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Kuznetsov oven: step by step instructions for making. Kuznetsov's fireplace stove: drawings, photos, ordering

Igor Viktorovich Kuznetsov is a well-known Russian engineer-inventor who has been developing new models of furnaces and their constant improvement since 1962. During this considerable time, more than 150 different models have appeared, which have been comprehensively tested in practice and have earned the widest demand from owners of private houses. The designs of this inventor are distinguished not only by their effective work on heating residential buildings, but also by the ability to give the interior of the premises comfort and originality.

To build Kuznetsov's furnaces with your own hands, the ordering of which, I must say, is quite complicated, not so simple. However, if you want to save a decent amount, as well as if you have certain skills and the ability to read the relevant diagrams, this is quite possible. Therefore, if you decide to perform these works on your own, you need not only to choose a suitable design, but also very carefully study its order and recommendations for masonry.

Design features of I.V. Kuznetsova

Judging by the design features of heating devices, the engineer set himself two goals in carrying out his developments - these are the efficiency and productivity of furnaces. That is why the inventor pays great attention to the location of the internal channels of the furnace, through which there is an intensive movement of combustion products along with the air heated in the furnace. Working on designs, the master in each of his models tries to achieve a longer retention of the heated gas mass inside the furnace structure, which helps to save fuel while maintaining heat for a long time.

Such characteristics correspond to stoves called "bell-type", that is, having special chambers for retaining heat. Usually, Kuznetsov's designs have two "caps" - the lower one, combined with the combustion chamber, and located in the upper part of the furnace. The principle of operation of the lower "cap" is to separate the exhaust gases into hot and cold. So, the products of combustion, rising to the ceiling of the hood, linger and accumulate heat, while in many designs the heated air does not encounter any special obstacles to exit into the chimney.

The principle of operation of two "caps"

In the upper "cap" gases are also retained, because the exit from it is located at its base. Thus, before entering the chimney, hot gas flows rise to the ceiling, heating the entire chamber.

Thanks to such a system, the internal temperature of the furnace is significantly increased and maintained for a long time, which gives a high efficiency of the heater, reaching up to 95%. The difference can be seen if we compare this parameter, for example, with the efficiency of a Russian traditional stove, which, alas, is only 45÷50%.

In addition to the rational movement of air, valves installed in the right places also contribute to the conservation of thermal energy, which can also delay or redirect the movement of gases as necessary. These elements are also able to regulate the circulation of heat. So, when the “summer” stroke valve is opened, the stove will be set only for cooking, because the heated air will go into the chimney along the path of least resistance, heating only the firebox and the hob, without getting into the upper bell part of the structure.

Such a furnace can operate in two modes: "summer" and "winter"

Thanks to such a working system of furnaces, a number of advantages of the designs developed by I.V. Kuznetsov:

The heating of the furnace and the release of heat occur naturally and evenly.
It becomes possible to allocate more space for installing a heating element - a hob.
Combustion is carried out without the formation of soot and smoke, as there is an almost complete destruction of combustion products.
Heat losses are kept to a minimum.
Due to the uniform heating of the structure, there is almost no deformation of the masonry and the formation of cracks in the seams.
Such an internal design allows you to create various shapes of ovens and with a variety of design designs.
In addition, the furnaces developed by I.V. Kuznetsov, can be equipped with a water circuit or a built-in heating tank, which will provide hot water supply in the house or even water heating of other rooms.

When using the principle of operation of such a stove design, it becomes possible to create various household stoves, depending on their purpose:

Heating type of furnace, designed only for efficient heating of a residential one-story or two-story building.
Cooking ovens designed mainly for high-quality and fast cooking.
Sauna stove options - for efficient heating of sauna rooms.
Outdoor stove-barbecue complexes, with a grill and smokehouses.
Fireplace stoves, which are intended not only for basic heating, but also to create a cozy atmosphere and an aesthetically attractive interior in the house.
If desired, you can create multifunctional stove options, including heating, cooking and aesthetic functions.

How to fold the oven I.V. Kuznetsova

The construction of a real brick oven is always a rather laborious and complex process that requires certain knowledge, technological skills, and possession of certain secrets of craftsmanship. Therefore, in order to get a high-quality heating device, you need to gain some experience in this work in advance. Masters who have been doing this, without exaggeration, art for a long time, advise novice stove-makers to make a preliminary one before major masonry - without mortar, that is, dry.

The construction of any brick oven is a rather complicated and time-consuming process.

In addition, if the first oven is laid out, you should not experiment, trying to add your innovations to the already drawn up order. In this case, it is recommended to strictly adhere to the chosen scheme and carry it out without any deviations. Therefore, you should immediately decide on the functions that the furnace should perform. Since, I.V. Kuznetsov developed and compiled more than 150 orders of structures, from which you can always choose the appropriate option.

If the construction of the stove is planned at the stage of building a house, then its installation should be designed in such a way that it heats two or even three rooms at once.

It is more difficult to build stoves into an already built house, since you will have to make accurate calculations to remove part of the wall. In this case, wall-mounted options are usually chosen, but they are able to heat only one room with high quality. However, if desired, it is possible to solve any problem, of course, taking into account the location of the floor beams and load-bearing walls.

It is important to protect combustible surfaces from overheating, therefore, if the stove is installed in a wooden structure, then at the junctions of the walls of the house and the stove it is necessary to make gaskets from non-combustible material, such as asbestos.

In addition, at the joints of structures, gaps filled with such material are also necessary for the free expansion of brickwork when it is heated, otherwise the mortar in the joints may become cracked, and the furnace structure itself may undergo deformation.

It is very important to arrange a high-quality foundation for the design of the furnace. It is usually made of concrete with waterproofing. The foundation of the furnace should not be connected to the foundation of the main structure, since they will shrink differently, and should not “pull” each other along.

The linear dimensions of the concrete foundation must be greater than the dimensions of the furnace base, by at least 100 mm on each side of the structure. The deepening of the foundation is calculated depending on the massiveness of the furnace structure and the composition of the soil on which the construction is carried out. On average, the depth of the foundation pit to be torn off for the foundation varies from 400 to 600 mm, and a waterproofing sand cushion and a reinforcing layer of crushed stone are necessarily laid out at the bottom. Well, the side walls are formed by installing wooden formwork.

The process of arranging the foundation is quite laborious, however, it must be carried out in full and with high quality, since the accuracy and durability of the entire furnace structure will depend on its reliability and even surface. You should never rush into construction - the poured concrete base must be given at least a month to fully mature and harden.

Moving on to further work, when laying the furnace, the following points must be taken into account:

Before starting the laying of the first row, one or two layers of waterproofing material are laid on the foundation - roofing material, which is further recommended to be marked with chalk according to the size of the furnace base. This will make it easier to lay the first row.

