How to drill a log or a thick beam? Of course with a screw drill. How to drill a hole in wood How to drill a log hole diameter 50 mm

We continue to deal with the equipment with which you can work on wood. In general, wood can be drilled with different drills, in the last article we analyzed efficiency, figured out how and where it is recommended to use it.

There are a lot of types of wood drills and very often it happens that they are ideal for some jobs, while not suitable for others at all. Therefore, the home master must understand what and how to drill a tree. Today's article will be about a screw drill, also called a twist drill.

It is made of wood and will help out in cases where it is necessary to drill a deep hole. For example, you have a log house through which you need to stretch a water pipe or a bundle of cables. And only a twist drill will cope with a thick tree. Of course, nothing prevents you from trying to use the usual one, however, as I said, drilling them is inconvenient and not a fact that it will be possible to complete the job.

As you can see, the tip is made in the form of a thin thread, which helps to screw in the drill perfectly at the initial stage of drilling. Chip ejection occurs due to the helical edges (like any drill or brace), so drilling is easy. The shank is most often 6-sided, so the tool is securely fastened in the chuck of a drill or screwdriver.

It is necessary to work with such a drill at low speeds, so it is best to use it with speed control or a powerful screwdriver with a high tightening torque.

But it is best, if possible, to use a low-speed drill with a speed of up to 800 (I recommend a rebir drill).

The most common use of such equipment is the fastening of logs. Workers who assemble log cabins often come to our store and they buy "spirals" with a diameter of 25-28-30 mm and a length of 450-600 mm. As you know, in order to fasten the logs of the log house to each other, it is necessary to drill them from above and insert iron fittings into the hole made. It is very important that the hole is drilled deep, which is why a long drill is needed.

The length range is as follows:

- 220 mm
- 450 mm
- 600 mm (the most popular).

To make holes in a tree with a diameter of 30 mm to a depth of 600 mm, you need a very powerful power tool, so we recommend using a drill with at least 1000 watts (and that is hardly enough), as well as screwdrivers with a torque of at least 36 Nm. Of course, the most preferred option is a low-speed drill, which has a power of 1200 watts, you can’t imagine better for such work. It is very powerful and easily scrolls such a thick drill through solid wood.

The prices for such "consumables" are rather high, at least they are much more expensive than forstner drills and drills. For example, 22 * ​​600 costs around 300 rubles. And the thickest ones come with a price tag for a piece of rubles. They are taken only when it is necessary to drill a hole in a log house for a sewer pipe, etc.

However, given that the drill is powerful and heavy, it performs specific work, then you should not bother about the price. Because all the same, nothing else can drill through 3 logs at once.

Drilling a hole with a drill bit

At first glance, when there is a question about how to drill a hole in wood, there is no doubt in most people: just think, wood is not metal and it is easy to drill. Yes, this is partly true if you want to make not a hole in the wood, but a banal hole. And in order to drill a hole in wood correctly and with high quality, you need to heed the advice of masters in the processing of wooden structures, which are also called wood modelers.

Rules for drilling holes in wood

The rules are definitely simple, but following them will help you save your time, nerves and consumables in the form of wooden blanks and ready-made parts. So, what you need to pay attention to:

• Before drilling, you need to accurately mark the place for the hole.
• Choose the right cutting tool. This refers to drills for working with wood, countersinks, spade drills with a drilling depth limiter and annular cutters of the desired diameter.
• When drilling, the tool (mostly a drill) must be held strictly vertically.
• Use drills designed for specific material only.
• Wooden parts must be firmly fixed in a vise.
• The cutting tool should be pressed tightly, but with a uniform force.

Drilling holes in wood

Countersinking the screw head hole

Let's start drilling simple holes for a screw or. Usually these holes are small in diameter and it is not difficult to drill them. The only thing to do is to countersink the hole before drilling, that is, turn the surface of the wood under the screw head. To do this, fix the wood tightly and make a recess in it with a countersink a little more than the height of the screw head or self-tapping screw. After that, firmly pressing the drill of the desired diameter to the surface, drill the hole you need.

There are situations when you need to drill a "blind" hole for a tenon joint. To do this, you need to use a drill with a limiter, which is put on the drill according to the size of the drilling depth.

It is more difficult to make holes in large diameter wood, as the use of conventional cylindrical drills chip the surface of the material, spoiling its appearance. To successfully cope with this task, blade drills and annular cutters are used.

