Ventilation ducts in the house of aerated concrete. We build ventilation ducts in the house of brick and aerated concrete

Ventilation in a house made of aerated concrete is a necessary thing, because this material is characterized by special absorbent properties and quickly absorbs surrounding moisture. If an unnatural level of moisture is observed in the premises, then a change in the finishing layer begins, and the level of heat saving of the walls decreases.

Properly equipped ventilation will help create a suitable atmosphere for living in a house made of aerated concrete.

Precisely thought out and organized ventilation in the house will help create the right atmosphere for life. A do-it-yourself ventilation device guarantees the full circulation of oxygen in a private house and in a building made of aerated concrete, preventing it from lingering.

Installation Highlights

In standard buildings, the ventilation system is implemented using specialized channels that are mounted in the walls. In aerated concrete houses, a different system is needed, so they are difficult.

The material used is gas permeable, which has positive and negative consequences(violation of the tightness of the air ducts). To solve the problem, the following options are used:

1. Installation of the central channel, made of reliable galvanized steel. To avoid the formation of condensate, it can be insulated (sheathed with small-sized aerated concrete blocks).
2. Brick laying of the channel and internal walls.
3. Sleeved with a channel made of high-quality plastic.

Kinds

Any building requires a private design of the duct system. But there are two main types of systems:

System installation

Many people who have just moved into a purchased house or are building it from scratch ask themselves a completely logical and reasonable question, how to make ventilation in the house?

Moreover, it is very important that the ventilation system fully complies with all sanitary and technical standards. Use a specialized complex, which consists of certain systems. Air ducts are made from the following materials:

• zinc;
• plastic;
• asbestos cement.

They are laid in all rooms. The ventilation ducts that leave the premises are connected approximately at the level of the ceiling (attic), in such situations it is very important that they are insulated in those places where they go to the roof.

To lay forced ventilation in an aerated concrete house with your own hands, you need pipes with a 13-centimeter cross section.

For natural, pipes are taken with a slightly larger diameter, a difference of 2 centimeters. Further, a hole is made in the aerated concrete wall with a small interval of half a centimeter in each direction, and the air duct systems are fixed in them.

For successful completion, it is necessary to prepare a special solution before installation, and all holes in which pipes and fans will be mounted must be waterproofed.

What not to do

Professionals strongly recommend not to install ventilation system channels in aerated concrete houses in load-bearing walls. This leads to negative consequences, since the creation of condensate in the premises begins, and the indicators of heat-saving qualities decrease.

Aerated concrete houses require special attention, so the systems are equipped in shafts or partitions designated for these purposes, which are located between the internal walls. So you can create an excellent air exchange with your own hands, even in a large building.

The most effective laying method is sleeving using a plastic ventilation duct. In the aerated concrete structure, a ventilation outlet is fixed, this is done in the first block, and the system is wired from it.

Further installation involves cutting holes of a suitable size, where the duct is laid. Plastic ventilation ducts have their advantages, if they are embedded in the aerated concrete of one of the private houses, then the owners can forget about condensate.

If ventilation is needed in an apartment building, then two types of systems are offered:

1. Valve in the window profile.
2. Built into the wall.

The second option is not always available, because certain technical capacities are needed, so window valves are an easy solution, even if you have aerated concrete walls.

If the air flow increases, then a reliable and powerful exhaust fan will have to be installed in a multi-storey building, which provides a high rate of air exchange. The device is selected based on the parameters of the room.

In some cases, you will need to install a powerful fan

Why choose inertial hoods

If a person is wondering about the choice of an air duct system in a house, then it is worth considering inertial supply and exhaust structures. Before making purchases, it is worthwhile to calculate the length and cross sections of the channels.

Then the location of absolutely all valves is determined. For proper implementation, a complete ventilation scheme of the house is drawn up, which is based on the characteristics of air interaction. According to the laws of physics, warm air rises and cold air sinks.

Even if the ventilation system is installed independently, then you need to consider what materials and tools are needed for installation. At the moment, stores offer a wide range of products with which you can install an air circulation system as soon as possible.

Additional Steps

It is important to take care of the temperature conditions, that is, the heating or cooling of the supplied air. If preference is given to systems of a recuperative type, then this will reduce the level of heat loss by 25-30 percent. This action occurs by blocking the heat leakage caused by air channels.

The uniqueness of aerated concrete lies in the porosity of the structure, so the blocks are simply not able to cope with the removal of the accumulated amount of moisture. The level of operational properties decreases and the interior and exterior finishes begin to deteriorate.

