How to make a cesspool out of bricks with your own hands. Cesspool of bricks: how to properly lay out Refractory brick for a cesspool

Are you planning to build a wastewater drainage system in a suburban area by equipping a pit? Agree that a cottage or a house of permanent residence with all amenities will become much more comfortable. But you don’t know how a brick drain pit is built and what consumables will be required for this?

We will help you cope with the task - the article discusses the popular types of brick cesspools. As well as the step-by-step process of constructing such a sewer, starting with choosing a place for a pit and calculating its dimensions.

The material is provided with visual photographs. Videos with useful tips on self-construction of a brick drain tank have also been selected. The advantages and features of its operation and periodic maintenance are considered.

A drain or cesspool is one of the oldest options for sewerage points for receiving and primary processing of wastewater on earth. It can be built even without any experience in construction work.

Moreover, often such a device is created on the site at the very beginning of construction work in order to provide builders with a minimum set of amenities.

You can do the construction of a drain pit on your own or invite a team of workers - there is a large amount of excavation

Technically, a drain pit is a simple septic tank or human waste storage tank. A sewer pipe leading from the house is brought to this tank, located underground.

Pipes of a separate toilet, bathhouse and other premises available on the site are also brought to it.

One common cesspool on the site is not the only option for organizing such a system. If desired, you can make a separate small container for each room.

Such a solution may be convenient, for example, if the bathhouse is located at a considerable distance from other buildings.

Waste is gradually accumulated and partially disposed of depending on the type of facility. As the pit fills with drains, it must be cleaned to prevent overflow of the structure.

Modern means allow waste disposal with a sufficiently high degree of efficiency. We recommend that you familiarize yourself with the best methods on.

Varieties of cesspool structures

From a brick, you can build a cesspool of any type:

• sealed;
• with permeable walls;
• without bottom;
• divided into several sections.

Each building has certain characteristics. For example, sealed pit used in areas with high groundwater levels. This design prevents the possibility of environmental pollution by sewage.

Permeable drain pits, intended for the processing and disposal of gray effluents, are arranged with a meter sand and gravel filter near the bottom.

With insufficient throughput of the underlying rocks, they are equipped with small holes in the walls through which the liquid part of the waste is disposed of.

If you divide the capacity of the drain pit with brick partitions and insert overflow tubes into them, you get an almost home-made septic tank

In the so-called pits without a bottom the lower part is not concreted. The walls of such structures are erected on a concrete base with a gap in which a sand and gravel filter is laid directly on the ground.

Liquid effluents will slowly seep through this natural filter and then enter the underlying soil layers, where they undergo their final treatment. The use of bricks allows you to create both an airtight drain pit and its permeable version. Most often, such structures are made with a rectangular base, this is the simplest scheme.

Divided into several sections. A large pit can be divided by partitions into two or three sections, which are connected by overflows.

Such a device, similar to a sewer septic tank, allows you to repeatedly separate the bulk of solid and liquid waste and increase the degree of their processing with the help of bacteria.

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After the masonry work is completed, the walls need to be plastered.

The sewer pipe should enter the sewer device at a slight angle to ensure the optimal speed of movement of wastewater and waste

Stage #5 - waterproofing and topcoating

A layer of waterproofing material, such as bituminous mastic, is placed on the plaster. These measures will help extend the life of the sewer device.

When applying waterproofing materials, follow the instructions exactly. For example, a dry base is required for mastic.

Now you can install the top cover. To do this, it is best to purchase a ready-made concrete slab with a hole and a cover -.

Alternatively, you can consider a concrete structure of your own manufacture or a timber floor. The latter option does not differ in strength, every few years such an overlap will have to be replaced.

If a decision is made to make a concrete floor on your own, you should start doing it simultaneously with the base and using a similar technology. Filling is carried out in a wooden formwork.

The parameters of the upper floor must exceed the dimensions of the hole that it will cover by at least 30 cm.

The hole for servicing the drain pit must be large enough so that a person can climb into it to inspect the structure.

First, a layer of solution of several centimeters is poured, then reinforcement is installed and the main layer is poured. This element must dry for four weeks. In the upper ceiling, it is necessary to make another hole - a ventilation hole.

The sewer device needs proper ventilation, because over time, sewage begins to release methane, which is a dangerous gas.

