How to make a toilet from a barrel in the country with your own hands. Do-it-yourself country toilet Toilet from a 200 l metal barrel

The design of a country toilet - choose wisely

The most important criterion for choosing the type of toilet for a summer residence is the level of groundwater on the site. With a deep standing groundwater (deeper than 2.5-3.5 m), especially if the water does not rise above two meters from the surface of the earth even in heavy rains, any of the above types of toilet is possible. With a high standing of groundwater, this is exactly what we usually have in areas of the middle lane - the water is close to the surface, a classic toilet with a cesspool is unacceptable.

When standing groundwater above 2.5 m, the preferred option is powder closet or backlash closet, as well as a bio- or chemical toilet. Since these structures have a sealed cesspool, the waste does not enter the groundwater and is safe in an epidemiological sense. Let's take a closer look at each of the options.

Construction of a toilet in the country: by law and harmony by neighbors

There are clear standards for the placement of a country street toilet. This is especially important for those structures that involve the contact of sewage with soil and groundwater. According to sanitary requirements, any water source (well, well, river, lake, stream, etc.) must be more than 25 m.

The door to the toilet should not be located on the side of the neighbors.

On a note

When building a toilet, it is better to take into account the directions of the winds that are most frequent in your participation: unpleasant odors should not bother the neighbors.

When your summer cottage is located slightly on a slope, the toilet should be below the source of clean water - so the waste does not fall into the water.

As for the country house and the buildings of the neighbors

• The toilet must be at least 12 m away from residential buildings, cellars, basements.
• From the structure of the bath, sauna, shower - at least 8 m.
• From enclosures for keeping animals, poultry houses, etc. - at least 4 m.
• From trees and shrubs - at least a meter; at the same distance - from the fence enclosing your summer cottage.

Do-it-yourself toilet - do-it-yourself powder closet

Building a classic "rustic" toilet is not at all difficult and even a novice builder can do it. Therefore, we will focus on the device of a more modern design - a powder closet.

Advantages of powder closet:

• This design does not provide for a cesspool, and this simplifies its construction. No need to dig a ditch.
• Powder closet can be erected next to residential buildings.
• Groundwater is not polluted.

The beginning of any construction is a drawing, since all parts must have accurately calculated dimensions. They should be such that the toilet is easy to use. So, the minimum width of the building should be at least 1.5 m, the depth - at least a meter, the height - 2.2 m. Dimensions can be large, but it is not advisable to make them smaller. Now it's time to decide on the building material. Most often country toilets are made of wood. But you can build a brick toilet, sheathe the walls with a metal profile or slate.

Foundation: laying the foundation of the toilet

The toilet is a light building that does not require a solid solid foundation. Often, a strip foundation is poured under the country toilet - the base is poured only along the perimeter of the walls. When creating a strip foundation for any building, a trench is dug, it is taken out above the zero mark and poured with a cement solution. The role of waterproofing is performed by roofing material. The foundation is filled with crushed stone, rubble stone, gravel, broken bricks. Coarse-grained sand and gravel are poured into the trench in layers, each layer should be compacted and poured with water. At ground level, the foundation is poured with cement mortar. The plinth is made of brick and insulated with a layer of roofing material. From the outside of the foundation it is necessary to make a blind area.

But it is much easier to make the simplest foundation for a wooden toilet under a toilet: either bury the supports (pillars - concrete, from timber or logs), or make a foundation from concrete blocks or bricks laid out around the perimeter of the structure.

Operating procedure

1. The first stage is the marking of the site for future construction. Accurately mark the corners of the future building.
2. As a foundation, we dig in supports. We need four asbestos-cement pipes, their diameter is about 150 mm. Outside, they should be coated with bituminous mastic.
3. Some types of soils do not have the necessary characteristics for construction: strength, low compressibility, etc. Peat soils usually compress under load, clay soils swell, and forest-like soils can settle under the weight of the building in spring and autumn. Before starting construction, if you are building a brick toilet, such soils require a series of drainage measures or replacement of soil unsuitable for development. To check, it is enough to dig a hole in the place where the building will stand, with a depth of 0.5 to 1.5 m, and see the composition of the soil. The best option for construction is if your soil is based on fine-grained compacted sand.
4. In the corners of the future building, 4 deep wells (about 70 cm) should be dug. At this depth, pipes are buried in the ground. Although, in general, the depth to which pipes must be buried will depend on the structure of the soil. On some soils, it may be necessary to deepen the pipes by 90-100 cm.
5. Further, the pipes are poured with concrete mortar to a third of the height. Concrete is compacted by removing air bubbles. Support poles are inserted inside the pipes, most often wooden ones, which are fixed with concrete mortar.
6. The poles are fixed so that they protrude to a height of 2.3 m from the ground. The location of the pillars should be even relative to the corners.

The easiest version of the foundation of the toilet

For a light wooden building, it is enough to simply install concrete blocks or bricks. A frame will be placed on them. Such a “foundation” is done as follows: the top layer of soil is removed to a depth of 30 cm and compacted tightly. A layer of sand is covered at the bottom of the trench, and concrete blocks or bricks are placed on top.

Building a toilet frame

The frame of the country toilet is made of wooden beams with a section of 50 x 50 mm or 80 * 80 mm. Sometimes they take a thicker beam (100 * 100 mm) and even thicker, but this is not advisable. Still need metal corners. The frame is 4 bearing supports installed vertically. We also need a strapping of the roof of our building.

Roof trim: horizontal bars protrude from the body to a distance of about 40 cm. A visor is obtained in front, and a ledge for rainwater drainage is obtained in the back.

We sit well

The correct height of the toilet seat is the key to ease of use of the toilet. A seat that is too high will be uncomfortable for children and short people, too low will cause inconvenience to tall family members. It should be taken into account at what level the floor in the toilet will be located -40 cm upwards is deposited from this height. And keep in mind that there will also be a sheathing on top of the strapping (about 20 mm wide).