If the laying is planned from red brick, then it is recommended to overlay the combustion chamber with refractory fireclay material. It keeps heat longer and is resistant to high temperatures.
It is very important to observe thermal gaps of 5 mm between fireclay and red bricks - their coefficient of linear expansion varies significantly, and the material must be allowed to expand freely when heated.
It is recommended, after raising each next two rows, to reinforce the furnace wall with wire, which is laid in the seam along the entire length of the row.
Cast iron and steel elements that will come into contact with open fire are wrapped around the perimeter with asbestos rope or fragments cut from a single sheet. This material will not only protect the metal from burning through, but also create the necessary gap for thermal expansion.
The folded furnace is subjected to prolonged drying before operation. To do this, all doors and valves are opened for free air circulation in all departments of the structure. Drying is often done by installing an ordinary incandescent light bulb with a power of 200 ÷ 400 W in the furnace. The heat given off by the light bulb and the through movement of air created from this will contribute to a faster drying of the structure.
A dried-out furnace is first heated with a small amount of fuel, the flame from which will harden the walls of the combustion chamber with fire.
If it is planned to carry out the exterior decoration of the building, then it should be done after at least one season of operation of the heater, when the folded stove will shrink almost completely.

You may be interested in information about what is

Ordinal scheme and materials for construction

The order is called the scheme that is developed for each furnace. This graphic plan shows in detail the configuration and quantity of materials for each row. Before starting work, it is necessary to carefully understand the ordinal scheme, and if it is not clear, then you should seek clarification from a specialist. As a rule, it is quite simple to understand the ordering drawings for a “technically savvy” person, especially since a detailed description is usually attached to them.

The ordinal diagram should look something like this. The best option is if the ordering scheme contains several more options for the sections of the furnace - this will help to see the internal structure of the structure and greatly facilitate the work.

In different departments of furnaces, both whole bricks and hewn or chipped bricks into several equal parts can be used. In some cases, the brick can even be divided into 8 parts, and ⅛, ⅜, ¼ bricks, etc. are used to form some sections of the furnace. The use of these parts is always indicated on the ordinal diagram.

In addition, you need to know that in some bricks it will be necessary to make cutouts for installing metal elements, such as a hob or valve. In some cases, you will have to chop or cut the brick at a certain angle, which is also shown in the order.

Each specific model requires a certain amount of material, which can be calculated independently based on the order, or the list is attached to it in a ready-made form.

For the construction of any furnace, you will need to purchase the following materials:

For the internal laying of the firebox, it is recommended to prepare fireclay bricks (ША-8). If it is not available, then you can replace it with another refractory brick.
For the main masonry of the building, you will need an ordinary ceramic brick with a strength grade of at least M150.
The solution will require one or two types of clay, one of which should be distinguished by refractoriness and plasticity. This material will require 100 ÷ 150 kilograms, depending on the massiveness of the structure.
In addition to clay, sifted sand is required for the solution. Its volume should exceed the amount of clay by 2÷2.5 times. In total, for a masonry consisting of 500 bricks, it is necessary to prepare 0.2 cubic meters. m. clay-sand mixture. However, many modern stove builders have already managed to evaluate ready-made masonry mixtures for stoves, which can be purchased at a specialized store.
Metal and cast iron elements of the structure are selected for each model individually. The amount of wire for reinforcing the rows will also depend on the choice of furnace model and its perimeter.

Prices for ceramic bricks of strength grade M150

ceramic brick m150

Detailed ordering of the heating and cooking furnace Kuznetsov OVIK-9

The heating and cooking furnace presented below is designed on the basis of the OVIK-9 model developed by engineer V.I. Kuznetsov. The only difference between these structures is the mutual arrangement of the furnace and blower doors, but otherwise the structures are completely identical.

This version of the stove is designed for both home heating and cooking, so it is quite suitable for installation in any suburban private houses.

For cooking, the model has a cooking chamber with a two-burner stove and lockable metal doors. It is equipped with its own exhaust duct with a valve, with which you can regulate the temperature inside the closed niche. Due to the fact that the chamber can be completely closed, it can serve as an oven, so brackets for installing baking sheets are often embedded in its walls.

If you need the fastest heating of the premises, the cabinet doors are left open, but in this case, you can cook on the hob itself.

The stove has a two-bell design, so it can operate in two modes - "summer" and "winter", that is, it can be flooded only for cooking in summer or heating the house and cooking in winter.

The depth of the fuel chamber is 450÷470 mm and has a "dry" seam for free expansion of the material when heated. If desired, the dimensions of the combustion chamber can be increased to 510 ÷ 530 mm - for this, the back wall of the furnace will need to be laid out not in half a brick, as indicated in the order, but in a quarter of a brick. However, in this case, it is not recommended to use a “dry” joint, as the wall will be unstable, and the bricks in it may be displaced when laying firewood.

Such a stove has dimensions of 1015 × 630 × 2100 mm, has a heat output of 3600 W, subject to two-time heating. It is quite capable of heating a room or adjacent rooms with an area of 30 ÷ 35 m².

Necessary materials

For the construction of this heating structure, the following materials will be required (excluding the construction of the pipe and the arrangement of the foundation):

red brick - 430 pcs.;
fireclay refractory bricks (SHA-8) for the furnace - 22 pcs.;
furnace door (DT-3) 210 × 250 mm - 1 pc.;
blower door (WPC) 140 × 250 mm - 1 pc.;
grate 250 × 252 mm - 1 pc.;
two-burner cast-iron hob 586 × 336 mm - 1 pc.;
cooking chamber doors 510 × 340 mm - 2 pcs.;
latch for the cooking chamber 130 × 130 mm - 1 pc.;
valve of the "summer" mode of operation 130 × 130 mm - 1 pc.;
chimney valve 130 × 250 mm - 1 pc.;
steel corner 36 × 36 × 4 × 600 mm - 4 pcs.;
steel strip 40×4×600 mm - 1 piece;
steel sheet 600 × 550 × 3 mm - 1 pc.;
steel pre-furnace sheet 500 × 700 × 3 mm - 1 pc. It can be replaced by another heat-resistant material such as ceramic tiles.

Prices for fireclay refractory bricks (ША-8)