To organize natural ventilation, a plastic pipe with a diameter of about 100 mm is used. From above, the pipe is covered with a protective device; its lower part also does not interfere with equipping it with a grate.

After installing the ceiling, a layer of waterproofing should be applied over the structure, roofing material and even a thick plastic film will do.

A topsoil layer is usually laid on top to ennoble the site and protect the cesspool from freezing in winter.

Features of the device operation

The main care of the cesspool is to ensure that it is emptied and cleaned in a timely manner. Designed for cesspools can become a significant help in recycling and disposal of waste.

Such drugs are usually provided with detailed instructions and are very easy to use. They must either be simply poured / poured into the sewer, or pre-mixed with some water.

Pumping out waste from the drain pit is best done using special equipment. Drains should be removed when their amount takes up two-thirds of the capacity

Such microorganisms are able to process effluents, decomposing them into safe components. At the same time, the smell characteristic of sewer devices also disappears.

But at the same time, it should be remembered that contact with certain types of household chemicals is detrimental to bacteria, so you will have to check the composition of the washing and cleaning products that are available in the house.

After the cesspool has been cleaned, it does not hurt to inspect it and check the integrity of the brick walls. If necessary, carry out minor repairs to the structure: replace damaged bricks with whole ones, restore damaged waterproofing, etc.

In addition to bricks, concrete rings, tires, a barrel, and so on can serve as a material for making a cesspool.

A brick cesspool is a reliable and convenient structure. Making such a device is not easy, but all efforts will pay off, because if the technology is followed, such a device can last for many years.

Do you use a self-made brick pit as a waste collector? Or are you just planning to build a cesspool? Do you have any questions after reading this article? Ask them in the comments to our article - we will try to clarify difficult points.

Almost all owners of summer cottages and country houses located far from any sewer systems sooner or later wonder how to make a cesspool. The modern market, instead of executing such an idea, provides an opportunity to use rather expensive mini-stations focused on wastewater treatment. Nevertheless, it must be recognized that such expenses are not affordable for every inhabitant.

A brick cesspool is a simple and inexpensive way to equip a sewer in a summer cottage.

The only justified solution that does not impose serious costs remains the well-known, time-tested cesspool (drain) pit, being in which wastewater is gradually transformed under the influence of anaerobic bacteria, and the contents of the pit decrease after some time, while releasing gas into the environment. Wednesday. Let's consider what needs to be done so that a brick cesspool appears on our summer cottage. A cesspool (drain) pit is a depression in the ground at least 2 m deep, which serves as a drain tank. As a rule, a drain hole is made square or rectangular, since it is much easier to dig such a hole if, for example, there is no necessary special equipment nearby. Nevertheless, a round-shaped cesspool is considered the most acceptable (with this shape, the load on the walls is the most optimal). Advantages of a brick pit:

In an unsealed (without a bottom) cesspool, drains seep into the ground, so it is important to place it no closer than 50 meters from the nearest well with drinking water.

1. Environmental friendliness. All contents are removed by a special sewage truck or cleaned directly on the spot.
2. Independence from groundwater level fluctuations relative to seasons.
3. No pollution effect. The soil and groundwater are not polluted by drains from the pit, since a cesspool without a bottom is available for operation only with a volume of drains up to 1 m 3, while the space of a large brick drain pit is reliably separated from the ground on all sides.
4. Even unskilled masons can build such a pit (most summer residents turn out to be just that).

Disadvantages of a cesspool:

1. Unpleasant odors may occur. To cope with this problem, it is necessary to carry out timely cleaning and use special tools that help accelerate the process of waste decomposition.
2. Not very long service life. A brick drain pit will serve as a sewer for about 15 years, as it will become unusable over time due to the gradual decomposition of wooden struts and brickwork. Under the constant influence of water, they turn into clay.
3. It is necessary to call the cesspools frequently. If you live permanently in your country house, then cleaning should be done 2 times a week and at least. Otherwise, you will have a problem - sludge forms in the drain pit, in which much more time and effort will be spent on cleaning.

The location and size of the cesspool

There are regulations and documents regulating the location of the cesspool on the site. The document for cesspools is SNiP (Building Norms and Rules) 30-02-97.

