How to make a do-it-yourself sauna stove from metal drawings dimensions. Metal stove-heater, is it suitable for a bath? How to make a heater, a blower and a firebox

Assembling a heater for your own bath is a very bold and responsible decision. However, there is no need to invent anything new. Let's take a closer look at the design of a dry steam heater, select the material and determine the optimal order of work.

For example, consider one of standard designs for dry steam and supplement it with a remote firebox, a convenient ash pan and an additional heat exchanger.

From what, with what and how to cook a stove for a bath

Structural steel exhibits exemplary strength and hardness at normal temperatures, but not in wood stove when heated above 400 °C. All processes, chemical and physical, in heated steel are accelerated a thousandfold: scale formation, carbon burnout, thermal fatigue and linear deformation. Bottom line - choose heat-resistant steel for the zone high temperatures not so easy.

There are two ways to solve the problem: increasing the thickness of the metal over 12-14 mm to increase the service life of the furnace or using steel with a high (more than 18%) chromium content. The latter is often difficult due to the need to master MIG / MAG or TIG welding in order to connect parts, as well as due to the low availability of special rolled metal. But if there is an opportunity, choose heat-resistant AISI-310S (its analogue 20X23H18) for the firebox in annealed sheets 6-8 mm thick.

There is another enough effective solution, which helps to reduce corrosive wear - cooling the lower part of the furnace with a water circuit or air convection. The heat exchangers included in the design of the firebox must be made of the same steel. All other elements: the neck, chimney and body, are allowed to be welded from structural carbon steel with conventional rutile-coated electrodes.

But with a firebox everything is more difficult: parts should be welded with a non-consumable electrode using a flux additive containing sulfur and titanium in an intermediate form. Preliminarily carry out a couple of experimental welds on scraps of the same thickness in order to establish the minimum current required for welding. The weld pool is protected with argon at about 7 m 3 /h. With absence special types arc welding, it is possible to weld parts of conventional MMA using OK-67.13(15) electrodes.

We dissolve sheets: drawings and dimensions of parts

First, let's decide on the size of the firebox. A chamber wider than 300 mm will be too spacious for the concentration of the temperature center above 450 ° C, and without this, the combustion of pyrolysis gases (and the efficiency of the heater) will be less than expected. The length of the furnace should be sufficient for laying logs over 300 mm, in total - about 750-800 mm. The height of the furnace must correspond to the flame of firewood - at least 650 mm. Also, the volume of fuel loading depends on the height, proceed from the calculation of 1.3-1.5 kg of dry firewood per 1 m 3 of the steam room.

Based on this, we cut out four rectangles:

• 650x800 mm - two side walls;
• 300x500 mm - firebox cover;
• 300x650 mm - front and rear walls.
• 290x400 mm - internal partition.

You will also need two rectangular strips 50x580 mm and a dozen kerchiefs in the shape of an isosceles right triangle with leg 50 mm.

The next question is the cooling of the firebox. If air convection is planned, weld on the back and side walls vertical ribs 45 mm wide and length along the height of the furnace every 80 mm, a total of 24 pieces.

Water cooling allows the use of thinner steel (4-5 mm), but the heat exchanger must be included in the heating or water treatment system with a total heat capacity of at least 65 liters for a warm floor and 150 liters for a tank. The heat exchanger is made of a welded box up to 70 mm thick along the rear and side walls of the furnace. You will need:

1. Two side walls - 350x880 mm.
2. Rear wall - 350x440 mm.
3. Strip 70x885 mm (4 pcs.), 70x360 mm (2 pcs.) and 70x300 mm (2 pcs.).

In addition, you will need about three meters of 50x50 mm corner steel, up to four meters of 75x75 mm and up to 0.5 m 2 of carbon steel sheet 3.5-4.5 mm thick. When cutting parts, chamfer on both sides a third of the thickness of the metal.

Firebox manufacturing

On the side walls we mark 50 mm from the bottom, along this line you need to set it perpendicular and grab the strips 50 mm wide, then install and weld triangular scarves from the bottom with a distance of 100-150 mm, six for each wall. Lay 2-3 grates 300 mm wide on the resulting shelves, and cover the remaining gap at the back wall with a stainless steel sheet.

Next, turn the walls over to the top edge and mark 300 mm from the back of them. Install and tack the partition, check the perpendicularity of the inner corners, the diagonals of the walls and scald the two vertical seams completely. When welding firebox parts, first lay the root seam on the inside, and then cover it with two protective layers inside and out without deep penetration.

Install and weld the front wall with a solid seam, and pre-cut in the back round hole with a diameter of 110 mm with an indent of 110 mm down from top edge. Weld a sleeve from a black pipe into the hole, if welding is not possible, install a flange connection or twist a strip of stainless steel into a pipe.

At the end of the assembly, a tank or ribs are welded around the firebox air cooling. Do not forget to cut two pieces of stainless steel tube 25 mm with 4-5 turns of pipe thread at diametrically opposite points of the water heat exchanger.

Foundation and stone

The firebox is installed on a frame welded from the 50th corner with the shelves inside. The inner perimeter must exactly match the dimensions of the bottom of the firebox. The frame stands on legs with a free clearance of 200 mm. If you do not plan to brick the heater, sheathe the bottom, back and sides of the base with thin sheet steel.

The same frame, but with the shelves outward and from the 75th corner steel, is welded exactly along the upper girth of the firebox. Closer to the back, add another jumper so that the inside of the corner shelf fits snugly against the partition, forming a square cell 300x300 mm. A tank is inserted into this opening, with dimensions of 250x250 and a height of 500 mm. Make it from sheet steel with a thickness of about 4 mm, 100 mm from the top edge on the outside, add a belt of angle steel, with which the tank will rest on the frame.

The resulting structure is installed on top of the firebox, scalded around the perimeter with steel sides about 150-200 mm high and filled with stones. The tank is used to heat the water, and the rest of the surface of the heater "catches up" the steam to the desired temperature. Will good decision stretch a pair of 3/4 inch tubes with frequent 6 mm holes in the walls from the bottom of the tank to the bottom of the heater. At the same time, the tank itself must be covered with a lid, leaving a tube in the center - a water dispenser.

