Wooden floor in a private house. Do-it-yourself wooden flooring: wooden flooring designs, do-it-yourself installation

From the author: Hi all! As you know, all people are divided into two types - those who like to live in apartments and lovers of private houses. So, my friend Ivan belongs to the second, for which he paid the price. When he and his wife bought a living space for themselves, he did not understand anything about repairs, but the building needed improvement, and there was no money for professional builders.

I had to learn a lot, but now Ivan can do all the construction work and even lay the floors in a private house with his own hands. He learned most of the useful information from his best friend (that is, me). If you also want to equip your home on your own and save on the wages of workers, then you have come to the right place. Let's get started.

During the construction of housing, the question always arises: “Which flooring is better to do?”. After all, under any circumstances, it must meet such requirements as the creation of healthy living conditions and safe operation. The floor must above all be: level, durable, hygienic and non-slip. There are several types of floor coverings:

• the favorite of residents of private sectors is considered to be a wooden floor, since wood is not only an environmentally friendly material, but also, in comparison with concrete, it is warm;
• for those who prefer strength to heat, concrete floors are suitable;
• floating and bulk floors are just gaining their popularity, but I think that over time they will eclipse even wooden ones, because their installation takes only 1 day.

Before choosing one of these coatings, I recommend getting to know each one better.

Several ways to lay a wooden floor

It is really possible to build a wooden floor even without the help of specialists, for this it is enough to familiarize yourself with the technology of laying it on different types of bases. The wooden covering happens in one and two layers (with a subfloor). If we talk about the advantages of wood flooring, we would like to note environmental friendliness and ease of installation. Aesthetically pleasing, practical and durable, wood flooring can brighten up any home.

Installation of covering on supporting pillars

The second name for this installation is "floating floor". This type of coating is produced mainly when the connection of walls with lags is impossible. The work takes place according to the following scheme:

Source: http://otdelkaexp.ru

1. We start with the formation of holes in the underground, in which we will install brick supports in the future. We cover the bottom with a 20-centimeter layer of loose material, for example, gravel, sand or crushed stone, fill it with water and carefully tamp everything.
2. On the compacted material, we begin laying brick supports (it is advisable to use red brick). There is a second option: it is necessary to install reinforcement in the arranged formwork and pour the composition of cement and gravel. If you decide to form supports in the second way, then the section should be 50 * 50 cm. Check the height with a level and adjust if necessary.
3. From above, we introduce anchors or threaded studs into the poles to a depth of 15 cm (beams will be attached to them). In a small dwelling, the floor on the supporting pillars can be made in almost the same way as in a spacious one. The only difference is that the pillars are placed only around the perimeter of the room and the beams are chosen more massively.
4. After completing the preparation of the pillars, we lay 3-4 layers of roofing material on them. It will act as a waterproofing.
5. We make holes in the beams for mounting studs.
6. We put logs or beams on our roofing material, hook them onto studs and adjust them with a laser or water level. After laying the base, we fix the lining to the logs with nails. We also need to fix the logs on the poles with the help of nuts and washers.
7. We cut off the excess height of the studs using a grinder.
8. We fill the surface of the underground with expanded clay sand, a layer of 20 cm. I recommend using expanded clay, as it perfectly insulates the floors.

Source: http://izolexpert.ru

If you still decide to make two-layer floors, then it is necessary to immediately lay the floorboards on the beams, and completely fill the underground with expanded clay sand, while leaving no more than 10 cm between the layers.

Installation of a rough coating

The draft floor can be mounted in several ways. The method is selected depending on the insulation material used in the work. If either slag, then the coating must be made continuous, from floorboards that are attached to the lower cut of the beams.

1. We cover all the cracks with clay, and after it dries, we pour insulation into the cells.
2. We attach a layer of vapor barrier film to the bottom boards and beams and lay thin plywood.
3. Next, we put the insulation and again cover everything with a vapor barrier, fix it to the beams with brackets.
4. We fasten logs of 10 * 3 cm to the beams, which will become a support for thick plywood or floorboards.

How to make a draft floor you can see clearly in the video:

Installation of wood flooring on the ground

Installation of wooden coverings can be carried out not only on support pillars, but also on the ground. However, the scheme of work here will look different:

1. We thoroughly tamp the soil and pour a pillow 20 cm thick on it from gravel, crushed stone or sand.
2. We compact the bulk material and lay roofing material or any other material for waterproofing on it. The entrance to the walls must be at least 10 cm.
3. On top of the waterproofing layer, we put a support for the beams on the mortar (concrete blocks or bricks can be used). The distance between the beams must be at least 60 cm so that insulation can be placed there.
4. In the free gaps between the beams we lay insulation (polystyrene, mineral wool, etc.).
5. We install wooden beams on supports made of blocks or bricks, level them and fix them with a corner.
6. Whatever coating you choose, it is better to additionally insulate the surface with mineral wool slabs.
7. We cover the insulation with a vapor barrier film and lay the floorboards, fixing with nails.
8. In order for the floor to be ventilated, we leave gaps of 1-1.5 cm in size near all walls.