It clearly shows all the details:

• the distance from the dwelling to the cesspool (drain) pit must be at least 12 m;
• the distance to the fence must be at least 1 m.

Based on these rules, you can choose a suitable place where the drain pit will be located, and decide what its dimensions will be, so that everything is in accordance with the regulations. The appropriate size for a cesspit can be determined based on the following factors:

1. Number of permanent residents. For example, from 3-4 people you can get 12 m 3 of wastewater. In this case, a pit with a size of at least 18 m 3 is required.
2. Rocks occurring on the site. In accordance with this factor, the size of the pit can be selected or changed. If the soil is saturated with easily water-permeable rocks (for example, marl belongs to such a rock), a minimum pit volume of about 30-40% of the monthly flow is acceptable. On the contrary, if the soil consists of rocks that are difficult to pass water (clay, for example), then the volume should be the rate of monthly flow.

Required building materials

After the calculations of the drain pit have been made, we proceed to the next stage - we extract the necessary building materials. It is important to keep in mind some points:

Brick walls should be 25 cm thick. To reduce the risk of seepage of drain water, the walls should be plastered using a mixture of sand and cement.

1. The bottom should be concreted, as this will avoid possible problems when pumping out the pit.
2. The walls should also be concreted, but it is more competent to lay them out with bricks. Laying must be done in a checkerboard pattern, which will facilitate the process of water absorption into the ground.
3. Above the pit, it is required to make an overlap with a hatch (for example, a monolithic slab with a hole for the hatch). The hatch in this case must be so that, if necessary, there is access to the pit and sewage can be pumped out.
4. If you do not plan to insulate the roof of the pit in any way, the walls should be left 30-40 cm below ground level. After installation, the ceiling should be covered with earth, which does not prevent the sewage from freezing.

To implement everything conceived and build a drain pit with your own hands, you need a set of tools:

• shovel shovel (with special sides and a long handle);
• bayonet shovel (with a regular and long handle);
• pegs and ropes (2 sets each) - the first set for marking, the second for fencing;
• roulette;
• stairs;
• 3-4 buckets;
• building level;
• Master OK.

Stages of building a cesspool made of bricks

The cesspool must be at least 1.5 m deep. The bottom needs to be covered with sand and concreted, after which you can start laying brick walls.

It will take a lot of time to choose a place for a cesspool (drain) pit and carry out digging work. Most often, the pit is made 1.5 m deep and not more than 1 m wide. The length is selected relative to the estimated volume of drains. An important design feature is the need to tilt the bottom of the pit towards the location of the future hatch.

After a sand cushion 10-15 cm thick has been placed at the bottom, a layer of concrete of the same thickness must be laid on top of it. Then a 4 cm screed is placed above the concrete from a mixture of cement and sand. It is very convenient to use a pre-prepared reinforced concrete slab to lower it to the bottom at an angle of about 45 degrees.

Masonry must be done in half a brick or a quarter, in a checkerboard pattern, using a solution of sand and cement. It is best to resort to the dressing method, in which every 4th row is attached to the bonder due to a strong cement mortar. The thickness of the masonry in the end should be 25 cm.

It is necessary to think over a plan of action in order not only to make a cesspool, but also to practically nullify the potential danger of filtration. To implement this idea, a clay castle is made or the walls of the pit are covered with bitumen mastic. To plaster a hole, you need to use a mixture of 1 part cement and 2 parts sand. The service life of plaster increases due to its ironing.

Device for overlapping and hatch of a cesspool

To close the cesspool, a wooden floor is made along the perimeter and concreted, leaving a hole for the hatch.

The cesspool must be securely covered from above by at least 50 cm on all sides. To do this, you can use either densely packed logs or reinforced concrete slabs.

The location of the hole for the hatch is determined immediately, it should be about 70 cm in diameter.

Having laid polyethylene or roofing material on the ceiling to achieve insulation, it is necessary to fill it with a thick layer of slag, soil or softened clay (30-40 cm). In order to prevent the spread of unpleasant odors from the cesspool in warm seasons and to protect against freezing of drains in winter, a double hatch should be built. The first cover is at ground level, the second is at floor level. Free space must be filled with expanded clay, foam plastic, slag and other similar materials.