Casing or lining

If you are using air convection, it will be correct to wrap the oven in a thin sheet steel casing. You can fasten it to the frame from the 75th corner, and then repeat the fastening in the lower part, having previously welded several “tongues” with holes and threads onto the firebox.

With water cooling, the casing is also appropriate, but it is better to overlay the heater decorative brick or sandstone. The masonry, like the casing, is brought out flush with the sides of the heater or slightly lower.

We complete the installation: firebox, ash pan and chimney

After assembling the furnace, mark and cut an opening on the front wall, the size of the existing furnace door. According to the same dimensions, from stainless steel scraps, weld cuffs with a depth of at least 170 mm or the thickness of the partition, if you take the door into the dressing room.

An ash pan in such a stove - regular box 250 mm wide, 200 mm high and the full length of the firebox. In the front part, the wall should be wider than the box by 50 mm in both directions and 100 mm upwards.

The chimney can be pulled with a sandwich pipe or an ordinary steel channel. We put a swivel elbow on the sleeve in the back wall and seal it with a glass cord, then we caulk the corners of the base and the heater with the same cord, do not forget about the partition inside the firebox. After laying the stones, the furnace is ready for operation, but it is recommended to melt it outside before installation in order to ignite and burn out the remnants of the factory rolling grease.

Some people prefer to make stove equipment for a bath on their own. This is due not only to the economy mode, but also the ability to assemble exactly the stove that is suitable for a particular room. If you are also going to make a do-it-yourself sauna stove from metal with a water tank, the drawing is far from the only thing you will need. Knowledge, ability to read blueprints, appropriate tools and materials. And in any case, a home-made stove will allow you to rationally spend money and translate all your ideas into the unit.

The quality and benefits of a bath largely depend on which stove is installed and how it works. The difference between a real Russian bath and a hammam or sauna lies in the high (over 70%) humidity in the room at a temperature of at least 80 0 C.

Often such a stove is made of stone, for which fireclay (clay) bricks or granite are suitable. Any other stones simply will not withstand the heat and may burst when water hits them. IN Lately metal stoves began to be popular, which are in no way inferior to stone stoves. Such ovens can be purchased at most specialized stores, but each of them will need fine-tuning. Do-it-yourself stoves are much more economical, but just as efficient.

Video 1 Sauna stove

Homemade models

There are 2 main constructive varieties of homemade sauna stoves:

• vertical, which can be made from a thick-walled pipe of the appropriate diameter;
• horizontal, based on metal barrel or an inactive gas cylinder.

In this article we will tell you how to make each do-it-yourself sauna stove from metal with a water tank - drawings, detailed description, list of materials and recommendations of specialists.

Horizontal

The drawing of a horizontal stove for a bath is quite simple. According to the same principle, with minor modifications, the Heat ovens are manufactured.

• angular grinder machine(Bulgarian);
• two pipe fragments 10-12 mm long, 750 mm long, 500 mm in diameter;
• fragment of a pipe 350 mm with a diameter of 200 mm;
• chimney pipe with a diameter of 114 mm;
• reinforcement or rods;
• 2 sets of door hinges;
• 3-5 metal sheets 8-ka;
• 4 sheets of stainless steel from which the tank will be welded;
• tap.

The design of the furnace provides for the possibility of installing a tank both on the furnace body and separately. The heating time varies slightly.

1. The main pipe 750 mm is located horizontally, this will be the furnace body. For stability, you can immediately weld a stand on it. Often the supports are made from end pieces, this adds aesthetics and the stove looks more finished.
2. A third of the diameter was measured from the lower boundary of the pipe, and from this point you measure the distance from the wall to the wall of the pipe.
3. Cut out a rectangle from a steel sheet, where the smaller side will be equal to this distance, and the larger one - 75 cm. This is the future base for firewood.
4. In the center of the cut out rectangle, cut out a square for the grate. The size of the square should match the finished grate, or weld rods or reinforcement here.
5. Insert the resulting structure into the pipe and weld along the edges.
6. For the manufacture of end sidewalls from steel sheets, cut out 2 rectangles 70 x 53 cm and fix them on the main pipe by welding.
7. For future doors of the blower and firebox, cut holes on the front part. Weld the hinges and put on the doors.
8. On the top of the pipe, make a hole for the chimney. Its diameter is not critical, but should not differ greatly from the size of the chimney. Put on the pipe and brew it. The chimney itself can be put on at the very end so that it does not interfere with further work.
9. Cut a 350 mm pipe into 2 equal parts, after which you weld the edge of one of them. Exactly in the center, make a hole for the chimney pipe so that the diameters match. Cover the case with a lid so that the holes do not match. This direction failure is designed to keep the smoke out and keep the stove warm. The whole structure is welded.
10. You weld a basket for stones from reinforcement or steel bars, install it above the firebox, putting it on a hemisphere (see diagram).
11. Weld a tank from stainless steel suitable diameter, separately for it you make a removable cover with a handle and fasteners on which the tank will be hung.

Video 2 We make a metal sauna stove with our own hands from A to Z

Vertical model

It should be noted that the choice of design depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe steam room or the room where it will be installed and the ability to work with the material. If there is a desire and faith in one's own strength, in order to make a do-it-yourself sauna stove from metal with a water tank, the drawing is the most important thing.

Experienced craftsmen consider this type of furnace to be the least efficient and very impractical. In order for the stove to cope with its tasks, the water tank must be placed at the top.

Necessary tools and materials:

• welding machine and electrodes;
• Bulgarian;
• brush for cleaning seams (if you have experience, you can clean it with a grinder);
• 1.5-meter fragment of a pipe 8-10 mm thick with a diameter of 500-550 mm;
• 2-meter pipe with a diameter of 100 mm;
• a metal sheet 10-14 mm;
• paint for metal;
• firebox door

All materials can be purchased at scrap metal collection points, but they must all be solid, without corrosion holes.

