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Gas bottle stove. Do-it-yourself stove-stove from a gas cylinder

The stove from the gas cylinder will be more economical and more efficient than its equal in complexity of manufacturing from other improvised materials. The very shape of the gas cylinder will help. The quality of the furnace is largely determined by its furnace. Ideal in all respects, the firebox is spherical. Considering that the furnace must have at least 2 openings - an inlet, for loading fuel and air supply, and an outlet, for exiting exhaust gases into the chimney, the optimal shape of the furnace is not a very long and narrow cylinder with rounded ends, but such a cylinder is. Its shape is chosen based on the need to keep more pressure with minimal metal consumption, but the result is the same.

What oven can be made from a cylinder?

Since the shape of the furnace is optimized on the most general grounds, then cylinder furnaces can be very different - from fiery combustion to sophisticated designs, from which even an experienced heat engineer, as they say, turns their eyes back. This article discusses several furnaces, built in ascending order of manufacturing complexity; their purpose is also taken into account:

for residential premises.
Heating for non-residential premises.
Summer cooking.
Universal small-sized portable emergency; oven just in case.

The need to minimize the cost of additional materials and the ability to make a furnace with one's own hands without complex tools and / or technological operations were also taken into account. Of course, a prerequisite is sufficient convenience and safety of use. Unfortunately, recommendations on the legalization of home-made stoves cannot be given: fire rules for them are very strict. Here everyone needs to resolve the issue on the spot, as anyone can. Or not to decide at all: building furnaces yourself is not prohibited anywhere, but possible consequences will fully fall on the author / owner.

Note: the requirement of maximum simplicity and cheapness does not apply to the rocket furnace described at the end. However, this stove not only heats a large room on twigs, but also allows you to get a real warm couch at home without building a brick stove. And the cost of materials and labor for it is required several times less.

Which balloon to look for?

First of all: for the furnace you need an all-metal cylinder. Composite explosion-proof are unsuitable, they are not heat-resistant. A 5-liter household cylinder (pos. 1 in the figure) is definitely not suitable for the main part of the stove: it is too small. The ratio of its surface to volume will give such own heat losses that it will not work to burn any fuel completely. To make additional thermal insulation - the game is not worth the candle. The complexity of the work, the cost of materials, the dimensions and weight of the furnace will increase so much that all the work loses its meaning.

Note: the only possible use of the 5-litre bottle is as a fuel tank for an oil-fired stove. Two of these will be discussed below.

12 and 27-liter cylinders (pos. 2 and 3) allow you to make a stove just in case, which can also be stored in the pantry of a city apartment. With a 12-liter oven, a heat output of 2-3 kW can be removed, and with a 27-liter - 5-7 kW.

The best blank for the furnace is the most common 50-liter propane cylinder with a diameter of 300 mm and a height of 850 mm (item 4). Its volume is already sufficient for the efficient combustion of any fuel by any known method, and its weight and dimensions do not complicate the work. In addition, there are many such cylinders in everyday life that are still quite serviceable, but have exhausted their resource according to specifications; they can be bought cheaply. Most of the furnaces described below are made from such cylinders.

Note: if there is a choice, a cylinder with a valve should be used, not a valve. From the valve, an excellent power regulator of the furnace is obtained by supplying air (air throttle).

As for the common 40-liter cylinders for industrial gases (item 5) with a caliber of 240 mm, they are not suitable for the furnace: although the walls of thick, durable metal will ensure the durability of the furnace, the cylinders themselves are too narrow, heavy and bulky. A good powerful oven, up to 100 kW or more, could be made from a 12- or 18-inch professional cylinder, but they are rare, expensive, and not every healthy man can shoulder such an empty one.

From small 2-10 liter industrial cylinders, in principle, it would be possible to make camping stoves, but again - the metal is thick, durable, it is difficult to work with it, and the stove itself will come out too heavy. There are, however, in the population of small special balloons some exotic individuals, from which excellent ones are obtained; later we will talk about them.

From simple to complex: balloon potbelly stove

You probably guessed even earlier that the simplest home-made stove from a gas cylinder is emergency backup, 12 or 27 liters. You can put a 50-liter stove on it, but such a stove will no longer fit in the city pantry. A balloon potbelly stove will not be able to regularly heat several generations: the relatively thin metal of the household cylinder body will burn out. But it is quite possible to heat a shed with it from time to time or hold out on it until it is warm.

The design is extremely simple, see fig. Of the purchased units, only a furnace door or a monoblock from a furnace / blower is needed. Here, the theoretically optimal form of a plump, curvy cylinder works to the maximum: a balloon potbelly stove does not need a grate with an ash pan, all sorts of internal partitions. One thing that is necessary, like any potbelly stove, for good heat transfer is a horizontal chimney elbow made of a metal pipe with a length of 2-2.5 m.

Note: the diameter of the chimney of a 12-liter potbelly stove is 60 mm, 27-liter 80 mm, 50-liter 100-120 mm.

balloon cooking

Gas cylinders make good grills,. They also burn fuel, but these are no longer stoves, but culinary technological equipment, and quite a lot has been written about it. Therefore, we will no longer expand on gas-balloon cooking. However, those who are interested, as they say, without departing from the cash register, to learn how to make a brazier-barbecue from a balloon, can watch the video:

About pyrolysis

In all the following designs of furnaces from cylinders, pyrolysis is used to one degree or another - decomposition under the influence of high temperature of heavy organic compounds into light, volatile and combustible ones. Pyrolysis allows you to burn everything that, in principle, can burn, completely - to carbon dioxide and water vapor. It is hardly possible to build a furnace with an efficiency of more than 70% without pyrolysis.

One of the main parameters of the pyrolysis process that must be taken into account when developing a furnace is the degree of its complexity. Simply put, this is the number of thermochemical reactions necessary to break the original complex and heavy molecules into capable of burning to the end.

Pyrolysis of heavy combustible liquids (eg used motor oil) occurs, as a rule, in 2-3 stages. Wood fuel decomposes into easily combustible gases already in many stages, and for its complete pyrolysis it takes 5-6 times more time than in a liquid fuel furnace.

Since the exhaust gases move from the combustion source to the chimney under the action of draft, pyrolysis ends at a certain distance from the furnace. For oil furnaces, it is insignificant, about 10-15 cm, and in them pyrolysis can be combined in space with afterburning of pyrolysis gases. This condition is also true for coal-fired ovens; the volatile components of coal are released and decompose easily.

For the full pyrolysis of wood fuel, the length of the gas-flame path is already about 1 m, and in its space it is necessary to distinguish, physically or implicitly, 3 zones (chambers): the furnace itself (gasifier), where the fuel burns and primary pyrolysis gases are released, the secondary gasifier (reactor ) with a supply of secondary air (secondary), where the pyrolysis is completely completed, and an afterburner, also with a secondary supply, where light gases are completely burned. These conditions must be taken into account when designing a wood-burning stove.

Oil garage

The next in complexity, cost and labor intensity is from a balloon. This product is in great demand: you can heat a garage with such a stove for nothing, but there is no large-scale production, firefighters forbid it. Let us briefly recall the principle of its work.

Oil is quietly burning in the fuel tank, air is supplied here in a dosed manner using an air throttle. Here, the heat of its combustion goes mainly to evaporation. The vapors rise into the vertical gasification column, or reactor. The walls of the reactor are perforated; outside air freely enters through the holes. the pressure in the entire tract of the furnace due to the draft of the chimney is below atmospheric.

The influx of air sharply increases the combustion of oil vapor, the temperature rises and pyrolysis begins. The products of pyrolysis also begin to burn, due to which the temperature rises even more; in the middle part of the reactor, it can reach 1300 degrees. At this temperature, nitrogen oxides are formed in a noticeable amount. Nitrogen oxidation is an endothermic reaction, it consumes a significant part of the fuel energy. Nevertheless, nitrogen oxidation is useful in this case: it protects the furnace from overheating and explosion; the rate of formation of nitrogen oxides increases sharply with increasing temperature, according to a power law.

In the upper part of the reactor, the pyrolysis gases have almost burned out and there is a large excess of air. For complete afterburning in the column, it would be required to make it several meters high and deaf, without perforation, but then nitrogen oxides would skip the peak of their temperature instability and carry away a significant fraction of the fuel energy into the pipe. To avoid this, the gases from the reactor are released into the afterburner or afterburner.

The afterburner is divided approximately in half by an incomplete partition. Directly in front of it, pyrolysis gases burn out, maintaining a temperature that excludes the stabilization of nitrogen oxides. Behind the partition, all the oxygen in the air is already used up, but the temperature here is even higher than 700 degrees. Now nitrogen oxides decompose with the release of energy back into nitrogen and oxygen, which goes to the afterburning of the remains of pyrolysis gases; the energy release of these 2 processes maintains an approximately constant temperature in the afterburner.