Consideration

• Screed at the level of the toilet seat, which will appear later. The bars of this strapping are installed in a spacer to the vertical supports of the frame. The height of the toilet seat to the floor of the toilet should be 40-45 cm.
• For the strength of the frame, diagonal braces are also made on the back and side walls. The frame for fastening the door consists of 2 vertical supports about 1.9-2 m high and a horizontal bar at this height.

On a note

Often, slate or corrugated sheets are used to build a country toilet. It is easier to work with them, but in such a toilet it will be uncomfortable. Wooden walls allow air to pass through it, providing natural ventilation.

Toilet frame upholstery

The walls of the country toilet are sheathed with wooden boards, the thickness of which should be from 20 to 25 mm. They are tightly fitted and nailed to the frame supports. It is better to place the boards vertically, with the top of the back wall and side wall sheathing boards neatly cut off taking into account the slope of the roof (since in this design the roof will slope towards the back wall). In the back wall of the powder closet, a door is usually made through which a container with waste is taken out. The hinged door has a height of 40 to 45 cm (it is made to the height of the toilet seat).

We cut the roof of the toilet with our own hands

The roof of such a structure is usually covered with either sheets of corrugated board, or slate, or metal tiles. The wooden roof is covered with roofing material or other waterproofing material.

The roof of the toilet is made so that it has a hole for the ventilation pipe. The pipe must be sealed.

Making a toilet door

They make a door out of wood and hang it on two or three hinges, depending on how heavy the door is. Also, the door is equipped with a latch, hook or latch outside and inside. A small window is usually made above the door so that light enters it. Zealous owners usually glass the window.

If you make the size of the toilet house large enough, you can even hang a washbasin in it.

Toilet seat: the most important thing

What to make a seat and a toilet seat in a powder toilet? It can be boards, lining, moisture resistant plywood. It is best to dwell on the wooden sheathing of the toilet seat frame, the boards must be painted, a hole cut out and an appropriate container with a capacity of 20-40 liters should be installed under the toilet seat. It is better to make the lid of the toilet seat reclining, fixing it on hinges. In addition, you should find a place in the toilet for a container of peat (you can hang it on the wall) and a bucket for used toilet paper.

Toilet with barrel

From wind and rain

The roof is built after the walls are completely sheathed. Fix it along the line of the upper slope, checking the compliance of the angles of the slope on adjacent surfaces. He must

Since the building is still loosely fixed at the stage of roof construction, then when working at height, just a ladder is not enough, additional insurance is needed. For example, using a reinforced ladder.

be 30 degrees. Having installed the roof, sew up the back wall. Zealous owners also hem overhangs.

The roof in this design is covered with a board. The thickness of the board is at least 20 mm. You can fasten the roof sheathing boards to the rafters with ordinary nails - there will be no special bearing load on a small roof area.

The roof is covered with roofing material - use ondulin, metal tiles or roofing material.

It is undesirable to cover the toilet roof with slate - such a coating greatly increases the wind load on the building.

Final check

An important stage of work is the final check. The degree of tightening of all screws, the verticality of the walls and the horizontality of the floor are checked.

• If there are violations, you can correct the structure by adding gravel under the foundation, installing spacers, etc.
• The base of the toilet should be carefully fixed; for this purpose, another fastener is placed at the bottom of the foundation. The support columns on the sides are concreted, finally securing the structure.
• Be sure to check your work for the absence of through breakdowns inside, on the back of the roof and walls. Such sharp tips of nails and screws can cause serious injury to people.

And finally, the interior decoration of our building. It begins, of course, with cutting a hole. First of all, a niche is cut out in the floor of the toilet along the perimeter of the buried barrel (hand, circular saw, electric jigsaw, etc.). The upper part of the niche is hemmed with a 25 mm board. The niche should be exactly in the center, 200-250 mm from the rear wall of the toilet, and its dimensions should be at least 450 x 450 mm.

Summer residents decorate the "house" at their discretion. The main thing is not to overload it with decorative details, because the structure is rather fragile. The easiest option is to sheathe the perimeter of the front side with a decorative trim.

Reliable protection

Impregnation on wood is applied after completion of the main construction work. The choice of impregnation today is very large.

• The tree should be impregnated with an antiseptic, this will protect the wooden parts from mold, fungi, and organic formations. After all, the toilet is an unheated room.
• All wooden parts must be protected from decay. In conditions of high humidity, rotting can destroy the structure in just two to three years.
• The refractory coating is very important. A cigarette thrown carelessly in the toilet can cause a fire in this wooden structure.
• And one more function of impregnation and coloring of the toilet is decorative.

Hanging the toilet door

The door can be made independently or you can use the existing one for the second time. In any case, she also needs to apply protective impregnations. The door is mounted on hinges that are pre-lubricated with any solid lubricant (solid oil, for example), which will protect metal parts from rust.

Toilet lighting

Before finishing the interior decoration of our house, you should take care of the lighting. When carrying out electrical work, it must be taken into account that the toilet is a building with high humidity. Based on this, we comply with the following rules:

If there are children in the family

Let's say we use LED lamps with a voltage of 12 or 36 Volts. A voltage converter is installed at the beginning of the power supply line, and the switch will be built into the design of the luminaire. If there are children in the family, then such a safe lamp can be installed at a low height.

• From the power line support to the toilet should not be more than five meters.
• The power cable is brought out by means of a mast with a height of at least 250 cm; while the mast must be securely fastened to the rear wall of the toilet.
• A ground connection is required.
• Inside the building, the cable wiring is carried out in an open way, its cross section must be at least 0.75 square meters. mm.
• The luminaire power should not exceed 40 watts. It is safest to use energy-saving lamps. The design of the luminaire itself should be designed for use in rooms with high humidity.
• The light switch must not be located inside the toilet. Install it on a special shield at the beginning of the power supply line. This can be a switchboard, or a switch can be installed inside a permanent building.

We mount the seat

First of all, we need to make a so-called podium. You will need bars 30 * 60 mm in size, as well as self-tapping screws at least 70 mm long, which will connect these bars into the podium structure.