For the townspeople, the problems of removal and disposal of domestic wastewater are solved by public utilities, but the adherents of a spacious country life have to think through such pressing issues on their own. If the owner of an estate intended for the residence of a large family most often has to order an installation on the site of a volumetric septic tank or a local treatment station, then the summer resident may well build a cesspool with his own hands from inexpensive or waste materials. She will perfectly cope with the important sanitary function, and will not require the allocation of too much funds for the arrangement.

The most simple and budget options

The historical predecessor of this sewer facility was a simple pit dug in the ground, the walls of which were coated with clay and reinforced with boards. Then they began to bury old barrels, tanks, and other used containers in the ground. Now, such "reservoirs" for collecting and partial filtration of wastewater are satisfied only if the daily amount does not exceed 1 cubic meter. m.

An elementary cesspool for a toilet can satisfy the needs of summer residents who stay on the site for a couple of days a week during the summer season. However, its device is not approved, and sometimes it is completely forbidden by the sanitary and epidemiological services, often accompanying the bans with the imposition of administrative penalties.

An elementary cesspool: from the simplest boarded container for a closet to a tank made of concrete rings

Attention. The depth mark of the bottom should be at least 1 meter higher than the maximum (spring-autumn) groundwater level.

If the owner of a suburban area really does not want to spend money on a construction device, and he has a certain amount of worn tires, this material can be usefully used. It will be necessary just to lay the tires in the excavated pit, fastening them together with bolts. If the pit is arranged outside the house or toilet, a hole must be cut in the side of the tire laid on top to connect the sewer pipeline. After the pit around the makeshift treatment plant, it is covered with soil, a concrete slab with a hole for the ventilation pipe and a pumping hatch is laid on top.

The owner of the Nth amount of worn tires can build an excellent reservoir for collecting wastewater from them.

Common types of structures

According to the characteristic design differences, cesspools are divided into absorbing structures and sealed containers. The functions of collecting, accumulating and treating wastewater are also performed by septic tanks. They are more technically complex installations with forced stimulation of the movement of effluents inside and with biological and chemical cleaning methods.

It is unacceptable to violate the sanitary and epidemiological standards for the location of the cesspool

Containers without a bottom - absorbent

Direct descendants of the "folk" cesspool. Their characteristic feature is the absence of a bottom, due to which the liquid component of the drains, after being cleaned by coarse filtration through a layer of a mixture of sand, gravel, broken bricks and other “ingredients”, passes into the ground. The absorbing option is considered the most economical, in addition, the construction of a pit of this type may well be carried out by a performer who has absolutely no experience in the field of construction. More savings: due to the partial infiltration of purified water into the ground, it is much less necessary to call vacuum trucks.

Design scheme of a cesspool without a bottom - drains are filtered through crushed stone

The absorbing variety of pits is chosen if there is no need to drain a large amount of wastewater, if the country house does not have a jacuzzi, dishwashers and washing machines. A large volume of land will not be able to process and receive. In addition, the ongoing cleaning cannot be classified as one hundred percent effective procedures, which means that effluents from an absorbing pit will still pollute the environment.

Sealed waste tanks

In their name there is a direct clue that speaks of the main design feature. In fact, these are closed containers made of impermeable concrete, brickwork, plastic, gas silicate blocks that need constant emptying after filling. Hermetic structures will ensure the complete absence of odors inherent in drains, but will force the owners to regularly call a sewer truck to remove accumulations.

Important. A cinder block is not applicable for the construction of a cesspool; it will collapse too quickly from contact with water.

The easiest way is to buy and bury a factory-made plastic container for collecting wastewater, bring a sewer pipeline to it and periodically call vacuum trucks to empty it.

The simplest scheme for constructing a wastewater tank is to install a plastic container purchased from a store. It does not need to be sealed, however, it is advisable to fill the bottom of the pit with a kind of cement screed and strengthen the walls with reinforcement. In principle, if the owners are not embarrassed by the unpresentable appearance, then there is no need to bury it in the ground. Another very strong argument in favor: a plastic structure can be installed regardless of the close groundwater level. No harm will be done to the environment anyway.

The tank should not be completely filled with waste masses, there should be at least one meter between the manhole cover and the liquid level, if the level has exceeded the limit, the tank should be emptied

The simplest homemade septic tanks

These are already more complex structures that perform not only deep cleaning, but also process the waste mass into fertilizer valuable for gardeners and gardeners. Most often they are a system of two or three chambers, in the first of which only collection and rough mechanical cleaning takes place, and in the subsequent chambers, specific bacteria enter the battle, finally processing the polluting inclusions of wastewater.

