

3D modeling programs allow you to create an accurate and complete project that simplifies the selection of pipes, fittings, fasteners, and installation methods as much as possible.

For a project, they turn to specialists when they want to reduce risks. But there is another option - to study sanitary and technical standards, get acquainted with the internal wiring diagrams, learn how to understand the quality of plumbing equipment and draw up a project on your own.

Placement of important system nodes

The peculiarity of autonomous sewage is that the principles of its arrangement depend on each component in the overall system.

For example, the criterion for choosing a storage tank for wastewater is not only the number of people living in the cottage, but also the number of connected sources for draining technical and domestic water - from the house, garage, bathhouse, summer kitchen.

Work planning and scheme selection

The installation of sewer pipes is usually carried out together with the installation of a water pipe, respectively, and it is better to design these two systems together.

If we summarize all the documents that make up the project and try to follow the rules, we get the following list:

1. General data - description and conditions for the installation of water supply and sanitation systems based on regulatory documents.
2. Explication of the premises (explanation to the diagram) indicating wet areas and the method of their waterproofing.
3. Calculation of volumes of water consumption and wastewater disposal, taking into account the norms.
4. Floor plan of the location of the water supply and axonometric diagram.
5. Floor plan of the sewer.
6. Specification - a listing of all constituent elements with an indication of the quantity or footage.

You can refuse to install additional ventilation equipment, but on condition that the private house is not higher than 2 floors, and the load on the sewer network is minimal.

If a lot of people live in the building, the number of bathrooms is more than 2, the effluents are discharged to the treatment plant, then the installation of a fan pipe is mandatory. Thanks to her, the atmosphere in the house will be healthy, and the water from the water seals will not disappear anywhere due to the pressure difference in the network.

Features of wiring in a multi-storey building

The number of risers due to the presence of the 2nd or 3rd floors does not increase, but the connection scheme becomes more complicated, since taps are present on all floors. For multi-storey buildings, there is a “code” set out in the SNiP documents.

It is not always possible to connect a country cottage to the village sewer system. But now there are various septic tanks for installation within your own estate. You can always put one of the options with your own hands and connect pipes from home plumbing to it. Just how to make a sewer in a private house so that it serves correctly and properly for many years. There are few rules for the design and installation of such an autonomous drainage system, but they must all be observed.

Types of sewer systems in private homes

The external street part of the sewerage of a country house can be arranged in the form of:

• sealed storage tank;
• septic tank (with one or more cameras);
• septic tank with infiltrator;
• biological stations with aerobic purification.

Plus, there are still cesspools, but they should only be used in summer cottages with small volumes of effluents. For the arrangement of sewage in a cottage with permanent residence of two or three people, you should choose only a full-fledged septic tank. Moreover, in some cases, a simple accumulator will be an ideal choice, and in others, a clean station with aerobic microorganisms.

Before buying a particular model, you need to carefully weigh everything. It is important here that the number of people living in the house, and the amount of wastewater in cubic meters per day, and the characteristics of the soil in the adjacent area.

Storage tank, hermetic container

It is customary to choose a storage tank at a high groundwater level (GWL). This airtight container is not afraid of rains and floods, sewage will come out of it only in an emergency. It is best to make such a drive from concrete rings or an iron tank. Comes out cheap and fast. The only drawback of this sewage option is the constant cost of calling a sewage truck every two to three weeks to pump out sewage.

Installation of a sewer storage tank

Single chamber septic tank

A single-chamber septic tank is a slightly improved classic cesspool in the form of a well with a drainage bottom. The purification of wastewater in it occurs due to the passage of water from the internal sewerage of a private house through several layers of gravel and sand. It is not necessary to call vacuum trucks here, but it will be necessary to clean and wash the gravel-sand drainage twice a year. Such an option to make money comes out inexpensively, but it can only cope with a small amount of sewage (suitable only for families of a couple of people).