Fireclay refractory brick sha-8

The process of building a furnace

Illustration with the order of laying the furnace	Brief description of masonry operations
	The first row is completely solid, as it is the basis of the rest of the order, so it must be laid out with exact observance of the horizontal masonry and with ideally drawn right angles. The diagram shows standard dimensions, and they can be slightly changed, since the parameters of the brick and the thickness of the joints between them may vary slightly. As a rule, the thickness of the joints is usually taken at 5 mm, but it should be noted that the laying angles of the remaining rows must ideally match the base. Therefore, they must be measured using a building corner, and then compare the dimensions of the diagonals of the resulting rectangle - they must be equal to each other. This row will require 20 red bricks.
	On the second row, the formation of the blower chamber and the lower hood of the furnace begins. Since the base of the cap will need to be cleaned after the completion of the masonry, two halves of the brick are installed, which protrude outward from the general row. During cleaning, these elements are removed from the wall, which allows this process to be carried out without problems. When laying the second row, these bricks are not fixed to the mortar - this will be done after the furnace is fully erected and cleared of fallen mortar and other construction debris. On the same row, a blower door is installed, which can be temporarily supported with stacks of bricks for stability. This row uses 14 red bricks.
	The third row is laid out according to the scheme. In the process of laying it, the blower door is tightly fixed on it.
	The fourth row is partially laid out from fireclay refractory bricks - the side and rear walls of the fuel chamber are formed from it. The door of the blower chamber is covered with two red bricks, which are released above it and are hemmed obliquely. In the same way, two hewn refractory bricks are laid on the back side of the blower door. A thermal gap of 5 mm is left between the red and fireclay bricks. To fulfill this condition, the craftsmen use a little trick, and instead of mortar, they lay ordinary packing corrugated cardboard between these types of bricks, which has the desired thickness. After it burns out, a perfectly even thermal gap remains. Such gaps should also be provided in subsequent rows, where red and fireclay bricks are joined. For this row, you need to prepare 11½ red and 3½ fireclay bricks.
	The fourth row continues. After laying the side bricks above the blower door, the middle of the door is covered with fireclay and ceramic bricks, hewn on the sides on both sides, such a masonry system is called a “castle”. This will require 1 red and 1 fireclay brick.
	On the fifth row, a fuel chamber is formed. The fireclay brick, installed on the front wall of the firebox, is cut obliquely. The space inside the firebox between the fireclay bricks must correspond to the size of the grate, since it must freely fit into the rectangle formed by the bricks, onto the bricks of the lower 4th row protruding by 10÷15 mm. At the same time, a thermal gap of 5 mm must be left between the side walls of refractory bricks and the grate, which will allow the metal to expand when heated without problems. In the space behind the furnace, where the lower hood of the furnace is located, a separate vertical channel is formed, having a size of half a brick. This channel will connect the lower and upper hoods of the furnace. The number of bricks used in this row is 12 ½ red and 4 fireclay.
	On the fifth row, without mortar, a grate is laid on the protruding bricks of the 4th row. Five-millimeter gaps between the brick and the grate are covered with sand.
	Sixth row. At this stage, the fuel door is installed. Between the walls of its frame and the bricks adjacent to it, there should be a gap of 5 mm, which is filled with non-combustible material. To do this, most often the frame is wrapped with a rope or pieces of asbestos. For laying this row, it is necessary to prepare 12 red and 3 fireclay bricks.
	Seventh row. When laying the back wall of the fuel chamber in this row, a gap of 20 ÷ 30 mm is left on the left edge of the brick - this will be a “dry” seam. It is necessary to remove non-combustible gases from the furnace and create conditions for a more intense burning of the flame. This row will require 12 red and 3 fireclay bricks.
	Eighth row. Masonry is carried out strictly according to the scheme using 12 red and 3 fireclay bricks.
	Ninth row. The walls of the combustion chamber are removed, and a passage is formed between it and the lower hood for the removal of combustion products. The side fireclay walls of the firebox should be 10 mm lower than the rest of the row (in the diagram, these walls are highlighted in lilac). Chamotte and red bricks laid above the furnace door move slightly to cover part of its frame. Previously, these bricks are hemmed obliquely and in the same way they form a kind of “bowl” into which the central brick will fit. For a row, 12 red and 2½ fireclay bricks are used.
	On the ninth row, between the front side bricks above the door, a central brick overlapping the frame of the furnace door is laid, previously hewn obliquely on both sides at the same angle as the side ones, forming a “bowl”. The left side wall of the fireclay brick firebox is covered with an asbestos strip 10 mm thick, which will equalize this side with the height of the entire row.
	Tenth row. On this row, red bricks are laid dry, that is, without mortar, on fireclay bricks covered with asbestos. In the red brick framing the firebox, a small cutout is made, approximately 10 mm in size, on which the hob will be laid. Moreover, between the plate and the walls of the brick on all sides there must be a gap for the expansion of the metal when it is heated, with a size of 5 mm. Refractory bricks installed on the front and right side of the fuel chamber are cut obliquely - they are shown in orange in the diagram. At the same time, it is imperative to ensure that there is a gap of 10 mm between the fireclay bricks and the hob. This row will require 14½ red and 1½ fireclay bricks.
	After completing the previous work on laying out the 10th row, an asbestos rope impregnated with clay mortar is distributed over the cutouts in the laid bricks. A hob is laid on top of the asbestos layer. The gaps between the slab and the bricks are covered with sand. If a panel is purchased that has stiffeners on the reverse side, then additional cutouts are made under them. The hob must lie only on its edges, but not on the stiffeners, and be "drowned" relative to the surface of the entire row by 5 mm.
	11th row. From this row, the walls of the cooking chamber begin to form and a frame with doors is installed. Moreover, it must be borne in mind that a five-millimeter gap must be observed between the metal frame and the bricks. To make it easier to form it, it is recommended to wrap the frame with asbestos rope. For the 11th row, 11 red bricks are required.
	The 12th row is laid out according to the scheme, and 11 red bricks are used for it.
	13th row. The formation of the cooking chamber and vertical side channels continues.
	14th row - work is proceeding strictly according to this scheme.
	The 15th row is placed in two stages. In the first step, the walls of the cooking chamber and vertical channels rise to the level of the metal frame of the doors.
	Next, you need to arrange the overlap of the cooking chamber. To do this, a steel sheet 600 × 550 mm is laid on the masonry of the 15th row, in which a cutout is made for the exhaust channel. A metal sheet is necessary so that the ceiling of the cooking chamber is cleaner, and during cooking, various debris in the form of mortar from masonry joints does not fall on top of the food. For rigidity, four metal corners and a steel strip are installed on top of the sheet.
	16th row. A red brick is laid on the metal corners and the strip - the order is shown in the diagram. Only the openings of the vertical channels are left open. Before laying, on the bricks framing the near vertical and exhaust ducts, cuts are made for the installation of chimney dampers. The valves will ensure the "summer" operation of the furnace and, if necessary, the tightness of the cooking chamber. Cutouts are made in such a way that a gap of 5 mm remains between the brickwork and the valve. In this row, the masonry consists of 20 red bricks.
	On the 16th row, two valves are installed on prepared sites with cutouts.
	On the 17th row, the brewing chamber and installed valves are covered with red brick, so that the chimney channels remain open. For masonry, you need to prepare 19 red bricks.
	On the 18th row, the upper cap of the structure is being formed. To do this, two half-bricks are installed dry, which rise above the main masonry - they are necessary to clean the base of the cap. These bricks are fixed to the mortar after the laying of the furnace is completed and the base has been cleaned of mortar and debris. For a row, 13½ red bricks are used.
	The 19th row is laid according to the scheme using 12½ red bricks.
	The 20th row is also laid out according to the scheme and it will require 13½ red bricks
	21st row. Masonry is carried out according to the presented scheme, and 14 bricks are used for it.
	Further, a rather long section of the building is laid out according to a single scheme, only with alternating even and odd rows. 22nd, 24th and 26th rows. The work is carried out according to the same scheme, the rows consist of 14 bricks.
	The 23rd and 25th rows are also laid out according to the general scheme and also consist of 14 bricks.
	27th row. In this case, 14 bricks are also used, but the configuration of their arrangement is somewhat different from the previous rows, as they prepare the basis for subsequent almost continuous rows.
	On the 28th row, cuts are made in the bricks framing the chimney channel for installing the main chimney valve. In the diagram, the places of cutouts, to a depth of 10 mm, are highlighted in lilac. When making cutouts, you need to periodically try on the valve itself, since it should be at a distance of 5 mm from the brick walls, that is, it should freely enter the cut gap.
	On the same row, the valve itself is installed in the cutout on the solution.
	For the 29th row, 19 red bricks will be required, since the surface of the structure is almost completely covered. Only the chimney opening with the damper already installed remains open.
	The 30th row again covers almost the entire surface. It also requires 19 bricks.
	31st row - the base of the extension pipe is laid with a section of the chimney opening, the size of one brick. Consists of a row of 5 bricks.
	Next, the chimney itself is formed. For each of the rows, when laying it out, you will also need 5 red bricks.

