Secrets of the masters: how to properly putty the walls. Do-it-yourself wall putty (advice from an experienced craftsman) What you need for puttying

Starting repairs in the house, you should draw up an accurate, comprehensive work plan and follow it clearly. Particular attention should be paid to the walls. Unfortunately, not a single paint, whitewash or wallpaper can hide cosmetic defects and flaws in wall panels. Even in a new, newly built building, the quality and evenness of the walls leave much to be desired, which means that you will have to do something yourself.

Putty is the building material that allows you to level the walls and get rid of cracks and irregularities before final finishing or decorating walls or other panels, which will allow you to make repairs with high quality.

Types of putties and their properties

Manufacturers of building materials offer putties already prepared and dry, sold in bags in the form of mixtures. When choosing here or another form of material release, you should pay attention to the marking indicated on the package. The letters KR or LR indicate that the putty is intended for ordinary rooms, and the VH marking implies use for rooms with high humidity.

There is no tangible difference between the already finished putty and the dry mix. There are small nuances, such as additional additives, the maximum layer thickness obtained in one application.

An open jar or a prepared amount of putty mixture must be used within 24 hours, otherwise it will lose all its properties, it will be difficult and difficult to apply, and a good result when working with such a tool is not guaranteed.

There are also starting and finishing putties designed for certain stages of puttying.

To dilute the dry mix you will need:

• dry putty mixture;
• water;
• container for mixing;
• construction mixer or drill with a special nozzle.

Usually putty is diluted in a ratio of 1 liter of cold water to 2.5 kg of dry mix.

The resulting putty mixture should be close in consistency to thick sour cream. A too liquid composition will flow down the wall, a thicker one will crumple in a limited area, preventing an even layer of the product from being applied.

It should be remembered that the resulting mixture can neither be thickened with an additional portion of dry powder, nor diluted with water. Particular attention should be paid to preventing the ingress of foreign matter and dirt (particles of old material from the mixer, small stones, etc.).

Required tool

Puttying is not such a complicated process and can be done independently. Various tools are required for the job.

1. different sizes from small to large (some areas of the walls will require spatulas up to 60 cm long). The blades of working spatulas should be even and smooth, without nicks. If your spatulas do not meet this requirement, lightly sand the surfaces with fine sandpaper.

   

2. , it will be needed to apply a hefty portion of putty on especially large irregularities and cracks in the walls.

   

3. . This tool is useful when repairing accidental damage to a fresh layer of putty. Due to the elasticity of the material and its small size, the spatula is convenient for applying small portions of putty to the surface and allows you to level the recesses without creating new irregularities.

   

4. Level .
5. . Fine-grained sandpaper will be very useful for the final grouting of completely puttied walls. And coarse sandpaper is useful before applying the first layer of putty mixture, it is good to rub the walls with such paper, removing irregularities and roughness.

   

6. , firmly fixing and holding the abrasive. It should be remembered that some coatings cannot be sanded after the final layer!

   

7. Primer and priming tools. Brushes and rollers must be clean and free of foreign material.
8. Corner profile or painting grid.

   

Stages of puttying

The whole process of applying putty material can be divided into successive stages.

Stage 1. Removing old paint or wallpaper and cleaning the walls

The main task of this stage is to make the walls as clean as possible. To do this, all stains (rust, dirt, grease) should be removed. Places of localization of mold - treat with specially designed compounds. All decorative and facing materials from the walls must be removed. Remove old plaster. When carrying out the above works, spatulas, building washes and other solutions are used to facilitate the stage of cleaning the walls. The cleaned walls need to be dried, without draft, on average, it takes from 12 to 24 hours to dry.

Stage 2. Primer

Many neglect the priming of the walls, which is absolutely in vain. The surface treated with a primer acquires greater strength and is better suited for puttying, due to the good adhesion of the putty mixture to the primed wall.

“Clean” walls are primed in two layers, if plastering of the walls is supposed to be enough and one layer of primer before puttying. The primer creates a thin film on the surface of the wall and prevents the development of fungus and mold.