The exit to the chimney from the afterburner is located away from the partition, but it is enough to take it 15-20 cm away from it: thermochemical reactions in oil gases proceed quickly. Already completely burnt gases with a temperature of about 400 degrees go into the chimney, which ensures the efficiency of the furnace up to 80% and above.

Usually, a propane 50-liter tank is used for furnaces for working out from cylinders, sawing it in a ratio of 2: 1, a third goes to the tank, and 2/3 to the afterburner, pos. 1 in fig. Up to 30 kW of heat can be removed from such a furnace, but there are plenty of emergencies with a severe outcome from them.

However, in the magazine "Behind the Rulem" the design of a garage furnace for working out with a power of 5-7 kW with a reservoir of a 5-liter cylinder was published quite a long time ago. With such a low power, it was possible to combine the reactor with the afterburner into a single fully functional column:

In the lower cone of the column, the gases expand and the temperature drops to a value sufficient for pyrolysis, but almost eliminating the oxidation of nitrogen.
The perforation of the column is rare and the air flow through it with a slight excess.
In the upper cone, the gases are again delayed for a time sufficient for complete combustion at a power of up to about 8 kW.

Nitrogen oxides are still formed in this furnace, but in an insignificant amount, providing only automatic adjustment of the furnace mode. Operational power adjustment is provided by a rotary valve on the filler neck, which is also an air throttle.

This furnace can be significantly improved if there is a 10 or 12 liter industrial bottle with a caliber of 150 mm and a height of 800/900 mm. In these most often they sell helium for inflating balloons. The profitability of the balloon business reaches 400%, but it is most often carried out on temporary promotions, and the shelf life of a helium-filled cylinder is limited and short: helium is the second fastest diffusion record after hydrogen. Therefore, quite serviceable helium cylinders are often sold on the cheap.

Note: we do not recommend trying to do business with helium alone. All over the world, the floral and festive mafia firmly laid its paw on him, which, they say, even Cosa Nostra bypasses.

The design of the "helium-propane" 2-cylinder furnace for mining is shown in pos. 4. The thick walls of the cylinder distribute heat more evenly along its height, and the dome at the top and narrow, 60-80 mm, exit to the chimney trap gases more efficiently than the cone. Therefore, the perforation of the column and, accordingly, the air inflow can be increased by obtaining a power of 10-12 kW. The maximum filling of 3.5 liters is enough for 3-4 hours of operation at full power.

At the same time, you can improve the fuel-air system. A regular cylinder valve is perfect for the throttle, it only needs to be built up from the inside with a thin-walled steel tube, pos. 4a. You can simply screw it, as much force as you can, onto the part of the fitting protruding inward: the fitting thread on it is tapered, so it will grab it tightly.

It is better to make the filling fitting retractable sliding in the neck, pos. 4b. Through the extended fitting, the furnace is ignited and the fuel level is controlled. And it is relatively safe to add oil to the retracted one while the furnace is running.

If the stove is constantly heated, then it is still advisable to remember the sappers, for whom the most dangerous is not the first, but some N-th mine. You can be completely guaranteed against an emergency with a stove by arranging the fuel supply from a separate feed tank or just a feeder, pos. 5. The height of the feeder must not exceed the maximum allowable fuel level in the tank (for a 5-liter tank, this is approximately 2/3 of its height), and the feeder must be moved at least 0.5 m from the furnace. So you can control the fuel level and refuel the stove as you like. In addition, the volume of the feeder can be any, only its height is limited, so it is quite possible to adapt a tank with refueling for a day or more under it.

"Long" stoves

In this case, this metaphor does not mean stoves from recumbent industrial bottles, but from ordinary 50-liter wood-burning stoves. In the long burning mode, the wood undergoes pyrolysis, which greatly increases the efficiency and duration of the heat transfer of the stoves. The fuel in them (from dry sawdust and weeds to fragments of antique furniture) burns in a thin layer from the surface, so "long" stoves are sometimes called surface burning stoves.

Pyrolysis can occur either in a physically limited separate volume with subsequent burning of pyrolysis gases in an afterburner (these are separate combustion furnaces), or pyrogases immediately escape into a large, well-heated buffer chamber, where pyrolysis is completed and pyrogases are burned, these are combined combustion furnaces. To ensure high efficiency of both, it is highly desirable to heat the air entering the pyrolysis zone.

Bubafonya

An example of a long-burning furnace with separate combustion is the well-known. In it, pyrolysis is concentrated under the yoke - "pancake". The bubafoni device diagram is shown in fig. on right; as the fuel burns, the air duct with the pancake goes down. A lot has already been written about the principles of operation and features of making bubafon, so we note only the following:

The efficiency of homemade bubafoni can exceed 85%, and the duration of heat transfer from one fuel load can reach a day.
Fuel for bubafoni needs room-dry with a moisture content of up to 12%
It is permissible to load fuel into the bubafonya on the move, but it cannot be stopped; for maintenance / repair work, you must wait for the load to completely burn out.
The diameter of a 50-liter tank of 300 mm is the minimum allowable for bubafoni, so this stove must be made from it carefully and with a full understanding of the matter.

Bubafonya - the stove is very economical and is well suited for heating garages and households. premises. Its design is simple and affordable for making at home. On the trail. rice. the main stages of the workflow and dimensions are shown specifically for a balloon bubafoni with a power of up to 5-6 kW. It is only necessary to add that the gaps for air supply between the main (closest to the air duct) ends of the blades must be kept the same. When welding, instead of a conductor, it is convenient to use suitable scraps of metal - pieces of a bar, etc. The blades are first grabbed from the outside, and then, having removed the “conductors”, they are welded to the end.

Note: bubafoni power can be adjusted over a wide range, up to 10 times, but only manually, because. air throttle can only be installed at the upper end of the duct, which is movable.

Slobozhanka

Even simpler in design and not inferior to the bubafon in terms of parameters, the Slobozhanka combined combustion furnace, the diagram in fig. on right. But it is hardly worth making a Slobozhanka from a cylinder, because its minimum allowable diameter is about 500 mm and a balloon Slobozhanka will not show good efficiency. In addition, all Slobozhanka stoves have very serious drawbacks:

The device of the furnace "Slobozhanka"

Extremely toxic gases accumulate under the roof of the furnace, opening the lid of the furnace on the go, you can be poisoned to death.
There is no way to stop the Slobozhanka: if you close the throttle, the stove, before choking, will draw air back through the chimney. The pressure in the furnace will exceed atmospheric pressure and the poisonous mixture will go out.
On the hearth or grate of the furnace, a hard, dense soot settles, as in all "long" furnaces. After about a year (this is on good fuel), it grows to the mouth of the air duct, and it is difficult to knock it down and in places that are easily accessible.

A beautiful stranger

Most other homemade "long" stoves are no better, but more difficult than bubafoni. But there is one, almost purely pyrolysis oven (which is rare on wood) that deserves attention, its drawing is shown in fig. In addition, this stove is also a bunker, which is also rare for wood stoves.

According to the principle of operation, the “stranger” is a simplified and truncated rocket furnace, about which see next. sec. The delay of pyrogases in the afterburner under the hob is achieved by a diaphragm in the chimney, in exactly the same way as the washers distribute the coolant from the heating main to consumers. In the furnace business, such a constructive technique is rare, because. any weakening of traction degrades the quality of the furnace, but in this case, the creators turned evil into good.

How? Power limitation: this is an exclusively summer-country cooking stove. It is only enough for cooking, although several times more can be squeezed out of a 50-liter bottle. But the “stranger” works on any combustible garbage that can be pushed into the bunker; best of all - on fairly long chips, branches and dry stems, and it is much more economical, cheaper, simpler and lighter than the simplest brick slab. The foundation here, of course, is not needed, and the chimney is sufficient with a height of 1.5-2 m.

You can’t refuse the authors of the “stranger” in the knowledge of heat engineering, but they are a little too smart with metal: separate, and even removable for furnaces and the roof of the gasifier (bottom-grate and partition in the original) are simply not needed here. The hearth can be the bottom of the 50-liter cylinder itself with the same 20 mm hole in the center, and the ash pan can be arranged in its skirt. The outlet pipe of the gasifier is welded onto the dome of the cylinder, and the afterburner can be made from cutting a 300 mm pipe or sheet metal. At the same time, it is quite possible to clean the stove through the fuel hopper and the gasifier outlet.

The crown of creation, or...

