Affordable technology for laying parquet boards. Laying a parquet board: the correct organization and procedure for performing work Parquet board how to lay technology

Parquet board is a traditional material used for flooring. It has many advantages: reliability, durability, noble appearance. But many novice masters do not undertake to mount this type of coating on their own. They just don't know how to lay parquet board. Because there is an opinion that for this you need to have certain knowledge and skills.

The structure of the parquet board.

In fact, this work is not much different from the installation of other floor coverings. If you correctly plan the upcoming work, know the secrets and rules of laying, then even an inexperienced person will cope with the task. All you need is a little effort and minimal woodworking experience.

Preparatory stage of work

Many experts disagree on how to lay a parquet board. The most controversial issue is the use of a substrate under the coating. At the moment, there are 4 most common ways to form parquet:

Options for laying parquet boards.

1. Flooring by the so-called "floating" method.
2. Mounting on the base (logs).
3. Laying the board on a plywood base.
4. Installation on a rough wooden floor.

Thus, there are no clear rules on how to lay a parquet board. You can mount the cover on any surface. The main thing is that it be even and there are no significant height differences on it. The permissible deviation should not exceed 2 mm per 1 linear meter. Therefore, if your wooden floor meets these requirements, then the parquet board can be laid directly on it.

At the same time, it should be taken into account that the parquet is laid on a solid base, having previously lined the mounting surface with a soft substrate. It will also help to comment on some of the irregularities of the base. If the installation takes place on an initially soft coating, such as linoleum, then there is no need for such a substrate.

Technology of parquet laying.

But if the floor in the room is uneven and old, then it is necessary to use sufficiently thick plywood or chipboard. In this case, you can not dismantle the old wooden coating. The plates will also serve as an additional fastening frame. This method will help strengthen the entire floor structure.

Masters do not recommend mounting a parquet board on a concrete screed, even if it is thoroughly dried. As a rule, the flooring laid on the rough base deforms over time and “leads” it. In addition, concrete easily condenses moisture on its surface, and the parquet board "does not like" it.

The surface of the floor must be cleaned of dust and dirt. And this must be done very carefully. Only then can you get a perfectly smooth and reliable parquet. And first, the dust is collected using a sufficiently powerful vacuum cleaner, then wet cleaning is carried out. And after the surface is completely dry, the floor is primed. It is necessary to prime the base at least 2 times, allowing each previous layer to dry completely.

Tools needed for styling

Whatever installation method you choose, you will definitely need the following tools:

Laying parquet on the subfloor.

• a special finishing bar (it can be replaced with a pruning of softwood timber);
• finishing crutch (you can buy it in specialized stores or make it yourself);
• heavy wooden mallet;
• spacers (small wooden wedges with a sting thickness of 0.5-1 cm);
• electric jigsaw or hacksaw for working with wood;
• a hammer.

Before laying the parquet board, do not forget to prepare measuring tools. You will need a building level, a square and a centimeter tape measure (with millimeter divisions). Without this inventory, you will not be able to properly form the cover.

Foamed polyethylene can be used as a substrate. Such a material with one foil side will serve not only as a soundproofing, but also as an insulating coating. The cork substrate has higher rates, but it is much more expensive. If you are going to lay a parquet board on a concrete base, then you also need to take care of the vapor barrier. This will increase the reliability of the flooring and allow it to last much longer.

Do not forget that the mounted parquet board must be puttied and varnished. Accordingly, you will need materials for this type of work.

If you properly lay a parquet board, then it will serve you for decades. But for this you need to know the little tricks of experienced craftsmen:

Stages of laying parquet.

1. Be sure to store the purchased board in the room where you are going to use it. It should rest at room temperature. Then it "will not lead" during operation.
2. Purchase only quality material. A parquet board is not something that you can save on during repairs. As a rule, poor quality parquet becomes unusable very quickly. And competent installation will not be able to correct this shortcoming.
3. Lay the parquet board parallel to the window. Then the natural light in the room will make the seams almost invisible.
4. The junction of floor coverings of different types can be closed with a decorative threshold. It comes in tone-on-tone with the floorboard or in a contrasting color.
5. If you are going to change the flooring in different areas of the house and plan to join the parquet board with floor tiles, then it is wiser to lay the parquet first, and then take on the finishing of the kitchen or corridor. A layer of tile adhesive is much easier to control. And this will give you the opportunity to align both coatings in height.

If you follow these simple rules, then as a result you will get a high-quality, durable and reliable coating.

Laying parquet board

Scheme of parquet connection.

Installation of a parquet board is usually carried out by a floating method. That is, the dies are connected by a tenon-groove method. This allows the floor to change its area depending on the temperature and humidity in the room. In addition, if necessary, you can always replace the section of the coating that has become unusable.

Calculate how many whole boards you will need. Determine the size of the trimmings that will have to be added to the laid out row. Laying is wiser to start with them. Some of these pieces will be hidden under the plinth, so they will not spoil the appearance of the coating.

There must be a gap between the wall and the floor covering, 1.5-3 cm wide.

It is necessary so that the parquet board can expand.