A cesspool with overflow purifies water so well that it can be successfully used for household and technical purposes, for example, for watering or for cleaning the site. But in order to make a septic tank with overflow, considerable effort will be required.

The principle of operation of a three-chamber septic tank is a multi-stage purification of waste masses: in the first tank, the collected effluent is subjected to coarse filtration, in the following chambers, finer purification is performed

If you don’t feel sorry for the efforts, but there is no surplus of financial resources, you can again resort to worn-out car tires. In the sense of "bald", but not worn to holes tires. Moreover, the owner will save not only due to waste building material. For the installation of a septic tank from tires, a powerful concrete foundation is not needed, a compacted cushion of crushed stone with sand with a capacity of 30-40 cm and a ten-centimeter screed is sufficient.

• To increase the volume of the reservoir created, the sidewalls of the tires must be cut off.
• A concrete pipe is installed vertically in a well made up of tires, its diameter should be approximately two times smaller than the same tire size. The upper cut of the concrete pipe is located 10 cm below the well made of rubber.
• The bottom of the pipe is poured with concrete so that a monolithic concrete cylinder is obtained.

At the top, you will need to make holes for infiltration and for installing pipes that provide overflow.

Pit design with overflow: the pipe entering the chamber must be located higher than the overflow pipe

• The sewer pipe must be inserted into a concrete container located inside the tires.

Places where sewer pipes enter vertically installed concrete pipes must be sealed.

Consider the stages of installation of several design options.

absorbent

Owners of small country estates, who decide to make an elementary sewer with their own hands, most often choose this option. It attracts the simplest design and the ability not to use the services of vacuum trucks too often. The walls can be laid out of bricks or gas silicate blocks, but it is easier and faster to build them by installing concrete rings on top of each other.

It is much faster to build walls from gas silicate blocks than to lay them out of bricks, it is even faster to make a pit from concrete rings, but a crane is required to install them

Sealed

The principle of construction is similar, only it is not necessary to form holes for the infiltration of treated effluents and the bottom must be completely concreted. It is advisable to reinforce the lower concrete platform by laying a concrete mesh on the bottom before pouring. So that the reinforcement does not “drown” in concrete, it must be slightly raised above the surface and fixed on pegs.

An important aspect: it is recommended to seal the walls. A cheap option for internal insulation is bitumen; on the outside, a home-made sewer object can simply be coated with clay. If the walls of the pit were built of brick, they can be plastered.

The standard design of a sealed cesspool with a concrete bottom, the walls can be built from concrete rings, laid out with bricks or gas silicate blocks, make a monolithic container, pour concrete into the formwork

Brickwork will take significantly more time than the installation of concrete rings. At the bottom, by analogy, a concrete screed is arranged, and bricks can be laid both in a circle and by “drawing” a square or rectangle in the perimeter. The poured concrete platform must “ripen” before laying, standing for 7-8 days.

Important. During the laying period, it is necessary to form holes for the supply of a sewer pipe. The connection point is located below the level of freezing recorded by local weather services.

The sewer pipeline to the waste collection point should be slightly inclined to ensure spontaneous movement of the contaminated mass.

The pipe introducing wastewater into the pit must be located below the freezing level, the pipeline must be laid at an angle to ensure spontaneous movement of waste masses

Installation of ready-made complexes

It is impossible to think of anything simpler and more convenient than their use; the arrangement of a cesspool from precisely sized components is carried out extremely quickly. The only drawback: the volume parameters specified by the manufacturer. But they produce a factory product mainly with the expectation of an average consumer. That is, it is not difficult to find the necessary kit.

There are many ways and methods to make a cesspool. From the variety of options, it remains to choose the optimal type of construction that meets the needs. Which costs are more important, what is the best way to save money, choose the owner and contractor himself, and knowing the design differences will help you make the right decision.

Not all settlements located at some distance from the city are equipped with a central sewer system. A brick cesspool allows you to solve almost all the problems associated with the removal of sewage from the house. It is incredibly easy to build and operate, and also belongs to the most affordable options for organizing sewage pits.