To work, you will need two spatulas - the middle one for collecting the working mass from the container and distributing it with a uniform comb over a larger spatula, which will level the putty on the wall. "Working" spatulas may vary depending on the section of the wall.

Experts advise starting work from the left edge and moving clockwise. The wall is puttied with a little overlap, trying to level the putty mixture as much as possible. It is important to avoid applying too much putty. The spatula should be moved diagonally, imitating the movements of car “wipers”, running the tool along the wall at an angle of 30-35 degrees towards you and without too much pressure.

It is important to let each layer dry thoroughly - this will serve as a guarantee of a strong and durable coating.

How to handle corners?

To get a perfectly even angle, you can use a special corner spatula. The main nuance is that the putty mass is applied to the wall itself and leveled with a spatula from top to bottom.

There is an option to use a corner profile, which is glued into the corner before the first puttying or plastering. However, this method is not applicable if the walls are being prepared for painting.

In this case, you can leave more putty in the corners and bring the joints of the wall panels to an ideal state at the final sanding stage.

Stage 3. Applying the first layer of putty

The first layer is usually the densest. If the walls are too uneven, then a special mesh is attached over the entire surface area, which is glued with construction adhesive. If the walls are sufficiently even, then the paint mesh is glued only in the corners (internal and external). The stronger and stiffer the material, the smoother the puttied surface will be.

If there are strobes and deep cracks in the walls, then the putty is first applied locally, having previously primed the cleft, and then the entire wall is treated with putty.

Building brands offer special starting putties for this stage, which have higher elasticity and allow you to apply a layer up to 1 cm thick. But such a layer will dry for at least 24 hours. The recommended starting layer thickness is 5 mm.

Stage 4. Second putty using beacons

This stage of work is similar to the previous one, only in the course of its implementation, the evenness of the wall is constantly checked by a building rule or level. The second layer is much thinner than the first.

An important point: when making the second puttying, you need to “stretch” the surface as best as possible, giving it maximum evenness.

Stage 5. Final third puttying

The thinnest layer, its thickness is not more than 2.5 mm. For this stage, there are also special mixtures, the main task of which is to give the surface smoothness. But, if the previous steps were performed poorly, this layer will not be able to correct the situation.

Stage 6. Final drying

Puttyed walls are dried with closed windows and temperature changes. Sharp fluctuations in thermal conditions and drafts can cause cracks and deformations in the putty coating. Drying using electrical installations and heaters is unacceptable. That is, you need to dry the room with the windows closed, but the interior doors wide open.

Stage 7. Grouting and sanding

To give the wall a final smoothness, it must be sanded using a holder. It is important to understand that when preparing walls for wallpapering, it is necessary to sand with an abrasive with a grain size in the range from P80 to P120. When preparing the wall for painting - from P120 - P150, after which the wall is primed and dried again.

Puttying is not a very complicated process, but it requires patience and certain skills in working with a spatula and tools.

Video - How to properly putty walls?

Today we will learn how to putty the walls in the apartment with our own hands. We will analyze in detail the issue of wall preparation, the selection of putty, its proper preparation, the tools used in the work and the process itself. The article will be useful for both beginners in repair and those who already have some experience.

How to putty the walls under the wallpaper. Wall preparation

The walls are put in order so that they are even, and so that you can then paste wallpaper on them. But the fact is that their initial state can be so bad that it can be premature to think about how to putty the walls, because first you need to close up deep holes in them, then plaster and only then go directly to putty. Therefore, I highly recommend that you first read my article, which clearly presents a plan for working with walls, and putty is just one of the stages.

Wall puttying is carried out in 3 cases:

1. After removing the old wallpaper, when the walls are relatively even and it is not important for you to level them (plastering).
2. After plastering the walls, when you have them standing strictly vertically and ready for further processing.
3. When in some places you need to repair small chips on the wall.

We go in order.

Why do you need to putty the walls, you ask? Well, I took off the old wallpaper and pasted the new ones. Or he leveled the walls with plaster and also glued wallpaper on them.