Installation starts from the wall. In order to keep the gap constant, you need to use wooden wedges. Next to them, according to preliminary markings, the first board is put up. Each subsequent die is joined next to the previous one, knocking them together with a plank and a hammer.

The next row must be laid so that the seams are in a run. That is, they must move relative to each other. Boards can be simply planted or glued in the grooves. This will help form a much more reliable coating. After the floor covering is fully formed, the gaps near the wall must be covered with a floor plinth.

Finishing the floor

In modern stores, parquet boards are sold with and without varnish. If you purchased option 2, then after installing the coating it must be sanded and cycled. In this way, you will remove the top layer of wood along with dirt and damage that may have occurred during transportation and storage.

This work requires specialized equipment, which not only reduces the time required for surface treatment, but also regulates the thickness of the layer to be removed. To perform this task, you can attract specialists or rent the necessary equipment. In this case, it is more reasonable to use a belt-type grinder. The result of her work is considered optimal.

The coating must be puttied, removing small cracks and chips. To do this, use specialized mixtures. Experts advise adding to them the dust formed during grinding.

Even the most high-quality and beautiful material can be spoiled by illiterate editing - this is the bitter truth of life. Although paying almost the same price as for a purchase, not everyone strives for a construction team: is laying a parquet board really that difficult? Not at all - the main thing is to know the important nuances and do everything step by step. And how exactly - now we'll figure it out.

If you still have questions after watching, read on.

Laying technology: step by step

Let's say right away: laying a parquet board is not laying a parquet or laying a laminate. It really has its own subtleties and nuances.

Stage I. We acquire high-quality material

Today, more than a hundred types of wood are used for the manufacture of parquet boards, and the initial quality is completely different. Therefore, we will give you valuable advice: purchase a parquet board only from those companies that themselves are engaged in such repair work. They will not order material from manufacturers, which then does not fit together and creates a lot of problems. Such is the subtlety. As for the type of parquet board, three-layer is the most popular today. From the name, you already guessed that it really has three layers: the top, also called the front, middle and bottom:

• The top working layer has a thickness of 1 mm to 6 mm (the thicker one will always withstand more polishing than the thinner one). This layer must be coated with varnish or special oil.
• The middle one usually consists of short sheets of softwood, or less often - of special moisture-resistant plywood. It is in the middle layer that all the connecting elements for bonding parquet boards are usually located.
• The bottom layer is already made of pine or spruce plywood 2 mm thick. The main task of the bottom layer is to prevent the parquet board from bending or deforming.

If you are going to lay the parquet board so that it resembles a massive one, then take the material with a solid front layer. The planks of such a parquet board can be glued in the form of "herringbones", "wickerwork", "squares" or "deck". But the most durable is considered to be the lock connection at the Swedish parquet board - the company Khars. The manufacturer claims that such a connection can withstand up to one and a half tons to break.

Stage II. Preparing the base for laying

The most important thing in this matter is to properly prepare the base for the board. So, according to unverified data, up to 90% of subsequent problems with the appearance of the laid parquet are caused by the quality of the subfloor, and not by the marriage of the material itself. So, what is still acceptable:

• 1-3 mm difference per linear meter
• humidity up to 2-3%. To check this value, use a modern moisture meter.

If the base is clearly not even and even has bulges, use special level masses (only based on dry mixes). Carefully inspect the old screed and work on loose areas, defects and dirt. If the humidity value turned out to be more than the permissible value, then overlap the vapor barrier film on the floor, then sealing the joints with construction tape, or apply a special primer.

Experts recommend laying parquet boards at a humidity of 40-60% and a temperature of 20-25°C. It should be noted that the parquet board behaves more stably than solid wood: it reacts less to changes in temperature and humidity, and is more resistant to static and dynamic loads.

Stage III. We put a special substrate

To lay a parquet board in this way, you definitely need a substrate that will separate the unprotected board from the base. It will immediately perform several important functions:

• Evens out small irregularities and defects in the base.
• Provides additional waterproofing.
• It will make the floor of the parquet board even warmer.
• It will become a useful shock-absorbing layer, valuable while walking.

And finally, the underlay performs another valuable function, which is rarely mentioned: it does not allow the parquet board to crawl over the base in case of temperature changes. After all, screed or gypsum has its own expansion temperature, and it differs significantly from the same parameter for the coating. This is the danger of the absence of a substrate on the screed: literally a year after such movements invisible to the eye, the accumulated cement or gypsum dust begins to seep through the cracks.

As a substrate, you can use foamed polyethylene, extruded polystyrene foam, sheet cork or six-felt cardboard. This is from materials known for a long time. But today professional ones are already gaining popularity. Here is a laying master class on such a basis:

The parquet board is also often laid on. After all, this natural and environmentally friendly material still has excellent noise protection. And the technology of gluing such a substrate is extremely simple - as with wallpaper: polyurethane glue is applied to a clean, dust-free surface and the cork is rolled with a roller. After that, you can immediately lay the boards. However, during such work, do not overdo it with glue - otherwise the cork will warp and swell with bubbles.