Professionals say that such houses urgently need a high-quality air duct system that allows you to create the most comfortable (no moisture, drafts, quick and regular air changes) and acceptable living conditions for people.

Hello!

Yes, I’ll tell you honestly, I even dreamed about your ventilation at night :). I will first describe a few introductory points to make it easier to understand the logic of my conclusions.

The way you describe, with output to only one wall, it definitely won’t work. The branches are too long. In addition, if you have a space of about 100 mm under the ceiling, this is very, very small for an air duct. Such a system is the appearance of ventilation. Channels that are "convenient" for ventilation will work (kitchen, for example, and from the furnace), and that's it. The rest just won't work. And the difference in sections (branches) does not compensate for this. You need to use two walls, I strongly recommend this to you. Two large brick pipes will come out on the roof along the walls, and inside they will have the necessary pipes. It's just useless to pull from the right side of the house (on both floors) to the left wall. It will look as if there is ventilation on the right side of the house, but it will not be in fact.

Now on the principle of organizing the inflow. Look, it makes no sense to make inflows in the same rooms where the hoods are. The inflow must enter the furthest room from the hood, reach out to the hood and stretch out :), and it is in this process that the guarantee that the air will be clean and there will be no drafts. If you put an inflow in a room where there is an exhaust, then the air from the inflow will immediately go to the exhaust, along the simplest path. And nothing will be "ventilated", except for a draft from the inflow to the exhaust. Therefore, in kitchens, as a rule, there is no special inflow. And in bathrooms and toilets. And vice versa, the inflow is done in bedrooms, living rooms, etc., where there are no hoods. The meaning of ventilation is to change the air in the whole house a certain number of times in a certain time. To do this, the air in the rooms far from the hoods is let into the house through the inflow, through all leaky doors it is drawn to the rooms with hoods, and is drawn out. This applies to all areas of the house, except for the boiler room (room with a boiler). In this room, on the contrary, it is prescribed to make a separate supply and exhaust for this room. So that the air in the room is completely replaced 4 times per hour. And therefore, there is a window in the boiler room (for inflow, and it is ajar all the time), and therefore the boiler room must have its own exhaust (its own separate channel upstairs, not combined with the rest into one pipe).

Once again I will return to the principle of ventilation written above, I will repeat: the meaning of ventilation is to change the air in the whole house a certain number of times in a certain time. To do this, the air in the rooms far from the hoods is let into the house through the inflow, through all leaky doors it is drawn to the rooms with hoods, and is drawn out. It is necessary to perform either this way, or sealed rooms, and in everyone its inflow and in each - own working exhaust channel. Do you understand? A non-hybrid solution where the rooms are not airtight, many have extractors, and many have an inflow (as you suggest). Or-or. If you do as you suggest, there will be no air change in the house. It will be stuffy on the right side, it will be stuffy on the second floor, and there will be a draft in the kitchen :). The inflow by itself (when it is not "pulled" by the required volume extractor) also does not work. That is, if the hood in the bathroom does not “pull” on the second floor (and it will not pull if it is “hung” on the left wall), then the flow through the bedroom windows will also not be in the right amount, you understand? And it will be stuffy and humid. In the right part (both at the bottom and at the top), it can reach both condensation and moistening of the lower right (according to the plan) corner of the walls.

Just in case, I will repeat the conclusion on the inflow. No matter how much you put it in, if the hood in the house does not work, then the inflow will not work either. Everything works only when they are approximately equal (supply and exhaust, in terms of power).

So, it seems that all the introductory questions were discussed, let's move on to the specifics. You need on the ground floor in the left wall (where you wanted) to arrange a channel for the kitchen, a channel for the furnace, and a channel for the shower. It is possible to lead two channels in the wall: a furnace and a kitchen with a shower room, and from it there will be two branches to the kitchen and to the shower room. The furnace cannot be connected. In total, there are two channels on the left and two outlets from one. On the right, from the bathroom, you need to lead a channel in the outer wall. On the second floor, next to this channel, there will be a second floor bathroom channel. They cannot be combined into one channel. And on the second floor in the dressing room there will be another channel on the left wall. Not the entrance to the channel going from below, but separate. In summary, it turns out like this.

• first floor from the furnace;
• second floor from the dressing room.

• first floor from the bathroom;
• second floor from the bathroom.

You can refuse the ventilation duct from the dressing room of the second floor, and load everything onto the second floor bathroom channel. Then it will be so.

