The simplest stove in the bath. Homemade stoves for the Russian bath

It's hard to imagine today Vacation home without a real Russian steam room and its main attribute - a stove. Among the large assortment of types, it is difficult to choose a device that meets all the necessary requests and meets the financial condition. After reading this article to the end, you can easily build a stove for a bath with your own hands.

Bath stoves - types and benefits

First of all, you need to choose the right type of heating unit for the steam room so that it heats up quickly and keeps warm during the rest. The main properties that the selected design has are:

1. Compactness;
2. Ease of use;
3. fire safety;
4. Power adjustment.

According to their classification, sauna stoves are divided into heating structures of constant, variable and combined effects.

• Electric heater stoves are referred to as permanent devices. The design of this stove for a bath is a cast iron container with stones that are heated when firewood is kindled. You can start bathing procedures after the stones begin to give out steam when in contact with water. Advantages of the heater: ease of operation, absence of carbon monoxide and fast heating. Electric heaters do not have a special damper that maintains the desired temperature, so firewood should be constantly added, which is not convenient. You can make and install this stove yourself, having received permission from the fire safety inspection. A feature of the heaters is the need to create grounding.
• Combined action furnace is a device that combines the properties of constant and variable furnaces. These models evenly heat the steam room and are in demand among modern owners of country estates. The design has a separation of the furnace and wood compartments, and the water tank may be absent. Such ovens are bought in specialized stores in view of the fact that manufacturing is not a simple process.
• Brick ovens are among the devices for heating a bath with a variable action. Furnace masonry is made of refractory brick, and the stones in it are heated with an open fire. Of the advantages, one can distinguish a long preservation of heat in the room, maximum strength, environmental friendliness and attractive appearance. It takes a few hours to fire up the oven. Low resource savings - a large amount of firewood is spent to kindle such a stove. For the independent construction of this kind of furnace, special knowledge and significant investments are required.

As you can see from the list above, the best option for a bath is a stove-heater. By type of fuel, such a heating unit is divided into:

• Wood burning stove. Firewood of deciduous and coniferous trees is used, this gives the room the right atmosphere and sets you up for relaxation.
• Electric oven. It is mounted in rooms where a chimney is not provided and has a number of advantages, including short heating times, environmental friendliness, compactness and ease of use. I choose this model, you do not have to be distracted by keeping warm, and you will completely surrender to bathing pleasures. The electric sauna stove has significant disadvantage- It consumes a lot of electricity.
• Gas oven. Such heating units are large and consume a lot of gas. If we talk about the merits, then this is ease of use, the speed of heating water and maintaining the set temperature in the room.

On the shelves of shops there is a variety of stoves, but what a pleasure to make it with your own hands.

How to build a metal stove for a bath with your own hands

frame for heating device a high-quality metal will serve, its use does not require special skills and knowledge. When finished, the furnace must have fire safety and a sealed design, in order to avoid carbon monoxide from entering the room.
To get started, you will need the following materials:

• Metal, 6 mm thick, or country barrel;
• Cast iron door; Fittings and fittings;
• Metal lattice for stones.

Below you see the main elements of the future heater:
A do-it-yourself sauna stove is created in stages:

• First of all, a blower with a size of 200x60 mm is made and it is located at the bottom of the future furnace. The blower closes with a cast-iron door;
• At the second stage, a combustion chamber is created. If you use a barrel, then this element is cut out in the middle. At the bottom of the chamber grates are placed, firewood is laid on them to kindle the stove. A chimney is installed on top, for high-quality fastening it is better to scald it with metal.
• The final step is the installation of the heater.

Below are drawings that will help you easily build a do-it-yourself sauna stove.

The sauna stove, whether it is your brainchild or you purchased it in a store, has special installation requirements:

• First, the stove must be tested (without placing stones in it), this will allow you to evaluate the tightness of the seams and the strength of the structure;
• The place of installation of the sauna stove is selected in such a way that one design warms up the entire steam room;
• The walls behind the stove are lined with special tiles that are resistant to heat. Metal sheets are also used;
• Flammable objects must be kept at a safe distance;
• In order not to come into contact with the hot stove, it is protected by a special grate;
• The lounger should be located at a moderate distance from the heating device;
• The place where the chimney pipe exits the steam room to the street is upholstered with a metal sheet, this will prevent the wall from charring;
• The sauna stove itself, created by oneself, is placed on a metal plate, this is done so that accidentally fallen stones do not cause a fire.

Furnace installation is important process, errors in which lead to disastrous consequences.

We make a brick oven ourselves

In order to lay a brick oven, you should know in what order the rows are laid out and which brand of bricks should be used. Below you can see the order brick oven done by a professional.
There are different masonry options, if you are making a stove for the first time, then it is better to choose a simple option, this will not affect the quality of the device. Compared to a heater for a brick stove, they lay out the foundation and cover it with roofing material. Only after that you can proceed to the masonry itself.

The brick for the oven is chosen special, of high quality. A standard brick has dimensions of 250x120x65, which allows you to make even masonry. If you purchase an ordinary brick (it is several times cheaper than a stove brick, then its dimensions may not match the standards. The masonry mortar is purchased at a hardware store or made independently by mixing sand, clay and water. Properly made mortar is similar to sour cream mixture.
It is difficult to explain the process of laying a brick sauna stove, it is best to show it in a photo. Here you can consider each stage separately.

If you decide to buy a sauna stove in a specialized store, then read the recommendations of experts and answer the following questions:

• Which oven do you need: wood burning or electric? If we compare electric and wood-burning stoves, then they note that in the first case, this is ease of use and a wide choice of design. Such devices require energy, which in many cases is not acceptable. Wood-burning stoves are absolutely environmentally friendly, quickly melt and do not depend on electricity. The only disadvantage of this heating unit is the constant need to throw up fuel. For people who follow the traditions of the Russian bath, these shortcomings become an advantage.

• Where is the fire door located? There are two types of door location: inside the steam room and outside (in the rest room). The advantage of the second option is the presence of a fireplace in the relaxation room and the absence of the need to allocate space in the steam room for storing firewood.

• Will you heat water or do you need a stove without a tank? This issue is not even discussed - water is always needed. Firstly, for washing, and secondly, to throw water on the stones. It remains only to decide what volume will be enough for you to carry out full-fledged bath procedures.

• How many stones should fit in the kiln? The atmosphere in the room depends on the number of stones. The more stones laid in the furnace, the softer the steam.

• Which manufacturer is better? This question is probably one of the most difficult, because in modern world There are a huge number of different stoves for baths with different functions and characteristics. To choose a device that meets all the requirements, you need to decide on the functions that it should have. Harvia and Kastor sauna stoves are common.

It is not difficult to build a sauna stove with your own hands if you follow the above instructions and follow all the technologies. If you apply fantasy in the manufacture, then you will get a unique, attractive, and most importantly functional device for heating a steam room.

Original sauna heaters: photo

Below you will get acquainted with unusual and original heating devices for a bath, created by summer residents on their own.
Which stove to choose for your own country bath is an individual matter for everyone, the main thing is that it is strong, durable and meets all safety requirements.

43 photos and diagrams of sauna stoves:

About 25 years ago, doctors finally confirmed: main secret Russian and Finnish baths uncovered, and the discovery was astonishing. One of the consequences of the revival of interest in steam business at a new level is a do-it-yourself sauna stove. Firstly, the demand for bath stoves is still not fully satisfied, so factory-made products are quite expensive. Secondly, both the Russian bath and the sauna are complex hygienic and health-improving complexes, the heart of the bath is the stove, the whole bath is being built around the stove, and it is not possible to foresee all possible combinations of local conditions under conditions of serial production. Therefore, often, even if there are free funds, real connoisseurs first “figure out” a bathhouse in place, and then pick it up or even design a suitable stove themselves. This is where this article is meant to help.

The secret of the steam room

And what is the very main secret of bath health? It turned out that short-term, up to 40 minutes, warming up the whole body to about 40 degrees:

• Destroys cells with damaged DNA, i.e. capable of degenerating into cancer.
• Accumulated slags are broken down into forms that are easily excreted from the body.
• Suppresses a certain gene, the function of which was then not entirely clear. Now it is quite clear - this is the aging gene.