Stage IV. Getting ready to install

When laying a parquet board on an old wooden floor, be sure to measure its moisture content - this material is hygroscopic. You can direct parquet boards as you like, but more often they are oriented along the length of the room for the sake of organicity of the entire interior design. Although the designers themselves often use the texture of the floor to visually expand or lengthen the space. If the room is perfectly square - lay in the direction of the light. You can even diagonally - however, there will be a lot of waste later.

Tip: if you find specimens with defects or non-uniform coloring in a box with a parquet board, leave them for trimming.

Stage V. Learning to connect boards

Different manufacturers produce their own parquet board and prefer a certain type of fastening:

1. Paste method;
2. Castle connection, also called "click";
3. With fixing brackets or tightening straps.

The most convenient, of course, is the lock connection. In this case, the grooves and plug-in combs are joined without any other means - you just need to insert the comb of the board at an angle into the groove of the other, and smoothly lower the first board to a horizontal position. After that, a couple of light blows are enough, and that's it.

Here are the main advantages of this method:

• Fast laying;
• No need for additional equipment or facilities;
• Wood has room for thermal expansion.

If at some point in the room you cannot lift the board for docking, then just use a hammer with a bar. Yes, this requires a lot of precision and accuracy. Tip: when joining the coating with the door frame, start laying with a board wound under the jamb.

The insertion method, of course, loses to the previous one: with such laying, you constantly have to use a bar and a hammer, and replacing damaged boards in the future will take a lot of time. But near heating systems and door frames, it is easier to lay such boards, and grooves and plug-in combs are less likely to be defective.

But laying parquet boards with staples or a belt fastening system is more used for parquet boards that have a thickness of 15 to 21 mm. At the same time, the boards themselves still need to be glued, and in the future it will be difficult to disassemble the floor.

Stage VI. Laying parquet board

So, today parquet boards are laid mainly in two ways: adhesive and floating. Adhesive Adhesive method involves fixing the boards to the base by gluing. So they put it on a cement-sand or concrete floor, on a gypsum screed and level-mass. If you choose this method, be sure to pay attention to the recommendation of the board manufacturer himself - what requirements he puts forward. All this can be found in the attached instructions. Here's how to lay a parquet board with an adhesive method:

• Step 1. We prepare the base: we check for evenness, completely remove dust and process it with a synthetic primer (water is undesirable). In total, it should take you a little more than a kilogram per square meter (it all depends on the screed and the quality of the primer itself).
• Step 2. Lay out the parquet boards from the first two boxes in the order in which you will mount them. Apply glue.
• Step 3. Putting the first board. It must be longer than its width. We leave an expansion gap of 6-12 mm between the wall and the floor.
• Step 4. We knock the second board to the first - through a special bar. Boards need to be glued within ten minutes.
• Step 5. When you cut the last board, immediately use the rest of it to start the next row.
• Step 6. Insert small wedges or spacers into the expansion gap between the wall and the floor (you can see them in the photo).
• Step 7. After you glue a few rows, carefully check if there are any gaps.
• Step 8. When all work is completed, close the seams with acrylic sealant or cork chips. Alternatively, you can also put a special metal threshold.

Tip: for convenience, use a square - only with it you can draw really straight lines.

The so-called "floating" method of laying parquet boards has many advantages. Most importantly, there are important gaps for ventilation and an imperceptible change in the shape of the board when the temperature changes. As evidence: in winter, with good heating, you can notice small gaps between the boards - and in summer they are not visible. Moreover, the wider the board itself, the more noticeable. These are important processes! And, if you chose a parquet board with a high-quality lock, then it will last much longer than a regular glued one. You can see the process in more detail in this photo-instruction:

The "floating" floor from the parquet board is laid in two ways: using the same glue and "castle". In the first method, the boards are not glued to the base, but to each other, and in the second, they are connected without glue. Lock connections also have subspecies: with “turn and click” or with “hit and click”. Say, the speed of such assembly is really impressive - just a couple of hours.

You can put everything on your own:

• Step 1. Start from the left corner of the room with the so-called "latch side" to the wall.
• Step 2. Take the board with both hands, and, holding it at an angle, lay it on the edge of the board of the first row. The edge board that will adhere to the walls should not have grooves - cut them off with a planer.
• Step 3. Start the second row with the rest of the first row. But, if it turned out to be less than 30 cm, cut the new board in half.
• Step 4. When you lay the parquet board at the threshold, check all the time whether the doors open as easily as before.

Just trim the bottom if needed. In addition, there should always be at least a centimeter of distance between the door threshold and the wall. Another important thing - to tightly connect the boards to each other, use a wooden or rubber hammer, only lightly tapping it. Do not take the usual one - damage the floor.

On sufficiently large areas, this laying method is not very suitable - the integrity of the entire coating is violated. The floor will creak and even warp. Therefore, in spacious rooms and halls, parquet boards can only be glued. That's all!