The niche opposite the cesspool should remain free - this will allow you to clean the barrel in a timely manner, and such a toilet will last much longer.

The created structure is sheathed with sheet material, which must be durable (plywood, chipboard, OSB boards). The front wall is closed with a rectangle of the desired size. Fix it with self-tapping screws.

The upper part of the podium - mark a strip of sheet material that will go around the vertical racks of the wall frame. A rectangular part is cut out, and then the grooves are marked, the location and size of which correspond to the racks.

On the upper part we install a toilet seat, which is closed with a lid.

For aesthetics, so that the interior of the podium is hidden from view, install a simple device inside - a plastic box without a bottom and a lid.

The interior of the country toilet

If high-quality materials were used for the construction of the toilet, the inside of the toilet can not be painted. It is enough just to pickle the boards with a protective coating.

The floor and podium are painted with weatherproof dyes.

The door of the building and the outer walls are still best protected by painting. Previously, the surfaces are cleaned of old paint, if any, and sanded.

Do-it-yourself backlash closet

How to organize a sewer

You can make a pressure or gravity sewer. It depends on the characteristics of each individual suburban area. With pressure sewerage, waste is fed using special fecal pumps, with gravity sewage, it goes away by gravity.

When installing a gravity sewer, it is very important to keep the slopes correctly. The slope must be the same throughout, and then the length of the sewer pipe can be any.

On a note

Very often they make the slope as large as possible, believing that in this way the waste will flow out faster. This is mistake. If the slope is too steep, the liquid drains faster, solid waste is trapped, and the pipes become clogged. Also, the inflow of air to the surfaces of underfilled pipes leads to corrosion and a decrease in their service life.

A pressure sewer is installed if it is impossible to maintain a sufficient slope angle. This may be when, for example, the way

Drainage slope

For novice builders, the difficulty lies in the fact that the unit of measurement of the slope, adopted in the construction literature, is unusual for them - these are decimal fractions of the form 0.03 or 0.008. This fraction is the ratio of the drop height to the length of the pipe. For example, 3 cm by 1 m, or 0.8 cm but 1 m. The length of the sewer pipe in meters, when multiplied by the slope, will give the total slope height along the entire length.

Polypropylene pipes (they do not deform at high and low temperatures and are easy to install) are assembled starting from the bottom, inserting each subsequent one into the socket of the previous one. In places of turns and at the bottom of risers, special revision pipes are required. The joint of a polypropylene pipe with a cast iron pipe is made using a rubber cuff.

When installing a pressure sewer, the pipes are connected by welding. The diameter of such pipes depends on the requirements of the pump and ranges from 20 to 40 mm.

The outer part of the sewer is placed in a trench. The depth of the trench should be below the freezing level of the soil. Pipes for external sewage are used cast iron, ceramic or asbestos, but they can also be plastic if laid in places where there is no increased load. The pipes must slope towards the drain.

When installing the toilet, remember that its outlet should not be lower than the neck of the pipe. In this case, it is raised using bricks and cement. A toilet bowl outlet is put on the cuff with a seal, the cuff itself is inserted into the pipe.

On a note

If necessary, it is better to put 2 knees at 45 ° than one at 90 °. So the flow of plums will not slow down.

The toilet is located below ground level.

Here you need a fecal pump. It is not a problem to purchase one, summer residents are offered a wide range of models that differ in power, distance, method of pumping waste (vertically or horizontally), etc.

The final chord: what to do with the "good" from the toilet

The country sewer system is divided into two types

Shower and toilet in the country: for beginner builders

Even if in your life you have not built anything more complicated than a stool, you can build a toilet and a shower in your summer cottage.

STEP 1. CASIN

The walls of the cesspool are best sealed by providing a hatch for pumping out waste.

1. First, we clean the construction site from roots, trees, bushes and debris. For a family of 3-4 people, we dig a hole one meter wide, 120 cm long, 200 cm deep.
2. The earth should not crumble into a pit and clutter up the construction site. We take the fertile layer on a garden wheelbarrow to the garden, clay - away from our site.
3. We strengthen the walls of the resulting pit. We take flat sheets of slate 1 * 2 m in size and cut them with a grinder according to the size of the walls. We lower the sheets down and fix them in the pit with the help of corners from the reinforcement. To this end, we punch holes in the slate and hammer the corners into the wall of the pit.
4. The gaps between the walls of the pit and the slate should be sealed with reinforcement rods. We put the rods in the slots, then we lay the sheets of roofing material for waterproofing, then we fill in the cement mortar.
5. We place a sheet of iron at the bottom of the pit: this way the earth will be sealed from sewage.
6. For now, we cover the finished pit with polyethylene from dampness and precipitation, while we ourselves begin to build a columnar foundation.

STEP 2. FILLING THE FOUNDATION

A shower and a toilet for a summer residence can be economically combined in one building. The parameters of such a building: a width of one and a half meters, a length of 3 meters, a height of 2 m 20 cm. Thus, the premises will be 1.5 by 1.5 m in area. However, for a family of three, there is enough building area for a shower and toilet 1.2 * 1.2 m.

On a note

It is very important to spread the slate sheets with wooden bars before pouring the solution.

1. The building will be wooden, which means that the foundation will be quite columnar, light, 80 cm deep.
2. We cut 16 wooden stakes and mark the place of the future foundation. Along the perimeter of a rectangle with parameters of 150 by 300 cm, we install 14 stakes every 75 cm. We also put pegs in the far corners of the pit: there will be a hatch through which the cesspool will be cleaned in the future.
3. We check the location and verticality of the pegs. There should be equal spacing between stakes, all angles should be 90°.
4. For drilling holes, it is best to use a garden drill with a 13 cm auger. We make 16 holes. We supply each pit with a wooden formwork, the height-length-width of which is 20 x 20 * 20 cm. Using the building level, we equalize the formwork horizontally.
5. We insert three reinforcing bars into each pit, which are fastened together with a wire - so the foundation will be reliable. We place a rolled roofing material at the bottom of the pit so that the concrete is isolated from the soil.
6. We fill the recesses with cement mortar. Small crushed stone is often added to cement, based on the ratio of cement, sand and crushed stone 1:3:5. The solution is equal to the formwork.
7. In the center of each hole we place a metal hairpin with a diameter of about 10 mm. We deepen the hairpin by 12 cm so that 8 cm remain above the cement level.
8. While the cement hardens, we prepare a wooden beam for the construction of the frame.

