Through what distance to fix decorative ceiling beams. Installation of imitation ceiling beams and ceiling cornices

Polyurethane foam beams can be mounted on glue or mounted on wooden bars. The first method is suitable for non-load-bearing beams. Fixing decorative beams on glue differs in simplicity and high speed of work, does not demand the special tool and wooden blocks. Anyone can install beams on glue, even those who have never encountered interior decoration. Installation of false beams on wooden blocks is more laborious and takes more time. In most cases, fastening to wooden blocks is not required.

Beams are mounted after completion of finishing work. Before installation, they must be kept indoors for a day. If a installation of polyurethane beams(correctly polyurethane foam) is carried out on glue, you need to read the instructions and check on a separate beam for how long the glue sets. You should also pay attention to what temperature you can work. Typically, for such work, the room should be at least 5 ° C.

Before attaching decorative beams, you need to make marks on the ceiling or wall, cut the beams to the desired length. The markup must be done very carefully, because it depends on how the location of the mounted beams will correspond to the designer's project. To cut beams, use a hacksaw with fine teeth. It is more convenient to cut small fragments with a knife that has a hard, sharp blade. The edges of the beam after sawing or cutting are recommended to be treated with coarse sandpaper.

Installation of false beams on glue

To apply glue, use a special gun or simply squeeze the glue out of the tube. The glue is applied to the edges of the beam in an even continuous layer and pressed against the surface of the ceiling or wall in the marked place. Fastening false beams can be performed by one installer if their length is about a meter or less. In the case when the length of the products is significant, the work is carried out together, which ensures the convenience and accuracy of fastening. If necessary, use props until the glue dries completely.

First of all, the main beams are mounted. Installation of jibs and cross beams is carried out after the adhesive has fully cured, usually after 24 hours.

Amaro recommends doing installation of decorative beams on the ceiling and walls using Spantan-1K glue of our own production. It has proven itself well in terms of reliability and ease of use. The glue is absolutely harmless, quickly seizes, has high strength and good adhesion.

Installation of false beams on wooden bars

For installation, choose bars, the section of which corresponds to the groove of the beam. The bars are attached to the wall or ceiling with dowels along the marked lines after 1 m for each beam. Opposite their middle, a mark is left so that it is visible after the beam is installed. Further installation of decorative false beams comes down to the fact that they are put on the bars and, focusing on the marks left, are fixed with self-tapping screws. Places where self-tapping screws are screwed in are puttied and covered with paint in the color of the beams.

Our team of highly qualified builders-finishers professionally provides services for the installation of decorative beams of all types.


In recent years, decorative beams are increasingly used by designers in the interior of apartments and country houses. This decorative element can be used not only on the ceiling, but also in the design of the walls, thereby creating the illusion of support.


There are several types of decorative beams:
. The first type is beams based on MDF or chipboard with veneer. All components of the beam in this case are connected at right angles. The only drawback of the design is that the joints of the parts can be seen.
. The second type is beams based on the same materials, but the parts in them are connected at an angle of 45⁰.
. The third type is beams made of solid pine or fine wood. The main advantage of this kind of beams is the possibility of additional surface treatment (for example, you can give the surface the effect of an old tree).
. The fourth type is full-bodied solid wood beams. They can act not only as an element of decor, but also play the role of a supporting structure.
Installation of beams begins with preparatory work. First of all, the beams are unpacked and left indoors for at least a day, but more is possible. This is necessary in order for the material to adapt to the microclimate of the room.
To install decorative beams, standard hand tools are used: a drill, a hacksaw, a corner, a ruler, a tape measure, a screwdriver, self-tapping screws and a pencil (plain and wax). The installation scheme is quite simple and consists of the following steps:
. The beam is laid on the floor with a longitudinal groove to the top. Then, using a ruler, the distance between the edges of the sidewalls is measured.
. Then, on the ceiling at the starting and opposite walls, two strokes are applied using a simple pencil. The distance at which the strokes will be located is the result of previous measurements.
. Then we take a breaker cord and connect parallel strokes.
. Along the resulting lines we fasten wooden bars, which will play the role of a frame. The sides of the bars should be flush with the drawn marking lines. A decorative beam will be attached to them a little later.
. We measure the distance between the walls using a tape measure and, in accordance with the measurement results, prepare a beam of the required length. If the beam cannot cover the entire length of the room, then several beams will need to be joined.
. Then we put the prepared beam on the frame of the beams and fasten it to it with the help of self-tapping screws and a screwdriver.
. The final stage in the installation of decorative beams is the masking of the joints. To do this, you can use special pads or a wax pencil of a suitable shade.
Our team will quickly and efficiently perform the installation of beams at the most affordable prices. Individual approach and consistently high quality of services are the main advantages of our team.