Detailed instructions and these diagrams will help you raise this rather compact furnace model on your own. To make it look more elegant and neat, it is recommended to buy rounded curly bricks for laying corners or process them yourself. So, in addition to accuracy, the oven will also acquire greater safety. This is especially important to foresee in cases where there are small children in the house.

Kuznetsov's furnaces are very popular both in Russia and in the world. Kuznetsov has been working on the creation of a perfect stove since the 60s, over the long years of work he has gained many like-minded people. A team of craftsmen made a lot of developments and filled the oven market with their products.

For many years, various inventors have been trying to make furnaces with maximum efficiency, since their main task is to work effectively with minimal costs. Surely there are many people who want to make a sauna stove on their own, and this is possible. Today, the topic is more relevant than ever, since heating prices have become very high. Bell-type stoves can heat a house well and quickly, and they also have an interesting appearance.

The Kuznetsov horse is gas flow design. It was created so that the heat could stay in the middle of the hood for a longer time, and so that the cold air currents would escape through a special recess.

Thanks to hot air currents for a long time keep warm in the room, and cold air does not cool the brick, leaving through the pipe. very high, and the efficiency of the Kuznetsov furnace will be be 95%, among this is a very good indicator, since the well-known Russian sauna stove has an efficiency of only 40%.

Advantages

The bell-type furnace has a simple device and consists of a lower level and a firebox, which are combined into a bell, the main component of such a furnace for a bath - this is an order:

it heats up evenly also gives off heat;
it needs to be cleaned very rarely, since there is no soot and smoke;
heat is practically not dissipated, since the furnace has a high efficiency;
the design is modern and original.

Read also: Installation in a bath stove with a remote firebox

To make a sauna stove on your own, you should strictly adhere to the manufacturing technology, do everything clearly according to the drawing, and also use high-quality material.

Kinds

The master came up with a wide variety of stoves that differ not only in appearance, but also the purpose:

heating;
for cooking;
for a bath;
street, barbecue type;
ovens with sun beds.

When you decide on the option of the sauna stove that you want to make at home, then, first of all, you will need to make drawings for ordering. Ordering is a way of laying bricks, and each row lays down differently. The collection of order resembles a constructor, if you make an effort and spend a little time, then everyone can handle it.

Sauna oven

The sauna stove can heat three rooms at the same time. This is a steam room, a sink and a rest room. Also, the sauna stove performs the function of ventilation, and can create steam different parameters. It can regulate humidity and temperature, with its use the space quickly heats up and autonomously maintains the required temperature. Properly done ordering will provide an impeccable result.

Besides, she can generate electricity. And if you make a stove with a fireplace, then it will be possible to cook food on coals. People who use the sauna stove have confirmed that it can do both wet and steam in the sauna. You can make such a Kuznetsov oven without difficulty following the drawing.

Materials you will need

Since the Kuznetsov furnace is much smaller than standard heating units, much less material will be required for its design:

fire-clay;
cleaned sand;
metal wire;
iron corner;
valve and blower;
grate;
hearth plate.

To clean the sand, it must be sieved with a fine sieve. It is recommended to use mountain sand, as there is practically no debris in its composition. In order not to overwork and save time, you can use a ready-made mixture of clay and sand, which is easy to find in hardware stores.

The refractory brick must be brand SHB-8 or SHB-5, and facing for masonry - not lower than grade M150. To find out how many bricks you need, you need to use the drawings.

We make the foundation

Well, when the stove is made during the construction of the house, then the foundation for it can be done immediately. It should be borne in mind that the foundation should be 10 centimeters larger than the furnace around the entire perimeter. The foundation must be made strong design is heavy.

What to look for:

The foundation of the house should not be the same as the stove foundation.
If the stove should stand near the wall, then the foundation should have a distance of at least 5 cm from the main one, while the distance should be filled with sand.
High-quality waterproofing will not interfere with the foundation. To make it, the bottom layer in the pit is covered with sand, and the dried foundation is covered with roofing material.
If possible, it is necessary to make reinforcement; for this, a metal frame is used.

The foundation is made on the same level as the main one; if necessary, a brick can be added.

How to make bricklaying and firebox

The furnace must be made of refractory bricks, and the outer walls of the furnace must be made of facing bricks. Then during heating and cooling they will behave differently. The firebox should be floating, for this it is worth making a dry seam around it. If this is not done, the bricks during operation may break. When working, you should pay attention to the order, because if you tie the bricks incorrectly, the necessary result will not work.

To make a dry joint, the masonry mortar is removed between the inner and outer bricks, and the resulting cavity is filled with mineral cardboard. Be sure to ensure that the protrusions of the refractory bricks do not fall into the recesses of the ceramic, this will make the firebox a completely independent structure. fireclay brick put on the edge, and ceramic - as you like.

Strengthening the structure with wire

Every third row should be laid with metal wire, this is a small but necessary detail that will make the structure reliable. Iron components must be inserted into the masonry with a gap of 0.5 cm, and fill the resulting void with refractory wool.

Building a good brick oven is hard work, skill and art. And this art, and traditions, and principles were passed down from generation to generation. I.V. Kuznetsov not only follows traditions, but develops them and looks for new ways to solve an old problem that is very relevant today: how to get the maximum furnace performance using a minimum of fuel.

Operating principle

Kuznetsov proposed a new principle for building brick ovens. In all previously invented / designed models, hot gases move through the channels. Passing through them, they heat the brick, cool themselves. Movement is possible only if there is traction. With such a forced principle of action, the heating of the case is uneven, and this leads to the formation of cracks. A large number of bricks occupies almost the entire space, and there is nowhere to put the heat exchanger if necessary. Just put it in a firebox where it will be in contact with the flame, which is why its service life is very limited. In addition, a heat exchanger located in the combustion zone takes a significant part of the thermal energy, worsening the conditions for fuel combustion, which reduces the efficiency of the furnace and increases the amount of soot.

Kuznetsov uses a different, the principle of movement of gases in the furnace - free. The furnace consists of caps - vessels turned upside down (with or without a hole at the top - differently in different models). The hoods can be located one above the other or one after the other, but they must communicate with each other using a dry seam - a space of 2-3 cm, unfilled with a solution or a heat insulator, through which gases pass from one hood to another.

The first cap and the firebox are combined into a single space. With such a device, this is what happens. The hottest gases rise to the top. For some time they remain at the top, where they transfer part of the thermal energy to the walls, they themselves cool down. As they cool down, they sink down, and hotter ones rise in their place. With this construction, the movement of air masses occurs only due to natural physical processes.