Installing a wooden floor on a concrete base

If a screed acts as a base under a wooden covering, you can lay logs directly on it. When the floor needs to be raised by 10-20 cm, it is laid on threaded studs. Do not try to save on lags - the reliability of the entire coating and the duration of its operation depend on them.

I’ll immediately note such a moment - there must be a rough coating on a concrete base. But, this should not scare you anymore, because we already figured it out earlier. So, the installation is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. We mark the placement of the lag (the distance between them will be 60 cm).
2. On the lines broken off by color, we put points at intervals of 30-40 cm and in these places we make holes into which we insert the fixing pins necessary to hold the beams, in which we will also make cuts.
3. Use the level to adjust the horizontal.
4. We drive the nuts twisted on the studs into the drilled holes. If there is an excess part, you can cut it off with a grinder.
5. Now you can mount the subfloor (see above) and the decorative coating.

Installing the lag on the screed

It is not at all difficult to install logs on a concrete screed, especially if you have all the necessary equipment.

It's obvious that flooring process- one of the most serious and key stages of repair work, which requires maximum concentration and effort. Regardless of the choice of material, the floor will serve for a long time and effectively only in case of strict adherence to building technologies, rules and regulations.

Today we will talk about the construction of wooden floor structures in the premises of the first floor of a private house, using the standard method.

The construction of the structure will take place in five main stages

• installation of beams and log;
• arrangement of a waterproofing system;
• implementation of a draft version of the floor;
• implementation of the final version of the floor;
• flooring device.

Most often, the entire structure is installed on a number of prepared support posts or beams (concrete or brick). The empty space that remains between the ground and the floor plane is called the underground. This space should be ideally ventilated, only in this case the wood will remain in its optimal form for the maximum possible amount of time.

Important nuance. Before we start installation of wooden floor structures on the ground, you should find out - how close to the surface of the earth are groundwater. If they flow high enough, seriously moistening the soil, serious waterproofing of the entire system will be required. You will also have to arrange high-quality ventilation of the underground.

It should be remembered that the floors are subject to constant mechanical stress, in this regard, the wooden flooring should be chosen with great care.

In this case, the following points must be taken into account

• wood moisture content should be 12 percent. The durability of the material largely depends on this indicator;
• material with cracks or chips is a bad option. In this case, the likelihood of repair work in the near future is very high;
• wooden flooring should be treated with one of the types of reliable antiseptic, to increase the level of fire resistance and prevent pathogenic phenomena (fungus, etc.);
• the best solution would be to choose coniferous types of wood: fir, larch, pine, cedar. Among hardwoods, preference should be given to ash or oak.

The durability of wooden floors and the peculiarities of the microclimate in the premises of the house not least depend on the condition of the underground - ideally it should be dry and well ventilated. In order to equip an effective underground ventilation system, you will need to make the required number of holes around the perimeter of the plinths. It is worth foreseeing the likelihood of a snowy winter and removing several ventilation pipes with visors from the underground. You can increase the level of air circulation with the help of a window fan (or several). Do not forget about the possibility of penetration into the underground of small rodents - it will not be superfluous to install cellular gratings (cell up to 8 millimeters).

Most varieties of wooden floors in private houses are laid on a prepared system of support beams laid in the base of the foundation. It happens that the building construction project did not provide for the presence of support beams - in this case, support columns (concrete or brick) will be required.

If the laying of the beams took place together with the foundation, the required number of support posts will have to be made in a separate order.

It is important to correctly select the points for installing supports. For this purpose, a mark must be made on each of the embedded beams, and then the ropes must be pulled along the entire subfloor. Then we repeat the same procedure along the width. At the points where the ropes (cords) will intersect, the corners of the support posts should be located.

It is important to correctly determine the number of supports so that the interval between them is in the range from 70 centimeters to one meter.

Remember, the greater the thickness of the log or beams, the smaller the interval when installing supports. The size of each recess for the support post must be corresponding to the sides of the support. During the installation of supports, do not forget - the correct choice of its section will depend on the height of the column. The higher the support from ground level, the more difficult it is to ensure its stability.

So, at the designated points, we dig holes with a depth of 40 to 60 centimeters and lay the supports. In the variant with brick columns of small height (up to 25 centimeters), laying can be done in “one and a half” bricks, in the case of high supports, we work in 2 bricks. In order to increase the reliability of the support system, it is possible to fill the foundation under their foundations. Bricks are fixed with cement mortar and waterproofed.

The option with concrete columns is considered more reliable due to the use of reinforcement. The parameters of each side of the concrete column can vary from 40 to 50 centimeters, depending on the height of the support itself.

In order for the floor surface to be perfectly flat, it is important to monitor the observance of the horizon even at the stage of installing the supports. Therefore, we recommend that you regularly check their plane using the building level.

The next step is to remove the top layer of earth around the entire perimeter of the subfloor, level the surface, then alternately backfill the gravel and sand layers. Each of them must be watered and gently tamped. Ramming can be done using a vibrating plate or a homemade improvised tool.

So, three or four layers of waterproofing material should be laid on top of the supports. Next, we begin the installation of beams or logs, securely fixing them in their places. In principle, the logs can be laid directly on the supports, but if we want the floor to be really strong, we first need to lay the required number of beams. In the case when the log or beam is shorter than necessary, the place of their junction should be laid on the support, connected to each other by the “lock” method and secured using self-tapping screws.