Emelya never dreamed

The crown of balloon-furnace creativity is, without a doubt, the rocket furnace, see fig. But not only and not so much because to make it according to all the rules requires considerable (albeit simple) work, attention, quick wit and accuracy. The main thing is that the rocket stove, as if on purpose, was created for a 50-liter tank, although most often it is made from a barrel. Not only the shape, but also the dimensions of a 50-liter propane cylinder are optimal for this furnace: if a rocket from a barrel heats up a horizontal section of the chimney in a stove bench (burs) up to 6 m long, then a balloon one, with a four times smaller drum capacity (see below about it) - up to 4 m. It is unlikely that anyone will need a bed of this length, but the rocket burr can be made from thin-walled metal corrugated, laying it in a wave-like manner in the array of the bed. This, of course, will greatly increase both the efficiency of heating the room and the duration of heat transfer after heating, which can reach 12 hours.

The advantages of the rocket stove are not limited to this:

This furnace is not only long, but also continuous burning. Additional loading of fuel is possible on the move of the furnace without restrictions.
The rocket stove can also be stopped and re-ignited without restrictions, and the ignition itself is elementary simple: with paper, straw or shavings, like a fire.
The rocket stove breathes, as does the .
Unlike brick stoves, rocket stoves are almost insensitive to long breaks in the furnace during the cold season.
Acceleration of a newly built or standing rocket furnace is also simple: heating with paper, shavings or straw until the couch warms to the touch.
The foundation of the rocket furnace is not needed: although its weight is under a ton, the support area is large and the load from the furnace on the floor does not exceed 250 kg per square meter allowed by SNiP. m.

There are only 2 shortcomings in the rocket stove, and, as they say, they are not fatal. Firstly, after kindling and, possibly, in the process of burning, it is necessary to set the furnace mode by adjusting the air supply. If the oven hums a lot, this does not mean that it heats better. On the contrary, in this mode, the gas-air path quickly overgrows with soot; a correctly heated stove quietly whispers.

Secondly, the power of the furnace is regulated only by the amount of fuel loading. Operational power adjustment is generally impossible; only the oven mode is set by the air supply. On the move, fuel can not only be loaded to increase power, but also separate smoldering chips can be pulled out with tongs and immediately extinguished, but this is a fire hazard.

Note: if the “whisper” of the stove seems that it heats up weakly - it doesn’t matter, wait, the heat goes into the battery. The stove will give it away later, cooling down after heating. If you need to warm up quickly, without thinking about fuel consumption yet, open the air until it buzzes. It is undesirable to bring it to a loud roar, soot inside will strongly settle.

How does a rocket work?

The device and principle of operation of the rocket furnace. Here we recall the most important.

The idea of a rocket furnace "on the fingers" is as follows: imagine 2 physically connected processes with an efficiency less than 100%; let's say 90% each. For the flow of the 2nd, the products of the 1st are needed. If they are launched together at once, then due to mutual interference due to entropy, the final efficiency will not exceed 65%. And if you “scroll” the 1st one first, save its results somewhere and then run the 2nd one on them, then the maximum overall efficiency will be slightly more than 80%.

In the most general sense, this is a universal law. It is thanks to him that the market economy, with all its cumbersome and gluttonous financial, administrative and security superstructures, turns out to be more efficient than subsistence farming. In the rocket furnace, this law is technically implemented by the sequential inclusion of 2 furnaces, generating heat and storage-heating.

The generator stove consists of (see Fig.) a blower 1a with an air supply regulator (they put the furnace into operation), a fuel hopper 1b with a blank cover, a channel for supplying secondary air 1c that ensures complete combustion of the fuel, a flame tube (fire pipe) 1g and internal or primary chimney - riser - 1d. The fire pipeline cannot be made too short or long: on the one hand, it must heat the secondary air well, without which it is not possible to achieve complete combustion of wood pyrogases. On the other hand, in a too long fire pipeline, the gases themselves will cool down and pyrolysis will not reach the end. The entire generating stove is securely wrapped in high-quality thermal insulation with the lowest possible intrinsic heat capacity. All that is required of the primary furnace is to completely burn the fuel and release a stream of burnt hot gases from the riser.

Note: in terms of efficiency, the optimal inner diameter of the riser is 70 mm. But if you achieve the maximum power of the furnace, then the riser pipe is needed already with a diameter of 100 mm; then its shell is needed not 150, but 200 mm. In this case, the efficiency decreases slightly. Further, when describing the technology for building a furnace, dimensions are given for both cases.

The basis of the heating and storage part of the furnace is a high-capacity heat accumulator, but it is impossible to immediately release gases from the riser into it, their temperature is about 1000 degrees. There are good heat-resistant heat-storing materials, but they are very expensive, so the authors of the rocket furnace used adobe as a storage medium. Its heat capacity is huge, but it is not heat-resistant, so the secondary furnace must begin with a converter of high-grade heat into medium-grade heat, with a temperature of up to 300 degrees. In addition, part of the primary heat must be transferred to the room immediately to compensate for the current heat loss.

All these functions are performed by the furnace drum, and a 50-liter cylinder will go to it. The gases from the riser enter under the cover of the drum 2a with the hob 2b. The metal drum is thin-walled, it gives off heat well to the room. Having rolled over under the cover, the gases enter the annular lowering of the drum between its tube 2g and the metal shell of the riser insulation 2v. Under the drum 2d is also metal; metal does not let flue gases into the insulation of the primary furnace.

The fact is that inexpensive and high-quality insulating materials are porous. Let flue gases into them - their pores will be drawn in, quickly clogged with burning, and all the insulation, and with it the efficiency of the furnace, will go down the drain. Saman is also porous and is also very readily spoiled by soot. Therefore, the first task in the construction of a rocket furnace is to ensure complete tightness of the gas-smoke path.

In the drum, about 1/3 of its height from the top, the gases have already cooled down enough to give up their heat to the accumulator. From this height to the bottom, the lining (coating) of the entire furnace with adobe begins. In the drum, the flue gases give off, to the outside and into the accumulator, about half of the heat generated by the generator, but it is still too early to let them into the heat exchanger: from the drum, through its outlet 2e, the gases enter the secondary ash pan 3a with a sealed cleaning door 3b, and then into a long horizontal section of the chimney (boars) 4. From the boar, the gases that have almost completely given off heat to the adobe couch are released into a conventional external chimney.

Why do you need a secondary ash pan? The gases coming out of the drum are not very hot and chemically already neutral, because. burnt to the end. But they still contain a small amount of solid suspension; mainly - microparticles of the mineral components of wood. And the hog, as mentioned above, is made of thin metal corrugated and even laid with twists, and this whole pipe is tightly walled up, so it is impossible to clean the hogs. Let dirty gases into it - the gap will soon become overgrown with soot and the bed will have to be broken. And in the secondary ash pan, the suspension settles. Once or twice a year it will have to be raked out, but the stove will now last for many years.

So, now we know enough to start building a rocket furnace. What will we do.

Building a rocket

To begin with, we need to stock up on 5 types of lining. However, their components are either inexpensive or completely underfoot, and preparing the mixture yourself is not difficult:

5a - the most common adobe: clay, thoroughly mixed with finely chopped straw and mixed with water until the dough is thick. Because the couch did not blow or saklya, except for its weight it is not loaded with anything and is located in the room, the quality of the clay does not matter much, you can take a self-digging ravine.
5b - main heat insulator. Medium-fat oven clay in half with crushed stone from light fireclay bricks ShL. Water - until the density of the dough.
5v - heat-resistant gas-tight mechanically strong coating. Ordinary chamotte sand with furnace clay 1:1 by volume. Water - to the consistency of plasticine.
5g - self-dug sand, river or ravine, or very thin sandy loam. Washing or calcination is not needed, it is enough to sift through a sieve with a mesh of 3 mm.
5d - medium-fat oven clay.

Some explanations. It is better to introduce grass straw into adobe (meadow cereal hay), with it the strength, which we do not really need, will be lower, but the heat capacity will also be greater. As for the recipes for making adobe - choose any suitable one, this is not essential for a rocket stove. You can do it as in the video below, only we don’t need to build a house completely.

Video: making adobe

In mixture 5b, crushed stone (not sand!) And only ShL are needed. Other chamottes (SHM, ShV, etc.) are good heat accumulators themselves, it is not without reason that furnace fireboxes are made of them. But in this case, a large heat capacity will only harm. It is advisable to set more rubble ShL, if only the clay sticks it together.