By the way, methods of treating cancer are based on the fact that cells with disorders are not as tenacious as healthy ones. From poisons (with chemotherapy) or radiation (with radiation), they die faster than healthy ones. In fact, the beneficial effects of a bath with a steam room are much wider, and its mechanism is more complicated. But for further understanding, this information is enough.

A little bit in passing

Russian banya is inextricably linked with Russian culture. In particular, many well-known Russian painters and sculptors paid tribute to the banya not only in the steam room, but also on canvas and in round sculpture. At the time of the moral code of the builder of communism, works visual arts such content, of course, was not exhibited to the public, but lay in the storerooms of museums and galleries. The following selection of illustrations aims to fill this gap to some extent.

Sauna with a stove or stove in a bath?

Neither one nor the other. The parameters of the furnace and bath must be linked to each other. Therefore, let us first briefly consider what a bath is. In detail about the device of the bath, the conversation, of course, needs a separate and detailed one. We will only figure out what is essential for the design of a sauna stove.

Russian or Finnish?

There are more than enough disputes about how the Russian bath differs from the sauna. But everyone agrees on the main difference: the temperature and humidity regime. In the Russian bath - 50-70 degrees with a relative humidity of 20-65%; in the sauna - 70-100 degrees at 5-15% humidity. If we turn to physics, then a cubic meter of air in a Russian bath contains 50-80 g of water vapor, and in a sauna - 15-40 g / cu. m. The fact that the steam in the sauna is dry is well known. And from the point of view of medicine with biochemistry, there is also no fundamental difference: both there and there the skin is steamed and becomes permeable from the inside, which helps to remove toxins with sweat, bypassing the usual excretory pathways and not burdening the body. In the sauna, it is not forbidden to “give it with a whisk”, and in the Russian bath you can take a steam bath in a dry way. But the device of the bath itself and the sauna stove are somewhat different in design. Firstly, the Russian bath (see fig.), condo or modern, is a log house; in extreme cases - a box made of timber, lined with a townhouse from the inside. Bulges and depressions inside are necessary to better capture the infrared radiation of the furnace and draw in excess water vapor from the air.

The fact is that the absolute, in grams per cubic meter, humidity in a Russian bath is close to critical for a given temperature range. This accelerates the steaming of the skin and warming up the body throughout its volume, but also increases the risk of unpleasant and harmful heavy steam. The Finnish bath can be both log, and timber, and even frame. But it is necessary to bathe in it in a cap - it protects the hair follicles with sebaceous glands from drying out, which can lead to premature baldness or, conversely, to the appearance of thick and coarse hair-awns, especially on the eyebrows, and excessive hair growth in the nostrils and ears . In relation to the furnace, all of the above means the following: the sauna stove must first warm up the walls of the bath, and only then the air in it. Otherwise, even in the sauna, heavy steam may appear, which at such temperatures is very harmful.

How does someone soar

About 20 years ago, the then good friend of the author, a seasoned Ukrainian owner named Vasily and nicknamed Khakhluy among his own villagers, built himself a Russian bathhouse. The author, who previously helped him in the device Abyssinian well, invited to take a steam bath. Melted, settled down. Vasya scooped up some dark brown liquid and pumped it up on the heater. Shibanulo, and - the author felt that he was flying to the moon. At first, he attributed this to a habit - before that he had not bathed for about 5 years. But from the second portion, it “led” the same way. Being already mentally prepared for the next volley, he determined by sensations: euphoria of clearly unnatural origin. - Vasya, what are you pouring on the stove? - That infusion of cannabis. - Vaska, what are you, poof at all? Not only is it a drug, but from such a dose the motor can become! - That yak is dope there ... and the heart of the maine kripke ... clean your eyes kindly ... But let's get back to the baths and sauna stoves.

Bath device

A bath can be either a cramped closet without a foundation, or a solid building, comparable in area to a city apartment. We will return to the second, because. only a brick oven is suitable for it, slowly giving off heat; with a small volume of the steam room, up to 30-35 cubic meters. m - cast iron. In a small one-room bathhouse, you can also put a stove welded from a steel sheet.

Both baths can be light - made of linden or birch, or heavy - made of oak. It is undesirable to build a bath from coniferous wood, as well as from maple, walnut, ash. This wood, when heated for years, especially in an atmosphere with a high content of water vapor, releases volatile substances that are not always useful. The sauna is not so critical to the material of the walls, it can be built even from seasoned pine. The “heaviness” of an oak bath is explained not by the severity of the wood, but by the presence of tannins in it. A heavy bath is not for women and children. And it serves for 5-8 years, then the tannins disappear. But for a strong man, who is able to run a kilometer without being out of breath and without feeling a beating heart, a heavy bath will only give strength and vigor.

Note: according to one version of the famous fairy tale, Alyosha Popovich went out to the Serpent Tugarin several times, but he was able to defeat him only after taking a good steam bath in a heavy bath.

What does this mean for the oven? First, the value of thermal power. If for a light bath enough 0.5 kW / cu. m of room volume for linden and 0.7 kW / cu. m for birch, then for an oak bath you need at least 1.2 kW / cu. m.

Note: the indicated values ​​\u200b\u200bare valid for a ceiling height of 2.2-2.4 m. A ceiling above 2.5 m in a bath is generally undesirable.

Secondly, the weight of the stones for the heater. What stones are needed there, we'll talk below, and by weight you need 2.7 kg / cu. m, for birch 3.6-4 kg / cu. m, and for oak 6 kg / cu. m.

Security

burns

In an atmosphere with a temperature of 50 degrees, almost any touch to a metal heated to or above it gives a second-degree burn, with a blister. Easily conductive heat metal quickly gives it to the steamed, intensively cooled by sweat glands skin. Nowadays, the problem of thermal safety of sauna stoves has been solved: there is an inexpensive, poorly conductive, durable and resistant material on sale - basalt cardboard. A fire-fighting blind area is made from it, they cover the screens of furnaces such as potbelly stoves, etc. From basalt cardboard on wooden racks, you can also make a fencing of the furnace, it is strong enough for this.

frenzy

In hot, humid air, carbon monoxide and nitrogen oxides are likely to form. Therefore, it is possible to “pump” into the furnace with a flow-through heater (see below) only after the end of the furnace and the removal of ash. In any case, it is advisable to lead the furnace door with a blower through the wall into the dressing room, insulating it from the partition in terms of heat with the same basalt cardboard if the furnace is metal.

Fuel

Only good for a bath. It is the physical chemistry of wood burning, the subtleties of which cannot be considered here, that makes it possible to organize the heating of the room from the walls to the center. Coal quickly gives off the first heat - volatile components - and then the remaining carbon (pure carbon) smolders for a long time, which is good for heating, but in the bath it will give heavy steam. Complete replacement firewood "from the forest, of course" there will be fuel pellets from sawdust or straw. They can be recognized by their size: these are poles or logs with a diameter of 30-70 mm. Pellets are also produced specifically for baths, but they are disproportionately expensive. In any case, a bag of pellets costs a little, and a test fire will show what this variety is good for. In terms of physical chemistry, gas with automatic control of the flame by external temperature sensors is also good for baths, but this design is not for do-it-yourselfers. Industrial gas ovens for baths are very expensive and not always reliable: gas fittings that provide 100% safety at an outside temperature of 60 degrees and above are not yet in production. The same applies to bath electric furnaces; Let's mention, the heating element is not even fuel, but still a heater.

Kamenka

Any wood-burning sauna stove is a stove-heater. This means that it has a heated container for stones. The stones work like a heat accumulator: they absorb the first heat, and then give it away with radiation; due to the weak permeability of the stone mass, the convection from the heater is not very strong. As a result, the furnace heats 2/3 or more of the heating time with infrared rays, which ensures that the walls, floor and ceiling are heated before the air and the furnace body itself. In relation to the times of heat transfer by radiation and convection, the opposite is true.

stones

Firstly, in order to comply with the above conditions, it is necessary that the ratio of heat capacity to thermal conductivity of stones be higher than that of brick, not to mention metal. This is provided by dense volcanic rocks: basalt, diabase, gabbro, soapstone. They can be recognized by their severity, dark color, and smooth or very fine-grained fracture.