You can visually demonstrate the process if you launch a jet of smoke into a glass turned upside down. It rises, reaches the top, then the cooled part of the smoke along the walls falls down. Noticeably the same processes, only much more complex, passing in the furnace.

The red arrows in the figure show a diagram of the movement of hot air in bell-type furnaces. The blue arrows show the movement of cold air entering the furnace. Obviously, it will not rise up, because it weighs more, but will go down and will have almost no effect on the overall temperature in the hood, which is shown in the figure on the right.

But one hood is not enough for effective heat extraction, because most furnaces have two or three arches, depending on the power. Almost the same processes take place in them as in the first one: hotter gases are at the top, heating the masonry, cold gases pass down and exit into the chimney. In the upper zone of the second vault, a heat exchanger or any other device necessary for any purpose is located. No open flames, only hot gases and very efficient heat removal: high temperature air currents constantly flow. Moreover, the heating of the coolant, stones or water in the tank does not have any effect on the combustion processes: they are separated from the furnace by a brick wall.

The design of furnaces of different configurations and purposes is different, but they “consume” little fuel and remain hot for a long time. This is evidenced by the reviews of the owners. For example, such a stove is built in a house made of timber. At -25 ° C, they heat 5 poles each in the morning and in the evening (in total, about 18 kg of firewood is obtained per day). It is +25 o C in the house and it is not cold in the morning. At a temperature "overboard" up to -10 ° C, they heat once. So there are no questions about efficiency. If there are questions, then about the choice of the artist. After all, the parameters of its work depend on how correctly and competently the furnace is folded. And you can’t do it quickly: medium-sized and without bells and whistles - this is 2-3 weeks of work. In general, with reviews of Kuznetsov's stoves, everything is simple: people are happy. Pleasure, of course, is not cheap, but it is definitely worth it. This is claimed by all owners of such furnaces. There are no difficulties in operation, they are economical and not capricious, they give off heat for a very long time, and they heat up quickly.

Advantages of dome ovens

This principle is used in many furnaces for various purposes. There can be several caps, they can have a symmetrical or asymmetrical structure, be located side by side (horizontally) or one above the other (this option is often used to save space). This feature makes it possible to design furnaces of any type and configuration, for any premises and conditions. At the same time, the characteristics remain high: efficiency above 80% for Kuznetsov dome furnaces is almost the norm.

Any devices can be installed in the second hood: a hob, a heat exchanger, a heater, a hot water tank, a bread oven, etc. There are many modifications and all have one thing in common: high efficiency, economy, uniform heating. Moreover, with a vertical arrangement of caps, the bottom is heated more intensively than the top. So in a room with such an oven is comfortable.

It should be noted that much less brick is required for the construction of such a furnace: more empty space inside. Therefore, the oven heats up faster. But, characteristically, it does not cool down faster. Everything happens exactly the opposite way: Kuznetsov dome furnaces give much smaller daily temperature fluctuations than more massive counterparts with a large number of channels. And all because the hottest part of the gases remains in the caps, and the coldest part of the gases settles down and is removed from the furnace. The oven cools down, therefore, more slowly.

Due to the fact that there are no or almost no narrow channels, the bell-type furnace has less resistance to air flow, so that the chimneys are shorter. Therefore, it is easier to build it, and the foundation is needed not so massive, although it is necessary.

After kindling and entering the operating mode, it is not necessary to regulate the operation of the furnace with the free movement of gases. The process is self-regulating. If the fuel flares up very strongly, the amount of hot gases at the top increases and squeezes the colder gases into the second cap. And the colder ones are, among other things, the air coming from the blower. With a lack of air, the flame dies out, there are fewer hot gases, they rise higher up and more air enters from below. The combustion is activated again. Therefore, although there are gate valves in Kuznetsov's two-bell furnaces, they are used extremely rarely, mainly for non-standard modes.

Automatic regulation of the combustion process leads to almost complete combustion of any fuel. That is, such an oven is omnivorous and not particularly demanding on fuel conditions. When using wet fuel, it takes longer to reach normal mode, but then the process stabilizes and the resulting soot burns out. This, by the way, is another plus of dome furnaces: they need to be cleaned very rarely, since there is little ash left, and soot burns out.

Types of Kuznetsov furnaces

As mentioned above, caps can be positioned in different ways, and therefore there are a lot of options. The possibility of installing any heat exchange device in the second dome without compromising the combustion process also contributes to the presence of many different thermal units. At the same time, devices with any type of combustion can be designed according to this principle: upper, lower, pyrolysis, layered, etc. All of them have some specifics, but can be implemented. Kuznetsov's website contains projects for various purposes with order. They can be downloaded for personal use freely, but their republishing is not welcome.

There are Kuznetsov stoves for two-story houses, and they heat both levels. And there are such units with beds. Heating can be of convection type (only from the walls of the stove) or a hot water heat exchanger can be inserted inside. Then such a unit is called a boiler and denoted by CIK. Four ready-made hot-water brick boilers with a capacity of 16 kW, 17 kW, 34 kW, 64 kW are freely available on Kuznetsov's official website. They can have a built-in tank for heating water for domestic use. The boiler must be tied with metal corners, if necessary, it can be insulated, laid on top of a reinforcing mesh and plastered.

There are many more options for convection ovens. There are 25 different projects in the section of heating and cooking stoves without the use of OVIK fireclay bricks. There are three options for a heating and cooking stove with a fireplace. The fireplace can be located on the side (right or left). Such options are marked OVIK BK (side fireplace), there is an option with a bench and a fireplace OVIK BK 13l. With a fireplace located at the back, the marking is OVIK ZK (rear fireplace).

Purely heating thermal units are marked with IEC. The orders in which there is a couch have the letters “lying” or “L” in the name, if there is an oven, the letter “D” is added. Heating stoves also have options with fireplaces. They are marked OIK K. There are PKIK1X calorific ovens. Separately, the category highlights ovens for greenhouses and bread ovens.

Heating furnace Kuznetsov OIK. Impressive

Russian stoves of Kuznetsov are marked with RTIK, in total there are orders of 10 models, two of which are with stove benches. They have the usual configuration of the cooking chamber, the mouth of which must have an airtight damper. If the chamber is not tight, the oven will not work normally.

In the section of stoves for a bath, Kuznetsov immediately offers a variant of the layout of the premises with an indication of the dimensions and shows how you can “fit” suitable models there. After all, the premises of the baths, as a rule, are small, and if a metal stove can be placed in it easily, then an overall brick stove is already problematic. And in this case, many factors must be taken into account: where will it be heated, where is the steam outlet and the hottest part of the furnace. And here are the ready-made options. Very convenient and worth saying a big thank you to the author! The furnaces themselves are placed in a separate category and are marked with BIC.

This video proposes a project for a furnace designed according to the principle of building furnaces proposed by Kuznetsov. The first half talks about the movement of gases and how it works, about the principles of controlling the operation of a particular model. The second commented on the masonry process. Very helpful and informative video.