• Cut a pipe with a diameter of 500-550 mm lengthwise into 3 segments of approximately the same length.
• A firebox is made from the first fragment, for which 2 circles of the corresponding diameter are cut out of a metal sheet and the bottom and top of the pipe are welded.
• A hole is cut out on the front side of this pipe for loading fuel, after which hinges are welded to it and a door is put on.
• On the upper part of the pipe (in the lid), a grinder cuts a hole with a diameter of 85-90 mm, to which a 100 mm pipe is welded. This is the future chimney.
• The basis of the design does not imply the presence of an ash pan and, accordingly, a grate for separating the combustion chamber. If you wish, you can make such an element (see above), but at the same time, the height of the furnace should not be less than 500 mm.

According to a similar principle, furnaces for the Finnish bath are made.

There are more efficient types of stoves, where the chimney is installed from the second chamber. But in this case, you will have to cut several holes on the top.

• After the firebox is finished, a second piece of pipe 750 mm is put on it and welded around the perimeter. This bunker will contain stones for the future furnace, which is responsible for proper heat exchange in the steam room.

This is how a ready-made vertical stove for a bath looks schematically in a section:

In each compartment, it is necessary to make a hole for the chimney pipe. All junctions of the compartments with the pipe are carefully welded, and the seams are cleaned.

• A tank will be created from the third pipe fragment, which is also put on the finished structure and welded around the perimeter. The heating of water in this compartment will be carried out simultaneously from the metal and the gases released during combustion moving up the chimney.

When using electric arc welding, it is necessary to use electrodes for the corresponding metal so that the seam that is created during the welding process heats up at the same time and does not burst.

• The lid for the tank is cut according to the diameter of the pipe from a thick-walled sheet in such a way as to go around the chimney. Some craftsmen are used to cover wooden shields, but this is impractical.

Upon completion of all work, the seams are cleaned with a grinder or a metal brush, the stove is primed and covered with a special heat-resistant paint for metal. The price of such paint is quite high, but it will last at least 10-15 years regular operation ovens.

1. For simultaneous and uniform heating of the steam room and dressing room, the stove should be installed in 2 rooms. At the same time, the loaded firebox is located in the dressing room, and the container with stones and the water tank are in the steam room. This will make operation more efficient and safer.
2. The wall in which the oven is to be installed must not be made of flammable materials. If this is not possible, the wall should be separated from the furnace with asbestos sheets, sewn, in turn, with metal.
3. Before using the oven, it is necessary to make and repeatedly check supply and exhaust ventilation. This will eliminate the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning.

As you can see, anyone can make a do-it-yourself sauna stove from metal with a water tank - a drawing, step-by-step explanations, videos and recommendations from the masters will help you with this.

Perhaps you have already built your own or are just planning to do so. In this case, know how to do iron stoves for a bath with your own hands is simply necessary. surpass the mentioned heaters in some parameters, but to find good master and negotiating a reasonable price is quite difficult.

Weigh all the pros and cons

Impossible to do right choice without considering all the pitfalls. Positive sides:

• Ease of installation. Usually installation comes down to choosing a place and. In some cases, the firebox is located in a rest room or dressing room, then it is necessary to provide an appropriate opening in the partition.
• Ease of maintenance and repair. It is much easier to clean such a structure than a brick one.
• Ease of installation of a tank for heating water.
• Fast heating. Brick counterparts may take up to 5 hours to develop the temperature that a metal furnace will gain in 1 hour.
• Availability of materials for self-assembly.
• The possibility of a creative approach. You can assemble the structure in such a way that it will be better suited to the overall interior.

The disadvantages of this design are:

• The complexity of creating steam conditions for a real Russian bath.
• Strong heating of the unit itself, which can lead to burns.
• Rapid cooling. If you plan to stay in the bathhouse for several hours, then it will need to be heated periodically.
• High fire hazard if installed incorrectly.

Note! In order to make it easier to perform assembly and subsequent installation, it would be good to prepare approximate drawings of the entire structure before starting work.

separate foundation

Whichever option you decide to use, it is important that a separate foundation is laid under the furnace. This is done in order to reduce the load on the logs, as well as to prevent the possibility of ignition of the floor covering and subsequently the entire bath.

Note! You can install the purchased metal furnace without a foundation, but a home-made structure usually has a lot of weight, so it’s better to make a powerful base for it.

The foundation must be calculated at the design stage. This is very important, because if you use pile foundation it is desirable to place an additional support element under the heater. When the whole structure is ready, it will be impossible to do so. But there is a way out of every situation and you can make a concrete support. For this you will need the following:

• Exactly under the location of the stove, a hole is dug 50 cm deep. Its dimensions should exceed the length and width of the stove by 5–10 cm.
• A layer of sand of 10 cm is laid at the bottom. It is well rammed, after which it is wetted with water. After drying, sprinkle required amount and rammed again.
• A metal crate is made and laid on brick supports. At high altitude you will need two gratings (more than 80 cm). Can be done up to a certain level concrete base, and the rest to report with a brick.
• Formwork shields are knocked down from the board. It is desirable that there is no gap between the planks. Whenever possible, it is best to use laminated plywood, then the design will turn out with even ends.
• The solution is poured inside and well compacted. It is better to do this with a vibrator to fill all the cracks and cavities.
• It is necessary to raise the foundation a few centimeters above the level of the finished floor.
• Waterproofing from roofing material or bikrost is laid on top to cut off moisture from entering the furnace and inside the room.

Note! In areas where there is high ground mobility or very unstable upper layer, it is necessary to go deep below the level of freezing. Only in this case it will be possible to provide the required emphasis.

Oven from car rims

This option is one of the easiest to make. Of the components, you will need 4 disks from a KamAZ truck (if there are plans to install a water tank, then 2 more disks will be needed) and sheet metal 8 mm thick.