STEP 3. CONSTRUCTION OF THE FRAME

We need a beam, the side of which will be equal to 10 cm. When the cement has hardened, it's time to remove the formwork and make the bottom trim of the foundation.

1. Using a chainsaw, along the length of the sides of the future building, we saw off the bars and connect them to each other half a tree. That is, 5 cm from the thickness of the beam is cut from each side, and so the beams are interconnected according to the principle of a puzzle.
2. We drill holes into which the studs protruding from our columnar foundation will enter.
3. We lay the overlap, securing it with a washer with a nut with a spanner wrench.
4. Do not forget to lay a roofing material under the timber for waterproofing.
5. The lower trim is ready: the bars lie on poles, tied with studs and nuts. After that, the wooden strapping bars are covered with a protective compound from external influences.
6. Above the pit (there will be a floor and a “podium” seat), two metal channels are laid for strength.
7. Part of the cesspool outside the perimeter of the walls is covered with a board and protected with a moisture-proof material. In the future, the hose of the as-senator machine can be inserted by removing several boards.
8. We begin to install vertical poles. Their height is equal to the height of the future building - 220 cm. The first pillars are installed in the corners of the building, checking the correctness of their installation with a building level.
9. We connect the vertical pillars of the frame to the bottom trim using metal plates and corners for fasteners. For reliability, we install spacers at the base of the pillars, securing them with long screws.
10. We install the next two pillars where the doors will be. Their height is 200 cm, the width between them is 80 cm. Above the door, at a height of two meters, we strengthen the spacer horizontally. And the remaining 20 cm between the doorway and the ceiling will subsequently be glazed. We also fix these pillars with spacers, fixed with long self-tapping screws. When the pillars are installed, it is necessary to make the upper trim: the timber is also connected in half a tree.
11. The entire structure is treated with an antiseptic composition to prevent wood decay.

A toilet is something without which it is impossible to imagine a full-fledged summer cottage. The simplest option for a country toilet is a cesspool-based system. If desired, such a toilet can be made with your own hands. You just need to familiarize yourself with the proposed step-by-step guide and do everything in accordance with the instructions.

Before proceeding with any operations, you should collect the materials and tools necessary for arranging an individual toilet.

Kit for building a country toilet

1. Bar 100 mm wide and 50 mm thick. In the absence of this material, you can use an edged board.
2. Moisture-proof material. Roofing material is traditionally used.
3. A beam 300 cm long, with a section of 50x50 mm.
4. Floor board 3000x100x25 mm.
5. Sheets of coniferous lining.
6. Nails and screws.
7. Door with related elements and fittings.
8. Electric drill.
9. Hammer.
10. Jigsaw or hacksaw.
11. Shovel.
12. Roofing material. Usually used ordinary slate. If desired, you can make a roof at your discretion.

The amount of materials is selected individually in accordance with the dimensions of the future design. After everything you need is bought and collected in one place, you can start choosing a suitable place to place the toilet.

When choosing a location for such a delicate building, a number of important factors must be taken into account. First of all, decide whether you will make a latrine with a cesspool or another design is more suitable for you. At this stage, be guided by the level of passage of groundwater. If they pass at a depth below 250 cm, you can safely make a latrine with a cesspool. In the case of the passage of groundwater above the mark of 250 cm, it is better to abandon the design with a cesspool.

It is important to find a middle ground here - the toilet, after all, is an intimate place, but it is also not recommended to build it in some hard-to-reach area, which, if something happens, you can not reach.

If you are not going to turn an ordinary toilet into a work of landscape art, it is best to do it in some secluded corner, at a relatively small distance from the house.

When choosing a suitable place, you need to focus on the current sanitary standards.. They are especially important in the case of the construction of a toilet with a cesspool. If the pit you created is not airtight, waste will simply seep into the groundwater, which can ruin the plantings on the site. Yes, and it will be very dangerous to use such water in the future.

A toilet with a cesspool should be located at a distance of at least 12-14 m from the residential building. A "dry" outhouse should be built at a distance of 4-5 m or more.

Don't forget about your neighbors too. The minimum allowable distance between the toilet and the border of the neighboring plot is 1.5-2 m. The owners of the neighboring cottage are unlikely to like a closer location.

It is important that the toilet is located at the maximum possible distance from wells and wells. The optimal distance is 20-30 m.

A country toilet can easily become a source of characteristic unpleasant odors, therefore, when choosing a place for its installation, it is necessary to pay attention to such a parameter as the wind rose, which is specific to your area. Of course, the toilet needs to be cleaned regularly.

Usually a square pit is made with sides of 100 cm and a depth of about 2 m. Before you start digging a cesspool, clearly mark its limits.

The walls and bottom of the structure are to be reinforced. To solve this problem, you can use concrete rings or bricks, rubble stone, boards, etc. are also used. Crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the cesspool and carefully compacted. Brickwork is laid on gravel or a concrete screed is made.

The second stage is the arrangement of the cesspool. The internal walls of the cesspool are subject to mandatory moisture insulation. Such treatment will prevent the penetration of waste from the pit into groundwater. To waterproof the walls, it is enough to plaster or caulk.

The third stage is the preparation of the foundation for the toilet house. Traditionally, such houses are installed on columnar bases. The corners of the building should rest on brick pillars covered with roofing material as a waterproofing material.

The base of the house is assembled from wooden beams. They must first be primed and painted. Such treatment will prevent premature decay of the wood. Assemble the frame and place it on the brick base. Put 4 racks on the frame. Be sure to make sure they are placed vertically. Use bolts for a secure fit. Additionally strengthen the structure with metal plates. Install roof beams, as well as racks for mounting doors.