For laying the body and chimney, it is recommended to use ordinary clay solid bricks. Mark M150 and above, size 250*120*65 mm. It is not difficult to calculate the number of bricks for Kuznetsov's furnaces: you need to multiply the number of rows of the model you have chosen by 0.8. This amount is enough for laying the hull (taking into account the battle and rejection). For the chimney, you need to count separately. The calculation scheme is slightly different: you know how many bricks per row, multiply by the number of rows (each one is different depending on the dimensions of the furnace and the height of the building), add 10% per battle and get the desired number.

For the fireclay core (if any), Sh-5 (230*114*40 mm) or ShB-8 (250*123*65 mm) is recommended. Its quantity is calculated according to the scheme piece by piece. The core in the Kuznetsov furnaces is not connected with the body, that is, there are no common points of contact between them. Between two parallel walls, the body and the fireclay core, there should be a gap of 5-6 mm. To make it easier to withstand, you can wrap the finished core (usually it is placed first) with ordinary packing cardboard of the appropriate thickness. Instead, for better thermal insulation of the firebox, you can lay a heat insulator, basalt cardboard, for example.

The height of the rows of masonry made of ceramic bricks does not match the height of the rows of fireclay. They do not need to be adjusted one under the other. It is important to maintain verticality and horizontality, track the angle, as well as the recommended seam width. And then everything will be as it should be. In reality, the dimensions of ceramic bricks differ from the standard 250 * 120 * 65 mm. If the deviations are not critical, they can be corrected with a seam. Therefore, when calculating furnaces and their heights, they take the height of a brick with a seam. It should be 70 mm. But you can’t make a seam more than 7 mm, so look for a brick of suitable quality and size.

Above, in places where the laying of fireclay ends, there are compensation gaps that take into account different coefficients of expansion of materials. It is imperative to observe them: the expansion of fireclay bricks is greater than that of ceramic ones, and if there is no such gap, the core will break the masonry located on top after a while due to the fact that it expands more.

The size of the gap must be calculated from the marks on the order. The drawings are labeled with the height of the last row of chamotte. Consider the height of the ceramic brick wall yourself: multiply the number of rows by the height of the row with a seam (70mm) and get the desired value. It should be 10-15 mm more than the height of the fireclay. This gap is compensatory and it must be present. The resulting void is laid with stone basalt wool (not glass wool, but one that has a use temperature above 1200 ° C).

If there are posts and inner walls inside (usually a quarter thick), bricks can be laid flat or on edge in them. There is no difference, do what is more convenient. There are places in the drawings where in one row there is a brick placed flat and on edge. In this case, it needs to be driven to size (cut).

There are also nuances in the places where furnace casting is installed. In the drawings above the firebox door, due to the features of the program, ceramic bricks are shown, but fireclay must be placed there on the edge. With a difference in height, the voids are filled with cut out plates of fireclay. A gap of 5 mm remains between the metal parts and the masonry - again, due to different thermal expansions. A suitable heat insulator is placed in this gap (with an operating temperature of 1200 ° C).

Now about the mortar: for laying the body (made of ceramic bricks), clay or clay-sand mortar is used. For laying refractory chamotte, purchased compositions (refractory mastics) are used. Kuznetsov does not recommend wetting the brick before laying. If it is necessary to do this, then only with secondary raw materials. Immediately after completion, the oven must be dried, even if you do not immediately put it into operation. If this is not done, subsequently, with the first few fireboxes, there will be a smell of waste.

Results

There are a lot of subtleties and nuances in the construction of brick ovens and this is not at all an easy task. Nevertheless, it is possible to make a Kuznetsov oven with your own hands: the orders and diagrams are provided by the author for free use. With the appropriate explanations and if there is a desire, anything can be done.

Today, many are wondering how and what is the best way to heat your home if there is no gas. Firewood and coal are among the most affordable types of fuel. Therefore, the right decision here would be to build a heating stove, and even better, add a cooking function to it for cooking. There are a lot of design options both in form and in principles of operation.

In this article I will acquaint you with the features of the Kuznetsov furnace, its advantages and a step-by-step scheme for the construction of such a unit on my own.

The furnaces of the engineer Kuznetsov have been known not only at home, but throughout the world since the 60s of the last century.

Moreover, the relevance of developments half a century ago has not become less at all, but on the contrary, Kuznetsov's furnaces are becoming more and more popular.

The goal of modernizing the old design of the Russian stove with a not so significant change in its internal structure was to create a heating unit with a higher efficiency while saving fuel.

Bell-type furnaces are one of the most common and in terms of characteristics they are in no way inferior to channel furnaces.

This stove is the latest development in the conservative field: installation and design of stoves. This stove is distinguished by a fundamentally new method of using hot gas.

In a standard type design, the movement of cold and hot gas occurs due to the draft of air, which enters through the ash pan.

The bell-type furnace is very similar in principle to the operation of rocket furnaces, where hot gases move not under the influence of chimney draft, but due to the gravity of the gases themselves.

Advantages and disadvantages of the furnace

Advantages:

- high efficiency of 75-85% (efficiency);
- fuel burns at high temperatures;
- the stove runs on all types of solid fuels - wood, hard and brown coal, briquettes, etc.;
- ease of maintenance, no need to clean long channels (low soot formation);
- durability of the furnace;
- aesthetic, original appearance;
- high efficiency, multifunctionality;
- profitability;
- long-term heat retention;
- the shape and design of stoves may vary depending on the purpose;

combining the Kuznetsov stove and water heating at home is not difficult and is often used in practice.

A tubular heat exchanger is installed inside the furnace and connected to the heating circuit pipeline. The main plus is that the heat engineering and heat transfer of the furnace during modernization remain unchanged, without the slightest decrease in efficiency;

the design of the blacksmith allows you to arrange low chimneys, and there is no reduction in thrust. This fact is somewhat surprising to those who first get acquainted with the design and operation of these furnaces;

the features of the internal design of Kuznetsov furnaces allow the unit to be installed in almost any room of any size, regardless of what the room is intended for.

Both in kitchens and in common rooms, the stove looks solid and aesthetically pleasing, and organically fits into many interiors;

the most interesting and unusual feature of blacksmithing in the context of a house oven: you can not close the view. This most important part of the furnace and one of the conditions for safe everyday operation is needed for the Kuznetsov furnace only if an emergency occurs.

The fact is that when the process of fuel combustion comes to an end and cooling begins, the thrust in the furnace channels is redistributed spontaneously, “automatically”.

It was the bell-type stoves that became the basis for the creation of many household, heating and cooking stoves of a new type, which give a much better effect with less fuel consumption.

What can be said about the shortcomings of the furnace.

Technically, they are not, but something still needs to be taken into account.

The Kuznetsov furnace cannot have massive walls - this would nullify many of its advantages. But at the same time, it is subjected to rather high thermal loads.

Therefore, this unit must be carefully calculated and verified at the development stage and just as carefully, with scrupulous observance of all technology requirements, built. At the slightest deviation from the technical regulations, the blacksmithing will turn out to be very short-lived.

The principle of operation of the furnace

It is based on the principle of free movement of gases. For air to circulate in a conventional furnace, external energy is required, that is, the creation of forced draft in the pipe.

When gases are in a closed space, in the presence of a constant source of heat, they are separated under their own weight - cold ones settle down, hot ones rise up. At the same time, in the area of high temperatures, the pressure rises, and where it is cold, it drops and energy is generated.