Drilling with flute drills

Fountain drill

For successful work when drilling with spade bits, secure the wood firmly in a vise and press the tip of the bit against the surface of the material. Then drill (at low speed) a hole until the tip of the drill appears at the bottom of the wood. Stop drilling and remove the drill bit from the hole, then turn the wood over, clamp it in a vise and drill the hole on the other side. This will prevent the bar from splitting when drilling.

Hole cutter drilling

Hole cutter for wood

An annular cutter is used for drilling holes in wood with a diameter of more than 38 mm. Drilling begins with a pilot drill of small diameter, structurally connected with the cutter in one piece. This ledge serves as a guide for the annular cutter.

Here are some tips from the pros that will surely help you when drilling holes in wood:

a) for vertical drilling, you can set the square parallel to the drill;
b) if you often have to do carpentry work, get a special stand for a drill, which allows you to hold the tool strictly vertically, controls the depth of the holes;
c) be sure to use a vise when drilling to avoid splitting the wood;
d) so that the exit hole does not have chips, place an unnecessary bar under the wooden part and drill them together. Especially, this is applicable when making holes in a thin board;
e) if you do not have a drilling depth limiter, wrap the drill in the place of restriction with bright electrical tape or molar tape.

The article will be useful to a person who is planning this work for the first time, and who has a “bitter” experience of labor intensity.

I ran into a problem - to drill a thick wall consisting of several layers, namely: a concrete block 200 mm thick., Sleeper 240 mm., Plastered 80 millimeters on each side, plus an "air cushion" of 100 millimeters is provided between the block and the sleeper , not less. Somewhere I can be wrong with the dimensions, but by measuring the thickness in the doorway, the wall was 730 millimeters.

There is nothing terrible, as it were, work and work, throw water supply into a room attached to the house and that’s all, but the difficulty lies in drilling different materials, plus drilling is available only on one side, from the extension.
In fact: plaster, block, sleeper, plaster. In addition to the puncher, you will also need a drill with a drill bit for wood.

Orders of such a plan are quite rare, once every five years, so to speak, and, accordingly, rarely used tools will be needed.

To drill holes for polypropylene pipes twenty (diameter = 21 mm), I need:

1. a drill for a perforator with a diameter of at least 22 mm (and preferably 25, remember yes that polypropylene expands on hot water?), And a minimum length of 300 mm., Here the thickness of the plaster and concrete block. Have you ever drilled a sleeper with a drill? .. go nuts ..;
2. a drill for wood, of the same diameter, at least 650 mm long, here I take into account the thickness of the conventionally drilled plaster, block, plus the “air cushion” and plus the sleeper itself;
3. a drill for a perforator with a diameter of 12, a length of more than 730, here is the full thickness of the wall, (remember, yes, that drilling is available only from one side? Yes, and towards each other, the horseradish holes will coincide with two, and if you measure out thoroughly, then the slope according to any will be different).

Drilling a wall immediately with a large-diameter drill is very time-consuming and time-consuming, it is much easier and faster to drill a thin one, and then expand the hole with a larger one along the guide. I use this method up to several passes with various drills in increasing order, depending on the diameter needed in the end. The “old-fashioned” method is very effective, you save a lot of physical strength, and what is important in my case is time - at first glance, the work “the cat cried”, just pull out two tubes, BUT the wall ...

So, I went to the store, not familiar with the prices for the tool I need? The price tag for perforator drills, along with the length and increase in diameter, grows not just proportionally, but catastrophically, however, the same applies to screw drills.
Here are some screenshots with price tags:

Normal, right? And this is in our province! I wonder what the cost is in regional and capital cities?

An alternative to a long screw drill is the first one, a condition of suitability - you buy an extension cord, one is missing, you take two, since it’s easy to connect with each other. I did exactly that, I already had one extension cord.

As a result, I received the required tool for an acceptable price, but you can’t explain to the customer that the tool is expensive, to put it mildly, he is not interested. Visibility is only two half-inch tubes brought out, and how you did it is your problem. The bottom line is that an identical order, as I wrote above, will probably fire in the next five years, and the tool will lie idle.

Step by step, as I drilled:

1. from the side of the attached room, I drilled with a 12 mm drill, plaster and block;
2. widened the hole with a 25 mm drill;
3. drilled the sleeper with a feather drill 25 mm;
4. then again setting a long thin drill drilled through the plaster at the exit;
5. with a 25 mm drill, on the other hand, expanded the diameter towards.