The roof should have a slight slope. To ensure it, make the front pillars slightly longer than the rear ones. Above the cesspool, arrange a frame of wooden bars for the future seat. The roof must be covered with roofing material and the selected finishing material. The most commonly used slate.

Nail vertical bars or boards to the frame for lining, siding or other material of your choice. Boards are fixed at a distance of 150 mm from each other. The base for sitting and the inner surface of the walls must also be sheathed with clapboard or other desired material.

Knock down the door, fasten the hinges in the appropriate places and hang the canvas. If desired, install fittings and additional elements in the form of a nut, trim, etc.

To make the restroom convenient to use at any time of the day, it needs to be supplied with electricity. Choose a lamp of your choice.

Also above the door you need to cut a window of the desired shape. Through it, the room will be illuminated in the daytime.

So that the country toilet does not become a source of unpleasant odors that poison life, pay due attention to the arrangement of the ventilation system.

Buy a plastic pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and fix it to the back wall of the house with clamps. One end of such a pipe must be deepened into the cesspool by about 100 mm, and the other must be brought out. To do this, you must first prepare suitable holes in the podium seat and roof. Choose the length of the pipe so that it rises above the roof by about 20 cm. Putty the places where the pipe passes through the floors. A special nozzle-deflector is installed on the ventilation head.

This is a traditional version of a country toilet with a cesspool. If you wish, you can opt for a different design, for example, a play closet or a powder closet.

Such a system is a kind of transitional link between the design with a pit and a full-fledged hygienic septic tank. The design is based on a sealed pit. In the future, only special sewage equipment will be able to clean such a cesspool. Consider if there are companies in your area that specialize in providing these services.

If there are problems with cleaning, it is better to immediately abandon the device of such a toilet.

The design works on an extremely simple principle. The toilet is located directly next to the house. The toilet is placed inside the room, and the cesspool is outside.

Dig a hole at least 100 cm deep. Fill the walls and bottom of the pit with concrete mortar. After the mortar on the walls has set, they will additionally need to be treated with a special waterproofing mastic. Also, waterproofing must be installed around the perimeter of the pit. It is best to make it from clay. A layer of clay with a thickness of about 50 cm will be enough. Place a hatch on top of the cesspool. It will be closed with lids made of cast iron and wood. Place insulation between the covers, mineral wool will do.

A sewer pipe is laid through the wall of the house, through which waste will go from the toilet bowl to the septic tank. The toilet requires the organization of high-quality forced ventilation. You can buy a special fan or create natural ventilation, the action of which is based on the temperature difference.

At the end, it remains to install the toilet, connect it to the cesspool, and the toilet will be ready for use. Such a system differs from an ordinary city toilet only in that the effluents are not discharged into the sewer, but into an equipped cesspool.

Such a toilet does not require the arrangement of a cesspool. Instead, a special container is used, installed under the toilet seat. When filled to a certain level, the container is simply taken out and cleaned.

In the toilet room, a container with sawdust, hay or peat should be installed. These materials will need to be poured into the toilet after each trip to the toilet to reduce the intensity of unpleasant odors.

Powder closets are extremely simple and easy to use. For the full use of the restroom, high-quality ventilation must be organized in it.

If desired, after 2-3 years it will be possible to “move” by equipping a clean container in a new place and filling the old cesspool with earth. The fourth time you can “move” to the very first place. Over the years, the waste will completely rot.

Wood is an excellent material with many advantages, but it has one serious drawback - the material deforms and changes in size somewhat during its service life. After some time, gaps will appear between the boards used to sheath the walls of the country toilet. To mask them, you can use a narrow rail. It is enough just to fill such rails over the cracks and the problem will be solved.

Thus, there is nothing complicated in the independent arrangement of a country toilet. You can make both an elementary design based on a cesspool, as well as a more modern and perfect toilet in terms of its characteristics. The choice is yours!

Video - Do-it-yourself country toilet step by step

The first building that is being built at their summer cottage is a toilet. The toilet in the country differs from the city bathroom in the absence of a sewerage system. Therefore, the construction of a toilet in the country is not only the construction of a cabin, but also the organization of a place for the collection and disposal of waste. There are several possible options for arranging a toilet in the country about them and how to build a toilet in the country with your own hands will be described in detail in this material.

Outdoor toilet for a summer residence

Most dachas are used only in the warm season, so the summer or outdoor toilet for dachas is the most popular. This design is simple and well-tested by time. You can build a summer toilet in the country with your own hands from available materials, which is certainly a great advantage.

Fig.1.

Fig.2.

Fig.3.

An outdoor toilet for a summer residence consists of a toilet cubicle and a pit for collecting waste under it. The toilet cubicle in the country can be made of any materials. The pit for the toilet in the country can be made of any size. The depth of the toilet pit depends on the number of users.

Fig.4.

Fig.5.

Fig.6.

However, a cesspool for a toilet in a country house will only work well if the groundwater level is low. If the groundwater level is high, then the cesspool will constantly be heated, and it will overflow all the time. In this case, this type of toilet will have to be abandoned, or a waterproofed container will have to be used instead of the pit. However, then it is necessary to call a sewer at least once a year.

Fig.7.

Fig.8.

Fig.9.

Do-it-yourself wooden toilet for a summer residence

The construction of a toilet in a street-type cottage can be divided into three stages, preparing a waste collection pit, laying the foundation and making a toilet cabin. During construction, it is important to remember that the toilet will serve for a very long time only if the installation of the toilet in the country is done correctly.

Fig.10.

Fig.11.

Cesspool for a toilet in the country

A toilet pit in the country is made with reinforced walls. If you do not strengthen the pit under the toilet in the country, then in a short period of time it will quickly collapse. To strengthen the walls of the pit, it is convenient to use a toilet tank from a two hundred liter barrel.

Fig.12.

If there is a danger of a high groundwater level, then a plastic sealed tank must be used. The barrel is dug into the ground in the place of the cesspool. As the toilet is used, it will have to be cleaned. To facilitate this matter and at the same time not to think about where to put the contents, during the operation of the toilet, it is necessary to add a special composition to it. This composition can be purchased at any country store. It includes bacteria that will process all the waste, after which they can be used as fertilizer.