In order to securely fix the logs and beams on the tops of the support pillars, we need an appropriate amount of metal corners. Fastening of the corners to the supports is carried out with the help of dowels, and for fastening to wooden surfaces it is better to use self-tapping screws.

Each beam and log should be carefully treated with an antiseptic composition.

If you suddenly find that the horizon for the supporting pillars is imperfectly maintained, it's not scary. If necessary, a special gasket or wedge can be placed under any of the sagging beams.

About single layer wooden field

Among the main methods of arranging a wooden floor in a country cottage, we first of all single out single-layer and two-layer options. Varieties of single-layer floors, as a rule, are performed during the construction and repair of country houses. Year-round use of such structures is possible only in conditions of sufficiently warm regions. If you need floors that will be warm all year round, it is better to choose the "double insulated" option.

So, to equip a single-layer wooden floor, we need to lay the log on the support pillars and fasten them. In order to make logs, we apply the required number of wooden bars measuring fifty by fifty millimeters. The next step is laying tongue-and-groove boards (thickness from 40 to 50 millimeters) and fastening them to the logs - for this we will use self-tapping screws or nails.

Speaking of flooring for a single wooden floor, we advise you to opt for linoleum or simple staining.

In some cases, in order to make the entire structure more durable, the beams are first laid on the supports, and only then comes the turn of the lag. A few more words about the support beams. The ideal material for manufacturing, perhaps, can be considered wooden beams, the thickness of which is 10 by 10 or 12 by 12 centimeters.

About the draft version of the two-layer floor

So, as mentioned above, if you plan to operate the cottage all year round, you will have to deal with the installation of a two-layer and insulated floor structure. Of course, in doing so, you will spend much more effort, time and money, but the level of return from such work will be completely different.

In this case, the sequence of our actions will be as follows

• we install the log on the system of support pillars, we carry out the fastening using self-tapping screws and metal corners;
• in each of the gaps, from the log to the log, a moisture-resistant plywood panel should be laid, so that each of its edges lies on the protruding section of the support column;
• all remaining free space must be filled with thermal insulation (clay with sawdust, glass wool, foam plastic, mineral wool);
• it's time to lay the subfloor. As a material, it is best to take the required number of boards, the thickness of which can be 15-50 millimeters. It is very important to carry out the correct processing of the boards in order to ensure that they fit as closely as possible to each other. Fixing the lag and boards is made using self-tapping screws.

An important nuance: the edges of the plank floor should be at least 15 millimeters from each of the walls. This is necessary to ensure ventilation and prevent possible swelling of the floor due to seasonal swelling of the wood.

Next, we proceed to laying layers of heat and waterproofing. We close the draft floors with polyethylene membranes (thickness - two hundred microns) and an additional layer of insulation (for example, foamed polyethylene). Each membrane (film) must be overlapped, its edges are glued with tape.

About laying a finishing floor

For the installation of finishing floor options, grooved or parquet boards, as well as plywood panels, are best suited. The latter, as a rule, are laid on top of the insulation and fastened with self-tapping screws diagonally and along the entire perimeter. Then the actual installation of the flooring begins.

About the grooved board option

The undoubted advantage of this material is that the floors made of grooved boards look aesthetically pleasing even without additional floor coverings - you just need to carefully apply the required number of layers of varnish or paint.

We will lay the tongue and groove board in the following sequence

• before the material goes into work, it must “lie down” in the room for 2-3 days, thus “getting used” to the microclimate of a particular room;
• it is necessary to indent from each wall at a distance of 15 millimeters in order to create a gap for ventilation and prevent floor blisters;
• the laying of the boards of the finishing floors occurs perpendicular to the boards of the rough floors. We start by laying the first row, clearly keeping the line - with spikes towards the wall. We fix each board using self-tapping screws, which must be screwed in such a way that the plinth closes them close to the wall. From opposite sides, screwing the screws into the grooves should occur at an angle of 45 degrees. The gaps between the edge boards and the walls are closed with special wooden spacers.

In cases where the floorboards are shorter than the length of the room, they are usually laid "in a row". Thus, an increase in the level of floor strength is ensured. The length of each screw should be several times the thickness of the boards. Holes for the entry of self-tapping screws should be prepared in advance, otherwise the board may be damaged (chip, crack, etc.).

Laying the next row of material (and each subsequent one) is carried out according to the principle "thorns - in the grooves of the boards of the previous row". We seal the boards with a special rubber hammer, then fasten them with self-tapping screws from the reverse sides into the grooves.

About the option with parquet board

The arrangement of finishing floors from massive parquet boards remains one of the most popular and sought-after options in private homes.

Several features of the optimal implementation of this process of laying parquet boards

• fastening of massive parquet boards by means of self-tapping screws can be done only from those sides where the spikes are located;
• the parquet board is laid out exclusively "in a row";
• in the version using a plywood base, it is recommended to first fix the boards “on glue”, and only then fasten them with self-tapping screws;
• the diagonal way of laying the parquet board makes it possible to visually enlarge the room.