It turns out that turbulent motion occurs automatically due to the laws of physics. This means that if convection flows are correctly directed, then thermal energy will be transferred by the masses of gas themselves.

With electrical heat supply, no draft pipe is required. If the stove is heated with wood, then invariably the combustion product must go outside.

Thanks to a cunning design, it accumulates at the last stage of its journey, as if under a hood. There it burns out again, giving up its heat to the end, and then it is discharged into the street in the form of useless gas, without cooling the system. Such furnaces are also called bell-type.

The fundamental feature of the gas filling of the cavities is that, no matter how many compartments the furnace has, they are all filled with gas evenly and the same physical processes occur in all. It is impossible to create something similar with the help of traction, the principle of countercurrent (widely used in Europe) or other convective methods.

That is why such stoves are an innovation in the stove heating system.

They regulate themselves and, no matter what configuration they are given, they always work according to a natural principle.

The principle of the furnace device is quite simple: the lower tier and the firebox (it is also called the hearth) are combined into a single space - a cap, inside which hot gases move freely.

The hottest, lighter gases move to the top of the bell, while the “heavy” cold gases are located at the bottom. And between them circulate gases having an intermediate temperature.

The heated air is kept in the furnace for a long time, transferring heat to the walls of the hood, and the cooled air is discharged through a special passage into the chimney. The combustion temperature in the hood is very high. The efficiency of such a stove is three times higher than that of a traditional Russian stove.

Varieties of Kuznetsov furnaces

According to the functions performed, Kuznetsov's brick kilns can be divided into several main groups:

Fireplaces.
Grills and BBQ.
Combined structures, complexes.
Perhaps the most popular are Kuznetsov's heating and cooking stoves. They will warm the house and will not leave you hungry.

Kuznetsov also has such projects.

Before you start building, make sure that this is exactly the option that you want to see in your home.

Such furnaces imply the presence of a convenient ledge with a cast-iron surface, with the possibility of partially opening holes to increase the temperature. It is also possible to make a door for a cauldron, like old Russian stoves.

The layout of heating and cooking stoves requires its own approach and individual drawings.

Bell-type furnaces can be erected in almost any room. It can be an apartment, a residential building, an outbuilding or a bathhouse. For example, for a bath, a bell-type stove will be an ideal replacement for a conventional standard stove.

By building this stove for a bath, you can solve several problems at once. This design is able to heat several rooms: a sink and a steam room, as well as a rest room. In addition, it is very convenient to heat water on the stove, creating steam in the required amount in parallel.

The house can be equipped with two-bell heating using a stove, this installation is very functional. Before building such a structure, it is necessary to carefully study the project.

A system that burns raw fuel must be organized in the most optimal way. The furnace must always be maintained at the correct temperature, otherwise the gases that form after combustion can be transformed into harmful soot and tar waste.

Do-it-yourself Kuznetsov oven

The construction of a blacksmith requires not so much skills as the availability of good schemes and drawings, as well as the utmost care. Not even a stove-maker, but a masterful householder can master this task.

It will be easier for those who already have the precious experience of bricklaying, then the only thing you will need to do is quietly and peacefully lay the rows, following the pattern.

Having decided to build a furnace according to one of Kuznetsov's orders with your own hands, get ready for careful and scrupulous work.

On the diagrams, which can be easily found on the Internet, you will see a graphic representation of each row, however, before starting laying, you need to get acquainted with the features of the technique, in particular:

selection and pre-treatment of bricks;
purchase of metal parts (plates, dampers, doors, valves);
determining the most suitable location;
preparation of the base and foundation;
the possibility of equipping a chimney, etc.

Fireclay refractory bricks (Sh-5, ShB-8) are recognized as the best material for the internal laying of "blacksmiths", and ceramics (M-150) for external design.

To reinforce brick walls, metal elements (reinforcement, wire) are used.

In order for the furnace to function with maximum heat output, experienced craftsmen hone not only their skills, but every brick - literally. They polish every detail, which is why projects made by professionals look flawless.

The main purpose of any stove is heating, its location must be chosen to provide heat in the most efficient way.

Kuznetsov stoves are infrared heaters that provide the most heat by direct radiation.

Thus, maximum power is achieved with the correct positioning.

Therefore, the center of the room is always the right choice. A wise decision is to place it as a functional space divider, such as a kitchen and living room or living room and bedroom.

Try to avoid placing the stove next to an outside wall or, even worse, place it in a niche in an outside wall (a typical location for conventional fireplaces) if you want to keep the heat inside.

The choice of a stove of one type or another and its location in the house, in addition to the preferences of the owner, depends on the purpose of the stove, the size of the house and the level of its thermal insulation, the number and size of windows.

In addition, for normal operation and repair, access to the stove must be free from all sides, that is, none of the sides of the stove should simultaneously enter into any of the external walls of the house.

To complete the construction process, you need to stock up on a bayonet and shovel, as well as the following materials:

sand (3 parts), cement (1 part) and water for mortar preparation;
reinforcing rod of medium section;
polyethylene film;
board for the construction of formwork.

Construction stages:

1. After making the foundation, you need to take care of preparing the mortar for laying the furnace. For the construction of a brick oven, not cement is used, but clay. And not any, but only the one that lies at a depth of at least 2 meters. The clay is sieved and washed out, preparing a solution of the desired viscosity.
2. After the concrete foundation has completely hardened, you can proceed to the brickwork. The Kuznetsov furnace is correctly lined up only if the order proposed by the inventor is observed.
3. Before starting masonry, it is worth considering the location of the chimney pipe inside the room and outside on the roof, which must meet certain requirements. Recall that any Kuznetsov furnace has ready-made drawings, in accordance with which construction work is carried out.
4. Fireclay fire-resistant bricks are used for laying the first two rows. To connect the bricks, a special masonry mortar is prepared. It is not recommended to use a mixture prepared for arranging the foundation.
5. After completing the laying of the 1st row, the corners are checked, each of which should be 90 degrees. From the 2nd row, the arrangement of chimney channels begins.
6. To improve the heat output of the device, it is recommended to install 4 cleaning channels for the channels - in the back, in the blower and on the sides. The sizes of cleanings are chosen individually. At this stage, the horizontalness of all surfaces is checked using a corner.
7. From the 2nd row, an ashpit and a blower are formed. These working chambers are designed to clean the ash and create the necessary draft for combustion. Brickwork is carried out in a checkerboard pattern with a seam 6 mm thick. To fix the bricks, a solution based on refractory clay is used.
8. Next, partitions are installed for internal compartments, a wall is formed between the blower and the working part of the furnace.
9. When laying the 5th row, a grate is installed, the thickness of which is determined by the degree of loading of the chamber with fuel.
10. Until the 16th row, laying is carried out similarly to the previous rows.
11. From the 17th row, a cap is installed, after which you can begin to equip the second chamber located above the first. It will be the second cap. At this stage, the cap is covered, and on the 21st row, passages are arranged that are directed along the inner walls on both sides.
12. The work is carried out in accordance with the proposed order until the 26th row, after which the upper part of the cap is securely closed with brickwork.