The fact is that the walls, in any of the above cases, are quite rough, and the wallpaper on them will fall worse than if we took and pre-puttyed the wall. Wall putty is a fine leveling with millimeter precision. That's why putty is good because, on the one hand, it is firmly attached to concrete or plaster, and on the other hand, brand new wallpapers fit perfectly on it.

What putty is better to putty the walls under the wallpaper

First of all, you need to decide on the type of putty with which you will work. There are a lot of them in stores, and it is especially difficult for a beginner to navigate in such a myriad of options offered. To make it easier for you, I will talk about one of the popular Weber Vetonit materials, which I myself constantly use:

We make the following guess. The walls of your house are not the same. Some are load-bearing thick walls facing the street. In cold weather, such walls can freeze severely. And there are interior walls that live at a relatively constant temperature. For these cases, Weber Vetonit has the following options:

• Weber Vetonit VH - in hardened form, this putty is resistant to low temperatures.
• Weber Vetonit KR is simply putty for dry rooms.

How to determine the required amount of putty

After determining the type of putty, you need to calculate, but how much do we need to take it? Usually on the packaging of putties on the back side, everything is painted in great detail. It would be better to go to the store and read this information right on the bag. The fact is that all materials are different and it will be difficult to say the exact amount, approximate - you can!

How many times to putty the walls under the wallpaper

It is very important to evaluate how much you have prepared the wall before puttying. If after plastering the wall is perfectly flat, then of course one layer is enough. If you didn’t plaster the wall, but try to remove irregularities and small differences on the wall due to putty, then the material consumption will be completely different. Usually the thickness of the putty ranges from 1 to 3 mm, in some places up to 5 mm - no more. Therefore, in the most peak case, if you are going to smooth out irregularities up to 1 cm, then in any case you will need to lay the material in 2 layers.

For example, I just had such a case without plaster, when on an interior wall 3.5 meters by 2.5 meters, with a total area of ​​​​8.75 meters, I took 15 kg of Weber Vetonit KR putty.

How to putty walls for painting

If you plan not to glue the wallpaper, but to paint the walls, then in this case they should be literally polished. In this case, at first, irregularities and roughness that can be after plastering are removed with ordinary putty. Then, when the first layer dries, the wall must be sanded, vacuumed, primed and a second layer of finishing putty is applied in a very thin layer. The work turns out to be quite confusing in terms of labor costs, but perfectly smooth walls are worth it.

Given the above, you just need to measure the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls to be puttyed, estimate the thickness of the putty layer that you are going to lay, decide whether it will be one or two layers and, based on the material consumption indicated on the package, calculate how much putty you need to buy.

When making repairs, you need to remember an important thing:. Sometimes, especially if you live in an apartment in which you are making repairs, see, it is better to buy building materials in parts.

Where to buy putty

My experience tells me that it is better to buy putty in large building hypermarkets, such as, for example, Petrovich, OBI, etc. Why? Because all building materials, like food, have an expiration date. For example, putty in the form of a dry mortar, when unopened, may have a shelf life of 12 months, 18 months, etc. from the date of manufacture. Some dry building mixes have a shelf life of only 6 months. Therefore, in large construction hypermarkets, the probability of buying expired materials is much lower than in dubious warehouses for half the price.

Always check the date of manufacture. You can not work with expired putty - this will ruin all your work.

How to prepare walls for plastering. Primer

If you will apply putty on a concrete wall, it is better to prime the wall 2 times. If you have just plastered the wall, then you can prime it 1 time before puttying.

In any case, you need to look at the general plan for working with the walls, which I mentioned above.

How to properly dilute putty and putty walls

If we use ready-made putty in a jar to putty the walls, then we open it and immediately get to work.

If we use dry mortar to putty the walls, then we need to prepare a putty solution. To prepare the solution we need:

• Capacity for preparation of the required volume of dry mortar.
• Steelyard for weighing dry mortar.
• Container for ready solution.
• Measure for pouring the right amount of water.
• Drill with mixer installed.

IMPORTANT!

Putty is not plaster. You can immediately cook a lot of it, because the prepared mixture can live for about a day. Plaster, if we remember, after 20 minutes. starts to freeze. Therefore, estimate how much solution you are ready to put in the next 24 hours.