Finally

Each of the wooden elements included in the floor structure must be treated with antiseptic and flame retardant compounds. Such processing will help to increase the period of trouble-free use of the structure. The work on laying wooden floors in the house can be considered finally completed after the application of the final floor coverings.

Video: Laying a wooden floor

When building a house is started, the question of floors arises. primarily, since both the strength of the coating and the preservation of heat in the rooms, and hence the health of the residents, will depend on them. Flooring in a private house can be done in several ways, but you need to consider each of them in order to evaluate the pros and cons of each option.

• The most popular and comfortable floor for the house has always been considered wooden, since wood, unlike concrete, is a warm material in itself.
• Concrete flooring is more durable than wood, but requires good insulation, so they are often combined with a wooden floor.
• Raised or floating floors were not so popular with homeowners in the past, but more and more people are turning to this option recently, as it is easy to set up and can be done in literally one day.

Whichever gender is chosen, it has specific features of your device, depending on the design of the house, on the area on which it should be laid, the difficulties and nuances of installation, and even on the financial capabilities of homeowners.

In order for the floor in a private house to be warm, and it was pleasant to walk on it, each of its types requires insulation, so it is necessarily included in the general arrangement plan.

Wooden floors can be made in many ways, but they are always fixed to the logs, which are made from beams laid on a concrete base, support pillars, or embedded in the walls of the house. The latter option is possible only in a room with a small area, for example, a narrow corridor or a small hallway.

In addition, wooden floors are divided into single-layer and two-layer, i.e. with subfloor.

Floors on pillars

Floors on supporting pillars are made in cases where it is not possible to connect the logs to the walls of the house or this is not enough for the strength of the overall coverage. The lag system, arranged only on supporting pillars, is called "floating".

"Floating" floor on supporting pillars

Floors according to such a system are arranged as follows:

1. The first thing to do is to dig holes in the underground space of the house to install brick pillars. Such mini-pits are marked at a distance of 70-100 centimeters from each other. The depth of the pits should be at least fifty centimeters. The size of the section will depend on the height of the supports being erected, the higher the column should be, the greater its width and thickness.
2. Crushed stone, gravel or sand, at least twenty centimeters thick, is poured into the bottom of the dug pits, then it is filled with water and carefully compacted. The better the bottom is rammed, the more reliable the support for the lag system will be, so this process must be carried out in good faith.
3. Red brick pillars are laid on a compacted pillow, or formwork is arranged, reinforcement is installed, and a cement-gravel mixture is poured. If the pillars are made of concrete, then their size should be at least 40 × 40, and preferably 50 × 50 cm in cross section. The erected pillars are leveled, and, if necessary, their height is adjusted.
4. On top of the pillars, to a depth of 10-15 centimeters, threaded studs are embedded or anchors are installed, on which floor beams will subsequently be fixed.
5. It should be noted that if the building or room has a small area, then the supporting pillars can be arranged only along the perimeter of the future premises, but in this case massive beams must be laid on them.
6. After the poles are ready, a waterproofing material is laid on their upper part. It is better if it is three ÷ four layers of roofing material.
7. Holes are drilled in the beams through which the mounting studs will pass.
8. Beams made of timber or logs are laid on the waterproofing, they are put on studs and leveled, leveled with wooden lining boards. When the floor base is exposed, it is better to fix the lining to the bars with nails, and the bars themselves also need to be fixed by screwing them to the posts with nuts through a wide washer. If the studs are too high, it is cut off with a grinder.
9. It is best to cover the surface of the underground with expanded clay, with a layer of 15-20 centimeters - it will well contain moisture that can come from the ground, and additionally insulate the floors.
10. In order for the floor arranged in this way to be warm, it is better to make it two-layer, especially since in this option all conditions have been created for this. If it is planned to immediately lay the floorboard on the beams, then the underground must be completely filled with expanded clay, leaving a distance of no more than ten centimeters between it and the wooden covering.

Draft floor

The draft floor can be arranged in several ways. The choice of a particular method will depend on the material of insulation.

• If slag or expanded clay is used as a heater, then the subfloor is made solid, from boards that are nailed to the lower cut of the beams. The gaps between the boards are smeared with clay, diluted to a not very thick state. After the clay dries, insulation can be poured into the cells, on top of which a vapor barrier film is laid.
• If the floors are insulated with mineral wool, then the boards are nailed to the underside of the beams at a distance of 50 centimeters from each other.

• A vapor barrier is attached to the beams and to the bottom boards and thin plywood is laid. A heater is laid on it, which is also covered with a vapor barrier on top, attached to the beams with a stapler and staples.

• Then logs-bars measuring 10 × 3 centimeters are nailed onto the beams, on which floorboards or thick plywood will be laid.

Video: a good example of subfloor installation

Wooden floor on the ground

Arrange a wooden floor and on the ground. There is a scheme for this. focusing on which you can make a work plan.

