How to drill a large hole in a tile. How to cut a hole in a tile grinder

Styrofoam insulation of walls from the outside is very common. This material will serve as an excellent insulation and its installation can be completely done by hand, so the price of the work will be much lower. How to insulate the outer walls with foam plastic we will consider today, you will have complete information, and the video in this article and the photo will help you do everything in a short time.

Do-it-yourself insulation of walls from the outside with polystyrene foam is quite simple, even a beginner can easily handle it. The essence of the technology comes down to a thorough cleaning of the surface treated with a primer (see Types of building primers and their scope), and pieces of foam are attached end-to-end to the prepared wall.

In any work, it is important to follow the technology, including warming with your own hands. Although it is believed that polystyrene is a simple material that does not cause difficulties in installation, it also has its own specifics.

To be convinced of the simplicity of its fastening to the surface, it is enough to read the step-by-step technology briefly. But, in addition to the instructions, it is recommended to comprehensively study all aspects of working with polystyrene foam as a heater.

So:

• It is important that the old surface be pre-treated, that is, there are no falling layers of old putty left on it (see How to remove putty from the walls and how much it is necessary) and other mixtures. Insulation sheets are attached to a solid and well-primed surface.
• They work with polystyrene with a special adhesive composition designed for this insulation. In addition to adhesive fixation, I fix the sheets in the corners with dowels for finishing - with “fungus” or “umbrella” hats.
• It is necessary to glue the foam carefully so that the composition does not go to the ends, since these smudges and sagging form “cold bridges”.
• The applied insulation is additionally coated with an adhesive to reinforce the mesh. It helps to keep the insulation sheets in a monolithic layer, on top of which the finishing solution is applied.
• The facade reinforced with reinforcing mesh is protected from cracking and other defects. Visually, it looks like new for longer.

Attention: The choice of fiberglass mesh is a crucial moment, since it is fixed on an alkaline environment, which contributes to the destruction of the reinforcing mesh. Over time, it crumbles into dust, not fulfilling the binding function in full. The facade reinforcing mesh must contain a special composition that impregnates the fibers, preventing destructive processes. Do-it-yourself choice of plaster for wall insulation with foam plastic from the outside

On top of the fixed mesh, the entire outer wall is primed for finishing plaster or other type of finish.

Please note: The type of finishing plaster affects the surface quality and service life, and it is important to choose it correctly.

The most common mixtures are silicone, mineral (cement-based) and acrylic:

• cement mixture vapor-permeable, it responds well to changing weather conditions. It is also suitable for foam and polystyrene plaster, but crumbles over time.
• acrylic blend forms a denser structure, lasts longer, but does not have a sufficiently high vapor permeability.
• silicate plaster“breathes”, and forms a layer resistant to shedding over the mineral wool.

Advantages and disadvantages of home insulation with foam

Styrofoam insulation of external walls has a large number of advantages in relation to other materials.

Let's immediately consider them, and decide how much this material is suitable in your case:

• The method of warming does not require large material costs, but it is quite effective.
• Installation is simple, accessible to everyone.
• External insulation of the facade saves a lot of energy for heating the living space, makes living more comfortable.
• The surface treated with sheet foam is not susceptible to mold or fungi.
• The technology does not require the evacuation of the residents of the house during the insulation, there is no need to work on a new surface, it is enough to prepare the wall for the installation of foam.
• In contact, it is noticeable that the technology is effective- the wall seems "warm", in contrast to the untreated surface. This is due to the fact that the "freezing point" is located inside the insulation, which prolongs the life of the building materials from which the concrete wall or brickwork is built.
• Warming with light materials does not burden the foundation, and this method is recommended for buildings on all types of soils.

There are other options for insulating the facade of residential buildings, for example, spraying polystyrene foam or laying basalt wool. It is possible to combine methods, especially in apartment buildings, when insulation is carried out along the outer wall and in the entrance.

Complex insulation is effective when warming the whole house or entrance, so that energy saving is felt not only in one apartment, but also in the stairwell. This material also has its drawbacks.

You need to familiarize yourself with them before making a choice:

• The thermal insulation of the walls outside with foam plastic has a big drawback, it perfectly allows rodents to live in it.
• The plastered surface crumbles over time and requires reconstruction.
• It is recommended to work only at temperatures above +5°C.

Rules for foam insulation

How to insulate a wall from the outside with polystyrene foam will now be considered in order. This work requires compliance with the technology of work and certain rules that will help to get a positive result.