Difficult laying - warm floor and logs

If you are going to lay a parquet board on a warm floor, first of all find a material on sale that would suit the future temperature regime. After all, not all breeds are sufficiently resistant to deformation, especially maple and beech. It is better to give preference to oak or walnut. But keep in mind that the maximum temperature for which any parquet board is designed is 26 ° C. And in order to understand whether the parquet board you have chosen is generally suitable for underfloor heating, look for a special icon “suitable for underfloor heating” and instructions for such installation on its packaging.

All this can help you find and consider a seller or sales manager. If there is nothing of the kind on the material, do not take my word for it. If it is possible to choose, then for such a coating it is better than electric - heating occurs evenly, and the wood expands quieter. True, the floor level will have to be raised high.

If you still decide to lay on, the ease and speed of installation will delight you. You will place the cable on a heat-insulating material (preferably foil-coated), and you can immediately fix a parquet board on top. Convenient to place under the floorboard is also popular: minimal thickness, perfectly even coverage and easy installation. But not many like its radiation. In any case, it is possible to lay a parquet board on such a base only in a “floating” way - after all, the wood will slightly change its parameters from heat. Below is a picture of the installation process.

If you are laying the parquet board on beams or logs, make sure that they are dry and as strong as possible. Miss this moment - over time, the floor will creak unpleasantly, and even deform. It is also important that there is good ventilation under the lags and that water vapor does not accumulate. In general, these are all difficulties. The best way to lay parquet boards on logs is this:

• Step 1. We prepare logs, check for moisture and integrity.
• Step 2. We lay a layer of durable plywood.
• Step 3. We put the parquet board: with glue or on a cork, which will help to slightly remove the static load on the logs themselves (squeak prevention).

Less commonly, but they also practice this method: the parquet board is attached directly to the joists themselves with the help of staples or nails. Then the logs should go in increments of 60 cm, and take the parquet board itself thick enough.

And finally, we will tell you about a newer technology for preparing the base for laying the board - this is. Minimum time and cost: special logs on plastic bases are simply used, which not only slightly raise the floor, but also allow you to carry out the necessary communications under it. Thermal insulation is obtained, of course, much better than a conventional concrete base. Feel free to experiment!

The rich and respectable appearance of parquet attracts the attention of buyers. With the help of a parquet board, you can create a unique geometric pattern that impresses visitors with its exclusivity.

Different ways of laying: herringbone, diagonal, in a run-up make the coating original and original. The finishing material is not only beautiful, but also reliable and wear-resistant. It can last for many years without spoiling its aesthetic appearance, without losing strength.

Previously, the flooring of this flooring was one of the most difficult processes in the arrangement of an apartment. With the advent of massive parquet boards, the ease of installation allows you to do the work yourself in a short time with your own hands. Laying a parquet board is a description of the technology and the video topic of our article. We will share with you the experience of how to properly lay the finishing material, and the video clips of our work will introduce you to step-by-step instructions for laying a parquet board with your own hands.

Types of parquet board

The parquet board is massive and multi-layered.

Which parquet board to choose for laying

• pencil;
• square;
• PVA glue;
• wedges;
• roulette;
• a hammer;
• wood cutter.

We start the floating laying of the parquet board from the long wall and lay it from left to right, leaving a distance of 1.5 cm between the wall and the board, there should also be a gap between the floorboards, which we make by inserting wedges between them.

When laying the boards, we connect them along the end, and then along the entire length, tapping on it with a hammer or a wooden block in order to firmly connect them together. After laying the wedges are removed.

Laying parquet boards diagonally made in several ways: from the corner from the window to the door, from the center of the room to the left, laying the cord in advance from one corner of the room to another.

We cut off a 45 degree angle from 2 sides of the parquet floor. Apply to the corner of the room, suitable or not. The rest will be a blank for cutting the lamellas. Mark and saw off the next floorboard on the left. Let's insert it into the previous one. Next, go to the right, inserting them one by one. When we approach the right wall, with the help of the workpiece we cut off the right corner. We insert another parquet with a cut right corner.

When laying herringbone parquet board you need to stretch the cord through the middle of the room to set the direction of the Christmas tree. First, lay the first two herringbone parquets at a 45 degree angle to the wall, perpendicular to each other. Put a weight on it. Then we continue to lay the Christmas tree by inserting the spikes into the grooves. Try not to move the Christmas tree during the laying process. As soon as the parquet board is laid in a herringbone pattern, let it mature for 3-4 days, and then proceed to scraping.

The top layer should be sanded 5 times, maybe less. It depends on the type of parquet. The final stage of the cycle is covering the parquet surface with 5-8 layers of varnish. It is applied with a special roller.

The cost of laying a parquet board depends on the range of services provided by professional craftsmen. It includes the preparation of the base, the elimination of creaking, sanding, polishing the surface of the parquet, fixing the baseboards, varnishing the finishing base.

The price per square meter will also depend on the complexity of laying the lamella, its toning. Basically, the price of laying parquet boards will be from 250-350 rubles per square meter, not counting scraping (175 rubles per square meter), toning-160. Installation of a plinth-89 rubles per meter, installation of plywood-160.

Laying a parquet board, a description of the technology and a video will help you make a floor covering with your own hands so that it will serve you for a long time.