On the left wall there will be three channels in total:

• first floor from the furnace;
• ground floor from the kitchen and shower room;

On the right wall there will be two channels in total:

• first floor from the bathroom;
• second floor from the bathroom.

I like this option more, and it is more correct.

In total, two pipes will come out on the roof on your right wall, and two pipes on the left wall. It's just that the pipes cannot be taken out, they will freeze up and flow inside. They still need to be insulated and something to cover this insulation. Therefore, a pipe is often removed either from brick, or lined with a profiled sheet, sometimes with siding, and inside this large pipe there are pipes of ventilation ducts, insulated. And on the roof you end up with two pipes, and they have 4 air ducts. According to the height of the outlet of these pipes, you need to focus on the diagram below (relative to the distance from the roof ridge, there will also be a height of the outlet of the pipe).

According to the inflow, I would leave points 2,3,4 and 5. No need in the kitchen. And in the furnace, just open the window all the time, for ventilation.

As for whether ventilation will be effective in winter and summer. Look, without effective ventilation in winter, you would have damp walls and humid air. Yes, additional heat losses go to ventilation, but they are taken into account in the heat calculation. Your wall is very good in terms of heat, it was taken with a good margin (for Zaporozhye). With properly executed (in terms of heat) walls and other structures, good ventilation does not affect comfort in winter. As for the summer. Working ventilation "makes" fresh air in the house. Not stuffy. As for the temperature of this air, this is not a question of ventilation, but of the walls (your walls are good, they "keep" both heat and heat). But you also get quite hot in the summer, so if the air temperature is higher than comfortable, you will have to air-condition. That is, this is not a question of ventilation, do you understand? Insulate the roof well so that the room warms up less in summer.

It seems to have commented on all your questions. Now you need to decide whether the location option that I propose suits you. Then I will calculate the specific sections of these air ducts.

I look forward to your comments, and ask if anything is unclear.

If in the future gas, then the chimney of the boiler and the ventilation of the boiler room must be done immediately according to the requirements of the gas workers.
And immediately, when building a house, sleeve the channels. Especially the chimney. And best of all, everything

If you put a fan on each channel, then where does the supply air "appear" to replace the remote one?
You won't keep the windows open all the time...

As for the exhaust channels.
In addition to the kitchen and bathrooms, you also have those. rooms, closets. there is something else (this is what I could read from the small text) These rooms, in a good way, also need to be ventilated.

Ideally, with such areas of the house, it is better to use mechanical ventilation. Less problems in whether it will work or not.
But it can also be natural. But then you can’t get by with channels for the kitchen and bathroom.

And in any case, it is better for a specialist to indicate everything related to the ventilation system and not an architect. Their solutions are always standard and correspond to the proposals of a hundred years ago.

No one will really tell you anything.
You must first understand all your "Wishlist". You give them in doses.

Even now.
You write that "... conditional modes: summer, 20 outside 20 inside; ..."
But do not write anything about the region where the house will stand. A lot will depend on this.
Let's say that the location is such that you have no lower than -5 in winter and no higher than +20 in summer.
In this case, everything is very simple. Heat up the air and don't heat up in summer.

And if you live somewhere that is -30 in winter and +30 in summer, then in addition to heating and not heating, you will also need cooling.

Etc.

So...
Information:
Region - Moscow region.
Wishes - less capital investment, assuming high operating costs (therefore, recovery is not an option).
4 adults and 2 children will live in the house
Aerated concrete house, cold attic. Two floors. Ceilings everywhere 2.85

Now the notes:
1. I want to do air exchange in dressing rooms through overflow grilles
2. Inflow - either through the window, or through the supply valves of the KIV type, or through the supply valves to the formation. windows (I will be grateful for the recommendation on this matter).
3. Hood - a recommendation is needed (in fact, that's why I wrote the question).

Questions:
1. Why sleeve channels? I just want a vent. channels inside the internal walls of aerated concrete. Sleeve - is it necessary? What are the benefits?
2. With regards to the chimney - I want a chimney made of stainless steel, "a pipe in a pipe", with basalt wool between the pipes. On the first floor, in the boiler room, it will go without any finishing. On the second floor, through the bathroom - I want to sew up the plasterboard, tiles on top. Through the cold attic - I think, too, without everything, just the chimney itself. What do you think of such a decision?
3. Well, in general - how would you recommend organizing a ventilation system? What channel sizes to accept? For example, which channel to take to a bathroom with an area of ​​​​3-4m2? Which one to take in a living room of 30m2?