• The soil in the underground must be well tamped, and a pillow of sand, gravel or crushed stone of medium fraction, 20 to 40 centimeters thick, should be placed on it, and then tamped again.
• Rigid waterproofing, for example, roofing material, is laid on a compacted pillow. If desired, under it, you can, for greater strength, lay a reinforcing mesh. Waterproofing should be at least 10 centimeters on the walls.
• For waterproofing, bricks or concrete blocks are placed on the mortar, which will subsequently become a support for the beams. The supports are placed in such a way that the beams are at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other (the standard width of the insulation).
• The first layer of insulation is laid around the bricks - it can be polystyrene 50 ÷ 100 mm or mineral wool.
• On bricks, and better - on concrete blocks, wooden beams are installed, leveled, and fixed with a corner.
• Between the laid beams, for greater insulation, you can additionally lay mineral wool slabs.
• On top of the heater, cash agi fix the vapor barrier film.
• Then the floorboard is laid, which is fixed with carnations, carefully driven into its side part.
• The board is laid at a distance one and a half centimeters from the wall to provide ventilation.

Wooden floor on concrete screed

When laying the floor on the concrete screed or slab, logs can be laid directly on concrete or, if you need to raise the floors to a small height of 10-20 centimeters, on threaded studs.

When laying floors on concrete, you can not save on logs - they must be massive enough, then the floors will be reliable and non-creaky.

It should be noted right away that with such a floor device, it is imperative to make it two-layer, i.e. with the subfloor described above, otherwise it will be very cold.

• First, a preliminary marking of the location of the lag is made on the concrete pavement. They should be installed at a distance of 60 centimeters, taking into account future insulation. The markup is done by beating the line with color.
• Further, marks are made on the broken lines at a distance of 30-40 centimeters.
• At these points, holes are drilled into which studs with clamps are installed, located approximately at the same height from the floor - they will hold the beams.
• In the beams themselves, at a measured distance corresponding to the location of the studs embedded in the concrete surface, holes are drilled, after which the beam is put on the studs.
• Then, using a level, the clamps are twisted in one direction or the other, bringing all the beams to the ideal horizontal, controlling its level.
• Nuts are screwed on top of the studs, driving them into the prepared recess, and the excess part of the studs is cut off with a grinder.
• The next steps are the installation of a subfloor, insulation and flooring of a clean floor.

Fastening the log directly to the screed

Arrange logs on the concrete floor not difficult at all, and you can do it yourself, having the right tools.

• Stripes are beaten off on the concrete surface, also at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other, but from the wall they should be at a distance of the thickness of the insulation (150-200 mm).
• Further, with the help of anchor fastening, the logs are securely installed on the concrete floor. At the same time, the bars can be of any height - this will depend on the desire of the owner of the house and on the ability to raise the floors to the desired height.
• Then, it would be nice to lay a thin insulation, for example, foamed polyethylene, which can be fixed to the logs with staples.
• All over the wall strips cut off from mineral wool mats are installed around the perimeter of the room.
• Next, on the covered polyethylene are laid insulation boards material or expanded clay of fine or medium fraction is poured.

• From above, be sure to close the insulation with a vapor barrier film.

• Next, a floorboard or thick plywood is laid, and a decorative coating can also be laid on top.

Concrete floor

The concrete floor is also arranged in different ways, but, in general, they are similar in technology, with minor deviations or additions.

Concrete coating is mainly done in houses with concrete or brick walls, and it is started after the walls are removed and the roof is covered.

• If necessary, the top layer of soil is selected in order to arrange a sand cushion in its place, which should be 10-15 centimeters. It must be well tamped, pouring water.
• The next layer is crushed stone of the middle fraction, which also needs to be compacted. The thickness of its backfill should be at least 10 centimeters.
• Next, arrange a rough screed. It can be made insulated by adding expanded clay or foam plastic chips to the solution. In addition, the solution in this case can be kneaded not on sand, but on gravel. The screed is leveled and left to harden.
• On the finished frozen rough screed, you need to spread waterproofing, which should be 15-20 centimeters on the walls. For it, you can take a roofing material or an ordinary thick plastic film - the main thing is that the material is laid hermetically, with overlaps glued.

• Insulation is poured onto the waterproofing - expanded clay, or extruded high-density polystyrene foam is laid, the thickness of which is selected at the request of the owner of the house and depending on the climatic conditions of the region where the house is built.
• A metal reinforcing mesh is installed on top of the insulation, and then a finishing screed is poured, into which insulation material can also be added. In order for the screed to be even, and there were no differences in floor height in the room, it should be done according to the construction beacon level.

• If desired, additional insulation can be made on such a coating. On the finished screed, you can lay wooden floors, lay linoleum laminate or ceramic tiles. Nothing prevents the organization of the "warm floor" system.

Dry screed floors

There is nothing complicated in laying floors with a dry screed - it is done much faster than a concrete or wooden floor. That is why it has been used more and more in recent years.

The main thing in its laying is a high-quality homogeneous bulk material. For such a floor, perlite, quartz or silica sand, slag or fine-grained expanded clay are used. These materials are not only easy to use, but also perfectly perform the task of soundproofing and thermal insulation. With a good distribution of bulk material over the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, it almost does not shrink, therefore, with a conscientious performance of work, bulk floors will last a long time.