Surface preparation for insulation

The technology of insulation of external walls with foam plastic begins with the base plane. She must be perfect. Brickwork or reinforced concrete products may have curvature, defects, cracks (see How to repair cracks in brick walls) and gaps, so the insulation of the outer wall begins with high-quality preparation. Before processing, it needs to be made as even as possible, but small concave places can be left as they were by filling them with glue.

Convex places are much more difficult to correct than notches. It is not recommended to leave more emptiness under the sheets of insulation - after a small impact or other mechanical impact on the facade, a fragment of insulation can break or deform.

Caution: Insulation applied to the convex area will peel off easily upon impact. Any drops and irregularities contribute to the fact that the foam will separate. A wall prepared for insulation may have differences within 1-2 cm.

The quality of the facade also plays an important role - the surface should not:

• Crumble;
• crumble;
• Dust;
• flake off;
• Separate in fragments after the glue.

Attention: It is advisable to clean the old layer of paint with a spatula. The wooden surface must be well sanded by hand or sanded mechanically.

It is easy to check the readiness for processing the facade:

• Run the palm of your hand along the wall, it should be clean and dry, you can immediately process it with a primer.
• If a small trace remains, as if from whitewashing, it is enough to sweep and prime the wall.
• Sand (clay, other fractions) crumbles from the wall, the wall will have to be thoroughly cleaned before priming.

Attention: Some low-quality surfaces, for example, sand-lime brick with a cement mixture, will crumble little by little, no matter how much they clean. For this option, a rough treatment is sufficient to remove what exfoliates in large fragments, and then putty or plaster with an adhesive-based mixture. The processing of the facade with a fastening compound with PVA from an airbrush or spray gun is effective.

Insulation installation

Styrofoam for wall insulation from the outside after fasteners must have a flat plane. Also, there should be no cavities at the joints. It should be noted right away that the external insulation of wooden walls with foam plastic is done in the same way as any surface. Only the connection of the foam is mainly done with slate nails.

Important: For high-quality surface insulation, we fix the sheets so that the joints fall in the middle of the fragment, as in the classic brick dressing.

First, fibrous insulation is applied to the gaps. When small cracks are processed, window sills and slopes are prepared, they proceed to the insulation of the main surface of the facade.

The most effective method of fixing the foam from the outside with your own hands is to simultaneously stick and fix it in the corners and in the center with plastic parachutes with hats. With this technology, you should not worry about the durability of the treatment.

• The insulation is applied from below, that is, the lower layer is laid out from the foundation. It rests on the starting bar (wood, aluminium, bed corner), which is mounted in a quick way - with a tool, in equal steps. Some craftsmen do this without the lower rim (bar), but with the starting base there will be a more reliable and high-quality installation - there is less likelihood of displacement of the insulation.
• Without fixing with dowels and a starting bar, the foam sheets will slide down until the glue dries, especially if it is liquid. To guarantee the bottom row must be based on something, but sometimes it is enough to finish the foundation, on which the row of insulation reliably becomes without slipping. A well-wetted surface helps to weight the sheet, which adheres better to the façade. Before final fixing, be sure to press it.

Attention: It is most convenient to work with two spatulas, wide and narrow spatula. A small glue base is applied to a wide spatula, which is convenient to work on a large plane of the facade. Specialists are working on a flat surface with a toothed “comb”. The wall with defects is filled with the “blooper” method, throwing a base with a spatula.

• The adhesive base is applied to the facade, not the foam. It is possible to additionally level and fill all the irregularities and impregnate a slightly crumbling wall.
• It will not be an error to fill the pits with a mixture where the wall is not sufficiently worked out. A thin layer of glue applied to the foam plastic does not provide sufficient impregnation of the surfaces to be glued, and the sheet lags behind even on small bumps.
• On an ordinary wall without defects, several “blunders” are thrown onto the facade, stretched from the center to the perimeter. It is not necessary to throw the same strokes, provided that they are well leveled. It is important that the surface be worked out as much as possible. The more fully the cavities and crevices are filled, the better the facade insulation will be.
• The most difficult thing is to work on the surface, where there are many bulges and irregularities. If possible, they should be beaten or scraped off the foam sheets according to the shape of these nodules. If the wall has multiple defects, it is fully leveled. On small bulges, the adhesive base is applied in a thin layer, but it is important to secure the corners well with hats.
• If the foam sheets are spreading due to the unevenness of the wall, be sure to fill the voids between them with glue or other filler applied by the "sausage". It is carefully laid with a small spatula to form a continuous base, as when grouting tiles. By pressing the sheets, this base is allowed to be evenly distributed between the joined sheets.
• We attach a sheet to the treated surface, carefully adjust it to its place and press it. With a little clapping with your palm, we press the foam into place, aligning the edges under the previous sheet to get a smooth edge or rim. It will be the basis for the next insulation belt applied above. And so to the very top of the facade. It is necessary to pat carefully so as not to make dents on the foam sheets. Especially carefully work on irregularities and defects.
• XPS sheets are sold with a "quarter", which reduces cold bridges, goes into the foam plastic with ordinary squares or rectangles. The installation of EPS will be denser, but it is desirable to additionally roughen it before application, and it will not work to make a cavity under the convex walls.