Good ventilation, as you know, allows not only to feel comfortable in your own home, but also prevents the appearance of fungus and mold in it, as well as the unpleasant smell of dampness.

Houses made of aerated concrete blocks especially need ventilation, because they are usually built quickly and at an affordable price, and after completion of the work it turns out that the air exchange in the premises is not sufficient, and the temperature does not meet the established standards.

Of course, if you order turnkey construction of aerated concrete houses from professionals, you can avoid such difficulties, but most often the problem with ventilation still has to be solved on your own. From this article you will learn everything about the installation of a ventilation system in a house made of aerated concrete.

Necessary equipment

To create normal air exchange and maintain optimal temperature and humidity indicators, the following equipment should be installed in the house:

• Ventilation shaft on the roof providing natural air ventilation.
• Fans, as well as supply and supply and exhaust systems.
• Compressor-condenser unit for providing air conditioning.
• Fire damper and air damper to remove smoke, if necessary.
• Automation for air conditioning systems.
• Air ducts and silencers.

Despite the fact that the permeability of aerated concrete walls is not high enough, installing such a system can provide comfortable conditions for staying in the house.

It is immediately worth noting that you can improve the air circulation in your home with the help of supply valves. They can be of two types:

• Window valves.
• Those that are built into the wall.

The first type of valve cannot always be installed independently for technical reasons, but it is quite possible to install a window valve yourself. Exhaust fans should always be selected taking into account the area of ​​​​the premises, while paying special attention to the fan power.

With no less responsibility should be taken to the choice of equipment for the supply and exhaust system: calculate the required sections of the ventilation shafts, as well as the length of the blowers. In addition, it is worth deciding on the location of the supply and exhaust valves. To do this, you need to draw up a ventilation scheme for the house.

We watch ventilation ducts in a country house in the video:

Ventilation in an aerated concrete house is a very important element of the communications system, without which it will not be possible to safely and comfortably operate housing. Aerated concrete is a popular and high-quality modern building material that provides excellent thermal insulation characteristics, but has one drawback - high hygroscopicity, which greatly absorbs moisture.

In the old days, when metal-plastic houses and stretch ceilings were not so common, forced ventilation was not necessary, since wood and other natural finishing materials perfectly pass air. There were gaps in the frames, the walls absorbed moisture well and led out.

Modern finishing materials are not capable of this, and plastic windows guarantee maximum tightness, so aerated concrete often causes an increase in humidity in a private house, the spread of mold and other problems.

To avoid the negative impact of the characteristics of aerated concrete on the microclimate in the room, it is imperative to take care of the quality air circulation in the house by installing the ventilation system. There can be several ways of arranging the system, all of them differ in costs, labor intensity, scale and other parameters.

Why ventilation is needed

A house built from gas blocks is considered a budget option - it is built quickly and very simply, the walls are obtained with a high level of thermal insulation and perfectly even. It is possible to save on installation and no need to involve special equipment, and then on finishing.

The only drawback of aerated concrete is the ability to absorb moisture quickly and a lot. Even after finishing the walls with plaster, one hundred percent protection cannot be achieved. The result of exposure to moisture can be a rapid delamination and deterioration of the finish, as well as a danger to the health and life of people of a poor microclimate, microorganisms.

It is also important that wet vapors, getting inside the blocks of aerated concrete, significantly reduce the bearing capacity of the material. And this can lead to the destruction of the house and reduce its life.

In view of such features, the ventilation of an aerated concrete house must be performed efficiently, correctly and responsibly: in each room, the system is equipped in accordance with air exchange standards. It will remove moisture and unpleasant odors, attracting fresh air from outside.

Types of ventilation systems

Before you make ventilation, you need to study the features of installing the system in a house made of aerated concrete. In buildings made of traditional materials, channels are installed only where humidity is high (kitchen, bath, bathroom), in this case, channels are often needed in every room.

If this option seems very complicated and expensive, you can equip ventilation where humidity is high, and install interior doors with special ventilation grilles or a gap from below in living rooms.

• Passive - the air moves naturally through the ventilation ducts, which are brought to the roof of the building.
• Mixed type - exhaust fans are installed where the humidity is highest, and turn on only when necessary automatically (at predetermined time intervals) or with manual start.
• Forced - in this type of construction, an exhaust fan is mounted in the common duct, which works on all air ducts.
• Forced supply and exhaust type - air exchange is carried out by a mechanical ventilation system equipped with a heat exchanger.