Brecciated rocks: granite, diorite, syenite, labrador, etc. not suitable for thermal performance. Metamorphic rocks are completely unsuitable: limestone, dolomite, marble, shale. In addition to complete non-compliance with the requirements of heat engineering, when heated, they can also emit harmful organic matter, because. often contain bituminous components.

Note: beautiful veins in marble - this is precisely the bituminous inclusions in it.

Secondly, the stones for the heater should be with a more or less smooth surface and a rounded shape. At the same time, the ratio of their surface to volume is the smallest (the smallest is for the ball), which ensures the desired mode of heat accumulation / heat transfer. In the old days, they began to build a bathhouse only after they had accumulated enough stock of rounded pebbles for the heater.

Stone laying

Equally important is the way the stones are laid. For a flow heater (see below), the largest, a fist or two in size, are placed at the bottom, then gradually reduced in size so that upper layer consisted of pebbles the size of a thumb knuckle. For a deaf heater, they are laid vice versa: a trifle, which provides the largest area of ​​\u200b\u200bthermal contact, down, and large ones upstairs.

Flowing and blind heaters

A home-made sauna stove can be with a deaf or flowing heater. The deaf heater is separated from the firebox and/or flue gases solid partition and open at the top. It can be pumped into it during the heating process, the stones never need to be sorted out, they remain clean. But, due to the small area of ​​​​thermal contact with the firebox, the deaf heater heats up more slowly. This is especially true with an increase in the size of the furnace, when the area of ​​contact of the pelvis with stones increases more slowly than the volume of stones. Therefore, a deaf heater can only be made in a metal furnace with a power of up to 25 kW, which will provide light steam in a one-room bath with a volume of up to 30-45 cubic meters. m. It is generally impossible to arrange a deaf heater in a brick oven, it will not warm up through a brick.

Note: the ceiling in a bath with a stove with a deaf heater should not be higher than 2.2 m. Otherwise, heavy steam is not excluded.

In a flow heater, the stones are placed in a casing on a grate above the firebox, and the flue gases pass through the stone mass before going into the chimney. A stove with a deaf heater is more difficult, because. a hermetically sealed loading and cleaning hatch is required in the casing of the heater. It is possible to heat such a stove only with firewood that does not give carbon deposits, for example, aspen, or pellets. It is possible to give steam only after complete, up to gray fluffy ash, heating. Stones periodically need to be removed, washed and cleaned. But on the other hand, the stone backfill warms up over the entire surface area of ​​the stones that make it up, and very quickly. This removes any restrictions on the size of the furnace and its power. You can independently make a stove with a flowing heater with a power of up to 50-60 kW, for a bath of three compartments of 50-80 cubic meters. m.

Furnace material

Bath stoves are made of cast iron or welded sheet metal. provides ideal warm-up mode and, at correct execution, excludes heavy steam in a bath of any volume. But for its construction, full mastery of the art of the stove-maker is required., careful selection for quality and preparation of materials, because she works in difficult conditions. Only possible with flow heater, i.e. you can give a couple only after complete combustion fuel. The minimum heating time until the bath is ready is 3-4 hours. After long (more than 3-5 days) breaks in using the bath, it is necessary to dry and heat the furnace with accelerating furnaces, otherwise there is a high probability of microcracks appearing in the body of the furnace, especially dangerous in the bath as a source of waste. According to doctors, more than 70% of cases of burning people occur in the bath. As a result, the brick sauna stove is also very voracious. heats up quickly; a bath with it is ready to receive visitors within an hour and a half after kindling. Critical to the design; in case of unsuccessful execution of light steam, do not wait. Cools down also quickly; in order to properly take a steam bath with the whole family, the stove needs to be heated. This is not such a drawback, because. the metal does not crack, but without a fireclay brick lining, a welded furnace can only heat a one-room bathhouse up to 20-25 cubic meters. m volume. A furnace cast from cast iron, according to heat engineering, approaches a brick, because the thermal conductivity of cast iron is low, and the heat capacity is high. In terms of cost and ease of use - to welded. Most industrial sauna stoves are cast iron.

Choosing an oven

Which stove is best for a bath? Which one will you have to buy, and which one can you make yourself? It depends on the volume of the bath and the nature of its use. For big bath into three or four compartments, about which below, only a brick oven or a large industrial cast iron iron is suitable, with a stone backfill of 150-250 kg. Such baths, as a rule, are collective for commercial purposes and are constantly heated. We will further consider the design of the furnace for it, but just as an example of complexity, although industrial conditions for its construction are not required.

Note: a brick stove with a flowing heater is suitable for both a Russian bath and a sauna. In the latter case, they simply heat it more strongly and do not splash anything into the heater.

For a private bath, heated once or twice a week, but designed for a family with in-laws and also a multi-room, but smaller area, a factory-made cast-iron stove would be the best option. There are many models for sale different power And price categories; we will touch on them. All of them allow underflooding when washing, and many are equipped with a hot water circuit. And finally, for a country or small individual bath, for a family of 3-4 people, with one or two compartments, one of the home-made steel furnaces described below is quite suitable. Which of them is more suitable for which bath is indicated in the description.

Everything big, real

Bath

Let's decide first what kind of bath we can build. If the hut is up to about 3x4 m or an extension to the house of the same size, this section can be skipped, except, perhaps, for information about the arrangement of beds and bath equipment. Although this is already known to everyone. Here we will describe the bath, arranged, as they say, according to complete scheme. Her plan is shown in Fig. on right. Designations:

1. Capital (bearing) wall;
2. Light wooden partition;
3. dressing room;
4. washing department;
5. steam room;
6. Lying, it may not be, but in return - bridges to the reservoir;
7. Sauna stove with a deaf heater;
8. Furnace firebox;
9. Kamenka;
10. Chimney;
11. The foundation of the furnace (flooring is conventionally not shown);
12. Sand bedding;
13. Double entrance door;
14. Ordinary single door;
15. Fiber window, approximately 400 mm wide and 250 mm high. It is necessary that, if necessary, quickly release excess heat without chilling the compartment;
16. Ordinary swing window;
17. Water heating register (water heater);
18. storage tank hot water, suspended from the ceiling;
19. Steam room inventory: tub with hot water, ladle, brooms. Gangs, benches, soap, washcloths - in the washing room (4);
20. Polaty;
21. Tub with cold water.

We will give the necessary explanations. About what the walls of the bath should be, it has already been said. By paragraph 7 - it is understood that a cast iron stove for a Russian bath is installed. The disadvantages of a deaf heater in it do not affect how the heater works and the cast iron of the stove itself. And give at any time to the heater, which will immediately warm up again, where it is more convenient. To item 9. The stove on the foundation should be located so that the projection of its center of gravity (and not the center of the chimney, as is often incorrectly written) falls on the geometric center of the foundation. Otherwise, the furnace may warp due to the heating of the soil under other conditions of its stability. To item 10. The device of the chimney is shown in the figure, which shows the sectional view of the bath. Fire safety for a bath it is vital, and factory furnaces with elements and materials of chimneys, as a rule, are not completed, with the exception of its lower knee with a gate. This must be taken into account when drawing up an estimate for the bath.

To pp. 11 and 12. The design of the furnace foundation is shown in fig. below. Its foundation must be necessarily separate and not in any way in contact with the foundation of the building. Sand filling is also mandatory; without it, the stability of the furnace cannot be achieved. Fire-resistant blind area (dark blue in the figure) - from basalt cardboard.

Note 6: for cast iron oven with a power of up to 20 kW, a simplified foundation is possible from ready-made reinforced concrete monoliths laid directly on the ground.