When choosing a multi-layer wood flooring, buyers often pay attention to its service life. At the same time, all manufacturers, without exception, indicate that the finishing material will really last this period only if the rules for laying parquet boards are followed.

The developers of such well-known factories as Chers, Barlinek, Tarket and others are trying to improve their product, working in many respects not only on the appearance, but also on the installation system. To significantly speed up and facilitate the installation process, new lock kits are being developed. Today we can distinguish the following types:

1. Classic tongue-and-groove or Lock.
2. Click hitch - connection of planks at an angle of 10-30 °, followed by pressing to fasten the lamellas together.
3. 5G system – volumetric fixation. Its names and basic characteristics may vary, but in general the principle is the same - an additional insert or “tongue” made of dense PVC or aluminum is built into the end lock. This component gives the hitch rigidity and strength, prevents seasonal divergence of the bars, and increases the service life of the coating.

The type of locking system depends on how to properly lay the parquet board. Each package of high-quality flooring material always contains detailed installation instructions that answer all the questions of a novice or experienced craftsman.

Let us dwell on the methods of assembling a multilayer wooden coating. Includes:

1. "Floating" (independent). The floor is assembled exclusively on its own locks, without bonding to the base. This is the best option if you plan to lay the parquet board with your own hands.
2. Glue. One-component elastic polymer-based compounds (polyurethane, MS and others) are used. The adhesive is applied to any type of screed, including cement and dry prefabricated chipboard, OSB, plywood, etc.
3. On fastener. It is used for rigid fixation of each plank to the base. In this case, special “parquet” (finishing) hardware, air studs (complete with an air gun) or classic dowel-nails are needed.

The scheme of laying the parquet board is standard - with an offset of 1/3. That is, each subsequent row is shifted relative to the previous one by a third of the length of the bar. This will allow you to form a strong, reliable and durable circular “strapping” of all lamellas.

How to lay a parquet board: starting with the basics

The quality of installation of parquet flooring directly depends on how carefully the base is prepared. Criteria:

• Floors formed on the ground;
• Logs, if under the base there are too damp or warm rooms (boiler room, boiler room, laundry room, basement, etc.);
• Systems of water, soft electric or infrared heating;
• Aerated concrete beams.

Features of laying parquet boards are not limited to this list. It is necessary to take into account that:

Advice! Remember that beech or maple floors are subject to active deformation, so they should not be placed on the "warm floor" system.

You will need the following materials and tools for laying parquet boards:

Do-it-yourself parquet board laying: step by step instructions

We describe the installation process in stages.

Foundation preparation

First of all, all old coatings are completely removed without exception. If, according to the results of measurements, floor leveling is required, then for mineral bases you can use:

• Self-levelling self-leveling floors on a cement-gypsum or gypsum basis;
• Dry prefabricated screed from sheet materials (plywood, chipboard and others).

The finished base is checked for evenness with a control rail more than 2 m long, with a hygrometer for humidity. If the base defects are small, then they are filled with quick-drying repair compounds or a cement-sand mixture.

The screed must be primed before work:

• Adhesive compounds, if gluing a parquet board is supposed;
• Strengthening compositions, if the coating is laid in a "floating" way.

For a wooden base, the scheme of work is somewhat different. Irregularities (differences, "humps") should be cut off or eliminated with a parquet grinder. Pits, chips must be leveled with elastic putties, and if there are squeaks, “pull” the subfloor to the base with self-tapping screws or nails. In case of multiple defects, it is better to form a new prefabricated screed from chipboard or plywood sheets with a thickness of 16 mm or more. Top is treated with a fungicidal primer.

Preparation for work

After the end of the "wet" work on the prepared surface under the parquet board, a waterproofing and substrate material is laid. That is, neatly, without creases, a film is spread on the floor with an overlap of 15-25 cm, fixed with adhesive tape. Then the sheet or roll substrate is already laid end-to-end. With adhesive mounting, this step is skipped.

Since the parquet board must "acclimatize", the packaged material must be kept indoors for 24 to 36 hours. Experts recommend warming up the floor heating system for 2 weeks before starting installation work, then turn it off 3-4 hours before laying. This will allow you to create the right climate in the premises, to avoid thermal damage to the finish.

Advice! Wood is a natural product, therefore variations in shade and texture are possible. This should not be frightened, it is better to turn it to your advantage - open several packages in advance, lay out the lamellas on the base and form a pattern that is beautiful in your opinion.

The next step is to carefully measure the floor and plan the work. To lay the parquet board as evenly as possible, draw a laying diagram to scale on a piece of paper. The width of the last row should not be less than 5 cm. In this case, a proportional displacement of the first one is necessary.

Floor covering installation

Laying in a "floating" way starts from the longest wall from left to right. Expansion wedges are placed around the perimeter. Some experts recommend doing this after assembling the first three rows: the finished coating is shifted with a bracket and spacers are inserted into the resulting gaps.

The assembly itself begins with the fact that the protruding part of the lock is cut off at the planks of the first row, then the first one is installed in the corner and the installation begins along the end edge. The end plate can be trimmed if necessary. The next row is formed from the rest of the lamella of the previous one. For the parquet board of the classic Click-lock, first the end couplers are connected, then the joining is done along the length with the obligatory knocking out with an impact block.