Attention: Do not rush to fix the foam layers. Experts recommend waiting 2-3 days until the glue under the bottom layer sets well, only after that further processing takes place. When the insulation sits down and is securely fixed, it is reinforced with a mesh.

Do-it-yourself wall insulation with foam plastic from the outside is done slowly, most often, along one wall, less often around. This time is enough for the glued sheets to sit down and securely stick to the facade. Specialists first glue the insulation, then step by step nail the edges with caps for final fixation.

Long-term processing of the facade before reinforcement and primer for putty has its drawbacks, especially if you wish using different methods:

• Firstly, you have to align 2 walls at the corners if the bottom bar was of different thicknesses.
• Secondly, the insulation without lower fixation will slip and it will be difficult to stick it higher or somehow shift it.
• Thirdly, it will be necessary to somehow eliminate cold bridges.
• Fourthly, it is impossible for the foam to overheat for a long time in the sun and soak in the rain, gaining excess moisture. It is more convenient to process the whole house on one wall, but it is easier to adjust the edges around.

Attention: If you have to process areas higher than one floor, it is important to take care of the safety of the paver and the convenience of processing.

Foam fixation

After the adhesive base has dried, the sheets are nailed to the facade. A couple of days is enough, depending on the air temperature, for the glue to dry. It is necessary to work without crushing the edges, but sometimes it is advisable to apply additional washers if the base is crumbling.

• Weather conditions affect the quality of facade treatment with insulation, so it is important to listen to weather forecasts and not start large-scale work before prolonged rains or cold weather. Hammering or drilling layers on a base that is not completely adhered and dried up - there is a risk that the foam will move away from the wall in places.
• Plastic "umbrella" makes a control fixation. A special nail is driven into the sleeve. It is preferable to choose not a metal base, but a plastic one. Preference is given to not the cheapest hats that can be deformed.
• It is better to work with a puncher, drilling holes for fixing. It is better to make the depth of the holes a little more than the height of the fungus in order to allow the debris that falls there to make room for full fixation. The length of the fungus is correlated with the thickness of the insulation, plus 1 cm (for other layers) and an additional 4-5 cm for the wall.
• Experts recommend placing the holes in a certain order - place the fungi at the junction of the foam, and in the center of the sheet (5 pieces). On a problematic surface, there may be more clamps, especially with regard to the edges. Although you have to work a lot with a puncher, this is an additional guarantee of high-quality fastening, pressing the joint. Sheets are closer to the facade. In this case, it is necessary to additionally press the edges and fix. Sometimes you can see how the fungus nailed in the center slightly raises the edges of the foam, if the adhesive mixture has not yet “took”.
• The fungus sometimes does not reach the required level and sticks out, respectively, the drill has failed or worn off, you need to redo the hole. Although this is painstaking work, you will have to pull out the fungus and drill it in order to re-insert it later.

Finishing edges

Upon completion, a revision of the wall is made to eliminate large discrepancies at the joints. Wide holes will have to be foamed by inserting the nose of the gun.

• In areas wider than 2 cm, thin strips of insulation are inserted with foam. When the foam dries, the remnants are cut off and the rest of the protruding defects are corrected. It is better to use a styrofoam grater or a clerical knife.
• Upon completion of the work, the joints of the insulation and fungi are reinforced, primed and puttied with a wide spatula. After the final processing, all "constrictions" should level out, making up a continuous surface.
• The protruding fragments are cleaned with a spatula or knife after drying. The grout is completed with a special grater with emery.