To pp. 17 and 18. There are many designs of homemade stoves with a built-in hot water tank. They all have a common vice: the water in the tank boils before the heater warms up. Keeping the tank empty and running hot water into it is then dangerous: from instant release a large number a steam oven might just explode. It is also impossible to make a safety valve in the tank or open its plug: the uncontrolled flow of water vapor into the room will give heavy steam. Therefore, the only acceptable solution is a U- or W-shaped hot water register in the firebox in combination with storage tank, see fig.:

However, if the bath is not used every day, then the heated water will cool in vain. Here again, the only acceptable solution is a bathhouse in the form of an extension to the house, and along with the bathhouses, the branch pipes of the register of a kitchen or heating stove are brought into the tank. Then the tank will be a common hot water storage tank for the entire household.

Note: factory furnaces with a correctly calculated hot water circuit, of course, this does not apply.

To pp. 19 and 20. The inventory for the steam room is wooden, see fig. Otherwise, burns cannot be avoided. Beds need two or three tiers, see next. rice. on the right. So each of the steamers can settle down according to their taste and health. It is not only a question of taste - you can put a stove of less power in the same bath and take a steam bath for several people. Very noticeable in terms of fuel costs.

And a brick oven

And if you want to make a bath completely in the old fashioned way? Or, let's say, several owners agreed to distribute expenses, bath days, hire a stove-maker, and jointly build a bath in general according to all the rules? Well, in order to know what you need to get in the end, and to control the quality of work - in fig. on the right is a brick stove for a bath. We will give the order below, but for now let's talk about materials and accessories:

• All parts in contact with flames or flue gases - only fireclay bricks; in fig. (below) highlighted in yellow.
• The seams between fireclay and ordinary brick, between any brick and metal - from 6 to 10 mm.
• Halves and three-four bricks are ready-made, with smooth edges. Chopped or sawn by a grinder, they will go anywhere except for a sauna stove.
• All doors and the grate are cast iron, others will not last long in the bath.
• The grate of the heater is made of channels; best of all - pieces of used rail, i.e. forged in the cold wheels of a train or tram.
• Masonry - medium fat with sand 1:1.
• Sand - calcined, washed and sifted through a sieve with a mesh of 0.15-0.25 mm, ravine or mountain, with ribbed granules. river sand with rounded granules for a sauna stove is not suitable, it gives microcracks.
• Facing - from the front, smooth and with rounded corners, brick. This will give optimal heat transfer in both convection and radiation modes.

The fat content of the solution is checked “on a stick”. Planed, wooden. Let's say a mop handle. They put it into the solution, mixed to the density of sour cream, take it out and look. A continuous layer of 1.5-2 mm should remain. If it runs off, leaving gaps, the clay is too thin. If bumps or lumps are visible, it is too oily. Now ready-made dry clay of any fat content is sold in construction stores. If they dug the clay themselves (this must be done from a depth of at least 1-1.5 m), and it is too greasy, then crushed brick can be added. Not sand! Brick is made from clay. But it is not the best way, and not because oily natural clay is a valuable raw material and it is not so easy to get it. It is much better, although more troublesome, to grease the skinny ravine clay. Then there will definitely not be any foreign particles in it that cause the same microcracks. Grease the clay by grinding:

• Dry clay broken into small lumps is poured into a barrel for 1/4-1/3.
• Fill to the top with water.
• The mixer is “pounded” until a homogeneous slurry is obtained.
• As soon as the top of the batch begins to lighten (this means that a precipitate has begun to fall), the upper third of the solution is drained.
• When all the clay settles and is visible through the water, the rest of the water is drained, and the silt coating is removed from the “cap”.
• Mix the masonry mortar and check for fat content as described.

As a rule, one extortion is enough. In the old days, stove-makers for wealthy customers laid sauna stoves precisely on labored clay. And now in industry, clay is fattened in a similar way.

Ordering and drying

The order of the furnace for the bath is shown in fig. on right. The principle of masonry -, i.e. dressing of seams is necessary only between rows, and in rows the seams can be untied. The first row is laid out dry on a sheet of metal laid on a foundation and covered with a sheet of basalt cardboard 4-6 mm thick. Seams between fireclay bricks - 3 mm. Undercutting the corners, where necessary, is done with a grinder with a stone circle No. 220-240. On the 22nd row, the filling of the heater is conditionally shown; here it ends. Backfilling is done after drying the furnace and accelerating furnaces. The oven is dried for at least 2 weeks at a temperature of 20-30 degrees, i.e. you need to build a furnace in the warm season. After drying, you need at least 4-5 accelerating furnaces with high-quality fuel (aspen wood or pellets), with an interval of 12 hours. Bookmark fuel for the first acceleration give 4-5 kg, and gradually increase to the maximum. With a break in the furnace for more than a week, one accelerating furnace is needed for a third of the load, and after a month of inactivity - 2-3 with an increase in load from a quarter to full.

Video: brick sauna stove

We take care of the metal

Now let's try to choose a prototype for a welded homemade stove. Drawings of some well-proven designs are shown in fig.

Bath potbelly stove

This one differs from the well-known one by the presence of a tray for stones and the bottom of the firebox paved with dry, without mortar, fireclay bricks. On the arches on the sides of the heater (from 8-12 mm steel bar) they put a bucket or boiling water with water when kindling. It is not so much the stones that heat it, but the convection currents between the screen and the furnace body. This contributes to the creation of an optimal mode for warming up the bath, and a 20-liter decoction heats up in 30-40 minutes, covered with a lid, up to 50 degrees. It is quite enough for two and there will be more for a child. A screen for a sauna potbelly stove is even more necessary than for a heating one: the stone tray disrupts the circulation of hot gases in the furnace, and the stones take a lot of heat for themselves. It is undesirable to impose thermal insulation on the screen when the volume of the bath is close to the limit, it must effectively emit IR to the outside. Therefore, in this case, a fence must be made for the stove. A sauna stove is suitable for a very small bathhouse, up to 20 cubic meters. m volume. It does not need a foundation, it can simply stand on a layer of basalt cardboard. The height of the direct chimney is 4-5 m, the damper is not needed. The draft is regulated according to the season and the weather by a sliding damper made of a galvanized strip that covers part of the holes in the firebox door, but at least 2 should not overlap. Sauna potbelly stove can be drowned during washing. You can give no more than 0.25 liters at a time with an interval of at least 20 minutes, otherwise the heater will get cold and heavy steam will come out. Kvass in a small bath is more than enough.

Note: do not give bottled store-bought kvass. Instead of bread, the spirit is such that you can even endure the saints. Soon, probably, children will also be made from powdered concentrates.

Without brick

This is an all-welded stove made of 4-6 mm sheet for a small sauna, also up to 20-25 cubic meters. m. The design is simple and clear from the figure, it heats the steam room quickly, which is good. But there is nowhere to attach a water heater, which is bad. On the hatch of the heater, a maximum of a bucket will heat up to 40 degrees in an hour. It is not necessary to screen this stove, but it is desirable to isolate it. Most of the heat goes into the stones anyway, the screen simply has nothing to reflect. Therefore, in such a simple stove, it was necessary and blew: there is no vortex in the furnace, and the efficiency, which is already low for sauna stoves, will come out completely unimportant. The grate is made of fittings welded along.

in a case

A brick oven in a metal case made of 3-4 mm steel is already suitable for a sauna, and for a Russian bath of 30-40 cubic meters, which it will heat up in 2 hours. Therefore, a U-shaped hot water register can be built into the smoke circulation, during which time it will give out into the accumulator of 40 liters of 50-degree water. Enough for three or four. The masonry is made of fireclay, the stove is without foundation. The screen is not needed for the reasons described above, but the fence is necessary - the temperature of the case is more than 100 degrees. Before washing and steaming, the oven must be completely heated; keeps warm for about an hour.