Conclusion:

In order to (one-time, or not one-time) drill a concrete wall, say, a meter thick and 32 in diameter, it is not necessary to buy an expensive drill, but you need one meter millimeter 12 ÷ 16 in diameter. The second in ascending order, let it be 25, but already half a meter long, and the next passage is the thirty-second, but again half a meter, you drill towards them. This is me, for example, to convey the idea in an accessible way, variations on the occasion.

And one more thing: with feather drills, the option does not work with a gradual increase in diameter, you drill immediately with a wide feather, the price for them is cheap compared to drills, and I have never seen wooden walls of great thickness.

Two useful additions, naturally based on personal experience:

First:

Being engaged in the installation of pipes, in addition to plumbing, if necessary, I also install sewers. It is no secret that the diameter of the pipes here is larger, from 40 to 150 millimeters, I don’t have a drilling rig with diamond crowns, so I fulfill orders using the same perforator.
I proceed as follows: I mark a circle of the required diameter on the wall, drill holes along its perimeter with a thin long drill, then, according to the same principle that I lit up above, I expand the diameter of each of the holes to the maximum available in the arsenal. Then, replacing the drill with a spatula, and switching the puncher mode to chiselling, I get rid of all that is superfluous. So ... I agree that the work is not pleasant, but this is just one of the disadvantages during installation. It should be borne in mind that this process is relevant with a small wall thickness, say a maximum of 300 millimeters, with a much larger thickness, you put the customer in front of a fact: ordering a drilling rig is a device, as noted above, using crowns with diamond tips. The operation is not cheap, but with all the "breadth" of choice ..., the customer pays, then we go in with the installation.

Second:

Let's say you do the first step yourself: you drill a concrete wall, trying to get a hole with a diameter of 140 millimeters, and you have a “surprise”, in the form of reinforcement (usually in the walls of panel houses) .. You can’t take it with a drill, electric arc welding will help, for lack of, grinder, which is problematic to use, access is difficult, you have to puff, creating access ... in short, I do not advise you to bother.
Exit: cut by welding or gas cutting. There's no such thing? Find! As in that proverb: “It’s better to lose a day, but then fly in five minutes!”

Questions, additions: in the column - comments, and that's all for me today, with respect

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Often when working with wood and materials based on it, it becomes necessary to drill an even round hole. You can use a jigsaw or a milling cutter, but such a tool is not always at hand or it is simply inconvenient to do the work with them. A wood dancer can make the task easier.

What is a wood ballerina

Circular adjustable drill "ballerina" - a device that is designed for drilling round holes of large diameter. The tool has a simple design. It is a shank with a transverse rod, on which movable carriages with cutters are fixed. The bar has markings, according to which you can set the required spread of the cutters relative to the center of the intended hole. A core drill is fixed in the middle of the shank. It serves as a centering element and a support for drilling.

In addition to designs with two cutting elements arranged symmetrically, there are ballerinas with one cutter or even three. In the latter case, they are located on the basis in the form of a disk with grooves.

Tool functionality

A high-quality ballerina is made of high-strength steel, which makes it possible to use the device in working with soft and hard woods.

This tool has an adjustable drilling diameter. This allows you to make holes of almost any diameter. The drilling range limitation depends on the size of the ballerina. Manufacturers produce fixtures with the following cutter spread limits:

• from 30 to 120 mm;
• from 40 to 200 mm;
• from 40 to 300 mm;
• from 40 to 400 mm.

The maximum drilling diameter is limited by the bar on which the cutters are attached. Minimum - shank thickness.

A ballerina drill can be used in any place where the use of an electric jigsaw or a manual router will be inconvenient. For example, it can be assembled and installed furniture, in the details of which it is necessary to drill a neat hole, given the limited space. Another example is an uneven (convex or concave) surface. It is unlikely that it will be possible to do everything evenly and accurately with a jigsaw or milling cutter. It will be difficult to control the tilt of the tool relative to the surface. The ballerina can easily cope with such a task.

Features of working with the tool

The principle of working with a circular drill is simple. A hole is drilled with a centering drill, and then cutters are included in the work. They gradually make a narrow groove, gradually cutting through the material in a circle to the full depth.