Do-it-yourself wall insulation with foam plastic from the outside is not a very difficult task, but it requires attention. The instructions will help you do everything correctly and in a short time.

From time immemorial, warmth has been listed as the main indicator of home comfort. And if its quantity in the house does not suit you, then it's time to insulate the walls. One of the most affordable, and therefore very popular ways - insulation of a private house with foam plastic.

Styrofoam, aka polystyrene, aka high-quality insulation

The use of polystyrene (expanded polystyrene) in the construction and insulation of houses began relatively recently. But the effect that this unpretentious material showed exceeded all expectations.

Firstly, polystyrene has high thermal insulation qualities, providing both warmth in your home and significant savings in the money that you are used to spending on heating (those who are going to start insulating a private house with polystyrene put it on savings).

Secondly, can withstand fairly solid mechanical loads at the lowest density.

Thirdly, let's turn to the thermal conductivity table and make a small analysis of the indicators presented in it:

That is, it is clearly seen here that both types of bricks are several times superior to polystyrene in terms of thermal conductivity. And if we compare the indicators, then we can easily come to the conclusion that the laying of white brick in half a brick in terms of thermal conductivity is equal to 6mm foam layer. And if, for example, we take a standard foam sheet 25 centimeters thick (these are usually used for insulating houses), then the thermal conductivity of a thin wall increases markedly - to the level if it were built in three bricks. And this is already 75 centimeters, capable of retaining heat qualitatively inside the building.

Thickness and density for home insulation

First of all, expanded polystyrene is distinguished by density. Based precisely on the nuances of this property, the following grades were assigned to the foam: 15 - the most loose polystyrene, the most fragile and least thermally conductive; 25 - has sufficient density, is easy to use, and it is used for construction work and insulation of a private house with foam; 35 is a very dense foam that can be safely used in areas where some load is expected.

Density brand number- this is the thickness of the foam plate in millimeters.

In addition to the above standards, foam sheets can have a density of 100 mm. Ten centimeters thick! This is already, almost finished, a fairly solid wall. Such foam is used to create special conditions in the structure. For example, if a full-fledged cellar cannot be dug out due to the proximity of groundwater, they build a ground storage facility for products with decent wall thickness, supplemented with foam-paste protection.

The technology of insulating the walls of the house with foam plastic from the outside

The process of external insulation of the walls of a private house with foam plastic is not so complicated. so many people work on their own. And they always do great. However, before starting work, you need to break it down into stages, take measurements of the building and stock up on the necessary tools.

The first thing you need to do is find out the exact amount of foam you need to insulate the walls. All that is required for this is accuracy in measuring the outer area and accuracy in calculating the zero point.

ATTENTION! IMPORTANT! Calculating the zero point for each specific wall in the near future will save your home from dampness, mold and excessive moisture.

For high-quality and quick wall insulation, take care of tools and materials in advance. Here is the set you need:

• primer;
• glue;
• Styrofoam;
• putty;
• plinth profile;
• mounting foam;
• reinforced mesh;
• two spatulas: notched and smooth;
• hammer;
• dish-shaped dowels;
• perforator;
• plastic grater.

Make sure that the materials you choose are suitable for outdoor work - and start with God.

Prepare the walls, install the basement profile, mount the foam plates, mask the seams, plaster the facade, level the walls - this is how the general scheme of work on insulating a private house with foam plastic looks like.

Wall preparation

More specifically, then wall preparation- this is cleaning them from dust and dirt, freeing them from various kinds of protruding surfaces: be it an uneven brick or a lighting fixture.

Cracks and gouges on the wall first primed and only after the soil has dried, puttied.

Small cracks (no more than 2 mm) can be left untouched, but local depressions must be eliminated. It can be a piece of the same foam.

Fixing the plinth profile

To get a starting line it is necessary to designate the lower point of the insulated plane, then transfer the mark (using a hydraulic level) to all external and internal corners and connect with a strong cord.

According to this markup, a basement profile is installed, which will hold the first row of polystyrene, preventing it from moving too actively on wet glue.

IMPORTANT! Base profile connections must not be overlapped.

insulation sticker

sticker time foam board on the wall - 20 minutes from the moment of applying the adhesive.

When insulating a private house with foam plastic, the sheet is applied to the wall, taking into account possible displacement (usually 20-30 mm), then it is pressed tightly so that it does not protrude beyond the plane line of the already glued foam plastic and (necessarily!) remove excess glue from the surface.