From the barrel

This stove is similar in properties to the all-welded sauna stove. It is just as difficult to put a water heater in it. But it is very simple in execution and therefore suitable for giving with a sauna-shed up to 15 cubic meters. You can heat it during washing / steaming, but you can’t press it in any way: for the sake of simplicity of design, a cleaning / loading hatch is not provided in the heater. Therefore, with frequent use, this stove will be short-lived. This stove is made like this: a concrete slab is placed directly on the ground, or a mini-pit is poured with concrete. Then a cube is laid out from an ordinary red brick; at the top, fittings are embedded in the masonry, forming a grate of the heater. On this pedestal they pile metal barrel without bottoms and lined from the inside with fireclay on clay. You can simply coat the inside with a layer of very thick (plasticine consistency) fatty clay solution of 50-60 mm. Fireclay bricks will also go a little, they are put upright with a spoon. Finally, the top of the barrel is welded with a sheet of 2-4 mm steel with the first chimney elbow welded into it - a cut of a 100 mm pipe - and the sauna is ready.

Fast

This stove is also of a country type, or for a hunting lodge. It is already made entirely from a barrel and can be installed directly on the ground. The grate of the heater is made of welded fittings. The inner lining is the same as the previous one. The oven heats up the bathhouse-closet of cubes by 10-12 in 15-20 minutes. and cools down just as quickly. Therefore, it is designed, without underflooding, for washing alone with a little steaming, or hastily together. But with such a speed of bathing procedures, there is no danger that the water in the boiler will boil, and here it is arranged according to the principle of titanium, covering the chimney. The capacity of the boiler is 15-20 liters, which is enough for one or two.

Video: a simple homemade metal stove for a bath

About brick cases

You can find advice to cover metal furnaces with bricks on the outside, this supposedly improves their properties. In fact, the outer lining does not improve anything, but only worsens. The metal of the furnace, not being able to give off heat, heats up to orange and quickly burns out even with a thickness of 8-10 mm. And the heat transfer to the heater, even if it is deaf, even if it is flowing, almost does not improve. The outer lining only does not release IR, and such a furnace most often produces heavy steam.

Pipe stove

Here in the figure - a stove for a bath of large diameter.

Pieces of 525-mm pipes rarely lie in the trash, but if there is one, this is a godsend:

• No foundation needed, just insulation from the floor and walls.
• Heats a bath up to 35 cubic meters.
• A deep, double-heated deaf heater allows you to pressurize the firebox at any time.
• The mouth of the firebox extended forward with a blower easily goes into the dressing room.
• The round shape in the section gives the optimal combination of radiation with convection, which is why such a stove heats the bath almost twice as much as the “bourgeois” one at almost the same heat output.
• The heater tray in the smoke circulation is covered by a U-shaped hot water register without the slightest loss of the qualities of the stove.

Note: The water heater must not be placed flat. It is necessary to tilt slightly across so that the hot water supply pipe is higher than that of the return flow.

About hot water boilers

Not every sauna stove can be so easily integrated with a hot water circuit. And to heat water for a bath in the kitchen and carry buckets is nonsense. And it is not always possible, because a bathhouse can stand on the outskirts. But you can attach an annular hot water boiler to any sauna stove by putting it on the chimney pipe. The degree and time of heating can be adjusted by moving the boiler up and down.

From waste materials, in order not to master and order complex welding and tinsmith work, a reliable and durable boiler is well obtained from two worthless rims of automobile wheels and a piece of pipe suitable diameter, see fig. Excess holes are welded without special care with any suitable pieces of metal. The boiler is attached to the chimney by the protruding ends of the axial pipe with clamps.

Purchased

If you have sufficient funds, buying a stove for a bath is not a problem. Models, as already mentioned, are offered a lot. The world's leading producers are Finland and Russia. The Finns make Helo, Kastor, Harvia, Narvi, Iki, Upo, Tulikivi and others. Kastor is called the "stove Mercedes", and, I must say, the Finns do not take money "for an asterisk". Of the Russian ones, Termofor, Teplodar, Ermak, Inzhkomtsentr VVD, Vulkan, Sukhovey are known on the market, but firstly, Troika can be especially noted. These are solid, expensive stoves for wealthy customers or commercial bathing establishments. In Finland itself, in saunas you can often find Troikas, which, with equal quality, reliability and durability, are much cheaper than Mercedes from the stove. "Troek" is produced wide the lineup, see fig., different power and configuration. The disadvantage, and that conditional one, is only one: a large, in comparison with analogues from other manufacturers, weight. The installation of Troika, designed for the company, requires a strong, reliable foundation and a whole team of workers.

Bath stoves “Troika”

This is explained by the fact that the company, without further ado, achieves ideal bath heat engineering in an “oak” way: by increasing the thickness of the material and the weight of the stones. In Troikas, the load required according to specifications can exceed 250 kg, and the entire furnace pulls more than a ton. Cast iron ATBs have long been popular among a wide range of consumers, see fig. below, well-proven for small private baths and affordable. Of the models available for sale, only ATB2 had a serious defect: boiling water in the boiler before the heater warmed up. But craftsmen quickly found a way out: they turned the firebox lid upside down, opposite to the standard installation. At the same time, the path of flue gases in the heat exchanger was reduced, and at the cost of some decrease in efficiency, which is not significant for an infrequently heated bath, the water was heated just in time.

But the stove had to “turn the horns” before its installation, because. the chimney hole went back from the firebox, and then why not break the ceiling, attic and roof? Therefore, they soon came up with another method: they put something under the legs of the tank (it just stands on the body of the furnace) to lift it from the firebox. This method of adjusting the water temperature in the boiler is applicable to almost all ATB models.

Camping bath

Camping baths were invented by tourists. But not those who buy tours to Thailand, but those who go anywhere at any time of the year and in any weather. In the Sayans, during the spring thaw, on a day trip to the bathhouse, oh, how you want ... your whole body aches, and squelches from dirt and behind the scruff of the neck ... It will be on the ointment if there is a hollow next to a flat place for a tent with rather steep walls for a fire. Then - aluminum tubes from the tent frame or easel backpacks; in winter from ski poles. They connect the pipe segments with socks washed in the snow, they dry out so quickly, tied with laces from vibrams. It remains to build a fire, bring the end of the pipe with an upward slope into the tent, and put its other end into the flame, but so that the mouth is away from the fire and fresh air enters it, see fig.

Such a bath saved not only from dirt and fatigue. The author knows a case when, thanks to her, the group survived in a critical situation. On a winter night, a tree fell on the tent. After that, only one could move, but there was no question of going for help. Then he built a hut from spruce branches, dragged his comrades there, then built a stove from a fire with a pipe, and stoked it until the deadline passed and the rescuers came. In the hospital, everyone then lain from a month to six months, two received a disability - but everyone survived. And without a shelter with heating at minus 15-20, they would freeze in an hour or two.

And after baths?

There was once an acquaintance of the author - a Finn. And in Finland then there was a dry law, and the valiant representative of Scandinavia regularly came to Leningrad for the weekend to get drunk there to death, in a lying position, to the green serpent. Once he caught himself at the beginning of a drinking bout, decided to quit and asked him to give him a bath. Russian, with a broom, from which the birch spirit penetrates to the marrow of bones. Having steamed properly, I concluded: “You know, your bath is still different” - “Why?” - “After your tea I want. Strong. With jam "-" And after yours? - "Vodka. Many. woman. Seldom". However, such a difference is explained, most likely, not by the actual difference between the Russian and Finnish baths, but individual features Eino and a string of his previous sprees.

The size of a brick oven for a bath depends primarily on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe steam room, and the number of people who will regularly bathe is also taken into account. Whether the sauna is seasonal or not, it will be used for heating and cooking, or just for heating the steam room.

Projects of brick ovens for a bath

It is very rare to find a ready-made brick oven project that suits 100%. Needs to be improved and redone. ready order. In this case, make the necessary adjustments, drawing in detail each row of bricks, and show the corrected order to the specialist.

Even if even minor changes have been made, consultation is highly desirable. The stove in the bath should be safe, so the opinion of a competent specialist is very important.