The purpose of the 5v mixture is to extend the life of the furnace. All metal structures in it are steel with a wall thickness of up to 3 mm, so it is necessary that the rocket “fly” as it should. But in the flame path, thin metal will quickly burn out. However, by that time, the coating 5v will have been fired, and over time, sections of steel pipes will spontaneously be replaced by ceramic ones. True, then the stove will have to be cleaned carefully (the riser, although slowly, but still overgrown with soot), is fragile after all.

In the composition of 5g there is a rather large admixture of alumina. In building sand, it is undesirable, so they get rid of it. But alumina is just right for the lining of the riser: the heat capacity of the mixture is minimal, and, when sintered, it will also gain some strength. And raw materials are available for free.

Note: lining the riser can also be done with composition 5b, but, firstly, it costs money. Secondly, the work will take a very long time - the lining will have to be layered, with the previous layer completely drying, otherwise the coating will dry in the shell for an unreasonably long time and will definitely crack inside.

Stage 0

First you need to make a bed for the stove, see fig. - durable wooden trestle bed of the required configuration. Its frame is made of intersecting cut-in quarter lags (beam 100x100 mm) with a mesh of at least 600x900 mm under the stove and at least 600x1200 mm under the bed itself. The oblong cells of the frame are oriented along the couch. The curved edges of the frame are brought to the contour by trimming timber and boards.

Note: it is not necessary to raise the bed higher, taking into account the power of the bed lining, it will be so convenient.

The frame is covered with 40 mm grooved boards. The deck board joints should be oriented perpendicular to the long sides of the frame cells. The ends of the timber and boards that protrude beyond the desired contour of the bed are sawn in shape immediately, but its outer contour remains free for now, it will be sheathed with drywall, etc. upon completion of the furnace.

Before assembly, the parts are first impregnated with a biocide, and the entire structure is impregnated twice with a water-polymer emulsion. The frame parts are fastened at the crosshairs with diagonal pairs of 6x90 mm confirmations, and the decking boards are attached to the frame with longitudinal pairs of 6x60 mm confirmations, a pair in the board for each longitudinal log.

Then, at the place of permanent installation of the furnace, 4 mm mineral cardboard is laid on the floor with some margin for trimming along the contour, and the place over which the furnace itself will be is additionally covered with a sheet of roofing iron; it must be cut in shape in advance, taking into account the fact that the offset in front of the furnace furnace must be at least 100 mm, this is enough for a rocket.

Now the bed is moved into place. They immediately arrange an exit to the outer chimney, somewhere at the rear edge of the stove bench. Its lower edge should be 70-90 mm above level A of the furnace lining (see Fig. with the main diagram), i.e. 120-140 mm from the bedding level.

Stage 1

On the bed along the entire contour, a solid formwork is made with a height of A, according to the main scheme of the furnace (40-50 mm), with a smooth upper edge. If the bed is adjacent to the wall, the formwork is brought to the walls, and the level of its top is beaten off with a cord. Then the formwork is poured with adobe and its surface is smoothed with a polisher - a flat, smooth board with a rounded corner. If the formwork is incomplete and it is inconvenient to lead the far end along the mark, beacons from plywood strips can still be leaned against the walls; they are removed when the adobe dries up, and the cracks are covered.

Stage 2

While level A dries, let's make a drum from a cylinder, see fig. First, cut off its top so that a hole with a diameter of 200-220 mm is obtained (do not forget to bleed off the remaining gas!), It is covered with a 3-4 mm thick steel round, this will be a hob. Then a cut is made below the upper welding seam of the cylinder by 40-50 mm, this is almost a cover.

A thin sheet metal skirt is welded to the lid. Its side seam also needs to be welded, it will greatly lead the skirt away from the seam connection. Cooked at a direct current of 60 A with a 2-mm electrode. I must say that it is difficult to keep the arc in this mode, you need to be a fairly experienced welder. After mounting the skirt, holes are drilled in it for M4-M5 bolts, 3-6 holes. evenly around the circumference, 20-25 mm from the bottom edge.

The third cut of the balloon is below the bottom seam, where the tube begins to pass into the rounded bottom. The remnants of the balloon skirt do not need to be removed, so it will only hold on tighter in the stove. Now, at the bottom of the tube, we make a cutout for its exit in the form of a horizontally elongated rectangle. Its height is 70 mm and the width depends on the selected riser tube, see inset on the top right of the main diagram.

The next operation is laying the sealing gasket. For her, a braided asbestos cord is needed; untwisted shaggy twine is not good. The cord is glued with superglue or, better, with Moment. Then the glue, of course, will burn out, but the gasket will also stick to the remnants, especially since the cover will have to be removed once a year, not every year.

Having laid the gasket, immediately, as soon as the glue has seized, we put on the lid and put a load of 2-3 kg on it. Under load, we mark the holes in the tube in place. After removing the cover, drill and cut the thread. Now we insert the tube into the inverted cover and measure the depth of the drum, this is necessary to clarify the height of the riser pipe. We take apart the lid with the tube so that the gasket is not soaked through with glue and the cord does not lose elasticity, stage 2 is finished.

Stage 3

Level A will dry for a week or two, and at this time we will deal with the furnace part of the furnace. Details 1a, 1b and 1d from a professional pipe 150x150 mm; riser pipe 1d round. When marking blanks, it is necessary to observe the distance indicated on the main diagram from the rear, if viewed from the side of the blower, the edge of the bunker to the front edge of the drum. Within the specified limits, it is arbitrary, based on the location of the furnace and its design. The removal of the blower forward is also arbitrary, but, of course, within reasonable limits. It is also not necessary to push the blower under the bunker, the valve will be hot. The best option is to cut off the blower flush with the front edge of the bunker, as in the diagram.

After cutting holes for the hopper and the riser pipe, the first step is to weld the partition of the secondary air channel 1c, at a height of 30 mm from the bottom of the furnace. A solid seam is not needed, 2 tacks through the not yet welded rear end of the firebox are enough, 2-4 through the hole for the bunker and 2 through the blower. Material - sheet steel 1.5-2.5 mm.

Note: the angle of inclination of the hopper can be within 45-90 degrees from the horizontal. But at an inclination of 45 degrees, rough chips can get stuck, and if the hopper is vertical, then when reloading fuel, the hand is dangerously close to the hot drum. Therefore, a slope of 60 degrees was chosen.

The rear edge of the air baffle should be flush with the front edge of the riser tube opening. Its front edge should protrude outward by 20-25 mm. This shelf is needed so as not to litter when cleaning the stove: this design does not allow the use of a grate with a retractable ash pan, and the ash will have to be raked out with a scraper into the tray; its edge is slipped under the shelf. However, the ash rocket oven gives nothing at all.

It is better to make a blower valve with a vertical stroke in grooves with flat springs, a swing door will not provide the proper smoothness of adjusting the furnace mode, and it is more difficult to make a throttle with a rotary damper. The cover of the bunker is bent from galvanization. Complete tightness is not needed here, as long as it fits snugly.

When the furnace metal structure is ready (do not forget to weld the riser pipe and weld the rear of the flame tube!), it is lined with composition 5c with a layer of 10-12 mm, as shown in the diagram. A continuous coating is given only on the bottom. The top and sides of the blower from its front edge to the bunker are left free. Ofuterovav, put to dry.

They are dried by putting on a pole with a blower part. At first, they regularly inspect: if the coating slips, it is removed and a new portion of clay is made fatter and with less water. Do not rely on chance, this is a responsible operation!

Stage 4

The furnace part will dry out soon (2-3 days), and during this time it is quite possible to make a formwork for insulation and lay its bottom layer, because. Level A The adobe has already dried up enough to hold a little weight. The formwork design is clear from Fig. The meaning of what is marked in red will become clear later. Formwork is made of boards or plywood with a thickness of 20-25 mm. It is not necessary to firmly fasten the parts, because. the formwork will then have to be disassembled. Enough staples of thin wire on the outside at the corners; you can just wrap it with duct tape.

The formwork is put in place with the outer edge of the front bar flush with the edge of the bed and exactly along the axis of the future furnace. You need to put it carefully, with measurements, otherwise the details of the furnace will not converge later. From accidental displacement, you can fix it with thin pointed pegs by sticking them from the outside into the adobe. Beacons, on which the lower layer of insulation will be aligned - from any material, but their height must be exactly equal to that of the front formwork bar.

Stage 5

The formwork is filled with a mixture of 5b to level B. The surface of the fill is leveled with a polisher along the beacons and the front bar.

Stage 6

While the insulating pad dries up and the furnace part dries out, we make the riser shell and under the drum. With the shell, everything is simple: either a pipe segment, or we bend it from a thin (1-2 mm) sheet. Both, of course, steel. If the shell is made of sheet, the seam can be folded, a perfect circle is not necessary here.