• Sheet metal is cut according to the diameter of the disc hole. A window is made in the middle with a size of 20 × 30 cm. Metal rods with a diameter of 12 mm are welded through each cm. They will serve as grates. Then this part is fixed to one of the ends of the rim.
• The second disc on one side is closed in exactly the same way. But in the lid it is necessary to make a hole for the chimney adapter.
• Two disks are interconnected. It is necessary to ensure that the seam is without shells, this is necessary to ensure good traction.
• Using a grinder or a plasma cutter, a door for loading firewood is cut out. Its dimensions can be 20 × 30 cm.
• Improvised loops are made from reinforcement, which is bent with hooks and nuts. Can be used turnkey solutions for welded products. The damper is installed in its place. A locking mechanism is being made.
• Another disk is fixed from below, it will serve as a blower. A hole of 15 × 30 cm is made in it. A box for collecting ash is made of the same size. It will be located just under the grate, so the burnt-out coals will fall into it, it will be enough just to shake it into a bucket.
• A disk is attached on top, which will serve as a container for stones. Its ends can not be closed with plugs.
• In order to make a water tank, two wheel bases are welded together. Their ends are covered with sheet metal. Two holes are made in the middle and a sleeve is inserted into them. According to the inner diameter, it must be larger than the chimney so that it can be freely passed through.
• A ½" branch pipe with a thread for a tap is welded into the wall of the tank. It can be installed directly on the structure or brought out and mounted on the wall through a metal hose.
• To fill the liquid, you can fix another branch pipe for supplying the hose. There is another option - a small door is made in the upper end.

Note! For steam rooms for one person, you can make an even smaller version. For him, you need disks from the Volga. The principle will be exactly the same as described above.

In order to assemble this option, you will need a pipe with an outer diameter of 50 cm (preferably at least 70 cm long), it is better if the wall thickness is 8 mm. Additionally, you need sheet metal 8 mm and round timber with a diameter of 10-12 mm.

• To make it easier to imagine the workflow, you need to know that in the end the pipe will be located in a horizontal position.
• An indent of 10 – 15 cm is taken from one of the edges. A cut-out measuring 20 × 35 cm is made. A grate is welded on the inside from pieces of reinforcement. Instead, you can purchase cast iron and make a cutout clearly under it. In this case, it will be removable, which will facilitate the cleaning of the oven.
• Diagonally from the installed grate with an indent of 5 cm from the edge, a hole is made for the chimney pipe. It is inserted and boils well.
• The end, which is closer to the pipe, is closed with sheet material. The upper part is cut out in the shape of a circle, and the lower one remains rectangular, it will serve as a stand.
• The second end is closed in exactly the same way.
• If it is planned that it will be possible to throw firewood from the steam room itself, then it is enough to cut out a window with dimensions of 20 × 33 cm and fix the door according to the principle as described in the previous version. When the opening of the firebox should go into the rest room, then it is necessary to make an additional ledge. For this, the width of the partition is measured. Rectangles 20 and 33 cm long are cut out, and 5 cm wide more than the width of the wall. They are welded around the cut hole in the end, and the door is fixed to them.
• A container with a size of 35 × 25 × 15 cm is welded under the grate. A hole 25 × 15 cm in size is cut out in the sheet that closes the end of the pipe, it is necessary to install a scoop to collect ash in it. The thrust will depend on how far it is extended.
• A container 40 × 20 × 50 cm is made of sheet material. It is welded to the back of the stove and will serve to heat water. At the top end of the tank there is a door for pouring water. A ½" threaded pipe for a tap cuts into the lower part.
• In order to lay stones on top, it is necessary to prepare a structure that resembles a box without a bottom. Its dimensions are 20 × 40 × 20 cm. In this case, the end walls must follow the contour of the circle in order to lie back to back.

Note! If there are children in the family, then the whole structure can be interestingly decorated. For example, it can be made to look like a small train. To do this, a bump stop is welded under the firebox, like a real locomotive, and round blanks for wheels are on the sides.

In this case, there will be a lot of options. You can design for specific conditions. We will consider one design that you can customize to suit your conditions.

• From sheet metal blanks are cut in 8 mm. Five are 60×40 cm, two more are 40×40 cm.
• One wall is attached to the bottom. It is fixed with welding machine a few grips. A metal square adjusts the angle to 90 °. The rear wall 40 × 40 cm is attached and is attached to the bottom and side wall. The angle is checked again, if everything matches, then you can boil all the seams well.
• The next step is to attach another side wall.
• On the inside, on the sides, at a height of 15 cm, two 3 × 3 cm corners are attached. They do not have to pass through the entire length. Their goal is a shelf for internal partition so it's easier to mount it. It is laid on stands and boiled around the entire perimeter.
• A 20x30 cut is made in it. A finished grate is welded onto it or made from round reinforcement.
• The upper part of the structure is fixed and boiled.
• At a distance of 5–7 cm from the rear wall, a cutout is made in the upper end for the chimney pipe. It is inserted into its place and boiled around the circumference.
• The front wall is mounted. A cutout of 20 × 20 cm is made in it under the door for loading logs. Below, where the ash collection compartment is located, a window 20 × 10 cm in size is made. A scoop of the same size is made under it. It will be a draft regulator, and will also allow you to quickly clean the stove after heating.
• To organize the heater, it is necessary to weld the sides on top. Their height will depend on how many pebbles need to be placed.
• The water tank can be welded to one of the side walls. It is made according to the principle as described for the previous version.

Note! It is better that the heater does not close the space around the pipe. The fact is that the stones retain their temperature well, and this increases the rate of burnout of the seams.

Proper installation of the oven indoors ensures that the desired temperature is reached.

• If the loading of firewood will be carried out in the steam room itself, then the opening of the firebox should look towards the door. It is very important that there is sufficient air flow. This rule is irrelevant when logs are thrown from the rest room.
• The oven heats up to high temperatures, which can lead to spoilage finishing material to prevent this from happening, it is necessary to protect the space around the heater. To do this, refractory bricks can be laid around the perimeter under the jointing, this will improve the appearance and prevent overheating.
• The inside of the chimney can be made using sandwich technology (two pipes, one inside the other, and a refractory insulation is laid between them). This will prevent possible burns.
• The place where the pipe passes through the ceiling or wall is additionally lined with refractory material, and stainless steel sheets can also be fixed.
• The oven should be as close as possible to the seat shelf, but at a sufficient distance so that you can safely move around without danger of getting burned.