The materials used in working with the ballerina are varied: wood, fiberboard, chipboard, MDF, drywall, plastic. One thing in common - the thickness of the part should be no more than 15-20 millimeters. This parameter is limited by the length of the incisors. Usually the manufacturer indicates the maximum drilling depth on the packaging. When trying to drill through thicker material, problems with ragged edges can occur.

The use of a tool with a single cutter is characterized by runout. This is due to the lack of balance relative to the longitudinal axis of drilling. Especially the runout will be felt when cutting holes of large diameter. Cut holes with a drill at low or medium speeds. When working on a drilling machine, such problems do not arise.

Also, a laminated or veneered surface can cause inconvenience during operation. After passing through the decorative layer, drilling proceeds without problems.

A feature of the circular drill can be considered the possibility of adjusting the diameter. The distance between the incisors can be set on a scale on the rod, or more precisely with a caliper. This is convenient if you need to make a hole without gaps for a pipe or a round part.

The spacing of the incisors relative to the center is adjusted separately. It is necessary to expose the cutting parts as accurately as possible. This will save you unnecessary effort during operation and extend the life of the tool.

How to choose the right one and what to look for

Choosing a quality circular drill is quite easy. The main thing is to know the main points that you should pay attention to in the first place, but also not to lose sight of the little things.

The design, a very important point: a wood ballerina can be with one incisor or two or more. For frequent use, it is better to purchase an option with two or three cutting elements. It is easier to work with such devices and the quality of the processing performed will be at an acceptable level.

It will not be superfluous to be able to replace individual parts. Inexpensive circular drills may have a one-piece shank with a non-removable center drill and stem.

Metal, strength and ability to withstand workloads depend on its quality. High-quality tools are made of high-strength steel or alloys. The shape of the shank and holders of the cutters is machined. The bar is usually stamped and made of the same metal.

Cheaper options often use soft metal or alloys that can be brittle. Under load, parts can deform or break. Such a tool will not last long and it will also be difficult to achieve accuracy from it.

Workmanship, the main feature is the absence of backlash and distortion. All parts must be fitted to each other and securely fastened with fixing screws.

The marking of the bar of a high-quality ballerina is stamped. Sometimes divisions are highlighted with bright paint for better visibility.

Cutters, high-quality cutting elements are made of hardened tool steel. On the holders they are fixed with rivets or by soldering. Solid cutters with holders (made from the same metal) dull quickly and are not durable.

The manufacturer, when choosing any tool and consumables, preference should be given to well-known and long-established brands and brands. The most common are Topfix, Stayer, Irwin, Strum.

Purchasing an adjustable circular drill for household use, or if you need to drill a few holes, is completely justified. This eliminates the need to purchase an expensive tool that may only be needed a few times.

For high-quality performance of even such a simple procedure as drilling holes in wood products, you need the right mode and the appropriate tool. When choosing a drill for wood, you should take into account the characteristics of both the material being processed and the hole to be made. On the modern market there is a wide variety of drills designed to make holes in wood, so choosing a tool for solving certain technological problems will not be any particular problem.

Main types

The main parameter, depending on which the division of wood drills into various types, is the design of the working part. On this basis, wood drilling tools can fall into one of the following categories.

Drills of this type are used to make holes in wood with an average diameter of up to 25 mm. It is advisable to use such a tool in cases where not too strict requirements are imposed on the accuracy of geometric parameters, as well as on the quality of the holes. Among the most significant advantages of pen drills, low cost and ease of maintenance should be noted.

Hole type tools are designed for drilling large diameter holes. According to their design, wood crowns resemble a metal glass with a shank, on the working end of which cutting teeth are made. When such a drill rotates, its cutting teeth, interacting with the workpiece, cut a circle of the required diameter on its surface.

Spiral

Wood twist drills are also called screw drills. Their working part resembles a screw. They are used for drilling small holes in wood. Due to the special design of screw-type drills, when they are used, chips are effectively removed from the processing zone. The twist drill also ensures high precision and extremely high quality of the work performed.

These are tools with the help of which, in products made of wood, they create not through, but blind holes with a perfectly flat bottom. In addition, if you use such a wood drill with additional devices, you can drill a square-shaped hole in a wooden product.

With the help of such tools, it is possible not only to drill wood, but also to make grooves of various configurations in wood products. Drills of this type are most often used in cases where complex processing of wooden parts is required, and in order to drill a regular hole, they use a twist drill, a pen or core tool.