25 kg = 10 liters

6 kg = X liters

X \u003d 6 * 10/25 \u003d 2.4 liters of water.

1. Pour the right amount of dry mix from the bag into the bucket.
2. Pour the required amount of water into the solution container.
3. Pour the dry mixture from the bucket into a container with water to prepare the solution.
4. We turn on the drill with the mixer installed and begin to mix the dry mixture with water.

You need to mix for about 3 - 5 minutes, until the putty looks like thick sour cream. Then you need to let the solution brew for about 15 minutes and again (not for long) mix again.

All solution is ready. You can use.

The better to putty the walls. Instruments

To putty the walls we need:

• Trowel for throwing the finished solution on the wall.

• Spatulas (Large, medium (small)).

• Spatula rubber (very small).

And below we will consider the most interesting thing - this is the process of puttying the walls.

How to putty walls with your own hands

Puttying the wall should start from one side and move in the opposite direction. The puttying process consists in the fact that you use a trowel to throw a mortar onto the wall, and then use a spatula to disperse it left and right, up and down. When dispersing the putty on the wall, the spatula must be pressed. Care must be taken not to put an excess amount of mortar on the wall so that smudges do not form. If you still put more than you need, disperse this part of the mortar along the wall, where there is not enough putty applied.

When you run out of solution, prepare a new portion and continue working.

The skill of puttying does not come immediately, it needs to be trained. But I'm sure you can do it. After applying the putty and dispersing it, literally after a while, putty in some places can form smudges. To remove them, you need to hold this place again with a spatula.

What is the best spatula to putty the walls? If the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wall being processed is large, then it is better to immediately learn how to work with the largest tool. In hard-to-reach places, a medium or small spatula is used.

Why do you need a small rubber spatula?

It happens that in the process of work, you accidentally leaned on the wall, poked the sharp end of the spatula on the newly applied and leveled mortar, or just suddenly a hole formed on the wall in a certain place. Then you take a rubber spatula, dip it into the putty and gently apply the latter to the damaged area. In this case, it is not convenient to act with a large spatula, because by eliminating the flaw in one place, by pressing a little harder, you can create a new problem in another place with the sharp end of the spatula, so it is better to use a rubber spatula.

The rubber spatula is elastic and allows you to apply very small portions of putty to problem areas, while not destroying what you have already done with such difficulty.

IMPORTANT!

Try not to accidentally get dirt and especially hardened pieces of cement or plaster into your putty solution. The fact is that if this happens, then in the process of applying the solution and dispersing it with a spatula along the wall, a pebble that accidentally hits under the pressure of the spatula will make a groove in the wall for you, which you will have to immediately close up.

That is why the container into which you pour water to prepare the mortar must be clean, and there should not be any leftovers of hardened cement or plaster pieces floating there.

How to putty drywall walls

Evaluation of the work performed

After puttying, you need to look at the wall and understand how evenly you managed to apply the mortar, because then the process of grinding the wall will follow, which consists in grinding off excess micro-bulges on the wall, see. If you are a beginner, then it is quite possible that you may not be able to apply the solution evenly the first time. Don't worry, the next wall will definitely be smoother! However, if you understand that you have puttyed the wall poorly, that during the grinding process you will definitely have multiple pits and grooves (traces from the sharp corners of the spatula), then it makes sense to apply a second layer of putty after the first layer dries.

IMPORTANT!

Remember! A new layer of putty can be applied only when the first layer is completely dry. And this will happen in about 24 hours.

Of course, wall putty is not limited to Veber Vetonit. We have a whole company that manufactures dry building mixes, where you can read about them, get to know them and gain a little confidence in them, if you have never puttyed them in your life.

This is where the article ends. Today we learned how to putty walls. I'm curious, what difficulties did you experience while working? What was your main problem: with a spatula or with an improperly prepared solution?

The difference between putty and putty is only in the spelling of the term

By carefully studying the packaging with building leveling mixtures in hypermarkets, you can find an amazing thing. The same material from different manufacturers can be called differently: putty - putty.
How right? Are there any differences between these mixtures?
Let's figure it out.