Each newly glued slab check the level- "jambs" can adversely affect the appearance of the facade, so you need to notice them and control the quality during work, and not after.

For reliability, many owners of private houses use a combined method of strengthening foam sheets: they put it on glue and nail it with nails. This is a perfectly acceptable method if you are not sure of the quality of the glue.

IMPORTANT! Any adhesive for outdoor use is designed for an air temperature of at least +5 C.

In this video, you will clearly see how insulation is made on the outside of a private house with foam plastic with your own hands.

Warming inside

Before proceeding with the insulation of the walls of a private house with foam inside, need to pay close attention to some details:

• the presence of gaps between the door (window) openings and the wall. If there are any, they must be urgently eliminated;
• tightness of windows;
• the quality of the heating system (if the batteries are old, they will have to be changed or sections added).

The preparation of the walls in the case of insulating the house from the inside with foam plastic is identical to the preparatory work outside: we level the walls, remove the old putty and paint, remove all the nails and screws, wash the wall surface.

List of tools and materials:

• Styrofoam;
• antifungal putty;
• glue or cement-based adhesive;
• "umbrellas";
• mesh and tape;
• roller;
• spatulas;
• drill.

The surface to be insulated must be dry, even and clean - a universal requirement for such types of work.

Installation of foam inside is customary to begin from the bottom far corner. Holes are made in the slab and an "umbrella" is driven in. "Umbrellas" in one sheet of foam should be placed on average 5-6, and the cap of each should fit snugly against the surface of the foam (do not stick out and do not "sink").

Judging by the experience of most of the owners who carried out the insulation of a private house with polystyrene foam, it is most inconvenient to mount the last element of the insulation in a row - it must be adjusted in size.

When the insulation is applied, mask the seams and hats of "umbrellas". Regarding the seams: if they are narrow, then they are simply blown out with foam, and the wider gaps are laid with foam scraps.

IMPORTANT! To insulate the walls from the inside, it is better to use thin sheets of foam - 20-25 mm. This way you won't "steal" the place.

A reinforced tape is applied to the finished wall and attached with an adhesive, then a mesh. There is one feature in fixing the grid on the wall: it is embedded in glue, and after drying it is treated with sandpaper.

The final stage is decoration.

brick house

Often it is brick houses with thin masonry walls that need insulation. And often it is brick walls that are insulated with foam sheets.

Attach the insulation in this case adhesive mixtures. They are preferable because of their ability to "cling" even to a not very prepared surface. Although here it is necessary to take into account the element of economy: if the brick mill is leveled and prepared, then the consumption of the mixture, respectively, will be less.

Insulation of a private house with foam plastic - the most common way among the owners of brick housing.

frame house

When insulating a frame house with polystyrene foam, insulation is laid between the skin by protecting it from moisture.

You can use sheets with a density of 50 to 150 mm - they will provide a high energy-saving effect.

wooden house

Thermal insulation produced inside the house, it also plays the role of soundproofing. The walls are sheathed with slabs 4-5 cm thick, leaving a kind of air “cushion” between them and the wall, which will protect the material from moisture.

Inside the house from a bar, foam sheets can be sheathed with drywall.

Insulation of the house with penoizol (liquid foam). What the reviews say

Liquid foam (penoizol)- a modern version of the well-known traditional foam. In terms of properties, it is similar to its “ancestor”, but noticeably outperforms it in many aspects: it has been serving without fail and without problems for as long as 70-80 years, it is not as prone to burning as ordinary foam, if ignition does occur, it does not emit toxic substances. And in terms of environmental safety, he has a solid "five".

That is, now the insulation of a private house with foam can be carried out using the latest type of foam.

According to consumer reviews who have experienced penoizol on their walls, one can judge how much the new material is more profitable than the old one.

82.3% of respondents noted that after being insulated with liquid foam plastic, their heating costs decreased by 2-2.5 times.

86.1% of those surveyed called the best property of penoizol its ability to penetrate into all cavities without leaving the slightest gap.

91.2% of the respondents, as the most convenient, noted the quality of penoizol to fill the cavity between the walls through small holes.

How much does a novelty cost? Prices for home insulation with liquid polystyrene foam

Despite a whole range of benefits and amenities, for the consumer, penoizol will be inexpensive: 600-1000 rub. per m2. True, this is not the final amount. Seriously taking up the insulation of a private house with polystyrene foam (liquid, of course), you are unlikely to be able to cope with this task on your own. You will need to involve a specialist. And this is an additional 1.3-1.5 thousand rubles. per m2.