Fig.13.

If there is no groundwater, then it is good to use a metal barrel. Holes are made in it so that the liquid phase of the waste goes into the ground. The barrel is filled not with soil, but with gravel. Thus, a drainage for the liquid fraction is obtained. A cesspool for a toilet in the country, built according to this principle, can work for more than 10 years and does not require cleaning.

Fig.14.

Fig.15.

Fig.16.

How to make a foundation for a toilet in the country

By and large, such a structure as a wooden toilet does not require a special foundation. However, in order for the building to serve for a long time, the foundation for the toilet in the country is still needed. In addition, if the booth is raised above the ground by at least 10 cm, then the ventilation of the toilet in the country will be ensured in this way.

Fig.17.

Fig.18.

The simplest version of the foundation for an outdoor toilet is to dig holes in the corners of the toilet with a depth of 20 - 30 cm, fill them with sand, and put blocks or a curb stone on the sand. It will also be easy to install a pile foundation, for this you can purchase four screw piles 1 m long.

Fig.19.

Fig.20.

Fig.21.

Drawings of a wooden toilet for a summer residence

The toilet cabin for a summer residence may have a different appearance, but in design it is always the same type. It is made of wooden beams using frame technology. First, a frame is assembled from bars, and then sheathed with clapboard or any other material.

Fig.22.

Fig.23.

Fig.24.

A timber 60x80, 80x80 or 100x100 mm is well suited for the frame. You can use a beam of a smaller section, but then you need to put several diagonal jumpers for the stability of the structure.

Fig.25.

Fig.26.

A frame toilet for a summer residence begins to be built from the assembly of the base from 4 bars 1.5 m long. Next, vertical racks are installed. Be sure to install racks for the door. The distance between the posts should be equal to the width of the door with the frame. As rafters, you can use a board 40x120 mm. A board 20-25 mm thick is laid on top of the rafters, a profiled sheet is laid on top of it.

Fig.27.

Fig.28.

How to make a hood in the toilet in the country

For a summer toilet, it is important to provide a window above the door, this will be the ventilation of the toilet and the source of lighting. Do not glaze this window otherwise the toilet will be hot and smelly.

Fig.29.

Fig.30.

How to sheathe a toilet for a summer residence outside

Outside, to protect against rain, the frame of the toilet cubicle can be sheathed with any material, for example, profiled sheeting or siding. However, the most popular material is lining or block house. For the roof of the toilet, any roofing material is used, for example, profiled sheet.

Fig.31.

Fig.33.

Fig.34.

Toilet seat in the country

Various designs can be used as a seat, from a platform to a hole in the floor. In my opinion, it is most convenient to use a special toilet seat in the country.

Fig.35.

Fig.36.

Fig.37.

Odorless cottage toilet

There are several options for organizing a toilet for an odorless cottage: a dry closet, a peat toilet, a cesspool and a septic tank. All these options differ in cost, complexity of maintenance and labor intensity of construction.

Chemical dry closet in the country

A dry closet is a type of toilet that does not require a sewerage system. Waste products accumulate in a special tank.

Fig.38.

Chemical dry closets are equipped with a tank for waste accumulation and flushing, water and deodorizing liquid are poured into the flushing tank, and a disinfectant-splitting liquid is added to the waste tank. The use of such a toilet is almost the same as the city one.

Fig.39.

The advantage of chemical dry closets is autonomy, and, therefore, it is possible to install them anywhere, including in the house, and not build a special structure.

Fig.40.

Fig.41.

The disadvantage is the need for constant waste disposal. It should be noted that not all chemical liquids allow waste to be discharged into the soil, which means that you will have to have a special place for waste disposal.

Finnish toilet for a summer residence

A peat toilet for a summer residence differs from chemical ones in a simpler design. They do not use chemicals in their work. Structurally, peat toilets are a small tank with a liquid drainage mechanism. To split the waste after each use, it is necessary to pour a little peat into the toilet.

Fig.42. Fig.48. A septic tank is an autonomous sewer system for a home. Due to the complexity of installation and the need for year-round use, they are usually used in country houses. Sewage getting into the septic tank is subject to decomposition. A septic tank does not require regular cleaning.

Given the complexity of installation and the cost of equipment, septic tanks are usually used in year-round country houses.

Fig.49.

We considered all possible options for toilets for summer cottages. Despite the abundance of options, the septic tank and the traditional outdoor toilet for summer cottages are most widely used. The septic tank is good for its autonomy and the ability to organize a full-fledged sewerage system. Typically, a septic tank is used in country houses and year-round cottages. If the dacha is visited only in the summer, then the easiest way to organize a toilet is the village version. For a village toilet, it is necessary to install a cesspool, the role of which is usually played by a barrel, and build a booth on top. Usually the cabin is built of wood. If you decorate the toilet house well, then in addition to fulfilling its intended purpose, it will also be a wonderful decoration of the site.

Often you can find such a statement that the toilet is the face of the owner. There is some truth in this, as this small structure always catches the eye. For this reason, it is important to think in advance where to place it and what it will look like. On the Internet you can find a large number of options for buildings, for example, as an option, a toilet from a metal barrel. This article will detail how to do it step by step.

Choosing the right place

It is not recommended to adjoin residential or commercial buildings. This is due to the fact that it is impossible to protect 100% the penetration of sewage, odors and the spread of fungus. It is important to take into account the prevailing wind direction.

Note! According to existing standards, a cesspool should be located at a distance of at least 10 meters from residential buildings.

However, some dachas are limited in space, so some norms will have to be sacrificed, it is better to choose less painful ones.

Installation of a metal barrel

The first step is to lay the barrel. To do this, a hole of the appropriate size breaks out. If intensive use is planned for the future toilet, then you can bury two barrels, cut through the bottom in one. The advantage of this design is that in the future, if necessary, it can be dismantled.