Note that it is much more convenient to work with Lock and 5G connections. They can be joined as needed both longitudinally and across, which is shown in the video below.

For some types of three-dimensional lock, it is not necessary to additionally adjust the plastic insert. It is enough to click the plates correctly.

The last row of boards must be carefully sized (cut), then assembled by end locks and inserted into the gap between the wall and the outer row. The laid parquet must be pressed with a metal bracket or a wringer.

If the edge of the bar rests against a pipe or other similar obstacle, then the cut line is marked with a pencil, a piece is sawn off, a hole is drilled with a compensation margin of at least 10-16 mm. The lamella is put in place, an adhesive composition is applied to the cut and the cut element is glued.

After the assembly is completed, the wedges must be removed, the floor heating system must be turned on, gradually raising the temperature, the decorative plinth and thresholds in the doors must be mounted. The formation of gaps in the openings between rooms is not a whim, but a requirement of manufacturers.

When installing a parquet board with an adhesive method, the procedure will be slightly different:

1. Apply the adhesive to the prepared substrate and spread evenly with a notched trowel.
2. At the boards of the first row, cut the edge.
3. Assemble the coating in the standard manner, knocking it down with a bar and loading it with a load for better adhesion or fixing it with hardware that is “driven” into the lock groove at an angle of 45 °. In the same way, the parquet is fastened to the base with nails or air gun studs without an adhesive compound.

After completing all the work, many manufacturers recommend rinsing the floor with special products for parquet and parquet boards so that the wax contained in them securely seals all joints.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below a detailed description of the work that needs to be done and you will receive offers with prices from construction teams and firms by e-mail. You can see reviews of each of them and photos with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

Parquet is the choice of those who want to show their good taste, status and wealth. It has many advantages: environmental friendliness, quality, durability and decent appearance. Also, the process of laying a parquet board will not be difficult if you follow all the recommendations and rules.

Material types

Before you buy flooring, you need to find out what types of parquet exist today.

• 1-strip board It is made of a solid array and does not have big differences with a massive board. Its cost is much higher than other types of coatings. A single-strip board is used, mainly for rooms with a large area.

• Also suitable for such premises two-strip board because it is wider. It consists of two planks. They can be integral or consist of separate parts - modules.
• For spacious rooms, it is of great relevance board three-strip. It consists of several narrow planks, which are made of various types of wood.

• Four-strip boards are also made from different breeds. They are the narrowest. Their cost is very low. This coverage has many disadvantages. Such a coating is poorly restored and polished, since it has a thin layer of wood, is highly susceptible to moisture and contains harmful substances.
• Massive parquet board larch is one of the most sustainable materials. Differs in durability, beauty and resistance to water. Coniferous breed is very demanded.

Technology features

In order to lay the parquet board yourself, it will be enough to follow the correct laying technology in order to avoid mistakes.

Before carefully prepare and adhere to a certain technology. First, pay attention to the surface of the floor. It should be smooth, strong, without damage and cracks. If present, these deficiencies must be corrected.

Since the parquet board is not suitable for rooms with high humidity, it is not recommended to lay it in a toilet or bathroom. Also, the temperature in the room should not be lower than 19 degrees.

First you need to decide on the flooring. It can be various substrates, heaters. Another feature in laying this coating is that it must be laid in the direction from the wall so that the shadow does not fall on the joints.

Mounting methods

There are many methods for installing a parquet board with your own hands.

The parquet board can be laid using the “floating floor” method. With the help of this technology, the dies are fastened to each other in a locking way along the joints, and are not attached to the base. This technology is suitable for laying laminated parquet. Glue-free connection is performed by cutting specially designed fasteners - grooves and locks, which are easily and quickly connected to each other.

The main advantage of this method is that over time, strength is not violated. Mounts are resistant to any changes in temperature and humidity in the house and heavy loads such as heavy furniture. When using the glueless method of joining boards, it’s hard to make a mistake, so if you are laying a parquet board for the first time, you don’t have to worry much about it.

After you process the varnish coating, the joints will not stand out much, the boards will lie in a single sheet, even if you laid it opposite the light source.

This type of connection allows the dismantling of parquet boards without taking into account the direction in which they were laid, if they are damaged or deteriorated.

The glueless method is, of course, the most technologically advanced. However, adhesive laying is important when the rigidity of the base is required, as well as when the room is large, since the parquet boards are completely glued to the surface of the base.

Glue is used special, designed for gluing parquet boards.

It is not recommended to use a water-based adhesive, as such a coating can be deformed. The lower grooves of the parquet board are glued and connected to each other. For more reliable gluing, the adhesive can be applied in two layers.

There are also longitudinal and diagonal laying methods. These types of installation differ in that they begin to be laid in a longitudinal way from the wall opposite the entrance, and in a diagonal way they are laid from one corner. The diagonal way looks decent, but you will have a lot of extra trimming, the work will be more difficult and not economical.

Another way to lay parquet boards is deck. This technology is relatively simple: one board is laid next to another board.