Note! Be sure to install a thermometer inside and hourglass. This will allow you to control the maximum temperature and time spent in the middle. If you do not follow this, you can get a heat stroke, the consequences of which are very sad.

We are very interested to know how you managed to realize your project. Share your solutions, as well as links to photos in the comments.

Video

This video shows how to make a good stove for a bath from a pipe:

There are a lot of metal stoves for a bath on sale, but good ones cost a lot of money. If you have sufficient experience in welding metal, you can make the furnace yourself, according to your size. About how to make a stove for a bath from metal (sheet), drawings and photos - further.

• 1 Metal stove for baths and saunas - what's the difference
• 2 Homemade stoves for the Russian bath
  • 2.1 Kamenka: what size and where
  • 2.2 Drawings of homemade bath metal stoves
• 3 How to make a sauna stove
  • 3.1 Drawings and diagrams

Metal stove for baths and saunas - what's the difference

There is a significant difference between the modes of soaring in a bath and a sauna. In the sauna, the air temperature is very high - from 85C and much higher. At such a temperature, the humidity simply cannot be high - you will immediately get burned, and the broom will crumble in five minutes. And it is really small, about 5-15%. In the Russian steam room, the temperature is kept within 55-65°C, occasionally rising to 70°C. At such temperatures, the humidity "catch up" more - 50-60%.

One of the options for a welded sauna stove

To ensure such different tasks different approaches are required to build a furnace. The sauna requires the largest area of ​​contact between the body of the furnace and the surrounding air and the acceleration of the passage of air flows along the walls. Everything is subordinated to the task of heating the air in the steam room as soon as possible. There is a heater, but it is small, open, usually located above the firebox. The stones in it warm up to a maximum of 200-250 ° C, since they give off a lot of heat to the surrounding air. You can get a little steam from such a heater. But in the sauna you don’t need much - one / two ladles will give 15% humidity. Just can't take it anymore.

In the Russian steam room, the task is different - not to overheat the room and achieve a large amount of steam. Moreover, the steam must be of a certain condition - it must consist of very small droplets. It is also called "dry" and it has a high temperature - about 130-150 ° C. Under this condition, after soaring in the body, lightness and a surge of strength are felt. Such steam is obtained only from hot stones, the temperature of which is at least 500 ° C. To reach it, the stones are “packed” inside the furnace - a box is placed in it - a closed heater.

Here the heater is located inside and a tank is attached on top

As you can see, there are solid design differences. They must be kept in mind.

Homemade stoves for the Russian bath

What else should be kept in mind when designing a stove for the Russian steam room mode? The fact that having heated metal walls to keep the temperature within the required 60-65 ° C is unrealistic. Be sure to recycle. At the same time, hard IR radiation comes from the walls of the furnace and it is difficult to be nearby. The problem is solved in two ways:

Another thing to talk about is seams. IN homemade ovens from metal (in the factory, in principle, too) often burnout begins precisely from the seams. In production, this problem is circumvented with the help of bent structures. In the upper part, they try to avoid seams altogether. When making a do-it-yourself sauna stove, you are unlikely to be able to bend a sheet of metal 6-10 mm thick, so there is only one thing left - to make the seams as high quality as possible.

Kamenka: what size and where

The required number of stones depends on the volume of the steam room (provided that the bath is insulated normally). IN different sources there are different recommendations with more or less - from 20 to 40 kg per 1 m3. In principle, the more stones, the easier it is to get the required amount of steam, but on condition that the stove has enough power to heat them.

The problem is that the stones different breed have different densities, and, consequently, the same mass occupies a different volume. In principle, for an average steam room with a volume of 12-14 m3, the dimensions of the heater are approximately the following: 30 * 40 * 30 mm. The parameters can be slightly changed, made wider / narrower / higher - look at the design of the furnace.

The heater may be different shapes and size

The ratio of the volume of the furnace to the volume of the heater is a complex heat engineering calculation, which not even every heat engineer is able to master. It is much easier to use ready-made drawings or experimentally determined proportions. As a minimum, the volume of the firebox "free" from the heater should not be less. Better if even more by about 30-50%.

A little about where in the firebox it is best to place a box for stones. Everyone has long come to the conclusion that the highest temperature is in the upper part and at the back wall. This is where it makes sense to place the container. Firstly, part of the thermal load from the roof of the furnace will be removed, and secondly, the stones will heat up well.

Do not forget about the maintenance of the heater and that water must somehow get there. The service hatch must be positioned in such a way that you can easily reach the very far edge. And the water supply deep into the heater must be organized so as not to get burned. Usually, a tube or a system of tubes is inserted, which diverge over the entire plane of the stone container. From the side of the room, this tube ends with a funnel. The pipe is lined with stones. When water is supplied to it, it is distributed over the surface of the heater / stones and evaporates.

Drawings of homemade metal sauna stoves

This stove is designed for a steam room 2 * 3 * 2.3 m. It was cooked from sheet metal 3 mm thick.

Metal stove for a bath with a closed heater

To activate combustion, an additional air duct is connected, laid from the street. Other solutions include stiffeners (corners) welded to the sides of the firebox in the upper part of the firebox so that the metal does not bend when heated.

The following diagram of a metal stove for a bath is made with air supply to upper part furnaces. These are the so-called furnaces with afterburning gases. A metal plate is welded on the back wall. In the gap between this plate and the rear wall of the furnace, air is supplied from under the grates with the help of air ducts. This simple, it seems, the device solves two problems at once. First, it cools back wall, reducing the chance of burnout. Secondly, the air is supplied to the upper part heated. Flue gases heated to high temperatures are concentrated there, most of which is combustible (up to 80%). When these gases mix with heated air, combustible substances ignite, the temperature in the upper part of the furnace becomes even higher, the stones are heated to higher temperatures. At the same time (when using dry firewood), much less fuel is required. Many furnaces are built on this principle. long burning, but it has recently been used in sauna stoves.