A set of works on warming a private house with traditional foam plastic with a facade area of ​​50 m2 will cost 10,000 rubles.

Choose material and technology - you, pay - you. To live is for you. In a house whose warmth depends solely on your choice and possibilities. Although, as you may have noticed, foam plastic space materials are not needed.

How to make a hole in a tile? What tools and drills to use? Below we consider the most popular and effective answers to these questions.

Content

Drill bit with pobedite tip

A carbide drill, or rather, with a Pobedite tip, is made specifically for drilling holes in concrete. But it is perfect for flashing through the tile, if, of course, you follow some rules:

1. Drilling should only be done at low speeds.
2. Do not use the impact mechanism of the drill when drilling.
3. It is recommended to drill a hole in the tile with a little pressure on the drill.

When the drill passes through the tile and hits the concrete base, then it will be possible to turn on the impact mechanism of the perforator and increase the speed. Holes in a tile are a simple matter, so any home craftsman who knows how to handle a drill can handle it.

Drilling ceramics with a tile drill

The peculiarity of this drill is a tip in the form of a hard alloy spear, due to which the drilling process is more accurate. Similar drills are used when drilling holes in glass, which, as you know, is quite fragile.

How to make a hole in a tile? The production process consists of several nuances. To prevent the sharp edge of the drill from moving to the side, it is recommended to stick the masking tape on the tile, and then mark the future hole on it with a pencil. Thanks to the tape, the drill will remain in the place where you put it, and there will be fewer chips in the tile.

Tape is not recommended because it can leave an adhesive that can be difficult to remove from the tile, especially if it has an uneven surface. In the future, a dark spot may appear in that place.

Self-tapping screws with LM tip - bedbugs

There is such a situation that it is necessary to make holes in the tile at the object or at home, but, unfortunately, there is no crown or drills. How to cut a hole in this case? It does not matter if there are at least a few self-tapping screws with a tip in the form of a drill, with which you can do what you have planned.

To do this, the diameter of the pipe is outlined along the inner contour, screws are screwed in and out, thus cutting a hole in the ceramic tile. The closer the holes are to each other, the easier it will be to extrude the center.

With all of the above methods, you can cut a round hole of almost any circle.

Crown with diamond chips

This product is a metal circle, the working edges of which are processed with diamond chips. The size of the crowns can have a different diameter, depending on the purpose. It is used for cutting sockets, pipes, faucets, and, of course, the hood is considered the main one for the bathroom.

Readers are interested in how experts make a hole in a tile? The working process takes place during the rotation of the crown, put on the center drill, which is the first to enter the ceramic. Drilling takes place at medium speed.

The quality of the cut hole will depend on the amount of diamond grit. Most often, such a device is used by professionals, since the price of this product is quite high for a one-time job.

The diamond core bit has a variety of accessories, which may include a pilot drill to securely fix the crown while cutting a hole in the ceramic tile. There are crowns without a drill, but it is much more difficult to use such ones, a slight displacement can turn into a marriage on the tile.

If you suddenly have a crown without a center drill, then for precise work you can use a pre-made template from OSB or plywood. To do this, cut out a circle in plywood with a diamond crown. After that, we put the tile under the template on a flat place and you can confidently cut a hole in the tile.

When purchasing a diamond crown in a store, ask the seller what this product is intended for, otherwise, out of ignorance, you can buy a crown for metal, concrete or wood.

Circular drill "ballerina"

The tool is a guide drill, on which a rod holding a movable cutter is fixed. During rotation, the drill and the cutter rotate at the same time, making the necessary hole in the tile.

This product is good for its versatility, thanks to a movable cutter that can be adjusted to any diameter. Accordingly, if you are faced with the task of cutting a hole in the tile for an outlet, take a closer look at this method.

Pros and cons of a circular drill:

• This is a big plus - you do not need to spend money on expensive diamond crowns, it is enough to purchase a "ballerina" and you can cut any hole in the tile for sockets and more.
• But there is also a minus of this tool - it is not suitable for professional use, because after 30 working processes the cutter will become dull and cease to perform its functions qualitatively, because of this ceramics will suffer greatly.