Laying along the direction of the light is the most comfortable method of all, as long seams do not cast shadows and the surface looks completely even and solid. But it is in demand only for those rooms where the windows face one side. If light penetrates from all sides, then such an effect of integrity will not work.

Installation across the direction of light is suitable when it is necessary to make the room visually more spacious. This method is suitable for a corridor or a narrow hallway.

With straight laying, the boards are laid parallel to the wall. This method is the most economical, as it leaves very little extra cut boards.

When laying diagonally, the boards lie diagonally. It takes a small amount of boards to trim. The method is perfect for wide rooms, where a special coating will attract attention. But do not lay the parquet board diagonally if you plan to furnish the room.

It is very easy and convenient to prick the floor with one board, as it takes less time to work. The boards are first fastened along short seams, and then the whole strip is laid on the base. It is worth noting that there should be a gap between the parquet board and the wall, since the tree tends to expand and contract depending on the temperature in the room.

If the coating is designed for a long period of use, it is better to cover it with a second layer of varnish. The joint of the boards filled with this is protected from water ingress during wet cleaning. In this way, you can extend the life of the coating.

Oddly enough, but the parquet board can also be mounted on the ceiling. It is necessary to start from the corner that is opposite the door near the windows. You can lay the parquet board on the ceiling parallel to the light that falls from the windows. An important condition for laying the coating is leaving a small gap of a few millimeters between the wall and the parquet board.

Foundation preparation

Before laying the parquet board, you need to make sure that the base is solid, even and dry. These qualities will be inherent in a concrete screed and adjustable wood floors. For rooms that do not have high ceilings, a screed is suitable. And under the floors of wood, you can lay the necessary communications.

An uneven floor surface with large differences will creak strongly and can deform the parquet covering. That is why surface leveling is so important. You can use the hydraulic level to monitor bumps and height transitions. Also, the screed can be made using special self-leveling mixtures. But in order for such a base to dry completely, it will take two or three weeks. Moisture-resistant plywood flooring also has its advantages. Aligning such a base is much easier to perform.

If unevenness is pronounced on the concrete floor, then it would be reasonable to level it with the help of a self-leveling floor and self-leveling mixtures.

First, the surface is primed and poured, and then special devices are used to roll out this mixture. Such a floor is not afraid of moisture and it will never leak, and you can also achieve a perfectly flat surface.

Concrete

If you decide to lay the flooring on a concrete base, then you should check it for cracks, large drops, pits and depressions. Such a surface can be poured with a special mixture and allowed to harden, leaving for several days. But if the concrete is in very poor condition, then you should completely get rid of the old concrete screed and pour a new surface. And only when it is completely dry, it will be possible to lay the parquet board.

Wooden

In order to prepare a wooden floor for laying a parquet board, it is necessary to carefully check it. After all, it can have dips, cracks, large differences between the floorboards. Such a floor should be well leveled. First you need to putty all the cracks and then sand the wooden base. If the floorboards strongly creak and stagger, then they can be attached to the logs with self-tapping screws. But if they have completely become unusable, then it is better to disassemble the floor and replace the unusable boards with new ones.

Which underlay is best?

There are many options for flooring underlays. Before making a choice, you need to find out why it is needed and which one is better, as well as what is its compatibility with different types of parquet.

It should be noted that for a parquet board or for a wooden floor installed on logs, soft substrates. For example, cork or made of polyethylene foam. Such substrates are very relevant, because they are easy to install and have a low price. In addition, they have good thermal insulation, especially in combination with aluminum foil, and great resistance to moisture. But they can quickly sag and succumb to the influence of sunlight.

Styrofoam backing suitable for any floor, both for wood and for linoleum and parquet. It is distinguished by its thermal insulation properties, environmental friendliness, does not deteriorate from water and time, keeps its shape and is not affected by insects and other pests.

The polystyrene foam substrate is convenient to lay and it has a fairly affordable price.

Another variety is coniferous substrate, which appeared on the construction market not so long ago. Its main advantage is environmental friendliness. Although it is made from natural ingredients, it is water resistant. Its structure allows to increase sound insulation, while smoothing out the imperfections of the surface on which the flooring will be laid. It also allows you to create a suitable microclimate under the floor. Its thickness varies from 2 to 5 mm, which is perfect for apartments and houses. The disadvantage of such substrates is the occurrence of various fungi and mold under them, as well as the high cost.

Cork backing well suited for parquet boards. It masks unevenness and cracks well, has high sound insulation. The parquet board will not creak and deform when walking.

Such a substrate is divided into several varieties:

• The technical substrate is not susceptible to moisture.
• Bitumen-cork is the most durable, as it contains a mixture of various rocks.
• Rubber-cork backing is able to retain heat and moisture.

But the cork substrate has its drawbacks. Under heavy furniture or where there is a lot of traffic, the underlay can become flat. It is undesirable to use it in a room with a warm electric floor, since the thermal conductivity of the cork substrate is very low.

In rooms with high humidity, a substrate containing rubber is suitable. Its cost is quite high in comparison with non-environmental substrates.