Loose mix leveling

• In order for the floors to keep their shape, and the dry screed does not crumble, special bulkheads are installed from the boards.
• On top of the dry screed, slabs of moisture-resistant GWP, plywood or other sheet materials are laid. The most important thing is to set the first plate perfectly evenly - this is done using a level. The next slabs to be laid will be aligned with the first one. The laid material does not need to be pressed into the dry mix, but must be moved very carefully over the surface. Evenness of laying of sheets during all work is controlled by means of level.
in those areas that are subject to the greatest load, for example, in the aisles.
• On the gypsum fiber the sheets have folds, with the help of which they are interconnected when laying them on a dry screed.
• Sheets are stacked with an offset of half a sheet, by analogy with brickwork - this will increase the stability of the coating.
• Having laid the first layer of slabs on a dry screed, they usually move on to laying another one - it will make the floor more durable and stable. If used for floor gypsum fiber sheets, then a fold is cut off from them on the first layer, so that they tightly adjoin each other and bulk material cannot get between the first and second layers.
• The second layer of sheets is always laid perpendicular to the bottom sheets.
• The stacked top layer of sheets is fixed with bottom c with glue and additionally fastened with self-tapping screws. They are necessarily twisted under load - for this it is enough just to stand on the top sheet, and the weight of the master will serve as the necessary load.
• It is not recommended to join sheets exactly along the line of doorways - it is necessary that the sheet be distributed in this place to both rooms.
sealed with waterproofing material, such as sealant.
• If such floors are arranged in a room where humidity is high, the entire surface of the floor, before laying the decorative coating, is treated with coating waterproofing.

Thus, it is obvious that the floor in a private house on a dry screed is mounted quite easily, if you take the work seriously, do it carefully and take your time. Rush absolutely inappropriate- in terms of work performance, such technology under any circumstances is many times greater than any other.

The foundation is poured, the walls are raised, the roof is mounted and windows with doors are installed. You can also start laying the floors in a wooden house with your own hands. The stage of work is not difficult, but requires a careful approach to details.

Proper laying of the floor cake is the key to its long service life. A small mistake with waterproofing is enough and you will have to re-lay the entire coating in a few years. Lack of ventilation of the subfloor will lead to the same result. And without insulation, you will not only have to walk around the house in warm slippers, but also fork out for additional heating costs.

Draft floor - what is it?

It is important to protect a wooden house from moisture - rotting makes building elements unusable very quickly. Therefore, you should not cut logs into the first crown of the log house, even if they are made of larch and treated with an antiseptic - in any case, they will have to be changed sometime. It is optimal to lay the logs on the foundation and fix them after the walls have been raised.

It is also important to ensure good ventilation of the subfloor by organizing air ducts of sufficient size in the basement or foundation. According to the regulations, in a subfield without forced ventilation, the area of ​​​​the vents should correspond to 1:400 of the subfloor area. Otherwise, regardless of the waterproofing measures, the picture under the house will be unpleasant.

When the flooring is ready, you can start warming. But before laying the insulation, it is worth resolving the issue of protecting it from moisture - after all, wet mineral wool not only does not retain heat, but also contributes to the formation of fungus and mold on adjacent wood.

Waterproofing and vapor barrier - what's the difference?

Waterproofing protects materials from direct ingress of water, and vapor barrier prevents the penetration of wet fumes. Thus, all waterproofing films are laid on the outside, and vapor barriers on the inside. Everything is clear with the walls. But how and what to put on the floor?

Under the hygroscopic insulation on the rough flooring of the first floor, it is better to lay any vapor-tight films, even simple polyethylene ones. They will protect expanded clay or basalt slabs from fumes rising directly from wet ground. At the same time, expensive membranes that remove moisture to the outside will not be useful here - all evaporation still rises. But, given the ventilated subfloor, they are increasingly returning to the time-tested glassine as a “breathable” material.

But on top of the insulation, it is imperative to lay vapor-permeable films that remove possible moisture. To do this, leave a special ventilation gap (at least 5 cm). If the lag boards are not high enough, a counter-rail is nailed along them, over the membrane, on which the finishing floor is laid.

Underfloor heating - why is it necessary?

Even schoolchildren know the principle of convection - warm air rises. According to this logic, an uninsulated floor cannot release heat from the house in any way. In fact, heat loss in a cold field reaches 20%!

All because of the same convection - the air from the underground rises into the house, cooling it, and the energy resource is also spent on heating the air in an unheated basement or underground.

Each type of insulation has its own advantages and disadvantages:

• perlite, vermiculite, shungizite - analogues of expanded clay, do not absorb moisture, but are more expensive;





• Styrofoam and its derivatives are not exposed to moisture, so they do not need waterproofing, are lightweight and inexpensive, but create a "greenhouse effect" in the house and are not recommended for wooden houses.

Bulk heaters are laid on a solid flooring, slabs and mats can be placed on a sparse subfloor, one has only to properly lay the waterproofing and protect the insulation from rodents.

Finishing floor and its types

Depending on the desired interior design, almost any floor can be laid in a wooden house:

Wooden floors are great for living rooms. The main thing is to put a good waterproofing to protect the insulation. But it is better to lay tiles in the kitchen and in the bathroom - places with high humidity.

In addition, there are variations with the installation of warm wooden floors and even a concrete screed along the logs. So the choice depends only on building skills and design preferences.