Natural passive ventilation

Passive ventilation works only if the installation is correct and the air supply/exhaust is normal. In order for the air to leave on its own, all ventilation ducts from the premises must go to the roof of the building to a certain height. If these nuances are not taken into account, traction will be poor and even “rollover” is possible.

• Subject to location from the ridge at a distance of 150 centimeters - 50 centimeters above the ridge
• If the distance is up to 3 meters - the head of the channel is performed at the level of the ridge
• Provided that the distance is more than 3 meters - the top of the channel should not be lower than the border of the line conventionally drawn from the ridge at an even angle of 10 degrees to the horizon

• Windows with air valves - these can be either slotted systems, or simply the presence of a design in the form of a handle for opening the sash (they have a minimum opening area, so they are not suitable for large rooms and can be an auxiliary option).
• In-wall air vents are the most efficient choice, installed on the walls and providing a normal supply of fresh air.

The ventilation ducts must be kept clean, as debris will interfere with the operation of the system. That is why intra-wall shafts and structures in the format of boxes extending as a vertical pipe beyond the boundaries of the roof are gradually abandoned - they eventually cease to fulfill their functions.

The easiest way is to make holes in aerated concrete walls to ensure the inflow and outflow of air: in each room, a valve is installed at the bottom of the wall for air inflow, and at the top for outflow. So you do not need to touch the aerated concrete walls and violate their integrity.

Useful tips: if you put valves under the windows, in winter the air will warm up with heat from radiators. When bringing the exhaust pipe to the roof, you need to mount an umbrella / fungus on top to protect against precipitation or a deflector.

Forced

This type of ventilation system involves high installation and operation costs, since it includes special devices and uses electricity for operation. But the efficiency of such systems is much higher.

• Air ducts are mounted with exhaust fans, fresh air is supplied through its network of channels.
• To maintain the optimum temperature in the room, the system is equipped with units for heating the air coming from the street.
• The most economical option is to use a heat recuperator instead of an electric heater. Such a heat exchanger is equipped with two fans (exhaust / supply), in which fresh air is heated by the heat of gases that are removed from the house.

Forced ventilation is assembled according to a scheme similar to natural, it is simply mounted additionally with a fan.

• Supply type - the fan is mounted on the supply duct: the device works with injection, so the air movement is slow. In this regard, it is important to correctly determine the installation point of the fan and do it in such a way that the air flows along the walls, and not perpendicularly. Usually caps with slots along the walls are attached to the valves.
• Exhaust type - the most popular, the fan works on the hood. Mounted on the plane of the wall with a through hole or in it. It is important to correctly determine the performance of the device: for example, 25 m / h is enough for a bathroom, 60 m / h for a kitchen, and 30 m / h for living rooms.
• Supply and exhaust type- fans are installed both on the extract and on the inflow. There are ready-made blocks of equipment that are mounted in the attic in the format of ducting through the premises that go through the ceiling. Blocks are necessarily completed with heaters, recuperators, filters.

Experienced craftsmen say that systems with recuperators in a building with heating can reduce heat loss by 25-30%. Most often, the heat exchanger is mounted in the attic, then connected to a common channel, leaving free access to the equipment (for maintenance).

mixed type

In a system of this type, fresh air comes in naturally, and the exhaust is carried out by exhaust fans - one powerful one (installed in the attic with ducting) or separate devices built into the walls and windows of the premises.

Such ventilation is most often divided into rooms - for example, natural ventilation can work in one room (living quarters), in another - forced ventilation (bathroom, kitchen, boiler room, pantry, etc.). Most often, a hood is used with the installation of supply channels.

As for the kitchen hood, in an aerated concrete house it is better to choose models with exhaust air exhausted through a window / wall directly to the street. It is desirable that this be a separate unit.

Device of ventilation ducts

When planning to implement a ventilation system in a house from, you need to carefully study everything. Particular attention is always paid to the installation of ventilation ducts, remembering that aerated concrete is a fragile material, it is afraid of sudden changes in temperature and moisture.

Masters do not advise mounting the system in external walls, as condensation will appear, it is better to equip everything in separate ventilation shafts or partitions.

• Lining with pipes made of plastic, asbestos
• Laying out of brick
• Installation of a box made of zinc-coated steel with laying in small-sized blocks of aerated concrete

A steel box is rarely installed, as it is expensive and requires a lot of effort. And the formation of condensate on the walls of metal structures has a bad effect on aerated concrete blocks, suggesting the need for thermal insulation.

Brick ventilation ducts

Laying brick ventilation ducts involves a certain sequence of actions, as well as the availability of the necessary materials and tools.