Russia has long been famous for its architectural monuments made of wood, and although now there are no conditions for its prosperity, nevertheless, touches of ancient culture still appear in the modern design of residential buildings and recreational areas. This is confirmed by false beams for the ceiling, which can be seen more and more often when entering a restaurant, cafe or private house.

Decorative beams. What is it and why are they needed

For modern design, special, lightweight polyurethane decorative beams have been developed, which in appearance do not differ from wood, but are hollow inside. Such design elements serve not only as a decoration, but also as a device for hiding various defects on the ceiling and walls, and also serve as a box for electrical wiring and even plumbing communications.

What can be done with decorative beams

  • We are talking about decorative design elements - beams that do not bear functional responsibility and, in fact, are fake, because a beam is called a horizontal beam that carries the mass of the ceiling or serves to stiffen the frame (see).

  • Now the Country style is in fashion and when you enter a public institution such as a cafe, restaurant or bar, you can see the decoration of the room with false beams, with lighting devices built into them. Beautiful on the one hand, comfortable on the other.. The product range includes products of different colors, repeating the structure of oak, beech, bamboo, spruce and other tree species.

  • With the help of such decorative elements, the room is given a romantic touch of antiquity, and although the style is called Country, this does not mean at all that the design should have a touch of Western culture.

  • Nowadays, false beams for the ceiling can imitate both rural life and an old castle, and maybe even create an atmosphere of a tavern.
  • To design decorative beams, they also use peculiar belts that imitate a forged strip with rivets. Such decoration will give the room a sense of quality and comfort (see).
  • Like any construction work, the installation of polyurethane false beams begins with the marking of the ceiling. That is, you need to mark the places where exactly the beams will be in order to install wedges to fix them.

Installation of decorative polyurethane beams

  • The wedge beam for the polyurethane false beam is made of wood and must exactly fit the cavity of the device. The cavity itself has the shape of a trapezoid, which is why it is called a wedge (see). For their fastening, dowels and screws are used, with which you can fix the element through the middle, or from the longitudinal side, screwing the screws obliquely.

Distance between wedge-beams - 1 meter

  • Wedges for attaching a polyurethane beam are installed at a distance of one meter, and when marking, it is advisable to make control lines on the side of the future beam so that there is a guide to the bars. When installing the beam on the surface of the walls, you need to apply glue for polyurethane. This measure will serve not so much for fixation, as for a tighter fit so that there are no gaps after assembly.
  • The false beam is put on the wedges and screwed to them with self-tapping screws. Right now, you will need marks made on the side of the wedges, and you can close the screws with a decorative belt or bracket. If the beam turns out to be short, then join it with the next one and, again, close the joining place with decorative elements.

  • After assembling the false beams, you can install consoles, which also do not have a functional purpose, but only serve as a decorative decoration, creating an imitation of supports.
  • I would like to pay special attention to lighting, because the false beams for the ceiling are empty inside, which allows you to hide the wiring and mount recessed lights. Although polyurethane belongs to the category of KM (structural materials), it has a temperature limit, which operates in the range from -60⁰C to +80⁰C. This suggests that the lighting devices that will be mounted in them should not have more than 50W, so as not to create a critical temperature for the crystal lattice of the material.
  • The wiring of electrical wires in the cavity of the false beams made of polyurethane is done in the protective sheath of the cable channel in the form of a corrugated hose. But to install the wire, you will need holes in the wedges, which must be made in advance..
  • The thinnest corrugated cable channel has 10 mm, so the hole in the wedge beam must be made at least 12 mm. For mounting recessed fixtures, holes can be cut with a knife according to the diameter of the console for the cartridge.