Everyone who has ever dealt with repairs knows that a spatula for applying the solution to the surface and leveling it is called a spatula. We can conclude that it is correct to write and say "putty", since in this case the root "spar" is preserved.
But it is not so. Let's explain why.

Origin of the word putty

In Russian, the term putty or putty, denoting the sealing of cracks and surface irregularities with a thick, viscous and quickly hardening substance, came after the German word spatel, denoting a flat spatula, with which the leveling mixture is applied. It in turn comes from the Latin spatha (spoon) or spathula (spoon).
Since Latin is the progenitor of many modern European languages, similar words can also be found in them.
For example:

• In Italian - spatola;
• In Polish - szpadel.

This is interesting. In Dahl's dictionary, in addition to the terms puttying or puttying, there is another one that was used in those days: puttying. Perhaps its use is connected with the Polish sound of the original word.

Spatula - the main tool of the finisher

In each of these languages, a spatula was a tool that was used for their work not only by builders, but also by pharmacists, doctors, and artists. Depending on the scope of application, it had (and still has) a different shape and size, but the essence of its use is the same: a set of a small amount of the mixture, its application to the surface, followed by leveling.

Origin of the word putty

If we take the root “spar” as the basis for word formation, then according to the logic of the Russian language, the terms putty should be considered correct (see Putty for parquet - types, properties, application), putty. But where did the putty come from then? Maybe they are different materials? Then what is the difference between putty and putty?
Today, nothing. But earlier in Russia it was customary to close up various cracks and holes with tow, that is, to peck. Often tow was mixed with liquid resin, which, like putty, hardened after a while, reliably clogging the cracks.

In the photo - the process of gluing a log house

The gluing process, in its essence, is very similar to the actions performed by one's own hands when correcting surface defects with leveling mixtures. The words “puck” and “putty” are similar in their sound. Apparently, the merging of these words led to the appearance of a new word in the Russian language.

How to write correctly

If you ask how it is spelled - putty or putty, they can answer you in different ways. In fact, in modern dictionaries, both of these terms are recognized as equal.
Perhaps with some caveats:

• To putty is a literary form, generally accepted, used in colloquial everyday speech;
• Putty - a form adopted by specialists. This spelling is most often found in regulatory and technical documents (GOST, specifications, instructions for use, etc.).

This is about verbs.
Almost the same story with nouns, but the difference between the words putty and putty is also found:

• Putty is the name of the leveling composition itself, which is applied to the plane to level it and fill potholes, cracks, crevices;
• The term putty refers to the process of applying the mixture, that is, the action performed with it.

Note. It hardly occurs to manufacturers to understand the linguistic features of the origin of terms. Therefore, putty and putty are equally common in stores - what is the difference, we have already found out. She just doesn't exist.

Conclusion

Since our portal is still not aimed at studying the rules of the Russian language, but at helping novice builders in the difficult task of repairing their housing or other real estate, the video in this article is devoted to the actual process of leveling the walls with putty. Or putty - whichever you prefer. The price of the material and the cost of work do not depend on this.

How to putty walls - this question is asked by most people who plan to carry out repairs in any room. It is always more profitable to do at least part of the work with your own hands. A thorough preparation of the walls for subsequent finishing work implies obtaining a perfectly smooth surface, without flaws and roughness. The article will tell you how to do it right.

It is not always necessary to putty the walls to absolute smoothness. For example, this should not be done if the wallpaper, after decorating the surface, hides small scratches from stripping. Putty allows you to remove cracks and pits on the wall, level it well and, if necessary, bring it to a perfectly smooth state.

Thereafter:

• It is much easier to glue wallpaper on even walls than on curved ones. In this case, the glue will be evenly absorbed, and the risk of wrinkling of the canvases will be minimal.
• Putty removes various tubercles from the plastered walls, visible in sunlight, which will make the surface pimply.

Tip: The instructions for puttying the walls indicate: if the old putty, after removing the wallpaper pasted on it, crumbles, it must be completely removed and the surface puttied again.