Note! It is not recommended to use concrete structures.

When the barrel is installed, the place for mounting the toilet structure must be sprinkled with gravel, which should be carefully compacted. After, a uniform layer of sand is laid. The next step is the construction of the base and walls.

For the base or future floor, it is necessary to choose oak boards that are resistant to decay, 4 cm thick. The size of the toilet can be 1.20 × 1.20 m. This area will be enough so that the toilet is not too cramped. The base is laid on concrete supports. Next, the walls are installed. As a rule, a suitable height will be 2.20 m, and boards with a size of 25 × 60 mm. The walls are also assembled from beams from all sides. Each connection should be fastened with stainless steel screws.

If desired, a small window can be installed in one of the walls, which will serve to receive light and ventilation at the same time. Moreover, it is important to consider the location of the door on one side. The frame itself can be upholstered with any building material, for example, the same boards that will be painted in the future or a metal profile. It all depends on the financial capabilities and preferences of the owner.

Installation of the roof of the country toilet and strengthening the structure

When the walls are sheathed, it is necessary to proceed with the manufacture of the roof. The shape of the roof can be single or gable. As for the first, this option is easier. It is important to consider that the roof must be well fixed. For this reason, the method and method of its attachment should be considered in advance. Quite often, strong gusts of wind can be observed in summer cottages. Before the very end of the installation of the roof and walls, you must make sure that all connections are securely fastened. Moreover, the entire structure should be concreted at the corners to the bottom of the foundation.

1.Toilet lid; 2. The rear wall of the house with a door for cleaning; 3. Concrete stands; 3.Pallet design; 4. Front wall with front door; 5.Toilet, top view.

At the very end, a hole in the floor should be cut. It must completely match the previously installed barrel. A seat is made inside, which should be tied to the overall structure of the toilet. Depending on the preferences, the exterior and interior decoration of the toilet is performed. This includes:

• Door installation.
• Roof installation.
• Wiring of light and other necessary items.

As you can see, a country toilet from a metal barrel is made very simply. The most important thing is to be patient and have a desire! Recommended.

Not a single suburban area can do without this structure. You can completely build it yourself, and our tips and recommendations will help you.

Some owners of suburban areas refuse to build a toilet in accordance with all the rules and the issue of waste disposal is always on the agenda, so it’s better to spend time building a toilet once and close this issue for many years. And an interesting design of the toilet can fit very organically into the landscape of the site and even decorate it. Or you can place the toilet in the far corner of the site and make it almost invisible - it's up to you. The main thing is that when building a toilet, construction and sanitary and epidemiological standards are observed.

The most time-consuming step in building a toilet is to dig a hole, but for a real owner this is not a problem, in the end, you can find an assistant or use paid services. Further work is not difficult, the main thing is to follow some rules.

Location selection

As a rule, the toilet is installed in the far corner of the site due to the presence of minor odors. If you visit the cottage all year round, then the toilet can be located closer to the house or directly in the house, leading the sewer pipe into the drain hole. Usually the latter option is used if the house has running water.

Basic rules and regulations when choosing a place for a drain pit (toilet):

- the pit should be located at a distance of not less than 30 m from water sources;

- the depth of the pit should not reach the level of groundwater;

- when installing a septic tank, it must be located at a distance no closer than 15m from the house;

- when using an insulated container, it is fashionable to place a drain pit anywhere, since waste will not flow into the ground, an insulated container is also used if groundwater is too close;

- if it is planned to pump out the drain pit with a sewage machine, then it is necessary to take into account the possibility of the entrance of such a machine and the distance from the entrance to the pit should not be too large.

As a rule, the size of a cesspool in a summer cottage is 1x1 m or a diameter of 1 m with a depth of 1.5 ... 2 m.

Choosing a toilet design

As a material for a toilet booth, wooden bars, boards, corrugated board can be recommended. Then the toilet will be light and no foundation will be required. If you choose brick or logs as the material for the toilet, then you need a foundation. When building a toilet, a brick building does not make sense, since such a room will not be warmer than a light building, and a building made of corrugated board or boards can be easily insulated with foam, glass wool, mineral wool or other types of insulation. Having upholstered the toilet with heat-insulating materials, it will become not only warmer in the cold season, but also cooler on hot summer days.

You can decide on the dimensions of the toilet yourself, usually the toilet has dimensions LxWxH 1.5x1x2.3 m, however, these dimensions may vary at your discretion.

You can also purchase ready-made toilet booths in the store, they can be plastic, wooden and metal. They are easy to transport and assemble.

Necessary materials

Depending on the chosen model of the toilet booth, the necessary materials are purchased.

– Wooden blocks and boards

– Fasteners (nails, screws, bolts, nuts, screws)

– Metal corners for the frame

– Handles, hook or latch

– Roofing material (corrugated board, slate, roofing material, etc.)

- Insulation material, if necessary (polystyrene, glass wool, etc.) and material for interior wall cladding (plywood, thin boards, chipboard, etc.).

- A toilet seat with a lid (you can buy it ready-made or make it yourself from the boards).

For cesspool necessary:

- crushed stone;

- cement;

- chain-link mesh with metal staples;

Instead of a chain-link mesh plastered with concrete, you can use bricks or concrete rings with holes, old large-diameter tires or metal barrels.

The most environmentally friendly is a container - a septic tank. On sale are plastic containers of different volumes, you just need to choose the right size, depending on the length of stay and the number of summer residents.

Required Tools

- hand drill;

- shovels (shovel and bayonet);

- hammer;

- screwdriver;

- Sander;

- electric jigsaw;

- marking tools (tape measure, level, square).

The device of a concrete cesspool or a pit lined with bricks

1. Mark the place of the future pit on the site, the shape of the pit can be either round or rectangular.

2. Dig a hole, observing safety measures (the area where the work will be carried out must be fenced off and outsiders, especially children, should not be allowed to enter it, the soil selected from the hole must be removed to a safe distance).

3. After the hole is dug, drainage must be arranged at the bottom. Stones, large gravel, broken bricks can be used as drainage.