What is the difference between a single-chamber and a two-chamber septic tank

Two-chamber septic tank with overflow settling wells

A septic tank with two or three chambers is a design of several overflow wells. The first (and the second for sludge, if any) is made airtight, and the last, on the contrary, comes with drainage at the bottom. Such a sewage system is able to clean sufficiently large volumes of effluents from a private house and does not require special attention. However, if the groundwater is highly located, then such a septic structure will have to be abandoned.

The device of a two-chamber septic tank

Septic tank with filtration field

If the GWL is high and the cottage is large, then a septic tank with a filtration field or an infiltrator can be mounted to clean the sewerage. In this case, the drainage of water into the soil also occurs through a sand and gravel filter. However, here it is located not at the bottom of a narrow vertical well, but on a “field” located far from the foundation of the house in the form of drainage pipes or a large infiltration structure.

Filtration field device options

Septic tank with biofilter

An anaerobic septic tank with a biofilter for money will cost more than the options listed above. However, it is more efficient and productive. Plus, the water after cleaning it can be used to water the garden or wash the car. Such a station is made at the factory from plastic or fiberglass and is divided into compartments inside. Effluent gradually flows into it through several chambers, one of which contains special organic-eating bacteria. The result is 90–95% purified water at the outlet.

Septic tank with biofilter

Septic tank with forced air supply

An aerobic septic tank (an active biological treatment station) is the maximum in terms of productivity and efficiency, which is among autonomous sewer systems for a private house. Wastewater treatment here is carried out by aerobic microorganisms that need a constant supply of oxygen. This is done using an electric pump, such a septic tank is volatile. But on the other hand, the rate of “eating” organic matter by bacteria is high, and the degree of purification fluctuates around 98–99%. A serious minus is the high cost of the station.

The device and principle of operation of a septic tank with forced ventilation

How to choose a sewer system for your home

For a country house with temporary residence, a cesspool, a small storage tank or a single-chamber septic tank with soil drainage is quite enough. But for a private house in which a large family constantly lives, a more powerful treatment plant is required. The best choice here would be an aerobic or anaerobic station.

pad

Regardless of the option chosen, the installation of the outer part of the local sewer system can almost always be done independently. It is enough to dig a hole, and then install a ready-made septic tank inside or build it there from brick or concrete.

Where to begin

Counting and thinking about how to make a sewer in your cottage is most correct not even during the construction of a dwelling, but even at the design stage. It is necessary to provide technological openings for pipes in the ceilings, walls and foundation of the building in advance. In an already built house, this is much more difficult to do. Here, as the replacement of electrical wiring or the installation of a ventilation system, it is better to calculate and recalculate everything in advance.

A simple diagram of a septic tank in a private house

How to calculate the volume of a septic tank

The calculation of the internal volume of the septic tank is made by the number of plumbing fixtures and the sum of their actual drains. But to simplify the sewerage in a private house, it is customary to plan based on 150–200 l / day of wastewater for each person permanently residing in it.

Paving depth

If a septic tank for arranging sewage is chosen with soil drainage, then it should be taken as far away from the cottage as possible. Otherwise, moisture leaving the soil will negatively affect its foundation. At a minimum, this distance should be 5 m, but in this case it is better to increase it to 8–10 m.

But if a sealed container or biostation is chosen, then the sewerage installation rules allow them to be located closer than five meters from the building. At the same time, the depth of digging in the treatment plant and sewer pipes from the building should be such that they do not freeze in winter.

System design

Designing an internal sewage system in the cottage itself is also quite simple. Difficulties can arise only if the house is built on several floors and with a lot of plumbing. For ordinary low-rise housing of 100-150 square meters, everything can be designed independently. It's no more difficult than choosing or an emergency gas generator. It is only necessary to comply with the relevant building codes.

Tilt rules

All horizontal sections of sewerage in a private house should be made at a slope of three (for pipes D = 50 mm) and two degrees (at D = 110 mm) in the direction of the flow of effluents. It is no longer possible to tilt pipelines, as water will flow through them too quickly, leaving feces and solid waste inside. And with a smaller slope, the sewage, on the contrary, will stagnate in the outlets, not reaching the central riser.