When adjusting the project, you need to remember several features of laying brick ovens:

• The firebox in heaters is usually made of a large size, and to ensure a normal combustion process, it is necessary to ensure a good air flow. Therefore, the blower and the blower door should also have a decent size.
• To ensure a good flow of air into the fuel chamber, it is better to lay the grates along the blower channel. But finding a grate of the required size is often problematic, therefore it is often necessary to install several smaller grates across the blower.
• If the heater is located above the firebox, the height of the firebox must be at least 55 cm. The best option- 8 or 9 rows of bricks. In this case, they will heat up to high temperatures. Reducing the height of the firebox will not lead to faster heating, but to a decrease in the temperature of the stones and the accumulation of soot between them.
• If wooden structures are not protected by refractory materials, the distance to the brick kiln cannot be less than 30 cm.
• Before laying bricks on a clay-sand mortar (information on the mortar is available in the article), lay them dry according to the plan, starting from one of the corners, pick up the bricks right size so that the width of the seams does not exceed 5mm. And only then lay on the solution.
• After laying each row, it is checked for verticality and horizontality using building level. The accuracy of observance of angles can be checked by installed plumb lines. Correct even the smallest deviations.
• When installing the doors, the masonry starts from it, fixing it tightly. All doors in those places where they are adjacent to the bricks are pre-wrapped with asbestos cord or asbestos strip. They are fixed in place with wire or steel strips fixed in the seams. For a more rigid fixation, grooves are cut in the bricks under the wire.
• Particular attention should be paid to the passage of the pipe from the brick oven through the ceiling, roof or wall. At this point, the pipe must be insulated basalt wool or other heat insulators that tolerate high temperatures.

The video shows how the ash and furnace doors can be fixed, as well as the process of preparing the clay solution.

Here is a project for a sauna stove, in which a tank for heating water is adjacent to the heater and is additionally heated by heat transfer from the chimney. This oven has small size and easy to manufacture.

The capacity for the heater 530x510x500 mm in size is made of steel 8-10 mm thick, the water tank is made of a pipe with a diameter of 40 cm (capacity is about 50 liters). The support for the heater is a frame welded from the corners (the corner is taken 50x50 mm), a sliding support is made for the water tank.

Kamenka has a cover through which stones are laid and water gives in. In order for the stones to be heated to higher temperatures, the lid is closed, and if it is necessary to lower their temperature, they are opened. After installation on the frame, the heater is lined with bricks placed on edge.

Here is also a small brick stove for a bath with a closed heater and a water tank located on the side.

The ordering for this oven is simple and does not require high costs time and materials.

Ordering the stove for a bath

This oven is not very small. A continuous oven designed by Anatoly Zabolotny can heat a steam room for 4 people. It is possible to load stones into a closed heater only after the final drying of the stove.

Continuous stoves can be fired while people are in the steam room - they are designed in such a way that combustion products do not enter the room.

The main attractive feature of this furnace is the possibility of organizing ventilation / drying of the underground space. Why use a regular corrugated hose.

For the laying of this furnace, 700 pieces of oven bricks, 40 pieces of fireclay, about 30 buckets of sand, 15 buckets of clay (12 liter bucket) are needed. 2 pieces of oven doors, blower doors and cleaning doors. It also requires 2 grates and 2 valves, and a metal corner 30x30, cut into pieces of 50cm (9 pieces) and 35cm (2 pieces). You will also need a panel with one burner and a cabinet for stones.

The cabinet for stones is made of stainless steel - only it can withstand temperatures up to 800 ° C, to which stones can heat up in this furnace. To make the stove more rigid, side surfaces additional stiffening ribs are welded on.

You need to lay this oven from the base-zero row, in which the formation begins ventilation duct. Strictly follow the layout of the bricks, checking the verticality and horizontality of each row and tracking the correct angles.

The damper is installed in the 3rd row. Immediately, the formation of ash pans of two independent fireboxes begins and doors are installed on them. In the next 4th, the damper is blocked by a transversely located channel for cleaning soot. In the same row, a door is installed on it.

The closing of the blower doors takes place in the 5th. Jumpers are immediately installed for the transition to the formation of the buttocks. The thickness of the metal for jumpers is 3 mm. In the next row, the shaft is divided, for which two grates are installed. The furnace shaft is laid out with fireclay bricks using a special mortar. Under the grates, a recess is cut in the bricks in such a way that there is a gap for the thermal expansion of the grates (6-10 mm on each side). Independent chimney channels immediately begin, for which metal strips are also laid.

In the 7th row fireclay brick they are installed on a spoon (sideways), the doors of the furnaces are installed, the chimney channels do not change. Firebox doors are installed at the same time. The 8th row is similar to the previous one, we cover the doors. In the next, they are covered with metal strips, on which the floor bricks will rest.

In the 10th, the doors are closed on top with bricks, for which they are filed, if necessary, depending on the shape. After the completion of the 11th row, a slab platform is laid over one shaft, and on the other, fireclay bricks are laid only on the short sides of the furnace. After installing the stone container, there will be chimney channels.

In the 12th row, a metal box for stones is installed, one of the chimney channels is laid. The next two rows are unchanged, and only in the 15th they mount a door for cleaning soot. Further, in the 16th, two metal lintels are added above the main shaft.

In the 17th, the chimney shaft is again divided into two channels (as in the 5th), and two metal bridges are fixed above the slab, which will serve as the basis for the bricks of the next row. The next two are unchanged, and only in the 18th a chimney door is added, and in the 19th jumpers are installed on the other side of the furnace, which will serve as the basis for its final overlap and the formation of the furnace arch.

21 row is similar to 12, but there are chimney channels. The next two rows are the narrowing of the fuel shafts, and in the 24th shaft, where the stone container is installed, it is completely blocked.

This small brick oven for a bath is very simple and economical. It is suitable for small steam rooms.

The order for her is very simple. It has a relatively small weight, and, subject to a sufficient thickness of the log and compliance with fire safety measures, it can be folded without a foundation.

In fact, there are probably as many stove projects as there are baths - each owner tries to make the most of the available space, so changes and adjustments are practically necessary. If you have at least a little experience with bricks and mortars, you can easily fold a brick oven with your own hands. But if you are not confident in your abilities, then you should think about inviting an experienced stove-maker, at least as a consultant. This can save you a lot of money: refurbishing the stove and fixing the flaws often cost much more than laying the stove in a new way.

In many cases, it is easier to install a metal furnace (for example) and.

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Metal stoves for baths are profitable and convenient, but, as a rule, experienced stove-makers recommend making them from brick. Only in such steam rooms the atmosphere is comfortable, the warmth is pleasant, it is easy to breathe, and the steam, although saturated, does not burn if the brick oven for the bath is done correctly.

brick heating furnaces for summer cottages and baths radiate soft warmth. They are perfect choice for those people who visit the steam room quite often. As for design brick structures, then they can look great, as evidenced by the photo on the site.

Types of brick ovens for a bath

There are four ways to equip a brick sauna stove:

• "in white";
• "in black";
• "in gray";
• "with stove"

White ovens do not pollute the premises, but it takes a long time to warm them up - up to 12 hours, since the stones in them are heated from the overlapping metal plate. For the same reason, they retain heat for a long time.

The stove for a brick bath, which is heated "in a black way", is made without a chimney. It was these design solutions that were used by the villagers, since it is believed that in such baths the steam is of high quality, but it is necessary to wait until the fuel burns out completely.

The “gray” stoves intended for the bath are made with a chimney - they are more economical, since the room warms up quickly, but since soot is deposited on the stones in them, it is necessary to wait until the firewood burns out.

Brick is done like this: the tank and stones are placed on two cast iron slabs, not completely closed in order to quickly heat the room. The tank is covered with a brick casing on three sides to ensure a high temperature of water heating, while the container is placed directly above the firebox, and stones are placed above the chimney (read also: "").

Brick for arranging the furnace

If the cost of building a furnace for bath room limited, the most ordinary brick will suffice, and of medium quality. But it should be borne in mind that its dimensions do not always correspond to the standard, which is 25x12x65 millimeters, so the seams of the square are not always obtained up to 10 millimeters. Such discrepancies are allowed during the construction of a house, but are unacceptable when creating a stove for a bath. To solve the problem, you should slightly shorten the length of the middle brick, which makes up the side of the square, where three bricks are laid one after the other, so that the do-it-yourself brick sauna stove is laid out correctly. As a result, the parameters of the furnace will decrease and amount to 74x74 centimeters, but the width of the seams will not exceed 5 millimeters.