Tools required for puttying

Before you start puttying the walls, you need to purchase a minimum set of tools for work:

• An electric drill with a nozzle - a mixer. Usually putty is supplied in the form of a dry mixture, into which a liquid is poured in the right quantities - ordinary clean water. For ideal mixing of the putty mixture, a special mixer is used, which will allow you to get a homogeneous, sufficient density mass without lumps and pieces.

• Set of spatulas in different widths. In the process of performing the work, you will need a large and small tool. In hard-to-reach places, it is impossible to obtain a high-quality puttied wall with a large-sized tool, here it is required to use spatulas of small width.
• Brushes and rollers for applying a primer to the surface of the walls. This step cannot be skipped. After priming, a thin film appears on the walls, which significantly increases the strength of the wall and ensures high-quality adhesion of the treated walls, regardless of the type of facing material.
• rule. It may be necessary due to the large unevenness of the walls, when applying putty in a very thick layer. For high-quality leveling of a thick layer of putty, it is convenient to use a metal long rule.
• Building level laser or alcohol. Wall surfaces are often far from perfect. Before you putty the walls yourself, test beacons are installed, with constant monitoring by a laser or spirit level.
• Sandpaper. To obtain a beautiful and very smooth surface, so that it is pleasant to look at, a very fine skin should be used in the final mashing, the ideal result would be a treatment with sandpaper number two hundred and forty. To grout the initial starting putty, the grout should be done with a large coarse sandpaper.
• . When using such a tool, sanding becomes more convenient. This is a special device, on the handle of which there are clamps for fixing the skin, as seen in the photo.

• Containers for the preparation of putty.
• Brushes and rollers for priming walls.

Tip: Wall priming should always be done. It provides a very thin film on the wall, which significantly increases its strength and improves the adhesion of materials.

How to choose putty correctly

What putty is better to putty walls?

According to their composition, they are:

• Cement. They are more moisture resistant, but their big drawback is too high a level of shrinkage.
• Acrylic (see. Acrylic putty - types, features, application). They have excellent adhesion to the substrate.
• Polymer. They have good moisture resistance, they have no shrinkage. The use of polymer putty allows you to get a high quality area after processing the wall. A high price is a significant drawback of the material.
• plaster(see Gypsum putty: its advantages and problems of use). Such coatings do not shrink, their cost is low, they lend themselves well to leveling, but they have low resistance to moisture, which limits their area of ​​​​use.

According to the purpose of putty are:

• Leveling or starting. Have:

1. excellent adhesion of materials;
2. increased strength;
3. fairly coarse grain.

For their manufacture, coarse material is used. It is quite convenient to use such putty to remove large differences on the surface of the walls, to hide existing holes, strobes. For the first time, you can easily apply a layer up to one and a half centimeters thick.

Application of repeated layers is carried out after complete drying of the previous ones. The maximum result can be achieved after the installation of a special masking grid, for even distribution of putty.

The advantage of this technology is that it allows you to lay layers of putty perfectly evenly. In this case, the surface will be more even and sufficiently durable. The coarser the material of the paint mesh, the more even the surface of the walls after processing is obtained.

• lighthouses. Such materials do not differ much from leveling putty. The only difference is the use of beacons. A lighthouse is a rail made of:

1. gypsum;
2. metal;
3. tree.

The part is set strictly vertically, which is controlled by the level. Lighthouses to the walls are fixed on a gypsum mixture, which dries fairly quickly, and then puttying is performed directly. This is how the wall is aligned along horizontal lines. To level the applied putty layers, a rule is used.

Using such recommendations, after the completion of the starting work, you can get a flat surface, which is controlled by the level. Due to the high cost, this type of putty is used quite rarely, and visually they almost do not differ.

• Universal. Combine the positive properties of starting and decorative mixtures. Their cost is relatively high, but the properties are inferior to other coatings. It is better to use for leveling walls that do not have large defects.

• Finishing or decorative(see Do-it-yourself decorative plaster: how to do it right). After applying the lighthouse or starting composition, a finishing coating is performed, which gives the surfaces perfect smoothness, eliminates pores, the smallest cracks.