Note: no need to make a shell below the riser pipe and then round the top of the riser with clay (see below). The stove works better if the gases roll into the downhill with a break.

Under the drum, as can be seen in the diagram, it is inclined. This is necessary for a better swirling of the flow in the secondary ash pan, see below. But if you thought: “Well, now cut an ellipse in an ellipse!”, Then in vain. With a tilt of 10 degrees, the major axis of the ellipse is as much as 304.5 mm, and we need a smaller one, 5-7 degrees.

That is, the outer diameter of the hearth blank (steel sheet 2-3 mm) is 4 mm less than the inner diameter of the drum, and the diameter of the cutout for the shell is 3 mm larger than its outer diameter, and will fall like a native. We will smear the slots along the outer and inner contours (marked with green circles in the diagram) after installing the hearth with clay 5d, bringing the sausages into the fillets with just a finger.

Stage 7

Check if level 5B is completely dry. This can be done by temporarily removing the front formwork bar. If not, we smoke (sorry, we are struggling with nicotine. We drink juice.) for a day or two.

If it is dry, we put the furnace part in the formwork, its coating is probably already dry. It is also necessary to set it exactly along the axis of the furnace, vertically and horizontally, with measurements: the drum and the shell should ultimately be concentric plus or minus 2 mm, and the top of the secondary ash pan (see below) should fit tightly under the upper edge of the drum exit. The front edge of the blower is set flush with the outer edge of the formwork and, accordingly, the bed. At the same time, it will protrude from the insulation to the thickness of the formwork board, which is just enough to smear it with adobe from the outside: the insulation used is effective, but also sensitive to air humidity.

We fix the exposed furnace part with pegs, as well as the formwork. Let them remain in the mass of isolation, it's okay. Now we put additional front shields and fill the formwork to the top with a mixture of 5b, we have reached the level D of the lining. It is no longer necessary to level completely, so as not to hook the bunker that accidentally protrudes from the solution. It is enough to iron with a polisher, leaning on the edges of the formwork, in the area where the drum is located, marked in pale gray on the formwork diagram. But here you need to align to smoothness.

Stage 8

We dry level G. This is also a responsible operation, it is impossible to rely on the microclimate of the room and ordinary drying by natural evaporation outside, the oven will come out bad and short-lived. It is necessary to create more or less stable conditions inside the drying mass.

This is done with an ordinary incandescent bulb of 40-60 watts. It (turned on, of course) is thrust into the furnace so that the flask is under the riser pipe. It is only necessary to provide for some kind of mini-tragus under the lamp socket so that the bulb does not touch the metal, otherwise the glass may burst. The top of the G level will dry out enough to withstand further operations while we make the secondary ash pan, see next.

Note: the light bulb will have to burn continuously for a total of approximately 30 days, taking into account further stages of drying. During this time, a 60-watt one will eat 24x30x0.06 \u003d 43.2 kW / h of electricity, and a 40-watt one 28.8 kW / h, which will cost 129 rubles, respectively. 60 kop. and 86 rubles. 40 kop. Whether such an expense is exorbitant is up to you. However, on either side, it is better to take a 40-watt one. Drying will last longer, but it will come out better and less sensitive to the quality of raw materials.

Stage 9

We make a secondary ash pan, or for short, just an ash pan, because. There is no primary in this oven. Here it is similar in appearance to the same unit in the American prototypes of rocket furnaces, but differs fundamentally from them.

For Americans, an almost laminar flow of gases enters the ash pan through the wide outlet of the drum, and here it twists for deeper cleaning, see next. stage of the installation scheme of the ash pan. The cause of eddies is the rotation of the Earth; more precisely, the Coriolis force caused by it, the same one that spins the water flowing from the bath.

Note: military-historical curiosities. At the end of World War II, the Nazis developed the V-3, an ultra-long-range multi-chamber cannon with a gradual acceleration of the projectile, to bombard London. They punched adits in the rock, assembled the entire system. And then it turned out that the Germans, famous for their thoroughness ... forgot to take into account the rotation of the Earth! All projectiles would have missed. So the V-3 never fired, giving rise only to panic in the Western intelligence services and a wave of myths that has come down to our days. Later, Saddam Hussein ran around with the same idea. He was going to shoot from his desert in Berlin, Paris and the same London. His specialists have already calculated everything accurately and conducted successful experiments on small models. But, again, after all, it turned out that all modern technologies are unable to create precision-accuracy gun barrels 200-300 m long. In general, work loves a fool. Even if the fool is smart and knows a lot.

The drawings of the ash pan are shown in fig. Size L is measured from point A (marked in red on the formwork diagram) along the perpendicular (red arrow in the same place) to the edge of the bed. Dimension H - the sum of the formwork heights measured in place and the exit window already cut in the drum (70 mm, if cut accurately). The bevel of the top of the ash pan back is arbitrary within reasonable limits, if only then it would not stick out from under the coating of the drum with adobe.

The immured ash pan box is made of a thin steel sheet or galvanized 0.6-1.2 mm. The front panel (face) is made of steel sheet 4-6 mm, because it can be exposed to the outside and has M5 threaded holes for attaching the cover. Cutout for chimney burrs - along the outer diameter of the existing metal corrugation; 150-180 mm is suitable for this furnace. Its location is arbitrary, you just need to observe the dimensions A, B and C on the drawing of the ash pan. All parts except for the hog are connected by welding with a continuous seam in the same mode as for the skirt of the drum cover. See below for connecting a hog.

The cover of the cleaning hole with a size of 180x180 mm is also made of steel with a thickness of 4-6 mm. The sealing gasket under it is made of mineral cardboard. Mounting bolts - from M5x8 to M5x15 with hexagonal heads. Bolts with any slots should not be used: the ash pan from the inside is overgrown with a thin layer of dense soot. The thickness of its layer will soon stabilize, but the bolts for removing the cover have to be unscrewed with a socket wrench with a knob.

Note: it is undesirable to use a hinged door with a latch - it will not provide tightness forever. You won’t notice this right away, but the appetite will increase at the stove and inside it will begin to overgrow with burning. And you have to open the ash pan for cleaning at most once a year, if the stove is heated with room-dry wood.

Stage 10

It must be assumed that while we were fiddling with the ash pan, the level G had already dried up. You can check it by temporarily removing the formwork wall, as well as level B. If you are ready, we mount the drum and ash pan.

We put the drum tube without the lid in place. We monitor the concentricity of it and the riser pipe, and also so that the exit window is in the right place, see the inset at the top right in the general diagram of the furnace and the diagram in Fig.

We put a little mixture 5b inside the drum and use a spatula to form a wedge from it with an inclination of 5-7 degrees, converging to the exit window. Now we put it in place under, with a stick we press it to the solution. We select the mortar from the cutout under the shell, otherwise you won’t put the shell, the mortar is on rubble. Next, install, slightly turning, the shell. We coat the gaps along the outer and inner contours with clay 5d, as described earlier.

Stage 11

There is no need to wait for the insulation under the bottom to dry, we immediately line the riser. The shell is filled in layers, only in 5-7 layers, with a composition of 5 g (self-dug sand or lean sandy loam). We tamp each layer with a rolling pin with a flat end and spray from a spray bottle until a crust forms. Not reaching 5-6 cm to the top, we form a cork from clay 5d. When it dries, thin cracks form between it, the pipe and the shell, but it's okay: when the furnace is fired, they will soon overgrow with soot of concrete density and strength.

Stage 12

Immediately after mounting the drum, we install an ash pan; We will cover the cleaning hole with a lid later. Its installation is simple: on the lower and large side surfaces we apply a layer of clay 5d 2-3 mm thick. We insert the ash pan into place, press and press down. Then we coat the contour of the output window of the drum (it is also the input ash pan) on the outside with the same clay 5d. Smear the sausages squeezed inside with your finger into fillets. Do not lose sight of: the edge of the hearth protrudes into the ash pan with a narrow segmental shelf, you also need to form a fillet under it. In general, the transition from the drum to the ash pan must be sealed both inside and outside (green oval on the general scheme of the furnace).

Stage 13

If the level G of the insulation is not completely dry yet, we wait for it to dry. To speed it up, the formwork can already be removed. If so, we also remove the formwork (drying continues, the light in the furnace is still on!) and apply insulation with a 5B solution to level C. We apply it without formwork, with our hands. Manually, without much accuracy, we form a semicircular vault at level B.

Stage 14

Without waiting for level C to dry, we make a formwork along the contour of the bed, as when forming level A, but already to level G. Now we specify its value according to the measurement data: there should be at least 80 mm above the upper edge of the burr hole in the ash pan. It is also undesirable to do more than 120 mm, the heat transfer of the furnace after heating will be sluggish. For brevity, we will call the new level G G1.