Internal piping

The internal sewage system consists of:

• horizontal outlet (pipes to the septic tank);
• vertical riser with a vent at the top;
• horizontal outlets to each plumbing fixture.

For laying the outlet, riser and branch from it to the toilet, pipes with a diameter of 100–120 mm should be selected, for other sections 40–50 mm will be enough. The easiest way is to make sewer pipelines from plastic products connected to a socket with a rubber cuff for tightness.

Installation of sewer pipes in the house

Riser installation

The connection of the outlets to the vertical pipe is made by means of tees, and turning it to the outlet is done by a bend with a smooth bend. In general, the installation of the sewerage of a private house begins with the installation of a riser, assembled from the bottom up and strictly vertically. It is attached to the wall with clamps with a distance between the fasteners of a maximum of 2 meters. To pass it through the interfloor ceilings, metal sleeves are used a couple of centimeters wider than the pipeline itself.

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Do-it-yourself internal sewerage in a private house: regulatory requirements and practical recommendations

Normative documents

These building rules are an updated version of an older document - SNiP 2.04.01-85.

Let's get acquainted with the main requirements of the joint venture related to private construction. Let me comment on some points based on my own experience:

• To divert wastewater to the general sewer, closed gravity pipelines should be used;

Sometimes the terrain forces the use of fecal pumps.
In this case, the pump must be installed in a buffer tank that allows the sewerage system to operate for a limited time in the absence of power supply.

• Pipes are laid in a straight line, without bends. The direction of the gasket can only be changed with the help of fittings;

This fully applies to pipes made of cast iron, PVC and polypropylene.
Polyethylene allows gasket with some bend (up to about 10 angular degrees).
It retains elasticity even at low temperatures, so that cracks and destruction of pipes can not be feared.

• The laying slope must be constant;

This instruction is due to the fact that when the slope changes, the solid fractions of the effluents will linger in areas where it is minimal.
As a result, the likelihood of blockages will increase.

• To connect a horizontal section with a riser, it is strongly recommended to use oblique crosses and corners. An exception is crosses, the branches of which are located in two different planes;

This will greatly simplify cleaning in case of blockage.
A cable or wire, resting against the opposite wall of a straight tee, can fold or move in the opposite direction to the blockage.
The oblique tee will direct the cleaning tool in the direction of the drains.

• Two baths on the same floor can be connected to a common riser only through an oblique cross;

This is necessary so that during a volley discharge of water from one bath, water does not flow into another.
If the tubing is not tightly connected, overflowing the sewer is fraught with flooding of the bathroom.

• For sewage, it is recommended to use pipes and fittings with a service life of at least 25 years and hydraulic characteristics unchanged throughout the entire service life. Polymer pipes (PVC, polypropylene, polyethylene, etc.) are preferred;
• In the basement, internal sewerage is laid openly. In residential premises, it is allowed to be embedded in the floor, walls, boxes and shafts;

If possible, pipes should be left available for inspection and repair. In my practice, there were blockages that could be cleared only by cutting out a section of the riser.
The most typical case is a large shard of thick glass that has stood upright between the walls of a cast-iron pipe.

• The place where the risers pass through the ceiling is sealed with cement mortar for its entire thickness;

In a wooden floor, mounting foam is used for the same purpose.
The goal is to reduce the propagation of sounds between floors, including through the sewer pipe itself, which under certain conditions serves as an excellent resonator.

• It is not allowed to seal pipes in the ceilings of living rooms and kitchens;
• The internal sewerage scheme in a private house should include ventilation risers (fan pipes) that are connected to the top points of the system. The fan pipe is displayed 20 cm above the roof at a distance of at least 4 meters from the nearest opening window. In this case, the exhaust part of the riser should not be thinner than its waste part;

• Installation of deflectors on the fan pipe is prohibited;

With all due respect to the authors of the joint venture, this requirement is not always worth fulfilling.
The deflector will really limit the draft in calm weather, but it will protect the sewer from wind-borne debris and prevent precipitation from falling into it in a downpour.
For cesspool owners who pay for waste disposal, the latter is quite important.