Laying plywood under the parquet board is very relevant for those surfaces where there are a lot of irregularities. Plywood has good thermal insulation and keeps the floor temperature at the same level, it also has high soundproofing properties. But it does not have good resistance to moisture, so the room should be dry.

Also suitable for this type of coating is a substrate made of MDVP. It is made only from natural materials, so it is environmentally friendly, keeps heat well and does not transmit sound, is resistant to water and chemical solvents and has a long service life. Unlike cork underlay, it can be used with underfloor heating.

Another type of substrate is duplex substrate from a polyethylene film and a layer of expanded polystyrene granules between them. Perfectly fits under the parquet board. With its structure, the duplex removes condensate that can accumulate under the floor covering, which contributes to its longer service life. Can be used with underfloor heating.

The absence of negative qualities makes it the most demanded in the construction market. At the same time, it has a lower price than that of substrates made from natural materials.

Adhesive backing also often used when laying parquet boards. It is also called elastilon. This material has a porous structure and an adhesive layer with a protective film on one side. This allows you to firmly fix the parquet boards. It has good thermal insulation and sound insulation, durability, can correct unevenness on the floor surface.

Step-by-step instruction

First, prepare the base and remove the old flooring. To level the surface, use special mixtures, if necessary. The concrete screed must be primed. Irregularities on a rough wooden floor should be sanded well.

After the preparatory work is completed, it is necessary to lay a substrate that will protect the coating from squeaks, moisture and deformation.

Since the parquet board must undergo acclimatization, the sealed coating must be kept indoors for a couple of days. It is recommended to turn on the underfloor heating system for 14 days before starting repair work, then turn it off a few hours before laying. This procedure will help create a favorable climate in the room and avoid heat damage to the finish.

Since wood is a natural material, deviations in its color and texture are likely. You can make a creative drawing from the boards by opening several packages in advance and “trying on” the boards. The length of the boards can also be short and start from 40 cm. Lamellas with a length of 1 m or more are suitable for the middle of the room.

You can lay them in various ways, but the most popular is the herringbone layout, which creates the effect of different textures.

The next step is to measure the width and length of the room, and plan the installation work. To lay the parquet flooring as evenly as possible, first create a drawing of the future laying on the layout. The dimensions of the final row should not exceed more than 6 cm. In this case, a proportional displacement of the first one is necessary.

Laying on a "floating" technology must be carried out according to certain rules. It is made from the longest wall in the room. Expansion wedges are placed diagonally. It is recommended to do this after the assembly of several rows is completed: the finished flooring is shifted with a bracket, and spacers are installed in the formed joints.

It is necessary to start the assembly by cutting with cutters at the first row of planks of the protruding part of the lock, then install the boards and start assembling along the end edge. The edge tiles can also be trimmed if necessary. Subsequent rows are made up of the remains of the previous ones. For a parquet board with a classic lock joint, end fasteners are initially combined, then a tile joint is made along the length with an indispensable knocking out with a shock block.

It is worth saying that it is much easier to work with locking joints. Their docking should occur, if necessary, transversely or longitudinally. For certain types of volumetric lock, additional adjustment of the plastic insert is not necessary. It is enough to accurately fix the plates together. The last row of boards must be carefully sized using scraps, then assembled by locks and inserted into the gap between the wall and the last row. The parquet board should be fixed with a special metal bracket.

If the edge of the bar rests against a pipe or other similar barrier, then draw a line on it where you need to cut off the part and drill a hole with a certain margin of about 15 mm. The board is put in place and the cut is treated with a special solution, then the cut part is attached with glue. Then, after assembly, it is necessary to remove the wedges, connect the “warm floor” system and gradually increasing the temperature, install a decorative plinth and thresholds in the doors. Another important point is that the formation of gaps in the openings between rooms is a mandatory requirement for manufacturers.

When installing a parquet board with an adhesive method, the scheme of work does not coincide with other methods. On a pre-prepared base, apply an adhesive solution and spread evenly with a special tool or spatula. The boards in the first row will need to remove the edge. To make the flooring according to the correct technology, you need to knock it out with a mounting bar and load something heavy on it to better fix the boards. In the same way, the installation or replacement of parquet boards to the base with carnations is carried out. The joint of a tile or laminate must be treated with a special sealant.

Tools and materials

In order to lay the parquet board on the screed, you will need special tools. Usually, when buying this coating, a kit with tools comes with it. You also need to have polyurethane adhesive or sealant, a backing, mounting wedges, a hacksaw, an electric jigsaw, metal staples, a pencil, a tape measure, and a primer. If the question arises of what to cut, then a jigsaw or a circular saw will do.

Of the professional construction tools, you may need a puncher. In order to do the job well, you will need tools designed for long-term operation and heavy loads. Otherwise, a cheap device will quickly fail. For an electric jigsaw, purchase additional saws. And for the puncher, you will have to buy additional drills so that nothing distracts you from work.

These tools are suitable for laying parquet boards with skirting boards. But if there are difficulties in installation, for example, when bypassing pipes, you will need additional tools, such as a drill, a mounting foot.