Furnace with secondary air supply

Approximately the same model, but without afterburning, is made in a different format. Here the dimensions are not indicated, but it is easier to understand the proportions and arrangement of various elements.

Volumetric model of a home-made stove-heater made of metal

In this case, the volume of the furnace is about 130% of the volume of the heater. Normal ratio. The chimney is shifted back, which is not always good - difficulties may arise when installing the chimney - it can rest against ceiling beam- you will have to bend the chimney, which is undesirable. So think about the location of the pipe.

Even among bath lovers, there are constant disputes: a tank for heating water in a steam room is good or bad ... Some regulate the humidity by opening / closing the tank lid. This option suits them. Others say that this steam is "heavy" and take the tank out to washing department, and the water in it is heated by building a heat exchanger into the furnace and connecting it to the tank with pipes. The next scheme is a furnace in a metal bath with a water tank.

Drawing of a stove for a bath with a water tank

The design is competent - with the help of a "spark arrester" the path of passage flue gases longer, longer it stays in the furnace, better heats the walls. If you do not want a tank, you can put stones in its place.

An interesting option with a tank, which is located at the back of the oven. The chimney is moved back, and passes through the tank. The height of the tank is large, the heat removal will be effective - the temperature of the chimney at the exit from the tank will not be large for sure.

Variant of a small stove with a large tank

Interestingly arranged stone. It is not very large, but for small and medium steam rooms its volume is enough. It closes with a lid, which, on the one hand, is not very convenient: closing the lid after water has been supplied to the stones will be problematic. On the other hand, it is convenient to maintain.

Furnace sections and dimensions

How to make a sauna stove

As already mentioned, the main task of this type of heating devices is to quickly “catch up” with the required temperature and be able to maintain it. There is a simple solution - put a fan that will blow over the walls of the furnace, accelerating heating.

Approximately the same function is performed by the casing-convector. This is the casing around the furnace body. A gap of 1.5-2 cm remains between it and the wall of the furnace. Air is sucked into this gap from below. It passes along the walls, heats up, at the same time cooling the walls. Then it rises up, spreading heat throughout the steam room.

How the convection hood works

If the furnace body is made of thick metal, then the casing can also be made of thin. It rarely heats up to high temperatures, and burnout does not threaten it. If in the sauna stove the heater is located at the top, above the firebox, as in the photo, then holes can be made in the body to ventilate the heater. Then part of the air that rises along the walls will enter the heater, blow over the stones and heat up even more. Such a heater is called ventilated. It is good for dry air saunas.

Drawings and diagrams

The design of sauna stoves is simpler. You need a firebox of a normal size, in which large logs are placed. At the top, above top the fireboxes are welded on the sides of the heater, the volume of which is usually 20-25 liters. Variations can be in width / height / depth, but there are no special tricks.

Schemes metal furnaces for sauna

Installing a tank for heating water in the steam room of a sauna is not the best idea. You won't be able to control the humidity, and it's easy to get burned at high temperatures. However, several options for installing tanks in the photo above.

Another type of heater is inside the firebox. If desired, you can make a lid on it and such an oven can be used in two modes - with an open lid for dry steaming, with an open one - to get more steam.

Kamenka inside the building

When asked how a metal stove differs from a stone one, many answer with a smile and without the slightest hesitation - the material of manufacture. For such an answer, you can put a three on a five-point system for assessing knowledge. To get a higher score, check out the main and fundamental differences, this knowledge will be very useful to you during the manufacture of your own hands metal stove for a bath.

The stone oven is made of heavy bricks, therefore, it has a large mass. And all bodies with a large mass are characterized by significant inertia - they heat up for a long time and give off heat for a long time. For a bath, this is not bad, but only on one condition - the furnace device must provide the maximum temperature for burning firewood, otherwise you will have to long time heat the rooms.

The metal furnace, on the contrary, has a small mass, heats up quickly and cools down just as quickly. These features put forward fundamentally new requirements for the firebox, the firewood in it should burn as long as possible. This is the only way to keep the oven hot for a long time.

Another important requirement to the firebox is related to the characteristics of the steel. When heated to only + 150 ° C, martensite begins to decompose, it recrystallizes and polygonizes, changes physical properties metal.

Look at the table, at this temperature the metal furnace does not change color, it seems to us that everything is fine, but this is no longer the case. Low-temperature tempering occurs at metal temperatures up to +250°, steel loses its resistance to dynamic loads.

The dark brown color of the furnace indicates that the metal has heated up to a temperature of +550°C, and at these indicators, medium-temperature steel tempering begins, martensite turns into ferrite and cementite. Crystalline transformations of a metal change its linear characteristics. Have you noticed that sheet metal after high heat and cooling does not return to its original dimensions? It may swell, lose linearity, etc. Appearance stove becomes "very original" and far from the original.

But quite often, the metal oven heats up even more and turns bright red. This color appears at a heating temperature of +900°C. And this is already a high tempering, the metal becomes very soft and ductile, the phenomena of residual deformation increase significantly. The oven may warp, the welds may not withstand the resulting static forces. How to prevent such negative phenomena? It will not be possible to completely get rid of them, but there are ways to minimize them. They will help increase the operating time of a metal stove and improve the comfort of bathing procedures by increasing the time to maintain a favorable temperature in the room.

We are confident that this knowledge will help you minimize Negative consequences too much heating of the metal furnace. This can be done in two ways: by special preparation of the metal and by the features of the furnace device.

Metal pretreatment

After all the individual elements of the furnace have been cut out, the most heated parts must first be released. The sides and top parts and the firebox door heat up the most. Heat them in any way until red and cool slowly. After vacation, the sheets may warp a little, it's not scary, trim them with a hammer to their original state. Check the dimensions again, if they have changed within noticeable limits, cut to the desired parameters. This simple method will eliminate the warping of the stove during its operation.