• It is desirable that there are few such channels in the building; it is better to build them in the walls of adjacent rooms where high humidity is noted.
• Masonry is performed only from solid bricks, if hollow - then with the subsequent filling of voids with cement mortar.
• The solution must be applied carefully so that the mixture does not get inside the channel. The seams are completely filled, overwritten every 2-3 rows of stone, so as not to allow the exhaust air to end up in adjacent rooms and rooms.
• Inside the walls of the channels, it is desirable to create smooth, so that the air circulates unhindered. The excess mixture from the joints is immediately removed, the surface is smoothed with a trowel. Also, then you can sleeve the channel with an air duct made of metal.

Silicate brick is not used in such masonry, as it is afraid of high temperature and crumbles. Mechanical devices cannot be installed in brick channels.

Lining with plastic pipes

The most effective way to install forced ventilation. In the installation, plastic pipes with a cross section of 13 centimeters or a rectangular shape with a cross section of 150 cm2 are used.

For natural ventilation, it is better to take more pipes. For an accurate calculation of air ducts, the following data are needed: the number of people in housing, the volume of exhaust air, climate features, etc. Calculations should be carried out by a specialist. Ventilation is arranged simultaneously with the construction of the house.

• Fastening the outlet in a block located at the level of the ventilation hole, connecting it to the pipe.
• Cutting holes a couple of millimeters more pipes in blocks for air ducts (during masonry). Usually a hacksaw is used for this.
• Filling with mortar the space between the air ducts and the sawn walls of the blocks. Docking of pipes (building up) in the process of laying walls.
• Insulation of pipes in the areas of their passage through the attic, roof.
• Separate air ducts at the attic level are connected into a single channel, which is brought out into the street through the roof or is connected to a heat exchanger, a duct fan. All openings are carefully sealed and sealed.

System installation

The assembly of the entire system can be carried out in different ways and depends on the chosen method of arranging ventilation. So, the installation of pipes and the laying of brick channels are carried out at the construction stage of the building, the installation of fans and valves can be carried out after.

It is best to make special channels at the construction stage - in all rooms or only where high humidity is noted. Brick channels or pipes in blocks are laid along the walls and led to the attic, uniting them there and insulating them at the exit points to the roof.

Pipes are usually taken from plastic, with a diameter of 13 centimeters or more. They are laid in aerated concrete blocks, insulated with mortar.

• Drawing up an air duct installation diagram - if there is one system, the main is created from one air duct laid horizontally under the ceiling.
• Calculation of the duct diameter based on the calculation of the volume of air that is removed.
• Calculation of the number of fittings, straight sections and their length (according to the scheme).
• Purchase of materials.
• Making holes in each wall along the cross section of the duct.
• Assembly on couplings / clamps - starts from the far room.
• The output of the outlet (usually through the kitchen) through the wall to the street.
• Execution in the duct of windows for hoods, closed with bars.

When installing the channel model, it is inserted into the hole for the hood in the wall. Wall models (often used for bathrooms) are mounted indoors to the wall exactly horizontally so that the fan works correctly.

What not to do

When a private house is being built and a ventilation system is created in it, it is very important to take preliminary calculations seriously and do everything in accordance with the regulations.

• Ventilation in load-bearing walls is not done in order to avoid a decrease in strength.
• Both exhaust and supply valves are installed in boiler rooms.
• In rooms separated from the room with a ventilation duct by two doors, both valves are also made.
• The minimum cross section of the channel should be 0.016 m2 (about 15 centimeters pipe diameter).
• The most effective method is to line the ventilation duct with a plastic pipe. Metal pipes will collect condensate.
• In apartment buildings, it is better to install metal-plastic windows with valves or powerful exhaust fans.

Why choose inertial hoods

Inertial supply and exhaust structures demonstrate high efficiency, provided that the sections and lengths of the channels are correctly calculated, as well as the correct location of the valves. First, they draw up a detailed diagram of the house, taking into account the interaction of air (cold at the bottom, warm at the top), the volume of air exchange.

Inertial hoods are quite simple according to the principle of operation - when air comes from the street, they close, preventing it from entering the room. When air comes from the hood, the valve lets it through, opening. Properly providing for the installation of such devices, you can create an effective ventilation system.

Ventilation in an aerated concrete house is an issue that cannot be ignored if it is planned to create comfortable and healthy conditions in housing. In addition, properly equipped ventilation will significantly increase the strength, reliability and durability of the house itself.