The main advantage of a brick cesspool is the simplicity of its design. This drain container can be round or square. The depth depends on the required volume, the standard value is 2 meters. Earthen walls are reinforced with brick blocks, depending on whether the pit is closed or open; the bottom is similarly equipped.

Photo example of a multi-chamber cesspool

Sewer pipes run from the house to the tank. In the places of their connection, branch pipes are removed from the brick walls. This makes it possible to ensure a hermetic connection of the outlets.

Advantages of a brick pit:

1. High tightness. During the shelf life, the drain effectively protects the soil from the penetration of feces or poisonous liquids into it;
2. Resistance to aggressive external factors. Cement and ceramics perfectly tolerate the aggressive effects of the environment, they are not afraid of temperature changes or pressure of earth masses. Unlike more elastic, polymer structures, brick structures do not need to be additionally insulated or protected with a metal casing;
3. Ease of arrangement. To build such a drain pit, no special knowledge is required. The main requirements for the depth and thickness of the walls are given in public standards. For the organization of joints, a standard cement mixture of M500 concrete is used;
4. Affordable price. The cost of a drain pit made of bricks (subject to independent work) is an order of magnitude lower than the arrangement of a tank made of plastic or a metal barrel.

But the brick drain structure has some disadvantages. In particular, it is a short service life. Cement and ceramic bricks under long-term exposure to high humidity and aggressive compounds decompose within 15 years. After the expiration of this period, the tank will begin to let runoff into the ground and groundwater, which can poison them.

The brick pit silts up very quickly. Many masters solve this issue by organizing multi-chamber drains. In this design, solid waste remains in the "black" compartment, and the liquid flows into the "finishing" sump. This will significantly save on sewage services.

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Initially, you need to choose the right place to place the drain drain. According to the law, for any violation of the construction or use of the cesspool, the homeowner will be required to pay a fine. What are the requirements put forward by SNiP for the construction of a brick pit of a closed type:

1. The minimum distance from the fence or fence should be at least 8 meters. At the same time, it is permissible for the pit to be located no further than 3 meters from the highway or any other road;
2. A distance of 15 meters is maintained from the facade of a residential building;
3. If the site has a well, well or reservoir, then they need to retreat from 20 to 50 meters. According to the latest SES requirements: the further, the better;
4. To preserve the health of the soil, 30 meters are kept from the garden or fruit-bearing garden.

Failure to comply with any of the listed requirements is equated to a violation of environmental safety. As a punishment, you will have to pay several thousand rubles in case of a secondary violation. In the future, the amount will increase several times.

Volume calculation

To calculate the size of the pit of the future cesspool, you need to find out how much wastewater will flow into the tank daily. For one adult, the amount of waste per day is accepted - 150 liters, for a child - half as much. Similarly, absolutely all appliances that will be connected to the sewer (washing machine, dishwasher, shower, etc.) are taken into account.

To calculate the required volume of the cesspool, the following formula is used:

Number of drains * number of residents \u003d daily consumption.

For example, 150*3+75=525 liters. Accordingly - 0.5 m 3.

It is recommended to clean a brick cesspool at least once every 2 weeks. In many ways, this is not due to its overcrowding, but to avoid silting of the bottom and artificial reduction in volume. Therefore, in the following formula, we will add the number of days:

15*525=7875 liters or 7.8 cubic meters. Values ​​are always rounded up, hence a cesspool with a volume of at least 8 m 3 is taken for a family of three adults and one child.

Do-it-yourself cesspool arrangement

At the site of the future pit, you need to remove all weeds and debris that may interfere with the laying of bricks. The pit under the cesspool should slightly exceed its dimensions, since in the future it will be further strengthened with struts. In addition, please note that the optimal wall width of a brick septic tank is at least 0.25 meters.

Every two weeks, it is necessary to organize a sewage cleaning of the cesspool and the removal of effluents outside the site. Twice a year (in spring and autumn) a brick cesspool structure is inspected. In particular, attention should be paid to the places where the sewerage from the house is connected to the drain tank.

The simplest local sewer network in a suburban area is a structure that includes a cesspool. It can be made from different materials: reinforced concrete rings, brick or concrete blocks, containers of different sizes and types. In this article, a brick cesspool will be considered.