• On the operated roof, the exhaust riser rises above its level by at least three meters;
• The device of the house sewerage should provide for the possibility of its mechanical cleaning in case of blockages. For this purpose, revisions or tees with plugs are provided. In a private house, they are located at the bottom and top of each riser, at the beginning of each straight section with three or more plumbing fixtures, as well as at corners;

• On long straight sections, revisions or tees for cleaning are located in increments depending on the diameter of the pipeline:

Diameter, mm	Step, m
50	8-12
100 — 150	10-15

• If the level of the sides of the plumbing fixture is below the hatch of the nearest yard sewer well (for example, when located in the basement or basement), the corresponding sewer section is equipped with a sewer gate or an automatic fecal pump;
• All hydraulic devices are equipped with water locks that prevent sewer gases from entering the premises;

Connections of elbows and siphons with sewerage are carefully sealed with rubber sealing sleeves. Otherwise, gases will enter the room through the sockets.

• Several washbasins (up to 6 pieces) and several shower cabins or trays can be equipped with a common siphon with a diameter of 50 m, equipped with a revision or a hatch (cover) for cleaning;
• The recommended installation height of plumbing fixtures in the general case (in the absence of people with limited mobility in the family) is:

Practice

Diameters

For bathtubs, washbasins, sinks, shower cabins, urinals, washing machines and dishwashers, the diameter of the connected sewage system is 50 mm. For toilet bowls - 110 mm.

These diameters are sufficient for any reasonable number of plumbing fixtures connected in parallel to the sewer, including two bathtubs in one room, subject to simultaneous volley discharge.

Noise

The sound of water flowing in the pipes will hardly give you much pleasure. A number of simple recommendations will help to avoid it.

• If possible, lay horizontal sewer sections in the underground, basement or behind false walls. Risers are best placed in technical or utility rooms;

• Where the riser passes through the dwelling, cover it with a box of drywall or wall panels. It is desirable to fill the box with sound-absorbing material (as a rule, mineral wool is used in this capacity); as an option, the riser can be wrapped with foamed roll insulation;
• Instead of thin-walled PVC or polypropylene pipes, it is desirable to use polyethylene pipes or the so-called silent sewer. Thanks to the mineral filler and the variable density of the layers, it effectively absorbs acoustic vibrations. The price of such pipes, however, is 2-4 times higher than that of conventional PVC, in addition, some manufacturers use their own diameter system that is incompatible with conventional vinyl fittings;
• To fix the riser, use sound-absorbing clamps. equipped with foam rubber gaskets.

Mounting

How to assemble a sewer from plastic pipes with your own hands? Here are the basic installation rules:

• The pipeline is laid with a constant slope of 2 cm / m for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm and 3.5 cm / m for a diameter of 50 mm. Any counter slope will become a place of constant blockages: it will collect silt and fat deposits;
• The fixing points of the horizontal pipe should be separated from each other by no more than 8 - 10 pipe diameters. If you increase the step between the clamps, loose sections will sag in a year or two, forming sections with a counterslope;
• Vertical pipes are fastened with clamps under the necks of the sockets. Such a mount will not allow them to move under their own weight.

Pipe sockets and fittings must be directed against the direction of flow of drains. In this case, there will be a minimum number of irregularities inside the pipe, for which large-sized debris (paper, rags, etc.) that has fallen into it can catch on.

The pipe is easiest to cut with a grinder. Any abrasive wheel can be used for cutting. When working indoors, remember to protect your lungs with a gauze bandage: breathing plastic dust is below average pleasure.

After cutting, be sure to clean the inside of the pipe from burrs and chamfer the outside. The burrs will collect sewage-borne hair, fabric fibers, and other debris. The chamfer will greatly facilitate the assembly of the connection.

If the pipe enters the socket with great force, lubricate it with liquid soap or any other water-based lubricant. Do not use engine oil or other fuels for lubrication: they will cause the seals to crack.

With hidden laying (in boxes and false walls), it is better to assemble the joints on silicone sealant. Even if the seals lose their elasticity, it will not allow the socket to leak.