Stage 15

We fill the new formwork with adobe to the lower edge of the hole for burs in the ash pan, on one side. On the other hand, to the lower edge of the exit to the outer chimney. Roughly, with our hands, we level, but you need to make sure that there are no dips, and, accordingly, U-shaped sections of the hog. If you read carefully at first, you will understand that we will be able to lift the hog from the ash pan to the chimney by 10-30 mm. It is necessary for uniform heating of the couch, but sections of the hog inclined downwards are undesirable in any case.

Stage 16

We stretch the prepared corrugation to its full length. We introduce one end of it into the ash pan by 15-20 mm and flare it from the inside with a flat screwdriver through the cleaning door. We coat the outer contour of the input of the hog into the ash pan with clay 5d, as already described.

Further, the beginning of the hog, counting from the ash pan, is covered with adobe for 15-25 cm, it will keep the corrugation from being pulled out during the following operations. Now we lay the burs in a bed with bends, but not coming closer than 100 mm to any edge. As you lay, lightly press down, slightly pressing into the adobe. Having laid, we introduce the far end of the corrugation into the exit hole into the chimney and along the contour, again, coat with clay 5d.

Stage 17

We manually wrap the hogs with adobe so that there are no dips and niches under the bottom of the corrugation. Then we fill the formwork with adobe, smooth its surface with a polisher. If the adobe is thick, heavy, made of greasy clay, you can immediately form the rounding of the upper corners, see the inset at the bottom right in the main diagram. It is convenient to do this with a galvanized strip bent by a trough to a quarter of a circle. If the adobe is light, you will have to dust with a cutter or around the stone during the final finishing.

Stage 18

We put in place, already constantly, the lids of the ash pan and the drum. The lamp in the firebox burns everything, dries! We attach the drum lid with cone-head screws: tightened tightly, they will tightly compress the gasket between the lid and the tube.

Stage 19

We form the adobe coating of the drum, as already mentioned: 1/3 of its top remains free, and counting down from half its height, the adobe layer should be no thinner than 100 mm. For the rest - as God puts it on your soul, here the rocket stove will endure any design.

Stage 20

At the end of drying (this is about 2 weeks), we remove the formwork and round, if necessary, the remaining corners. The last operations before kindling - we paint the drum with heat-resistant enamel at 450 degrees (750 degrees is much more expensive), and cover the bench with acrylic varnish in 2 layers; 2nd after complete drying of the 1st.

The lacquering will not interfere with the stove's breathing, the breath will go through the bedding. But, firstly, the varnish will not allow the adobe to dust. Secondly, it will protect it from accidental moisture ingress. Thirdly, it will give the stove a noble look of glazed clay.

Stage final: rocket launch

In a dry oven, we put it in the grooves, without pushing it, the blower valve (of course, there is no light bulb there anymore), close the lid of the bunker and drown it with paper, straw, shavings, etc., all the while supplying fuel through the blower. When the couch warms up a little to the touch, add more light fuel, and load the standard fuel into the bunker. After waiting for a fairly strong hum of the stove, we cover the blower "to a whisper." That's it, the rocket stove with a stove bench is ready! Now - to the start! That is, in bed.

Finally

There is a direction in balloon-furnace creativity that is still being developed only by smokers, and then somehow: the construction of furnaces from 2 or more cylinders. And from the point of view of heat engineering, his prospects are quite serious.

The old non-autonomous diving equipment was divided into 2 classes according to the number of helmet attachment points: three-bolt with a soft suit for working at a depth of up to 60 m and heavy hard 12-bolt deep-water. The profession of a shallow-water diver had a completely official name - a three-bolt diver. In this regard, it is interesting what hidden meaning the trolls and goblins of Runet would see in the name, well, let's say: "Society of Multi-Cylinder Stove Makers"?

The private house is heated, as a rule, by an autonomous heating system. But auxiliary buildings and garages do not need to be heated around the clock, and at the same time it is absolutely impossible to do without heat, especially in winter in the garage when working with a car. You can temporarily heat a utility room or garage with an electric heater, but this solution leads to costs, since electricity is an expensive resource today.

But the option of a small solid fuel stove will be not only more economical, but also convenient, since a small hand-made potbelly stove or rocket stove is completely non-volatile, compact and mobile. The easiest stove to make is from a 50-liter propane gas cylinder, since it requires almost no seam welding.

Propane cylinders are made of thick steel, and the stove, which has a gas cylinder as a body, will burn out very, very soon. For success, you need a welding machine and the skill of a welder, since high-quality performance and good welding of seam joints will be required. Welds are continuous, not intermittent, since the design must be completely sealed, this is the main requirement for a potbelly stove.

Work and construction

About the design - it pleases with its simplicity. The number of doors is two: an ash pan, also known as a blower chamber, and a firebox. The flue pipe can be cut into the back or top of the cylinder body.

According to the principle of operation, there are also few difficulties: they put fuel on the grate, set it on fire and observe the rapid heating of the metal cylinder. The property of metals to heat up quickly and give off heat just as quickly and cool down is known, so you will have to watch the stove and periodically put firewood in the firebox. According to the efficiency of this unit, it is low, and a lot of firewood is needed. But the potbelly stove eats any solid fuel and firewood - there are no whims, this is one of the advantages of this design. the omnivorousness of bourgeois women is a well-known fact, not only logs, peat and coal are suitable, but many types of household garbage, paper and rags, waste from carpentry, etc.

Two important points: the first is that metal stoves work much more efficiently if they are lined with bricks, and you can use ordinary ceramic bricks (not refractory), and lay with clay added to the mortar. A prerequisite is the presence of an air gap of 50 - 100 mm between hot metal and brickwork.

The second point - in order to increase the heat transfer of the potbelly stove, the installation of the chimney should not be done vertically, but at an angle, increase the length of the chimney by passing it along the walls and along the ceiling. Such a broken chimney will contribute to a more complete combustion of the fuel, including the fine residue. To get an economizer, the exit of the chimney pipe from the stove body is made vertical, as it should be according to the rules of heat engineering, but then the pipe goes at an angle or in the form of broken segments. In this case, hot flue gases will not be able to fly out into the street immediately, but will give almost all the heat into the room. Of course, such a stove with a chimney will be stationary.

Work on the manufacture of a stove from a cylinder

First of all, the former propane cylinder is freed from gas residues, which are always present. Carefully unscrew the valve and direct the jet in the opposite direction. The gas flow is visible to the eye, and when it dries up, it is necessary to pour condensate out of the cylinder - an extremely unpleasant substance with a sharp, unpleasant odor. By turning the cylinder over and draining the condensate into an unnecessary container, and then disposing of it, you can get rid of the unnecessary smell. Care should be taken to ensure that condensation does not get on the floor or furniture in the house, as it will be difficult to get rid of this smell. It is best to prepare the balloon not indoors, but away from all buildings.

After the cylinder is released, it is turned over again and in a vertical position it is filled with water under the neck. Water will displace the last remnants of the gas mixture. Then the balloon is placed on its side and the water is drained. After that, the cylinder is completely safe and you can apply electric welding or gas welding to it, as well as cutting with a grinder.

Potbelly stove from a cylinder, like all other models of potbelly stoves, can be vertical and horizontal. The second is considered the simplest, traditional and "technological" in execution.

A brief technological sequence for the implementation of a horizontal potbelly stove:

Cut off the bottle cap. Tool - grinder
Make a hole for installing a chimney in the back or top of the case. The diameter of the branch pipe can be in the range of 80 - 120 mm.
For the front wall of the stove, a metal sheet of thicknesses is required. Not less than 4 mm and large enough to cut a circle with a diameter equal to that of the cylinder. For the blower, it is also an ash pan, and for the combustion chamber in a circle, two rectangular holes are cut out with a grinder or with a chisel. Cut out carefully to get the base for the doors. It is possible to seal the furnace window by laying an asbestos cord along the contour of the hole from the inside. After welding the hinges to the cut out rectangles, doors are obtained.
Reinforcing bars bent by a snake can serve as a grate. The resulting lattice is fixed to the inner surface of the cylinder by welding - this is a simplified method. It is a little more difficult, but more practical for further operation, it will be to put the grate on the corners welded to the side sections of the cylinder.
The legs for the stove are a very important element. The legs can be made from a steel pipe, the diameter is sufficient 32 - 50 mm. You can also weld the legs from the outside of the cylinder.
Lastly, a butt weld is made connecting the cylinder and the front part of the stove with holes for the furnace and blower.
The stove will be ready after connecting the chimney made of steel pipe. The first furnace will show the tightness of the structure. As a rule, with careful execution and good welding of the seams, the potbelly stove works correctly.