Milling drills are designed for drilling a round hole and its subsequent boring to the desired shape. Used when working with wood and thin metal

The shank of drills designed for woodworking is usually cylindrical, but manufacturers also produce them with other shank configurations. So, on the modern market you can buy drills for woodworking, the shanks of which can be:

• triangular, optimally suited for fixing in a three-jaw chuck (torque is ideally transmitted to a tool with a triangular shank, and even very significant loads are not able to turn it in the chuck);
• hexagonal (you can install tools with such shanks both in a standard and in a three-jaw chuck, but at the same time there is a very high risk of turning the drill when it is subjected to serious loads);
• conical (tools with this type of shanks are mainly used to equip production equipment);
• square (rarely used form of shanks, which, however, provide high stability of the tool against turning in the chuck).

Areas of use and design features

As mentioned above, in order to drill a wood product with high quality, it is very important to choose the right drill bit. When making this choice, it is necessary to take into account both the characteristics of the material being processed (in particular, its hardness) and the type of hole to be made. That is why it is very important for home craftsmen and specialists whose activities are related to the processing of wooden blanks to understand both the varieties and the functionality of wood drills.

Spiral (screw) drills

A spiral, or screw, drill can be produced with two types of working tips: conical and with special undercutters. If we compare both types in terms of their degree of effectiveness, then it is almost on the same level. However, they differ in the load perceived by the tool in the process of wood processing. So, in the design of the working head of the drill with a cutter, there is a jumper, which causes significant loads transmitted to the entire body of the tool. They are deprived of such a disadvantage, which, in addition, are much better centered on the surface of the workpiece. The cone head immediately enters the material, and the drill does not lead to the side. Meanwhile, twist drills with undercutters, due to their design features, allow you to create holes in wood with higher accuracy.

Drilling wood with a spiral tool allows you to get accurate and accurate holes with even edges and a smooth surface of the inner walls. It is possible to use tools of this type for drilling wood of any species and almost any hardness, as well as materials made on its basis (chipboard, MDF, plywood, etc.). If the drill is deepened into the material being processed at a low speed, then there is no need to frequently remove the tool from the hole being created to remove accumulated chips.

When designing and manufacturing screw drills, much attention is paid to their geometric parameters. This, in particular, includes the angle of inclination of the helical groove, as well as the ratio of the dimensions of the elements of the working part in the cross section. The angle of inclination of the helical groove and the degree of roughness of its working surface affect the efficiency of chip removal during machining. The geometry of the cross section of the working part determines the strength characteristics of the drill.

The most vulnerable in terms of breakage are long wood drills, the diameter of which does not exceed 3 mm. The risk of breakage increases with the wrong selection of drilling modes, as well as with inaccurate use of the tool. All wood drills that are long should be handled very carefully. A long drill, which can be of any cross-sectional size, is used to create holes whose depth is 20–30 times their diameter.

The category of spiral also includes Lewis auger drills used to make deep holes of a significant diameter in a tree. The structural elements that make up such an auger drill are a massive spiral (auger) encircling the central rod of the tool.

In order for such a drill to be immersed in the material being processed at a given point, its working part has a threaded tip. Since the outer surface of the screw is mirror-finished, the inner walls of the hole being made are also perfectly smooth. Another distinguishing feature of the design of this woodworking tool is the small angle of the groove, through which chips are removed from the processing area.

A spiral type tool designed for drilling wood is available in a wide range of working diameters. If you need to drill holes of large diameter, you should carefully consider the choice of equipment with which the drill will be used. In these cases, a low-speed device must be used, and not a conventional drill, which is not designed to work with a large diameter tool.

Drill bits

Inexpensive pen-type drills can be used to make deep holes with large diameters that are not too demanding in terms of dimensional accuracy and quality. They are produced in the range of diameters of 10-60 mm and various (including significant) lengths. If the length of the pen drill is not enough to make a deep hole in the tree, it can be increased using a special extension cord. However, when using such a device, which allows you to increase the processing depth by another 30 cm, extreme care should be taken, since the junction of the tool and the extension is not very rigid.

When drilling holes in wood with spade drills, it is also impossible to exert strong pressure on the tool, which is a rather fragile structure.

Forstner drills

With such a difficult technological task as drilling holes with a flat bottom in wood products, only a Forstner drill can handle it. Its cutting edges are located on the rim and side surface. Due to this design feature, the grains of the processed wood are cut even before the main blades of the drill come into contact with them, which contributes to obtaining a hole with even edges and a smooth inner surface.