Ventilation

It is really necessary. Instead of lengthy discussions about the movement of sewer gases in pipes, I will simply share my own experience.

During the construction of the second floor, I brought the sewer to the septic tank without installation, based on the fact that with a system height of only 4 meters, there will be no significant draft in it. In addition, all connections of plumbing fixtures with sockets were carefully sealed.

It was not there: after some time, a characteristic sewer smell appeared in the attic toilet. As it turned out, the following happened:

1. When flushing in the toilet, the flow of water rushed down the riser, at some point blocking the entire lumen of the pipe;
2. The rarefaction arising at the same time in the upper part of the riser sucked water out of the bath siphon, disrupting the operation of the water seal;
3. The lack of water in the siphon opened the way for the aromas of the septic tank to the bathroom.

The problem was quite predictably solved by installing a vent pipe at the top of the sewer.

Heating

In regions with a warm climate, open laying of sewerage sites is often practiced. So, in the Crimea, with its average January temperature of + 3C, you can often find sewer pipes laid between the house and the well along the surface of the soil. The laying of pipes providing runoff from the second floor is also practiced along the facade.

Having looked at other people's buildings, I also laid a section of the internal sewerage system up to the septic tank along the facade: I didn’t want to spoil the ceiling and the repaired first floor with a riser.

Alas, there are frosts in the warm climate zone. In the very first winter, the operation of the in-house sewerage system showed that it was impossible to do without insulation at all: already at -10C, the drains began to freeze.

The problem was solved by installing a self-regulating. It is a conductive matrix that increases resistance when heated and decreases when cooled. As a result, the lower the temperature, the greater the heat transfer, the more the pipe on which the cable is fixed heats up.

Installation was done like this:

• The cable is glued to the bottom of the pipe with aluminum tape. Reflecting infrared radiation, it significantly reduces untargeted heat loss;
• Since aluminum tape is extremely fragile, the cable had to be additionally fixed with polyethylene ties.

Several turns of cable are also used to heat the open septic tank.
The main requirement for laying is that the termination and heat shrink between the cable and the cold end must be left outside the drain tank.
They are aggressive and destroy the heat shrink tube in a year or two of operation, but the vinyl insulation of the cable perfectly tolerates prolonged contact with a chemically active environment.

Conclusion

As you can see, sewer installation is not extremely difficult. You can learn more about it by watching the video in this article. Please share your own experience in the comments. Good luck, comrades!

July 14, 2016

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Sewerage in a private house is necessary if you live there permanently, and it is highly desirable if you bring there only the summer months. I will help you understand the basic schemes of sewer systems, and together we will analyze the algorithm for performing key stages of work.

sewerage scheme

Sewerage for a private house is an essential condition for a comfortable stay. You can use the street and garbage pit only temporarily. Sooner or later, the question of creating an integrated system is understood.

Before you make a sewer in a private house, you need to decide on its configuration. The easiest way to do this is sequentially:

1. Analysis of existing communications. If the settlement has a centralized sewer network, then the work is simplified by an order of magnitude. We just need to get to the collector pipe and connect to it.

To connect to a common collector, you need permission from the local administration, and it is better to entrust the work itself to specialists. But in any case, it will be much cheaper than making a sewer tank yourself.

1. Determining the type of tank. Here we have only two options: a septic tank or a cesspool. It is more difficult and expensive to make a septic tank, but it rarely needs to be pumped out, a cesspool is the opposite. The optimal choice is a septic tank combined with a biological treatment plant, but high cost acts as a limiting factor.

1. Choosing a location for the tank. In this matter, one must be guided by the current regulations, which determine the minimum distance from a pit or septic tank to various objects. It is advisable to find a point in the lower part of the terrain (less digging) at a distance of at least 10 m from the house and at least 15 m from the well / well.
2. Room allocation. The sewerage of a private house should tie together all the water drain points. It is worth collecting them as close to each other as possible, so we determine where the bathroom will be located. It is advisable to place it near the outer wall, on the side of the house where the tank will be - this way we will spend less effort and money on laying pipes.