A vertical potbelly stove from a cylinder can be made in two ways. There are no fundamental differences with the horizontal version, except that the legs are not required for vertical installation.

The first way: more difficult in cutting and welding, but more convenient in assembly work. The beginning of work - as in the manufacture of a horizontal potbelly stove. The cylinder cover is cut off and a grate made of steel reinforcement is installed inside. Holes for the blower and combustion chambers are cut out on the side.
The second way: it is almost not necessary to cut the metal, but it is more difficult to assemble the stove. The lid is not cut off, and a grate made of reinforcement is installed through a cut hole for the furnace chamber. It is very inconvenient to work in such cramped conditions, but the stove is almost solid.

Making a rocket stove from a cylinder

Differences between bourgeois and jet stoves:

The rocket stove has higher efficiency. The reason is the special organization of the movement of hot flue gases, including carbon monoxide CO inside the furnace, in this case a cylinder. The trajectory of this movement is particularly long and complex, and the heat transfer is correspondingly higher. A rocket stove from the same cylinder of 50 liters will be able to heat a larger area compared to the bourgeois version.
The design of the rocket stove is supplemented with an internal part - a square pipe, brought out from the bottom of the steel tank. The pipe is not closed at the ends, and its outer part serves as a combustion chamber, and an open chimney channel is formed inside, through which the heated air goes into the cylinder.
The chimney is connected not at the top, but at the lower level of the structure, since the flow of hot flue gas, smoke and heated air will also go from top to bottom and fill the cylinder completely.

A rocket stove is much more complicated than a potbelly stove, it will require additional components and parts to be completed. Removing the chimney from below is more difficult, and installing a square pipe inside the cylinder and providing air in two levels, primary and secondary flows, adds to the complexity of manufacturing. it is easier to make rocket stoves from gas cylinders, since there is a ready-made sealed case made of thick steel, factory-made. Cutting is required only for making holes for connecting the chimney and under the combustion chamber door.

The furnace of a rocket furnace is carried out as for long-burning furnaces, according to the method of heating up to a “warm pipe”. The first step is to lay fast-burning light fuel (paper, straw, branches and leaves). When the chimney warms up, make a fuel bookmark from coal or firewood. Rocket stoves got their name partly because of their features - with incorrect operation (very strong traction with an open blower), you can get a jet of fire from above and a sound reminiscent of the operation of a turbine or, as they say, a rocket takeoff.

The rocket stove requires a special approach, since it needs an experimental tincture for each type of fuel. To determine the mode of the furnace, at the beginning of the process, open the blower door completely and observe. As soon as the stove enters the normal mode, it starts to “buzz”, the blower door begins to gradually close, reducing the air supply and draft. When the stove stops buzzing and “rustles”, the gap between the blower door and the body is left in a certain position.

In winter, potbelly stoves are often used. There are several ways to create a furnace from a gas cylinder, using various materials and means.

The horizontal device is used for cooking and heating small spaces. A vertical potbelly stove is installed in garages, utility rooms and small buildings.

Choice of cylinder and materials

The body for the furnace is made from an old empty gas cylinder. For effective work and high heat transfer of the structure, you need to determine the size of the tank. A small room can be heated using a five-liter cylinder. Small stoves with low power are built from a container ranging in size from 12 to 30 liters.

A gas bottle stove is a great solution for heating your garage

The industrial one (40 l) has thick walls, and the diameter of the inner surface is too small to store enough fuel. The best option is a 50-liter propane tank 85 cm high and 30 cm in diameter.

The cylinder before work is carefully prepared:

unscrew the valve and leave the container for a day to exit the remaining gas;
then turn it over and drain the condensate into an unnecessary vessel;
the balloon is filled with water, hold it for several hours;
pour out water.

The cylinder for the manufacture of the furnace must be thoroughly cleaned

The remaining propane must be removed from the tank, otherwise the cylinder may explode during welding. Additionally, you need to prepare some materials and tools:

chimney pipe;
steel sheets with a thickness of at least 3 mm;
reinforcing bars;
metal corners;
pliers, chisel and hammer;
apparatus for welding;
Sander;
drill with drills.

Doors for the furnace are made of steel, fittings are necessary to create grates. If it is not possible to make these parts for the stove from a gas cylinder with your own hands, then you can buy ready-made items in specialized stores.

In this video, more about a potbelly stove from a balloon:

The main types of oven

A vertical stove is made more often, as it takes up little space and has a neat appearance.

The horizontal design is appreciated because of the large cooking surface area. The dimensions of the ash pan and the hole for laying firewood in any device are 10 × 20 and 20 × 30 cm, respectively. Their markup is applied both to the drawings and to the cylinder itself - it is easier to cut it out. The locations of the holes are chosen arbitrarily, depending on the type of stove.

With the help of such a stove, you can heat the room and even cook food on the street.

The chimney is made of a steel pipe, cutting it into different segments and welding them together. Additionally, you need to insulate it with mineral wool and foil. You can use the finished potbelly stove indoors or outdoors. If the stove is used for outdoor cooking, then it is enough to attach a low pipe to let the smoke out.

Vertical potbelly stove

To create a vertical furnace from a propane cylinder, it is placed vertically. It is necessary to cut off the neck, draw the markings of the ash pan, chimney and firebox with a marker. Holes are cut with a grinder or cutter. Reinforcing bars are cut in equal pieces, forming grates. They are welded to the body in parallel rows or with a snake. Hinges for doors are attached, doors are cut out of steel sheet or cast iron. A sliding mechanism or heck is welded to them.

The hob is necessary if the stove will cook food or heat water. To create it, you need to cut out a part of a suitable size from metal and weld it to the top of the cylinder. After that, all joints and seams are checked for tightness and strength, cleaned and polished.

The vertical oven is more popular as it takes up less space

The hole for the chimney should be located at the top of the cylinder or on the side, sometimes the pipe passes through the central opening. In the side part, the knee is first attached, then the chimney itself. Smoke and combustion products come out through the chimney. A metal stand or strong legs are attached to the bottom of the cylinder. Additionally, you can prepare the foundation for the potbelly stove.

Horizontal design

The first step is to create a solid base. It is made of metal, the legs are welded, and then the body of the finished stove. A marker on the cylinder marks the places of the blower, chimney and fuel holes. Openings are cut with a chisel, grinder or cutter. A drill drills holes in the bottom of the case. An ash box is attached from above, it is made of strong heat-resistant metal. A damper is welded to the opening, which will act as a blower.

The door is prepared from the cut out part of the cylinder. It must be scalded and attached to the body with loops. Although you can make a cast-iron door with a latch and weld it. The chimney should exit from the top rear of the potbelly stove. A steel sheet is laid and fixed on top of the body to create a flat hob.

For a horizontal stove, you will need more space - this is its main disadvantage.

You can buy ready-made burners in the store, cut a hole in the steel for them and fix them. So you can make a stove from a horizontal gas cylinder, but it takes up a lot of space.

When making a furnace from a cylinder with your own hands, you need to take into account several nuances. It is necessary to adhere to the basic recommendations and rules of work:

the chimney should consist of broken sections, since all the heat will quickly leave through a short pipe;
fuel can be any - coal, firewood, wood waste, household waste;
the efficiency increases with the length of the chimney, only straight and downward sections must be avoided;
heat transfer increases if another container, but smaller, is placed inside the main body. So you can increase the draft and prevent smoke from entering the room.

At home, you can make a stove from a gas cylinder for heating small rooms. This is an economical design that allows you to heat a small country house or cook food quickly in a few hours.

More about the wood-burning stove from a gas cylinder:

Modification of the gas cylinder - one of the easiest ways making a potbelly stove with your own hands. In addition, an empty propane vessel can be found in many private houses or cottages. If you have a welding machine, you can easily give it a second life.

A photo

Blueprints

Horizontal potbelly stove: instructions

Potbelly stove is easy to make yourself. It takes up little space, is unpretentious to fuel, you can cook on it. But it is important to remember that such a furnace often causes fires. Therefore, it must be installed in a safe place and surrounded by non-combustible materials.

Instruments

Before starting work, you need to stock up on the necessary tools and materials:

Empty gas bottle.
Chimney pipe.
Metal sheets (from 3 mm).
Iron bars (reinforcement).
Metal corners or cuttings of a water pipe.
Pipe branch.
Hinges, door handles.
Hammer.
Chisel.
Pliers.
Welding.
Apparatus for grinding.
Drill with a set of drills.
Marker.