4. After that, the walls of the pit must be covered with a mesh - chain-link (cell size 5x5 cm). Fix the mesh with steel brackets or pins, driving them into the ground. To strengthen the walls, you can additionally reinforce with a metal grate with 10x10 cm cells. After that, the pit must be concreted by throwing several layers of concrete mortar onto the walls. The total thickness of the concrete should be 5 ... 8 cm, then the pit should be left to dry completely.

Alternatively, you can line the drain pit with brick

And you can use ready-made concrete rings

5. The finished pit is covered with a finished reinforced concrete slab, which will be the foundation for the toilet. If there is no finished plate, you can make it yourself. To do this, boards are laid on the pit, the size of which should be 50 cm larger on each side than the size of the pit. The boards must be treated with an antiseptic and recessed to the ground level. Two holes must be left on the surface: for the toilet seat and the cesspool. Install formwork around the holes. A dense polyethylene film is laid on the surface of the boards, on which a reinforcing mesh is laid and enclosed in a formwork around the perimeter. Then the prepared surface must be poured with concrete and left to dry completely. To increase strength and durability, it is necessary to carry out “ironizing” - to process a wet surface after the mortar has set with dry cement.

6. Install a cover or hatch on the cesspool.

7. Install a toilet booth on the finished site.

The device of a cesspool under a septic tank

If you use a plastic septic tank, then the pit is dug so that the inlet pipe is in the toilet, and the neck of the second chamber remains outside the toilet room for pumping out fecal matter. The containers come in different volumes and shapes, depending on this, the shape and depth of the pit will be appropriate. It must be remembered that the size of the pit should be 20 ... 30 cm larger than the selected container, the soil around the plastic septic tank must be well tamped.

Cesspool device with car tires

- For the construction of the walls of the pit, you can use car tires. The advantage of this option is minimal labor costs, and the disadvantage is a small volume and a shorter service life, compared with a concrete pit. You need to start by digging a hole, the diameter of which should be 15 ... 20 cm larger than the diameter of the tires. Lay a drainage layer 20 cm thick at the bottom. Lay tires in the middle of the pit to the level of the ground surface. As it is laid, crushed stone and sand are filled and compacted between the walls of the pit and the tires.

After laying the tires, a strip foundation needs to be built around the pit. To do this, you need to dig a trench 50 cm deep around the perimeter of the toilet, the bottom of the trench must be tamped and covered with a layer of sand and gravel (5 ... 7 cm each), carefully tamping. Then lay the waterproofing of dense polyethylene.

After that, you need to arrange foundation one of the suggested methods:

1. Weld and install a rebar grid and install it in a wooden formwork so that the formwork is 10 ... 15 cm above ground level. Pour concrete mortar into the formwork. After hardening, remove the formwork.

2. Lay out the brick foundation, then plaster it with cement, leveling the walls and top.

It is necessary to lay roofing material on the foundation and install a ready-made toilet or one built independently.

The device of a cesspool from a metal (plastic) barrel

This is the least time-consuming option, but it has a significant drawback: under the influence of an aggressive environment, both outside the barrel and inside, the metal quickly collapses and such a pit can only be used as a temporary one.

For the device of such a hole, it is necessary to dig a hole with a diameter greater than the diameter of the barrel. Barrels with a cut bottom are placed one on top of the other, the space between the barrels and the pit is covered with a mixture of crushed stone and sand and carefully compacted.

As a drain pit, instead of a metal barrel, a plastic one can be used, which can be purchased at a store or use a suitable one by drilling drainage holes in the walls. Such a barrel will not collapse from corrosion and will last a long time. If the farm has a plastic barrel

Building a toilet house

The toilet room can have a variety of designs. Usually its dimensions are: width 1 m, length 1.5 m, height 2.5 m. You can build an inconspicuous structure, hiding it away from the eyes, or you can give it an interesting design that will decorate your site.

Below is a diagram of a toilet made of boards and logs, which looks like a fairy-tale house.

On the foundation, waterproofed with roofing material, fix the frame, which is made of powerful wooden bars.

Then the frame of the house is knocked down and then the walls are upholstered and the roof is upholstered with the selected material. The walls can be upholstered with logs or boards, and the roof with slate, metal tiles, shingles or any other roofing material.

Such a house can be installed on a drain pit, or it can be used as a room for a dry closet.

On the video you can see an example of the construction of a dignity. node in the suburban area

dry closet

An alternative to the capital construction of a toilet is a dry closet, which is a toilet bowl that does not require a separate capital building and a drain pit.

The dry closet consists of two chambers, where the upper one is a toilet bowl, and the lower one is used for the biological treatment of waste products. It contains active substances that decompose waste, turning it into a homogeneous, odorless mass. Usually, the action of the bioactive liquid is enough for 10 days, after which the chamber must be cleaned by removing the contents into the sewer or soil, depending on which active substances are used.

Active substances

are of three types:

– composting
– chemical
- microorganic.

The choice of the type of active substances depends on the type of dry closet.

- for composting, peat is used as an active substance. It has a very high absorbency (1 kg of peat can absorb 10 liters of liquid). The resulting compost is odorless and can be used as fertilizer for garden beds. Such a dry closet can be equipped with tubes to remove unpleasant odors.

- in the toilet, which uses chemicals as active substances, an indicator is installed indicating the need to clean the container. This waste is discharged into the sewer. This type can be equipped with substances that have non-freezing properties.

- in the biological toilet, microorganisms are used as active substances, which, as a result of their vital activity, turn waste into compost. The resulting compost is odorless, environmentally friendly and absolutely harmless to the soil and animals.

Bioactive substances for toilets

Biologically active substances for drain pits are similar to those used in dry closets. They include peat, chemical or bacterial concentrates in their composition, which gradually process waste products and rid the toilet of unpleasant odors. Available as tablets, powders or liquids.

Before use, you need to read the instructions for use, which indicates the dosage and method of application. Such active substances are produced, one package of which is enough for a whole year of use for a cesspool volume of up to 4 tons.