1. Advance planning. Based on the information received, we build a plan for the entire system and preliminarily calculate how much and what materials we will need. According to the calculations, we plan the budget (immediately put in it an excess of 30%) and evaluate whether the project will be “elevating”.

If the preliminary stage is completed successfully, you can proceed to procurement and preliminary work.

Materials for creating an autonomous sewer

An independent sewerage device in a private household is a rather resource-intensive project. What is the minimum material required for its implementation?

The main items of expenditure are reflected in the table:

Illustration	Structural element
	Ready septic. The optimal solution for an autonomous sewer system is the installation of an industrial septic tank (Tank, Triton and analogues). Such products are equipped with multi-chamber tanks of sufficient volume and all the necessary devices for primary wastewater treatment, so we just have to install them. Main disadvantage- high price.
	Plastic container for a septic tank. As a reservoir, you can use a plastic (polyethylene, polypropylene) tank for waste accumulation. You can also purchase the so-called "Eurocube". Plus- complete tightness of the system. Minus- rather high cost and the need to install additional cleaning devices.
	concrete rings. If saving money is a priority when creating a sewer system, then tanks for the accumulation and treatment of wastewater can be made from standard concrete rings. Flaw- the need to additionally seal the containers and the complexity of installation. Perhaps, it is impossible to do without attracting a crane.
	Pipes for external sewerage. To connect the cesspool or septic tank to the house, special external pipes (orange color) are used. They tolerate temperature extremes well and do not deform even under significant pressure when laying at a depth.
	Pipes and fittings for internal sewerage. The internal sewer wiring is formed from polypropylene (gray) pipes with a diameter of 110 to 40 mm. Together with pipes, it is advisable to purchase the required number of fittings for making turns, bends, revisions, etc.
	Pipe thermal insulation. When laying the outer part of the network, as well as when installing communications in unheated premises (basement, basement), there is a risk of pipes freezing. To avoid this, it is desirable to insulate the sewer system using casings made of mineral wool, polyethylene foam, polyurethane foam, etc.

In addition to the basic materials that are used directly to create the system, additional ones will be needed:

• gravel and sand for excavation and laying of the drainage layer;
• cement mortar;
• sealant based on moisture-resistant silicone;
• revision wells - if you need to lay a long or winding pipeline.

outdoor work

Stage 1. Principle of operation and calculation of the volume of the septic tank

Installation of sewerage in a private house includes two types of work:

• outdoor- consist in the construction of a reservoir (cesspool or septic tank) and laying a pipe to the house;
• domestic- involve the installation of pipe wiring in the house and the connection of water consumption points to it.

If possible, then these works are performed in parallel, if not, then you need to start with the device of the outer part.

The most effective design for autonomous sewerage of a private house is a septic tank. Unlike a cesspool, it does not accumulate wastewater, but provides for their processing. The output is relatively pure water, which is filtered into the soil, polluting it with organic matter at a minimum level.

The septic tank works quite simply:

1. settling. First, wastewater enters the first tank - a sump. It separates wastewater into fractions: solid particles precipitate (silt), light organic matter floats on the surface, and a clarified liquid collects in the middle part. Here, bacterial decomposition of waste occurs with the release of gaseous reaction products and the mineralization of residues.

1. overflow. An overflow hole is made in the wall of the first container, which is located at the filling level. Through the overflow pipe, clarified water flows from the sump into the second chamber, and solid residues are retained.
2. Filtration. In the second chamber (filtration or drain well), clarified effluents pass through the drainage layer at the bottom. Drainage retains another part of the pollution, because almost pure water enters the soil.

Almost all septic tanks work according to this principle - both home-made and factory ones. The difference lies in the design of the tanks, as well as in their number. Sometimes a septic tank has not two, but three chambers - then another tank is added between the sump and the filtration tank for more efficient cleaning.

Before you arrange a septic tank, you need to calculate its optimal volume.

The calculation of the volume of a septic tank is carried out according to the formula:

V = n * Q * 3 / 1000, where

• V- the desired volume of the septic tank in cubic meters;
• n- the number of people permanently residing in the house;
• Q- rate of water consumption per person, liters per day;
• 3 - average duration of wastewater treatment, days.