Features of the design of the furnace of a metal furnace

Most metal stoves produce the maximum amount of heat in the minimum time, the wood burns out very quickly, the surfaces heat up to high temperatures. It is impossible to maintain a normal and stable temperature in the steam room - you often have to add firewood. The room is either too hot or too cold. Why it happens? Such furnaces in most cases have grates. Their presence is justified in stone ovens, we have already mentioned that these ovens need to be heated quickly. Strong burning of the flame is provided big amount air entering through the grate into the flame.

Grid-irons are made of metal rods, numerous sheet metal drilled holes or cast iron, different hole sizes, etc.

The firewood lies on the grate, the air supply is not regulated by anything, on the contrary, all measures are taken to increase the draft, which automatically speeds up the combustion process. The upper part of the oven heats up the most, the sidewalls slightly less, and the bottom and front part heat up slightly.

Such a combustion mode has an extremely negative effect on both the duration of the operation of the stove and the comfort of staying in the steam room. You have to periodically fill the fire with water, if there is not enough water, the flame quickly flares up again, if there is a lot, the burning may stop altogether. In a word, a bathing day instead of pleasure brings a headache.

What do we offer? The solution is very simple - do not make grates with a blower, let the firewood lie at the bottom of the stove, and not on the grate. Seal the firebox door as much as possible; you can use asbestos cord or mineral wool around the perimeter.

Make holes in the firebox door with an ordinary movable damper to regulate the amount of air supplied. One bookmark of firewood in such an oven will burn for more than an hour, it is possible to regulate the temperature of heating surfaces. In addition, the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe stove will warm up. Due to the absence of a grate and an ash pan, work on the manufacture of the furnace was simplified, and efficiency and ease of use increased.

As you can see, all the knowledge came in handy for us, they can be used not only during the manufacture of the sauna stove. We have dealt with the theory, it's time to move on to practice.

Brief description and dimensions of the metal stove

Our design will have separate tank for heating water and a heater built into the top of the stove. The flame heats the heater from all sides, which significantly increases the efficiency of the stove. You can take arbitrary sizes, consider the parameters of the steam room and the number of people washing at the same time. For example, we give the dimensions of our stove.

1. External stone. Width 50 cm, length 50 cm, height 80 cm.
2. Internal stone. Width 40 cm, length 40 cm, height 50 cm. The distance between the walls of the inner and outer heater is five centimeters around the perimeter.
3. Bake. Width 50 cm, length 90 cm, height 50 cm. You can change the length of the stove, make it only for an external heater 50 cm long (then the water tank will have to be mounted on stops from the side) or increase the length to increase the volume of the tank.
4. Water tank. Width 40 cm, length 50 cm, height 60 cm. 120 liters of water are placed in the tank, which is quite enough for washing three or four people. Of course, hot water must be diluted with cold.

Instructions for the manufacture of a metal furnace

Step 1. Prepare materials. For manufacturing, you need sheet steel, the thicker the better. But this can be very expensive, we recommend using sheets with a thickness of 1.5÷2.0 mm.

Metal sheets 2 mm

Step 2 Make a sketch of the stove, showing all dimensions and parts. Count the number of parts and their total area. This will help you decide on the need for sheet iron.

Scheme - an example of a sauna stove

Step 3 Transfer the dimensions to the metal, cut out all the elements of the furnace. Strictly observe the angles, they should be 90 °, make the opposite sidewalls as identical as possible. You need to cut metal with a circular grinder, follow the safety rules. The grinder is a very dangerous tool, you should not joke with it, as a result, you can get too severe injuries. Burrs after cutting the workpieces should be removed. Before starting welding, double-check the quantity and dimensions of all parts.

Furnace welding

Perform work on level ground, free workplace from foreign objects. Let's start with the manufacture of the heater for the stove.

Step 1. Place two sidewalls on the edge at a right angle, start making potholders.

Adjust the current electric arc should not overheat the metal - the seam will turn out to be uneven and fragile. Tack a few millimeters, 4 ÷ 5 tacks are enough for one corner. Constantly check the position of the sidewalls. After cooling, the weld leads the sheets to the side, align their position. Check the corners with a square. In the same way, grab the two remaining sides of the heater.

Step 2 Put the two prepared blanks together, adjust the corners if necessary and grab the opposite edges of the heater. You have got a heater box, it remains to make the bottom and the lid.

Four connected blank sheets forming a box

Step 3 Grab the bottom and lid. During manual cutting of workpieces, achieve perfect sizes impossible, there will always be deviations. This is not scary, before tacking the bottom and cover, install them in such a way that the difference in dimensions is approximately the same on all sides. Slits of a few millimeters will weld without problems. To prevent the lid from falling into the box, put one side on any stand, as long as it is thin and does not disturb the desired position of the part. Make a few tacks on each side of the heater, as always, pay attention to the position of the elements and correct deviations if necessary.

For the bottom of the inner heater, it is better to take a sheet 10 mm thick. It accounts for the main “ular” of the flame, a too thin bottom can burn out quite quickly and smoke will begin to flow into the steam room. When the heater box is fully tacked, apply full seams.

Step 4. Make a door in the stove. Lay the box horizontally and make a markup. You can cut a hole with a grinder or welding.

In our version, the heater consists of two parts: internal and external. The outer one should have dimensions around the perimeter larger than the inner one by about 10 centimeters for the passage of flame and smoke into the chimney. The inner heater is installed in the outer one on pipes, the diameter of the pipes is arbitrary.

Step 5. Make holes in the lower part of the outer heater for pipes, on which the inner heater will stand. If you don't have pipes, you can use metal bars or rebar. Make sure that the holes are horizontal and at the same height on both sides of the sides of the outer heater.

In the same way, grab the outer heater, the furnace firebox and the water tank. Cut holes in the firebox for firewood. We recommend making holes in such a way that the cut parts of the sheet can be used as doors. To do this, make holes in the furnace 1 cm larger than in the heater, from this blank it will be possible to make a door to it - material is saved.

Video - Making a metal stove for a bath (part 1)

Assembly of individual elements of the furnace into a single structure

Step 1. Prepare four plates for welding two heaters. The dimensions of the plates along the length must correspond to the dimensions of the opening of the external heater.