The construction of a brick pit for collecting sewage consists of several stages. But at the very beginning, it is necessary to decide where this collection tank will be located, what size it will be, and so on.

Choosing a place for a cesspool

Determination of the location of the cesspool:

• No closer than 5 m from the foundation of the house;
• From the fence (fence of the site) no closer than 2 m;
• No closer than 30 m from a water intake well or well.

Plumbing advice: Care must be taken to ensure that the cesspool is located conveniently for the entrance of a sewage truck, if in the future it is planned to clean the pit with its help, and not with your own hands

Volume determination

It is believed that a person needs 200 liters of water for domestic needs. Multiply this number by the number of people living in the house. This will be the daily filling of the pit. A certain percentage of effluents will go into the ground, a small percentage will evaporate. In addition, it must be borne in mind that drains should not overflow over the edge, therefore it is recommended to take the volume of the cesspool with a small margin.

And one moment. Don't dig the hole too deep. The optimal depth is 3m.

Stages of construction of a cesspool made of bricks

Excavation

If the location of the well is established and its volume is calculated, you can proceed to the construction processes. The most time-consuming of them is to dig the hole itself. Doing it yourself with shovels is not difficult, but you will have to spend a lot of time and effort.

The optimal shape of the cesspool is a square or rectangle. So that the walls of the pit do not collapse, it is necessary to dig it with a narrowing towards the bottom. At the same time, it is necessary to carry out their compaction.

Please note that the bottom of the pit should be slightly sloping towards the location of the hatch. So it will be more effective to clean the well from sewage.

Preparatory stage

The bottom of the pit is covered with sand 15-20 cm thick. It must be compacted and poured with water. Then a concrete solution is prepared, with which the bottom is concreted. Be sure to lay a reinforcing frame made of metal reinforcement or mesh in the concrete layer. A concrete layer with a thickness of 15-20 cm must be kept for more than a week in order for the material to become durable.

I would like to note that ready-made concrete bottoms can be purchased on the market, which can be installed on the bottom of the pit with the help of a crane.

Bricklaying

To do this, you can use the usual burnt brick. But the masonry mortar should be based on clay with a small content of sand (15-20%). This is a waterproof material that will repel water from the brickwork itself, which will increase the life of the cesspool.

Bricklaying is carried out according to the usual technology with a bandage. Experts recommend making a kind of screed based on a cement-sand mortar through every fourth row, on which the next row is immediately laid. The thickness of the masonry is at least 25 cm.

As soon as the masonry process is over, it is necessary to coat the walls of the pit both inside and outside with clay mortar. This is a protective screen, which, in fact, will perform the functions of waterproofing. And the thicker the layer of clay, the better. Of course, inside it will reduce the volume of the well itself, so it is better to increase the thickness of the clay layer outside the brickwork.

Now you need to wait for the clay to dry well. After that, it must be treated with hot bitumen or special bituminous mastic.

Final stage

The cesspool is almost ready, it remains only to install the cover. There are two options here:

1. To order a ceiling from the factory of reinforced concrete products, which can only be installed by a crane. But this option is guaranteed to be of high quality with a hatch and a ventilation hole;
2. Make your own cover.

To do this, it will be necessary to construct a formwork, make a reinforcing frame and pour the ceiling with concrete directly at the installation site. It will have to stand in the formwork for at least a week. Do not forget to arrange a hatch and a ventilation pipe in the lid.

Often, the cesspool cover is poured on the ground into the formwork, and after drying, it is installed on the edges of a brick well. But in this case, you can not do without a crane. The floor is filled in several layers:

• First, a concrete layer with a thickness of 7-10 cm is poured;
• Then, while the concrete mortar is not very dry, a reinforcing frame of reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm is laid. The frame will have to be pre-made with cells of 10x10 cm;
• Then the second layer of concrete is poured with a thickness of 10-12 cm.

Plumbing advice: The size of the overlap should be larger than the size of the pit itself at the edges by half a meter

And lastly, the space between the walls of the brickwork and the pit is backfilled. For this, soil is used, which was taken out of the pit. The overlap is also covered with soil to hide the well and not spoil the landscape of the suburban area. It remains only to install the pipe on the exhaust ventilation pipe and the hatch. It is better to make the hatch double with a heater.