If we take 200 liters approved in SNiP as the consumption rate, then, for example, for 4 people, the volume will be as follows:

V \u003d 4 * 200 * 3 / 1000 \u003d 2.4 m3.

Stage 2. Installation and equipment of the sewer tank

Now let's figure out how to properly make a sewer in a private house. The algorithm of work on the installation of a septic tank in the table:

Illustration	Stage of work
	Digging a pit. In the selected place, we apply markings to the site, after which we dig a pit for the installation of tanks. We select the dimensions of the pit with a margin - so that a layer of backfill and waterproofing / drainage can be laid on the bottom, and a clay castle can be made on the sides. For septic tanks of a small volume, the pit is dug manually; for large-scale structures, it is better to use the services of an excavator.
	Foundation preparation. We level the bottom of the pit, after which we lay a sand bed up to 20 cm thick. We ram the bed. Under the installation site of the sump (the first tank), you can pre-lay a waterproofing cushion made of clay or a concrete disk, the diameter of which will correspond to the diameter of the well.
	Installation of containers. We lower concrete rings to the bottom of the pit, from which we form two wells. We seal the joints between the rings in order to prevent the ingress of untreated drains into the ground.
	Tank bottom device. We make the lower part of the sump tight by pouring a layer of concrete up to 10 cm thick. Additionally, you can treat the base with bituminous mastic and lay waterproofing roll material. We fill the bottom of the filtration well with drainage: pebbles, gravel, broken ceramic bricks, etc. You can also make holes in the lower ring of this tank or use a special perforated blank made of reinforced concrete.
	Overflow design. We connect both tanks with an overflow pipe, which we insert into holes at a distance of about 1.5 m from the bottom. In order to prevent organic waste from getting into the filtration tank from the sump, we install a T-shaped fitting on the pipe. Due to the presence of a lower branch pipe, such a fitting allows you to make a selection of clarified liquid under the surface film of organic matter. The installation sites of the overflow pipe are carefully sealed.
	Cover and necklines. Floor slabs with holes for hatches are installed on the wells. If the septic tank is located deep, then necks can be additionally used - narrower rings that provide access for cleaning, revision and repair.
	Ventilation and hatches. We build a ventilation pipe into the ceiling. It is desirable to make it higher - so the unpleasant smell will disappear faster. We cover wells or separately brought out necks with hatches of a suitable diameter, fixing them with cement mortar.

If the septic tank is below the groundwater level, then it is advisable to seal it from the outside using roofing material or bituminous mastic. Also, laying a dense layer of clay around the perimeter of the tanks, the so-called clay castle, will help prevent moisture from seeping into the chambers.

Stage 3. Laying pipes from the tank to the house

The next element of the external sewage system is a pipe connecting the tank to the house. Wastewater will flow through it to the treatment/storage facility.

Pipe laying technology:

Illustration	Operation in progress
	Digging and preparing trenches. Between the house and the septic tank, we dig a trench with a depth of 50 cm to 1.5 m (the deeper the soil freezes in winter, the more you have to dig). For the most efficient flow, we form a slope towards the septic tank of about 2 cm per 1 m. We lay a sandy bedding up to 15 cm at the bottom. We moisten the bedding and ram.
	Pipe laying. In the trench we lay a pipe for draining waste. The optimal pipe diameter for the outer part of the sewer system is 110 or 160 mm.
	Pipe insulation. If the septic tank is located relatively shallow, and the pipe cannot be buried more than 1 m, the circuit requires additional insulation. To do this, we wrap it with roll material based on glass wool or mineral fiber, or use cylindrical casings of a suitable diameter.
	Entering a septic tank. We can see one end of the pipe into the septic tank through a hole in the concrete wall of the well. As with the installation of the overflow, we carefully seal the hole.
	Entering the house. The entrance to the house can be decorated in different ways, but most often the pipe is wound through a hole in the basement or foundation. It is desirable to insert a metal sleeve into the hole, which will protect the sewer from damage during movements and subsidence. Also, the input node should be insulated.