Do-it-yourself flooring technology in a wooden house

Underfloor heating is comfortable, economical and extremely functional. Especially when you have to dry winter overalls, jackets and mittens of three children after winter games on the street. And so the entire floor area turns into a capacious battery - it's a sin not to use this!

Concrete screed in a wooden house - reliability and functionality

In a wooden house, a warm floor in a concrete screed is difficult to make, but quite possible:

1. The most important thing when pouring a concrete screed is to correctly calculate the load on the logs in advance. After all, the weight of the finished slab, taking into account the finishing floor, will be about 150 kg / sq.m, and this is without taking into account furniture and residents. The step of the beams when pouring concrete is halved, while the logs themselves are lowered to the height of the screed (if the pouring is done only in the kitchen and bathroom, and not in the whole house).



2. A great way to reduce the weight of the floor is not to lay a subfloor. It is enough to fix the vapor barrier film on the bottom with slats so that the insulation plates do not sag.



3. A dense waterproofing is laid over the log with a mandatory ventilation gap of 5 cm. It is very important to glue all the places of its attachment to the beams with butyl rubber tape - so that there are no holes left through which the screed will wet the insulation.



4. Slate or cement particle board is placed on the waterproofing - they have the best adhesion to concrete. A formwork of the same height as the future screed is installed on top of the level. A reinforcing mesh is laid on the substrates from the same slate. The height of the substrate is about 1 cm.
5. A "snail" of underfloor heating pipes is laid out. It can be attached to the grid with conventional cable ties. It is important not to forget to lay a damper tape between the formwork and reinforcement - to compensate for the expansion of the future floor.



6. To protect yourself, make a trial run of underfloor heating systems with high pressure. If no leaks are found, you can start pouring.



7. After pouring, it is better to vibrate the screed and only then level it with a long rule. It takes 1-2 weeks to water the concrete for it to gain strength. After a month, you can start laying any floor covering.

Wooden floors - simple and beautiful

If the floor joists aren't strong enough to support the weight of the concrete slab, don't fret! After all, you can make a dry warm floor with water heating. To do this, you need boards with grooves for pipes, and foil is used as a heat-reflecting layer. The laminate is on top. The whole process is presented in detail in the video:

Each of us dreams of building a spacious house, in solitude with nature. And of course this house should be made of natural and natural materials. The wooden house is perfect for a quiet and relaxing stay. When building a wooden house, the main thing is to pay special attention to the design of the floor.

In order not to disturb the harmony, beauty and naturalness, the floors should also be made of wood. Many people know that houses made of wood have a healing and beneficial effect.

The floor structure must be reliable and have effective protection against heat loss from the house. Today we will consider floor designs in a wooden house.

Floor characteristics

Regardless of what the house is built from, the floor must have the following characteristics:

It should also be noted that the load on the floor, first or basement floor should be calculated from an average value of 2100 Newtons per 1 square meter.

Floor types

For wooden houses, the two most common types of floors are used, these are concrete and wood. Now we will analyze the pros and cons of each.

• Concrete floor. The advantages include the speed of the process, and especially in the presence of a concrete mixer. An insignificant price, which is the cost of sand and cement.

The ability to do the work with your own hands, without professional skills. With all these pluses, we get a finished flat surface in a month, after the final drying of the concrete screed.

The disadvantages include a large mass of the floor, which puts pressure on the foundation. Not suitable for every type of foundation; it requires careful calculation of the load on the foundation and soil.

And secondly, since we have a house made of wood, the walls vibrate (narrowing - expanding), this has a bad effect on the concrete surface, stress zones, chips, cracks appear.

• Wooden floor. The advantages include the fact that wood is an environmentally friendly material. The floors made of wood in a wooden house are harmony, naturalness and sophistication.

When performing work, no special devices are required. There are a few more disadvantages than concrete floors. The main disadvantage is the cost (high).

The second drawback is the complexity of the installation technology, assistants will be required. It may be necessary to involve specialists, and this is an additional cost. When laying a finished floor, it is difficult to achieve a perfectly flat surface. Strict adherence to the technology of the floor installation process.

The device of a wooden floor in a wooden house

We have described the pros and cons of the two types of floors. With a concrete floor, everything is clear. Moreover, a wooden house should have a wooden floor.

Unedged board or sheets of plywood, chipboard, are usually used to equip the subfloor. And if used for arranging a finishing floor, then a decorative floor covering is placed on top of it.

Glued laminated timber or seam board is used as a finishing floor. After installation, paint or varnish.

Floor structures

The flooring is divided into two types.

The floor structure looks like this:

• Draft floor.
• Waterproofing.
• Insulation.
• Air bag.
• Clean floor.
• Decorative flooring.

Foundation preparation

Choosing a foundation is always a difficult and controversial choice. The pricing policy is different. Since a wooden house belongs to light buildings up to 14-17 tons, then the foundation should be selected accordingly.

Some people put houses directly on the ground or add rubble with a layer of 10-20 cm. This is done in places where there is no groundwater, and the earth does not creep.

2 layers of waterproofing are laid out on the ground (roofing material, polyethylene film), then logs are laid. This type of foundation is suitable for small seasonal houses with a single floor.

The most common is of course the foundation of concrete. It can be of a tape type, a cheaper method, or filled in one piece (plate), a more expensive method.