Recommendation. When wiring electrical wires in the cavity of the polyurethane false beam, use a metal rather than a plastic corrugated cable channel. In the event of a short circuit, the metal will protect the polyurethane walls of the beam.
For parallel connection of spotlights, loops are made, and you can make them together with a corrugated hose. When the loop is cut, the excess parts of the corrugation can be cut off by pulling it to the required distance.

Conclusion

Artificial beams in modern design help to change the interior beyond recognition without much labor, moreover, when installing such structures, there is almost no debris left. Please note that false beams for the ceiling can be installed independently without resorting to the help of professionals - you just need to have the necessary tool and desire. In order to ensure that their installation is fully consistent with the interior of the room, you can either contact the graphic designer or select a project using catalogs.

Installation of polyurethane beams on a regular ceiling is not very difficult. Such beams are light in weight, and Spantan-1K glue, specially developed by Amaro, is sufficient for their installation.

Attention: It takes 1.5-2 hours for the glue to completely harden. During this time, supports should be placed to support the beams.

With a stretch ceiling, the situation is more complicated. A stretch ceiling is one of the most functional and spectacular design solutions, especially when combined with decorative beams. But just sticking beams to it will not work. There are several options for mounting polyurethane beams on a stretch ceiling.

Attention: When working with a stretch ceiling, gloves should be used, especially if the coating is glossy. Otherwise, it will leave ugly marks.

Suppose the stretch ceiling has already been made, and the beams to be installed have a short length, for example, about 1 meter. In this case, wooden bars should be fixed on the walls, to which beams are attached with self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws can be painted over to match the beam itself, thus making them invisible. Due to the fact that the false beam has a small length, it will not sag. The result is an interesting design solution, as if the beam supports the ceiling.


Installation of long beams to a stretch ceiling

For long beams, the first method will not work, as in this case they will sag. The result is a very unsightly picture in the form of a gap between the ceiling and the beam. This will be especially noticeable with a glossy ceiling coating. Therefore, if you plan to install long beams, it is necessary to make mortgages even before installing the ceiling. They are attached directly to the base ceiling. After stretching the PVC or fabric web, bars are attached to the mortgages through it. Then, the decorative beams themselves are attached directly to the bars with the help of self-tapping screws.


Mortgages can be made from wooden blocks, or you can use universal mounting platforms for a chandelier or special adjustable stands. There is no need to build a massive structure of durable moisture-resistant plywood, as under a heavy chandelier, since polyurethane beams are necessarily light in weight.


The mortgage can also be made from a metal profile for plasterboard structures. However, this method of fastening is more suitable for installing decorative elements with a large weight than for lightweight polyurethane beams.

Mortgages must meet the following requirements:

  1. Be aligned. Alignment is best done using a laser level according to the level of the future stretch ceiling.
  2. If the fabric of the stretch ceiling is planned to be made of PVC, and not of fabric, then the mortgages must be smooth and burr-free. Otherwise, sharp edges may damage the canvas.
  3. Mortgages from wooden bars should be plastered in places of possible contact with the canvas in order to avoid damage to it.


The bars to which the beams are attached are screwed to the mortgages through the stretch ceiling, which means that holes for screws must be made in the canvas. If the ceiling is woven, such holes can be made without fear that the fabric will break through. In the case of a PVC ceiling, the screw holes must be reinforced without fail.

Reinforcement of openings in the ceiling

The most common two ways reinforced. The first is the use of stickers or universal adhesive tape in place of future holes. However, the use of special plastic rings is considered a more reliable and correct way.


An even, thin layer of superglue is applied to the ring, and it is attached to the ceiling. You should make sure that the ring is firmly glued to the canvas, after which a hole is cut out along its inner diameter with a clerical knife. Through this hole, the bar is fastened to the mortgage.