Choosing a balloon

For efficient heating need to choose the right size.

A cylinder with a capacity of 5 liters is not enough even for the smallest room. 12 and 27-liter vessels can be used for heating, but in winter the heat capacity of such a stove will not be enough even for a garage. The most optimal is the capacity of 50 liters. Most often propane is transported in these. It has standard dimensions: 30 cm in diameter, 85 cm in height.

If a 40-liter vessel is taken as the basis of the oven, it is important to remember that it has thicker walls and a smaller diameter. This is important because these parameters affect the rate of heating and heat retention.

Preparatory work

There are a number of preparatory activities required so that gas residues do not explode during processing. The scheme of the gas elimination procedure is as follows:

Open the valve, leave the vessel overnight outside for the gas to escape.
Turn the open cylinder over a special container so that condensate can drain there. It has a strong unpleasant odor, so the container with the liquid should be sealed and discarded.
Fill the vessel with water to the top, and then let it drain.
The balloon is now safe to use.

Read also: Potbelly stove with water circuit

Making a potbelly stove

With horizontal orientation furnace, the bottom of the cylinder serves as the back wall, and a furnace door is made from the lid. Below is a step by step guide:

Using a grinder, cut many small holes on the side surface (or you can just cut a strip of iron). This is necessary so that the unburned fuel residues are poured into the ash chamber.
According to the drawings, make a box for collecting ash from an iron sheet. Its length should be at least 80 cm. Weld a small door to the front. You can buy it in the store or make it yourself.
Weld the ash pan to the furnace body.
Cut a hole in the end of the cylinder for the firebox. Make a door from a cut piece (or buy a finished one), fix it with hinges.
Cut a hole for the chimney (diameter should be between 100 and 150 mm). Twist the pipe itself from a metal sheet. Attach it to the body of the furnace using a special pipe. This element will help change the direction of the chimney, thereby reducing heat loss.
Make grates from reinforcement. In order not to have to weld the grate, iron rods can be bent in the manner of a snake - then pieces of fuel will not slip through the cracks. In addition, in the manufacture of grate, it is important to consider the type of future fuel. Burning with charcoal or wood chips requires narrower gaps than heating with wood.
Attach grates inside the balloon.
From metal corners or scraps of a water pipe, make legs, and then weld them to the main part. The main rule is sustainability. A wobbly stove can tip over and start a fire.

Making doors

A few additional words about the manufacture of doors.

It is most convenient to make a door from a cut piece of metal. So it will fit snugly to the body, which will avoid smoke leakage.
The door must be hung on small hinges. They can also be made with your own hands from several links of a thick metal chain.
From the opposite end, attach a turning handle or valve.
It is recommended to attach an asbestos-cement cord along the edge of the door for sealing.

Read also: We make a stove from a barrel

Optional Details

There are several ways to increase the efficiency of a potbelly stove. They are presented in the table.

way to increase efficiency.	Method
Insulate the chimney.	The flue pipe can not be directed vertically upwards, but bent. So hot air stays longer in the room, which will have a positive effect on heat transfer.
Increase the area of metal contact with air.	To do this, the so-called "wings" are welded to the furnace - metal strips on both sides of the furnace.
Build a tile.	Weld an additional metal sheet above the combustion chamber. It will be possible to put a kettle or a saucepan on it. And if you improve the design with the help of a cover consisting of several circles, it will be possible to control the degree of heating.
Make a brick coat	Brickwork around the stove will increase the heat transfer time, help to heat the room more efficiently. Minus - so the potbelly stove will lose its nominal mobility. But it is not easy to move a heavy structure with a pipe to another place.
Working off.	If you moisten firewood with used oil, it will increase the burning time by 30%. In this way, an unprecedented heat capacity can be achieved.

Water circuit

Another way to increase heat transfer is to install on the chimney water sleeve. Making it is easy:

On the chimney section, install a water circuit with two nozzles.
One of them will receive cold water. It will heat up from the chimney, and then flow back through the second hole.
If you hold the pipe further, install a pair of radiators, then with the help of one potbelly stove it will be possible to heat the entire room.
At the same time, it is better to provide water exchange with the help of a circulation pump.

Additional heat exchanger

An additional one can be attached to the main body. It should be set as vertical branch pipe. This design will increase traction, ensure smooth long-term combustion, and also save the room from smoke, and significantly improve heat transfer.

When using a second cylinder, the chimney pipe should be welded exactly to the top of the structure.

Grids

grate - required element stove designs. It helps to reduce the area of contact between the burning fuel and the furnace walls. In addition, it helps to more thoroughly filter out unburnt residues from coals.

Heating appliances are used not only in residential, but also in industrial premises. There are a great many modifications of them, because in the workshops the conditions are usually not intricate. Therefore, they install everything that is affordable and economical - from bourgeois to technically well-thought-out heating systems.
Today we offer for consideration one of the most interesting models of furnaces. A rocket stove or jet stove is fundamentally different from others by a high degree of heating and convection of the body, which is made either of bricks (stone stove) or of thick-walled metal. This heater is equipped with a water circuit, connected to radiators and an almost complete economical heating system is obtained.
The homemade author suggests making our version of a jet furnace from an empty propane cylinder. A small upgrade, a minimum of parts and in front of you is a great option for a heating furnace for a production workshop!

The principle of operation of the furnace

The furnace consists of a firebox, a heated container and a chimney. The firebox is made in the form of a bent pipe, in which firewood is burned in its lower part. Hot air rises through a vertical pipe located in the center of the heated container, which in our case is made from a gas cylinder. Rising up, hot air heats the walls of the container, and gradually cooling down, it exits from the bottom through the chimney, which creates air convection and draft in the furnace.

Materials:

Propane gas cylinder;
Square pipe welded from paired corners;
Metal corner 50x50x5 mm;
Round chimney pipe with swivel elbows;
Auxiliary metal elements: plates, trimming corners, plugs.

Instruments:

For cutting metal: an inverter plasma cutter or a grinder with a cleaning and cutting disc;
Welding machine;
Metal right corner, tape measure, marker for marking;
Bubble level, hammer, metal brush.

Making a rocket stove

Before you get to work, you must remember that gas cylinders are extremely flammable and explosive. They must be thoroughly rinsed with water, settled for a while in a cylinder, since even small residues of liquefied gas during cutting can lead to an explosion of the container.

Cooking balloon

A household propane cylinder consists of a neck, a shell and a bottom. It is usually placed vertically so that the shut-off valve remains in the most visible place in the center of the cylinder. You need to get rid of it by lightly tapping it with a hammer.

Having unscrewed the fitting with an open-end wrench, we fill the cylinder with water to wash off the remnants of liquefied gas. We leave the water to stand for a while, and then carefully overturning the container, drain it. Even after such measures, we carefully transfer the balloon to the treatment site. Using a plasma cutter, cut off the bottom of the balloon.

We cut the pipes and scald the firebox

The next step is to cut metal corners according to the size of the loading chamber, furnace and air duct. We cut them with a grinder or a plasma cutter, and boil each of them along the ribs.
The connections will be located at different angles. The dimensions of these elements are as follows:

Vertical air duct - 900 mm;
Horizontal firebox - 500 mm;
Feeder or loading chamber - 400 mm.

The firebox with the air duct are connected perpendicularly. We cut the ends of these pipes at a mustache at 45 degrees, and boil the pipes from all sides. Since the metal during the welding process heats up over 1500 degrees Celsius, it can lead. Therefore, it will not be superfluous to check the accuracy of the connection with a metal corner.

The location of the loading chamber will be inclined, so the feeder nozzle must be cut at an angle of less than 45 degrees. We expose it on the fuel pipe a few centimeters from the edge of the firebox, where the ash pan will subsequently be located. According to the marking of the pipe section, we make a slot at the junction of the elements, and boil it in place.

The firebox must be level and securely fastened. A small segment of the corner from which the pipes were made will serve as a support for him. We cut it exactly to size, and put it on the bottom of the cylinder, checking the identity of the straight line between the planes of the cylinder with a metal corner.

We boil the firebox, reinforcing the vertical pipe of the duct with metal plates or corners. We mark out a seat for it on the wall of the cylinder, and make a slot with a plasma or a grinder. The more accurate the cut out is, the easier it is to scald it later.

We expose the firebox so that the vertical pipe inside the cylinder is located strictly in the center. We weld the bottom and the nozzle of the furnace with a welding machine.

An ordinary bolt or similar piece of metal will help to plug the hole on the top of the cylinder. We insert it into the hole, and weld it to the balloon. You can clean the seam with a grinding disc and a grinder.

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