Step 2 At the top of the outer heater, cut holes for the chimney. The dimensions of the hole must match the pipe you have and provide the necessary draft in the furnace.

Step 3 Along the perimeter of the hole in the stove for the heater, weld metal strips about 2 centimeters high, the dimensions of the opening should correspond to the dimensions of the outer heater.

From the inside of the firebox, weld a corner 45 × 45 m, one side of the corner should go into the hole for the heater and form a square. The side of the square should be 0.5÷1 cm smaller sizes heaters. The structure will rest against these shelves in the furnace opening. To increase the sealing of the meta-installation of the heater, use sheet asbestos, cut out strips of two centimeters wide from it and place it between the bottom of the heater and the stops from the corner. Detachable connection will facilitate the installation of the stove in the steam room. The structures of the stove are made of thick steel, they are large in size and weight; it is impractical to weld the heater to the stove. It is much more convenient to make it collapsible / collapsible, this will facilitate transportation and installation.

Step 4 Weld the firebox door on the hinges. Double seam weld all pre-made designs. The seam is better to put outside and inside.

Step 5 Insert the inner heater into place, it should stand on the pipes and have vertical position. Using the prepared plates, connect the holes of the inner and outer heaters. If the fastening of the internal heater is in doubt, fix it from above with pieces of metal, squares or fittings. These mounts will be hidden, you can use any metal scrap.

The hole is covered with a door. Asbestos cord around the perimeter of the door, the lid is bolted

Step 6 Weld the top cover of the outer heater. Cut a hole in it for the chimney pipe. Check the quality of all seams, correct gaps if necessary.

The stone is almost ready. The backwardness is only to make a technological hole for cleaning the soot falling from the pipe and to think over the installation of the furnace. Soot will accumulate on the lid of the inner heater. Make a hole on the side of the outer wall of the heater, close it with a bolted lid, use an asbestos cord to seal it. Gently grind all the corners with a grinder, remove the burrs.

We offer to install the oven on metal legs. The height of the legs is at least 40 centimeters, asbestos must be placed below, a metal sheet on top. These are fire safety regulations.

Video - Stove for a bath (stages of assembling a double heater and installing it on a welded combustion chamber)

Video - Sauna stove (final part)

We have already mentioned that each master in the course of manufacturing the stove can make his own changes and adjustments, taking into account his own preferences and the individual characteristics of the steam room. The changes concern not only the dimensions of the furnace, but also its design. We give a few hints for possible use.

It is better to make the legs in the form of a longitudinal slide - the pressure on the flooring, loads are distributed evenly over several floorboards. This is very important, the stove itself is quite heavy, and you also need to keep in mind the weight of stones and water. For making legs any will do the available metal is of suitable size, and for the sled you can take a 50 × 50 mm square. The ends of the sled should not protrude beyond the perimeter of the stove, otherwise you can injure your legs.

Refractory bricks can be placed on the bottom and sides of the stove - the metal heats up less and the heat lasts longer. Refractory bricks There are two types: heat-conducting (heavy) and heat-insulating (light). The latter are used for laying smelting furnaces, they keep the surfaces cold, despite the huge temperature inside. Make no mistake, do not take such materials. A fire-resistant brick for a bath stove should conduct heat well, pay attention to this. If you plan to lay bricks, then increase the size of the firebox by the size of the brick.

Firebox and heater doors can be made from plates obtained after cutting holes. To do this, make the cuts as even as possible, use thin discs to reduce the width of the slot. Working with them is more difficult and longer, but in the end you will still save time - you won’t have to waste it on making individual doors. It goes without saying that metal is also saved.

The dimensions of the doors will be smaller than the dimensions of the holes by the width of the cut, the doors can “fall through” into the firebox or heater. To avoid such situations, weld with reverse side holes stops for doors. You can use narrow strips of metal. It is advisable to weld the stops around the entire perimeter of the holes, and not at several points, in this way you will increase the tightness of closing the doors.

It is better to make from stainless steel, for welding stainless steel you need to use special electrodes. Adjust the current of the welding machine specifically for stainless steel, remember that it is more difficult to cook it, some experience is required.

If small children are washing in the bath, be sure to make a protective fence around the stove. It can be portable or stationary, it doesn't matter. The main thing is that the fence guarantees the safety of children.

If during the operation of the stove it turned out that its power is not enough to heat the room - do not be discouraged. The heat transfer performance of the stove can be significantly improved by increasing the effective area. Weld any metal plates on the sides and top, they will act as heat exchanger radiators. There is another way to increase heat transfer. To do this, you will need curved pipes with a diameter of about 50 centimeters. Weld them to the sides of the stove, one end of the pipe should be located under the stove, and the other above it. As a result of the temperature difference, draft will appear in the pipes, cold air is drawn in from the floor under the stove and thrown out hot above it. The stove will work on the principle of the Buleryan stove.

We recommend making an adjustable air supply on the firebox door. The easiest way is to make a blower from a pipe. You will need a piece of pipe ≈10 centimeters long and a piece of sheet metal of the same size. Make a hole in the middle of the door for the diameter of the pipe. From sheet metal, cut a circle with a diameter a few millimeters smaller than the nominal diameter of the pipe. Drill two holes in the walls of the pipe, they must lie strictly on the same line and on the axis of the pipe. The distance of the holes from the end of the pipe is at least half the diameter, otherwise the damper will not completely block the gap, which will impair the ability to adjust the amount of fresh air supply.

Insert a piece of wire rod of the appropriate diameter into the holes, bend the upper end in the form of a handle. Weld a circle cut out of sheet steel to the wire rod, fix the manufactured damper to the hole in the firebox door.

There is another way to make adjustable door openings. Drill holes with a diameter of 10 ÷ 20 mm in the lower part, the centers of the holes should lie on the same line. Weld a metal plate from the bottom and top of the holes, the distance between the plates and the door should be equal to the thickness of the valve. The plates will serve as guides for the valve. Open one or more holes as needed during the firing of the stove.

These are not all possible improvements to a metal stove, think for yourself and engage in technical creativity. This process brings real pleasure, believe the professionals.