Attention: information is given for informational purposes only. We are not responsible for the consequences of self-assembly. We recommend contacting a specialist.

It's starting to come into fashion again. The functional need for such beams has disappeared, because. the technology is outdated, but that is what gives them a certain charm.

Wooden beams are solid and hollow. They can be made from oak, ash and beech, as well as from cherry or pine needles.

Today's construction industry tools have made it possible to reduce weight, add elegance and lightness to ceiling beams. Now their use is possible both in country houses and in urban buildings.

Types of decorative beams

Scheme of the device of decorative ceiling beams from MDF. They are often veneered and may be accompanied by solid wood inlays.

Beams are subdivided according to their source material:

  1. MDF. Massive slabs, consisting of pressed wood shavings. MDF beams can be called economical. In addition, they are often veneered and may be accompanied by solid wood inlays.
  2. Polyurethane. The most common type of beams due to its cheapness, low weight and a large range of design solutions. This type of foam plastic has excellent impact resistance and strength.
  3. Solid wood. Environmentally friendly, the strongest and most durable type of beams. They are put not only in order to achieve perfection in design. It is they who can perform their original function - the carrier. Wooden beams are solid and hollow. They can be made from oak, ash and beech, as well as from cherry or pine needles.

Back to index

Functional application

Today, beams are often used only in the design field. Hence the many options for their placement: on the ceiling, on the walls. They can be arranged in a certain order, creating a pattern or intersecting. Since the main function - support - has also lost its significance, the use of hollow materials is allowed in full. In addition, beams can hide unwanted ceiling defects and communication nodes. Visually, the beams increase the height of the room.

Let's move on to the general instructions for installing decorative ceiling beams.

Back to index

Stages of installation of decorative beams

Ceiling beams made of polyurethane are the most common due to their cheapness, low weight and a wide range of design solutions.

  • the first step is to mark the ceiling (the measured distance between the ceiling beams is transferred to the ceiling);
  • wooden bars are attached, which will serve as a frame (the sides should be adjacent to the marked lines);
  • a beam of the desired size is selected (if its length is not enough, then several bars need to be fixed);
  • the beam is “put on” on the bars (the connection should be fixed with self-tapping screws);
  • joints can be masked with wax pencils or wooden overlays.

Do not forget that almost all manufacturers do not produce beams longer than 5 m, you will have to dock. There are about 5 options for competent docking:

  1. Winding joints with decorative rope.
  2. Closing the seam with a wooden ring with a large section.
  3. Connection with a wax pencil.
  4. Covering the hole between the joints with copper plates.
  5. Fastening seams with decorative forging straps.

Back to index

Preparing for installation

For the installation of ceiling decorative beams, we need:

Scheme of placement of blanks for mounting decorative beams. The blanks act as a frame.

  • roulette;
  • pencil;
  • miter box;
  • hacksaw;
  • assembly glue (liquid nails);
  • self-tapping screws;
  • dowels;
  • screwdriver;
  • drill;
  • wax pencil.

First of all, after buying a beam, you should remove it from the package, put it in a secluded place and leave it for about a day. This is done in order for the material to “get used” to the local microclimate of the room. Then the markup is done. If the dimensions do not meet the requirements, its length is adjusted with a tape measure, pencil, miter box and a hacksaw. Remember that the correction is suitable for all types of material, except for polyurethane.

After completion of the preparatory work, you can proceed with the installation.

Fastening products made of MDF or polyurethane is usually done with liquid nails or mounting glue (if weight allows). And the connection of wooden (especially solid) bars is made using self-tapping screws. Heavy beams should also be supported. This is done so that the whole structure does not sag. The length of the screws should be 4-5 cm longer than the beam. We drill through holes in the center of the bar so that the distance between them is about 0.5 m. Then we shift the beam to the wall and make marks at the holes, and then using a drill, we prepare holes for installing the dowel. Then the beam is finally screwed to the ceiling. Each docking connection is painted over with a wax pencil to match the color of the bar.

What else to read