24 hours after the completion of the masonry, a test run of the stove can be carried out with the addition of a small amount of fuel material. This will allow you to check the finished structure for tightness and the absence of gaps between the bricks.
If even minor deficiencies are found, they must be eliminated immediately.

The firebox is made of fireclay bricks, and the body of the furnace is made of ceramic, which means that when heated and cooled, they behave differently. Therefore, the firebox itself must be floating; for this purpose, a special dry seam is made around it.

This is done so that the masonry of fireclay and ceramic bricks, different in physical characteristics, does not break during operation.
"Dry joint": between fireclay and ceramic bricks, masonry mortar must be removed, and mineral cardboard must be inserted into the resulting void.

It is necessary to strictly observe one more rule - the protrusions of fireclay masonry should not enter the recesses of ceramic masonry, and vice versa. Thus, we get a completely independent firebox.

Features of the operation of the furnace

The first is the automatic fuel combustion mode.

In a conventional stove, when kindling, it is recommended to open the blower to the maximum width in order to create more draft in the stove. Then, as the fire in the furnace intensifies, the door is gradually covered so that the temperature of the flame decreases somewhat, and the heat is transferred to a greater extent into the room.

In bell-type furnaces, manipulations with doors and furnace valves do not make sense. The intensity of combustion is regulated by the ratio of the volume of the caps and the combustion chamber. This happens automatically, you just need to kindle a fire and lay the required amount of firewood or other fuel.

The second thing that pleasantly strikes is the absence of the need for daily cleaning of the ash pan.

Any combustible material burns completely in the furnace, without a solid residue. Almost no soot is formed on the walls of the furnace: as a result of pyrolysis, carbon is oxidized to the state of carbon monoxide (and partially carbon dioxide) gas.

A chimney valve that is not tightly closed will not lead to a cooling of the furnace: hot gases will be in the dome until they give up all the thermal energy to the bricks.

In summer mode, the Kuznetsov stove turns from a heating and cooking oven into a cooking one. To do this, it is enough to open a special valve (it is called the valve of the summer run), after which the flue gases will enter the chimney directly, bypassing the caps. Accordingly, only the hob will be heated.

The temperature inside the cooking chamber can be regulated by a damper installed on the exhaust channel extending from it. By closing the valve and the door of the chamber, it can easily be turned into an oven. For ease of use, shelves for baking sheets can be fixed in the walls.

If you need to quickly warm up the room or dry out, the door of the cooking chamber is opened. At the same time, the temperature on the burners remains high enough for cooking.

On eccentrics, as you know, all progress rests. Who knows how we would live today if it were not for the eccentric Leonardo, if Tesla would not be so persistent in his eccentricities. There are a lot of examples, but today we are interested in the developments of one person who devoted his life to furnaces, their deep study and the development of new, fundamentally different designs. I.V. Kuznetsov began his activity in 1962, and until now his developments do not lose their relevance.

Kuznetsov's furnace and its features

Kuznetsov strove for one thing - to achieve maximum productivity, efficiency and economy in the operation of his furnace. Each device that he introduced was distinguished by improved features - heat saving, productivity, equipment and design features. Moreover, there is nothing supernatural in the manufacture of such furnaces. Everything ingenious is simple, therefore it is quite possible to build a Kuznetsov furnace drawings, device and basic rules must be studied thoroughly.

All Kuznetsov furnaces are characterized by increased efficiency. This was achieved thanks to a completely new and unique development. The movement of gases is very precisely thought out in the furnace, hot air is not wasted and does not heat the street, and cold air goes into the chimney through a special system. Such furnaces are usually called bell-type furnaces due to the design features, which we will briefly consider.

Kuznetsov's bell-type furnace

They call them bell-shaped because, according to the project, a kind of hood is built inside the furnace, which unites the hearth directly and the lower part of the furnace. The hood serves as a gas separator, and sorts them into hot and cold ones, which allows you to remove cold gases, and leave hot gases in the furnace for as long as possible. Hot gases simply rise under the hood and remain there for a long time, not flying out into the chimney, as in a conventional Russian stove, but rather accumulating heat.

Naturally, due to this, the combustion temperature rises in the furnace, as a result, the efficiency increases to 80-90%. In addition, the system of free movement of gases helps to make the heating of the furnace much more uniform, and the formation of soot is not so intense. As a result of the application of all these design subtleties, the following advantages of blacksmiths emerge:

huge efficiency;
profitability;
high resistance of the furnace to the formation of cracks;
free attitude to the shape and design of the furnace;
very uniform heating;
minimal smoke;
undemanding design for maintenance.

Types of Kuznetsov furnaces

The design received enormous value due to its amazing versatility. The Kuznetsov stove, drawings of which are presented in more than 150 variants, can be used in any room as efficiently as possible. Each of the drawings takes into account the features of the premises for a specific purpose, which is why the furnace works with such a high efficiency for a certain type of building.

It makes no sense to list all Kuznetsov's furnaces, here are just some of the options that are most in demand:

bread ovens, for cooking, combined with cooking surfaces;
bath stoves;
fireplace stoves;
heating furnaces.

This is not a complete list of specialized Kuznetsov furnaces. It is possible to create combined views, which is very convenient if you use them in everyday life in small areas.

Orders of Kuznetsov furnaces

The construction of the Kuznetsov furnace does not imply the presence of special knowledge and skills. If the hands are sharpened for the simplest tool, it is enough to follow the order and a few simple rules to successfully build a structure. Ordering is simply a system of drawings and instructions describing the process of laying out a furnace step by step, down to each row of bricks separately. Why such precision? The fact is that Kuznetsov spent decades making the design work perfectly, and if you miss any little thing, the stove will not work correctly. Here is a sample order:

Kuznetsov's furnaces for a bath

There are quite a few blacksmiths for the bath. There are as many as 17 types of conventional sauna stoves alone. All of them can be different in size, according to the location of the firebox, a place for stones, the presence of a fireplace, a hob, and each type has its own order. Even from ready-made stoves, you can easily choose the most suitable one for the specific layout of the bath, practically without making any changes. Here are just a few examples:

The use of Kuznetsov furnaces in a bath gives a whole series of advantages:

No fantasy. Just by carefully studying the order, you can lay out an excellent stove for both a bath and for heating or a barbecue oven with your own hands.

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How to fold the oven I.V. Kuznetsova

Ordinal scheme and materials for construction

Detailed ordering of the heating and cooking furnace Kuznetsov OVIK-9

Necessary materials

The process of building a furnace

Advantages

Kinds

Sauna oven

Materials you will need

We make the foundation

How to make bricklaying and firebox

Strengthening the structure with wire

Operating principle

Advantages of dome ovens

Types of Kuznetsov furnaces

Results

Advantages and disadvantages of the furnace

The principle of operation of the furnace

Varieties of Kuznetsov furnaces

Do-it-yourself Kuznetsov oven

Features of the operation of the furnace

Kuznetsov's furnace and its features

Kuznetsov's bell-type furnace

Types of Kuznetsov furnaces

Orders of Kuznetsov furnaces

Kuznetsov's furnaces for a bath

What else to read

THE LAST NOTES

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