Do-it-yourself brick bath oven: project and scheme

A solid brick oven can be laid out with your own hands. This will require a brick sauna stove project. In addition, elementary masonry skills are needed, and up to a centimeter, a diagram with the presented order should be followed. The work is done step by step. See also: "".

Step 1. Creating the base

First of all, it is necessary to perform waterproofing reinforced concrete foundation thanks to which even in the summer heat it will remain cold. The base for the furnace is made durable. The foundation must exceed the dimensions of the unit by 10 centimeters. At the bottom, a free space is left, which has a small opening in the front, it is called the under-furnace and serves to store various inventory. It is covered from above concrete beams or brick vault with bars of wood or steel. Flooring is built on top.

To perform the work, it is necessary to have several pieces of roofing material equal in size to the area of ​​bricks laid on top of the reinforced concrete base. The first two of them will be used to separate the concrete part of the prepared foundation from the initial brick row, and the rest are laid between the furnace array and the intermediate brick rows.

Then they start cutting bricks for laying out a wall of 5 rows. Its presence will protect the lining (if it is planned to be used) indoors from fire. Used to make a solution cement-sand mixture.

In order to perform the first masonry accurately, hang the plumb line in this way: its sharp end should be located above the first row.

Step 2: Preparing Clay and Sand

At this stage, when brick ovens for a bath are being built, clay should be prepared, since only the first row is laid dry. Cement is not used in this case, since it does not tolerate sufficiently high temperatures.

It is possible to build a solid stove for a bath only using clay, which is mined at a depth of 0.5 meters. It is well cleaned of impurities and pre-soaked for several days before use. For this purpose, a special ditch is dug near the construction site.

You will also need to prepare sand for the construction of the furnace - it is cleaned of various debris and thoroughly sieved, otherwise small particles of pebbles may get into the narrow seams.

The clay is kneaded with a solid object, then water is added and mixed with a puncher with a mixer. The prepared solution should resemble thick sour cream in consistency, only after that, purified sand is added to it, slightly sprinkled with water.

The quality of the mixture is checked with a clean dry stick, it is dipped and removed:

• if a 2 mm layer remains on it, then the solution can be applied;
• with a layer thickness of less than 1 millimeter, more clay should be added;
• if the layer size is more than 3 millimeters, more sand is required.

The solution should not be prepared in advance, as it quickly loses its properties. It is better to mix it in small portions.

Step 3. Start laying the sauna stove

After the tools are prepared, they begin laying. When a brick oven is made for a bath, the order must be pre-printed. You will also need a square, pliers, an emery wheel and a scoop with a broom.

The structural solution of the furnace assumes that the first cleaning door is located in the initial row of masonry, for which its lower fasteners are embedded under the bricks. For fastening, a galvanized wire of 3 mm diameter is used - it bends better if it is burned a little. So that in the future the twisted wire does not become an obstacle when laying bricks, grooves are pre-cut into them.

For cleaning doors that exceed the thickness of the bricks, rectangular cutouts are made in them. They should be 3-5 millimeters more than the height of the protruding part of the doors. At the end of the work, the cracks are filled with clay mortar. See also: "".

Step 4 Installing the Water Tank

When a brick oven for a bath is built with your own hands, the scheme for its implementation must be fully implemented. At this stage, after fitting the bricks to the wire and laying a new row, they proceed to the installation of a water tank, if this is planned by the design decision. A high-quality container can be welded on your own by studying. The main point is correct installation tank.

Step 5. Mounting the grate

In the event that two bricks in the blower, laid on edge, do not reach top point fourth row, this means that the material manufacturers did not meet the parameters of their products. Using a grinder, two plates are cut out of a new brick so that, together with the mortar, they form flat surface under the grate. The main thing is that it does not rest against the wall of the firebox. Otherwise, the grate may expand under the influence of high temperature and slightly push the bricks apart. If suddenly it rests, an adjustment will be required.

Step 6: Fitting the Bricks in the Fifth Row

If a brick sauna stove is being built, the order should always be at hand. So, when the scheme provides for the installation of a water tank, there may be new problem. The fact is that an almost imperceptible mismatch of bricks with standard sizes can lead to the fact that two bricks that overlap smoke channel ovens at the back wall, will leave wide gaps between them. Covering them with clay does not make sense, because it will fall out anyway.

Solve this problem in the following way: these bricks are shifted towards the blower by 3 centimeters, making a minimum distance between them, and instead of the third brick, two bars are laid. Their width should be such that the gap between the wood products is invisible. But the left bar should be moved forward by 1.5 centimeters.

Having completed this work, proceed to the double winding oven door asbestos cord, like a tank, in places where it comes into contact with bricks. They do this manipulation for the purpose of reinsurance - it often happens that they start to heat the stove without pouring water into the container.

Step 7. Fixing the firebox door

To fix the furnace door, use galvanized wire, even 2 mm will do. For each hole you need to twist three pieces. Otherwise, the method of sealing and fitting is similar to the actions performed when attaching cleaning doors. Twisted 6 wires are more rigid, but ordinary pliers will help to cope with them.

Step 8. Bricklaying from the 6th to the 8th rows

At this stage, the same problem may arise as when laying the fifth row - the brick used does not correspond to standard sizes. When drawing up drawings, designers expect that quality material will be used.

Accordingly, when a brick bath oven is being built, the order is based on the fact that the bricks have standard size. An invisible marriage leads to the appearance of a gap, but it is useless to close it with clay, it is better to use bars. See also: "".

After completing the 9th row, a slab is installed on the basis that its edges will be on the bricks at a distance of 2 - 2.5 centimeters. Then proceed to the arrangement of the chimney (read also: "").

Brick oven for a bath: do-it-yourself video instruction for ordering:

Before dealing with the issue of installing stoves for a bath, we ourselves spent a lot of time studying this topic. Therefore, we know that people who have an idea about the designs of sauna stoves usually do not condescend to explain everything from the basics, and most of the texts on the Internet are completely written by those who are not at all in the subject.

Bath stove designs: common points and differences for different types

So what is a stove? This is a fire built inside a container. But combustion is an oxidation reaction of fuel, therefore, it cannot occur without oxygen. Therefore, we will call the oven the container through which, at least temporarily, with the dampers open, flowing air moves.

thrust

This movement is called "pull" and it occurs when there is inlet and outlet holes.

Of course, such a definition suffers from incompleteness, because it does not apply to electric heaters. IN They are heated by the passage of current through a material with high resistance. In this case, heat is released.

But back to furnaces, where heat is released due to a chemical reaction. The art of the stove-maker consists in skillfully varying the amount of incoming air, the amount of firewood in the bookmark, in order to achieve them uniform combustion and maximum complete combustion.

What will happen if the combustion is still ongoing, and the air is blocked? Instead of carbon dioxide, dangerous monoxide will begin to form - carbon monoxide . But why block the pipe if it is so dangerous? — The draft is blocked so as not to dry out the stove when the firewood burned out, because along with the air, heat also flies into the pipe.

So, we know about the role of air. Let's see a diagram of a simple draft furnace. What must be in it? Three things:

• air inlet (blower or firebox door);
• firebox (aka firebox);
• outlet (chimney).

The first division of stoves can be carried out according to the presence or absence of a blower: without it, they are called "deaf hearth ovens". In this case, air is supplied through open door furnaces. Here's what it looks like in cross section:

Kamenka

Now let's ask a question: what do all sauna stoves have, but absent from stoves that heat houses? Of course it is heater. The container in which the stones lie is available for all stoves in the bath, even for electric ones. The stones themselves are used as batteries- they store heat. This is necessary in order to heat in the steam room lasted longer. Their other function is creating light steam, but in this capacity they are needed only in a Russian bath.

There are two classifications of heaters according to different criteria: one takes into account contact with fire in the furnace, the second - contact with air.

If there are gaps between the firebox and the heater through which the stones are licked by flames, then this flow heater.

If the barrier is deaf, then the heater is called deaf.