The concrete foundation is usually reinforced with a reinforcing belt. This is a long-term and reliable foundation, both for a wooden house and a brick one.

The next option is the support columns. The site on which the house is going to stand is freed from the soil to a depth of about 50 cm. The pillow is formed due to a layer of sand and gravel.

Each layer should be approximately 20-30 cm. We ram everything carefully. Then we lay out columns of brick or asbestos pipes filled with concrete.

The pillars are placed around the perimeter and inside the house at intervals of 90-100 cm. Keeping one level. We lay waterproofing on the poles, then 3 cm board around the entire perimeter - this is the lining. Bars are placed on it.

And recently, pile foundations have become popular. Everyone just buys ready-made piles of a given diameter, they are screwed into the ground one level.

After that, a frame is built for the walls and floor. This type of foundation is ideal for places where groundwater or moving soil is close, as piles can be buried to different depths and make the foundation strong and reliable.

Single layer floor installation

The choice of foundation is yours. Supports, piles, soil or a concrete surface on which I lay thick beams must be covered with a layer of waterproofing material.

It is advisable to buy bars from coniferous trees. As mentioned above, we process all wooden elements with special compounds.

Logs are usually laid on top of the bars at the locations of the supports, the main thing is to keep one level.

The distance between the lags should be chosen 60-80 cm if you have a floor board 4 cm thick or more. And if the thickness of the board is 3 cm, then the distance is best to choose 50-60 cm.

On the logs set at one level, we lay a wooden floor. We put the first board from the wall at a distance of 10-15 mm. This gap must be left for natural ventilation.

Subsequently, this hole will be closed with a plinth. To create decorative beauty, floor boards are best laid parallel to the rays of light from the window. We use nails to fasten the boards.

Purchase nails, taking into account the fact that their length should be twice as long as the thickness of the boards. Drive nails at an angle of 30-45 degrees. Don't forget to wear your hats.

Then, when all the boards are fixed, we close up all the holes from the caps with wood putty. After the putty dries, you can start painting and varnishing. Installation of skirting boards is done around the entire perimeter.

On two opposite walls, a permanent plinth is nailed, and on the other two opposite walls, which have gaps left, a temporary plinth is nailed with a gap of 10 mm from the wall. In 2-3 weeks, due to natural convection, the floor will dry out completely, and temporary skirting boards can be replaced with permanent ones.

As mentioned above, this type of floor is used in unheated, small houses. And in winter, the ground under the house freezes and the pillars are deformed, which directly affects the functionality of the floor.

To remove this effect as much as possible, the underground space is covered with slag, leaving 4-6 cm to the floor, for an air cushion.

Double floor device

Such a floor has the structure of a multi-layer cake. The design of the bars and the log remains as described above. Only in the lower part of the log we fill the bars along the entire length and on both sides.

These bars are called cranial. A draft floor is attached on top of these bars. The floor is usually made of unedged boards 2-4 cm thick. All wooden elements are necessarily processed with special means. Boards should be fastened with minimal gaps.

After the subfloor is fully assembled, vapor barrier and waterproofing materials are laid on it. Often this is a polyethylene film with a thickness of 200 microns.

But other materials can be used, such as parchment paper, roofing material and modern membrane films. The material is laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm and the seams are glued with construction tape.

Then a heater is placed on top of the waterproofing layer.. In the past, mixtures were actively used: clay + sawdust or clay + straw. Expanded clay has proven itself well, it is not eaten by rodents, it does not lose its shape and volume.

But in the age of high technology, the market offers a large selection of materials for insulation. Ecowool, foam plastic, isolon, mineral wool, polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam. This is not the whole list, but only those that are popular.

Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. The main difference is in price and features. The choice of insulation is up to you. After you have bought a heater, lay it between the lags.

We lay a layer of waterproofing on top of the insulation, leaving 3-5 cm to the bottom edge of the finished floor, as a natural ventilation of the subfloor.

If you provide for the presence of a "warm floor" system, then pipes or wires should be laid on top of the insulation. They should not be covered with a layer of waterproofing material.

On top of this "pie" we lay the finishing floor. Tongue board - ideal for arranging a finished floor. The principle of assembling boards is similar to that of a laminate, each subsequent board is inserted into the groove of the previous one, and fastening takes place with nails at an angle.

If in the first method we talked about the ventilation gap, which is located along the walls, then here we will talk about the ventilation gap, which is located in two opposite corners of the room.

These gaps can be in the form of a square, a circle about 5 cm in size. After the floor is covered with all the boards, the ventilation gaps are decorated with gratings.

The gratings must be taken out by 5 mm. above floor level so that liquid does not enter the insulation. Sheet piling, sanded and varnished. On top of such a floor, the finish coating can not be used. But if you wish, you can lay carpet, linoleum, laminate and others.

Remember that ventilation holes should also be left in the basement. They close only in winter.

Conclusion

We examined all the nuances of the floor construction device in a wooden house. I hope our article will help you find the right solution and approach to arranging the floor.

Do not forget that wood is a natural material that requires care and processing with special means.

The flooring process requires care, accuracy and compliance with the instructions. Installation work can be done by hand.