How to use the "ballerina"

All work consists of several stages:

1. A hole for the socket is marked.
2. The movable cutter is adjusted to the required diameter.
3. The icing is cut through from the front.
4. Then the tile is turned over and cut through from the back, but not completely.
5. We finish the cut on the front side.

Cutting a hole with a jigsaw

Now let's figure out how to make a hole in a tile with an electric jigsaw. Such a tool will allow the master to easily make a beautiful and even cut. With it, you can cut through any circle and even shape, be it an oval, ellipse or triangle.

But in order to perform such work, you need to purchase a special diamond-coated blade or, as they also call it, a diamond file. Thanks to this, the cut circle will be completely even.

The process of using a jigsaw:

1. On the front of the tile, we outline the desired diameter.
2. If the cropped area is on the edge, then you can get to work.
3. And if the area with the hole is in the center, then a hole is first drilled in order to insert the diamond blade. A saw string is threaded into the finished hole and led out along the inner circle.
4. The main rule recommends - cut the tile slowly.

Of course, all this can be done with a hand tool, only the quality will be much worse.

Cut out a circle with a grinder

To make a hole in a ceramic tile for an outlet without drills and crowns, you must have a grinder with a diamond wheel. With this tool, you can easily cut through tiles and make curly cutouts.

Figured execution by a grinder on a tile under a pipe:

1. As in the previous examples, first of all, a circle of the required size is drawn on the tile on the front side.
2. A cross is drawn exactly in the center, then we draw diagonal lines to make something like a star.
3. We turn on the grinder and from the center we begin to cut these straight lines in order. It is necessary to heat the diamond circle to the line of the drawn circle, so that subsequently the holes in the tile are even.
4. When all the lines are cut, you can start cutting the circle itself. Carefully and slowly cut the circle.
5. When the triangular pieces fall out of the circle, you can lightly trim the edges with a grinder.
6. During operation, it is not advisable to keep the tile on weight.

It is important to remember (in order not to spoil the branded side of the tile) - it is better to trim on the front part, and not on the working area.

Cutting with a glass cutter

Many home craftsmen often face the problem of trimming ceramic tiles. For one case, buying an additional tool is irrational. Therefore, you can get by with a good glass cutter.

The cut should pass along the front part, therefore, after measuring, the desired size is marked on the tile and carried out with a glass cutter in continuous motion until a well-cut plume is displayed on the tile. With the reverse side of the glass cutter, you need to tap the cut line (seam).

After that, with nippers or pliers, the piece to be cut is removed with a sharp downward movement. It happens that in case of unsuccessful work, notches remain that can be smoothed out with sandpaper or a stone.

When tiling any surface, the master is always faced with the need to make holes in the ceramic tile for a pipe, an electrical outlet. Holes can be divided into internal, located inside the perimeter of the tile, and external, which extend beyond the tile. Also, in shape, they are divided into radius and rectangular. The way to cut a hole in a tile for a toilet, pipe or electrical outlet depends on its shape and location on the surface of the tile.

Using a grinder

The grinder is a versatile multi-purpose tool that is in the arsenal of every home master. It can be used to cut tiles instead of a tile cutter, which is considered a special tool and not every master has it. To work on the grinder, a metal diamond wheel is installed for dry cutting.

Bulgarian with a circle and discs on stone

The peculiarity of the grinder is that it only performs a straight cut. Therefore, an angle grinder can easily make rectangular holes or make a large cut with a radius shape if the contour arc has a slight bend. A smooth arc or a perfectly round hole will not work right away. First, mark the contour of the radius cut and draw a lot of chords. An inscribed polygon should appear inside the outline. After marking, several cuts are made along the line of chords, after which the contour is finalized with sandpaper.

Important! The tool must be equipped with a protective cover. It is necessary to work with gloves and goggles.

In this case, the grinder does not perform a translational cut, but the tile is cut pointwise from the front side along the markings. Thus, if you plan to cut a round hole, you need to take a diamond wheel as small as possible. The larger the hole diameter, the more accurate the cut will be. The chords along the radius contour will be short, and the cut will be as close as possible to the radius and it will take less work with a round bar with sandpaper to refine the edge.

This method works well with tiles. To make radius holes in porcelain stoneware, it is better to use the special tools described below.

Video of the wizard:

Using a jigsaw

A jigsaw is also available to most craftsmen, but it provides more options for curly cutting ceramics. To do this, insert a diamond file into the tool and you can cut a hole in a tile of any shape. To cut the internal holes, you will need a drill with a thin diamond drill bit. They drill a hole on the inside of the contour. A jigsaw file is inserted into it.