After completing these works, we fill up all the trenches and pits completely, and then we lay fertile soil or a layer of turf on top of the backfill.

It is also advisable to make marks on the wall of the house at the entrance. These marks will be needed when we look for exactly where the sewer pipes are laid.

How to make sewer wiring

Stage 4. Basic elements of the internal network

The next stage is the arrangement of internal sewage. Its configuration directly depends on where the sources of waste are located, so here I will describe its main elements:

1. Riser- central vertical pipe, large diameter (minimum 110 mm), which combines all the circuits together. As a rule, one riser is made in a private house, but in large buildings there may be several. In the lower part, through the knee, it is connected to the outlet sewer pipe.
2. fan pipe- mounted in the upper part of the riser, serves to remove gases accumulating in the pipes from the system to the external environment. It is discharged into a separate ventilation shaft or connected to a ventilation pipe located above the roof level.

Without a drain pipe, the pressure in the system will increase, which can lead to incorrect operation of the valves. In addition, the accumulated gases cause unpleasant odors.

1. Main branches- pipelines with a diameter of about 50 mm (2 inches). Used to connect plumbing fixtures and other sources of drain to the riser. Since the local sewage system is usually made gravity-flowing (i.e., working without additional pressure), the pipes are laid with a slope towards the drain. For two-inch pipes, the optimal slope is about 3 cm per 1 m.
2. supply pipes- used to connect the outlets of plumbing fixtures with highways. The diameter of such a pipe cannot be larger than the diameter of the line.

1. Revisions- special fittings, which are a tee with one outlet, equipped with a closing hatch. The audit is placed at the base of the riser, at turns, branches and at the ends of highways. It provides access to the inside of the pipeline to remove blockages or preventive maintenance.

Stage 5. Pipe connection

All pipes are interconnected using fittings that allow you to make turns, branches, branches, etc. When installing the system, it is desirable to avoid turns at sharp and right angles, forming smooth arcs - this way we will reduce the risk of blockages in the place where the flow rate decreases.

Typical modern pipes, equipped with sockets and elastic cuffs, are easy to assemble with your own hands :

Illustration	Mounting operation
	Pipe cutting. Using a hacksaw with fine teeth, cut the smooth end of the pipe to the desired size.
	Chamfer removal. We clean the trimming place, removing burrs from the outer inner side - they can cause blockage.
	Trumpet preparation. We insert a rubber sealing ring into the socket. We level the sealant, laying it in the groove and making sure that there are no bends or creases.
	Pipe connection. We insert the nozzle into the socket and push it in until it stops. If necessary, turn the pipe so that the outlet or revision hole is in the desired position.

After assembly, all pipes are installed on bearing surfaces. The instruction allows both hidden (in strobes or behind the skin) and open gaskets. In the second case, plastic clamps with a latch or screw fixation are used to fasten the pipes.

Stage 6. Connecting to plumbing fixtures

At the last stage, the plumbing equipment is connected:

1. Toilet- usually installed in the immediate vicinity of the riser. The outlet of the toilet bowl is connected by a corrugation or a piece of pipe either with a riser outlet or with a short line with a diameter of at least 110 mm.

1. Bathtub or shower- are connected to the sewerage by means of compact siphons which are placed under drain openings. The optimum diameter of the outlet pipe is at least 50 mm.

Some models of shower cabins and toilets require a vertical sewerage supply - this must be taken into account in advance when designing the system.

1. Sinks in the kitchen and bathroom- are built into the system using siphons with water seals. The siphon is usually bulb-shaped and placed under the sink, and it is connected to the sewer outlet with a flexible corrugated pipe.
2. Washing machines and dishwashers- also mounted using flexible corrugated hoses. To connect such devices, it is necessary to install a separate outlet of the sewer pipe, equipped with a socket with a rubber sealing cuff.

Conclusion

The installation technology of the sewage system includes a number of nuances that directly affect the final result. Now you know them too. You can clearly get acquainted with the intricacies of the topic in the video in this article. You can get answers to any questions you have in the comments to this material.