When the container with stones is inside the furnace, this closed heater.

And if the stones are in sight - open.

In this regard, furnaces are classified as follows:

Let us explain: if the heater is flowing, then the poured water will spill into the furnace. Therefore, you have to wait until the firewood burns out, then only supply water. Since the combustion stops, the action of the stove is called "periodic". Respectively a permanent stove is not filled with water and firewood can burn all the time of bath procedures.

On a note! Most often, metal furnaces turn out to be permanent, and brick ones are periodic, but there are exceptions. If a deaf heater is made in a brick oven, then such a stove is called a combined one.

Material inertness

So, the fire is burning, the stones are heating up, and what happens to the steam room? If we need to heat the stones up to 300-400 degrees, then can you imagine how much the air in the steam room can heat up during this time? And so we come to the next important point: the role of material in the design of sauna stoves.

Furnaces are either brick, or metal. No other is given. The former are considered very inertial - It takes hours to heat them up, as well as to cool them down.. The latter are able to heat up in half an hour and during the same time have time to overheat the steam room. Great property for saunas!

When choosing a design, you determine for yourself how inertial its body should be. At your disposal are not only “clean” options: a purely brick, purely metal stove, but also combined. For example, to increase the inertia of a metal stove, you can either use internal lining of the firebox and heater, or with the help of external casing-sarcophagus. Moreover, the option with a casing and lining at the same time is not excluded).

Important! Answer the question, what time is optimal for you to kindle the furnace - it determines the degree of inertia of the body.

Smoke

What happens when fuel burns? Heat is released, combustion products are formed - steam, gases and solids. The latter we call soot, soot, and all together - smoke. At the time of exit from the furnace, this mixture is also heated to several hundred degrees. And if you don't put some heat-consuming obstacle, all this heat will corny fly away into the pipe to enhance the greenhouse effect on our planet.

However, once upon a time not only obstacles, but also pipes did not exist. Because it was not from wood that they were made! Therefore, the first type of stoves according to the method of removing smoke is chimneyless, "black".

In the simplest version, this pile of stones stacked over a fire. In the modern version, this is a brick hearth, which keeps the same pile of stones from spreading. But the principle is the same: he made a fire under the stones, waited for the firewood to burn out, let the smoke out into the street through a window or door - and you can bathe by pouring water on the heated stones.

Then appears smoke box- akin kitchen hood- the same separated from the oven. A similar option can still be found in the bath today.

Then appears chimney pipe. And if it is inserted into the stove without any fuss (it doesn’t matter in the firebox or heater), then such a stove will be called once-through. Heat here is not taken from the furnace gases, so it has the lowest efficiency.

But heat is a pity, so the idea of ​​the inventors went this way: what if we increase the path that smoke passes inside the furnace? This is how the system came into being. smoke circulation, where the smoke runs with obstacles inside the channels that lead it up and down, or horizontally to the right and left. The system is excellent for heat extraction, but with its drawbacks - channels, especially horizontal ones, should be cleaned regularly otherwise there will be no traction.

An alternative to the smoke circulation system has become bell stove. There are no channels in it, it practically does not depend on traction. Hot furnace gases, leaving the firebox, find themselves under a hood, where they actively share heat with the furnace mass. New portions of hot furnace gases rise, displacing the cooled ones down and into the chimney.

but everything said about the chimney primarily refers to brick stoves. You rarely see a metal stove with smoke circulation. Usually they are primitive - direct-flow, except that they have flame dividers. Yes, and their dimensions are much smaller than those of brick ones, you can’t walk around with moves there, and there is no heat-intensive material - where to take the heat?

The stove ends with a chimney. Remains optional - tank or heat exchanger, which can also be indicated on the sauna stove diagram. But it is better to talk about this when analyzing specific structures, to which, in fact, we are moving on.

Scheme of a brick sauna stove

From what has been said above, it already follows that circuit diagrams several brick ovens:

• straight-through;
• with smoke circulation;
• bell-shaped.

However, each allows for many implementation options. In other words, the above diagrams clearly demonstrate the characteristic, but do not exhaust the possible.

Sauna oven device: direct-flow

Usually, in a brick oven, the implementation of a direct-flow design is accompanied by a closed flow-through heater. In this case, there is no reason to fear that the furnace gases will not have time to cool sufficiently before leaving - their passage through the mass of the stone filling effectively removes heat.

By the way, the diagram shows that two types of bricks are used in the design of the sauna stove: red refractory and fireclay They are shown in red and yellow. Pay attention to the fact that between them there is a gap - this is an essential point.

Designs of sauna stoves with smoke circulation

You already know the purpose of the smoke circulation, but the difficulties associated with it are not yet known. In the oven, in general, everything is built on compromises. AND this system- not an exception. Let's begin with horizontal ducts are much better than vertical ducts both in terms of heat distribution and oven durability- there is no big temperature difference along the vertical, the furnace does not crack. But with this arrangement, there is another problem: the overgrowth of the walls with soot. Vertical ones overgrow more slowly, but here you need to clean it once a week, otherwise the thrust decreases and the efficiency drops. That's why vertical channels proved to be preferable.

The number of revolutions can vary from 1 to 12, but practice has shown that the optimal number of revolutions does not exceed 4. As for their cross section, it should not be too small and too large. In the first case, there are more hooks for soot, in the second - inefficient heat intake.

On a note! The channels from the inside should be as smooth as possible, they are specially cleaned for this from the remnants of the solution. When laying, the most even geometry should face inward. The reason is that any roughness is a hook for soot.

The device of the furnace in the bath: bell-type

The design of the sauna stove may not contain channels. We have already shown you the device of the simplest bell-type furnace. Now a little more.

Its principle is simple: you need to build something like an inverted glass above the firebox, and make an exit to the chimney near its lower edge. It's a fairly clean design that suffers little from soot. The gases move as they want - the heated ones rise to the bottom of the glass, transferring heat to it, while they cool and tend to go down, they are replaced by new portions from the furnace.

Important! Such an oven is very easy to melt even after a long break in work.

However, it also has disadvantages:

• warms up well top part stoves, and for a good warming up of the steam room, it is necessary that the heat comes from below. It's being treated two hood system.
• for the correct furnace, a skill is needed - in an overheated furnace, gases stop flowing under the hood, it is easier for them to immediately slip into the pipe. being treated fine adjustment of the air entering the furnace.

Output! Without experience, you can negate all the advantages of a bell-type stove.

With tank or coil

Metal heater from a pipe

On our website you can find, which tells how to make such a heater. Here we will only present the schemes themselves with some comments.

So, the choice of the owner has two options for a stove from a pipe:

• vertical;
• horizontal.

Usually take a pipe half a meter in diameter. The figure shows that the pipe can be lined from the inside(or you can leave it as is, then it will burn out faster). in yellow chamotte is shown along the walls.

Also, the owner is free to choose a stove with a deaf hearth or blower. The difference between them was discussed above. But pay attention to the oven door with a blind hearth- in order not to keep it open, holes are drilled in it, which provide air flow if the pipe is not blocked at the top with a gate valve. If the stove is slightly lengthened due to the blower, then the draft will be regulated by opening blower door. Then the holes become redundant.

The water tank is shown in both pictures, but is actually optional. Some make it lower by welding a metal box with a lid on the side of the furnace - this for ease of pouring in the absence of cold water supply in the bath.

The horizontal stove has a completely different structure - it turns out a heater open. This is a welded stone basket - with such a stove you can’t get good steam.

Yes, and in the picture we depicted the grate (under the flame) recognizable, but in reality its grate perpendicular to the direction you see here.

The water tank is welded to back wall stoves.

Useful video

Not just diagrams, but also a description of the advantages and disadvantages of a vertical and horizontal design (not necessarily from a pipe). Plus interesting life hacks.

Even more schemes, even more explanations about them. However, the main concern of the author of the video is that you get a stove for a real Russian bath. So sauna lovers can not watch it).

We hope that you still received some kind of holistic understanding of what a sauna stove is. The rest can only be learned through practice and experiment. Good luck to you!

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