Work with glass cutter and pliers

Manually, without using a power tool, you can make a straight or radius cut for a pipe or outlet from the edge of the tile.

In addition to the glass cutter and pliers, you will need a straight or round bar with fine sandpaper. The work is done like this:

• Using a marker on the front side, the outline of the future cutout is marked.
• Before cutting a hole, it is recommended to pre-soak the tile in water. This will reduce the risk of splitting.
• After that, a cut is made with a glass cutter along the applied line. To make the furrow deep, it is necessary to apply sufficient force. In this case, you must not overdo it and not split the tile.
• In order for the glaze to completely split along the cut line, the tile is tapped from the back.
• Then, with the help of pliers or special tongs, they bite off a piece of tile, as if biting into it. Gradually, reaching the intended line, the tile will break off along the cut contour.

With this method, it is possible to obtain lines of any configuration, but there will always be small notches on the edge. They need to be removed with sandpaper.

drilling

You can drill small holes (up to 15-20 mm) using a drill by inserting a conical or spiral drill of the appropriate diameter into it.

Drilling is convenient if the tile is already glued. But usually a hole must be drilled before the tile is glued in order to bring the wire into it or put it on the pipe. Therefore, the tile must be well fixed on a flat surface. Drywall or chipboard sheet is used as a substrate. To reduce the risk of breaking the ceramic during drilling, it must be wetted. It is recommended to fill the slats on chipboard to make a box. The rails are glued with silicone. A tile is placed in a box and filled with water. They drill ceramics right in this box. Water will soften the tile, there will be no internal stress in it, and the drill will be constantly cooled.

The technology for performing drilling in tiles is as follows:

• The first problem is that at the first revolutions of the drill, the drill slides along the smooth surface of the tile. An adhesive tape will come to the rescue, which is glued at the place of drilling.
• Mark the drilling point. It should be on duct tape.
• Drilling begins with a slow speed of the drill, so that the drill does not float on the glaze from a jerk and does not make a scratch.
• After the drill has caught on the tile, the drilling site is moistened with water. During the work of the drill, it is necessary to ensure that the workplace always remains wet.

Using a drill, you can make a hole of large diameter under the sewer pipe. But this method can be used when one or two holes need to be made, since the process is laborious and the quality leaves much to be desired.

To do this, a lot of holes are drilled along the contour of the cutout with a thin drill. Thus, a perforated contour is obtained. After completion, the inside of the hole is knocked out, the remnants of the teeth are cleaned with pliers and leveled with sandpaper.

Drilling with crown and ballerina

If you need to cut a circle of any diameter with high quality and accuracy, professional tile drilling tools will come to the rescue. These include diamond-coated crowns and ballerinas with victorious incisors.

It is easier to work with a diamond crown, since it is a cylinder of a certain diameter with a cutting diamond edge. To center the crown in the center of the cylinder, a conventional pobedit drill is located.

The ballerina is a conventional drill, which has one or two L-shaped pins with a cutter at the end. The pins are attached with a clamp. By pulling out the pin, the desired diameter is set. This is the advantage of the nozzle over diamond crowns, which have a fixed diameter.

Despite the fact that this tool is the simplest and most accessible, some skill is needed when working with it:

• Models with one incisor are more durable, but during operation such a ballerina becomes an eccentric, which leads to vibration.
• Models with two cutters are less durable, it is difficult to set both cutters to the same radius. Because of this, the tool cuts two circles, making a double cut.
• When working, it is necessary to maintain a right angle between the axis of the drill and the surface of the tile, otherwise the ballerina will begin to burrow from one side of the circle. In order to maintain this angle constantly, they produce ballerinas with a plastic basket. It performs the function of a control stop and will be able to help the master maintain the angle.

When working as a ballerina, double-sided drilling is performed. First, a protruding drill makes a hole in the ceramic tile. As the drill deepens, the cutter begins to cut through the glaze. Having cut through the glaze, continue drilling from the back side.

Crowns are sold in sets for standard sizes. Before working with a crown, it is first necessary to drill a central hole into which the crown drill is inserted with a conventional drill.

Video of using the crown:

Modern plumbing is equipped with decorative facing washers on the pipe, and sockets have linings that can block the hole cut by hand or grinder. Therefore, it is not always necessary to cut an even circle, sometimes you can do without special tools.